58: Sam Avezou, French Olympian + Short King
Sam is a French boulder and lead climber who has medals from several world cups and competed alongside his sister, Zelia at the Paris Olympics! In this episode, we’ll learn more about what it’s like growing up in a climbing family, tips for climbing as a short king, why he struggled in the 2025 season, and how he self-coaches.
Timestamps
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:24 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
2:34 - His mother still competing at 42 years old
7:45 - Getting into climbing and competing
9:31 - AUDIENCE Q: Did growing up in a climbing family add pressure?
12:52 - Struggling between youth and senior circuits
16:51 - Rough 2025 season
22:53 - 2028 Olympics strategy
26:37 - Being a short king
31:34 - AUDIENCE Q: Tips for short kings?
35:41 - Training with the French team
37:51 - AUDIENCE Q: how do you self coach?
41:21 - Training only with climbing
45:21 - Gyms worth visiting in Paris
47:05 - Secrets to French slab
51:37 - AUDIENCE Q: What are you thinking about when climbing?
56:06 - Mental game
58:41 - 2026 goals
1:01:22 - AUDIENCE Q: Playing guitar?
1:04:58 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you make a living climbing?
1:08:40 - AUDIENCE Q: How to gain finger strength?
1:12:23 - AUDIENCE Q: Recovery routine?
1:15:56 - Where to find Sam
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WEBVTT
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I was like world champion in youth like five
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times the fifth time and I was like okay well
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what's the next step? I have passion for competition
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in lead and I have a passion for competition
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in bowling as well. I'm not going to leave half
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of what I like for a potential medal in the Olympics.
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You won't see any world cup level bowler in a
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gym in Paris unless sometimes you have some slabs
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because the slabs can be really hard. the hardest
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physical boulders in the gym there makes no sense
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for a world cup climber you see a lot of guys
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they're showing off they're doing like some hangs
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on 10 millimeters but this if we post a video
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about this we do it like let's say once or twice
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a year it's just so painful you don't want to
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do it Welcome to another episode of the That's
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Not Real Climbing podcast. I'm your host, Jinni,
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and I'm excited to introduce my guest for today,
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Sam Avezou. Sam is a French boulder and leap
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climber who has medals from several World Cups
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and competed alongside his sister, Zelia, at
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the Paris Olympics. In this episode, we'll learn
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more about what it's like growing up in a climbing
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family. tips for climbing as a short king, why
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he struggled in the 2025 season, and how he self
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-coaches. I hope you enjoy this episode with
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Sam. Please pardon this brief intermission, but
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Now, back to the show. Okay, well, how are you
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doing today? Today's your rest day, right? Yeah,
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I'm doing fine, yeah. Sundays are usually for
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rest in my schedule. Is that your only rest day?
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Nah, I usually do like two rest days a week.
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Okay, yeah, that's a pretty standard schedule.
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Yeah. So getting right into it, I know a lot
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of people know that you come from a big family
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of climbers. What was that like? Well, it's quite
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a large question. I don't know where to start.
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I don't know too much about the background of
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your parents. Is it only your mom who competed?
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Yeah. My mom was a climbing athlete. She stopped
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the competitions in 20... 12 or 2013 she was
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already yeah it's not that old but she was already
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like 42 she was still competing that's crazy
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yeah uh but she she started competing a while
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ago like maybe i i don't know i wasn't born so
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like a real while ago and then she um took a
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break from competing like she had three kids
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my brother me and my sister and then right like
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a year later she started competing again so yeah
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she didn't have that much of a break but she
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started climbing quite late uh she wasn't into
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really climbing and probably wasn't that famous
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at the moment the climbing sport she used to
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do gymnastics and like maybe around 20 or between
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20 and 25 she started climbing and then she went
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straight to yeah geez to competition yeah wow
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yeah that's Crazy story. I'll have to talk to
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her about that because that's a lot to go through.
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And now she's the coach for the French lead team.
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She's the coach. She's going on the comps. Oh,
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wow. Okay. Yeah, that'll be definitely really
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interesting to hear about. And then does your
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dad also climb? My dad is a high school teacher.
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He's a math teacher. Okay. And so... I mean,
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since she was also climbing at the time, I guess
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at that time you were also already climbing.
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How old were you until you surpassed her in climbing
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ability? Actually, I don't know, because I started
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climbing maybe when I was like six years old,
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which is like probably 2007. And she was still
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competing. but i mean i was climbing just a little
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bit and when she stopped competing i was still
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like at the kids like uh lessons so and then
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she stopped climbing at all like after that yeah
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like for 10 years she just didn't climb so i
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don't know at one point in between i went to
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like and and now i'm a bit stronger than her
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because she's been climbing for very long so
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but she's starting to do a bit more lately try
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to get back to doing a bit more sports but yeah
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maybe she climbs like once a week or yeah it's
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interesting that she completely stopped it's
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hard for me to imagine that because i know most
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people you know when sport is their whole life
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they can't really just stop fully yeah well she
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started also like working because like as long
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as she was athletes it wasn't really professional
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yet so she really it was not like she was not
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professional uh for her like whole career and
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then when she stopped she well she was still
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working a little bit like in in uh sometimes
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in the week she was giving like gymnastics lessons
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like i don't remember it's been a long time but
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like a few times a week and then when she stopped
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she she went to almost straight to coaching and
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to the french working with the french team and
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you do her like your love time so she just yeah
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stopped climbing quite a sacrifice for the coaching
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yeah i think she was also fine not to climb she
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was she made it for quite long so yeah also almost
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a relief i think huh interesting okay yeah i
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feel i mean i still don't hear that very often
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i think i talk to climbers and they're like This
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is something I want to do for the rest of my
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life forever. Maybe not necessarily always improving,
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but at least always pulling on a bit and seeing.
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But OK, that's interesting to know. Yeah, maybe
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maybe one day I'll try to interview her in the
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future. You can try it. It's going to have to
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be in French, though. OK, I don't really speak
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French. I have a question later that talks about
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that a little bit. um she also you said she coached
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gymnastics did you ever have an interest in gymnastics
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yeah um well very small like when i um when i
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was really like baby she used to go like gymnastics
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lessons and like uh we were like three kids and
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she would like bring us to the gymnastics because
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like i mean she couldn't just leave us at home
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so we're here just chilling in the gymnastics
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Obviously, a bit too young to go. But then I
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took, like, maybe for the baby lessons with her
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at the start. And then I quit. But my sister
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did quite some. Yeah, she, like, I don't remember.
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Maybe five, six, maybe even seven years gymnastics.
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Yeah. In a club. And you just didn't like it
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much? Yeah, I liked it. It was fun. But when
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I was six years old, I went to climbing. And
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I just liked it a bit more. So, yeah. Okay. I
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went full. Yeah, what was your introduction to
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climbing like? Well, a bit the same. As a kid,
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my mom used to take care of us. She was just
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staying home and taking care of us. And when
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she was going to training, then she had to sometimes
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just take us. So I guess that's how I started
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climbing. And then slowly, when I got to the
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age where you can take lessons at the club, like
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in Messy, I was born around here and there was
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already this huge lead wall that's been here
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for a while. And I went just to the club and
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got the first lessons. Did you always know that
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you wanted to do competition stuff or outdoor
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stuff? Yeah, I think I always was into competition.
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When I grew up, like just watching the comps
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because my mom was competing. So I was watching.
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It was like for those who remember the live streamings
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in like before 2010, before 2012. It was like,
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I have no idea. You don't want to watch this.
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But we were still watching and checking on. There
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was sometimes no live streamings. It was like
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you had to check on the IFSC app. and there was
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like some little squares oh really it's like
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for the boulders she topped and we're like watching
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it refreshing the page until oh so you couldn't
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even see what she was climbing no no no oh wow
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okay and um yeah so yeah i was like i mean yeah
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competition was always the thing i i grew up
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watching and seeing so yeah I was always into
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this. One of the audience questions that came
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in, I think people are always wondering this
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about being in a climbing family, but did growing
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up in that kind of environment add pressure to
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your climbing, you felt like? No, I don't think
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so. I think also like my family, my parents are
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not like really... They don't give much pressure
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about it. They don't really mind. Even my dad
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wasn't that much into me competing. He always
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pushed me into going more to school, which I
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didn't do anyways. But he wasn't pushing me into
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competition. My mom wasn't also pushing me. They
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just let me do. And I went with my sister and
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my brother. We just went to competition because
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it was fun. But I think if like my parents wouldn't
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care if I did something else, they wouldn't care
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at all. Yeah, that's good to hear. You never
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felt like there was a time where maybe you didn't
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want to climb or compete anymore and felt like
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you had to keep going? Well, there was like some
00:10:38.419 --> 00:10:43.919
time I like for a year, I didn't want to compete
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that much anymore. But like it was before. The
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Tokyo Olympics, I think it was like probably
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2019. I was just out of the youth team and I
00:10:58.389 --> 00:11:03.490
was not really strong enough to be in the senior
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team. But I was like, the French team gathered
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a few people who were good at combined. I was
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doing combined speed, bouldering, and lead in
00:11:15.889 --> 00:11:19.049
the youth. And we were not many climbers in France
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to do this. So they were checking who can go
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potentially to Tokyo. And I was selecting in
00:11:26.870 --> 00:11:32.889
this team to hope for Tokyo. But I mean, I was...
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like going to world cups i didn't really want
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to go i was doing lead speed and ballering even
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though i didn't want to do any of those and like
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i went to many comps i just didn't want to go
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so well obviously didn't go really good and uh
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i don't yeah and then i i it's lasted like for
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a few months and never really long i always wanted
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i i knew i would compete later i just didn't
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want to do it at the moment so I always wanted
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to compete. There was no time. I thought, yeah,
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I'm going to quit. Was it because you didn't
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want to speed climb? No. Actually, maybe a little.
00:12:17.409 --> 00:12:20.970
But I mean, the speed climbing was also kind
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of fun at that time. I was just not really good
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compared to the senior. I was not good at speed.
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I was fine in lead. In bowling, there was no
00:12:33.049 --> 00:12:35.370
chance I was going to make it to Semi's in the
00:12:35.370 --> 00:12:38.370
World Cup. So I was like, what do you want me
00:12:38.370 --> 00:12:42.009
to do? I mean, it just makes no sense. I can
00:12:42.009 --> 00:12:44.970
try, but yeah. So it was just kind of like the
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lack of results. Yeah, and the lack of possibility
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of making good. Yeah. So you kind of struggled
00:12:54.269 --> 00:12:56.269
with the transition between youth and senior.
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Yeah, but I mean, I was still in the youth team
00:12:59.750 --> 00:13:03.629
at this moment. Like, it got better as soon as
00:13:03.629 --> 00:13:07.269
I left. The first year I went into senior was
00:13:07.269 --> 00:13:11.289
fine again. Like, I think, like, as a youth,
00:13:11.350 --> 00:13:14.230
I had also, like, very, like, very, very good
00:13:14.230 --> 00:13:18.269
results. And I was, like, just before this moment,
00:13:18.370 --> 00:13:20.909
like, in 2018, I was, like, world champion. I
00:13:20.909 --> 00:13:22.750
was, like, world champion in youth, like, five
00:13:22.750 --> 00:13:25.269
times. And it was, like, the fifth time. And
00:13:25.269 --> 00:13:28.269
I was, like, okay, well, what's the next step?
00:13:28.470 --> 00:13:32.399
I was not really sure. So yeah, but then it was
00:13:32.399 --> 00:13:35.259
like, it was okay. Yeah, I kind of wonder what
00:13:35.259 --> 00:13:37.740
the youth to senior transition is like in the
00:13:37.740 --> 00:13:41.299
men's side. I guess, how old were you when you
00:13:41.299 --> 00:13:44.440
were making the transition? I went to my first
00:13:44.440 --> 00:13:52.259
World Cup. I was 16, I think. Yeah. It was like,
00:13:52.279 --> 00:13:56.220
well, it depends who, like some of the Japanese
00:13:56.220 --> 00:13:58.600
athletes don't really have a problem with this.
00:13:58.679 --> 00:14:01.519
Well, it's more about like... uh physical condition
00:14:01.519 --> 00:14:06.279
uh the rest like some youth at least are really
00:14:06.279 --> 00:14:09.259
really good and talented climbers it's just usually
00:14:09.259 --> 00:14:16.419
lack of yeah of uh strength uh i mean yeah for
00:14:16.419 --> 00:14:18.980
me it was like mostly this i was just not strong
00:14:18.980 --> 00:14:21.860
enough the lead was fine and the leader was already
00:14:21.860 --> 00:14:25.740
like quite quite good but obviously not whole
00:14:25.740 --> 00:14:28.620
cup final but pretty okay but for bouldering
00:14:28.620 --> 00:14:31.460
is be too hard if you're not strong enough yeah
00:14:31.460 --> 00:14:35.159
so in the men's um between youth and senior it's
00:14:35.159 --> 00:14:37.500
a big difference in terms yeah there's like physical
00:14:37.500 --> 00:14:40.779
huge difference well there was at the time as
00:14:40.779 --> 00:14:43.159
well i was in youth i don't know about now also
00:14:43.159 --> 00:14:46.299
i think the level in the youth teams are way
00:14:46.299 --> 00:14:51.120
way uh is way higher now than it used to be yeah
00:14:51.120 --> 00:14:56.860
uh i can see in the french team Um, when I was
00:14:56.860 --> 00:14:58.559
in the youth team, it was, it's not that long
00:14:58.559 --> 00:15:02.200
ago, but, uh, most people will just like, you
00:15:02.200 --> 00:15:05.240
know, going to school. Normally you went to school
00:15:05.240 --> 00:15:07.820
like all day. Then you went to climb at the end
00:15:07.820 --> 00:15:11.919
of the day, just for a few hours. And now I can
00:15:11.919 --> 00:15:15.759
see a lot more people like homeschooled or, uh,
00:15:15.919 --> 00:15:19.159
having like health. They can have this thing
00:15:19.159 --> 00:15:20.840
where you go to school half of the day and then
00:15:20.840 --> 00:15:23.700
you have the rest of the day to, to practice.
00:15:23.919 --> 00:15:27.179
Yeah. So I think it's a bit more professional,
00:15:27.360 --> 00:15:30.279
yeah. Yeah, that would help a lot. Yeah. Yeah,
00:15:30.299 --> 00:15:33.379
I guess I just wonder because I know like men
00:15:33.379 --> 00:15:36.279
go through puberty like a bit later. So then
00:15:36.279 --> 00:15:38.419
I think that's like when you get your huge like
00:15:38.419 --> 00:15:41.259
strength gains. And so I wonder if that kind
00:15:41.259 --> 00:15:44.860
of plays into like making the transition kind
00:15:44.860 --> 00:15:50.799
of weird. I don't know. I also can see like some,
00:15:51.000 --> 00:15:54.509
well, it's... i i would agree but i can see so
00:15:54.509 --> 00:15:56.850
many japanese climbers who are like obviously
00:15:56.850 --> 00:16:04.590
not not fully grown yet yeah and still so i think
00:16:04.590 --> 00:16:08.929
even without like being fully grown you can still
00:16:08.929 --> 00:16:11.070
be really really strong also you're a bit lighter
00:16:11.070 --> 00:16:16.590
so for lead it's not necessarily uh like huge
00:16:16.590 --> 00:16:19.149
chance you can some some climbers also like are
00:16:19.149 --> 00:16:21.029
really strong when they're a bit younger because
00:16:21.029 --> 00:16:25.610
you're really lean and super um lights and then
00:16:25.610 --> 00:16:28.990
they get a bit weaker as they grow a bit muscle
00:16:28.990 --> 00:16:33.610
and and get a bit more like heavy and some other
00:16:33.610 --> 00:16:38.190
just get really stronger so i i don't know i
00:16:38.190 --> 00:16:40.570
don't think there's any rule to that but yeah
00:16:40.570 --> 00:16:44.450
some some make it better some make it a bit less
00:16:44.450 --> 00:16:47.049
good just the mystery of the japanese climber
00:16:47.049 --> 00:16:50.169
yeah yeah that's the huge mystery yeah so as
00:16:50.169 --> 00:16:53.250
far as your 2025 season um how did you feel like
00:16:53.250 --> 00:16:58.769
that went uh 20 25 season uh was i mean was not
00:16:58.769 --> 00:17:03.250
my best season but i went to many comms also
00:17:03.250 --> 00:17:06.430
the first season after olympics which is i think
00:17:06.430 --> 00:17:09.099
it's a bit hard like i didn't really talk about
00:17:09.099 --> 00:17:11.779
it with many olympic athletes but i think it's
00:17:11.779 --> 00:17:14.339
a bit hard for everybody like you just made a
00:17:14.339 --> 00:17:19.839
really big um a lot of trainings a lot of like
00:17:19.839 --> 00:17:24.059
mental uh battle for uh qualifications also when
00:17:24.059 --> 00:17:26.440
you're here feels like an achievement and then
00:17:26.440 --> 00:17:29.759
it's over and you're like yeah all right it's
00:17:29.759 --> 00:17:33.380
all all done and so maybe a bit like you don't
00:17:33.380 --> 00:17:36.740
know what to do anymore but uh yeah i still wanted
00:17:36.740 --> 00:17:40.329
to like continue just just compete so let's see
00:17:40.329 --> 00:17:44.190
because also in the olympic here we have like
00:17:44.190 --> 00:17:47.509
access to many many resources for training which
00:17:47.509 --> 00:17:50.549
is really good you know so the progress you make
00:17:50.549 --> 00:17:53.569
in these times is huge i was like a bit also
00:17:53.569 --> 00:17:56.349
happy with my progress so my life was way better
00:17:56.349 --> 00:17:59.450
in bowling and lead so i was also thinking maybe
00:17:59.450 --> 00:18:02.609
let's continue like this and and see and get
00:18:02.609 --> 00:18:07.960
the gains uh going uh and uh i went to japan
00:18:07.960 --> 00:18:11.420
for a training trip in january i gotta be injured
00:18:11.420 --> 00:18:13.960
in my finger they should knowing me like for
00:18:13.960 --> 00:18:17.880
uh quite a while in the season and uh i i started
00:18:17.880 --> 00:18:22.039
the season quite okay i went to i'm in finals
00:18:22.039 --> 00:18:24.759
once i think in china in bullring in the world
00:18:24.759 --> 00:18:28.220
cup which is for me like it's a good result uh
00:18:28.220 --> 00:18:32.380
i don't make finals that often involving like
00:18:32.380 --> 00:18:37.230
happen maybe three times i think yeah max so
00:18:37.230 --> 00:18:41.470
and then but then it went like a bit a bit wrong
00:18:41.470 --> 00:18:44.789
i just had like uh i wasn't making it anymore
00:18:44.789 --> 00:18:48.549
at semifinals for like the three next world cups
00:18:48.549 --> 00:18:52.450
which was like i mean i'm not going to finals
00:18:52.450 --> 00:18:55.549
that much but semifinals usually is yeah i make
00:18:55.549 --> 00:18:59.190
it and then i i just wasn't into semis anymore
00:18:59.190 --> 00:19:04.150
like oh it was a bit annoying and uh but then
00:19:04.150 --> 00:19:07.190
i was also training lead so lead was feeling
00:19:07.190 --> 00:19:11.349
really strong but also getting results oh that's
00:19:11.349 --> 00:19:15.910
not great and uh yeah i mean sometimes yeah it's
00:19:15.910 --> 00:19:17.630
like that you feel you're really good on the
00:19:17.630 --> 00:19:20.329
wall if you get training but need some time to
00:19:20.329 --> 00:19:22.190
adapt like when you train something really hard
00:19:22.190 --> 00:19:24.130
usually it doesn't show up right away you have
00:19:24.130 --> 00:19:28.269
to right do some comps so it shows and then i
00:19:28.269 --> 00:19:31.490
did like few comps wasn't going great and until
00:19:32.170 --> 00:19:36.490
World Championship was quite a good end of the
00:19:36.490 --> 00:19:40.970
year. I made finals in Elite, which is pretty
00:19:40.970 --> 00:19:44.230
good. Bowling, I think I ended up in 12th place,
00:19:44.390 --> 00:19:49.109
which is not great, but it's fine. It's semifinals
00:19:49.109 --> 00:19:52.029
at least. Yeah, for sure. Better than the start
00:19:52.029 --> 00:19:55.170
of the season. Yeah, exactly. So yeah, definitely
00:19:55.170 --> 00:19:59.670
not my best season, but I made a huge progress,
00:19:59.750 --> 00:20:04.630
especially in Elite. And so I'm really happy
00:20:04.630 --> 00:20:06.630
about the training. The results are not good,
00:20:06.670 --> 00:20:09.970
but training was really good. Yeah, that's good.
00:20:10.150 --> 00:20:12.009
I definitely I don't think you're like the only
00:20:12.009 --> 00:20:15.369
athlete who did the Olympics who struggled with
00:20:15.369 --> 00:20:18.750
getting like results afterwards. Do you think
00:20:18.750 --> 00:20:21.549
the main reasoning behind that is like, do you
00:20:21.549 --> 00:20:24.170
feel like you trained less after the Olympics
00:20:24.170 --> 00:20:25.950
because you felt like you needed a break? Or
00:20:25.950 --> 00:20:29.710
was it just like the mental load of everything
00:20:29.710 --> 00:20:34.079
from the previous year? i i am not so sure uh
00:20:34.079 --> 00:20:38.319
i i mean after the olympics for sure i didn't
00:20:38.319 --> 00:20:42.019
want to like i i wanted to rest for a bit because
00:20:42.019 --> 00:20:47.480
yeah just uh it's quite heavy too yeah it's uh
00:20:47.480 --> 00:20:50.819
heavy pressure and it's the best thing you can
00:20:50.819 --> 00:20:53.420
ever do but at the same time it's yeah really
00:20:53.420 --> 00:20:57.480
heavy to carry so once it's it was over i was
00:20:57.480 --> 00:21:01.940
like that's great i'm now like professional athlete
00:21:01.940 --> 00:21:05.779
should be fine i can also just take also i'm
00:21:05.779 --> 00:21:09.799
allowed to take some holidays yeah so yeah i
00:21:09.799 --> 00:21:13.299
just chilled for a while and then the new season
00:21:13.299 --> 00:21:16.180
like the calendar dropped and i was like okay
00:21:16.180 --> 00:21:18.339
maybe it's time to get back to it there was no
00:21:18.339 --> 00:21:21.359
like i don't want to compete anymore i was still
00:21:21.359 --> 00:21:23.759
excited to compete just just took a few like
00:21:23.759 --> 00:21:27.240
maybe month or two without properly training
00:21:27.240 --> 00:21:30.259
i was still climbing a bit but just not not training
00:21:30.259 --> 00:21:36.299
uh really and uh yeah no i i think you just have
00:21:36.299 --> 00:21:40.000
like it's a bit harder to because the objective
00:21:40.000 --> 00:21:42.640
makes you really motivated like when you have
00:21:42.640 --> 00:21:45.519
olympics in a year or two you're like okay it's
00:21:45.519 --> 00:21:49.720
really easy to to go like fully on your project
00:21:49.720 --> 00:21:52.720
because also everybody around you is like trying
00:21:52.720 --> 00:21:56.420
to pursue and it helps uh once it's over like
00:21:56.420 --> 00:21:59.240
people are happy obviously but they just kind
00:21:59.240 --> 00:22:02.779
of spread so you're not a bit like you have a
00:22:02.779 --> 00:22:05.980
bit people are not that excited around you about
00:22:05.980 --> 00:22:10.440
it so you're also a bit less excited about it
00:22:10.440 --> 00:22:15.140
and uh well for me at least i enjoy when it's
00:22:15.140 --> 00:22:17.980
like a huge thing and everybody's like yeah all
00:22:17.980 --> 00:22:21.259
my family were cheering for me i see me the federation
00:22:21.259 --> 00:22:23.900
also helps they're doing like all they can to
00:22:23.900 --> 00:22:26.680
make you perform at your best they're trying
00:22:27.319 --> 00:22:29.279
always asking you what do you need, what do you
00:22:29.279 --> 00:22:32.019
need, and really making it really professional,
00:22:32.180 --> 00:22:36.900
which is nice. And after Olympics, you have a
00:22:36.900 --> 00:22:39.640
bit less of this. I can imagine it's kind of
00:22:39.640 --> 00:22:42.980
like it's loud and there's a lot of support and
00:22:42.980 --> 00:22:45.079
then suddenly right after it's like dead quiet.
00:22:45.460 --> 00:22:48.220
Yeah, exactly. Which is actually really good
00:22:48.220 --> 00:22:50.240
because if it was continuing non -stop, it would
00:22:50.240 --> 00:22:53.569
be like too tiring. It's also nice to have a
00:22:53.569 --> 00:22:56.430
chill moment. Well, I guess thinking forward
00:22:56.430 --> 00:22:59.609
for the upcoming Olympics, we've heard a bit
00:22:59.609 --> 00:23:02.089
about some athletes having to strategize between
00:23:02.089 --> 00:23:06.690
choosing boulder or lead. I know Toby said that
00:23:06.690 --> 00:23:08.930
he's going to be trying to do both. What's your
00:23:08.930 --> 00:23:12.009
strategy and thought process going into it? Yeah,
00:23:12.009 --> 00:23:20.069
well, my strategy is there's no real proper strategy.
00:23:20.089 --> 00:23:22.910
It's just I like... lead and i like bouldering
00:23:22.910 --> 00:23:28.109
i like both so uh there is no way i'm gonna quit
00:23:28.109 --> 00:23:32.750
any of those really like it's uh like i have
00:23:32.750 --> 00:23:35.309
passion for competition in lead and i have a
00:23:35.309 --> 00:23:37.670
passion for competition in bouldering as well
00:23:37.670 --> 00:23:40.990
i'm not gonna believe half of what i've what
00:23:40.990 --> 00:23:45.130
i like for a potential medal in the olympics
00:23:45.130 --> 00:23:49.289
which is probably not gonna make me happier than
00:23:49.289 --> 00:23:54.079
just doing what i like every day so i'm gonna
00:23:54.079 --> 00:23:59.579
proceed on yeah both disciplines and well it's
00:23:59.579 --> 00:24:05.099
obviously hard to get qualified for both uh it's
00:24:05.099 --> 00:24:09.559
not gonna be easy even like um the french team
00:24:09.559 --> 00:24:12.440
is hard to get qualified i i'm i'm not gonna
00:24:12.440 --> 00:24:15.400
go to the first at least the first uh i woke
00:24:15.400 --> 00:24:18.039
up in bouldering this season because i didn't
00:24:18.039 --> 00:24:22.130
make it To the team. Yeah, it's really hard already
00:24:22.130 --> 00:24:26.049
to qualify for the team. And also, what's hard
00:24:26.049 --> 00:24:31.529
is that when you say, yeah, I want to do both
00:24:31.529 --> 00:24:35.470
disciplines, you have also the coaches. Everybody's
00:24:35.470 --> 00:24:37.789
trying to push you into choosing one discipline
00:24:37.789 --> 00:24:43.809
because their objective is Olympic medals. Right.
00:24:43.970 --> 00:24:46.769
And so they're trying to push everybody into
00:24:46.769 --> 00:24:51.549
choosing one. uh which is i mean it's like their
00:24:51.549 --> 00:24:54.569
job i mean it's fair but i think it's also not
00:24:54.569 --> 00:25:01.190
really good sometimes to uh to to take away something
00:25:01.190 --> 00:25:05.569
from somebody who's passionate just yeah i would
00:25:05.569 --> 00:25:07.890
i would personally let people do what they want
00:25:07.890 --> 00:25:13.089
i guess would you prefer to do that even if the
00:25:13.089 --> 00:25:15.390
field kind of like changed in a few years and
00:25:15.390 --> 00:25:18.170
it becomes a lot more people specialize so it
00:25:18.170 --> 00:25:21.109
becomes even harder to qualify for one or the
00:25:21.109 --> 00:25:23.809
other and then you don't qualify for either well
00:25:23.809 --> 00:25:30.170
there's like i will try to do both if uh i don't
00:25:30.170 --> 00:25:33.410
make it to the team in one i'm not gonna i'm
00:25:33.410 --> 00:25:36.130
gonna obviously like if i don't make it there's
00:25:36.130 --> 00:25:38.089
no way i'm gonna qualify for one then i'm gonna
00:25:38.089 --> 00:25:42.099
obviously push more into the other um discipline
00:25:42.099 --> 00:25:47.039
because it makes no sense to try to like run
00:25:47.039 --> 00:25:51.119
after even though it's over so but i'm not gonna
00:25:51.119 --> 00:25:54.460
quit any uh i'm not gonna quit any discipline
00:25:54.460 --> 00:25:57.480
and i mean for the training the field can evolve
00:25:57.480 --> 00:26:00.200
and people can get a bit stronger in its discipline
00:26:00.200 --> 00:26:04.819
but i've always trained bouldering in leeds I'm
00:26:04.819 --> 00:26:07.220
not even sure it would be good for me to switch
00:26:07.220 --> 00:26:09.259
completely. And also, like, for the lead training,
00:26:09.460 --> 00:26:11.420
most people actually train mostly bouldering.
00:26:12.240 --> 00:26:14.799
The lead climbers, they don't do lead, like,
00:26:14.799 --> 00:26:17.440
every day. You don't practice endurance every
00:26:17.440 --> 00:26:20.900
day. Maybe, I don't know about everybody's schedule,
00:26:21.000 --> 00:26:24.220
but I do, like, maximum twice a week the lead
00:26:24.220 --> 00:26:27.559
training. Oh, okay. And I average more than this.
00:26:27.700 --> 00:26:31.680
And usually, I actually also do, like, once a
00:26:31.680 --> 00:26:35.180
week. when I just like in the regular training.
00:26:35.299 --> 00:26:39.019
So for me, I train it still mostly bullring.
00:26:39.259 --> 00:26:42.819
Okay, that's good to know. Do you feel like lead
00:26:42.819 --> 00:26:44.819
climbing just comes to you more naturally or
00:26:44.819 --> 00:26:46.859
like what are your strengths and weaknesses?
00:26:47.640 --> 00:26:51.160
Yeah, I think lead is, I'm a bit more like suited
00:26:51.160 --> 00:26:55.680
for leads. Like there are a few reasons. This
00:26:55.680 --> 00:27:01.299
first, I think my body type is really good for
00:27:01.299 --> 00:27:08.190
lead. I'm quite light, which is really good for
00:27:08.190 --> 00:27:10.750
lead. And I have really good finger strength,
00:27:10.950 --> 00:27:16.329
which is also really good for lead. And being
00:27:16.329 --> 00:27:21.430
small in lead is usually not that much of a problem.
00:27:21.450 --> 00:27:23.430
It's a bit less of a problem than in bouldering.
00:27:23.529 --> 00:27:26.369
When bouldering, sometimes it's not really good
00:27:26.369 --> 00:27:29.990
to have short arms and being small. It can happen
00:27:29.990 --> 00:27:33.250
that it's... it's not the best but for lead usually
00:27:33.250 --> 00:27:36.369
it's pretty good to be a bit like light and and
00:27:36.369 --> 00:27:42.710
small and also there's another reason um i when
00:27:42.710 --> 00:27:44.609
i started climbing it was actually doing the
00:27:44.609 --> 00:27:47.109
only lead it was only a lead wall in my city
00:27:47.109 --> 00:27:52.450
yeah so as until i was like 15 i think i there
00:27:52.450 --> 00:27:55.890
was like no bouldering gyms like now nowadays
00:27:55.890 --> 00:27:58.569
we have like many many bouldering gyms in paris
00:27:58.569 --> 00:28:02.579
but 10 years ago there was none Or maybe there
00:28:02.579 --> 00:28:04.859
was one at the opposite side of Paris. I couldn't
00:28:04.859 --> 00:28:07.819
go on my own. I was just not going. So I was
00:28:07.819 --> 00:28:12.759
just training leads until I was 15. So I think
00:28:12.759 --> 00:28:17.220
also that's why I tend to have a bit better results
00:28:17.220 --> 00:28:20.680
at the lead and a bit better feeling on the lead
00:28:20.680 --> 00:28:25.259
wall. I didn't really grow up into bouldering
00:28:25.259 --> 00:28:28.119
and also modern style bouldering. Yeah, that
00:28:28.119 --> 00:28:29.940
makes sense. Yeah, this didn't really exist.
00:28:30.569 --> 00:28:33.170
Yeah, you mentioned that maybe you're, like,
00:28:33.190 --> 00:28:35.990
smaller or have shorter arms. What's your, like,
00:28:35.990 --> 00:28:40.789
height and wingspan? I'm 170. I think it's, like,
00:28:40.829 --> 00:28:46.130
5 '7". Oh, you're also? Yeah. And, like, 174
00:28:46.130 --> 00:28:49.190
span. Oh, okay. So you still have a plus. Yeah,
00:28:49.190 --> 00:28:54.769
yeah, yeah. But 74 is... For an average World
00:28:54.769 --> 00:28:58.109
Cup climber, 74 is... Oh, really? It's really
00:28:58.109 --> 00:29:03.700
short, yeah. It's like Max is a bit smaller than
00:29:03.700 --> 00:29:07.619
me. I think it's basically only him and maybe
00:29:07.619 --> 00:29:11.299
one other guy. We are like the shortest. Most
00:29:11.299 --> 00:29:14.380
guys are. Some of them are not. Yeah, Sasha is
00:29:14.380 --> 00:29:16.299
also really, really short, but he's doing lead.
00:29:16.579 --> 00:29:20.319
Yeah. In bowling, you don't have many. You have
00:29:20.319 --> 00:29:23.240
short at least, but with really long arms. Right.
00:29:23.400 --> 00:29:27.700
True. Okay. Yeah, I think. I feel like there's
00:29:27.700 --> 00:29:29.940
a lot, there's always a lot of talk about setting
00:29:29.940 --> 00:29:32.880
being unfair on the women's side for like shorter
00:29:32.880 --> 00:29:35.339
women. It's never really talked about on the
00:29:35.339 --> 00:29:37.819
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00:29:37.880 --> 00:29:39.960
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because the difference is huge between the tallest.
00:30:20.089 --> 00:30:23.190
At least like you have some girls who have same
00:30:23.190 --> 00:30:26.410
as boys span, like really long arms. But you
00:30:26.410 --> 00:30:28.809
have also some way smaller girls than we have
00:30:28.809 --> 00:30:31.710
in the boys. Like, well, my sister, for example,
00:30:31.789 --> 00:30:36.029
she's like 157 and she has about like 157 span.
00:30:36.589 --> 00:30:38.970
Meanwhile, the tallest leads in the girls are
00:30:38.970 --> 00:30:41.589
like, I don't know, probably some of them are
00:30:41.589 --> 00:30:46.269
like 180 and they have 180 or 190 span. It's
00:30:46.269 --> 00:30:49.680
like a huge difference. I see. what about like
00:30:49.680 --> 00:30:53.680
between you and like paul and paul paul is one
00:30:53.680 --> 00:30:58.759
i would say one maybe 185 and he has pretty much
00:30:58.759 --> 00:31:02.480
like two almost two meters uh for a span yeah
00:31:02.480 --> 00:31:03.759
i didn't know there was such a big difference
00:31:03.759 --> 00:31:06.099
on the limit side that's good to know yeah so
00:31:06.099 --> 00:31:08.119
you feel like you struggle more with like the
00:31:08.119 --> 00:31:11.660
big moves in boulder yeah it's more like usually
00:31:11.660 --> 00:31:15.099
the jumps that are making it hard the rush is
00:31:16.039 --> 00:31:18.400
it's fine if it's big moves but you can reach
00:31:18.400 --> 00:31:21.700
then it's okay but they usually the setters don't
00:31:21.700 --> 00:31:24.279
make a move that i i just cannot reach this they
00:31:24.279 --> 00:31:27.460
still be a bit careful about this because it
00:31:27.460 --> 00:31:30.500
would be quite ugly to see somebody just not
00:31:30.500 --> 00:31:33.380
reaching yeah yeah Well, then you'll start getting
00:31:33.380 --> 00:31:35.440
the same complaints as the women's circuit, I
00:31:35.440 --> 00:31:37.460
guess. Yeah, exactly. So one of the audience
00:31:37.460 --> 00:31:41.220
questions that came in from Josh Malapit, top
00:31:41.220 --> 00:31:44.220
three tips for short kings and useful training
00:31:44.220 --> 00:31:47.480
routines related to that. Short kings, you got
00:31:47.480 --> 00:31:53.000
to be really powerful if you're short. Well,
00:31:53.140 --> 00:31:55.920
it depends. I mean, this question is interesting,
00:31:56.039 --> 00:31:59.140
but I don't know. Is he doing bouldering lead?
00:31:59.339 --> 00:32:01.420
I don't know. We don't know. Yeah, that's true.
00:32:02.140 --> 00:32:05.480
Let's do... Well, I mean, are the tips different
00:32:05.480 --> 00:32:09.180
for bouldering versus lead? Yeah. Also different
00:32:09.180 --> 00:32:12.519
if you climb inside or outdoors. If you're a
00:32:12.519 --> 00:32:15.579
short king, if you want to do competition, you
00:32:15.579 --> 00:32:18.720
really have to train the legs because you're
00:32:18.720 --> 00:32:22.400
going to have to jump a bit higher than everybody.
00:32:22.859 --> 00:32:24.599
That's going to be the main difference. Also
00:32:24.599 --> 00:32:28.710
in bouldering, it's not... All boulders, it's
00:32:28.710 --> 00:32:32.829
not always better to be tall. I mean, being light
00:32:32.829 --> 00:32:38.950
is also really good. Where it's really a problem
00:32:38.950 --> 00:32:42.529
is mostly for jumps, actually. The rest is fine.
00:32:42.609 --> 00:32:46.289
You can be really strong while being short. So
00:32:46.289 --> 00:32:48.549
yeah, I would advise just if you're into competition,
00:32:48.789 --> 00:32:57.579
work on the jumps and be good at slabs. This
00:32:57.579 --> 00:33:02.539
can get you out of bad situations. And yeah,
00:33:02.700 --> 00:33:06.579
you got to have good grip, flexible. You got
00:33:06.579 --> 00:33:09.660
to be strong at everything if you're short. You
00:33:09.660 --> 00:33:14.279
cannot have some weak spots. Okay. What about
00:33:14.279 --> 00:33:16.720
for outdoors? I don't climb that much outdoors,
00:33:16.779 --> 00:33:19.220
but I think most people who climb outdoors have
00:33:19.220 --> 00:33:25.579
really good grip. going outdoors it means that
00:33:25.579 --> 00:33:27.460
you can choose the boulders as well so if you're
00:33:27.460 --> 00:33:30.359
short you can just choose boulders yeah exactly
00:33:30.359 --> 00:33:34.059
okay that's what i would do like it's also fun
00:33:34.059 --> 00:33:37.200
to get like uh spanned on moves but if you just
00:33:37.200 --> 00:33:39.599
can't reach them maybe just do something else
00:33:39.599 --> 00:33:42.940
yeah i mean i guess outdoors it doesn't even
00:33:42.940 --> 00:33:45.440
really matter as much because i mean there's
00:33:45.440 --> 00:33:48.460
also gonna be like women climbing those same
00:33:48.460 --> 00:33:51.420
yeah like climbs probably and so they'll also
00:33:51.420 --> 00:33:54.359
probably be shorter So I think you can find your
00:33:54.359 --> 00:33:56.759
own beta that way. Yeah, if there's a boulder,
00:33:56.859 --> 00:33:58.839
you can also find your own beta. Some boulders
00:33:58.839 --> 00:34:02.079
you cannot, but I think most of them you can
00:34:02.079 --> 00:34:05.380
find a way. Sometimes when I go climb outside,
00:34:05.480 --> 00:34:09.260
there's this boulder, and especially in Font,
00:34:09.420 --> 00:34:11.920
you have this hole and this hole, and you just
00:34:11.920 --> 00:34:15.300
cannot reach. I mean, it's okay. You have many
00:34:15.300 --> 00:34:18.030
boulders around, just do something else. so do
00:34:18.030 --> 00:34:20.610
you have like do you incorporate a lot of power
00:34:20.610 --> 00:34:22.630
and like like stuff into your training routine
00:34:22.630 --> 00:34:29.369
yeah i do uh like trainings uh i did this year
00:34:29.369 --> 00:34:33.510
um i started for like two or three months in
00:34:33.510 --> 00:34:40.889
the winter i did um two sessions a week uh of
00:34:40.889 --> 00:34:45.090
like training i uh i have a friend who's working
00:34:45.090 --> 00:34:49.400
in um He's coaching. I don't know how you call
00:34:49.400 --> 00:34:52.400
these guys in English, but the guys at the gym
00:34:52.400 --> 00:34:56.500
who are like teachers, how you call this? Specifically
00:34:56.500 --> 00:34:59.659
for the weight training. Oh, like power lifting?
00:35:00.280 --> 00:35:02.860
Yeah, something like this. Bodybuilding? Yeah,
00:35:02.980 --> 00:35:07.579
for basketball players. He's working for this.
00:35:07.760 --> 00:35:10.460
Oh, no, I don't know what that is. Okay. Well,
00:35:10.460 --> 00:35:13.500
I also don't know. Editing here, I think the
00:35:13.500 --> 00:35:17.320
word is plyometrics. So I have a friend who's
00:35:17.320 --> 00:35:19.659
doing this, and so I asked him, yeah, I want
00:35:19.659 --> 00:35:23.280
to jump higher, and can you, like, start a schedule
00:35:23.280 --> 00:35:26.079
near training? I also have some training on the
00:35:26.079 --> 00:35:28.980
side, like, for climbing, so I cannot do, like,
00:35:28.980 --> 00:35:32.679
this whole day. But I can do twice a week for,
00:35:32.800 --> 00:35:35.880
like, let's say an hour to two hours session.
00:35:36.500 --> 00:35:39.500
And I have a few months, like, can you get me
00:35:39.500 --> 00:35:41.780
programmed to get, like, jump higher? And I did,
00:35:41.920 --> 00:35:44.289
and it's working pretty well. okay so then going
00:35:44.289 --> 00:35:47.309
into your training a bit um well how often do
00:35:47.309 --> 00:35:49.389
you train with the french team is there much
00:35:49.389 --> 00:35:51.829
like team training or is it just mostly yeah
00:35:51.829 --> 00:35:55.210
we have team training sometimes when next week
00:35:55.210 --> 00:35:58.650
i'm going to team training we have uh team trainings
00:35:58.650 --> 00:36:03.210
in bouldering in lead quite often i would say
00:36:03.210 --> 00:36:10.150
let's maybe once every two months and but this
00:36:10.150 --> 00:36:12.530
is like everybody comes and we all train together
00:36:12.530 --> 00:36:15.070
in ballering it's usually in fontainebleau in
00:36:15.070 --> 00:36:20.010
karma uh we have some boulders sets and simulations
00:36:20.010 --> 00:36:25.070
and yeah it's really good uh and lead it's about
00:36:25.070 --> 00:36:27.789
the same a bit i think we have a bit more in
00:36:27.789 --> 00:36:30.769
lead but a bit less people though because it's
00:36:30.769 --> 00:36:34.329
sometimes like the coach uh one of the coaching
00:36:34.329 --> 00:36:36.670
leading well there's my mom he's one of the coaches
00:36:36.670 --> 00:36:39.969
and the Let's say the boss, the main coach of
00:36:39.969 --> 00:36:43.070
the late team is Romain Desgrange. And he lives
00:36:43.070 --> 00:36:48.909
in Chamonix. And so he does sometimes, quite
00:36:48.909 --> 00:36:51.469
often, some training camps in Chamonix. But it's
00:36:51.469 --> 00:36:54.309
a bit hard to get there. So usually not many
00:36:54.309 --> 00:36:57.030
people go. So you guys don't have a national
00:36:57.030 --> 00:36:58.630
training center or anything like that? Yeah,
00:36:58.650 --> 00:37:03.690
we have. We have two or three. Oh, wow. We have
00:37:03.690 --> 00:37:09.739
three, actually. But, I mean... It's just the
00:37:09.739 --> 00:37:13.300
center. We have one in Voiron, close to Grenoble.
00:37:13.699 --> 00:37:20.340
The one in Voiron is... Most of the climbers
00:37:20.340 --> 00:37:25.559
there are from the youth team. And a few are
00:37:25.559 --> 00:37:31.300
from the senior team. Not many guys from the
00:37:31.300 --> 00:37:34.559
French team are actually from this place. And
00:37:34.559 --> 00:37:38.440
Karma, the Fontainebleau wall, that's a training
00:37:38.440 --> 00:37:42.760
center. And everybody from the bouldering team
00:37:42.760 --> 00:37:47.000
goes there. And you mentioned that you do your
00:37:47.000 --> 00:37:49.659
training, or you write your own training plan?
00:37:49.840 --> 00:37:51.699
And you've been doing that for a while? Yeah,
00:37:51.699 --> 00:37:56.099
I do. How do you come up with what you need to
00:37:56.099 --> 00:37:59.559
work on? Well, I just watched the comps, I realized.
00:38:00.679 --> 00:38:04.780
Like I was in the comp, I can see also other
00:38:04.780 --> 00:38:07.679
people climbing. I also trained with some other
00:38:07.679 --> 00:38:11.039
people from the World Cups. It's not so hard
00:38:11.039 --> 00:38:15.460
to see where you suck at. It's usually quite
00:38:15.460 --> 00:38:17.380
obvious, especially when you're climbing with
00:38:17.380 --> 00:38:19.820
the best climbers in the world. If there's a
00:38:19.820 --> 00:38:22.599
little thing you like, then it's quite obvious.
00:38:22.920 --> 00:38:25.880
So you don't even work with like a coach who
00:38:25.880 --> 00:38:28.960
watches back your videos or like a strength and
00:38:28.960 --> 00:38:31.079
conditioning coach or anything like that? Well,
00:38:31.219 --> 00:38:34.219
I have this guy for my legs. Oh, okay. Yeah.
00:38:34.300 --> 00:38:39.900
I also have a physio I go to see really often.
00:38:40.420 --> 00:38:43.840
Like, let's say almost once a week. but i don't
00:38:43.840 --> 00:38:46.199
really have a coach to like you know check the
00:38:46.199 --> 00:38:48.500
videos and stuff i just you know i just like
00:38:48.500 --> 00:38:51.019
to do it myself i also have some people around
00:38:51.019 --> 00:38:54.039
like i mean i'm not completely alone i can talk
00:38:54.039 --> 00:38:57.519
about it with the french team coaches if i want
00:38:57.519 --> 00:39:02.219
to like let's say after a comp uh every time
00:39:02.219 --> 00:39:04.559
we have a calm then after the comp the coach
00:39:04.559 --> 00:39:06.860
is gonna come to us and say okay this was good
00:39:06.860 --> 00:39:10.099
this was maybe you can improve a bit so it's
00:39:10.099 --> 00:39:14.199
not fully blind and some Also, I have, well,
00:39:14.239 --> 00:39:17.059
my mom also, I see her a lot. So if she thinks
00:39:17.059 --> 00:39:20.579
of something, she just tells me, you know. I
00:39:20.579 --> 00:39:24.360
have also another guy who's in my club, Jim.
00:39:25.340 --> 00:39:28.539
He's a coach for the club. He's not my coach,
00:39:28.599 --> 00:39:31.079
but he's usually here when I train the lead.
00:39:31.159 --> 00:39:33.300
He's coaching a few guys from the French team,
00:39:33.340 --> 00:39:36.739
from the lead team. And he's setting all the
00:39:36.739 --> 00:39:40.519
routes. He's asking for some route setters to
00:39:40.519 --> 00:39:44.320
come. I think also a big part of the training
00:39:44.320 --> 00:39:48.159
is just management, just asking people to come
00:39:48.159 --> 00:39:53.199
for setting, preparing some trips, stuff like
00:39:53.199 --> 00:39:55.719
this. One of the audience questions that came
00:39:55.719 --> 00:39:59.900
in was from t -rex .beta, and it was, how do
00:39:59.900 --> 00:40:05.760
you self -coach? Well, first you have to be really
00:40:05.760 --> 00:40:10.369
motivated. what's gonna be the first thing you're
00:40:10.369 --> 00:40:13.710
gonna like is getting pushed by somebody or or
00:40:13.710 --> 00:40:17.469
if nobody's watching you it's like yeah you have
00:40:17.469 --> 00:40:20.090
to be serious otherwise if nobody tells you what
00:40:20.090 --> 00:40:22.989
to do you're gonna slowly drift to doing nothing
00:40:22.989 --> 00:40:26.090
and just okay just enjoying so yeah you gotta
00:40:26.090 --> 00:40:31.309
be a little serious um but i mean i also once
00:40:31.309 --> 00:40:33.429
again i don't know who who that person is and
00:40:33.429 --> 00:40:36.730
what what he is doing so it's hard to insert
00:40:37.320 --> 00:40:39.760
But if you're into competition, I think you're
00:40:39.760 --> 00:40:44.219
already quite motivated. So if you feel like
00:40:44.219 --> 00:40:46.119
you want to coach yourself, it's really also
00:40:46.119 --> 00:40:50.719
important to watch a lot, to watch the comps,
00:40:50.840 --> 00:40:56.480
try to ask if you have the chance to the best
00:40:56.480 --> 00:40:59.519
athletes, what are you doing? What are you training
00:40:59.519 --> 00:41:02.739
every day? To watch them climb, watch them train
00:41:02.739 --> 00:41:07.639
as well, not only in comps. Yeah, you can learn
00:41:07.639 --> 00:41:09.699
a lot from that. Yeah, that makes sense. A lot
00:41:09.699 --> 00:41:11.980
of recording yourself and watching that back.
00:41:12.099 --> 00:41:15.239
Yeah, recording yourself and also watching other
00:41:15.239 --> 00:41:22.760
people climbing and trying to do it on purpose,
00:41:22.900 --> 00:41:26.869
like to copy. Yeah, that makes sense. And since
00:41:26.869 --> 00:41:30.050
maybe you have some insight into this, what differences
00:41:30.050 --> 00:41:32.610
are there between your mom's training and your
00:41:32.610 --> 00:41:35.030
training nowadays? Is there something new that
00:41:35.030 --> 00:41:37.489
people have learned in this time for better climbing?
00:41:37.969 --> 00:41:41.690
Yeah, I think there's quite a difference. My
00:41:41.690 --> 00:41:48.530
mom, she studied a lot for sports science. And
00:41:48.530 --> 00:41:54.380
she's really into... physical training, like
00:41:54.380 --> 00:41:56.519
weightlifting, physical training, everything
00:41:56.519 --> 00:42:01.199
you can do besides of climbing. And I usually
00:42:01.199 --> 00:42:04.500
try to do most of my training just climbing and
00:42:04.500 --> 00:42:07.739
do just a little bit what I need on the weightlifting.
00:42:07.980 --> 00:42:11.239
She's really into the lifting and getting strong
00:42:11.239 --> 00:42:16.300
without being on the wall, which is for some
00:42:16.300 --> 00:42:19.960
people really good. It's just like also everybody's
00:42:19.960 --> 00:42:23.130
different. Some people really like this. and
00:42:23.130 --> 00:42:25.949
so it's really nice for them some people like
00:42:25.949 --> 00:42:29.929
something else so everybody doesn't train like
00:42:29.929 --> 00:42:33.630
the same way even in the world cups like everybody
00:42:33.630 --> 00:42:36.409
has his own plan i think it kind of seems like
00:42:36.409 --> 00:42:39.349
there's more of a focus on technique rather than
00:42:39.349 --> 00:42:43.630
like physique or physical um pulling specifically
00:42:43.630 --> 00:42:46.050
in the french team do you think that is the case
00:42:46.050 --> 00:42:51.469
uh yeah well if you compare it to your like Other
00:42:51.469 --> 00:42:57.329
teams, yes. Also, the culture of the sport in
00:42:57.329 --> 00:43:02.530
France is... Now we see this, what you're talking
00:43:02.530 --> 00:43:07.150
about, a lot in the youth leagues. Because about
00:43:07.150 --> 00:43:10.650
10 years ago, we started to have many, many commercial
00:43:10.650 --> 00:43:14.670
gyms in Paris and in France. And suddenly, a
00:43:14.670 --> 00:43:17.309
lot of people started climbing. But those gyms
00:43:17.309 --> 00:43:20.369
were not designed for building World Cup athletes.
00:43:20.969 --> 00:43:24.030
they were designed to like make some money to
00:43:24.030 --> 00:43:30.070
get some clients so um it was like most of those
00:43:30.070 --> 00:43:36.170
gyms had only slabs and or almost only slabs
00:43:36.170 --> 00:43:43.050
and not necessarily hard boulders so yeah like
00:43:43.050 --> 00:43:46.909
the french style drifted slowly to everybody
00:43:46.909 --> 00:43:49.550
like when you have only have this to train on
00:43:49.550 --> 00:43:53.650
then you get good at it but you like some some
00:43:53.650 --> 00:43:56.489
other stuff it's like the opposite of the japanese
00:43:56.489 --> 00:44:00.090
climbing team like complete opposite they have
00:44:00.090 --> 00:44:05.630
like uh very very small fewer gyms but they don't
00:44:05.630 --> 00:44:08.429
have any slab at all they're more into like yeah
00:44:08.429 --> 00:44:12.710
they're a bit less the gyms are a bit less commercial
00:44:13.340 --> 00:44:15.940
It's a bit more like, let's say somebody opens
00:44:15.940 --> 00:44:18.300
his gym, he's like passionate about climbing
00:44:18.300 --> 00:44:21.460
and usually a bit about rock climbing. So they
00:44:21.460 --> 00:44:25.320
sit like this, they buy this very, very small
00:44:25.320 --> 00:44:28.519
place and they just make like everything overhanging.
00:44:28.900 --> 00:44:31.960
Okay. So while everybody's good at overhangs,
00:44:31.960 --> 00:44:35.159
there's no like secret and obviously likes a
00:44:35.159 --> 00:44:37.559
bit sometimes in slabs. I mean, I wouldn't necessarily
00:44:37.559 --> 00:44:40.550
say that just because a gym is all slabs. necessarily
00:44:40.550 --> 00:44:43.250
means it's gonna be easy i think a lot of people
00:44:43.250 --> 00:44:46.309
think that also the the route setting is yeah
00:44:46.309 --> 00:44:49.090
more like commercial you don't have like compared
00:44:49.090 --> 00:44:51.989
to i'm i'm just saying compared to japan actually
00:44:51.989 --> 00:44:56.570
because other other uh countries i have the same
00:44:56.570 --> 00:45:00.530
uh in like let's say now you go to paris uh any
00:45:00.530 --> 00:45:03.250
gym in paris you have like maybe one that's makes
00:45:03.250 --> 00:45:07.869
some time some world cup level boulders but You
00:45:07.869 --> 00:45:10.949
won't see any walk -up level boulder in a gym
00:45:10.949 --> 00:45:14.210
in Paris unless sometimes you have some slabs
00:45:14.210 --> 00:45:17.690
because the slabs can be really hard, but nothing
00:45:17.690 --> 00:45:21.070
else. The hardest physical boulders in the gym,
00:45:21.070 --> 00:45:23.469
there makes no sense for a walk -up climber in
00:45:23.469 --> 00:45:27.789
most gyms. Are there any gyms in Paris that you
00:45:27.789 --> 00:45:30.110
think people should check out or go to if they
00:45:30.110 --> 00:45:34.820
want true hard climbing? Yeah, well... one that
00:45:34.820 --> 00:45:40.239
like inside of paris uh the one that's most interesting
00:45:40.239 --> 00:45:42.860
is climbing district the one where you have this
00:45:42.860 --> 00:45:49.460
comp like the tba the couple uh comp um this
00:45:49.460 --> 00:45:52.460
one usually they have like a kind of comp wall
00:45:52.460 --> 00:45:56.300
uh like it's on two floors and the second floor
00:45:56.300 --> 00:46:01.320
has a comp wall and they set uh during the season
00:46:01.320 --> 00:46:04.360
they always set a simulation for world cup So
00:46:04.360 --> 00:46:09.119
they almost always have hard bowlers, like four
00:46:09.119 --> 00:46:12.820
bowlers for men and four bowlers for women. Oh,
00:46:12.820 --> 00:46:15.179
perfect. Okay, cool. Which is really good for,
00:46:15.260 --> 00:46:18.500
yeah, usually people who come to Paris for training,
00:46:18.599 --> 00:46:21.880
the international, at least they go here at least
00:46:21.880 --> 00:46:25.340
once to do the simulation. Then you have Karma,
00:46:25.500 --> 00:46:28.039
well, because it's not inside of Paris, like
00:46:28.039 --> 00:46:31.440
it's in Fontainebleau. You have karma, you always
00:46:31.440 --> 00:46:33.500
have hard boulders. And close to Paris, where
00:46:33.500 --> 00:46:37.099
I live in Messy, we have one that's Arcos. Arcos,
00:46:37.159 --> 00:46:40.440
Messy. We have two route setters here, Sergio
00:46:40.440 --> 00:46:44.920
and Maelis. They are IFC route setters. And they're
00:46:44.920 --> 00:46:49.059
employed in this gym. Also, many strong climbers
00:46:49.059 --> 00:46:53.340
leave Messy and go to this gym. So they're also
00:46:53.340 --> 00:46:57.340
allowed to set a little harder. Next time I come
00:46:57.340 --> 00:46:58.940
to Paris, I'll have to check it out. Yeah, yeah.
00:46:59.880 --> 00:47:03.199
This one, Akos Masi, is probably the nicest.
00:47:03.460 --> 00:47:06.760
And also, as it's not inside of Paris, usually
00:47:06.760 --> 00:47:09.659
a bit less crowded. What are your top tips for
00:47:09.659 --> 00:47:13.420
French slab? Obviously, you have to do a lot.
00:47:13.880 --> 00:47:16.559
It's hard because you have many kinds of slabs.
00:47:16.719 --> 00:47:18.880
You have the ones with the small footholds. You
00:47:18.880 --> 00:47:20.420
have the ones with the volumes. You have the
00:47:20.420 --> 00:47:23.239
ones with coordination. Let's say you want to
00:47:23.239 --> 00:47:26.519
get good at slabbing in competition. You usually
00:47:26.519 --> 00:47:31.130
have some trends in the setting. A few years
00:47:31.130 --> 00:47:33.309
ago, for example, we had a lot of like walking
00:47:33.309 --> 00:47:37.110
on volumes. This was like the thing we had to
00:47:37.110 --> 00:47:39.349
walk on volumes. And like the next year, last
00:47:39.349 --> 00:47:42.909
year, now it's a bit more like you have a slab,
00:47:42.929 --> 00:47:45.329
then it's going to be really small feet. So those
00:47:45.329 --> 00:47:47.849
are like two really different. So if you see
00:47:47.849 --> 00:47:49.769
like this year in the World Cup, they start to
00:47:49.769 --> 00:47:53.269
do like small feet or more coordination or there's
00:47:53.269 --> 00:47:57.269
a move. Like, you know, for example, for a few
00:47:57.269 --> 00:48:02.619
months now in the French, Like in the country,
00:48:02.760 --> 00:48:04.659
in the setting, there was like a trend where
00:48:04.659 --> 00:48:07.940
you had to, in a slab, kind of run and land on
00:48:07.940 --> 00:48:11.139
a small foothold. This was a thing. Then you
00:48:11.139 --> 00:48:13.340
see this, then just practice this, try to set
00:48:13.340 --> 00:48:15.800
it yourself. Do it a few times, your body's going
00:48:15.800 --> 00:48:17.679
to learn. And then you're going to see, usually
00:48:17.679 --> 00:48:19.780
in the comps, it's a bit less hard than what
00:48:19.780 --> 00:48:22.559
you can do in an hour or two. So you're going
00:48:22.559 --> 00:48:24.780
to make it a bit easier. But I think you've got
00:48:24.780 --> 00:48:28.500
to really practice on... obviously boulders,
00:48:28.579 --> 00:48:30.679
but also some moves that you see often. Like
00:48:30.679 --> 00:48:33.420
you have a few moves that are always the boulders.
00:48:34.440 --> 00:48:37.360
And if you cannot do like the basic movements,
00:48:37.559 --> 00:48:40.119
then you're never going to do the boulders. What
00:48:40.119 --> 00:48:43.119
are the basic movements? Yeah, like standing
00:48:43.119 --> 00:48:46.940
on a foot is very technical sometimes. Like with
00:48:46.940 --> 00:48:49.519
the balance, you can shift from one side to another
00:48:49.519 --> 00:48:55.199
to gain some speed. Like, yeah, mostly just standing,
00:48:55.579 --> 00:48:59.320
foot like... How do you say this? Swapping foot.
00:48:59.440 --> 00:49:01.800
Yeah, just swapping feet. Swapping feet. You
00:49:01.800 --> 00:49:05.199
also just drink it a few, doing it a few times
00:49:05.199 --> 00:49:08.079
each time you go to the gym. It's going to make
00:49:08.079 --> 00:49:11.619
you more confident. And you're going to understand
00:49:11.619 --> 00:49:14.019
like you start probably at first you're going
00:49:14.019 --> 00:49:16.780
to be like this trying to do it slowly. And then
00:49:16.780 --> 00:49:18.579
you're going to find technique that suits for
00:49:18.579 --> 00:49:20.599
you. Like maybe putting your foot like this works
00:49:20.599 --> 00:49:23.280
better. And if you do it like every day, you're
00:49:23.280 --> 00:49:25.260
going to feel like, yeah, this is the way. And
00:49:25.260 --> 00:49:26.539
you're going to show up on the boulder in the
00:49:26.539 --> 00:49:28.559
comp and be like, you're not going to have to
00:49:28.559 --> 00:49:30.480
think of it. It's just going to do it. Yeah.
00:49:30.579 --> 00:49:33.159
Do you have tips for maybe like trusting your
00:49:33.159 --> 00:49:36.780
feet? Trusting your feet. Other than just trust
00:49:36.780 --> 00:49:40.539
your feet. Other than just trust your feet. It's,
00:49:40.539 --> 00:49:45.880
I mean, the shoes are important, but there's
00:49:45.880 --> 00:49:50.119
no better, yeah. Trust your feet. Also, even
00:49:50.119 --> 00:49:53.579
us, we have this problem in the World Cups and
00:49:53.579 --> 00:49:56.340
in the trainings. And the coaches, when they
00:49:56.340 --> 00:50:01.599
see us on the slab and we're just not confident,
00:50:01.800 --> 00:50:06.579
they also say, just trust it. There's worst case
00:50:06.579 --> 00:50:10.380
scenario, you slip. But if you start to not trust
00:50:10.380 --> 00:50:12.760
it and look at it and get your ass out of the
00:50:12.760 --> 00:50:14.940
wall, that's the worst you can do. So, yeah.
00:50:15.559 --> 00:50:18.039
The only way is to trust even if you feel like
00:50:18.039 --> 00:50:21.300
it's slipping. And maybe you get lucky this time
00:50:21.300 --> 00:50:26.039
it's going to stick. It's a percentage. It's
00:50:26.039 --> 00:50:30.340
statistics. Sometimes it's going to be worth
00:50:30.340 --> 00:50:33.099
it. Do you think you have a lot of trouble trusting
00:50:33.099 --> 00:50:35.800
it? Or at some point, do you just kind of just
00:50:35.800 --> 00:50:38.460
go for it? Well, the holes can always be smaller.
00:50:39.119 --> 00:50:43.400
Yeah. You always have some trouble with this.
00:50:44.139 --> 00:50:47.559
but it's funny because you can like when i told
00:50:47.559 --> 00:50:51.320
you like to practice moves like a lot to do and
00:50:51.320 --> 00:50:53.619
do again like let's say you do a slab let's do
00:50:53.619 --> 00:50:55.539
again and try to do it like three times in a
00:50:55.539 --> 00:50:58.699
row for example i do that a lot because sometimes
00:50:58.699 --> 00:51:01.960
you show up on a boulder it's a slab and you
00:51:01.960 --> 00:51:04.760
have like one full hole you're not feeling confident
00:51:04.760 --> 00:51:07.019
you're not feeling confident you do a few tries
00:51:07.019 --> 00:51:09.159
you're getting like far from the wall falling
00:51:09.159 --> 00:51:14.079
and then once you do the boulder suddenly you
00:51:14.079 --> 00:51:16.820
the the foothold is not better but you just can
00:51:16.820 --> 00:51:20.920
do it easily because you your range is so that
00:51:20.920 --> 00:51:24.239
it's possible you can do it so you trust it and
00:51:24.239 --> 00:51:27.639
you do it easily happens a lot on slabs so maybe
00:51:27.639 --> 00:51:31.539
it's just like watch someone else do it and believe
00:51:31.539 --> 00:51:34.840
you can also do it well also like also watching
00:51:34.840 --> 00:51:37.920
somebody do it is helps a lot in the confidence
00:51:37.920 --> 00:51:41.840
yeah yeah definitely Okay. And then I guess sort
00:51:41.840 --> 00:51:45.960
of along the lines of that, with what's going
00:51:45.960 --> 00:51:48.900
on mentally when you're climbing, one of the
00:51:48.900 --> 00:51:52.519
audience questions that came in from Anselm .alp,
00:51:52.679 --> 00:51:54.880
what are you thinking about when you're climbing?
00:51:56.960 --> 00:52:05.840
That's a tough question. It depends. best case
00:52:05.840 --> 00:52:08.280
is you're not thinking of anything you're just
00:52:08.280 --> 00:52:10.320
climbing you're in a comp everything is going
00:52:10.320 --> 00:52:14.920
fine moves are like doing fine you're you're
00:52:14.920 --> 00:52:18.780
not thinking you're uh actually sometimes when
00:52:18.780 --> 00:52:20.860
you climb well and you're you have a good flow
00:52:20.860 --> 00:52:24.880
you don't even remember climbing the route uh
00:52:24.880 --> 00:52:28.800
this is the best you don't hear or see anything
00:52:28.800 --> 00:52:33.980
it just goes uh sometimes you're like thinking
00:52:33.980 --> 00:52:38.929
of if let's say I'm on a slab I'm thinking of
00:52:38.929 --> 00:52:41.590
I'm trying to think of one thing like for this
00:52:41.590 --> 00:52:45.269
move like go really far right or go really far
00:52:45.269 --> 00:52:48.070
left or move this hand like this and I'm trying
00:52:48.070 --> 00:52:52.570
to keep it like one thing so so the rest doesn't
00:52:52.570 --> 00:52:55.869
like bother me because also if you try too much
00:52:55.869 --> 00:52:59.849
about thinking about nothing this is worse you
00:52:59.849 --> 00:53:03.210
can do because then many thoughts show up you
00:53:03.210 --> 00:53:06.070
hear the crowd you're like who who's there You
00:53:06.070 --> 00:53:08.010
watch around, oh, he did this boulder, he did
00:53:08.010 --> 00:53:14.889
this boulder. So, yeah, usually what happens
00:53:14.889 --> 00:53:17.969
is that, yeah, what I do is I try to focus on
00:53:17.969 --> 00:53:22.449
my boulder. And if I can watch around also, not
00:53:22.449 --> 00:53:27.989
going to always impact me. And always go back
00:53:27.989 --> 00:53:30.530
to the boulder and try to think before you try
00:53:30.530 --> 00:53:34.619
of one thing. one thing to change yeah one let's
00:53:34.619 --> 00:53:37.320
say two if like the boulder is a slab it's long
00:53:37.320 --> 00:53:39.199
and you have on this move i'm gonna think of
00:53:39.199 --> 00:53:42.559
this and then i have this this i can switch this
00:53:42.559 --> 00:53:45.320
foothold is good i can think of the rest and
00:53:45.320 --> 00:53:48.079
then i i think of something else but yeah what
00:53:48.079 --> 00:53:50.559
do you think is like the worst case that has
00:53:50.559 --> 00:53:53.099
happened to you during a competition like mentally
00:53:53.099 --> 00:53:58.619
during a climb yeah i have example like in oculus
00:53:58.619 --> 00:54:03.739
in the first oculus in shanghai Mentally, it
00:54:03.739 --> 00:54:08.239
was really hard because obviously having a very
00:54:08.239 --> 00:54:11.400
high pressure round and a very important comp,
00:54:11.559 --> 00:54:16.780
this can be tough. And if you don't, let's say,
00:54:16.820 --> 00:54:19.260
treat it properly, then it's going to be really,
00:54:19.320 --> 00:54:24.420
really tough. And I remember this round was really
00:54:24.420 --> 00:54:28.909
hard. The boulders were super hard and ice. I
00:54:28.909 --> 00:54:31.369
basically scored like no points in the ball ring,
00:54:31.449 --> 00:54:33.610
almost like maybe five points. Or I did like,
00:54:33.650 --> 00:54:36.550
maybe I did one move in the whole round. Oh,
00:54:36.550 --> 00:54:40.949
wow. Yeah. And this, I mean, it's terrible when
00:54:40.949 --> 00:54:44.489
you just, you're trying to, the worst case, like
00:54:44.489 --> 00:54:46.809
you're trying hard to make it right, to do it
00:54:46.809 --> 00:54:50.849
good, to be serious, professional, and you just
00:54:50.849 --> 00:54:54.929
cannot do any move. Yeah. That's just the worst
00:54:54.929 --> 00:54:58.269
you can do. I mean, there's not much difference.
00:54:58.829 --> 00:55:01.030
It's just about like the boulders are a bit harder
00:55:01.030 --> 00:55:05.889
for you. But mentally, it's terrible. And then
00:55:05.889 --> 00:55:08.809
I remember I went to the lead wall and I did
00:55:08.809 --> 00:55:12.750
like zero points. I fell at the first draw. Yeah.
00:55:13.489 --> 00:55:16.489
Oh, is it that one? Yeah. It was like a foot
00:55:16.489 --> 00:55:18.170
slip or something like that? Yeah, something
00:55:18.170 --> 00:55:21.190
like this. Yeah. Well, so like how do you mentally
00:55:21.190 --> 00:55:24.929
bounce back from that? I thought there's... I
00:55:24.929 --> 00:55:27.860
was... After this, I was like still... It was
00:55:27.860 --> 00:55:30.320
like two spots for French. I was still the second
00:55:30.320 --> 00:55:35.199
one. I was like, if I do the same in the next
00:55:35.199 --> 00:55:38.280
comp, I'm going to be not inside. So you got
00:55:38.280 --> 00:55:42.699
to really make it better. And so, yeah, I just,
00:55:42.800 --> 00:55:45.460
I mean, I went back to training, tried to give
00:55:45.460 --> 00:55:49.320
100 % like before, rested a bit more before the
00:55:49.320 --> 00:55:53.340
comp. So I was really, really ready. And yeah,
00:55:53.420 --> 00:55:56.739
went a bit better. But also sometimes, I mean,
00:55:57.550 --> 00:56:00.469
the setting is also really important and pulling
00:56:00.469 --> 00:56:06.150
you down. Yeah. And you are a pretty stoic climber.
00:56:06.210 --> 00:56:08.530
I don't feel like you show a lot of emotion during
00:56:08.530 --> 00:56:11.550
competitions. Do you feel like you have a good
00:56:11.550 --> 00:56:15.110
mental game or do the nerves get to you? Sometimes
00:56:15.110 --> 00:56:19.110
yes, sometimes no. I wouldn't say I have always
00:56:19.110 --> 00:56:22.429
very good mental game. I'm not like really, really
00:56:22.429 --> 00:56:27.039
good. I'm not an example of mentally good. climber
00:56:27.039 --> 00:56:30.739
i'm not also an example of mentally bad i would
00:56:30.739 --> 00:56:34.260
say somewhere in the middle um i was about to
00:56:34.260 --> 00:56:36.539
ask who do you think is a mentally bad climber
00:56:36.539 --> 00:56:40.000
but uh mentally bad climber yeah i have my brother
00:56:40.000 --> 00:56:44.219
oh really okay yeah what what is mentally bad
00:56:44.219 --> 00:56:51.440
there it's like um for me somebody's really really
00:56:51.440 --> 00:56:54.400
really strong and he just shows up to comps and
00:56:54.400 --> 00:56:59.159
suddenly he's a bit lazy and you know don't want
00:56:59.159 --> 00:57:03.760
to give which is like i i don't think he's like
00:57:03.760 --> 00:57:06.079
this kind of climber is actually lazy it's just
00:57:06.079 --> 00:57:08.420
like their brain tries to protect them from like
00:57:08.420 --> 00:57:11.539
the stress so suddenly they just get lazy to
00:57:11.539 --> 00:57:17.199
not get um how can i say not get disappointed
00:57:17.199 --> 00:57:23.260
oh okay so it's kind of like like when you Try
00:57:23.260 --> 00:57:26.719
to protect your ego by saying that it doesn't
00:57:26.719 --> 00:57:30.460
matter to you when maybe it does. Exactly. Yeah.
00:57:30.619 --> 00:57:34.639
This happens to, I think it happens to everybody,
00:57:34.719 --> 00:57:39.519
but the mentally strong climbers can remove this
00:57:39.519 --> 00:57:44.760
and try hard even thinking of this. And the ones
00:57:44.760 --> 00:57:48.719
that are a bit less strong mentally, they tend
00:57:48.719 --> 00:57:52.820
to get a bit more hits by this. Do you feel like
00:57:52.820 --> 00:57:54.500
that's something you've had to work on at all,
00:57:54.559 --> 00:57:56.840
or is it just something that you've pushed through?
00:57:57.119 --> 00:58:04.639
I did work on it before Olympics, but I always
00:58:04.639 --> 00:58:09.539
kind of could push through this, even if it was
00:58:09.539 --> 00:58:13.420
a bit prison sometimes, but I was able to still
00:58:13.420 --> 00:58:15.559
go for the comps. Sometimes it's not great, but
00:58:15.559 --> 00:58:21.050
almost all the comps I go, I... I can give 100
00:58:21.050 --> 00:58:24.030
% of what I have. It doesn't necessarily go really
00:58:24.030 --> 00:58:29.329
good, but it's only sometimes that it happens
00:58:29.329 --> 00:58:33.510
to me, this case. But I didn't really work on
00:58:33.510 --> 00:58:36.090
it that much, except for Olympics. I did work
00:58:36.090 --> 00:58:38.130
on it with somebody like a professional. Yeah,
00:58:38.190 --> 00:58:42.550
we had mental coaching during the year before
00:58:42.550 --> 00:58:46.469
Olympics. I had this, yeah. Yeah. Okay, so moving
00:58:46.469 --> 00:58:49.900
on into the... plans you have for the future
00:58:49.900 --> 00:58:52.340
what are your goals for the next upcoming season
00:58:52.340 --> 00:58:58.219
2026 2026 um i want to make it back to the ballering
00:58:58.219 --> 00:59:03.000
team yeah i have a chance to go back i'm in um
00:59:03.000 --> 00:59:07.239
i'm i'm not far i'm like uh in the how do you
00:59:07.239 --> 00:59:11.340
call this uh there's the team who goes to world
00:59:11.340 --> 00:59:14.039
cups and then there's the next the next guy who's
00:59:14.039 --> 00:59:17.099
not going but he can go if If someone drops out
00:59:17.099 --> 00:59:19.199
or doesn't want to go. Yeah, I'm here. I'm close
00:59:19.199 --> 00:59:25.300
by. Okay. There's a solid chance I might do some
00:59:25.300 --> 00:59:28.679
World Cup still. I have to perform well. I go
00:59:28.679 --> 00:59:31.179
to the European Cup. And if I perform well here,
00:59:31.260 --> 00:59:33.679
there's a pretty good chance I go to the World
00:59:33.679 --> 00:59:37.940
Cup. Not in the first World Cup, but a bit later
00:59:37.940 --> 00:59:42.119
in the season. So this is the objective. Going
00:59:42.119 --> 00:59:46.570
back to the ballering World Cup. Yeah. uh to
00:59:46.570 --> 00:59:48.349
perform a little bit obviously i'm not going
00:59:48.349 --> 00:59:53.510
there just to show um and uh yeah i mean just
00:59:53.510 --> 00:59:56.409
basically world cup season and european championships
00:59:56.409 --> 00:59:59.610
it's a biggest con base here the european championship
00:59:59.610 --> 01:00:04.110
um i like to have a bit more stable results in
01:00:04.110 --> 01:00:10.949
a than i had before uh especially in lead i think
01:00:10.949 --> 01:00:16.159
i i i have the ability to to do a bit better
01:00:16.159 --> 01:00:18.820
in terms of results. I think I could be in finals
01:00:18.820 --> 01:00:22.940
more often. I think I could possibly get a bit
01:00:22.940 --> 01:00:26.500
more medals than I got last year. I would like
01:00:26.500 --> 01:00:31.920
to be a bit more stable in the results, yeah.
01:00:32.300 --> 01:00:37.340
And with you not being on the World Cup team
01:00:37.340 --> 01:00:40.340
for bouldering, is it because of your results
01:00:40.340 --> 01:00:42.780
from last season or do you guys have a selection?
01:00:43.670 --> 01:00:48.449
Both is we have selection process. It's a few
01:00:48.449 --> 01:00:50.929
people are pre selected from the last year results.
01:00:52.809 --> 01:00:56.210
I wasn't. And then if you're not, then you have
01:00:56.210 --> 01:01:00.070
to go through a French championships and selection
01:01:00.070 --> 01:01:03.530
comp. You have two comps. And yeah, you have
01:01:03.530 --> 01:01:05.989
it's like a mix those two and there's like a
01:01:05.989 --> 01:01:10.019
ranking and We had like three guys who were pre
01:01:10.019 --> 01:01:12.840
-selected this year. So as we have six pubs,
01:01:12.900 --> 01:01:16.039
the three first of the selection in French championships
01:01:16.039 --> 01:01:20.300
would go to World Cups. And I was in, so yeah.
01:01:20.960 --> 01:01:23.639
Okay, well, hopefully you can make it in this
01:01:23.639 --> 01:01:26.460
year later after European Championships. Yes.
01:01:28.139 --> 01:01:31.579
And then in terms of, I mean... not climbing
01:01:31.579 --> 01:01:34.139
obviously you spend a lot of time climbing even
01:01:34.139 --> 01:01:37.139
your whole family is like very climbing obsessed
01:01:37.139 --> 01:01:39.739
yes um is there anything you do outside of climbing
01:01:39.739 --> 01:01:43.980
or during your rest days yeah uh there are many
01:01:43.980 --> 01:01:48.019
things i really like uh i like spending time
01:01:48.019 --> 01:01:51.639
with my family also not necessarily about climbing
01:01:51.639 --> 01:01:55.099
i live in the same city with my like almost all
01:01:55.099 --> 01:02:01.030
my family from my mom's side lives here I play
01:02:01.030 --> 01:02:04.030
guitar also, classical guitar. I do this a lot.
01:02:05.110 --> 01:02:07.210
Probably when I have a rest day, I just do this
01:02:07.210 --> 01:02:13.349
all day. I try also to play before I go to training
01:02:13.349 --> 01:02:15.070
in the morning. What's the difference between
01:02:15.070 --> 01:02:19.949
classical guitar and other guitar? It's just
01:02:19.949 --> 01:02:26.150
a repertoire. And the guitar is a bit different.
01:02:29.079 --> 01:02:31.539
It's not a podcast about guitar, but you have
01:02:31.539 --> 01:02:34.840
like the... Oh, no scares, yeah. Some people
01:02:34.840 --> 01:02:37.400
like play electric. It's going to be all kind
01:02:37.400 --> 01:02:41.340
of electric kinds of... Like you can play rock,
01:02:41.360 --> 01:02:44.960
metal, jazz, stuff like this. You have acoustic,
01:02:45.059 --> 01:02:47.599
like playing songs or playing some blues or some
01:02:47.599 --> 01:02:50.199
country music. For example, we have like many,
01:02:50.280 --> 01:02:53.179
many stuff. And classical is just classical music
01:02:53.179 --> 01:02:59.340
and nylon strings. This classical guitar. Yeah.
01:02:59.579 --> 01:03:08.000
Metal. Okay. And the acoustic guitar is steel
01:03:08.000 --> 01:03:11.780
strings. Okay, gotcha. Yeah, Campbell Harrison
01:03:11.780 --> 01:03:15.139
had asked how your guitar slash music is going.
01:03:15.360 --> 01:03:18.739
Oh yeah, Campbell, I heard he was also playing.
01:03:19.019 --> 01:03:22.599
I saw a few videos of him. I think he plays acoustic.
01:03:23.000 --> 01:03:29.440
He's singing and playing. It's really going well,
01:03:29.460 --> 01:03:32.139
Campbell. Don't worry. You can check. Sometimes
01:03:32.139 --> 01:03:36.579
I post about it on my Instagram. I have a guitar
01:03:36.579 --> 01:03:40.119
account, actually. Oh, what? Yeah. I mean, I've
01:03:40.119 --> 01:03:42.900
only played guitar. I've tried it a little bit.
01:03:43.139 --> 01:03:47.739
Do the strings hurt your fingers again? No, it's
01:03:47.739 --> 01:03:53.519
okay. I mean, I think the classical guitar, as
01:03:53.519 --> 01:03:55.639
it has nylon strings, is a bit less aggressive.
01:03:56.440 --> 01:04:00.599
than the the acoustic but i mean yeah i'm fine
01:04:00.599 --> 01:04:03.360
i have like quite thick skin uh from climbing
01:04:03.360 --> 01:04:06.519
so it's okay i just don't i just try to play
01:04:06.519 --> 01:04:09.539
before because after training your fingers a
01:04:09.539 --> 01:04:14.000
little just like sure yeah shaking so you don't
01:04:14.000 --> 01:04:16.539
like try to avoid it before a comp or something
01:04:16.539 --> 01:04:19.599
like that no no before a comp is i i love to
01:04:19.599 --> 01:04:22.059
play before a comp because sometimes you have
01:04:22.059 --> 01:04:24.880
like this very long time you just don't have
01:04:24.880 --> 01:04:28.780
anything to do So, yeah, if I have a guitar,
01:04:28.940 --> 01:04:31.900
then I would just play. It's the best way to,
01:04:31.980 --> 01:04:36.800
yeah, just good pastime. And how long have you
01:04:36.800 --> 01:04:39.400
been doing that? I started playing when I was
01:04:39.400 --> 01:04:42.320
a kid, like maybe 10 years old. And then I played
01:04:42.320 --> 01:04:45.440
until I was like in the high school. Maybe I
01:04:45.440 --> 01:04:47.380
stopped playing for a few years when I was in
01:04:47.380 --> 01:04:49.320
high school because I didn't have time. And then
01:04:49.320 --> 01:04:51.550
after high school, I started playing again. Yeah.
01:04:51.630 --> 01:04:53.969
When I share out your information, I'll share
01:04:53.969 --> 01:04:58.469
out your Instagram as well. Sure. Sure. Okay.
01:04:58.530 --> 01:05:01.590
So let's move into some audience submitted questions.
01:05:01.750 --> 01:05:04.409
When your mom was climbing, the sport wasn't
01:05:04.409 --> 01:05:08.550
as professionalized yet. And so I guess now do
01:05:08.550 --> 01:05:11.869
you feel like there's a lot more avenue into
01:05:11.869 --> 01:05:13.630
making climbing a career? Like it's a lot more
01:05:13.630 --> 01:05:21.639
feasible? I mean, right now it depends. Also,
01:05:21.760 --> 01:05:24.420
like what country, which country you're from.
01:05:25.519 --> 01:05:29.860
Some countries make it a bit easier. In France,
01:05:29.940 --> 01:05:34.340
you still need to have like really, really good
01:05:34.340 --> 01:05:37.480
results in order to get to the point where you're
01:05:37.480 --> 01:05:40.460
professional. You don't have many professional
01:05:40.460 --> 01:05:45.199
climbers in France. No, no. I think, obviously,
01:05:45.360 --> 01:05:51.000
well, Mejdi, Orian, they're like... They're making
01:05:51.000 --> 01:05:59.280
more than enough money to survive. But I wouldn't
01:05:59.280 --> 01:06:07.539
say it's great. I can live off climbing. There's
01:06:07.539 --> 01:06:09.500
also one day you cannot do this your whole life
01:06:09.500 --> 01:06:14.980
until you're 60 years old. When I quit climbing,
01:06:15.019 --> 01:06:19.260
I'm going to have to work. uh i'm not making
01:06:19.260 --> 01:06:24.500
like much a lot of money i'm i'm living good
01:06:24.500 --> 01:06:29.159
with this also what happens a lot is that you
01:06:29.159 --> 01:06:31.019
when you have some sponsor and some help from
01:06:31.019 --> 01:06:34.980
the federation um you also don't really spend
01:06:34.980 --> 01:06:38.139
much money because a lot of things are like brought
01:06:38.139 --> 01:06:42.159
to you but you are like in my case i also don't
01:06:42.159 --> 01:06:45.300
make a crazy amount of money out of climbing
01:06:45.300 --> 01:06:48.420
yeah But I think in some countries you can do
01:06:48.420 --> 01:06:51.159
a bit more. I heard like Giovanni Plesci, he's
01:06:51.159 --> 01:06:53.119
staying at my place right now because he's training
01:06:53.119 --> 01:06:58.239
in Paris. And in Italy, they have a good support
01:06:58.239 --> 01:07:01.860
like from the police. Almost all of the athletes
01:07:01.860 --> 01:07:06.539
are policemen. So they have like a salary actually
01:07:06.539 --> 01:07:10.039
from the police. So you don't have that in France?
01:07:10.239 --> 01:07:13.719
We have that, but only a few people get it. We
01:07:13.719 --> 01:07:16.090
have from the army, yeah. I guess like going
01:07:16.090 --> 01:07:19.150
back to the future question, when you stop climbing,
01:07:19.469 --> 01:07:22.429
what do you think would be, like what work speaks
01:07:22.429 --> 01:07:24.690
to you after you're done competing? Was it like
01:07:24.690 --> 01:07:28.489
setting, coaching? Yeah, I have many things I'd
01:07:28.489 --> 01:07:32.530
like to do, but obviously I'm not going to have
01:07:32.530 --> 01:07:35.989
time for all of it. But like setting, I like
01:07:35.989 --> 01:07:38.869
it. I don't think I would make, I would work
01:07:38.869 --> 01:07:43.030
in this like in a gym. Maybe sometimes do some
01:07:43.030 --> 01:07:44.869
setting, but I don't think I would work into
01:07:44.869 --> 01:07:50.210
setting full -time. I probably won't like it.
01:07:50.429 --> 01:07:54.429
Coaching, why not? I also like it. Why not open
01:07:54.429 --> 01:07:56.610
a climbing gym? I would really like to have a
01:07:56.610 --> 01:08:00.130
climbing gym. I have also other stuff. I would
01:08:00.130 --> 01:08:06.610
like to play guitar more. If I have to step away
01:08:06.610 --> 01:08:10.699
from climbing for a while. I could. I could just
01:08:10.699 --> 01:08:13.599
play guitar for years. That's fine for me. I
01:08:13.599 --> 01:08:15.880
like also, let's say, carpentry. I could work
01:08:15.880 --> 01:08:19.220
into this. I like it. I went to school for carpentry.
01:08:19.399 --> 01:08:22.760
Oh, I had no idea. And I like it. I could work
01:08:22.760 --> 01:08:26.960
into this as well. But I hope it's not going
01:08:26.960 --> 01:08:31.159
to be like too soon. I'm only 25. I hope I still
01:08:31.159 --> 01:08:35.199
have like 5 to 10 years left. I would like, yeah.
01:08:35.500 --> 01:08:38.840
Maybe even longer, at least 42. Hopefully, yes.
01:08:39.300 --> 01:08:43.359
If my back pain doesn't get too bad. Oh, gosh.
01:08:43.539 --> 01:08:49.600
Yeah. Okay. Next one from Matt Gary 7. How to
01:08:49.600 --> 01:08:53.479
get finger strength. And then from what I had
01:08:53.479 --> 01:08:57.880
said earlier, he said at the end JTM. And I had
01:08:57.880 --> 01:09:00.479
to look up what that meant. I love you in French.
01:09:00.500 --> 01:09:03.239
Yeah. I thought that was cool. That was interesting.
01:09:03.520 --> 01:09:07.779
Who said that? Matt Gary underscore 7. Hello,
01:09:07.819 --> 01:09:12.920
Matt Curry. Yes. How to get finger strength?
01:09:15.220 --> 01:09:19.520
I think it also depends where you are in your
01:09:19.520 --> 01:09:22.619
climbing progress. If you're just starting, if
01:09:22.619 --> 01:09:26.060
you're in the first years of climbing, I wouldn't
01:09:26.060 --> 01:09:31.760
recommend training fingers too much or too hard,
01:09:31.779 --> 01:09:36.729
especially if you haven't climbed as a kid. your
01:09:36.729 --> 01:09:40.770
fingers are a bit like not very solid. So it's
01:09:40.770 --> 01:09:45.489
really easy to get injured. I think a good advice
01:09:45.489 --> 01:09:47.909
I could give is work with the physio because
01:09:47.909 --> 01:09:52.630
they know a lot more about the fingers and they
01:09:52.630 --> 01:09:55.510
know how to make it really progressive. Like
01:09:55.510 --> 01:09:58.750
let's say if you start to, you say, I want to
01:09:58.750 --> 01:10:00.729
train my fingers now and you start already to
01:10:00.729 --> 01:10:04.510
do like max hangs, stuff like this. If your fingers
01:10:04.510 --> 01:10:06.130
are not ready, you're going to get injured for
01:10:06.130 --> 01:10:09.829
sure. It's important to get really progressive.
01:10:10.470 --> 01:10:14.390
And if you already have like solid fingers stuff,
01:10:14.590 --> 01:10:17.449
if you're a good climber, been climbing for a
01:10:17.449 --> 01:10:23.489
while, what I do, I usually, let's say twice
01:10:23.489 --> 01:10:26.550
a week for a warmup at the end of my warmup.
01:10:26.590 --> 01:10:28.789
So I warm up my fingers properly. I'm like really
01:10:28.789 --> 01:10:33.289
warm. I do just two times. hanging one hand on
01:10:33.289 --> 01:10:37.630
a small crimp for about 10 seconds. Oh, that's
01:10:37.630 --> 01:10:40.390
pretty long. Yeah, well, you can do less and
01:10:40.390 --> 01:10:44.689
also on a bigger crimp. And just in the fingers,
01:10:44.789 --> 01:10:48.350
I do this for two times in a week, just two times.
01:10:48.390 --> 01:10:49.970
It's not really long. You know, it's the end
01:10:49.970 --> 01:10:53.350
of my warm -up. And for me, it makes my fingers
01:10:53.350 --> 01:10:58.510
solid and feeling good. And yeah, that's for
01:10:58.510 --> 01:11:01.170
me enough. Do you do handboard training? Only
01:11:01.170 --> 01:11:04.659
this. Okay. Yeah, I know a lot of pro climbers
01:11:04.659 --> 01:11:07.899
don't actually train much on the hangboard. I
01:11:07.899 --> 01:11:12.960
don't think many guys. Usually, we like to show
01:11:12.960 --> 01:11:15.720
off on the hangboard, but most of us just don't
01:11:15.720 --> 01:11:18.539
train on it. Really? From the climbing, we have
01:11:18.539 --> 01:11:21.399
strong fingers, so we can do hard stuff on the
01:11:21.399 --> 01:11:23.859
hangboard. We didn't really train the hangboard
01:11:23.859 --> 01:11:27.119
much. Okay. It's really good for a warm -up.
01:11:27.460 --> 01:11:31.960
I use it for a warm -up. It's good to feel. strong
01:11:31.960 --> 01:11:35.220
and and not to hurt yourself but for training
01:11:35.220 --> 01:11:39.659
um yeah i don't do much yet like i said just
01:11:39.659 --> 01:11:42.560
the two hangs like sometimes okay so most of
01:11:42.560 --> 01:11:44.279
your like finger strength actually just comes
01:11:44.279 --> 01:11:46.680
from climbing on the wall yes i feel like a lot
01:11:46.680 --> 01:11:49.520
of people are tricked by the uh the showing off
01:11:49.520 --> 01:11:53.010
videos Definitely. Like you see a lot of guys
01:11:53.010 --> 01:11:54.989
that are showing up, they're doing like some
01:11:54.989 --> 01:11:58.029
hangs on 10 millimeters. But this, if we post
01:11:58.029 --> 01:12:00.310
a video about this, we do it like, let's say
01:12:00.310 --> 01:12:03.210
once or twice a year. It's just so painful. You
01:12:03.210 --> 01:12:05.590
don't want to do it. It's just when you have
01:12:05.590 --> 01:12:07.430
like the good skin, you're feeling good. You're
01:12:07.430 --> 01:12:09.909
like, you say, okay, let's do it now. So I don't
01:12:09.909 --> 01:12:13.949
have to do it again. But I don't think most people
01:12:13.949 --> 01:12:17.789
do that much hangs on the small crimps. It's
01:12:17.789 --> 01:12:21.010
just really painful. Okay, so that's the dirty
01:12:21.010 --> 01:12:24.229
secrets of pro climbers on Instagram. Yeah, yeah.
01:12:24.529 --> 01:12:28.189
Don't listen to what they say. Okay, interesting.
01:12:28.430 --> 01:12:31.569
Good to know. I'm going to post that one. Okay,
01:12:31.649 --> 01:12:36.029
last question from Shining711. What's your go
01:12:36.029 --> 01:12:38.930
-to recovery routine? Oh, you know. Shining is
01:12:38.930 --> 01:12:44.829
a volunteer from China World Cups. Oh, yeah.
01:12:44.909 --> 01:12:49.390
Awesome. He accompanied me to the anti -doping
01:12:49.390 --> 01:12:54.550
test. He's the guy. So I know him. Shining. What's
01:12:54.550 --> 01:12:57.149
the question? Yeah. What's your go -to recovery
01:12:57.149 --> 01:12:59.770
routine after climbing? Any secret tips you swear
01:12:59.770 --> 01:13:03.810
by? Sleep. Sleep a lot. Sleep as early as you
01:13:03.810 --> 01:13:10.409
can is the best way to get fresh. How many hours
01:13:10.409 --> 01:13:16.710
do you get? Depends. sometimes for a while I
01:13:16.710 --> 01:13:20.770
can sleep early I can maintain it sometimes I
01:13:20.770 --> 01:13:24.670
can't I don't know like motivation or stuff I
01:13:24.670 --> 01:13:27.390
try if I'm really motivated I can go sleep at
01:13:27.390 --> 01:13:32.149
like 10 .30 and I wake up at like I don't know
01:13:32.149 --> 01:13:37.029
maybe 7 7, 8 if I'm not really that motivated
01:13:37.029 --> 01:13:39.670
I would go to sleep a bit later and wake up also
01:13:39.670 --> 01:13:43.890
a bit later I try to sleep Yeah, nine. Let's
01:13:43.890 --> 01:13:47.390
see. Nine hours. That's good. Nice. Sleeping
01:13:47.390 --> 01:13:52.149
is the most important. Eating as well right after
01:13:52.149 --> 01:13:55.090
the session if you have something to snack. As
01:13:55.090 --> 01:13:57.010
soon as you finish the session, you have to,
01:13:57.010 --> 01:14:01.949
like, right now after the session, it's really
01:14:01.949 --> 01:14:05.670
important to eat. Then you can do all sort of
01:14:05.670 --> 01:14:09.590
massage stuff like this if you have the time.
01:14:09.689 --> 01:14:13.460
It feels good. I don't know if it feels good.
01:14:13.520 --> 01:14:16.279
I don't know if it's really helping, but it feels
01:14:16.279 --> 01:14:19.800
good. Also, physio is nice, but I know that most
01:14:19.800 --> 01:14:23.140
people don't have access to physio that often,
01:14:23.220 --> 01:14:26.699
but I go to see my physio almost once a week.
01:14:26.720 --> 01:14:29.640
Every time I go, I do some massage and stuff.
01:14:30.000 --> 01:14:32.460
Yeah, in terms of nutrition, I'm just thinking
01:14:32.460 --> 01:14:35.979
about this now. I think in America, we've been...
01:14:36.300 --> 01:14:39.300
on a big, like everyone across the country has
01:14:39.300 --> 01:14:42.199
been big on protein snacks and now everything
01:14:42.199 --> 01:14:45.640
has protein in it. Is that global? Like, are
01:14:45.640 --> 01:14:50.340
you guys, is everything protein infused? I think
01:14:50.340 --> 01:14:53.420
I know some people also here in France who are
01:14:53.420 --> 01:14:55.960
like crazy about protein. Because we have protein
01:14:55.960 --> 01:14:58.960
everything, like protein popcorn, protein chips.
01:14:59.100 --> 01:15:02.720
Yeah. I hate those because they feel heavy. Okay.
01:15:02.840 --> 01:15:06.479
I don't like eating the... protein stuff but
01:15:06.479 --> 01:15:10.600
i know um for example when i stay with like let's
01:15:10.600 --> 01:15:13.899
say mejdi or samuel they're really careful about
01:15:13.899 --> 01:15:17.239
getting some protein which i think is important
01:15:17.239 --> 01:15:24.819
but if you it's like normally healthy you get
01:15:24.819 --> 01:15:27.619
the amount you need i mean i don't i'm not really
01:15:27.619 --> 01:15:31.340
careful about what i eat and i think it's okay
01:15:31.960 --> 01:15:35.800
uh just yeah to eat healthy try to eat a bit
01:15:35.800 --> 01:15:38.340
of everything some vegetables some meat some
01:15:38.340 --> 01:15:42.079
not yeah not too fat not not too sweet i mean
01:15:42.079 --> 01:15:47.340
obviously if you have good habits it's okay so
01:15:47.340 --> 01:15:49.439
you're not like pounding protein shakes like
01:15:49.439 --> 01:15:54.550
a body no no no i i but it's i think it's Mostly
01:15:54.550 --> 01:15:57.569
about the taste. I just don't like it, so I don't
01:15:57.569 --> 01:15:59.909
like it. I wouldn't say it's bad. I actually
01:15:59.909 --> 01:16:02.409
don't know. Good to know. Well, I think that's
01:16:02.409 --> 01:16:04.390
all the questions I had for today then. Thank
01:16:04.390 --> 01:16:06.229
you for joining. Want to let people know where
01:16:06.229 --> 01:16:08.510
they can find you and your guitar Instagram?
01:16:08.850 --> 01:16:11.029
Find me, Instagram, easy. My name is just Sam.
01:16:11.649 --> 01:16:16.489
That's my name. Do people really want to see
01:16:16.489 --> 01:16:18.489
the guitar account? I'm not sure. Of course,
01:16:18.510 --> 01:16:23.819
I think so. My name is Polonia Samich. Is there
01:16:23.819 --> 01:16:27.250
a reasoning behind that name? It just has been
01:16:27.250 --> 01:16:30.609
my name when I made it to the youth team and
01:16:30.609 --> 01:16:33.369
people just were calling me this way. Well, I
01:16:33.369 --> 01:16:35.670
will add that in the description below so people
01:16:35.670 --> 01:16:38.890
can find you there. And yeah, thank you again.
01:16:38.949 --> 01:16:40.689
It was amazing to talk to you. Yeah, thank you.
01:16:40.829 --> 01:16:43.369
Thank you so much for making it to the end of
01:16:43.369 --> 01:16:45.810
the podcast. Don't forget to like and subscribe
01:16:45.810 --> 01:16:48.890
if you enjoyed. Otherwise, you are a super fake
01:16:48.890 --> 01:16:51.710
climber. If you're listening on a podcasting
01:16:51.710 --> 01:16:53.850
platform, I'd appreciate if you rate it five
01:16:53.850 --> 01:16:56.180
stars and... you can continue the discussion
01:16:56.180 --> 01:16:59.340
on the free competition climbing discord linked
01:16:59.340 --> 01:17:01.779
in the description. Thanks again for listening.
