50: Hannes Van Duysen, Slab King

Written By Jinni Xia

You may have heard of him as the slab master, but Hannes is a climber on Team Belgium who just recently got silver in boulder at Arco Rockmasters and also won a bronze in Innsbruck this past 2025 season! In this episode, we’ll go over his 2025 season, get his tips on slab climbing, and learn about how he tries to stay in the right mindset during stressful competitions.

Timestamps

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:12 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

1:56 - Elbow surgery!

4:20 - Rockmasters reflection

10:55 - Getting into climbing and competing

15:27 - Transitioning out of youth comps

17:24 - 2025 season reflection

22:41 - Comps are going back to old-school climbs

26:08 - Instagram influencing world cups

28:44 - Staying in shape throughout a long competition season

32:10 - Lead vs boulder preference

35:43 - Training schedule + lifting vs gaining weight

43:12 - Pressure being the slab master

47:31 - Top slab tips

49:45 - The fickle mental game of comps

52:58 - Power of visualization for mindset

56:55 - The backflip of anger!!

1:00:16 - Taking his driving test

1:05:03 - 2026 goals

1:06:44 - AUDIENCE Q: What is the language situation in team Belgium?

1:09:37 - AUDIENCE Q: Do you think calisthenics/gymnastics is necessary now in comp climbing?

1:11:35 - AUDIENCE Q: How to stay calm during competitions?

1:16:43 - Words of wisdom + where to find Hannes

  • WEBVTT

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    Every time we go to the slab, like, you know,

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    there are always some guys who are like, yeah,

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    yeah, the slab master. And it immediately gives

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    like the stress, like, okay, fuck, now I have

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    to do good, you know. You're just like full of

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    this adrenaline and you don't know what to do

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    with your body anymore. So just things happen

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    like randomly. Okay, that's maybe bad to say

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    when you want to help somebody. probably you're

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    not gonna break your foot so welcome to another

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    episode of the that's not real climbing podcast

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    i'm your host Jinni and i'm excited to introduce

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    my guest for today Hannes van duysen you may have

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    heard of him as the slab master but hanes is

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    a climber on team belgium who just recently got

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    silver and boulder at arco rock masters and also

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    won a bronze in innsbruck this past 2025 season

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    In this episode, we'll go over his 2025 season,

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    get his tips on slab climbing, and learn about

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    how he tries to stay in the right mindset during

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    stressful competitions. I hope you enjoy this

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    interview with Hannes. Please pardon this brief

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    intermission, but I'm excited to talk about Mad

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    Now, back to the show. Yeah, I'm back at home.

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    I mean, I traveled quite a bit. Some places,

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    I went to a holiday also with my parents. And

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    yeah, now I'm back at home in Brussels. Back

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    at home for a while, back into like regular winter

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    training. Yeah, I mean, I'm injured. Like I had

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    the surgery on my elbow. What? Wait, when was

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    that? So like, yeah, I had some kind of problem

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    with my elbow already for some time. And so now

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    we decided to do a surgery. I mean, surgery is

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    already planned for quite some months, but I

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    just had to wait until the season was finished

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    so I could just like end the season. And yeah,

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    so now it's just rehab. Like it's only six weeks

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    of not climbing, hopefully, but yeah, then I

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    have to go. very slowly so yeah i hope it'll

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    all be okay for the next season wow okay well

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    it's good that it was planned at least yeah yeah

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    it was not like randomly surgery no it was what

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    was the issue like what caused the elbow issues

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    to begin with so if i understood it good it was

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    um like a piece of a cartilage that um kind of

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    broke off and i was just like being there in

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    the And my elbow. And the problem was, first

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    of all, it hurted for me, especially while warming

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    up. And also it could give problems if it gets

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    worse and worse, the injury. It could start blocking

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    my elbow, my movement. I want to stretch it and

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    at one moment it blocks. Actually, I already

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    had that when I was young because it's already

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    the second time I had this surgery. So just to

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    avoid that, I... Yeah, I did the surgery. Did

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    that like affect your season at all, you think?

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    No, I don't think so. For me, it was especially

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    during warming up that I felt it. So once I,

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    I mean, for some times, especially when I trained

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    hard or I did like multiple days in a row or

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    I felt tired, it hurt it like even more. But

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    for the rest, once I'm warmed up, actually, it's

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    quite fine. So yeah, it's only during the warming

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    up. So it never really bothered me during the

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    climbing competitions or something. That's good.

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    Well, hopefully you heal up okay and training

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    isn't too difficult for you after. No, it'll

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    be fine for sure. Okay, so then going back to,

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    I guess, a bit of your more recent travels, how

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    was Rockmasters? Congrats on getting silver and

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    bouldering. That was cool to see. Yeah, thank

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    you. um yeah it was super cool i mean uh i was

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    pretty stressed because the format it's like

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    like both formats only like uh also the lead

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    um like both is only like one shot like in a

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    dual and since i'm not really used to do like

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    a dual in speed or like ko bouldering where you

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    have only three tries for a boulder it's like

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    it's like a bit stressful but in the end like

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    when i look back on the comp like I think there

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    was like no reason to be stressed. And during

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    the comp, I actually had like so much fun. So

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    no, it was like so cool to do like again. Also

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    being in ARCO, it's so amazing. I was also there

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    with Heloise, like one of our team. And yeah,

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    with her, it was also super fun to be there.

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    So yeah, it was a really nice experience. Yeah.

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    Have you not done the format before? No, I did.

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    Yeah, I did. I'm a pretty competitive person,

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    so I always want to do good. So whatever competition

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    I do, I always get kind of stressed. Except for

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    World Cups, I kind of learn how to control the

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    stress. But yeah, on comps, I take it a bit easier

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    when I'm not going all -in for a win or preparing

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    myself 100 % mentally to perform. Like if I don't

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    do that, like I don't really get the stress under

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    control and I feel a bit more stressed. So for

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    this kind of comps, I felt a bit stressed. Weird.

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    So you're saying that you feel less stressed

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    for World Cups than it's like other... Yeah,

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    you know, like, no, it makes a bit of, yeah,

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    maybe it doesn't make sense. But for me, it's

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    like you kind of like your routine, how you like

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    prepare for the comp, like on the day itself,

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    like also the preparation, like for the comp,

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    like... I know exactly what to do and I make

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    sure I do exactly everything in the right order

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    that I want. And I make sure there are no mistakes

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    allowed, like in my mental preparation. So for

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    me, everything is quite calm at that moment because

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    I know, I know the plan in my head, what's going

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    to happen. And when I don't do that, like for

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    example, at the rock masters, like I just let

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    everything a bit more be like this, you know,

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    like if. I'm not going to do my breathing exercises

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    or make sure to check everything to be ready

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    for it. So it's all more chill. So that means

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    that I'm less in this competition mode. And then

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    it makes me a bit more stressed for the competition

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    itself because I don't try to keep it under control.

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    Okay, that's good to know. I mean, we'll get

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    into mindset a bit later too. So yeah, I think

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    that'll be good. I'm glad that you have a whole

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    routine worked out. That's really good to hear.

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    I guess just in terms of competition format,

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    how did you like the format compared to World

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    Cup format? I prefer the World Cup format because

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    I prefer to be limited in time than being limited

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    in tries. Because limited in tries, for me, it

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    adds more pressure. If you do it in time, I mean,

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    in one minute, you can easily put like, especially

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    for coordination, you can put five tries or something.

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    So if you're limited in tries, then like every

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    try, it feels like it counts more. So I think

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    I still prefer the World Cup format, but still

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    like I quite enjoyed it to do it like once because

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    it's different. So we don't always have to do

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    the same. It also pushes you a bit more to do

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    maybe harder boulders since you can try them

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    in advance. In Arco, we had like 50 minutes.

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    I think it was 50 minutes to try the boulders

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    in advance. Wow, really? I had no idea about

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    that. Yeah, that was in the morning. So it's

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    like kind of a workout, which 50 minutes is not

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    a lot. Actually, it's less than 15 minutes a

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    boulder. It feels like it goes really fast, these

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    50 minutes, especially when the balls are hard.

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    For me, it was like 50 minutes almost of non

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    -stop climbing. It was pretty hard, but it's

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    pretty fun to do because you kind of get a bit

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    the same as on World Cups. You're a bit in time

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    pressure, but it's different because you know

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    you have a bit more. It's not like it's less.

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    Less strategy. It's more like trying and trying

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    and trying. And also you can watch each other.

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    So it's like a session together. So it's pretty

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    fun to do. Huh. Okay. I didn't know that people

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    got to try the boulders beforehand. So does anyone

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    like send the boulder beforehand and then like

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    redo it after? Yeah, I think most of the people,

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    I mean, I could do all the boulders during the,

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    I mean, no, I didn't do all the boulders. No,

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    but. Usually, it depends from boulder to boulder.

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    Some you stand, some you're like, okay, I did

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    this move, I did this move, so I'm just going

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    to leave it like this and I'm going to try the

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    other one because 50 minutes, it goes so fast.

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    You really don't have time to try too much. But

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    yeah, there are quite some people who do boulders,

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    but also they change sometimes the boulders.

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    afterwards for example like the slab nobody actually

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    did the moves so they changed the boulder made

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    it a bit easier so we will be able to get through

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    it or like the first boulder we kind of They

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    did it on a different way, I think. And also

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    that they changed, like it depends from situation.

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    Like sometimes it changes because they want you

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    to force it to do it the way or sometimes they

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    make it easier. Sometimes a bit harder. So it

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    depends. Oh, wow. I had no idea. It's also a

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    bit stressful, you know, because you try the

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    boulder for 50 minutes. You're like, okay, this

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    boulder I can do. And then they put it a bit

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    further or they add a hold or they put away a

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    hold. And you're like, oh, fuck. Now I have to

    00:10:29.929 --> 00:10:32.360

    do like. something else or something or it's

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    a bit different so it's also kind of stressful

    00:10:34.480 --> 00:10:37.559

    yeah no i totally get that and i guess it also

    00:10:37.559 --> 00:10:40.519

    makes more sense now because yeah people were

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    doing like coordination moves a lot faster than

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    i expected yeah exactly flashes and i was like

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    wow i can't believe everyone flashed that that's

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    crazy yeah we tried before Okay, good to know.

    00:10:52.539 --> 00:10:54.759

    Maybe if I had listened to like an intro, I would

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    have known that. But that was good to learn right

    00:10:57.120 --> 00:11:00.840

    now. Okay, cool. So then getting into your background,

    00:11:01.100 --> 00:11:03.440

    how did you start climbing and competing in general?

    00:11:04.320 --> 00:11:09.720

    Yeah, so I'm not from a climbing family. I got

    00:11:09.720 --> 00:11:13.139

    a bit into climbing with a bit of luck. Like

    00:11:13.139 --> 00:11:17.460

    my parents, before my seventh birthday, I did

    00:11:17.460 --> 00:11:20.220

    like a lot of other sports. classic like football

    00:11:20.220 --> 00:11:24.259

    uh soccer since you're from america yeah oh thanks

    00:11:24.259 --> 00:11:27.639

    thank you yeah so i did soccer i was like swimming

    00:11:27.639 --> 00:11:30.480

    i was doing some other things tennis i think

    00:11:30.480 --> 00:11:34.740

    too um and then for my seventh birthday oh yeah

    00:11:34.740 --> 00:11:37.460

    maybe most important was gymnastics because i

    00:11:37.460 --> 00:11:41.440

    did this like um until my seventh and i actually

    00:11:41.440 --> 00:11:44.240

    got kicked out when i was seven because yeah

    00:11:44.240 --> 00:11:47.000

    it's Pretty young to kick somebody out from a

    00:11:47.000 --> 00:11:51.960

    gymnastic team. But apparently it was quite professional

    00:11:51.960 --> 00:11:53.899

    already or something. I don't know. I never really

    00:11:53.899 --> 00:11:57.860

    took time to understand it all. But my shoulder

    00:11:57.860 --> 00:12:01.539

    mobility was not good enough. So they said, I

    00:12:01.539 --> 00:12:04.259

    think it was the reason that maybe I could get

    00:12:04.259 --> 00:12:08.419

    injured too fast if I will do gymnastics. So,

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    I mean, on high level then, I guess. So, yeah,

    00:12:12.240 --> 00:12:15.879

    they said. Yeah, you don't have to come back

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    anymore. So yeah, then I had to search for another

    00:12:20.340 --> 00:12:24.759

    sport. Yeah, I started climbing at the age of

    00:12:24.759 --> 00:12:27.100

    seven because then my parents, they took me to

    00:12:27.100 --> 00:12:30.259

    the climbing gym like for my birthday. And yeah,

    00:12:30.259 --> 00:12:33.019

    that's how I started. Like I started in like

    00:12:33.019 --> 00:12:38.210

    a really old school, like still until... Today,

    00:12:38.230 --> 00:12:40.669

    it's the most old school gym I've ever seen.

    00:12:40.850 --> 00:12:44.830

    I mean, now it's already gone. Like they broke

    00:12:44.830 --> 00:12:47.330

    it up and they built a whole new gym. But it

    00:12:47.330 --> 00:12:49.889

    was like this copy rock, like really good balls.

    00:12:50.110 --> 00:12:53.009

    And it was really cool. And you always had to

    00:12:53.009 --> 00:12:55.610

    climb out. It was like a bit like Fontainebleau,

    00:12:55.669 --> 00:12:57.470

    like the structures was really cool actually.

    00:12:57.750 --> 00:13:00.529

    And then after that, how did you, when did you

    00:13:00.529 --> 00:13:04.639

    get into competitions? So yeah, this... this

    00:13:04.639 --> 00:13:08.120

    gym it um yeah stopped already after the first

    00:13:08.120 --> 00:13:10.960

    two years i climbed so i mean it stopped it built

    00:13:10.960 --> 00:13:13.879

    a new gym which there was also leads so then

    00:13:13.879 --> 00:13:18.960

    i kind of got more into lead climbing um and

    00:13:18.960 --> 00:13:21.980

    that's how i just started it like what i was

    00:13:21.980 --> 00:13:25.379

    just in this like this team uh where we're just

    00:13:25.379 --> 00:13:27.139

    climbing for fun and then they were like yep

    00:13:27.139 --> 00:13:30.429

    there was like a competition like there Like

    00:13:30.429 --> 00:13:32.710

    you want to go, it was like me climbing, I mean,

    00:13:32.750 --> 00:13:34.429

    top rope at that moment because I was too young

    00:13:34.429 --> 00:13:39.730

    to do it. And yeah, I went there and yeah, I

    00:13:39.730 --> 00:13:44.549

    won. And then my parents, they looked on internet,

    00:13:44.629 --> 00:13:46.710

    like what kind of combat it was. And it appeared

    00:13:46.710 --> 00:13:50.149

    to be like a, like a Belgium cup. And then they

    00:13:50.149 --> 00:13:52.429

    were, I mean, I think, no, it was not my parents.

    00:13:52.470 --> 00:13:54.429

    I think it was my granddad. Like my granddad

    00:13:54.429 --> 00:13:58.110

    is really into, into like my career. So it's

    00:13:58.110 --> 00:14:01.190

    quite funny. He like looked it up and he was

    00:14:01.190 --> 00:14:03.389

    like, okay, there is still like another one there

    00:14:03.389 --> 00:14:05.830

    and there and there. And yeah, that's here. I

    00:14:05.830 --> 00:14:09.269

    just went all over Belgium. It's not that big,

    00:14:09.370 --> 00:14:12.750

    but I just went all to all the Belgian clubs

    00:14:12.750 --> 00:14:15.610

    and I just, I think I almost won them all. So

    00:14:15.610 --> 00:14:18.509

    yeah, that's how we got into, yeah, into the

    00:14:18.509 --> 00:14:22.710

    competitions. And then you just learn automatically

    00:14:22.710 --> 00:14:25.909

    like, okay, there is also a Belgium team. So

    00:14:25.909 --> 00:14:29.019

    in like, I think back then it wasn't like. four

    00:14:29.019 --> 00:14:31.240

    years i can select for that and then i can go

    00:14:31.240 --> 00:14:34.419

    to the international comps and yeah that's how

    00:14:34.419 --> 00:14:38.200

    i that's how i started it all wow it seems like

    00:14:38.200 --> 00:14:40.259

    it almost kind of came naturally to you i feel

    00:14:40.259 --> 00:14:42.620

    like a lot of people i hear like their first

    00:14:42.620 --> 00:14:45.240

    competition ever they get like last place or

    00:14:45.240 --> 00:14:48.139

    something yeah yeah no yeah it was yeah i mean

    00:14:48.139 --> 00:14:51.220

    belgium it's it's also for sure back then it

    00:14:51.220 --> 00:14:53.720

    was even less like climbing is not the biggest

    00:14:53.720 --> 00:14:58.379

    sport in our country um so yeah it was not a

    00:14:58.379 --> 00:15:00.759

    lot of people did it but uh but yeah still was

    00:15:00.759 --> 00:15:04.940

    was pretty cool to do like it to like start with

    00:15:04.940 --> 00:15:06.940

    i mean pretty cool like yeah i started winning

    00:15:06.940 --> 00:15:09.960

    right from the beginning but yeah then you eventually

    00:15:09.960 --> 00:15:13.580

    you learn that yeah the belgium cups are not

    00:15:13.580 --> 00:15:15.740

    like the biggest thing there is because then

    00:15:15.740 --> 00:15:18.539

    once you go to the first like european competition

    00:15:18.539 --> 00:15:21.259

    like you immediately get like shut down and now

    00:15:21.259 --> 00:15:24.549

    so i ended up like last place somewhere so Yeah,

    00:15:24.590 --> 00:15:27.029

    everyone starts from somewhere. Yeah, exactly.

    00:15:27.830 --> 00:15:30.450

    I guess along those lines, how was transitioning

    00:15:30.450 --> 00:15:34.090

    out of youth competitions into real World Cups?

    00:15:34.450 --> 00:15:40.210

    Yeah, my first Adults' Cup, it was, I think,

    00:15:40.210 --> 00:15:45.950

    in 2021. I think I started in the European Cups.

    00:15:47.350 --> 00:15:50.409

    And the week after, I did my first World Cup

    00:15:50.409 --> 00:15:56.809

    in Marion, Didn't go very good. I think I almost,

    00:15:56.889 --> 00:16:00.870

    I ended up almost lost. I think like I was, yeah,

    00:16:01.029 --> 00:16:04.029

    it was, I spent six hours in isolation because

    00:16:04.029 --> 00:16:06.370

    I was very lost. And I think it was one of the

    00:16:06.370 --> 00:16:09.490

    World Cups that I think until now, like one of

    00:16:09.490 --> 00:16:11.870

    the most participants that there ever been, like

    00:16:11.870 --> 00:16:16.090

    I think like 120 or something in total. And I

    00:16:16.090 --> 00:16:19.409

    was the last one to climb. So yeah, I spent so

    00:16:19.409 --> 00:16:23.830

    much time in isolation. just to do like two zones

    00:16:23.830 --> 00:16:25.850

    and that's it like for the rest like falling

    00:16:25.850 --> 00:16:29.129

    off first moves every time and yeah I got like

    00:16:29.129 --> 00:16:32.029

    80 first plays or something actually I have it

    00:16:32.029 --> 00:16:34.710

    pulled up you got 79th so if that's out of 120

    00:16:34.710 --> 00:16:38.190

    that's not bad no okay yeah I think it was much

    00:16:38.190 --> 00:16:41.509

    much worse but but yeah so that was my first

    00:16:41.509 --> 00:16:44.009

    world cup like I got shut down like quite bad

    00:16:44.009 --> 00:16:49.509

    and I remember also the coach he also said like

    00:16:49.509 --> 00:16:52.919

    yeah I don't think you're ready yet for the world

    00:16:52.919 --> 00:16:56.139

    cup level but that's okay like and yeah i was

    00:16:56.139 --> 00:16:58.639

    like okay yeah i understand it's it's true like

    00:16:58.639 --> 00:17:04.259

    if i see my results um also that year i um i

    00:17:04.259 --> 00:17:06.400

    started doing lead two and it was kind of the

    00:17:06.400 --> 00:17:08.960

    same story like it never really went good in

    00:17:08.960 --> 00:17:12.500

    the beginning and so yeah but in the end i just

    00:17:12.500 --> 00:17:15.220

    kept trying and trying and and it worked out

    00:17:15.220 --> 00:17:18.299

    so yeah it's it's good to see the growth at least

    00:17:18.299 --> 00:17:22.069

    yeah Yeah, let's go into, I guess, like the World

    00:17:22.069 --> 00:17:26.069

    Cup season that you had this year. I think, yeah,

    00:17:26.130 --> 00:17:28.529

    I mean, congrats on a great 2025 season. I think

    00:17:28.529 --> 00:17:31.430

    your results this year were better than any other

    00:17:31.430 --> 00:17:34.329

    year before. Yeah, it was. Yeah, for sure. Awesome.

    00:17:34.349 --> 00:17:36.569

    Yeah. So what do you think changed in your training

    00:17:36.569 --> 00:17:38.970

    that helped you perform better this year? What

    00:17:38.970 --> 00:17:41.569

    changed in my training? I don't know. It's hard

    00:17:41.569 --> 00:17:44.069

    to say what really changed in my training. I

    00:17:44.069 --> 00:17:45.990

    stick with the same coach. Like I know it's the

    00:17:45.990 --> 00:17:50.009

    same team. I also didn't do a lot of seasons

    00:17:50.009 --> 00:17:52.970

    yet because with the Olympic year, like I didn't

    00:17:52.970 --> 00:17:57.009

    do, I only did one or two World Cups last year.

    00:17:57.089 --> 00:17:58.829

    And then the year before was kind of my first

    00:17:58.829 --> 00:18:03.750

    year I was like competing for finals. But yeah,

    00:18:03.809 --> 00:18:08.109

    I think it's kind of natural to like, when you

    00:18:08.109 --> 00:18:11.630

    grow up to see your mistakes and it's a bit easier

    00:18:11.630 --> 00:18:14.250

    to adapt because you have like more knowledge

    00:18:14.250 --> 00:18:18.309

    and you start to see. what are your weaknesses

    00:18:18.309 --> 00:18:22.170

    like for me i feel like it's still like coordination

    00:18:22.170 --> 00:18:26.490

    and also a bit of like the strategy in in the

    00:18:26.490 --> 00:18:30.390

    five minutes so i kind of also now i'm still

    00:18:30.390 --> 00:18:33.730

    i'm already thinking to how can i improve in

    00:18:33.730 --> 00:18:36.430

    coordinations like what are the what are really

    00:18:36.430 --> 00:18:38.950

    my mistakes in coordinations and what are also

    00:18:38.950 --> 00:18:42.769

    my mistakes for inside five minutes so i kind

    00:18:42.769 --> 00:18:46.630

    of feel like right now I've got, like, a good

    00:18:46.630 --> 00:18:50.109

    level in, like, most of the styles in the World

    00:18:50.109 --> 00:18:52.769

    Cup, but it's more now, like, putting it into

    00:18:52.769 --> 00:18:57.930

    the five minutes. So I think, like, it's very

    00:18:57.930 --> 00:19:01.650

    important for the first years to, like, focus

    00:19:01.650 --> 00:19:05.410

    on, like, having the level to do the boulders.

    00:19:05.450 --> 00:19:08.970

    And then once I think you have the level, I think

    00:19:08.970 --> 00:19:12.490

    the... I mean, it's my opinion. It's more important

    00:19:12.490 --> 00:19:17.490

    to start focusing on how to top the boulders

    00:19:17.490 --> 00:19:19.769

    in five minutes because I feel like it's something

    00:19:19.769 --> 00:19:24.630

    else to train. I hope you're getting what I tried

    00:19:24.630 --> 00:19:27.930

    to say because it's more like strategy -wise,

    00:19:28.029 --> 00:19:31.049

    you kind of have to know what decisions to make.

    00:19:31.230 --> 00:19:33.789

    So you kind of feel like now you have your strength

    00:19:33.789 --> 00:19:37.269

    base down and it's more focusing on the techniques

    00:19:37.269 --> 00:19:41.880

    or strategies. Yeah, it's a bit like this. Now

    00:19:41.880 --> 00:19:45.220

    that I have the level to do them, now I kind

    00:19:45.220 --> 00:19:49.700

    of have to focus more on knowing how to handle

    00:19:49.700 --> 00:19:54.759

    situations in the five minutes, especially for

    00:19:54.759 --> 00:19:59.019

    coordinations or decision -making on slabs. It's

    00:19:59.019 --> 00:20:04.640

    a very hard game. I feel like topping boulders

    00:20:04.640 --> 00:20:08.730

    almost on your limits in five minutes. You don't

    00:20:08.730 --> 00:20:11.410

    necessarily need the highest level of topping

    00:20:11.410 --> 00:20:14.690

    boulders. You just need a very high level of

    00:20:14.690 --> 00:20:17.670

    like being able to do them in five minutes. It's

    00:20:17.670 --> 00:20:19.369

    kind of something else. It's hard to explain.

    00:20:19.609 --> 00:20:21.970

    Yeah, I mean, thinking back on the season, do

    00:20:21.970 --> 00:20:24.470

    you remember or like did any boulders stand out

    00:20:24.470 --> 00:20:26.609

    to you? Either ones where you maybe surprised

    00:20:26.609 --> 00:20:30.309

    yourself on how you performed or ones that you

    00:20:30.309 --> 00:20:33.210

    just really enjoyed? Yeah, I definitely have

    00:20:33.210 --> 00:20:38.640

    boulders where I surprised myself. I feel like

    00:20:38.640 --> 00:20:41.440

    physically I got a lot stronger. Like I started

    00:20:41.440 --> 00:20:43.960

    topping more like the hard physical boulders

    00:20:43.960 --> 00:20:47.779

    or not topping, but like getting like good tries

    00:20:47.779 --> 00:20:52.359

    on that. So I'm very happy with that. And it's

    00:20:52.359 --> 00:20:55.880

    very nice to see that, yeah, that I'm getting

    00:20:55.880 --> 00:20:59.960

    physically stronger because I think it's my favorite

    00:20:59.960 --> 00:21:02.480

    style. I think a lot of people like just the

    00:21:02.480 --> 00:21:06.299

    physical boulder. So it's very nice to... to

    00:21:06.299 --> 00:21:09.019

    see that I'm also getting like one of the stronger

    00:21:09.019 --> 00:21:14.859

    competitors, like physically. I think for sure

    00:21:14.859 --> 00:21:17.839

    the boulder that surprised me the most was probably

    00:21:17.839 --> 00:21:20.819

    like there was like this coordination semifinal

    00:21:20.819 --> 00:21:25.160

    in Bern, like the first boulder, which started

    00:21:25.160 --> 00:21:28.079

    off with like, it was full coordination. And

    00:21:28.079 --> 00:21:31.720

    in my head, I was like, okay, I'm not the best.

    00:21:32.059 --> 00:21:34.720

    and coordination so coordination is always going

    00:21:34.720 --> 00:21:37.980

    always being a bit hard I think the first move

    00:21:37.980 --> 00:21:40.819

    was kind of the easier move and then the last

    00:21:40.819 --> 00:21:43.339

    coordination was kind of the harder coordination

    00:21:43.339 --> 00:21:46.839

    and I struggled a bit on the first move but once

    00:21:46.839 --> 00:21:49.440

    I passed it like I flashed the last coordination

    00:21:49.440 --> 00:21:53.519

    and it also made me go into finals and like you

    00:21:53.519 --> 00:21:57.200

    can really see it on my face like I was so surprised

    00:21:57.200 --> 00:21:59.789

    to flash the bowler because it felt like And

    00:21:59.789 --> 00:22:05.329

    to pledge this second coordination, it felt like

    00:22:05.329 --> 00:22:09.309

    also natural. And yeah, it's kind of satisfying

    00:22:09.309 --> 00:22:13.690

    to just try it, just go with the flow and then

    00:22:13.690 --> 00:22:16.289

    stick it from the first time. It's a pretty cool

    00:22:16.289 --> 00:22:19.930

    feeling. So I hope I will have it again next

    00:22:19.930 --> 00:22:23.650

    season. Yeah, I'm surprised you went into it

    00:22:23.650 --> 00:22:26.690

    already thinking that you aren't good at coordination

    00:22:26.690 --> 00:22:29.150

    and then you still manage to make it work. Yeah,

    00:22:29.250 --> 00:22:31.910

    it's kind of also a mindset I have to change

    00:22:31.910 --> 00:22:34.289

    and have to get under control because sometimes

    00:22:34.289 --> 00:22:37.849

    it's a bit of a problem to put myself one of

    00:22:37.849 --> 00:22:41.150

    the worst in coordination. So yeah, it's kind

    00:22:41.150 --> 00:22:43.390

    of something I have to work on, definitely. I

    00:22:43.390 --> 00:22:45.569

    heard in another interview you mentioned that

    00:22:45.569 --> 00:22:47.289

    you feel like climbing is going a little bit

    00:22:47.289 --> 00:22:51.009

    back to an old school style. so do you feel like

    00:22:51.009 --> 00:22:52.789

    that would fit you better like would you look

    00:22:52.789 --> 00:22:56.609

    forward more to that yeah I will look forward

    00:22:56.609 --> 00:23:01.369

    like a lot to it because I really I really like

    00:23:01.369 --> 00:23:05.369

    this kind of old school style where I just have

    00:23:05.369 --> 00:23:08.650

    to go for a hold hold the hold and that's it

    00:23:08.650 --> 00:23:11.930

    like just going for bad holds and not just not

    00:23:11.930 --> 00:23:16.369

    just doing like Not just going for big holes,

    00:23:16.549 --> 00:23:20.269

    but also just small holes, like small crimps

    00:23:20.269 --> 00:23:23.269

    or whatever. I don't feel like we have those

    00:23:23.269 --> 00:23:26.849

    a lot anymore. I mean, it's coming back slowly.

    00:23:28.150 --> 00:23:31.329

    Sometimes we see some more crimps, especially

    00:23:31.329 --> 00:23:34.710

    I had a feeling at South Lake. Almost the whole

    00:23:34.710 --> 00:23:37.230

    qualification boulder, I don't have the feeling

    00:23:37.230 --> 00:23:39.829

    there was a coordination. Also at semi -final,

    00:23:39.970 --> 00:23:44.220

    there were also almost no coordination. I mean,

    00:23:44.240 --> 00:23:46.559

    it's nice to have like those rounds because,

    00:23:46.680 --> 00:23:50.240

    yeah, because right now for me, there is quite

    00:23:50.240 --> 00:23:53.720

    a lot of coordination, but it could be, yeah,

    00:23:53.839 --> 00:23:56.640

    a bit less. Like I've done already some rounds

    00:23:56.640 --> 00:23:59.319

    where I'm like, okay, like here I have the feeling

    00:23:59.319 --> 00:24:02.180

    I almost have no chance to pass or to have like

    00:24:02.180 --> 00:24:05.660

    a good result because it's just like all pushed

    00:24:05.660 --> 00:24:10.480

    in this one style. Like, for example, in Prague,

    00:24:10.759 --> 00:24:15.250

    in the final, like... All four boulders were

    00:24:15.250 --> 00:24:19.450

    almost all like this modern style, either coordinations,

    00:24:19.450 --> 00:24:23.670

    either like, yeah, just modern boulders. I'll

    00:24:23.670 --> 00:24:26.670

    have to look back at that one. Maybe because

    00:24:26.670 --> 00:24:30.109

    I do the competitions. It's all like very good

    00:24:30.109 --> 00:24:34.130

    in my mind. like it's kind of started like the

    00:24:34.130 --> 00:24:36.269

    competition it started like with this kind of

    00:24:36.269 --> 00:24:39.529

    slab but it ended in like a slightly overhang

    00:24:39.529 --> 00:24:41.309

    with a coordination as well because the slab

    00:24:41.309 --> 00:24:44.049

    part was like really easy and the second boulder

    00:24:44.049 --> 00:24:46.869

    was like full coordination boulder the third

    00:24:46.869 --> 00:24:49.589

    boulder it was like starting to like push like

    00:24:49.589 --> 00:24:53.150

    push thing and then jump to a jerk and then in

    00:24:53.150 --> 00:24:55.529

    the end like a bit physical so the end was nice

    00:24:56.140 --> 00:24:58.099

    And then this last boulder also started with

    00:24:58.099 --> 00:25:00.779

    the coordination and then also like a push boulder

    00:25:00.779 --> 00:25:04.460

    again. So yeah, it's all like either pushing,

    00:25:04.740 --> 00:25:08.019

    either you do coordination. So there I really

    00:25:08.019 --> 00:25:11.259

    had the feeling like, because I was pretty happy

    00:25:11.259 --> 00:25:13.039

    with my round because it was like, okay, I climbed

    00:25:13.039 --> 00:25:16.759

    good, just in this style, like there was no way

    00:25:16.759 --> 00:25:21.180

    I can beat like Mejdi or Sotato or like, you

    00:25:21.180 --> 00:25:25.319

    know, it's almost. or I need like the best day

    00:25:25.319 --> 00:25:30.220

    of my life. Yeah, I feel like this year, I guess

    00:25:30.220 --> 00:25:32.240

    like every year it kind of seems like maybe there's

    00:25:32.240 --> 00:25:34.720

    a move or a theme that they follow a bit. And

    00:25:34.720 --> 00:25:36.440

    I felt like this year there was a lot of like

    00:25:36.440 --> 00:25:40.599

    monos and pockets. Monos and pockets. Did it

    00:25:40.599 --> 00:25:43.400

    feel like that for you? I don't know. Did I take

    00:25:43.400 --> 00:25:46.240

    mono? I mean, at Leap I took one mono this year.

    00:25:46.990 --> 00:25:49.369

    Maybe it's just because, yeah, when I'm watching,

    00:25:49.470 --> 00:25:53.349

    I always feel surprised when I see a mono. It

    00:25:53.349 --> 00:25:55.589

    just grosses me out. So I think it stands out

    00:25:55.589 --> 00:25:58.890

    in my mind. Whereas to you, the finals boulders

    00:25:58.890 --> 00:26:01.309

    all being coordination stands out to you. Yeah.

    00:26:01.390 --> 00:26:05.470

    But it's true that often there is an idea of

    00:26:05.470 --> 00:26:08.549

    the feeling going around and then they try to

    00:26:08.549 --> 00:26:12.589

    create. Even on Instagram, I feel like Instagram

    00:26:12.589 --> 00:26:16.930

    is influencing. often a lot of competitions like

    00:26:16.930 --> 00:26:20.130

    you see like one move on instagram and then you

    00:26:20.130 --> 00:26:22.150

    see it somewhere else and somewhere else and

    00:26:22.150 --> 00:26:25.970

    it almost always ends up on the competition so

    00:26:25.970 --> 00:26:29.150

    i have a feeling instagram is like doing quite

    00:26:29.150 --> 00:26:32.690

    a lot of what did you see on instagram that showed

    00:26:32.690 --> 00:26:35.470

    up in a world cup what did i see uh for example

    00:26:35.470 --> 00:26:39.009

    we had like this this one push and then you had

    00:26:39.009 --> 00:26:41.390

    to like take a hold and then go again like still

    00:26:41.390 --> 00:26:44.769

    with the push either it's it's hard to always

    00:26:44.769 --> 00:26:47.470

    to explain it kind of goes like you push you

    00:26:47.470 --> 00:26:50.390

    take a hold and then you go again to hold like

    00:26:50.390 --> 00:26:53.349

    for me it like started like on instagram i think

    00:26:53.349 --> 00:26:57.549

    was now probably meshdi uh who did it and then

    00:26:57.549 --> 00:27:01.450

    yeah it ended up on the world cups um also like

    00:27:01.450 --> 00:27:05.170

    with 360 move uh like the 360 spin on the slab

    00:27:05.170 --> 00:27:09.470

    um or 180 it's one more like 180 spin It also

    00:27:09.470 --> 00:27:14.710

    like, yes, kind of started on Instagram. And

    00:27:14.710 --> 00:27:17.390

    then it ended up, I think it was in Innsbruck

    00:27:17.390 --> 00:27:21.670

    in 2023 in the final. Yeah, because I think like,

    00:27:21.769 --> 00:27:25.109

    I mean, that's my point of view. Like if you

    00:27:25.109 --> 00:27:27.609

    don't show or if the athletes don't know about

    00:27:27.609 --> 00:27:31.029

    it, there's like a risk that nobody will actually

    00:27:31.029 --> 00:27:33.430

    try the right method and like the ball will be

    00:27:33.430 --> 00:27:37.200

    untucked or like. I think a good example was

    00:27:37.200 --> 00:27:40.859

    like in Hadjoji when there was like this, like

    00:27:40.859 --> 00:27:43.200

    the first time we had to like jump and like jump

    00:27:43.200 --> 00:27:46.079

    into a press. Like, I mean, nobody did the move

    00:27:46.079 --> 00:27:49.839

    and nobody really knew what to do. And then once

    00:27:49.839 --> 00:27:54.579

    you explain it, like Mejdi, he did the move because

    00:27:54.579 --> 00:27:56.920

    they wanted to do route setters and I asked what

    00:27:56.920 --> 00:27:59.839

    was the method and Mejdi, he did it after the

    00:27:59.839 --> 00:28:02.900

    calm and he put the video online. And then in

    00:28:02.900 --> 00:28:06.539

    the end. yeah they they did it on the world championship

    00:28:06.539 --> 00:28:08.519

    again and the boulder was stoned because they

    00:28:08.519 --> 00:28:11.279

    yeah they knew what to do so it's kind of like

    00:28:11.279 --> 00:28:14.519

    a feeling with complicated moves you have to

    00:28:14.519 --> 00:28:18.180

    like show the show them what to do before they

    00:28:18.180 --> 00:28:21.019

    or or like you need somebody who actually like

    00:28:21.019 --> 00:28:23.900

    figures it out yeah there's always courage that

    00:28:23.900 --> 00:28:27.099

    that don't doesn't work So you need to spend

    00:28:27.099 --> 00:28:29.480

    more time on Instagram to know what to expect

    00:28:29.480 --> 00:28:32.180

    for next year. Maybe, yeah. You really have to

    00:28:32.180 --> 00:28:34.480

    follow Instagram very good to know what kind

    00:28:34.480 --> 00:28:37.180

    of ball you're going to get next year. Okay,

    00:28:37.240 --> 00:28:41.059

    keep scrolling then. So I think I've also heard

    00:28:41.059 --> 00:28:43.220

    a lot of athletes mention that it's hard to keep

    00:28:43.220 --> 00:28:46.039

    up in good shape throughout a long competition

    00:28:46.039 --> 00:28:51.049

    season. It seems like 2025 was pretty long. But

    00:28:51.049 --> 00:28:52.849

    I just feel like if everyone is going through

    00:28:52.849 --> 00:28:55.549

    that same struggle where, you know, it's like

    00:28:55.549 --> 00:28:57.609

    starts out stronger and then it's a long season,

    00:28:57.670 --> 00:29:00.609

    then there shouldn't really be like an issue,

    00:29:00.710 --> 00:29:04.789

    right? Yeah, exactly. Yeah. I mean, yeah, I agree.

    00:29:05.450 --> 00:29:09.390

    I feel like if everybody does the same, it's

    00:29:09.390 --> 00:29:12.009

    the same for everybody. Do you feel like it's

    00:29:12.009 --> 00:29:13.849

    hard for you to stay in good shape throughout

    00:29:13.849 --> 00:29:16.390

    the season or like last season? Yeah, it was

    00:29:16.390 --> 00:29:20.740

    not super easy. especially when you do like multiple

    00:29:20.740 --> 00:29:22.539

    weeks in a row because the climate competition

    00:29:22.539 --> 00:29:26.440

    takes quite some energy. And of course, yeah,

    00:29:26.519 --> 00:29:28.420

    when you do competition, you're not really training.

    00:29:28.539 --> 00:29:31.700

    So if you do like two or three comps in a row,

    00:29:31.900 --> 00:29:35.180

    it's more like always like three weeks of trying

    00:29:35.180 --> 00:29:39.519

    to recover from the comp and not really training.

    00:29:40.220 --> 00:29:42.619

    But yeah, like you said, if everybody does the

    00:29:42.619 --> 00:29:45.720

    same, then yeah, then everybody will be like,

    00:29:45.819 --> 00:29:48.440

    everybody's shape will go down a bit. But yeah,

    00:29:48.519 --> 00:29:54.140

    I also am a big fan of comms. So yeah, I would

    00:29:54.140 --> 00:29:57.539

    love to have more comms anyway. Like I really

    00:29:57.539 --> 00:30:00.220

    like comms. So the more the better for me. That's

    00:30:00.220 --> 00:30:03.500

    also like I'm still combining both disciplines.

    00:30:03.759 --> 00:30:08.519

    So part of the reason is because I just like

    00:30:08.519 --> 00:30:10.680

    competition. And if I do lead, I can do like

    00:30:10.680 --> 00:30:14.339

    more competitions. So maybe the only thing that

    00:30:14.339 --> 00:30:17.660

    I... maybe would be a bit better is that they

    00:30:17.660 --> 00:30:22.839

    they don't extend the season like too much like

    00:30:22.839 --> 00:30:26.960

    I think this year was okay like the world championship

    00:30:26.960 --> 00:30:30.480

    came quite late especially for boulders when

    00:30:30.480 --> 00:30:33.380

    you finish in Innsbruck there's like three months

    00:30:33.380 --> 00:30:36.000

    I think or maybe four I don't know I think three

    00:30:36.000 --> 00:30:39.059

    three months in between the last comp and then

    00:30:39.059 --> 00:30:41.240

    the world championships so maybe that they could

    00:30:41.240 --> 00:30:44.980

    just try to avoid I also see now that like just

    00:30:44.980 --> 00:30:49.220

    the calendar came out for 2026 yeah and I've

    00:30:49.220 --> 00:30:53.299

    seen that that they put like Celtic City like

    00:30:53.299 --> 00:30:56.900

    beginning of October and I guess the last World

    00:30:56.900 --> 00:31:01.059

    Cup is in Innsbruck again so I mean I didn't

    00:31:01.059 --> 00:31:03.599

    check it 100 % but I guess there will still again

    00:31:03.599 --> 00:31:07.759

    there will again be like a gap of like two or

    00:31:07.759 --> 00:31:11.259

    three months which for me it's like It kind of

    00:31:11.259 --> 00:31:14.460

    sucks because a lot of people just want to also

    00:31:14.460 --> 00:31:16.819

    go rock climbing. And if you do that, it's kind

    00:31:16.819 --> 00:31:19.400

    of like, I mean, rock climbing, it doesn't, it's

    00:31:19.400 --> 00:31:22.119

    a good thing to do, but it's not the best preparation

    00:31:22.119 --> 00:31:28.019

    either for competitions. So yes, some, because

    00:31:28.019 --> 00:31:30.420

    for me, I really want to do rock climbing. Just,

    00:31:30.420 --> 00:31:33.519

    yeah, I'm just a bit scared if I do too much

    00:31:33.519 --> 00:31:36.019

    for the comp. People like, especially for me,

    00:31:36.019 --> 00:31:38.690

    when you're not. feeling the most confident in

    00:31:38.690 --> 00:31:40.430

    coordination she kind of wants to bring coordination

    00:31:40.430 --> 00:31:42.970

    and yeah rock climbing is not all coordination

    00:31:42.970 --> 00:31:46.869

    so yeah it will be a bit nicer if they just like

    00:31:46.869 --> 00:31:49.569

    okay the season stops here and not like a gap

    00:31:49.569 --> 00:31:51.750

    of three months where you're just like okay now

    00:31:51.750 --> 00:31:55.130

    I have to stay inside or I can't go like or I

    00:31:55.130 --> 00:31:57.829

    can't fully commit on a outer project because

    00:31:57.829 --> 00:32:01.130

    if I do that yeah for sure you will lose a bit

    00:32:01.130 --> 00:32:03.970

    of form you know that's the only thing that will

    00:32:03.970 --> 00:32:06.960

    be nice right Yeah, like especially going from

    00:32:06.960 --> 00:32:09.440

    lead back into like a boulder mindset again.

    00:32:09.740 --> 00:32:13.099

    Yeah, yeah, exactly. Yeah, it's yeah. Yeah. And

    00:32:13.099 --> 00:32:17.140

    I mean, it looks like you are more of a boulder,

    00:32:17.200 --> 00:32:19.599

    but also improving in your lead climbing as well.

    00:32:19.960 --> 00:32:22.079

    Do you feel like you're going to be more focused

    00:32:22.079 --> 00:32:24.880

    on lead climbing training or is that still more

    00:32:24.880 --> 00:32:27.500

    like secondary for you? No, I mean, I've always

    00:32:27.500 --> 00:32:30.779

    been like very good in lead until the point I

    00:32:30.779 --> 00:32:33.279

    got like good in bouldering, which is kind of

    00:32:33.279 --> 00:32:36.339

    funny. I mean, I have like, I mean, when I was

    00:32:36.339 --> 00:32:38.579

    talking earlier about my injury on my elbow,

    00:32:38.700 --> 00:32:42.140

    when I said I already had it before, like I had

    00:32:42.140 --> 00:32:45.700

    to stop climbing for one year because I had like

    00:32:45.700 --> 00:32:49.099

    a big injury on my elbow, which is like back

    00:32:49.099 --> 00:32:52.880

    in 2019, I think. So quite some time ago, like

    00:32:52.880 --> 00:32:54.859

    when I was still in the youth, I think was my

    00:32:54.859 --> 00:32:58.119

    second year in the youth. So luckily it was not

    00:32:58.119 --> 00:33:01.099

    like in an important year where like it was important

    00:33:01.099 --> 00:33:07.349

    to like push on trainings. But everything before

    00:33:07.349 --> 00:33:13.450

    that, I was always into lead climbing. My boulder

    00:33:13.450 --> 00:33:17.450

    results were very bad. I was not really winning.

    00:33:17.730 --> 00:33:21.589

    I mean, the Belgium Cups sometimes and the Youth

    00:33:21.589 --> 00:33:24.329

    Cups and the European level, I was really nowhere.

    00:33:24.609 --> 00:33:27.210

    I was getting lost or something in the middle.

    00:33:27.430 --> 00:33:31.069

    It was not super good. and then I came out of

    00:33:31.069 --> 00:33:34.390

    this injury and yeah I don't know I think like

    00:33:34.390 --> 00:33:36.769

    I grew a bit because when I was young I was also

    00:33:36.769 --> 00:33:39.650

    very very small like really one of the smallest

    00:33:39.650 --> 00:33:42.710

    I was in the category and I think it was also

    00:33:42.710 --> 00:33:45.029

    kind of linked with that but since I was small

    00:33:45.029 --> 00:33:47.529

    I was also like very very light and I had like

    00:33:47.529 --> 00:33:50.930

    like a lot a lot of endurance so I think it's

    00:33:50.930 --> 00:33:53.430

    also a bit linked with each other like being

    00:33:53.430 --> 00:33:57.289

    very small and um but yeah when I came back out

    00:33:57.289 --> 00:34:01.789

    of injury like my bouldering level it like increased

    00:34:01.789 --> 00:34:06.250

    like quite a lot so yeah since then yeah the

    00:34:06.250 --> 00:34:08.190

    bouldering went better and better and actually

    00:34:08.190 --> 00:34:10.849

    the lead climbing went a bit worse until like

    00:34:10.849 --> 00:34:14.670

    last year when I started training for lead like

    00:34:14.670 --> 00:34:17.309

    a lot a lot trying to expect for the Olympics

    00:34:17.309 --> 00:34:22.630

    and yeah since then I started doing lead also

    00:34:22.630 --> 00:34:24.829

    better and better and until now I'm still like

    00:34:24.829 --> 00:34:27.530

    improving and yeah I really like it so I would

    00:34:27.530 --> 00:34:30.630

    like to keep combining it actually do you have

    00:34:30.630 --> 00:34:33.329

    a preference I mean especially since you don't

    00:34:33.329 --> 00:34:35.969

    really prefer doing crazy coordinations in boulder

    00:34:35.969 --> 00:34:38.710

    it seems like lead has slightly less of that

    00:34:38.710 --> 00:34:41.929

    no yeah I still prefer bouldering actually because

    00:34:41.929 --> 00:34:45.750

    it's not that I dislike coordinations is for

    00:34:45.750 --> 00:34:48.469

    sure it's not the most fun to train but yeah

    00:34:48.469 --> 00:34:52.150

    it's still okay but No, I think I still prefer

    00:34:52.150 --> 00:34:54.329

    bouldering because for me there is still more

    00:34:54.329 --> 00:34:57.570

    variation into it. Also, the competitions are

    00:34:57.570 --> 00:35:00.809

    a bit longer, which I kind of prefer because

    00:35:00.809 --> 00:35:03.210

    there is a bit more the mental aspect. Also,

    00:35:03.289 --> 00:35:08.289

    the strategy within bouldering I like. But when

    00:35:08.289 --> 00:35:11.730

    you look like outdoor, I prefer to go leaf climbing

    00:35:11.730 --> 00:35:14.880

    outdoor because... Yeah, it's a different game

    00:35:14.880 --> 00:35:17.900

    and it's more climbing. And yeah, I prefer to

    00:35:17.900 --> 00:35:21.179

    do like rock climbing, lead outdoor, but on competitions,

    00:35:21.260 --> 00:35:24.679

    I prefer bouldering. That's also kind of a reason

    00:35:24.679 --> 00:35:27.679

    I keep on combining both because I'm scared when

    00:35:27.679 --> 00:35:31.280

    I will say to myself, okay, from now I quit bouldering

    00:35:31.280 --> 00:35:35.679

    and I go, I quit this, I quit lead and I go all

    00:35:35.679 --> 00:35:39.119

    in bouldering. Like I will probably use my formal

    00:35:39.119 --> 00:35:41.829

    lead climbing and I... will not be able to send

    00:35:41.829 --> 00:35:45.429

    the lead projects that i want to send so yeah

    00:35:45.429 --> 00:35:48.610

    um so then moving on to what your training looks

    00:35:48.610 --> 00:35:50.869

    like um what does your training schedule look

    00:35:50.869 --> 00:35:53.139

    like usually If you're interested in ad -free

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    episodes and would like to unlock over four hours

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    of deleted scenes, including one where Hannes

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    World Cup, do consider helping support this podcast

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    liking, commenting, and sharing helps a great

    00:36:24.659 --> 00:36:28.019

    deal as well. Back to the show. So I'm more like

    00:36:28.019 --> 00:36:31.980

    the guy who do like quite some double sessions.

    00:36:32.179 --> 00:36:34.980

    So I'm more into like double sessions instead

    00:36:34.980 --> 00:36:38.920

    of doing multiple days in a row. I mean, I do

    00:36:38.920 --> 00:36:43.340

    multiple days in a row. But yeah, almost every

    00:36:43.340 --> 00:36:47.619

    day I do is like a double session, except for...

    00:36:47.960 --> 00:36:50.000

    This year I kind of had to slow it down because

    00:36:50.000 --> 00:36:51.900

    of the elbow because it was hurting too much,

    00:36:51.980 --> 00:36:54.460

    especially the second session. No, most of the

    00:36:54.460 --> 00:36:57.800

    time it's like two days on and then one day like

    00:36:57.800 --> 00:37:02.059

    off. Then I come the day off, I either like sometimes

    00:37:02.059 --> 00:37:05.579

    I do the slab sessions or I do like cardio when

    00:37:05.579 --> 00:37:08.719

    I go running. I also have like a running program

    00:37:08.719 --> 00:37:13.639

    because my coach and also me believes that it

    00:37:13.639 --> 00:37:16.980

    can help like doing interval training for bouldering.

    00:37:17.440 --> 00:37:20.320

    In what way does running help? I mean, I never

    00:37:20.320 --> 00:37:23.940

    really asked, but when you look at polar comms,

    00:37:23.960 --> 00:37:26.860

    it's like you go like five minutes on the mat.

    00:37:27.039 --> 00:37:31.159

    When you do like, you put like tries and you

    00:37:31.159 --> 00:37:33.480

    know, when you finish in five minutes, you're

    00:37:33.480 --> 00:37:37.500

    quite exhausted. It's just quite hard. And then

    00:37:37.500 --> 00:37:39.880

    you have like five minutes rest. So it's kind

    00:37:39.880 --> 00:37:42.519

    of like an interval. if you can like kind of

    00:37:42.519 --> 00:37:45.659

    recreate it with running and you can like do

    00:37:45.659 --> 00:37:47.659

    like running intervals when you like tire your

    00:37:47.659 --> 00:37:50.780

    body out for a time and then you take like rest,

    00:37:50.780 --> 00:37:53.679

    you do like slower running and then like this,

    00:37:53.719 --> 00:37:57.159

    you can like just train to let your body like

    00:37:57.159 --> 00:38:00.300

    recover like during the five minutes. I guess

    00:38:00.300 --> 00:38:02.940

    it's something like this. I mean, I didn't do

    00:38:02.940 --> 00:38:08.800

    any studies for it, but I trust my coach. Also,

    00:38:08.800 --> 00:38:12.519

    I do fitness. I know not everybody is like a

    00:38:12.519 --> 00:38:14.699

    big fan of fitness in the climbing world because

    00:38:14.699 --> 00:38:17.559

    some are scared to take too much muscles. I mean,

    00:38:17.579 --> 00:38:23.500

    I did take some muscles, but I think the power

    00:38:23.500 --> 00:38:27.559

    you gain from the fitness is better than the

    00:38:27.559 --> 00:38:31.679

    weight gain you have. I mean, at least I hope

    00:38:31.679 --> 00:38:36.719

    so. Like my coach say it's like this. I put a

    00:38:36.719 --> 00:38:39.860

    lot of trust in her. So yeah, I do fitness. It's

    00:38:39.860 --> 00:38:45.000

    about, depends on the time of the year. But in

    00:38:45.000 --> 00:38:48.019

    winter training, it's about three times a week.

    00:38:48.219 --> 00:38:52.139

    Then you go to two times a week. Is that like,

    00:38:52.139 --> 00:38:53.960

    that's like strength training, weightlifting,

    00:38:54.079 --> 00:38:55.840

    stuff like that? Yeah, especially weightlifting.

    00:38:55.960 --> 00:38:57.760

    Yeah, mainly focus on weightlifting. Yeah, I

    00:38:57.760 --> 00:38:59.820

    mean, when I say strength training, I should

    00:38:59.820 --> 00:39:03.860

    have more specified to like actually weightlifting.

    00:39:03.880 --> 00:39:06.260

    Yeah. I don't know if you necessarily know, but

    00:39:06.260 --> 00:39:09.179

    is it true that I guess a lot of like the Japanese

    00:39:09.179 --> 00:39:11.519

    climbers like only do climbing and they're like

    00:39:11.519 --> 00:39:14.019

    the ones who don't do any strength training or

    00:39:14.019 --> 00:39:16.679

    like weightlifting? Yeah, that could be. And

    00:39:16.679 --> 00:39:20.460

    I also ask myself the question if fitness training

    00:39:20.460 --> 00:39:24.900

    is actually the way to go. But I mean, maybe

    00:39:24.900 --> 00:39:27.699

    if the Japanese did weightlifting, they will

    00:39:27.699 --> 00:39:32.519

    have been even more stronger. So I guess we will

    00:39:32.519 --> 00:39:37.800

    never know that. Yeah, I heard it too, but yeah,

    00:39:37.880 --> 00:39:41.320

    I don't know exactly how they are all training.

    00:39:42.519 --> 00:39:45.219

    I mean, for sure, I saw the videos of Tomoa.

    00:39:45.300 --> 00:39:48.000

    He said that he doesn't really do the weightlifting

    00:39:48.000 --> 00:39:51.159

    except like a bit in warming up, but it's definitely

    00:39:51.159 --> 00:39:55.219

    not how most of the people see weightlift training.

    00:39:56.219 --> 00:40:00.079

    But yeah, I've already discussed it with my coach

    00:40:00.079 --> 00:40:03.039

    too, and I think at once... point we're gonna

    00:40:03.039 --> 00:40:06.840

    switch to doing maybe more spray well sessions

    00:40:06.840 --> 00:40:09.719

    instead of weightlifting just because yeah at

    00:40:09.719 --> 00:40:13.500

    one point you will be you you will have and not

    00:40:13.500 --> 00:40:16.579

    done enough like weightlifting and it just like

    00:40:16.579 --> 00:40:20.500

    it's not really a matter to gain more strength

    00:40:20.500 --> 00:40:23.519

    but more like um try to keep the strength at

    00:40:23.519 --> 00:40:26.099

    a certain level so you have to do like less weight

    00:40:26.099 --> 00:40:29.980

    training so but that's in the future so But for

    00:40:29.980 --> 00:40:32.800

    the moment, still a lot of weight training, unfortunately,

    00:40:33.059 --> 00:40:37.000

    because it's not my most preferred. I don't like

    00:40:37.000 --> 00:40:39.760

    it. Yeah, it's kind of lonely, you know, like

    00:40:39.760 --> 00:40:43.139

    I do it in like a fitness, which is not in the

    00:40:43.139 --> 00:40:46.699

    climbing gym. So yeah, it's just like with your

    00:40:46.699 --> 00:40:49.860

    headset on and yeah, being a bit alone. So I

    00:40:49.860 --> 00:40:52.179

    don't really like the trainings alone, but yeah,

    00:40:52.239 --> 00:40:55.159

    so. Yeah, is there any one thing you feel like

    00:40:55.159 --> 00:40:56.940

    you've done in training that has helped you the

    00:40:56.940 --> 00:40:58.900

    most? Like you did it and then after you're like,

    00:40:59.019 --> 00:41:01.260

    whoa, that really worked for me. For me, it's

    00:41:01.260 --> 00:41:03.500

    always been hard to say like this helps or that

    00:41:03.500 --> 00:41:07.280

    helps because I can expect myself to become better

    00:41:07.280 --> 00:41:11.699

    like so. But I would say like something very

    00:41:11.699 --> 00:41:17.840

    important is when you really look at competition

    00:41:17.840 --> 00:41:23.440

    climbing. For bouldering, for me like... repetitions

    00:41:23.440 --> 00:41:25.940

    of coordinations with like a lot a lot helps

    00:41:25.940 --> 00:41:29.619

    for sure um really do them like like just this

    00:41:29.619 --> 00:41:31.639

    one coordination like try to do it like five

    00:41:31.639 --> 00:41:33.800

    times in a row and then you come back like the

    00:41:33.800 --> 00:41:37.099

    next day like try to flash it again really try

    00:41:37.099 --> 00:41:41.880

    to put like a lot of uh repetitions in this one

    00:41:41.880 --> 00:41:47.239

    coordination um because like my opinion they're

    00:41:47.239 --> 00:41:52.070

    they're not endless of variations and coordinations

    00:41:52.070 --> 00:41:56.630

    you know like all coordinations kind of goes

    00:41:56.630 --> 00:41:59.210

    into the same movement as the coordination you've

    00:41:59.210 --> 00:42:03.010

    already done so I mean they're still inventing

    00:42:03.010 --> 00:42:05.150

    I don't know how but every time there's a new

    00:42:05.150 --> 00:42:08.269

    coordination but but yeah still you will always

    00:42:08.269 --> 00:42:10.570

    get especially like in qualification or or in

    00:42:10.570 --> 00:42:13.050

    semi -final you will kind of get like the same

    00:42:13.050 --> 00:42:15.230

    coordination you've already done so if you just

    00:42:15.230 --> 00:42:17.750

    repeat a lot of the coordinations you do at training

    00:42:17.750 --> 00:42:20.519

    eventually you will kind of get the same kind

    00:42:20.519 --> 00:42:26.760

    of coordination comes so that's very um yeah

    00:42:26.760 --> 00:42:30.059

    useful uh for lead i would say like one of the

    00:42:30.059 --> 00:42:33.860

    things i've done a lot um before the olympic

    00:42:33.860 --> 00:42:37.039

    qualifiers which like i felt like my level went

    00:42:37.039 --> 00:42:41.400

    like up like a lot in lead um it's like just

    00:42:41.400 --> 00:42:43.900

    on a spray well you do like one minute on one

    00:42:43.900 --> 00:42:46.280

    minute off and you like you don't go until like

    00:42:46.280 --> 00:42:50.539

    the full pump but you try to to go like to eight

    00:42:50.539 --> 00:42:54.699

    out of ten like being pumped so uh during like

    00:42:54.699 --> 00:42:57.260

    the whole exercise like this i have the feeling

    00:42:57.260 --> 00:42:59.380

    this like helped me the most because it's like

    00:42:59.380 --> 00:43:03.239

    kind of the exercises i did uh the most and yeah

    00:43:03.239 --> 00:43:08.239

    my level went up quite a lot in lead so i think

    00:43:08.239 --> 00:43:11.239

    that's yeah especially for me it's one of the

    00:43:11.239 --> 00:43:15.360

    most important exercise for me That's good to

    00:43:15.360 --> 00:43:18.719

    know. I think one thing that a lot of people,

    00:43:18.820 --> 00:43:21.719

    it came up a lot, a lot of audience members want

    00:43:21.719 --> 00:43:24.000

    to know this. How did you get so good at slab?

    00:43:24.300 --> 00:43:29.840

    Yeah. I wonder, like, because this thing with

    00:43:29.840 --> 00:43:32.960

    slabs, like, it's true that I've done, like,

    00:43:33.079 --> 00:43:35.800

    some slabs that are pretty hard and I got some,

    00:43:35.900 --> 00:43:38.840

    like. only a sense like on competitions of slabs

    00:43:38.840 --> 00:43:41.679

    also like yeah last rock masters again like i

    00:43:41.679 --> 00:43:44.579

    thought the slab that one was crazy um you know

    00:43:44.579 --> 00:43:49.179

    i've i've no idea honestly and and it's it seems

    00:43:49.179 --> 00:43:52.239

    like it's like um and the feeling is not always

    00:43:52.239 --> 00:43:55.119

    true that i'm so good at slabs like when you

    00:43:55.119 --> 00:43:59.440

    see which boulders i do on slabs like actually

    00:43:59.440 --> 00:44:04.599

    it's not that much like um there been a lot of

    00:44:04.599 --> 00:44:07.039

    slaps on comms that a lot of people did and I

    00:44:07.039 --> 00:44:10.960

    didn't do. But then once there was like a very,

    00:44:11.000 --> 00:44:14.460

    very hard slap, like for me, sometimes it just

    00:44:14.460 --> 00:44:17.059

    works out. And I don't know how, I mean, it's

    00:44:17.059 --> 00:44:19.239

    true. I worked a lot, a lot on slaps because

    00:44:19.239 --> 00:44:21.739

    when I was younger, I think slap was kind of

    00:44:21.739 --> 00:44:26.800

    my weaker point. Also with this elbow injury,

    00:44:27.139 --> 00:44:31.659

    I couldn't always climb with two hands. So I

    00:44:31.659 --> 00:44:34.130

    did like at one point I did a lot of slaps. So

    00:44:34.130 --> 00:44:36.130

    yeah, I mean, if you want to get good at slabs,

    00:44:36.150 --> 00:44:38.409

    yeah, there are not a lot of things you can do.

    00:44:38.429 --> 00:44:42.389

    You just like do a lot of slab climbing. So you

    00:44:42.389 --> 00:44:44.929

    don't really consider yourself like a super good

    00:44:44.929 --> 00:44:46.750

    slab climber. Like when you think about your

    00:44:46.750 --> 00:44:49.170

    own climbing, you're not like, I'm the slab person.

    00:44:49.650 --> 00:44:53.570

    Yeah, no, not really. Interesting. It gave me

    00:44:53.570 --> 00:44:57.090

    like a lot of pressure to hear like this thing

    00:44:57.090 --> 00:45:02.420

    because at one moment like... I did some slaps

    00:45:02.420 --> 00:45:04.679

    and I did some hard slaps and then I actually

    00:45:04.679 --> 00:45:07.920

    started to believe that I was good in slaps and

    00:45:07.920 --> 00:45:09.880

    I started to feel more confident in slaps. So

    00:45:09.880 --> 00:45:15.739

    this kind of helped until I also started to expect

    00:45:15.739 --> 00:45:19.239

    myself to every kind of the slaps. Exactly, yeah.

    00:45:19.780 --> 00:45:21.980

    Yeah, and how there's a slap, like, yeah, now

    00:45:21.980 --> 00:45:24.539

    you have to do it because you're supposed to

    00:45:24.539 --> 00:45:28.489

    be the best in slaps. it gives like kind of the

    00:45:28.489 --> 00:45:30.530

    pressure, you know, not only in comms, but also

    00:45:30.530 --> 00:45:34.530

    in trainings, like you do trainings with, with

    00:45:34.530 --> 00:45:37.170

    like, yeah, with other people, like from other

    00:45:37.170 --> 00:45:39.489

    teams or whatever. And every time we go to the

    00:45:39.489 --> 00:45:41.409

    slab, like, you know, there, there are always

    00:45:41.409 --> 00:45:44.449

    some guys were like, yeah, yeah, the slab master.

    00:45:44.630 --> 00:45:47.130

    And they always say something. I was like the

    00:45:47.130 --> 00:45:49.809

    small thing. And then it immediately gives like

    00:45:49.809 --> 00:45:52.530

    the stress, like, okay, fuck. Now I, I have to

    00:45:52.530 --> 00:45:57.070

    do good, you know? And yeah, it's, it's, It's

    00:45:57.070 --> 00:45:59.909

    not always been very easy when people say it,

    00:45:59.929 --> 00:46:04.090

    but it's kind of funny because I came from a

    00:46:04.090 --> 00:46:07.170

    style that was not really good in slaps and now

    00:46:07.170 --> 00:46:09.849

    people say that I'm one of the best at slaps.

    00:46:10.449 --> 00:46:13.730

    It's not completely not true, but it's also not

    00:46:13.730 --> 00:46:16.469

    completely true. It depends from slap to slap.

    00:46:16.849 --> 00:46:19.269

    I believe there are a lot of styles in slaps

    00:46:19.269 --> 00:46:22.230

    too. Yeah, I wonder where it came from then.

    00:46:22.329 --> 00:46:25.360

    I guess because... I think probably like Matt

    00:46:25.360 --> 00:46:27.579

    said it one time during live stream and then

    00:46:27.579 --> 00:46:30.320

    he says it every time. And then, yeah, every

    00:46:30.320 --> 00:46:32.480

    time you show up, if you don't do it, he's like,

    00:46:32.559 --> 00:46:36.000

    oh my God, he didn't do it. Exactly, yeah. I

    00:46:36.000 --> 00:46:39.019

    guess it probably came from, I mean, my first

    00:46:39.019 --> 00:46:41.539

    final I made wasn't had Joji and I was the only

    00:46:41.539 --> 00:46:44.639

    one to top the slab, which was like a super physical

    00:46:44.639 --> 00:46:46.900

    slab. Like there was nothing on the feet. Like

    00:46:46.900 --> 00:46:50.440

    it was all like shouldery things and small. Yeah,

    00:46:50.559 --> 00:46:52.679

    it was just like shouldery things and just like.

    00:46:53.130 --> 00:46:55.510

    switch foot or put foot on a volume like I don't

    00:46:55.510 --> 00:46:57.369

    know but I remember it was just pure physical

    00:46:57.369 --> 00:47:01.590

    and almost everything in in your arms and yeah

    00:47:01.590 --> 00:47:04.789

    that the same comp I also slept in the final

    00:47:04.789 --> 00:47:07.829

    and then also the next comp I did pretty good

    00:47:07.829 --> 00:47:11.300

    and another hard slap so I guess like it's this

    00:47:11.300 --> 00:47:15.039

    and then indeed like Matt Gurum started to saying

    00:47:15.039 --> 00:47:18.119

    it. And then, yeah, he never got it out of his

    00:47:18.119 --> 00:47:21.619

    head. So he just kept saying it for, I guess

    00:47:21.619 --> 00:47:24.300

    he will keep saying it. And every time I don't

    00:47:24.300 --> 00:47:27.460

    do the slap, I will disappoint Matt. And so,

    00:47:27.539 --> 00:47:31.079

    yeah, that's just how it is right now. Yeah,

    00:47:31.079 --> 00:47:34.650

    sorry that you have to carry that weight. I think

    00:47:34.650 --> 00:47:37.909

    one of the audience questions was, what are your

    00:47:37.909 --> 00:47:40.369

    top tips for comp style slab and specifically

    00:47:40.369 --> 00:47:43.690

    foot swaps? So do you have anything for that?

    00:47:44.010 --> 00:47:47.949

    Well, what I did find out is like when you do

    00:47:47.949 --> 00:47:51.849

    foot swaps, especially without hands, it's like

    00:47:51.849 --> 00:47:55.469

    I can always try to put my body out of the wall

    00:47:55.469 --> 00:47:58.489

    a bit. And from the moment I want to do the foot

    00:47:58.489 --> 00:48:01.210

    swap, like I go back into the wall. It's like

    00:48:01.210 --> 00:48:04.469

    only like... a centimeter or like a millimeter

    00:48:04.469 --> 00:48:08.070

    but it kind of it kind of helped me a lot to

    00:48:08.070 --> 00:48:10.730

    do like some foot swaps so the feeling this is

    00:48:10.730 --> 00:48:13.250

    like this is actually pretty helpful like you

    00:48:13.250 --> 00:48:15.949

    should try if you if you do a foot swap like

    00:48:15.949 --> 00:48:18.809

    just go this like tiny bit out of the wall and

    00:48:18.809 --> 00:48:20.769

    once you want to make the foot swap you just

    00:48:20.769 --> 00:48:23.829

    like go back and then you you kind of stop the

    00:48:23.829 --> 00:48:25.849

    momentum when you're again the closest to the

    00:48:25.849 --> 00:48:27.969

    wall you like kind of fall into the wall again

    00:48:27.969 --> 00:48:31.849

    it's just like a small centimeter or less but

    00:48:32.360 --> 00:48:35.500

    can help me like quite a lot also like playing

    00:48:35.500 --> 00:48:38.019

    with like the how you how you switch your foot

    00:48:38.019 --> 00:48:40.719

    because you can switch your foot like this or

    00:48:40.719 --> 00:48:43.780

    you can like turn your feet and switch it like

    00:48:43.780 --> 00:48:48.699

    this like it's like both works but it's a different

    00:48:48.699 --> 00:48:52.440

    situation and like it depends on which situation

    00:48:52.440 --> 00:48:54.980

    you are which one works so No, I think that'll

    00:48:54.980 --> 00:48:57.300

    be helpful. We have like a no hand slab set up

    00:48:57.300 --> 00:49:00.619

    right now. So maybe I'll try out the out and

    00:49:00.619 --> 00:49:03.880

    in method. Yeah, for me, it's always a nightmare,

    00:49:04.019 --> 00:49:07.239

    those no hand slabs. Yeah, because it's always

    00:49:07.239 --> 00:49:10.699

    like so scary. I don't know, especially with

    00:49:10.699 --> 00:49:14.360

    volumes. It's so bad. Yeah, the shoes. I don't

    00:49:14.360 --> 00:49:17.900

    like it. Yeah. I also have a weird thing where

    00:49:17.900 --> 00:49:21.900

    I feel bad doing no hand slab because I feel

    00:49:21.900 --> 00:49:24.719

    like I'm wasting my rubber on it. Like I'm worried

    00:49:24.719 --> 00:49:26.840

    that every single time I turn my foot, I'm like,

    00:49:26.880 --> 00:49:30.119

    there goes, there goes, there goes my, my shoe.

    00:49:30.519 --> 00:49:33.719

    Yeah. It kind of, yeah. It's kind of true. Like,

    00:49:33.739 --> 00:49:36.519

    yeah, the rubber, it just changes every time

    00:49:36.519 --> 00:49:39.599

    you slip off or, or whatever. Like, yeah. Especially

    00:49:39.599 --> 00:49:42.460

    when you use shoes that are fast, like flat,

    00:49:42.579 --> 00:49:46.260

    like yes. When you do volume slabs, it's. Yeah,

    00:49:46.360 --> 00:49:49.420

    it can go fast, sure. Yeah, I guess going into

    00:49:49.420 --> 00:49:51.340

    the mindset a bit, you already talked a little

    00:49:51.340 --> 00:49:55.500

    bit about how if you don't send a slab now, it

    00:49:55.500 --> 00:49:59.019

    kind of gets in your head. Yeah, not necessarily

    00:49:59.019 --> 00:50:01.539

    when it's a slab, but just in general, it depends

    00:50:01.539 --> 00:50:03.940

    on which situation you are in. I mean, there

    00:50:03.940 --> 00:50:07.260

    are so many situations that can happen. You can

    00:50:07.260 --> 00:50:10.000

    have the people in front of you that do the boulder,

    00:50:10.099 --> 00:50:12.280

    you can have the people after you that do the

    00:50:12.280 --> 00:50:14.199

    boulder, you can have nobody that do the boulder,

    00:50:14.280 --> 00:50:17.780

    you can have like... your rival that do the boulder

    00:50:17.780 --> 00:50:21.900

    or whatever there's so many not necessarily which

    00:50:21.900 --> 00:50:24.119

    kind of boulder it is it's just like it's more

    00:50:24.119 --> 00:50:27.039

    like the situation you're in like that can change

    00:50:27.039 --> 00:50:30.159

    a lot yeah wait real quick who's your rival I

    00:50:30.159 --> 00:50:32.760

    don't know like I guess everybody I want to beat

    00:50:32.760 --> 00:50:35.219

    everybody I mean in the end I want to win the

    00:50:35.219 --> 00:50:38.119

    competition so I was just talking in general

    00:50:38.119 --> 00:50:41.639

    but yeah okay For me, it's more like, yeah, I

    00:50:41.639 --> 00:50:44.079

    just want to win, so I have to beat everybody

    00:50:44.079 --> 00:50:46.659

    anyway. Okay, so of those situations you just

    00:50:46.659 --> 00:50:48.860

    mentioned, like people before you or after you

    00:50:48.860 --> 00:50:51.639

    topped or nobody topped, which of those do you

    00:50:51.639 --> 00:50:54.619

    feel like, I guess, hurts your mindset the most

    00:50:54.619 --> 00:50:57.360

    and which one kind of fires you up more? For

    00:50:57.360 --> 00:51:00.360

    me, what fires you up the most for sure is when

    00:51:00.360 --> 00:51:02.400

    the people in front of you don't do the boulder.

    00:51:02.539 --> 00:51:07.539

    That's what really gives you like, okay, like...

    00:51:07.659 --> 00:51:09.980

    Now you can like make the show, you know, like

    00:51:09.980 --> 00:51:14.420

    the boulder, it has not been topped. So, so,

    00:51:14.440 --> 00:51:16.039

    you know, you can really do something great.

    00:51:17.599 --> 00:51:20.860

    The worst is probably when the people behind

    00:51:20.860 --> 00:51:23.320

    you do the boulder, because, you know, you can't

    00:51:23.320 --> 00:51:25.840

    change it anymore. And you know that it has been

    00:51:25.840 --> 00:51:28.539

    topped. So, you know, you're like kind of disadvantaged

    00:51:28.539 --> 00:51:31.719

    to already the person that's behind you. And,

    00:51:31.719 --> 00:51:34.599

    you know, you don't know who else, but possibly

    00:51:34.599 --> 00:51:39.170

    somebody else too. And yeah, when somebody from

    00:51:39.170 --> 00:51:42.929

    a few tops, it's more like, okay, like, yeah,

    00:51:43.030 --> 00:51:46.030

    you kind of have to do the boulder or the boulder

    00:51:46.030 --> 00:51:48.210

    is just really hard and he just didn't. But anyway,

    00:51:48.369 --> 00:51:51.630

    you know that he did it, so it is a possible

    00:51:51.630 --> 00:51:54.769

    boulder. And yeah, if you want to have the best

    00:51:54.769 --> 00:51:57.550

    chance to pass to the next round, you kind of

    00:51:57.550 --> 00:52:00.150

    have to do the boulder too. I mean, the best

    00:52:00.150 --> 00:52:06.449

    is to not get it into your head. anyway you you

    00:52:06.449 --> 00:52:09.909

    kind of see it anyway like it's either you just

    00:52:09.909 --> 00:52:12.030

    close your eyes for the next five minutes or

    00:52:12.030 --> 00:52:16.150

    or you even even just hearing the the crowd like

    00:52:16.150 --> 00:52:19.269

    the crowd is pretty loud so even if you have

    00:52:19.269 --> 00:52:21.349

    like some special thing with noise cancelling

    00:52:21.349 --> 00:52:25.010

    you will hear it anyway so right so yeah it's

    00:52:25.010 --> 00:52:28.889

    yeah it's it's hard to to not get anything into

    00:52:28.889 --> 00:52:31.530

    your head but maybe sometimes it's better to

    00:52:31.530 --> 00:52:38.539

    try to like just let it into your head and just

    00:52:38.539 --> 00:52:41.820

    like knowing how to react on these situations

    00:52:41.820 --> 00:52:45.059

    then always try to avoid it and then like having

    00:52:45.059 --> 00:52:49.460

    to like like calm yourself again down or something

    00:52:49.460 --> 00:52:53.000

    because i think it's yeah what like i said it's

    00:52:53.000 --> 00:52:56.159

    impossible to not see it so it's better to to

    00:52:56.159 --> 00:52:58.699

    train how to react on these situations than to

    00:52:58.699 --> 00:53:02.079

    not trying to not see it Yeah, I guess, how do

    00:53:02.079 --> 00:53:05.699

    you train yourself to not react? Well, that's

    00:53:05.699 --> 00:53:11.699

    the hard thing. It's hard to train that, but

    00:53:11.699 --> 00:53:17.860

    I think one of the good strategies, I mean, one

    00:53:17.860 --> 00:53:20.039

    of the good training methods for sure is visualization.

    00:53:20.679 --> 00:53:25.699

    I feel like visualization is hard because it's

    00:53:25.699 --> 00:53:28.989

    not like... It's not like 100 meter sprint where

    00:53:28.989 --> 00:53:31.070

    you just like have to sprint and you're just

    00:53:31.070 --> 00:53:32.989

    going to visualize that you're ready for the

    00:53:32.989 --> 00:53:34.670

    sprint and you do the sprint and you win the

    00:53:34.670 --> 00:53:38.349

    sprint. Because when you visualize, try to do

    00:53:38.349 --> 00:53:41.650

    it as realistic as possible. Only when you do

    00:53:41.650 --> 00:53:45.349

    a boulder comp and lead comp also, you're not

    00:53:45.349 --> 00:53:47.789

    going to know the routes or boulders two weeks

    00:53:47.789 --> 00:53:51.289

    in advance. So having a perfect visualization

    00:53:51.289 --> 00:53:54.269

    of your comp is already impossible. So you kind

    00:53:54.269 --> 00:53:58.750

    of have to... visualize this situation. It's

    00:53:58.750 --> 00:54:03.710

    not always easy, but I still feel like this helps

    00:54:03.710 --> 00:54:11.130

    a lot. Also, I think the best thing is on simulations,

    00:54:11.170 --> 00:54:17.849

    just like training with good people who are possibly

    00:54:17.849 --> 00:54:21.550

    going to top the boulder before you or after

    00:54:21.550 --> 00:54:23.590

    you and putting yourself in these situations.

    00:54:24.320 --> 00:54:26.440

    And every time when you're in this situation,

    00:54:26.840 --> 00:54:30.440

    you really have to acknowledge that you're in

    00:54:30.440 --> 00:54:33.619

    this situation and then try to find the best

    00:54:33.619 --> 00:54:37.500

    method to handle it. Yeah, I don't exactly know

    00:54:37.500 --> 00:54:39.840

    that much about visualization. I thought that

    00:54:39.840 --> 00:54:42.719

    was more about when you see the boulder, like

    00:54:42.719 --> 00:54:46.960

    trying to see that like you on it and then you

    00:54:46.960 --> 00:54:49.300

    doing it. But you're saying like even way before

    00:54:49.300 --> 00:54:51.099

    the comp, you're just like imagining yourself

    00:54:51.099 --> 00:54:53.579

    winning the comp. Yeah, that's a different kind

    00:54:53.579 --> 00:54:56.280

    of visualization. That's really like trying to

    00:54:56.280 --> 00:54:59.800

    prepare your body or your mind, more like your

    00:54:59.800 --> 00:55:02.239

    mind for the competition that's coming. Like

    00:55:02.239 --> 00:55:06.840

    if you visualize, like, for example, like me,

    00:55:06.880 --> 00:55:09.619

    when I was at the Olympics, it was hard to concentrate.

    00:55:09.860 --> 00:55:12.139

    Like I was like blown away. Like I can say it's

    00:55:12.139 --> 00:55:14.559

    like I was like blown away of the comp. Yeah,

    00:55:14.599 --> 00:55:17.679

    that's like a huge event. And like, there was

    00:55:17.679 --> 00:55:21.940

    no way I could have like. known it was this big

    00:55:21.940 --> 00:55:26.059

    so if you like just go back like like i don't

    00:55:26.059 --> 00:55:28.400

    know like months before and you start like visualize

    00:55:28.400 --> 00:55:31.820

    like in your head like every like like multiple

    00:55:31.820 --> 00:55:34.840

    times a week you like visualize everything like

    00:55:34.840 --> 00:55:37.519

    the crowd the the impression you're gonna get

    00:55:37.519 --> 00:55:40.280

    like the fact that you're gonna get blown away

    00:55:40.280 --> 00:55:43.019

    but like every like you try to visualize all

    00:55:43.019 --> 00:55:46.539

    that like you kind of prepare yourself um that

    00:55:46.539 --> 00:55:49.480

    it doesn't feel like this first time anymore

    00:55:49.480 --> 00:55:52.260

    like it feels like you've already done it and

    00:55:52.260 --> 00:55:55.039

    yeah then you kind of know how to handle it it's

    00:55:55.039 --> 00:55:59.840

    i mean i'm still like i still it's hard and so

    00:55:59.840 --> 00:56:03.159

    i i can't do it like super good but i i'm pretty

    00:56:03.159 --> 00:56:06.239

    convinced that this method is like very good

    00:56:06.239 --> 00:56:09.500

    to prepare prepare for big competitions like

    00:56:09.500 --> 00:56:14.320

    just to not have this feeling of being the first

    00:56:14.320 --> 00:56:17.760

    time at this big event like yeah like overwhelmed

    00:56:17.760 --> 00:56:19.940

    i guess yeah yeah exactly yeah this is the word

    00:56:19.940 --> 00:56:22.500

    like not being overwhelmed because it will feel

    00:56:22.500 --> 00:56:25.019

    like you've already done it i mean you try to

    00:56:25.019 --> 00:56:26.940

    get the feeling that you have already done it

    00:56:26.940 --> 00:56:29.159

    yeah okay that's interesting i haven't heard

    00:56:29.159 --> 00:56:30.920

    that one before but i can see that how that would

    00:56:30.920 --> 00:56:33.599

    help yeah it's it's very hard because visualizing

    00:56:33.599 --> 00:56:36.719

    it's hard to keep the concentration while visualizing

    00:56:36.719 --> 00:56:40.900

    it's also hard to really know what to visualize,

    00:56:41.059 --> 00:56:44.139

    especially in bowlering or lead climbing because

    00:56:44.139 --> 00:56:45.840

    you don't know what you're going to get as a

    00:56:45.840 --> 00:56:49.340

    bowler. But I think it can help, especially when

    00:56:49.340 --> 00:56:52.340

    you know what kind of mistakes you're making,

    00:56:52.480 --> 00:56:54.739

    when you know what kind of thoughts you're getting

    00:56:54.739 --> 00:56:57.760

    when somebody before you top a bowler. So I think

    00:56:57.760 --> 00:57:00.519

    it can help for sure. One more thing about mindset.

    00:57:01.380 --> 00:57:04.780

    Correct me if I'm wrong, but in my mind, when

    00:57:04.780 --> 00:57:07.900

    I think of all the male competitors, I feel like

    00:57:07.900 --> 00:57:10.099

    you seem like one of the more angry competitors.

    00:57:10.699 --> 00:57:14.880

    Oh, really? Yeah. Do you feel like that's the

    00:57:14.880 --> 00:57:18.059

    case? I don't know. I don't feel angry at competitions.

    00:57:18.800 --> 00:57:22.780

    Maybe I look angry. I know my dad is a teacher

    00:57:22.780 --> 00:57:27.960

    and I went to the same school as my dad in high

    00:57:27.960 --> 00:57:30.659

    school. And I know everybody was always saying

    00:57:30.659 --> 00:57:34.079

    like, yeah, why? Like they were not saying it

    00:57:34.079 --> 00:57:36.679

    to me, but I heard it from my mom. But they were

    00:57:36.679 --> 00:57:40.239

    like, yeah, your dad is always like angry. Like

    00:57:40.239 --> 00:57:43.699

    why? And then my dad is like, yeah, but no, but

    00:57:43.699 --> 00:57:46.219

    I'm not angry. It's just like my face is just

    00:57:46.219 --> 00:57:51.239

    angry. So maybe my face is just angry. I don't

    00:57:51.239 --> 00:57:56.659

    know. But I know that I'm always in this serious

    00:57:56.659 --> 00:58:00.099

    mindset. I'm not like the one who is always like

    00:58:00.099 --> 00:58:02.139

    going to smile because it doesn't really help

    00:58:02.139 --> 00:58:05.239

    me for. Yeah, I think it's kind of some people

    00:58:05.239 --> 00:58:08.219

    like when they do a comp, they have to smile

    00:58:08.219 --> 00:58:12.300

    to do good. Or me, I think I'm just like a bit

    00:58:12.300 --> 00:58:15.519

    more serious when I do the comp. So I'm not always

    00:58:15.519 --> 00:58:20.480

    going to look very happy. But yeah, I'm definitely

    00:58:20.480 --> 00:58:24.059

    not angry all the time. Okay, that's good to

    00:58:24.059 --> 00:58:25.679

    know. I mean, it depends. There are for sure

    00:58:25.679 --> 00:58:28.559

    situations where I'm angry, but yeah. And I don't

    00:58:28.559 --> 00:58:31.420

    think I get upset like very fast at competitions.

    00:58:32.059 --> 00:58:34.679

    Yeah, I'll maybe have to look through and think

    00:58:34.679 --> 00:58:37.460

    about what times I remembered you being angry.

    00:58:37.500 --> 00:58:40.099

    I was like, oh my God, that's really scary. I

    00:58:40.099 --> 00:58:42.619

    guess, well, I don't think you looked specifically

    00:58:42.619 --> 00:58:45.400

    angry in this example, but there was that one

    00:58:45.400 --> 00:58:47.559

    time where you did a backflip after you couldn't

    00:58:47.559 --> 00:58:50.199

    do the climb. Yeah, I don't know. I don't know.

    00:58:50.380 --> 00:58:53.539

    It's funny because I was just doing like a random

    00:58:53.539 --> 00:58:56.320

    session in Paris and there were like three different

    00:58:56.320 --> 00:58:58.860

    guys. who came to me like, yeah, you're the guy

    00:58:58.860 --> 00:59:02.880

    from the backflip. And I was like, what? I guess

    00:59:02.880 --> 00:59:05.059

    it's something that I understand. I mean, also

    00:59:05.059 --> 00:59:08.019

    with this backflip that comes, it's kind of special

    00:59:08.019 --> 00:59:10.739

    to do it. And I don't really know why I did it.

    00:59:11.920 --> 00:59:15.699

    I guess I remember I came pretty close to sticking

    00:59:15.699 --> 00:59:19.719

    this pinch boulder. And I don't know, at one

    00:59:19.719 --> 00:59:22.639

    point I come down and I think I was like, just

    00:59:22.639 --> 00:59:26.010

    like full of like... adrenaline that I like kind

    00:59:26.010 --> 00:59:28.869

    of didn't control myself and I like just jumped

    00:59:28.869 --> 00:59:32.349

    up and did like a backflip just out of like yeah

    00:59:32.349 --> 00:59:34.869

    just because I had like full of adrenaline and

    00:59:34.869 --> 00:59:36.869

    I had to do something and I knew my time was

    00:59:36.869 --> 00:59:41.090

    up and I was like yeah like yeah yeah I wish

    00:59:41.090 --> 00:59:44.130

    I just had topped the boulders Yeah, I know.

    00:59:44.570 --> 00:59:47.269

    No, I mean, I wish you had done it. But yeah,

    00:59:47.329 --> 00:59:49.170

    when you came off and did that, I was just like,

    00:59:49.190 --> 00:59:52.670

    oh, it's like the backflip of anger. Yeah, yeah,

    00:59:52.690 --> 00:59:54.469

    no, I was definitely, I mean, I was, yeah, it

    00:59:54.469 --> 00:59:56.949

    was more like out of like, just like being full

    00:59:56.949 --> 00:59:59.849

    of adrenaline being like, like, why did I like,

    00:59:59.869 --> 01:00:02.090

    like, how did it happen? I let go, you know,

    01:00:02.090 --> 01:00:04.750

    it's like, it's like, it's like, you know, when

    01:00:04.750 --> 01:00:07.050

    you see Adam, Adam Ondra, when he cups the ball,

    01:00:07.110 --> 01:00:09.670

    or he's like, jumping around everywhere, you

    01:00:09.670 --> 01:00:11.940

    know, it's like. kind of like this like you just

    01:00:11.940 --> 01:00:13.920

    like pull up this adrenaline and you don't know

    01:00:13.920 --> 01:00:16.719

    what to do with your body anymore so it just

    01:00:16.719 --> 01:00:19.880

    things happen like randomly so yeah that makes

    01:00:19.880 --> 01:00:22.619

    sense uh before we go into more audience questions

    01:00:22.619 --> 01:00:28.300

    um in terms of non -climbing or um yeah anything

    01:00:28.300 --> 01:00:30.079

    that you do outside of climbing and competing

    01:00:30.079 --> 01:00:32.679

    um especially because you're still healing from

    01:00:32.679 --> 01:00:35.199

    your injury for like the next six weeks yeah

    01:00:35.199 --> 01:00:36.980

    what do you like to spend your time doing what

    01:00:36.980 --> 01:00:40.059

    are you going to do in the next six weeks Yeah,

    01:00:40.159 --> 01:00:43.019

    hard question. I mean, the operation was quite

    01:00:43.019 --> 01:00:45.820

    recently. It was like Wednesday. Some days have

    01:00:45.820 --> 01:00:49.699

    passed. I went on holiday with my parents because

    01:00:49.699 --> 01:00:54.880

    they happened to go on holiday just now. So I

    01:00:54.880 --> 01:00:59.719

    joined them. What I'm going to do, it's a hard

    01:00:59.719 --> 01:01:03.260

    question. I mean, I live with six other people.

    01:01:03.960 --> 01:01:09.239

    Oh my gosh. I live with five other people. They're

    01:01:09.239 --> 01:01:13.360

    all climbers. But yeah, I mean, for sure, there

    01:01:13.360 --> 01:01:16.400

    are always people here. So I will never like

    01:01:16.400 --> 01:01:18.940

    be lonely. Like every time I'm eating, like somebody

    01:01:18.940 --> 01:01:21.960

    is there. The climbing gym is not that far away.

    01:01:22.039 --> 01:01:24.679

    So I can always go there. I know quite some people

    01:01:24.679 --> 01:01:27.900

    there. I mean, I still do have to train. Like

    01:01:27.900 --> 01:01:31.860

    I cannot just like relax and chill for the next

    01:01:31.860 --> 01:01:36.260

    six weeks. I have to... go to another town where

    01:01:36.260 --> 01:01:40.340

    my physio is so i have to go like three or four

    01:01:40.340 --> 01:01:45.380

    times to the physio i will start like exercises

    01:01:45.380 --> 01:01:49.920

    uh yeah without the elbow um so yeah that's for

    01:01:49.920 --> 01:01:53.980

    like training part when i won't be training um

    01:01:53.980 --> 01:01:58.579

    and then i'm kind of a lot into sports so i always

    01:01:58.579 --> 01:02:04.679

    try to find like more active um solutions so

    01:02:04.679 --> 01:02:07.920

    I already went because my little brother he's

    01:02:07.920 --> 01:02:13.940

    like he liked to do tennis so I hope I can I

    01:02:13.940 --> 01:02:17.579

    hope I will be able to do some tennis with him

    01:02:17.579 --> 01:02:20.960

    just like with one hand like single hand backhand

    01:02:20.960 --> 01:02:25.039

    but yeah he's pretty good so he kind of teaches

    01:02:25.039 --> 01:02:27.699

    me Vasta and he teaches me a bit how to do the

    01:02:27.699 --> 01:02:32.110

    tennis yeah if not Yeah, I don't know. I have

    01:02:32.110 --> 01:02:34.789

    a PlayStation 5 here, so I guess I will just

    01:02:34.789 --> 01:02:39.630

    be gaming. Nothing really special. Yeah, it's

    01:02:39.630 --> 01:02:44.010

    hard. I've tried to think about a lot of things,

    01:02:44.090 --> 01:02:47.750

    but a lot of things you just need two arms. Yeah,

    01:02:47.750 --> 01:02:51.409

    that's true, actually. I mean, I'm currently

    01:02:51.409 --> 01:02:54.369

    working on my driving license and I can't move

    01:02:54.369 --> 01:03:00.449

    my arms. I mean, I think in Belgium, The wheel

    01:03:00.449 --> 01:03:02.789

    is on the left side. I don't know, in America,

    01:03:02.949 --> 01:03:08.789

    on the right or left side? It's on the left side,

    01:03:08.849 --> 01:03:11.289

    yeah. Okay, yeah. Okay, so anyway, then it's

    01:03:11.289 --> 01:03:15.230

    the same. But yeah, so I can do the... How do

    01:03:15.230 --> 01:03:20.630

    you say the changing of numbers? Oh, the... The

    01:03:20.630 --> 01:03:22.090

    gear. Like the gear shifting? Yeah, the gear

    01:03:22.090 --> 01:03:26.630

    shifting. Oh, you don't have automatic. No, I

    01:03:26.630 --> 01:03:29.150

    mean, to pass the exam, it's better to do it

    01:03:29.150 --> 01:03:33.250

    on manual because then I can do both. Yeah. So,

    01:03:33.250 --> 01:03:42.710

    yeah. Anyway, I can drive a bit. So actually,

    01:03:42.889 --> 01:03:45.610

    yesterday we tried, but I got in the argument

    01:03:45.610 --> 01:03:47.989

    with my dad and so I couldn't drive for my dad

    01:03:47.989 --> 01:03:53.010

    anymore. So he was pushing too much. Oh, I get

    01:03:53.010 --> 01:03:55.650

    that. Oh, yeah. Teaching a kid how to drive,

    01:03:55.750 --> 01:03:58.530

    I think, it's a stressful process. Yeah, I can

    01:03:58.530 --> 01:04:03.730

    imagine. So, yeah. So, yeah. I tried to do that.

    01:04:03.949 --> 01:04:08.090

    And for the rest, I mean, I will go watch some

    01:04:08.090 --> 01:04:10.449

    competitions, actually. There are some competitions

    01:04:10.449 --> 01:04:14.929

    coming up. Like, there is the Tokyo Sessions

    01:04:14.929 --> 01:04:18.289

    in Amsterdam, which is not super far. And there

    01:04:18.289 --> 01:04:22.949

    will be, like, I think Sota will be there. Okata

    01:04:22.949 --> 01:04:27.170

    will be there Mao so I think I will go watch

    01:04:27.170 --> 01:04:30.909

    that which will be quite fun there will be the

    01:04:30.909 --> 01:04:34.409

    team bowler arena which is like the duo competition

    01:04:34.409 --> 01:04:38.730

    in France I think I'll go watch that too because

    01:04:38.730 --> 01:04:43.030

    yeah France with like the French team quite of

    01:04:43.030 --> 01:04:47.250

    the French team and so yeah just go watch that

    01:04:47.250 --> 01:04:51.079

    also some people who I live with in Brussels

    01:04:51.079 --> 01:04:55.179

    they will go do the events so yeah I guess I

    01:04:55.179 --> 01:04:59.000

    just train like yeah just go watch competitions

    01:04:59.000 --> 01:05:01.719

    or things like that still a lot of climbing then

    01:05:01.719 --> 01:05:05.340

    yeah I hope so just doing one hand climbing yeah

    01:05:05.340 --> 01:05:10.199

    doing some slabs more slab work okay cool and

    01:05:10.199 --> 01:05:13.079

    then I guess your goals for 2026 do you have

    01:05:13.079 --> 01:05:17.030

    anything in mind for next season Well, yeah,

    01:05:17.130 --> 01:05:20.389

    I still haven't won a World Cup, so I would really

    01:05:20.389 --> 01:05:23.210

    like to. I mean, I'm still young, so there's

    01:05:23.210 --> 01:05:26.590

    still a lot of time, but I hope I can win a World

    01:05:26.590 --> 01:05:31.730

    Cup this year. It will be amazing. My goal eventually,

    01:05:31.949 --> 01:05:34.389

    I really hope to become Olympic champion one

    01:05:34.389 --> 01:05:38.050

    day. I mean, I have to start with the World Cup.

    01:05:39.449 --> 01:05:43.489

    So yeah, I think that's the biggest goal for

    01:05:43.489 --> 01:05:47.380

    next year. Also, the European Championships will

    01:05:47.380 --> 01:05:53.920

    be in Brussels. So that's pretty big. So it's

    01:05:53.920 --> 01:05:55.659

    going to be the beginning of the season. I don't

    01:05:55.659 --> 01:05:57.699

    know how it will be with the recovery of the

    01:05:57.699 --> 01:06:01.059

    yellow ball. But yeah, I'll try to do my best

    01:06:01.059 --> 01:06:04.480

    there. And it's for sure going to be a big goal

    01:06:04.480 --> 01:06:10.860

    to win there. So yeah, that's the thing. I also

    01:06:10.860 --> 01:06:13.159

    hope to still be able to compete in the lead.

    01:06:15.619 --> 01:06:18.900

    Now I will have done less lead than I normally

    01:06:18.900 --> 01:06:23.280

    do. So I guess I'll see how that goes. Also,

    01:06:23.340 --> 01:06:27.059

    I have quite some outdoor projects. Mike Yannick,

    01:06:27.159 --> 01:06:30.340

    he just did the second descent of Rastaman migration

    01:06:30.340 --> 01:06:36.920

    in Seuss. I've tried with him like sometimes

    01:06:36.920 --> 01:06:39.940

    and yeah, I hope I will be able to send that.

    01:06:40.019 --> 01:06:42.739

    That will be really amazing, yeah. Okay, best

    01:06:42.739 --> 01:06:44.539

    of luck to you there. Thank you. Hopefully it

    01:06:44.539 --> 01:06:48.380

    will be a good 2026 for you. I hope so too. So

    01:06:48.380 --> 01:06:52.199

    then, yeah, before we end things, we have a few

    01:06:52.199 --> 01:06:55.920

    more audience -submitted questions left. We'll

    01:06:55.920 --> 01:06:58.280

    get into some of those now. So the first one,

    01:06:58.460 --> 01:07:01.219

    would love some insight into the language situation

    01:07:01.219 --> 01:07:05.239

    in Team Belgium. You're Flemish, but most of

    01:07:05.239 --> 01:07:08.139

    the team is French -speaking. Is that ever challenging

    01:07:08.139 --> 01:07:13.349

    for you? Not anymore. I mean, now I'm quite okay

    01:07:13.349 --> 01:07:16.949

    with French. In the beginning, I was challenging.

    01:07:17.250 --> 01:07:21.289

    In the beginning, I mean, when I was very young,

    01:07:21.349 --> 01:07:23.550

    I didn't speak English. I didn't speak French.

    01:07:23.670 --> 01:07:29.369

    I only spoke Dutch. But yeah, there were a lot

    01:07:29.369 --> 01:07:33.929

    of French -speaking people, a lot of French -speaking

    01:07:33.929 --> 01:07:36.750

    people. Also, the coaches and the adult team,

    01:07:36.889 --> 01:07:40.150

    now it's... My coach is now on the adult team.

    01:07:40.309 --> 01:07:46.469

    I mean, yeah, often. She's Flemish, but before

    01:07:46.469 --> 01:07:49.590

    it was mostly French. So in the beginning it

    01:07:49.590 --> 01:07:53.489

    was quite hard also to communicate with the athletes.

    01:07:53.630 --> 01:07:57.230

    Like I had to learn English. So it was not always

    01:07:57.230 --> 01:07:59.510

    easy. But luckily in Belgium, I think it's quite

    01:07:59.510 --> 01:08:02.150

    easy to learn English since we're not really

    01:08:02.150 --> 01:08:07.239

    a country that like... dub all the all the movies

    01:08:07.239 --> 01:08:11.139

    we kind of we kind of watch the movies in English

    01:08:11.139 --> 01:08:16.880

    I mean just in the original language so so yeah

    01:08:16.880 --> 01:08:20.359

    it's I think in Belgium it's very like almost

    01:08:20.359 --> 01:08:24.199

    especially in Flanders I mean as you have said

    01:08:24.199 --> 01:08:26.819

    like the Flemish part don't dub the French part

    01:08:26.819 --> 01:08:31.819

    they they put everything in French but yeah a

    01:08:31.819 --> 01:08:35.140

    lot of Flemish people speak English So luckily

    01:08:35.140 --> 01:08:38.720

    I learned English pretty good. French, I have

    01:08:38.720 --> 01:08:42.340

    always got on school too. And once I went to

    01:08:42.340 --> 01:08:44.760

    the Belgium team and I started hearing all the

    01:08:44.760 --> 01:08:47.619

    French, I started trying to speak French. And

    01:08:47.619 --> 01:08:51.359

    now it's okay. But yeah, when you do like team

    01:08:51.359 --> 01:08:53.279

    meetings in the Belgian team, mostly it's in

    01:08:53.279 --> 01:08:58.420

    English. Also, it's kind of a habit to speak

    01:08:58.420 --> 01:09:00.539

    with some English, with some I speak French.

    01:09:00.600 --> 01:09:03.479

    It depends. For example, when I speak with Nico,

    01:09:03.699 --> 01:09:08.880

    even though I speak perfectly, that I speak good

    01:09:08.880 --> 01:09:12.000

    French, we just have the habit to speak English

    01:09:12.000 --> 01:09:15.539

    because we kind of go back to the time that I

    01:09:15.539 --> 01:09:17.399

    didn't speak French and I spoke better English.

    01:09:17.600 --> 01:09:20.279

    So with him, I always speak English. But when

    01:09:20.279 --> 01:09:23.579

    I speak with a French team, it's always going

    01:09:23.579 --> 01:09:26.899

    to be in French now. So yeah, it depends on people.

    01:09:27.560 --> 01:09:30.840

    But yeah, right now, it's not really a problem.

    01:09:31.430 --> 01:09:34.050

    Yeah, okay. That's good to know. Being in the

    01:09:34.050 --> 01:09:36.689

    US, that's all very... I don't even think about

    01:09:36.689 --> 01:09:39.130

    other people having to speak different languages.

    01:09:39.449 --> 01:09:42.829

    Yeah, I guess it's easy, yeah. Next one. Do you

    01:09:42.829 --> 01:09:45.829

    think calisthenics or gymnastics training is

    01:09:45.829 --> 01:09:49.489

    necessary now in comp climbing? Well, I've thought

    01:09:49.489 --> 01:09:55.680

    about it and I have the feeling like... The time

    01:09:55.680 --> 01:09:59.659

    you can spend on gymnastics or other things,

    01:09:59.779 --> 01:10:01.920

    you can as well just spend on your wall doing

    01:10:01.920 --> 01:10:05.100

    coordination. So I'm not really the biggest fan

    01:10:05.100 --> 01:10:08.859

    of doing like the coordination training outside

    01:10:08.859 --> 01:10:15.960

    of climbing. So yeah, I would say no, but I mean,

    01:10:16.119 --> 01:10:21.079

    climbing is still like not the most developed

    01:10:21.079 --> 01:10:26.760

    sports. I wouldn't be surprised if it actually

    01:10:26.760 --> 01:10:30.380

    can help. But for the moment, I've not heard

    01:10:30.380 --> 01:10:33.880

    of anybody or I've not seen any exercises that

    01:10:33.880 --> 01:10:36.520

    I would say, okay, that can actually like help

    01:10:36.520 --> 01:10:39.340

    for coordination. So yeah, like I said, I think

    01:10:39.340 --> 01:10:42.640

    the time for the moment, my opinion is more like

    01:10:42.640 --> 01:10:45.819

    the time you can, you spend on gymnastics, you

    01:10:45.819 --> 01:10:49.640

    can just spend on the climbing or the coordinations.

    01:10:50.140 --> 01:10:52.199

    Yeah, I guess that makes sense. You don't think

    01:10:52.199 --> 01:10:54.500

    any of your gymnastics training before the age

    01:10:54.500 --> 01:10:58.060

    of seven helped with your climbing? Yeah, I mean,

    01:10:58.159 --> 01:11:02.220

    seven is very young, you know, so I don't even

    01:11:02.220 --> 01:11:06.319

    remember what I was doing. But yeah, I've always

    01:11:06.319 --> 01:11:08.319

    done gymnastics at school too because I was in

    01:11:08.319 --> 01:11:11.539

    a sport. I was doing sports at school and I've

    01:11:11.539 --> 01:11:15.579

    done two hours of gymnastics. So there I saw

    01:11:15.579 --> 01:11:19.079

    automatically like I'm... better than the average

    01:11:19.079 --> 01:11:21.460

    student in gymnastics just because it's kind

    01:11:21.460 --> 01:11:26.819

    of the same muscles um so but yeah when I was

    01:11:26.819 --> 01:11:29.819

    seven I don't even remember what I did so I thought

    01:11:29.819 --> 01:11:32.819

    I thought that it's gonna be it's gonna have

    01:11:32.819 --> 01:11:36.970

    made a big difference Okay, last one. Well, there

    01:11:36.970 --> 01:11:39.390

    were two, but they are kind of similar, and they're

    01:11:39.390 --> 01:11:43.050

    both about slab climbing, of course. People say

    01:11:43.050 --> 01:11:46.189

    that slab climbing needs a climber to stay calm,

    01:11:46.489 --> 01:11:49.710

    especially during competitions. So how do you

    01:11:49.710 --> 01:11:52.550

    stay calm on slab? And then the other one was

    01:11:52.550 --> 01:11:56.109

    someone, I think, who also competes in climbing.

    01:11:56.649 --> 01:11:58.689

    How do you get better at slabs, specifically

    01:11:58.689 --> 01:12:01.210

    in competitions, because it's hard to relax?

    01:12:01.899 --> 01:12:05.920

    Yeah, it's very important to stay calm. I see

    01:12:05.920 --> 01:12:11.319

    also myself slabs that I don't do. Like often

    01:12:11.319 --> 01:12:13.859

    it's when you don't stay calm or you're like

    01:12:13.859 --> 01:12:16.960

    kind of want to grab things that are not there,

    01:12:17.039 --> 01:12:19.239

    especially like when you have like this edges

    01:12:19.239 --> 01:12:22.939

    on the volumes, like you're always tend to take

    01:12:22.939 --> 01:12:26.939

    them, but often it's, or sometimes it's not better.

    01:12:27.000 --> 01:12:29.699

    Like you're just going to put yourself in. in

    01:12:29.699 --> 01:12:34.220

    bad positions so yes staying calm on the slab

    01:12:34.220 --> 01:12:36.560

    is one of the most important also one of the

    01:12:36.560 --> 01:12:40.500

    most the hardest parts and i think it's like

    01:12:40.500 --> 01:12:45.159

    i said this being aware that you're not not calm

    01:12:45.159 --> 01:12:49.420

    enough so you can adapt to the situation when

    01:12:49.420 --> 01:12:52.539

    you're not calm it's mostly because you you don't

    01:12:52.539 --> 01:12:56.420

    trust your feet and then or something like this,

    01:12:56.520 --> 01:12:59.060

    or you feel like you're going to fall off, and

    01:12:59.060 --> 01:13:02.600

    then you just have to realize, okay, what's the

    01:13:02.600 --> 01:13:04.539

    worst thing that can happen when you just fall

    01:13:04.539 --> 01:13:08.300

    off? The worst thing can maybe break your foot,

    01:13:08.340 --> 01:13:14.779

    but probably not. Terrible, okay. Yeah, but okay,

    01:13:14.880 --> 01:13:17.060

    that's maybe bad to say when you want to help

    01:13:17.060 --> 01:13:19.939

    somebody, but probably you're not going to break

    01:13:19.939 --> 01:13:25.720

    your foot. So if you just try and and you just

    01:13:25.720 --> 01:13:31.380

    go for the move, then you will feel that it's

    01:13:31.380 --> 01:13:34.439

    staying. I mean, every boulder is tested, every

    01:13:34.439 --> 01:13:39.159

    boulder works. So you're just trusting everything.

    01:13:39.439 --> 01:13:43.899

    It's hard to give better advice than that feeling.

    01:13:44.460 --> 01:13:49.560

    Just feel it and trust it. Yeah. I've also, I

    01:13:49.560 --> 01:13:52.619

    know already like often when I don't do a slap,

    01:13:52.779 --> 01:13:55.479

    it's just like, you don't stay calm. You don't

    01:13:55.479 --> 01:13:58.579

    trust the feet. Like you want to rush too much,

    01:13:58.579 --> 01:14:03.279

    but it's just about trying to do the move. And

    01:14:03.279 --> 01:14:05.399

    once you try to do a move, maybe you fall off,

    01:14:05.439 --> 01:14:08.500

    but then you can like adapt to the move. If you're

    01:14:08.500 --> 01:14:11.289

    not trusting it. Like you're like two steps behind,

    01:14:11.430 --> 01:14:13.350

    like first you have to trust it, then you can

    01:14:13.350 --> 01:14:16.229

    start learning the moves. And then I guess, especially

    01:14:16.229 --> 01:14:18.310

    with like the time pressure and competitions

    01:14:18.310 --> 01:14:21.810

    on slab, because it's like a slower climb too.

    01:14:22.109 --> 01:14:28.649

    Yeah, it is. For me, it kind of helped to put

    01:14:28.649 --> 01:14:32.010

    myself into those situations. Like I get a slab

    01:14:32.010 --> 01:14:34.810

    and I just put like, instead of five minutes,

    01:14:34.850 --> 01:14:37.170

    you put like one minute and then you're just

    01:14:37.170 --> 01:14:41.729

    gonna. know you're under time pressure, but at

    01:14:41.729 --> 01:14:47.170

    least you know you're going to be under time

    01:14:47.170 --> 01:14:50.869

    pressure and you're going to learn how to stay

    01:14:50.869 --> 01:14:54.649

    calm. It's very easy, but you're just going to

    01:14:54.649 --> 01:14:56.770

    learn it like this, I think. I guess, do you

    01:14:56.770 --> 01:15:00.069

    remember that Rockmaster's Slab Top? That was

    01:15:00.069 --> 01:15:02.750

    kind of like a buzzer beater, right? Yeah, that

    01:15:02.750 --> 01:15:06.989

    was crazy. What were you thinking on that last

    01:15:06.989 --> 01:15:09.819

    try? I was thinking it's over, actually, because

    01:15:09.819 --> 01:15:13.359

    I was getting eliminated if I didn't pass the

    01:15:13.359 --> 01:15:17.399

    move. Because I don't know why, but I just slipped

    01:15:17.399 --> 01:15:20.300

    two times in the beginning. And then I just watched,

    01:15:20.520 --> 01:15:25.159

    I think Yannick did the move. And so I just watched

    01:15:25.159 --> 01:15:27.180

    him and I was like, okay, for sure it's going

    01:15:27.180 --> 01:15:31.739

    to feel bad. But, I mean, if I don't commit to

    01:15:31.739 --> 01:15:35.260

    it, it's finished. It's over. Like, I'm going

    01:15:35.260 --> 01:15:41.520

    out. I just tried to stay calm. I just, I just

    01:15:41.520 --> 01:15:44.560

    tried to feel and yeah, put my feet through and

    01:15:44.560 --> 01:15:47.060

    I put it on hold. And as I expected, it didn't

    01:15:47.060 --> 01:15:50.279

    feel good, but I knew like, okay, you, you can

    01:15:50.279 --> 01:15:52.840

    stand on the feet. So I just slowly, it's, it's

    01:15:52.840 --> 01:15:55.279

    all about like finding the right balance between

    01:15:55.279 --> 01:16:01.000

    like going slow and moving your, moving your

    01:16:01.000 --> 01:16:04.760

    weight to the other foot, but not too fast. And

    01:16:04.760 --> 01:16:08.420

    just. keep feeling and feeling. And at one moment,

    01:16:08.479 --> 01:16:11.060

    like you, you feel when you can go on the other

    01:16:11.060 --> 01:16:14.260

    foot and it's kind of just, it's, it was just

    01:16:14.260 --> 01:16:18.800

    about this, just like feeling when it's the time

    01:16:18.800 --> 01:16:22.100

    to just put it all on this one feet. And yeah,

    01:16:22.159 --> 01:16:24.180

    it's just like, I thought about it, how it was

    01:16:24.180 --> 01:16:27.279

    going to feel and it felt like that. And yeah,

    01:16:27.340 --> 01:16:31.779

    then it worked out. So, so yeah, it's, it's,

    01:16:31.779 --> 01:16:36.159

    yeah, it was crazy. Just the slap. It worked

    01:16:36.159 --> 01:16:40.220

    out. Yeah. It was cool to see. So I think, yeah,

    01:16:40.319 --> 01:16:42.739

    that's all the questions I had today then. Thanks

    01:16:42.739 --> 01:16:46.539

    for joining me. Any like last minute words of

    01:16:46.539 --> 01:16:48.520

    wisdom you want to get out there? It's really,

    01:16:48.600 --> 01:16:51.039

    I have the feeling, I already now have the feeling

    01:16:51.039 --> 01:16:53.840

    people expect to say, to give some wisdom words

    01:16:53.840 --> 01:16:56.199

    about Slab Clan, but I really don't have anything

    01:16:56.199 --> 01:16:59.020

    more. No, I mean, I think your Slab tips were

    01:16:59.020 --> 01:17:01.430

    good. When you really want to improve slab climbing,

    01:17:01.630 --> 01:17:04.510

    you should just go to France probably. It's the

    01:17:04.510 --> 01:17:08.010

    best place to train slab climbing. Okay. No,

    01:17:08.090 --> 01:17:11.489

    that totally works. That's good. And where can

    01:17:11.489 --> 01:17:14.949

    people find you if they want to reach out? Yeah,

    01:17:14.989 --> 01:17:18.949

    probably on Instagram. I mean, I'm not always

    01:17:18.949 --> 01:17:22.390

    responding because I always forget to look at

    01:17:22.390 --> 01:17:27.069

    the request. Because Instagram put an update

    01:17:27.069 --> 01:17:29.489

    and you don't see the numbers of how many requests

    01:17:29.489 --> 01:17:31.710

    we have anymore. So now you have to really think

    01:17:31.710 --> 01:17:35.989

    about it. But yeah, I mean, if they have a question,

    01:17:36.029 --> 01:17:38.930

    they can just reach me on Instagram. I try to

    01:17:38.930 --> 01:17:42.060

    respond. Okay, cool. Well, awesome. Thank you

    01:17:42.060 --> 01:17:44.220

    again. And it was amazing to talk to you. Yeah,

    01:17:44.260 --> 01:17:46.819

    no worries. What's fun to do. Thank you so much

    01:17:46.819 --> 01:17:49.300

    for making it to the end of the podcast. Don't

    01:17:49.300 --> 01:17:51.300

    forget to like and subscribe if you enjoyed.

    01:17:51.520 --> 01:17:55.140

    Otherwise, you are a super big climber. If you're

    01:17:55.140 --> 01:17:57.579

    listening on a podcasting platform, I'd appreciate

    01:17:57.579 --> 01:18:00.300

    if you rate it five stars and you can continue

    01:18:00.300 --> 01:18:03.100

    the discussion on the free competition climbing

    01:18:03.100 --> 01:18:06.079

    discord linked in the description. Thanks again

    01:18:06.079 --> 01:18:06.560

    for listening.

Jinni Xia
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49: Ben Hanna, USA Bouldering + Hold Shaper