51: Declan Osgood & Zoe Yi, Fukuoka team climbers

Written By Jinni Xia

Declan and Zoe just competed at the Fukuoka exhibition team event for team USA where they climbed in all 5 boulder and lead rounds! In this episode, we’ll learn about their unorthodox climbing training program here in San Diego, how team selection and strategy worked at Fukuoka, and whether there was added pressure climbing with a team and coach present.

Timestamps

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:23 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:03 - Getting into climbing and competing

6:14 - Strength training BAD?!?!

10:18 - Fukuoka experience and USA Team selection process

14:28 - Difficulty of the boulders

18:06 - Pressure of team climbing and coaching

23:51 - Team competition strategy

28:08 - 5 events in 3 days

31:06 - First time competing on IFSC livestream

35:34 - World cup climbing is uncomfortable

40:23 - Boulder vs lead preference

44:37 - Putting pressure on Zoe’s education plans

49:36 - Now we’re just glazing San Diego

54:41 - AUDIENCE Q: Anything you’d change about the event?

57:06 - Gender combined format thoughts

59:01 - AUDIENCE Q: Memories/advice from youth training

1:02:17 - Being called the benchwarmers’ benchwarmers

1:03:08 - Outdoor goals

1:05:18 - AUDIENCE Q: Beating Elden Ring

1:06:28 - Relationship advice from 18 year olds

1:09:13 - Shoutouts and where to find Declan + Zoe

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    Like five rounds in three days. Oh, gosh. Yeah.

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    Do you feel, like, not as strong as other climbers?

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    For sure. Yeah. I feel pretty weak all the time.

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    We can't do one arm. Okay. I, like, brag about

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    how weak I am. Yeah, I take a lot of pride in

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    that. There was a comment on it that said that

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    Japan brought the Avengers. Yeah. And then the

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    U .S. brought the Benchwarmers Benchwarmers.

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    Relationship advice. Yeah, let's get your guys'

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    relationship advice. Welcome to another episode

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    of the That's Not Real Climbing podcast. I'm

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    your host, Jinni, and I'm excited to introduce

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    my guests for today, Declan Osgood and Zoe Yi.

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    Declan and Zoe just competed at the Fukuoka Exhibition

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    Team Event for Team USA, where they climbed in

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    all five boulder and lead rounds. In this episode,

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    we'll learn about their unorthodox climbing training

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    program here in San Diego, how team selection

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    and strategy worked at Fukuoka, and whether there

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    was added pressure climbing with a team and coach

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    present. This is my first time doing an in -person

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    recording with two guests. So sorry for the strange

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    audio mixing in certain parts, but I hope you

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    can enjoy this interview with Declan and Zoe.

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    for helping to sponsor the podcast. Now, back

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    to the show. Okay, how are you guys doing? How

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    did you brave the rain? Good. I almost died driving

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    here. Yeah. Me too. It was pretty scary. Sorry

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    for scheduling it on this day. It's okay. But

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    it might be a good thing because there's like

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    nothing else to do anyway. Yeah. Yeah. There

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    were, like, a lot of people who didn't have their

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    lights on while driving, and I hated that. I

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    was just following one car the entire time because

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    I couldn't see the, like... Yeah, in front. Yeah.

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    Please tell me you guys have your lights on while

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    driving. Yeah. Yeah, yeah. Good. Okay, cool.

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    Well, then, let's get right into it. So, how

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    did you guys both get into climbing and competing,

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    first of all? You can go first. I went to a summer

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    camp. When I was eight at the wall climbing gym,

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    and then they told me to join the team. So I

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    joined the team and started competing after that.

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    They, like, knew right off the bat that you were

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    something special or what? I don't know. Okay.

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    Prodigy. Yeah. I was pretty similar, but it was

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    a birthday party. It was actually my brother's

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    birthday party. And then after that, my dad got

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    into climbing. Oh. And then I just kind of went

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    with him to the climbing gym. I joined, like,

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    the local team, but there was only, like, one

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    practice a week, so we didn't train very much.

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    And then I didn't start competing until I moved

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    to San Diego. Okay, that makes sense. Where I

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    joined, like, Mesa. Oh. Oh, I didn't know that

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    you were part of it. Yeah, yeah. I joined Mesa

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    on, like, the competitive team and then started

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    competing. And does your dad still climb? Yeah,

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    yeah. Is he good? He's gotten better throughout

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    the years. Okay. Yeah. So that's a no then? There

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    was a time where he was better than me, but that

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    didn't last very long. Okay. How hard would you

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    say he climbs? At Mission Valley, the grades

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    are pretty hard, so maybe V5. Okay. That's pretty

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    good. Yeah. Mission Valley V5s are pretty hard.

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    Yeah. Oh, for real. I get that. Yeah. Does anyone

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    in your family climb? Uh, no, my dad climbs like

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    once a year, but yeah, I was, I was on the wall

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    climbing team for a couple of years and then

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    I joined Mesa rim. So we were on the same team

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    for a bit and then we both joined class five.

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    Yeah. It all comes back to the wall. Uh, 2021.

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    Yeah. It all comes back to the wall. Okay. Yeah.

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    So do you both still like train with class five

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    at all or? Cause you guys aren't like on the

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    youth team anymore. No, it's not really a youth

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    team. Oh. It's more like an adult. It's not really

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    a team. It's a community, really. Yeah, okay.

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    Tell me more about class five, because, like,

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    I always thought it was just a youth team, but

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    it's just a team of people. But it used to be

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    a youth team. Okay. But now that we're non -youth,

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    it's no longer a youth team. Like, a lot of people

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    aged out of youth and, like, moved away for college

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    and stuff. Yeah. Now it's Al, our coach, and

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    then the two of us, and then two more, Phoebe

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    and Alina, who are kind of on the team. Oh, okay.

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    You guys never recruited, like, newer people?

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    No, but do you know SDCA? SDCA? No. It's like

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    a new youth team that kind of came out of Class

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    5. Oh, I haven't heard of it. It's not Class

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    5, but it's similar ideas. Yeah. It's David and

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    Marco. Okay. But they're kind of the youth team

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    at the wall. Okay. And then we're kind of, like,

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    the adult team, kind of. Interesting. Like, we

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    train at the same time. Yeah. We're not running

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    together. Okay. So they're not in it for, like,

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    I guess technically youth teams are, like, a

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    business, really. So it's more just about the

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    love of the game. Class 5 is a business. Okay.

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    Well, I also know, like, who is it? I always

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    see, like, Ross and... Oh, my God, what's her

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    name? Kylie, wearing, like, Class 5 shirts. Yeah,

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    they're also Class 5. Okay, but they, like, graduated

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    and have gone away. Yeah, they don't really practice

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    with us. Interesting. Well, that's a bit unconventional,

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    and you guys also mentioned that your training

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    is a bit unconventional. So, like, first of all,

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    what is, like, a typical training routine? Because

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    I think a lot of people aren't involved in, like,

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    youth teams or, like, structured climbing programs.

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    And then, yeah, how is your training different

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    from it? Well, I'd say we don't really have as

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    much structure, I think, as other youth teams.

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    Like, our coach doesn't really come up with plans

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    for the day. It's more just, like, what we want

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    to work on and how he can help us with that.

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    Like, during those couple hours at practices.

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    Yeah, I mean, we just climb. Yeah, we don't really

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    hangboard or work out that much. I haven't worked

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    out in like two months. Dang. We're not climbing

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    for like strength gain. It's more like technique

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    and like body awareness and stuff like that.

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    Yeah. But I guess even when it comes to technique

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    and body awareness, there's not like structured

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    programs for it. You just do whatever. Yeah.

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    Well, I think the philosophy is to create an

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    environment where you're kind of forced to like

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    learn to climb. the right way. So like our spray

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    wall, we spend a lot of time spray walling. So

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    it's kind of set in a way where you can't just

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    like pull up on the holds and be strong. You

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    have to like use your feet and connect your entire

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    body to really be able to do any moves. And how

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    do you feel like that compares to a typical training

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    program? Like what you guys were doing at like

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    Mesa? Mesa was a lot of strength training, like

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    workouts and stuff, which I think it was really

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    beneficial when we were youth climbers, but maybe

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    now so it's not as important. Really? Okay. I

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    feel like technique is more important now. Yeah.

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    I think the philosophy that Al has is if you're

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    not as strong, you have to compensate by using

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    technique. Yeah. So if you're stronger, it's

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    easy to kind of cut corners, and so it kind of

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    forces us to learn good movement, and we can

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    always get strong later. Do you feel like not

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    as strong as other climbers? For sure. Yeah.

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    I feel pretty weak all the time. We can't do

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    one arm. True. And, like, how do you feel about

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    that? You feel, like, fine about it? No, I feel

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    great about it. Okay. I, like, brag about how

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    weak I am. Yeah, I take a lot of pride in that.

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    Huh, okay. Yeah, it's kind of funny, you know.

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    But, like, do you think one day you guys will

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    do more strength training? Because, like, I guess

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    when I talked to Ross, it was, like, you need

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    to, like, get to a certain, like, you get to

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    a certain strength, and then your, like, technique.

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    catches up to the strength and then you like

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    can't really progress further until you get stronger

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    and then you like do strength training and then

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    you do technique i think through our like technique

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    training we'll just get stronger naturally and

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    so i think it's more like the technique will

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    rise and then our strength will just catch up

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    i think it's kind of the opposite i feel like

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    it's also like i think climbing is the best way

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    to get stronger at climbing like um it's like

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    you can do a bunch of traditional like, weightlifting,

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    but how well that actually transfers to climbing

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    is a bit, like, I'm not too sure. No, I get that.

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    That's good to hear that you don't need to, like,

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    do a bunch of strength training in order to be

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    good at climbing. That sounds kind of like what

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    they do in Japan or, like, what I've heard, at

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    least. Do you know if that's, like, actually

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    what they do there or just what they say they

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    do, but actually behind the scenes? I mean, I

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    don't actually know what they do. Okay. I mean,

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    you guys were just there. When I was there, I

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    was just doing the same thing that we do here.

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    I was just climbing on boulders. Yeah. But the

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    boulders there are set in a way where, as Zoe

    00:10:07.159 --> 00:10:09.740

    was saying, you have to climb it very well. It's

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    like times 100. Yeah. So it's better for technique,

    00:10:14.200 --> 00:10:17.480

    climbing there, for sure. Okay. It's definitely

    00:10:17.480 --> 00:10:19.960

    similar. Yeah. And how did you guys like Japan?

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    It was so cool. First time. I mostly miss the

    00:10:26.100 --> 00:10:28.340

    convenience stores, honestly. Oh, right, the

    00:10:28.340 --> 00:10:31.340

    7 -Elevens. Yeah, they have lots of good food

    00:10:31.340 --> 00:10:35.039

    options, and you can't really get anything to

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    eat at gas stations here. Yeah. The triangles

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    are really nice. The what? The triangles. The

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    rice triangles? Oh, yeah. With, like, fish inside.

    00:10:47.799 --> 00:10:51.289

    Yeah, there's a name for them, I think. I call

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    them triangles. We all call them triangles. Yeah,

    00:10:54.269 --> 00:10:56.509

    gotcha. Yeah, I've never been to Japan, but it

    00:10:56.509 --> 00:10:58.649

    seems nice. What about the climbing gyms? Like,

    00:10:58.669 --> 00:11:03.129

    did you guys go to the big ones? Yeah. E -Pump,

    00:11:03.210 --> 00:11:07.529

    Ogikubo. Right, yeah. Next Gen. Oh, yeah, the

    00:11:07.529 --> 00:11:10.970

    new one. I went to the Underground. I don't think

    00:11:10.970 --> 00:11:13.309

    you went to it. It was probably my favorite gym.

    00:11:13.750 --> 00:11:17.690

    It was, like, this really small box. Like, underneath

    00:11:17.690 --> 00:11:20.860

    is the Parma Complex, and it was, like, Some

    00:11:20.860 --> 00:11:23.460

    of the best setting I've climbed on. It was really

    00:11:23.460 --> 00:11:26.279

    fun. What makes, like, good setting for you?

    00:11:27.679 --> 00:11:32.019

    Just, like, the way I thought about it was when

    00:11:32.019 --> 00:11:36.320

    I'm in, like, a position, naturally there's kind

    00:11:36.320 --> 00:11:38.200

    of a way that you want to leave that position.

    00:11:38.659 --> 00:11:40.879

    And I felt like the climbs really rewarded that

    00:11:40.879 --> 00:11:45.679

    just, like, intuition. I could just climb, and

    00:11:45.679 --> 00:11:48.559

    it didn't matter. How I climbed it, I just climbed

    00:11:48.559 --> 00:11:50.019

    it naturally, and it felt, like, really fun.

    00:11:50.919 --> 00:11:53.720

    Okay, so then getting into, I guess, how Japan

    00:11:53.720 --> 00:11:56.480

    went in terms of the actual event that you guys

    00:11:56.480 --> 00:12:01.620

    were a part of. Is it pronounced Fukuoka? I think

    00:12:01.620 --> 00:12:06.399

    so. Okay. So, yeah, the team event, I think most

    00:12:06.399 --> 00:12:08.240

    people are probably wondering how the USA team

    00:12:08.240 --> 00:12:11.799

    was selected. Because, like, Japan and Korea

    00:12:11.799 --> 00:12:16.909

    brought, like... their biggest climbers, the

    00:12:16.909 --> 00:12:19.110

    ones who win all the medals at the World Cups.

    00:12:19.190 --> 00:12:22.750

    So, yeah, how did you guys get selected? It was

    00:12:22.750 --> 00:12:27.730

    kind of just open. We have a national ranking.

    00:12:28.809 --> 00:12:31.110

    That's how they select the people who go to World

    00:12:31.110 --> 00:12:35.889

    Cups. But I think, I mean, he's on the national

    00:12:35.889 --> 00:12:39.850

    team, but I'm only on the development team, so

    00:12:39.850 --> 00:12:44.620

    I'm lower down. Tired from the entire season

    00:12:44.620 --> 00:12:47.379

    and wanted to take a break, so they turned it

    00:12:47.379 --> 00:12:51.620

    down. So it came down to us. It's really weird,

    00:12:51.659 --> 00:12:54.100

    though, because even though I'm on the national

    00:12:54.100 --> 00:12:56.700

    team for lead, they're selecting based off of

    00:12:56.700 --> 00:12:59.360

    Boulder as well. Okay, so, like, it was your

    00:12:59.360 --> 00:13:01.679

    combined scores? Well, because I'm not on the

    00:13:01.679 --> 00:13:03.679

    Boulder development team at all. Oh, okay. So

    00:13:03.679 --> 00:13:08.620

    it was your combined score and any, like, points

    00:13:08.620 --> 00:13:10.779

    that you got in World Cups. So if you had made,

    00:13:10.840 --> 00:13:13.330

    like, a semifinal at a World Cup, you had more

    00:13:13.330 --> 00:13:16.929

    points over someone who was, like, on the team,

    00:13:16.970 --> 00:13:19.929

    I think. Okay. I don't really know. But, yeah,

    00:13:19.990 --> 00:13:21.549

    there was some sort of point system that they

    00:13:21.549 --> 00:13:24.269

    had in place. Yeah. And so everyone else just

    00:13:24.269 --> 00:13:25.990

    kind of passed up. Yeah. There were a couple

    00:13:25.990 --> 00:13:28.190

    points. Xander Waller was right in front of me,

    00:13:28.230 --> 00:13:29.730

    and then he declined, and then it passed down

    00:13:29.730 --> 00:13:32.809

    to me. I think Colin and Jesse declined as well.

    00:13:33.049 --> 00:13:34.629

    Yeah. I was, like, fourth down or something.

    00:13:34.970 --> 00:13:37.669

    Okay. Yeah. Were you guys excited to get the

    00:13:37.669 --> 00:13:39.690

    opportunity, or was it like, eh, I'm not sure?

    00:13:39.809 --> 00:13:43.169

    No, I was really psyched. Yeah. Yeah. Yeah, it's

    00:13:43.169 --> 00:13:44.970

    a cool opportunity. I mean, I guess it is far,

    00:13:45.129 --> 00:13:48.809

    though, for us. Yeah. But, like, it's Japan.

    00:13:48.929 --> 00:13:51.169

    Like, how can you not go? Yeah, I mean, yeah.

    00:13:51.330 --> 00:13:54.629

    I would have gone, too. Did you have any, like,

    00:13:54.629 --> 00:13:57.210

    expectations for the event going into this, especially

    00:13:57.210 --> 00:13:58.950

    hearing that you guys were, like, going to compete

    00:13:58.950 --> 00:14:02.809

    against Serato? We found out we were going, like,

    00:14:02.809 --> 00:14:06.710

    two weeks before. Oh, wow. Okay. Yeah. I was

    00:14:06.710 --> 00:14:10.029

    in Japan after World Champs. And then I flew

    00:14:10.029 --> 00:14:11.950

    back to the US and then like the day after I

    00:14:11.950 --> 00:14:14.610

    flew back, I got the email that I was going to

    00:14:14.610 --> 00:14:18.370

    Fukuoka. That sucks. Yeah. But we had no clue

    00:14:18.370 --> 00:14:20.129

    what to expect. We like found out the format

    00:14:20.129 --> 00:14:23.409

    the day before the comp. Oh, wow. Yeah. The logistics

    00:14:23.409 --> 00:14:25.990

    of what was happening. It was like, yeah, we

    00:14:25.990 --> 00:14:28.009

    had no clue what was going on. There was no way

    00:14:28.009 --> 00:14:31.049

    to prepare. Yeah. Okay. So then how did you feel

    00:14:31.049 --> 00:14:33.309

    the difficulty of the boulders compared to maybe

    00:14:33.309 --> 00:14:36.590

    like World Cup climbs or the other like biggest?

    00:14:37.149 --> 00:14:38.590

    Well, neither of us have actually climbed on

    00:14:38.590 --> 00:14:40.289

    a World Cup. I've never done a Boulder World

    00:14:40.289 --> 00:14:43.809

    Cup. Biggest comps that you guys have been a

    00:14:43.809 --> 00:14:45.289

    part of. What's the biggest comp you've been

    00:14:45.289 --> 00:14:48.909

    a part of? Yeah, Youth Worlds, bouldering. I

    00:14:48.909 --> 00:14:50.570

    thought you've been to Youth Worlds, too. I've

    00:14:50.570 --> 00:14:52.269

    never been to Youth Worlds for bouldering. I've

    00:14:52.269 --> 00:14:55.070

    never bouldered internationally. I think it was

    00:14:55.070 --> 00:14:57.929

    similar styles, but maybe turned down quite a

    00:14:57.929 --> 00:15:00.350

    bit. I thought they were quite generous. I was

    00:15:00.350 --> 00:15:05.210

    able to get several tops. That doesn't say that

    00:15:05.210 --> 00:15:07.610

    it was easy. I think it was just turned down

    00:15:07.610 --> 00:15:09.769

    a little bit. Okay. Especially in the qualies.

    00:15:10.049 --> 00:15:12.889

    Most of the, up for the bend, I think a climb

    00:15:12.889 --> 00:15:16.950

    got, every man topped one climb in the elimination

    00:15:16.950 --> 00:15:18.889

    round. And then the other climb, it was like

    00:15:18.889 --> 00:15:22.690

    only a few people didn't top it. So you wouldn't

    00:15:22.690 --> 00:15:25.070

    really see that in a World Cup. Okay, that's

    00:15:25.070 --> 00:15:29.230

    true. Well, we, so as viewers, we didn't get

    00:15:29.230 --> 00:15:32.129

    to see like qualies. I guess the earliest we

    00:15:32.129 --> 00:15:35.009

    saw was the Boulder elimination round. So I guess,

    00:15:35.009 --> 00:15:36.870

    like, how did the Boulder elimination round compare

    00:15:36.870 --> 00:15:41.090

    to, like, what you guys have done before? Easier,

    00:15:41.129 --> 00:15:43.570

    for sure. Easier. Yeah. Well, that's what I was

    00:15:43.570 --> 00:15:45.370

    talking about, the elimination round. Oh, okay,

    00:15:45.429 --> 00:15:46.769

    gotcha. Yeah, that's the one that had a lot of

    00:15:46.769 --> 00:15:49.049

    tops. Actually, I think Boulder Qualies was quite

    00:15:49.049 --> 00:15:51.490

    a bit harder. Oh. Because it was all the teams.

    00:15:51.529 --> 00:15:56.289

    It was, like, all six of them. Yeah. Versus the

    00:15:56.289 --> 00:15:58.309

    elimination round was only four. True, yeah.

    00:15:59.820 --> 00:16:02.740

    So we didn't top a single, at least for the guys,

    00:16:02.820 --> 00:16:05.200

    we didn't top a single one in the all -over round.

    00:16:06.700 --> 00:16:09.539

    That round was actually pretty hard. Pretty destroyed

    00:16:09.539 --> 00:16:13.779

    in that round. And then what about finals for

    00:16:13.779 --> 00:16:17.139

    both? I thought the setting was quite generous

    00:16:17.139 --> 00:16:21.299

    throughout the entire round, the entire comp.

    00:16:22.220 --> 00:16:26.779

    I mean, I got a flash in Boulder finals. I wasn't

    00:16:26.779 --> 00:16:28.480

    expecting to get anywhere on the Boulders, honestly.

    00:16:29.900 --> 00:16:32.700

    I got pretty high on the lead route too. I think

    00:16:32.700 --> 00:16:35.080

    it was more like they were just trying to, like

    00:16:35.080 --> 00:16:37.299

    they didn't really care if setting was a little

    00:16:37.299 --> 00:16:39.200

    easy because it's more about like showcasing

    00:16:39.200 --> 00:16:42.139

    the team format and all that. For the lead routes,

    00:16:42.320 --> 00:16:45.639

    you could tell that there was a change, especially

    00:16:45.639 --> 00:16:48.740

    for the guys. The World Cup routes are so powerful

    00:16:48.740 --> 00:16:52.740

    that you can like easily fall in like the first

    00:16:52.740 --> 00:16:55.360

    crux. But these routes, it was like really chill.

    00:16:55.929 --> 00:16:57.350

    Up until the headwall where it, like, turned

    00:16:57.350 --> 00:16:59.830

    on a bunch. Oh, okay. So I think that's where

    00:16:59.830 --> 00:17:01.809

    they wanted to get a little bit of change in

    00:17:01.809 --> 00:17:03.629

    the results. Everyone was kind of at the same

    00:17:03.629 --> 00:17:05.349

    spot, and then it would just get, like, really,

    00:17:05.430 --> 00:17:08.029

    really hard. Okay. Yeah. So, like, separation

    00:17:08.029 --> 00:17:11.049

    between, like, Serrano and Doyon, probably. Yeah,

    00:17:11.049 --> 00:17:13.029

    that was the difference between where I fell

    00:17:13.029 --> 00:17:14.869

    and then where, like, Doyon got to. I see. It

    00:17:14.869 --> 00:17:17.710

    was in that, like, really hard headwall section.

    00:17:18.009 --> 00:17:21.130

    Yeah. And then how was it, like, how helpful

    00:17:21.130 --> 00:17:23.890

    was it to actually see other people's beta? I

    00:17:23.890 --> 00:17:25.509

    thought it was really helpful. Helpful for me.

    00:17:25.769 --> 00:17:29.250

    I went basically last in qualies and finals.

    00:17:29.829 --> 00:17:32.470

    I feel like I tend to do better during flash

    00:17:32.470 --> 00:17:34.710

    format because I think once I know the beta,

    00:17:34.829 --> 00:17:38.230

    I'm pretty good at just executing. I feel like

    00:17:38.230 --> 00:17:40.390

    I don't actually like to watch people climb.

    00:17:41.269 --> 00:17:44.269

    Maybe if I just see one person, just to get in

    00:17:44.269 --> 00:17:48.029

    my head that it's possible, then I can just climb

    00:17:48.029 --> 00:17:50.529

    based off of what I already was thinking in my

    00:17:50.529 --> 00:17:53.559

    head and intuition. Because if you watch so many

    00:17:53.559 --> 00:17:55.099

    people, you just get really nervous. Because

    00:17:55.099 --> 00:17:56.859

    you're like, oh, you're watching every single,

    00:17:56.880 --> 00:17:59.220

    like, foot placement and, like, worrying about

    00:17:59.220 --> 00:18:02.119

    not slipping. Yeah. Which, if you haven't watched

    00:18:02.119 --> 00:18:04.000

    anyone, then you just climb based off of your

    00:18:04.000 --> 00:18:06.720

    own ability. And it, like, feels more fun that

    00:18:06.720 --> 00:18:10.079

    way, I think. No, I get that. I won't, well,

    00:18:10.180 --> 00:18:12.220

    so, like, I personally haven't competed in that,

    00:18:12.279 --> 00:18:15.900

    like, what's it called, on -site or... Yeah,

    00:18:15.920 --> 00:18:18.960

    flash format. Yeah, so I've never done on -site

    00:18:18.960 --> 00:18:22.160

    and... I guess I always thought, like, oh, I

    00:18:22.160 --> 00:18:25.599

    would prefer to go with my own beta. Yeah. And

    00:18:25.599 --> 00:18:28.019

    then when I think back to any competitions that

    00:18:28.019 --> 00:18:31.339

    I have done, I've only ever sent harder things

    00:18:31.339 --> 00:18:33.519

    by copying exactly what other people are doing.

    00:18:34.359 --> 00:18:37.680

    So, yeah, I don't know if I'm actually good at

    00:18:37.680 --> 00:18:40.759

    on -site format. What about having a coach there?

    00:18:40.839 --> 00:18:43.769

    Like, how helpful is that? I mean, the coach

    00:18:43.769 --> 00:18:46.869

    that you sent was Al, our coach. He's been coaching

    00:18:46.869 --> 00:18:49.630

    me since I started climbing. Oh, wow. Like 10

    00:18:49.630 --> 00:18:52.569

    years. Yeah, since I was 8. Dang. So that was

    00:18:52.569 --> 00:18:56.450

    really cool to go with him. Because, I mean,

    00:18:56.470 --> 00:18:59.890

    coaches don't usually get to, like, influence

    00:18:59.890 --> 00:19:02.430

    anything in a competition, really. So it was

    00:19:02.430 --> 00:19:04.170

    cool to have him out on the floor and, like,

    00:19:04.210 --> 00:19:08.650

    ask for a beta if needed. I didn't really notice

    00:19:08.650 --> 00:19:11.700

    it too much. Okay. I think for bouldering. I'm

    00:19:11.700 --> 00:19:14.700

    pretty much in my own zone. Oh, okay. I think

    00:19:14.700 --> 00:19:17.920

    it was helpful if you're on, like, a wrong track,

    00:19:18.160 --> 00:19:20.619

    he can kind of tell you where to go. Yeah. If

    00:19:20.619 --> 00:19:22.619

    you're doing something, like, really dumb. Yeah.

    00:19:23.420 --> 00:19:26.079

    But besides that, like, he's mostly giving, like,

    00:19:26.079 --> 00:19:28.180

    little tips. Yeah. Just to lead you in the right

    00:19:28.180 --> 00:19:31.859

    direction. Hmm. But I think it's good to let

    00:19:31.859 --> 00:19:35.700

    the climber really do it on its own, just because

    00:19:35.700 --> 00:19:37.660

    you can get really distracted, especially if

    00:19:37.660 --> 00:19:39.240

    it's, like, five minutes. True. I don't want

    00:19:39.240 --> 00:19:41.279

    to stay locked in. Yeah. And not be worrying

    00:19:41.279 --> 00:19:43.700

    about, like, certain beta or anything? Okay.

    00:19:43.759 --> 00:19:46.019

    Yeah. I think it's, I think we're both pretty

    00:19:46.019 --> 00:19:49.220

    independent climbers, but it's just helpful,

    00:19:49.299 --> 00:19:53.519

    like, if, like, I had a coordination move for

    00:19:53.519 --> 00:19:55.319

    one of my boulders that I was struggling to stick.

    00:19:55.339 --> 00:19:56.799

    It was, like, the first move, so it was helpful

    00:19:56.799 --> 00:19:59.740

    to get an outside perspective of what I looked

    00:19:59.740 --> 00:20:02.579

    like and just, like, little pointers like that.

    00:20:02.799 --> 00:20:04.700

    So there wasn't that much, like, communication

    00:20:04.700 --> 00:20:06.440

    back and forth during the run? Not too much,

    00:20:06.460 --> 00:20:08.859

    especially because he's balancing two different.

    00:20:09.210 --> 00:20:12.529

    teams yeah it's like on like opposite ends so

    00:20:12.529 --> 00:20:14.170

    it's kind of hard for them to be in two places

    00:20:14.170 --> 00:20:18.289

    at once yeah you didn't get to like watch back

    00:20:18.289 --> 00:20:21.109

    what you were doing in the moment right no i

    00:20:21.109 --> 00:20:23.630

    think a few teams did i saw the korean team yeah

    00:20:23.630 --> 00:20:26.650

    video and then when they come down they would

    00:20:26.650 --> 00:20:28.789

    like watch the video yeah i think that's definitely

    00:20:28.789 --> 00:20:30.910

    a strat because that's what we do like in training

    00:20:30.910 --> 00:20:33.589

    we'll have a video of our spray wall and so we

    00:20:33.589 --> 00:20:37.319

    can watch it back but in in the moment It's hard

    00:20:37.319 --> 00:20:40.180

    for one coach to do that because then he has

    00:20:40.180 --> 00:20:42.140

    to be in two places at once and filming two things

    00:20:42.140 --> 00:20:44.319

    at once. So I think it wasn't possible with what

    00:20:44.319 --> 00:20:46.039

    we had, but I think it's definitely a strategy

    00:20:46.039 --> 00:20:48.339

    we could have used. Did they have like two coaches

    00:20:48.339 --> 00:20:51.940

    there? The Korean, probably. Oh, okay. Probably

    00:20:51.940 --> 00:20:53.880

    more than two. Yeah. Oh my gosh, more than two.

    00:20:54.079 --> 00:20:56.640

    I think so. Okay. A lot of the teams have a few

    00:20:56.640 --> 00:20:59.099

    coaches. Okay. I mean, I guess it's a lot closer

    00:20:59.099 --> 00:21:02.099

    for them. Yeah. Did you feel more like pressure

    00:21:02.099 --> 00:21:04.079

    with your coach being right there, like able

    00:21:04.079 --> 00:21:07.279

    to talk to you at the same time? I didn't know.

    00:21:07.480 --> 00:21:11.099

    Maybe that's a me thing. I just feel so stressed

    00:21:11.099 --> 00:21:13.579

    if there's someone who kind of cares about my

    00:21:13.579 --> 00:21:16.640

    climbing watching me. I mean, we've climbed in

    00:21:16.640 --> 00:21:19.740

    front of him for years. He's seen us fail pretty

    00:21:19.740 --> 00:21:23.859

    miserably and do really well. I guess along those

    00:21:23.859 --> 00:21:27.000

    lines, when I think about climbing as a sport,

    00:21:27.140 --> 00:21:30.910

    it's like a very individual sport. How do you

    00:21:30.910 --> 00:21:34.029

    feel climbing in, like, a team format where there's,

    00:21:34.029 --> 00:21:35.950

    like, also the pressure of your other teammates

    00:21:35.950 --> 00:21:38.829

    counting on you? I thought it was cool because,

    00:21:38.950 --> 00:21:42.309

    like, if I mess up, you know, hopefully there

    00:21:42.309 --> 00:21:45.009

    will be people that have my back and maybe can

    00:21:45.009 --> 00:21:48.289

    pull the team score up a little bit. But I just

    00:21:48.289 --> 00:21:51.470

    feel like it kind of forced us to, like, actually

    00:21:51.470 --> 00:21:54.369

    talk and be friends and, like, collaborate because,

    00:21:54.509 --> 00:21:57.250

    like, I didn't really know Vale and Paloma at

    00:21:57.250 --> 00:21:58.910

    all. Like, I hadn't really talked to them before.

    00:21:59.579 --> 00:22:02.599

    They were our other two teammates. And I feel

    00:22:02.599 --> 00:22:04.980

    like normally at World Cups, I've only been to

    00:22:04.980 --> 00:22:09.700

    a couple, but I think since the U .S. is just

    00:22:09.700 --> 00:22:13.539

    so big geographically, it's hard to really feel

    00:22:13.539 --> 00:22:16.619

    like a team because you just don't know a lot

    00:22:16.619 --> 00:22:20.039

    of your teammates. I also don't think we did

    00:22:20.039 --> 00:22:23.839

    a very good job of watching every round. I think

    00:22:23.839 --> 00:22:25.759

    a lot of people just kind of go off and do their

    00:22:25.759 --> 00:22:29.049

    own thing. Oh, sure. I think it was pretty similar

    00:22:29.049 --> 00:22:32.589

    to just how I would, like, train normally, where

    00:22:32.589 --> 00:22:34.009

    you're just, like, climbing another person, you're

    00:22:34.009 --> 00:22:36.630

    just trading off. Like, you're talking about

    00:22:36.630 --> 00:22:40.150

    it, and you're climbing. So it felt normal for

    00:22:40.150 --> 00:22:43.250

    me. Yeah. Like, if I'm climbing with my friends,

    00:22:43.289 --> 00:22:46.269

    we'll do the same thing. We'll just, like, try

    00:22:46.269 --> 00:22:48.230

    it, try the same climb, and then talk about it,

    00:22:48.250 --> 00:22:50.809

    and then keep trying it. Yeah. It didn't feel

    00:22:50.809 --> 00:22:52.859

    that different. But with, like, the point system,

    00:22:53.119 --> 00:22:55.420

    you never felt like, oh, like, I let my team

    00:22:55.420 --> 00:22:57.740

    down. Like, I didn't get these points. Or, like,

    00:22:57.740 --> 00:22:59.700

    your teammate didn't get it. Maybe a little bit.

    00:22:59.700 --> 00:23:01.819

    You should have tried harder. Definitely a little

    00:23:01.819 --> 00:23:04.319

    bit. Yeah. But you can also make up points in

    00:23:04.319 --> 00:23:07.359

    so many different ways. Like, if you, like, on

    00:23:07.359 --> 00:23:09.799

    a sport climb, if you miss, like, one hold or

    00:23:09.799 --> 00:23:12.099

    something, then, like, the teammate is going

    00:23:12.099 --> 00:23:14.779

    to get, like, three other points per one hold.

    00:23:15.500 --> 00:23:18.839

    Or, like, because it's exponential, the points,

    00:23:18.900 --> 00:23:21.900

    if you miss one hold. That's, like, three points.

    00:23:22.680 --> 00:23:26.859

    But if they get one hold and it's higher, that's,

    00:23:26.859 --> 00:23:30.619

    like, even more many points. It's a weird scoring.

    00:23:31.339 --> 00:23:35.180

    Oh. Yeah. Wait, was it dependent on how far you

    00:23:35.180 --> 00:23:37.980

    got? Yeah. Well, no, it's how high you get up,

    00:23:38.000 --> 00:23:40.140

    the more points you get. Oh, okay, yeah. Kind

    00:23:40.140 --> 00:23:41.940

    of like how it was in the Olympics. In the Olympics.

    00:23:41.960 --> 00:23:45.960

    Okay, gotcha. Yeah. So if you, like, mess up

    00:23:45.960 --> 00:23:49.799

    early. There's room to make that up. Sure, yeah.

    00:23:50.000 --> 00:23:53.920

    I didn't feel as much pressure. Okay. Did you

    00:23:53.920 --> 00:23:55.900

    feel like there was anything that changed in

    00:23:55.900 --> 00:23:58.400

    terms of your mindset or strategy when it came

    00:23:58.400 --> 00:24:00.839

    to competing in a team format? I think for lead,

    00:24:00.940 --> 00:24:02.759

    it was the same. Because when you're climbing,

    00:24:02.880 --> 00:24:05.039

    you're still by yourself. For boulder, it was

    00:24:05.039 --> 00:24:07.200

    completely different. I think the qualifier round,

    00:24:07.259 --> 00:24:11.359

    we did not do a very good job climbing as a team.

    00:24:11.599 --> 00:24:14.000

    And then as the rounds progressed, I think we

    00:24:14.000 --> 00:24:17.150

    had a pretty good format for... Maybe the elimination

    00:24:17.150 --> 00:24:20.390

    round was really good. And then the final round

    00:24:20.390 --> 00:24:22.970

    was just really hard. I think we had a good kind

    00:24:22.970 --> 00:24:26.329

    of team system going. Yeah, I think it just took

    00:24:26.329 --> 00:24:28.410

    a little bit of time to warm up to our teammates,

    00:24:28.670 --> 00:24:30.690

    like if we've never climbed with them before,

    00:24:30.809 --> 00:24:34.329

    just getting used to their style. Yeah, was there

    00:24:34.329 --> 00:24:37.009

    any, like, strategy involved in terms of, like,

    00:24:37.089 --> 00:24:40.170

    oh, this person should go first? Or, like, what

    00:24:40.170 --> 00:24:42.390

    were the negotiations that happened during the

    00:24:42.390 --> 00:24:47.799

    comp? It wasn't very dramatic. It was sort of

    00:24:47.799 --> 00:24:50.980

    just like, hey, I'll brush the feet and you brush

    00:24:50.980 --> 00:24:53.619

    the hands and you can go first. It was kind of

    00:24:53.619 --> 00:24:57.400

    just decided in the moment. With Vale, we were

    00:24:57.400 --> 00:24:59.259

    actually thinking pretty strategically, I think.

    00:25:00.700 --> 00:25:03.559

    Because he's been training bouldering a lot more

    00:25:03.559 --> 00:25:06.480

    and I'm training more lead. There were different

    00:25:06.480 --> 00:25:11.660

    styles. So for the slab, I would say I'm better

    00:25:11.660 --> 00:25:14.329

    at slab than Vale. And so I would try it first

    00:25:14.329 --> 00:25:17.269

    just so I had more time to kind of think about

    00:25:17.269 --> 00:25:18.670

    the climate and I would have a better shot at

    00:25:18.670 --> 00:25:21.369

    doing it. And then for the more like powerful

    00:25:21.369 --> 00:25:24.589

    boulders, he had a really good idea of how he

    00:25:24.589 --> 00:25:25.829

    wanted to do it. And I was kind of like, well,

    00:25:25.910 --> 00:25:28.470

    I don't know what I'm going to do. Okay, you

    00:25:28.470 --> 00:25:30.650

    can go first so I can watch you. You know exactly

    00:25:30.650 --> 00:25:31.849

    what you're going to do. You're going to flash

    00:25:31.849 --> 00:25:33.890

    it. And then I have kind of more information

    00:25:33.890 --> 00:25:36.089

    to go off of and decide what I'm going to do.

    00:25:36.869 --> 00:25:40.049

    Yeah, which I think was great. We like complemented

    00:25:40.049 --> 00:25:42.000

    each other really well. Yeah. Like, our strength.

    00:25:42.319 --> 00:25:44.259

    He's, like, a really tall boulder. I'm, like,

    00:25:44.259 --> 00:25:46.500

    a shorter kind of slab climber. So I think it

    00:25:46.500 --> 00:25:49.059

    worked out really well. Yeah. And then Paloma's

    00:25:49.059 --> 00:25:50.819

    also, like, pretty tall, right? Yeah, Paloma's

    00:25:50.819 --> 00:25:52.859

    pretty tall. I think we had a good team going.

    00:25:53.000 --> 00:25:54.759

    I think it was great that we had, like, two taller

    00:25:54.759 --> 00:25:57.440

    and two shorter climbers. Oh, true. Yeah, like,

    00:25:57.559 --> 00:26:00.079

    allows you to fit in different boxes. Yeah. Yeah.

    00:26:00.960 --> 00:26:03.299

    What about, like, the lead? Was there any, like,

    00:26:03.299 --> 00:26:07.500

    strategy with, like, who goes out first? I think

    00:26:07.500 --> 00:26:09.950

    less who goes out first, but more, like, Who

    00:26:09.950 --> 00:26:13.029

    goes on which route? Oh, yeah. Remind us how

    00:26:13.029 --> 00:26:16.910

    that went. There were two routes, and each route

    00:26:16.910 --> 00:26:20.390

    needed a female and a male climber. So we would,

    00:26:20.390 --> 00:26:22.529

    like, get to the venue, look at the routes, kind

    00:26:22.529 --> 00:26:27.089

    of see, like, it was sort of about, like, which

    00:26:27.089 --> 00:26:32.369

    style suited you more, but also, like, the point

    00:26:32.369 --> 00:26:35.349

    scale, right? So it's kind of like, oh, if there's

    00:26:35.349 --> 00:26:38.410

    a stop or move, like... Some of them might fall

    00:26:38.410 --> 00:26:43.009

    here, but I think there's usually a more bouldery

    00:26:43.009 --> 00:26:45.589

    route and a more resistance -based route. So

    00:26:45.589 --> 00:26:49.069

    I feel like the intuition would be to put us

    00:26:49.069 --> 00:26:51.109

    on the resistance route and the boulders on the

    00:26:51.109 --> 00:26:53.490

    bouldery route. But then you could say, well,

    00:26:53.549 --> 00:26:56.670

    maybe if we do the jump in the middle, we have

    00:26:56.670 --> 00:26:59.470

    potential to go a lot higher since our endurance

    00:26:59.470 --> 00:27:02.849

    is a little better. And so, yeah, what was the

    00:27:02.849 --> 00:27:06.940

    strategy you guys went with there? I mean, I

    00:27:06.940 --> 00:27:10.339

    just let Vale pick. Okay. Because he's more a

    00:27:10.339 --> 00:27:12.259

    boulder. And most of the times he was on the

    00:27:12.259 --> 00:27:15.180

    bouldery route, like the jumps or the canvases

    00:27:15.180 --> 00:27:17.559

    or whatever. And then I was put on the endurance

    00:27:17.559 --> 00:27:21.099

    route. How did the lead routes feel? Was it like

    00:27:21.099 --> 00:27:24.700

    what you expected? Yeah. I mean, the beginning

    00:27:24.700 --> 00:27:27.339

    half was pretty chill. Right. And then it would

    00:27:27.339 --> 00:27:30.500

    just get harder as you went up. I think it was

    00:27:30.500 --> 00:27:33.420

    pretty fun. It was a lot less pressure because

    00:27:33.420 --> 00:27:36.660

    you can kind of ease into the route fully thrown

    00:27:36.660 --> 00:27:38.339

    into this, like, really cruxy boulder problem

    00:27:38.339 --> 00:27:42.500

    at the start, which was a lot more fun than just,

    00:27:42.539 --> 00:27:45.720

    like, a World Cup where as soon as you're on

    00:27:45.720 --> 00:27:47.160

    the wall, you're, like, fighting for your life.

    00:27:47.420 --> 00:27:50.539

    Okay. It honestly reminded me a lot more of American

    00:27:50.539 --> 00:27:54.059

    setting than, like, IFSC style, some of the routes

    00:27:54.059 --> 00:27:57.319

    I got on. I feel like most of the positions were

    00:27:57.319 --> 00:28:00.440

    pretty secure. Like, you could rest in a lot

    00:28:00.440 --> 00:28:04.359

    of places, whereas in, like, World Cups and stuff,

    00:28:04.400 --> 00:28:06.819

    they kind of... force you to keep going like

    00:28:06.819 --> 00:28:10.799

    you can't stay in one place too long um and then

    00:28:10.799 --> 00:28:13.519

    you guys had to do a lot more climbing than most

    00:28:13.519 --> 00:28:18.519

    other teams so how did the climbing and boulder

    00:28:18.519 --> 00:28:22.150

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    and sharing helps a great deal as well. Back

    00:28:57.359 --> 00:29:00.500

    to the show. Which one was the same day or the

    00:29:00.500 --> 00:29:01.839

    day before? They were kind of all the same day.

    00:29:02.019 --> 00:29:05.099

    Oh, okay. The first day was lead and boulder.

    00:29:05.480 --> 00:29:08.259

    Yeah. Qualifications. Yeah, qualifications. The

    00:29:08.259 --> 00:29:11.140

    second day was boulder and lead. And then the

    00:29:11.140 --> 00:29:14.299

    third day was just boulder finals. So there's

    00:29:14.299 --> 00:29:16.400

    a lot of rounds. Like five rounds in three days.

    00:29:16.500 --> 00:29:21.119

    Oh, gosh. Yeah. How did it affect you guys? I

    00:29:21.119 --> 00:29:22.720

    mean, it wasn't actually that bad because each

    00:29:22.720 --> 00:29:25.619

    round you're only doing like one route for the

    00:29:25.619 --> 00:29:28.940

    lead and two routes, max three routes for the

    00:29:28.940 --> 00:29:31.119

    boulder. Yeah. But it's just a lot of preparation

    00:29:31.119 --> 00:29:33.319

    because you have to warm up. You have to cool

    00:29:33.319 --> 00:29:36.960

    down and then fully warm up again. So, I mean,

    00:29:36.980 --> 00:29:38.579

    you're still getting tired, but it's not as much

    00:29:38.579 --> 00:29:41.519

    as like a full lead comp where you're doing two

    00:29:41.519 --> 00:29:45.680

    qualities and then one semi or like five boulders

    00:29:45.680 --> 00:29:48.440

    in a round. yeah i think it ended up being okay

    00:29:48.440 --> 00:29:51.559

    i think maybe a little low on skin but yeah yeah

    00:29:51.559 --> 00:29:55.000

    yeah i felt fine like energy wise i don't know

    00:29:55.000 --> 00:29:58.259

    about the others yeah because i mean half it's

    00:29:58.259 --> 00:30:00.460

    kind of like you're climbing half the amount

    00:30:00.460 --> 00:30:04.599

    compared to like a regular yeah okay i guess

    00:30:04.599 --> 00:30:08.400

    that's true yeah so you guys were fine compared

    00:30:08.400 --> 00:30:12.200

    to the other um teams yeah they had much more

    00:30:12.200 --> 00:30:14.789

    people yeah so They'd, like, swap people out

    00:30:14.789 --> 00:30:17.329

    every round. Yeah. So we didn't climb that much,

    00:30:17.410 --> 00:30:18.829

    but compared to the rest of them, we climbed

    00:30:18.829 --> 00:30:21.829

    a lot. True, yeah. Yeah, I guess, why wasn't

    00:30:21.829 --> 00:30:25.250

    there any, like, swaps? Or, like, is there, like,

    00:30:25.250 --> 00:30:27.349

    literally no one else who wanted to, like, come

    00:30:27.349 --> 00:30:29.630

    and do, like, swap outs? Or is it, like, a financial

    00:30:29.630 --> 00:30:33.130

    issue? That and, oh, just, like, financially,

    00:30:33.150 --> 00:30:36.410

    I think, like, if we sent more people, we'd all

    00:30:36.410 --> 00:30:40.390

    get less funding, so. Yeah. Yeah. I think people

    00:30:40.390 --> 00:30:42.880

    just didn't want to go. But it works out because

    00:30:42.880 --> 00:30:45.099

    then we get to do more climbing. It was really

    00:30:45.099 --> 00:30:49.400

    cool to do every round. And did you guys get

    00:30:49.400 --> 00:30:52.619

    funded to go? Your flights and hotels were paid

    00:30:52.619 --> 00:30:57.819

    for? We got a lump sum from IFSC. That's nice.

    00:30:58.119 --> 00:31:00.980

    It doesn't quite cover everything, but it covers

    00:31:00.980 --> 00:31:03.940

    a good chunk of it, I think. But then if more

    00:31:03.940 --> 00:31:06.720

    people came, it would have taken longer. Okay,

    00:31:06.819 --> 00:31:10.660

    that makes sense. And then for both of you, I

    00:31:10.660 --> 00:31:13.039

    think this is like your first time, well, you

    00:31:13.039 --> 00:31:14.579

    said it's your first time competing on the world

    00:31:14.579 --> 00:31:18.400

    stage? For bouldering. I've done a couple world

    00:31:18.400 --> 00:31:21.740

    cups, and I did world champs in Seoul. And then

    00:31:21.740 --> 00:31:24.019

    what about you? You've also done some. I did

    00:31:24.019 --> 00:31:26.519

    some world cups this season and last season.

    00:31:26.920 --> 00:31:29.740

    Okay, yeah. Yeah, just a handful. Yeah. So how

    00:31:29.740 --> 00:31:31.720

    did this event kind of compare to that in terms

    00:31:31.720 --> 00:31:36.859

    of like? viewership or like crowd or how it felt

    00:31:36.859 --> 00:31:38.259

    in general. Well, a whole other world because

    00:31:38.259 --> 00:31:42.740

    I've been to, I haven't made a semi. So I've

    00:31:42.740 --> 00:31:46.400

    never been like on the live streams. So it was,

    00:31:46.400 --> 00:31:48.119

    it was cool that like my family could watch.

    00:31:48.240 --> 00:31:52.319

    Oh yeah. And we did so many rounds so we could

    00:31:52.319 --> 00:31:54.500

    watch every single one. I think like the production

    00:31:54.500 --> 00:31:59.640

    quality was quite good. Like just regular. I

    00:31:59.640 --> 00:32:01.680

    mean, yeah, and I think especially, like, all

    00:32:01.680 --> 00:32:04.160

    the volunteers and audience, they were super

    00:32:04.160 --> 00:32:06.480

    psyched. Like, it was really cool. Like, they

    00:32:06.480 --> 00:32:09.140

    kept it up the entire round, even when everybody

    00:32:09.140 --> 00:32:12.660

    got to the top of everything sometimes. But,

    00:32:12.759 --> 00:32:16.480

    yeah, it felt like there really weren't that

    00:32:16.480 --> 00:32:18.660

    many of us. There were, like, four teams in finals.

    00:32:19.240 --> 00:32:22.079

    I've obviously never been in a World Cup final,

    00:32:22.180 --> 00:32:25.700

    but it felt like a World Cup final. But, like,

    00:32:25.779 --> 00:32:29.509

    zero pressure. Oh, really? Yeah. Pressure. Yeah.

    00:32:30.190 --> 00:32:32.309

    Just because you didn't have any expectations

    00:32:32.309 --> 00:32:35.410

    going into it? Yeah, I was just excited to be

    00:32:35.410 --> 00:32:39.289

    there. It felt like a charity event, kind of.

    00:32:39.609 --> 00:32:42.049

    Have you done other charity events? No, well,

    00:32:42.109 --> 00:32:46.190

    just like there wasn't any pressure to do well.

    00:32:46.250 --> 00:32:48.490

    There was nothing that we were qualifying for.

    00:32:48.650 --> 00:32:53.130

    It was just a standalone event. Right. Especially

    00:32:53.130 --> 00:32:54.769

    if you're in the final, that was kind of the

    00:32:54.769 --> 00:32:57.430

    goal, was to qualify for finals. So when you're

    00:32:57.430 --> 00:32:59.130

    there, you're just like, okay, nothing can go

    00:32:59.130 --> 00:33:01.410

    wrong now. Especially because we qualified in

    00:33:01.410 --> 00:33:03.710

    fourth, so we literally could not do any worse.

    00:33:03.910 --> 00:33:06.609

    We could only do better. And it's like, you only

    00:33:06.609 --> 00:33:08.970

    have to beat one team to podium. Yeah, true.

    00:33:09.609 --> 00:33:11.869

    Was there, I forget, was there like a prize pool,

    00:33:12.109 --> 00:33:15.150

    or was it just for riding? No, no, no, I think

    00:33:15.150 --> 00:33:19.009

    the worst. For the podium, yeah. Well, it's kind

    00:33:19.009 --> 00:33:20.710

    of a shame you guys didn't get a podium then.

    00:33:21.740 --> 00:33:24.799

    But it was a cool experience. How does it compare

    00:33:24.799 --> 00:33:27.740

    to, like, youth competitions? I feel like youth

    00:33:27.740 --> 00:33:31.779

    competitions, like IFSC, there's a lot of pressure.

    00:33:32.299 --> 00:33:35.380

    Oh, really? I find that the youth world competitions

    00:33:35.380 --> 00:33:37.900

    have, like, so much more pressure than the World

    00:33:37.900 --> 00:33:40.519

    Cups. Oh. Just because there's, like, kind of

    00:33:40.519 --> 00:33:43.000

    a time limit for how long you can compete because

    00:33:43.000 --> 00:33:45.539

    you can graduate and you, like, really want to

    00:33:45.539 --> 00:33:48.859

    do well because if you do well there, it kind

    00:33:48.859 --> 00:33:50.759

    of leads into, like, doing well in the World

    00:33:50.759 --> 00:33:56.220

    Cups. But for kind of USA Climbing youth and

    00:33:56.220 --> 00:34:00.059

    like USA Climbing elite, I don't think there's

    00:34:00.059 --> 00:34:03.519

    as much pressure, I think, just because there's

    00:34:03.519 --> 00:34:06.259

    not as much competition and it's kind of like

    00:34:06.259 --> 00:34:09.500

    you're with your friends. So it's just kind of

    00:34:09.500 --> 00:34:11.780

    like a fun comp, which was more similar to this.

    00:34:12.920 --> 00:34:15.619

    Yeah, I feel like I felt the most pressure at

    00:34:15.619 --> 00:34:18.960

    Youth Worlds because that's... It's kind of like

    00:34:18.960 --> 00:34:21.300

    what I was training for the entire year, like

    00:34:21.300 --> 00:34:23.719

    mainly youth nationals, like to be able to make

    00:34:23.719 --> 00:34:27.679

    youth worlds. And World Cups are just like a

    00:34:27.679 --> 00:34:31.139

    nice, like, you know, like I get these opportunities

    00:34:31.139 --> 00:34:34.099

    and it's really cool to go and experience it,

    00:34:34.119 --> 00:34:36.440

    but not really like expecting anything from it.

    00:34:36.559 --> 00:34:38.980

    Yeah, I guess I have heard, well, I've heard

    00:34:38.980 --> 00:34:43.099

    some people say that like the youth scene is

    00:34:43.099 --> 00:34:46.550

    a lot more like stressful than... The elite or,

    00:34:46.610 --> 00:34:49.010

    like, adult scene, I guess? Yeah, for sure. You

    00:34:49.010 --> 00:34:52.769

    experienced that, too? Yeah. Is it, I guess,

    00:34:52.829 --> 00:34:54.949

    like, the pressure or expectation that you'll

    00:34:54.949 --> 00:34:58.389

    actually, like, win or podium at it? I feel like

    00:34:58.389 --> 00:35:00.730

    the youth comps, the youth nationals that I've

    00:35:00.730 --> 00:35:02.730

    been to have always been, like, the hardest comps

    00:35:02.730 --> 00:35:07.349

    to win or, like, to do well at. Because there's

    00:35:07.349 --> 00:35:08.730

    so much pressure, and there's, like, only one

    00:35:08.730 --> 00:35:11.070

    comp that you've been training for, like, this

    00:35:11.070 --> 00:35:13.210

    entire year. There's so many comps that you've

    00:35:13.210 --> 00:35:16.980

    been to. Everyone's so close because they're

    00:35:16.980 --> 00:35:19.960

    the same age. They've been climbing for the same

    00:35:19.960 --> 00:35:22.219

    amount of years. So everyone's kind of around

    00:35:22.219 --> 00:35:24.719

    the same level. It's just luck of the draw or

    00:35:24.719 --> 00:35:27.719

    just pure determination who comes out on top,

    00:35:27.940 --> 00:35:31.000

    I think. And especially there's only three spots

    00:35:31.000 --> 00:35:34.340

    for Worlds. Anything can happen. Your foot slips

    00:35:34.340 --> 00:35:40.039

    and then that's it. What has World Cups and that

    00:35:40.039 --> 00:35:42.260

    whole circuit kind of highlighted in terms of

    00:35:42.260 --> 00:35:46.389

    your strengths and weaknesses? I feel like especially

    00:35:46.389 --> 00:35:51.309

    bouldering in the team event in Japan, because

    00:35:51.309 --> 00:35:53.369

    it was, like, my first international boulder

    00:35:53.369 --> 00:35:56.690

    comp, like, I finally really understood why we

    00:35:56.690 --> 00:35:58.849

    train the way we do or, like, why we get on the

    00:35:58.849 --> 00:36:01.690

    boulders that we do. Because it felt so familiar

    00:36:01.690 --> 00:36:05.630

    and intuitive compared to comps in the States.

    00:36:07.150 --> 00:36:09.469

    And it would lead to, like, once I got to the

    00:36:09.469 --> 00:36:12.590

    World Cup stage, I was, like, like, I feel like

    00:36:12.590 --> 00:36:18.230

    I got... Much better results there than in domestic

    00:36:18.230 --> 00:36:21.949

    comps, even though I didn't make semis. I just

    00:36:21.949 --> 00:36:25.829

    felt a lot more comfortable with the style. What

    00:36:25.829 --> 00:36:30.690

    was the style difference? I think in the U .S.

    00:36:30.690 --> 00:36:34.150

    there's a big emphasis on being strong and having

    00:36:34.150 --> 00:36:40.130

    a lot of fitness. I think World Cups really reward

    00:36:40.130 --> 00:36:45.559

    being able to climb well. like getting through

    00:36:45.559 --> 00:36:49.440

    sections fast. I think for the most part, when

    00:36:49.440 --> 00:36:51.780

    I go to these World Cups, it's like the technique

    00:36:51.780 --> 00:36:54.460

    is there for me. I feel like all the moves are

    00:36:54.460 --> 00:36:57.000

    possible. It's more just like a kind of a strength

    00:36:57.000 --> 00:37:00.400

    thing, like a comfort thing. I guess a lot of

    00:37:00.400 --> 00:37:04.059

    the climbs are really uncomfortable, and they

    00:37:04.059 --> 00:37:08.360

    take a lot of like almost brain patience where

    00:37:08.360 --> 00:37:10.380

    you're like in these really uncomfortable positions

    00:37:10.380 --> 00:37:13.309

    for like a really long amount of time. where

    00:37:13.309 --> 00:37:16.369

    maybe your body isn't super tired, but your brain

    00:37:16.369 --> 00:37:20.710

    just gets really fatigued. And so I've been trying

    00:37:20.710 --> 00:37:24.469

    to work on that where you're in really uncomfortable

    00:37:24.469 --> 00:37:27.789

    positions. I think that's probably the biggest

    00:37:27.789 --> 00:37:30.670

    style difference is just everything's really

    00:37:30.670 --> 00:37:35.269

    uncomfortable. Interesting. Yeah. I'm trying

    00:37:35.269 --> 00:37:37.969

    to think if there's a way to relate to that because

    00:37:37.969 --> 00:37:40.750

    I have no idea what that means. Like brain patients

    00:37:40.750 --> 00:37:44.440

    or uncomfortable? Like, I guess brain patients.

    00:37:44.559 --> 00:37:47.260

    Or, like, I'm trying to imagine what a boulder

    00:37:47.260 --> 00:37:50.519

    would look like. When I think about it, it's

    00:37:50.519 --> 00:37:54.099

    like you're in this position, and if you, like,

    00:37:54.119 --> 00:37:56.639

    move too quickly, you're, like, going to fall

    00:37:56.639 --> 00:37:59.420

    out. So you just have to, like, slow it down

    00:37:59.420 --> 00:38:00.980

    and just, like, keep moving. Even though your

    00:38:00.980 --> 00:38:02.739

    brain's like, I don't want to do this. I want

    00:38:02.739 --> 00:38:04.639

    to, like, hop off the wall. You just have to,

    00:38:04.659 --> 00:38:07.139

    like, keep going and keep going and keep going,

    00:38:07.179 --> 00:38:09.079

    like, inch by inch. Just use it like the next

    00:38:09.079 --> 00:38:12.670

    move. Okay. Was there, like, a move or, like,

    00:38:12.750 --> 00:38:15.570

    boulder during this competition that you remember,

    00:38:15.670 --> 00:38:20.670

    like, mostly feeling like that? On the slab in

    00:38:20.670 --> 00:38:24.150

    the finals, it was, like, you do this kind of,

    00:38:24.150 --> 00:38:29.329

    like, foot cross. And, like, the foot felt horrible

    00:38:29.329 --> 00:38:32.630

    when I put it on. But you just have to, like,

    00:38:32.690 --> 00:38:34.809

    really slow it down and then step over it. And

    00:38:34.809 --> 00:38:37.679

    then I think this is something that... I need

    00:38:37.679 --> 00:38:39.360

    to get better at is like being really patient

    00:38:39.360 --> 00:38:42.280

    because the next move I got the foot out and

    00:38:42.280 --> 00:38:44.239

    as soon as I felt good, I just went immediately,

    00:38:44.360 --> 00:38:47.800

    but I really should have slowed it down and like

    00:38:47.800 --> 00:38:50.960

    try to do it as, as smooth as possible. Cause

    00:38:50.960 --> 00:38:53.320

    I got, I got really excited and I, and I dropped

    00:38:53.320 --> 00:38:55.559

    the top. Yeah. So if I had waited a little bit

    00:38:55.559 --> 00:38:57.719

    longer and like kind of sat in the position,

    00:38:57.860 --> 00:38:59.519

    I think I would have done it or at least have

    00:38:59.519 --> 00:39:02.619

    a better shot in doing it. But it's like really

    00:39:02.619 --> 00:39:05.440

    hard to sit in those uncomfortable positions

    00:39:05.440 --> 00:39:08.840

    because you're, Like, on that line of, I feel

    00:39:08.840 --> 00:39:10.780

    like I'm going to fall out right now. Yeah. But

    00:39:10.780 --> 00:39:12.380

    you just have to, like, stay there, which is

    00:39:12.380 --> 00:39:16.079

    really hard. I get that. It's a weird kind of

    00:39:16.079 --> 00:39:19.440

    patience, for sure. Yeah, in our finals as well,

    00:39:19.440 --> 00:39:22.599

    there was the first boulder. It was, like, a

    00:39:22.599 --> 00:39:26.599

    mantle off of kind of slopey volume. It was green.

    00:39:28.900 --> 00:39:30.679

    Wow, it's been a while now. That was, like, a

    00:39:30.679 --> 00:39:33.960

    month ago. But you're kind of, like, you have

    00:39:33.960 --> 00:39:35.340

    to flip all the way, and you're reaching up,

    00:39:35.380 --> 00:39:37.280

    and there's this, like, crimp on the underside

    00:39:37.280 --> 00:39:39.320

    of another volume. Oh, I remember that. And you

    00:39:39.320 --> 00:39:42.019

    just feel stuck, like so stuck, but I think you

    00:39:42.019 --> 00:39:44.579

    just have to keep going and like slowly get your

    00:39:44.579 --> 00:39:49.639

    foot up. And I felt really like, I just wanted

    00:39:49.639 --> 00:39:52.059

    to hop off the wall so bad because it felt so

    00:39:52.059 --> 00:39:55.780

    uncomfortable. I remember for that women's finals

    00:39:55.780 --> 00:40:01.059

    one, like the Korean and Japanese climbers did

    00:40:01.059 --> 00:40:03.340

    it and it looked quite different from everyone

    00:40:03.340 --> 00:40:05.929

    else doing it. For the slab, did anyone end up

    00:40:05.929 --> 00:40:09.690

    setting it? One guy did, Oren. Oh, yeah. But

    00:40:09.690 --> 00:40:11.789

    I was actually pretty proud of that because it

    00:40:11.789 --> 00:40:13.889

    was actually a really hard slab. Yeah. And everyone

    00:40:13.889 --> 00:40:15.289

    was falling on the last move. So the fact that

    00:40:15.289 --> 00:40:17.889

    I got there, I had a shot at it. It was pretty

    00:40:17.889 --> 00:40:20.750

    cool. Yeah. It was a really fun climb. Those

    00:40:20.750 --> 00:40:22.210

    are the slab climbs that I really like. And I

    00:40:22.210 --> 00:40:24.650

    think I'm pretty good at them. Yeah. Yeah, that

    00:40:24.650 --> 00:40:26.650

    was cool to see. So, yeah, in general, for both

    00:40:26.650 --> 00:40:28.909

    of you, it seems like lead climbing is what you

    00:40:28.909 --> 00:40:31.469

    guys are doing right now. Is that your preference?

    00:40:31.650 --> 00:40:36.130

    Are you trying to expand into Boulder? I do prefer

    00:40:36.130 --> 00:40:40.210

    lead. Okay. I am trying to expand. Yeah, I think

    00:40:40.210 --> 00:40:43.730

    I just enjoy lead more because I think in most

    00:40:43.730 --> 00:40:45.510

    of the U .S. comps, a lot of bouldering is just,

    00:40:45.570 --> 00:40:49.110

    like, can you jump really far or can you, like,

    00:40:49.110 --> 00:40:53.110

    hold these terrible holds? And it's just not,

    00:40:53.210 --> 00:40:58.510

    like, really as enjoyable for me as lead. But,

    00:40:58.510 --> 00:41:00.869

    I mean, obviously you have to get better bouldering

    00:41:00.869 --> 00:41:03.030

    to get better lead because the moves are going

    00:41:03.030 --> 00:41:06.289

    to get harder. Yeah, true. I actually don't have

    00:41:06.289 --> 00:41:08.710

    a preference. I like them equally. I think I'm

    00:41:08.710 --> 00:41:12.389

    just better at lead, like, naturally. But I've

    00:41:12.389 --> 00:41:13.789

    been getting more into bouldering because it's

    00:41:13.789 --> 00:41:16.969

    just, there's, like, something cool about, like,

    00:41:17.030 --> 00:41:20.269

    how hard can you do and, like, what's the max

    00:41:20.269 --> 00:41:22.389

    amount of power you can generate in, like, such

    00:41:22.389 --> 00:41:25.269

    a short amount of time. Yeah. Like, it's pushing

    00:41:25.269 --> 00:41:29.289

    the limits of, like, just pure strength versus

    00:41:29.289 --> 00:41:32.010

    lead is, like, it's a little bit more of just

    00:41:32.010 --> 00:41:35.329

    a lot of climbing. Like, the moves are easier,

    00:41:35.489 --> 00:41:40.550

    so it's not as, like... I feel like the bottom

    00:41:40.550 --> 00:41:42.829

    half of lead routes aren't as cool as, like,

    00:41:42.829 --> 00:41:46.030

    the cruxes of boulder routes. I got that, yeah.

    00:41:46.190 --> 00:41:48.510

    Like, it's kind of cool to just try really hard.

    00:41:48.690 --> 00:41:51.329

    Yeah. I feel like in lead, you don't get that

    00:41:51.329 --> 00:41:53.730

    as often, because it's more like you're trying

    00:41:53.730 --> 00:41:56.969

    hard on, like, one really hard move, and it's

    00:41:56.969 --> 00:41:58.530

    just, like, you're just tired by then. Try really

    00:41:58.530 --> 00:42:01.110

    hard when you're pumped. Yeah, but it's only

    00:42:01.110 --> 00:42:03.510

    for, like... One move and then you're falling

    00:42:03.510 --> 00:42:06.110

    down. For boulder, it's like you get to try hard

    00:42:06.110 --> 00:42:07.789

    and then you rest and you get to keep trying

    00:42:07.789 --> 00:42:10.590

    hard. Maybe you should be trying harder at the

    00:42:10.590 --> 00:42:11.929

    end of lead routes. I should be trying harder

    00:42:11.929 --> 00:42:15.190

    on lead routes, yeah. I guess what's your long

    00:42:15.190 --> 00:42:18.630

    -term thinking strategically in terms of choosing

    00:42:18.630 --> 00:42:23.110

    boulder or lead or boulder and lead? Is there

    00:42:23.110 --> 00:42:25.869

    any thinking or is it just what you feel like?

    00:42:25.869 --> 00:42:27.809

    I think if you're a good climber, you're going

    00:42:27.809 --> 00:42:30.829

    to be good at both. I think that's more the goal

    00:42:30.829 --> 00:42:32.719

    is just... being a really good climber and being

    00:42:32.719 --> 00:42:35.840

    good at, like, everything. Because then it doesn't

    00:42:35.840 --> 00:42:37.840

    matter if you're training lead or training pole,

    00:42:37.880 --> 00:42:39.039

    like, you're going to be really good regardless.

    00:42:39.880 --> 00:42:42.860

    I think definitely, like, I noticed this gap

    00:42:42.860 --> 00:42:44.780

    a couple years ago just comparing against, like,

    00:42:44.860 --> 00:42:48.360

    other people my age who are, like, really good

    00:42:48.360 --> 00:42:50.039

    in lead. But they're also really good in boulder.

    00:42:50.099 --> 00:42:52.440

    And I was, like, not even making semis at youth

    00:42:52.440 --> 00:42:54.860

    nats or, like, not making finals. And I was,

    00:42:54.880 --> 00:42:57.639

    like, I feel like this is a bit of a problem.

    00:42:58.019 --> 00:43:00.880

    So I've definitely been, I think. I'm definitely

    00:43:00.880 --> 00:43:04.199

    closing the gap now. I've been bouldering a lot

    00:43:04.199 --> 00:43:08.019

    more this year, especially getting to travel

    00:43:08.019 --> 00:43:10.639

    and climb on different styles, I think, has helped

    00:43:10.639 --> 00:43:14.719

    a lot. I've done a lot of the cash comps recently.

    00:43:15.119 --> 00:43:19.099

    It's been cool. Oh, yeah, you did... Wait, which

    00:43:19.099 --> 00:43:21.019

    one was it? Oh, Battle of the Bay. I think I

    00:43:21.019 --> 00:43:24.280

    did a comp every weekend of October. Oh, gosh.

    00:43:24.500 --> 00:43:28.860

    It was like... I was gone for 18 days, which

    00:43:28.860 --> 00:43:31.159

    is the longest I've been away from home. So I

    00:43:31.159 --> 00:43:35.000

    first, I took a train to New Mexico because there

    00:43:35.000 --> 00:43:36.960

    were no good flights, so they were like $400.

    00:43:37.360 --> 00:43:42.760

    I took a 20 -hour train. Oh, my. No, it was chill.

    00:43:43.579 --> 00:43:47.239

    So that was for Yankinyard. Oh, okay. It's like

    00:43:47.239 --> 00:43:49.219

    the one with the highballs and, like, the airbags.

    00:43:49.539 --> 00:43:51.820

    They, like, set a boulder on their lead wall

    00:43:51.820 --> 00:43:53.739

    and put an airbag under it. I did not see this,

    00:43:53.739 --> 00:43:55.739

    no. Yeah, that was really cool. Was it streamed

    00:43:55.739 --> 00:43:58.099

    anywhere? It was on YouTube. Oh, really? Okay.

    00:43:58.099 --> 00:44:00.380

    I just wanted to go because it seemed really

    00:44:00.380 --> 00:44:02.500

    cool. Yeah. I've never been before. And then

    00:44:02.500 --> 00:44:04.980

    it was Japan, and then flew back to San Francisco

    00:44:04.980 --> 00:44:08.039

    for Battle of the Bay. Right. And then I did

    00:44:08.039 --> 00:44:13.280

    Battle for the Fort last weekend in Colorado,

    00:44:13.420 --> 00:44:15.940

    but I didn't make finals. And then you did Boulder

    00:44:15.940 --> 00:44:17.639

    Fest right before that, right? I did Arizona

    00:44:17.639 --> 00:44:20.780

    Boulder Fest, like, beginning of October. How

    00:44:20.780 --> 00:44:24.960

    do you guys like doing cash comps? I have a lot

    00:44:24.960 --> 00:44:27.460

    of fun just being able to see my friends and

    00:44:27.460 --> 00:44:30.800

    go different places and hopefully win some money.

    00:44:31.800 --> 00:44:34.860

    I think it's a lot more fun because there's no

    00:44:34.860 --> 00:44:38.860

    pressure. But they're really far away. We don't

    00:44:38.860 --> 00:44:41.980

    have very many in San Diego. So then what are

    00:44:41.980 --> 00:44:46.920

    your future plans for climbing? Because you guys

    00:44:46.920 --> 00:44:49.559

    are both on the younger side. I'd like to be

    00:44:49.559 --> 00:44:51.940

    able to make a semifinal at one point. I think

    00:44:51.940 --> 00:44:53.849

    that would be pretty cool. Semi -final. I think

    00:44:53.849 --> 00:44:56.110

    if you make a semi -final, you have the ability

    00:44:56.110 --> 00:44:59.309

    to make a final. Yeah. It's just, like, you just

    00:44:59.309 --> 00:45:02.989

    have to be really good and, like, perform really

    00:45:02.989 --> 00:45:05.969

    well. Or, like, making the Boulder team. Yeah.

    00:45:06.030 --> 00:45:09.690

    I think if I can make the Boulder team, then

    00:45:09.690 --> 00:45:12.030

    I'll have, like, the skills and the strength

    00:45:12.030 --> 00:45:15.030

    required to make, like, a lead World Cup semi.

    00:45:16.010 --> 00:45:18.210

    Yeah. I have, like, similar goals, honestly.

    00:45:19.250 --> 00:45:22.159

    Just keep climbing, hopefully. I don't really

    00:45:22.159 --> 00:45:25.940

    have a very solid plan for the future, like,

    00:45:25.980 --> 00:45:28.739

    with college and everything. Yeah. Like, I am

    00:45:28.739 --> 00:45:32.780

    committed to Carnegie Mellon, which is in Pittsburgh,

    00:45:32.900 --> 00:45:35.739

    but I honestly don't know if I will survive the

    00:45:35.739 --> 00:45:39.079

    winters there. Yeah. So I might change plans.

    00:45:39.559 --> 00:45:42.460

    Oh, like college plans? I might, like, reapply

    00:45:42.460 --> 00:45:46.420

    this year to somewhere else. Whoa. Yeah. Dang.

    00:45:47.079 --> 00:45:51.769

    But it's all up in the air right now. I'm currently

    00:45:51.769 --> 00:45:53.789

    taking a gap year. What went into that decision?

    00:45:53.969 --> 00:45:56.309

    Was it about climbing? It was about climbing.

    00:45:57.530 --> 00:46:00.389

    And I'm really happy with my decision. I think

    00:46:00.389 --> 00:46:02.570

    everyone should take a gap year, honestly. My

    00:46:02.570 --> 00:46:04.289

    friends are all jealous now that I'm not. Yeah,

    00:46:04.309 --> 00:46:07.969

    true. But yeah, just to compete as much as I

    00:46:07.969 --> 00:46:10.869

    can, train a little bit more, because I was pretty

    00:46:10.869 --> 00:46:13.429

    busy in high school. I went to a regular high

    00:46:13.429 --> 00:46:17.809

    school. So yeah, getting to train and compete

    00:46:17.809 --> 00:46:22.949

    and travel. Yeah, I think I've been, like, I

    00:46:22.949 --> 00:46:25.130

    can afford to be really spontaneous with my travel

    00:46:25.130 --> 00:46:28.670

    now. So I think it's really nice. Where are you

    00:46:28.670 --> 00:46:33.050

    thinking of applying instead of Carnegie? I have

    00:46:33.050 --> 00:46:36.909

    no clue. Like, personally, I mean, you're doing,

    00:46:36.949 --> 00:46:40.829

    like, computer science, right? I'm doing, my

    00:46:40.829 --> 00:46:44.510

    intended major was information systems, which

    00:46:44.510 --> 00:46:46.789

    is, like, computer science with a side of business,

    00:46:47.010 --> 00:46:51.110

    really. Yeah. I honestly don't know where I would

    00:46:51.110 --> 00:46:55.170

    apply. Somewhere with better weather. Probably,

    00:46:55.230 --> 00:46:57.289

    like, west coast. You can't get better than right

    00:46:57.289 --> 00:47:00.289

    here. Yeah, that's kind of hard. I don't know

    00:47:00.289 --> 00:47:02.429

    if I could stay, like... I say as it's currently

    00:47:02.429 --> 00:47:05.630

    raining right now. Well, I mean, we talked about,

    00:47:05.670 --> 00:47:08.190

    like, driving in the rain for, like, 30 minutes,

    00:47:08.289 --> 00:47:10.710

    which, like, no one else ever would do ever.

    00:47:11.389 --> 00:47:14.150

    Did you grow up here? I moved here when I was,

    00:47:14.170 --> 00:47:17.429

    like, five. I'm from Seattle, though. There was

    00:47:17.429 --> 00:47:22.369

    a lot of rain there. Yeah. I like the rain. Okay.

    00:47:22.610 --> 00:47:27.070

    Yeah. Occasionally. Well, I think I was in a

    00:47:27.070 --> 00:47:29.269

    similar, well, I wasn't in a similar position

    00:47:29.269 --> 00:47:32.309

    to you, but I know Carnegie's a good school.

    00:47:32.710 --> 00:47:38.429

    Yeah. So that part is good. Yeah. I think. I

    00:47:38.429 --> 00:47:40.349

    don't like Pittsburgh, though. I grew up in Pennsylvania.

    00:47:40.809 --> 00:47:43.349

    Oh, really? Yeah. I didn't, I toured Carnegie

    00:47:43.349 --> 00:47:46.210

    and, like, University of Pittsburgh, and I did

    00:47:46.210 --> 00:47:50.579

    not like the vibes. Did you tour? I went for

    00:47:50.579 --> 00:47:52.780

    admitted students day. Oh, okay. Like, two days.

    00:47:52.960 --> 00:47:56.579

    I think it was nice. I think, like, the academics

    00:47:56.579 --> 00:48:00.840

    are definitely very good. And the name, too.

    00:48:01.000 --> 00:48:06.219

    Yeah. Like, I think would help. Yeah. But the

    00:48:06.219 --> 00:48:11.179

    weather in the winter is questionable. And the

    00:48:11.179 --> 00:48:13.679

    climbing isn't great. I don't have any friends

    00:48:13.679 --> 00:48:18.940

    there. So, sort of like. Yeah. It's okay to not

    00:48:18.940 --> 00:48:22.019

    have your friends there, but I did not like the

    00:48:22.019 --> 00:48:24.239

    weather. I thought Pittsburgh looked depressing.

    00:48:25.579 --> 00:48:30.380

    And you can apply to, like, Berkeley. Yeah, I

    00:48:30.380 --> 00:48:34.619

    don't, I think, I mean, I really like the weather

    00:48:34.619 --> 00:48:37.699

    in San Francisco, but I just don't think I could

    00:48:37.699 --> 00:48:39.519

    do a big school like that. I think I'd just get

    00:48:39.519 --> 00:48:42.840

    lost. It's, like, too big of a school? Yeah.

    00:48:43.260 --> 00:48:45.079

    Interesting. Like, what are you looking for?

    00:48:45.690 --> 00:48:48.389

    This is turning into a personal question. I don't

    00:48:48.389 --> 00:48:50.210

    know what I'm doing with my life. I'm just so

    00:48:50.210 --> 00:49:01.170

    curious. I mean, one of... I don't know. Probably

    00:49:01.170 --> 00:49:06.610

    somewhere near the West Coast. But I think the

    00:49:06.610 --> 00:49:12.469

    biggest thing I like about climbing, more than

    00:49:12.469 --> 00:49:14.650

    the actual... climbing itself is just the community.

    00:49:14.929 --> 00:49:17.150

    Yeah. I feel like it'd be important to be close

    00:49:17.150 --> 00:49:26.030

    to, like, some climbing friends. Okay. I don't

    00:49:26.030 --> 00:49:30.670

    know. Okay. Declan, what about you? My idea of

    00:49:30.670 --> 00:49:32.550

    what are your future plans in terms of, like,

    00:49:32.550 --> 00:49:34.469

    are you going to go to school or are you going

    00:49:34.469 --> 00:49:35.809

    to continue training? I'm currently in a gap

    00:49:35.809 --> 00:49:39.769

    semester. Yeah. I mean, I'm not committed anywhere.

    00:49:39.869 --> 00:49:43.260

    I don't have any, like, super rigid plans. I

    00:49:43.260 --> 00:49:45.639

    definitely want to stay in San Diego. Okay, yeah.

    00:49:45.639 --> 00:49:47.599

    I mean, I can't imagine really living anywhere

    00:49:47.599 --> 00:49:50.519

    else. It's like when you're in paradise, you

    00:49:50.519 --> 00:49:52.420

    don't want to leave paradise. I agree with that.

    00:49:52.500 --> 00:49:56.300

    I agree with that. So, yeah, I think that's probably

    00:49:56.300 --> 00:49:57.840

    the most important thing is, like, location.

    00:49:58.420 --> 00:50:01.139

    And I know so many people here that also want

    00:50:01.139 --> 00:50:04.159

    to stay here. Yeah. I had thoughts of maybe going

    00:50:04.159 --> 00:50:06.239

    to Salt Lake City because so many people move

    00:50:06.239 --> 00:50:09.780

    out there to train. But I just don't like Salt

    00:50:09.780 --> 00:50:13.559

    Lake City very much. Ooh, yeah. I just prefer

    00:50:13.559 --> 00:50:16.280

    being next to, like, the ocean and not having,

    00:50:16.320 --> 00:50:19.320

    like, insanely hot summers and then cold winters.

    00:50:20.380 --> 00:50:22.940

    But the training's really good there. But I think

    00:50:22.940 --> 00:50:25.360

    building up, like, San Diego would be really

    00:50:25.360 --> 00:50:27.760

    nice because we have, like, kind of this thing

    00:50:27.760 --> 00:50:30.000

    going. I think if you, like, keep building it

    00:50:30.000 --> 00:50:33.019

    up, then we'll have kind of a training spot that's

    00:50:33.019 --> 00:50:35.440

    on par with Salt Lake City, I think. Oh, you

    00:50:35.440 --> 00:50:37.199

    think so? I think so. I mean, because we have...

    00:50:37.199 --> 00:50:39.400

    What about the National Training Center? Well...

    00:50:40.199 --> 00:50:42.099

    Yeah, I mean, that national training center is

    00:50:42.099 --> 00:50:47.420

    really nice, but they have only one coach there,

    00:50:47.619 --> 00:50:53.780

    Josh, versus here we have a lot of people that

    00:50:53.780 --> 00:50:58.679

    are kind of joined on the same ideas and are

    00:50:58.679 --> 00:51:02.760

    kind of building each other up with kind of the

    00:51:02.760 --> 00:51:07.239

    same goal in mind. So I think... If we just get

    00:51:07.239 --> 00:51:09.619

    the facilities right, I think we'll have a really

    00:51:09.619 --> 00:51:12.940

    good climbing place down here. I feel like we

    00:51:12.940 --> 00:51:15.860

    train at the wall climbing gym. I feel like the

    00:51:15.860 --> 00:51:20.460

    facility is pretty crazy for what the gym is.

    00:51:21.340 --> 00:51:24.980

    We have two spray walls, a whole back area where

    00:51:24.980 --> 00:51:28.039

    we can set anything. They have really good boulders

    00:51:28.039 --> 00:51:30.960

    in the main gym. Honestly, that's all you need.

    00:51:31.199 --> 00:51:33.239

    Especially seeing the gyms in Japan, they're

    00:51:33.239 --> 00:51:35.960

    really small, but they utilize their space really

    00:51:35.960 --> 00:51:39.639

    well. So we have a similar idea where we have

    00:51:39.639 --> 00:51:41.920

    a lot of space and we just have different things

    00:51:41.920 --> 00:51:45.719

    that kind of do different jobs for our climbing.

    00:51:45.940 --> 00:51:48.599

    And that's really all you need is different stations.

    00:51:49.159 --> 00:51:52.579

    And then in terms of Salt Lake's weather, I do

    00:51:52.579 --> 00:51:55.480

    agree that it's kind of crazy there. I was there

    00:51:55.480 --> 00:52:00.840

    last year, not the 2025 season, but the 2024

    00:52:00.840 --> 00:52:06.269

    season World Cup in Salt Lake. and it was 80

    00:52:06.269 --> 00:52:09.849

    degrees one day, and then the next day it was,

    00:52:09.869 --> 00:52:13.809

    like, snowing, and I was so pissed off. I hated

    00:52:13.809 --> 00:52:18.050

    that so much. And it was really windy. Well,

    00:52:18.110 --> 00:52:21.150

    the day was 80. It sucked. And then in terms

    00:52:21.150 --> 00:52:22.750

    of staying in San Diego, you mentioned really

    00:52:22.750 --> 00:52:24.889

    wanting to stay here. Is there anything else

    00:52:24.889 --> 00:52:26.550

    here that you really like to do? Like, are you

    00:52:26.550 --> 00:52:31.769

    a surfer? I do surf a lot, yeah. I mean, I just

    00:52:31.769 --> 00:52:35.980

    like the weather. Yeah. I feel like we have a

    00:52:35.980 --> 00:52:39.760

    good community here. Like in North Park, there's

    00:52:39.760 --> 00:52:41.639

    a lot of stuff to do. Those are really good restaurants.

    00:52:43.500 --> 00:52:47.440

    When I travel to other places, I realize how

    00:52:47.440 --> 00:52:51.260

    good we have it here. So that makes me want to

    00:52:51.260 --> 00:52:54.300

    stay even more. I got that. What about you? Is

    00:52:54.300 --> 00:52:55.420

    there anything else you'd like to do outside

    00:52:55.420 --> 00:52:59.539

    of climbing? I mean, not really anything related

    00:52:59.539 --> 00:53:03.000

    to San Diego. Sure, it doesn't have to be. Yeah.

    00:53:03.480 --> 00:53:06.139

    I don't surf or anything. I don't like the beach.

    00:53:06.440 --> 00:53:10.280

    Oh, you don't like the beach. No. Yeah. But I

    00:53:10.280 --> 00:53:13.099

    recently started working part -time as a stagehand.

    00:53:13.579 --> 00:53:18.519

    So, like, setting up concerts mostly and taking

    00:53:18.519 --> 00:53:22.000

    them down. I did, like, theater tech all throughout

    00:53:22.000 --> 00:53:24.480

    high school. It's kind of been an interest. I

    00:53:24.480 --> 00:53:27.920

    was like, I think this year is just a good time

    00:53:27.920 --> 00:53:31.239

    to join the industry. and, like, see what it's

    00:53:31.239 --> 00:53:35.300

    like. Hmm. Of, like, theater? Like, the live

    00:53:35.300 --> 00:53:38.199

    event industry. Oh, really? So I think it'd be

    00:53:38.199 --> 00:53:41.059

    cool to try to work my way up, like, maybe into

    00:53:41.059 --> 00:53:45.559

    rigging, like, hanging stuff up and, yeah. Have

    00:53:45.559 --> 00:53:46.880

    you worked with any of these rappers? Yeah, you

    00:53:46.880 --> 00:53:49.260

    should have helped me, like, set up this thing.

    00:53:49.659 --> 00:53:52.860

    I worked on Night Hearts Festival a couple weeks

    00:53:52.860 --> 00:53:56.239

    ago. Do you know Skrillex? Oh, yeah. You don't

    00:53:56.239 --> 00:53:58.940

    know Skrillex? You've never heard of Skrillex?

    00:53:59.340 --> 00:54:01.579

    I've never heard of Skrillex until that. What?

    00:54:02.059 --> 00:54:04.639

    That was... It's a generational thing. Oh, my

    00:54:04.639 --> 00:54:07.000

    God. Don't say it like that. I'm not that much

    00:54:07.000 --> 00:54:11.619

    older. No, I mean, I don't, like, know them.

    00:54:11.719 --> 00:54:13.619

    Like, I'm not a huge fan, but, like, I've heard

    00:54:13.619 --> 00:54:19.320

    of Skrillex. I'm working a WWE Survivor Series

    00:54:19.320 --> 00:54:22.260

    at Echo Park next week. Interesting. Have you

    00:54:22.260 --> 00:54:27.059

    heard of WWE? A generational thing? Yeah. Yeah.

    00:54:27.079 --> 00:54:29.460

    Huh. Okay, cool. Yeah, you should have helped

    00:54:29.460 --> 00:54:32.059

    me set up this. Oh, I don't know anything about

    00:54:32.059 --> 00:54:34.480

    audio. Oh, okay. So it's just like we're getting

    00:54:34.480 --> 00:54:38.579

    a lighting tech. Okay, well, these lights are

    00:54:38.579 --> 00:54:42.840

    very fancy. They're set up for me, I guess. Okay,

    00:54:42.900 --> 00:54:45.559

    cool. Good to know. Okay, I guess now we can

    00:54:45.559 --> 00:54:47.820

    get into some of the audience submitted questions

    00:54:47.820 --> 00:54:52.960

    that came in. So the first one, this was from

    00:54:52.960 --> 00:54:55.860

    Discord. With your experience from the team event,

    00:54:56.099 --> 00:54:58.260

    how would you have wanted a team climbing event

    00:54:58.260 --> 00:55:01.360

    to be shaped differently, if anything? I think

    00:55:01.360 --> 00:55:04.480

    it went pretty well. It was quite well executed,

    00:55:04.679 --> 00:55:08.199

    yeah. For the first version of this format, I

    00:55:08.199 --> 00:55:11.659

    think it went really well. I don't know if you,

    00:55:11.880 --> 00:55:13.780

    because it wasn't live streamed, but after the

    00:55:13.780 --> 00:55:17.219

    comp there was a speed traverse. Oh, no, I didn't

    00:55:17.219 --> 00:55:20.900

    see that. Yeah, it was crazy. They took down

    00:55:20.900 --> 00:55:24.780

    all the climbing walls. routes on the boulder

    00:55:24.780 --> 00:55:27.679

    wall and they put up like this really big traverse

    00:55:27.679 --> 00:55:30.739

    that we just like ran through and they're like

    00:55:30.739 --> 00:55:35.820

    really big jumps and it was like it showcased

    00:55:35.820 --> 00:55:37.500

    like just the experience of climbing I think

    00:55:37.500 --> 00:55:40.539

    the entire comp was just like this is what climbing

    00:55:40.539 --> 00:55:45.519

    is so I think it did a great job and uh the the

    00:55:45.519 --> 00:55:48.079

    audience was like really psyched for a couple

    00:55:48.079 --> 00:55:51.360

    of the rounds it was they brought in like school

    00:55:51.360 --> 00:55:54.019

    kids Yeah, they brought, like, a bunch of schools,

    00:55:54.139 --> 00:55:56.679

    and they were just, like, super psyched to watch.

    00:55:57.239 --> 00:56:00.239

    And you would just, like, be, like, really showboating

    00:56:00.239 --> 00:56:02.699

    on these routes, and, like, as soon as you did

    00:56:02.699 --> 00:56:05.900

    anything cool, it would go crazy. So it was really

    00:56:05.900 --> 00:56:08.440

    cool. I honestly can't think of anything that

    00:56:08.440 --> 00:56:13.280

    I would change. Yeah, I think it was very well

    00:56:13.280 --> 00:56:16.059

    executed, especially for the first one. Would

    00:56:16.059 --> 00:56:18.760

    you want to do more of these, or do you think...

    00:56:18.760 --> 00:56:21.219

    I don't know if the goal of this event was to,

    00:56:21.260 --> 00:56:23.840

    like... test it out and see if like world cups

    00:56:23.840 --> 00:56:25.659

    are always going to be like that but how would

    00:56:25.659 --> 00:56:27.539

    you feel if like the format changed more towards

    00:56:27.539 --> 00:56:32.260

    something like this i actually don't i would

    00:56:32.260 --> 00:56:34.960

    not prefer world cups being this format because

    00:56:34.960 --> 00:56:37.719

    it's hard to be really competitive because the

    00:56:37.719 --> 00:56:41.719

    routes are easier and it's like for the like

    00:56:41.719 --> 00:56:44.920

    mixed boulder a lot of the guys would like do

    00:56:44.920 --> 00:56:48.039

    it in a few attempts and the kind of discrepancy

    00:56:48.039 --> 00:56:50.420

    and results would be like if the women got it

    00:56:50.879 --> 00:56:52.920

    So it's a lot harder to be competitive in. But

    00:56:52.920 --> 00:56:54.840

    it is just, like, really fun. So I would do it

    00:56:54.840 --> 00:56:58.199

    occasionally. But it's hard to do, like, championship

    00:56:58.199 --> 00:57:00.480

    events like this. Yeah. I think it would be cool

    00:57:00.480 --> 00:57:02.679

    to hold, like, one of these kinds of events at

    00:57:02.679 --> 00:57:04.500

    the end of the season just as, like, a fun way

    00:57:04.500 --> 00:57:07.320

    to cap it off. Yeah, I'd really enjoy seeing

    00:57:07.320 --> 00:57:09.719

    it, like, more consistently, like, maybe every

    00:57:09.719 --> 00:57:13.380

    year. Yeah, I forgot to ask earlier about, I

    00:57:13.380 --> 00:57:16.599

    guess, like, how the, like, gender -combined

    00:57:16.599 --> 00:57:19.019

    boulders felt. How did that feel for, like, both

    00:57:19.019 --> 00:57:23.070

    of you? I think it's really hard to set, like,

    00:57:23.070 --> 00:57:28.610

    mixed boulders that, like, balance well between

    00:57:28.610 --> 00:57:30.230

    the two genders. I think they did a pretty good

    00:57:30.230 --> 00:57:33.090

    job. But I think for boulders, like, it always

    00:57:33.090 --> 00:57:35.869

    has to be slab. And that just makes it a little

    00:57:35.869 --> 00:57:38.809

    boring. But I think it was good to test out.

    00:57:39.230 --> 00:57:42.730

    Did it feel, like, reachy? No, it felt pretty

    00:57:42.730 --> 00:57:45.550

    good. Yeah, it felt fine. It's always going to

    00:57:45.550 --> 00:57:48.230

    be really technical slabs because you can't just

    00:57:48.230 --> 00:57:51.380

    have, like, a really powerful climb. Yeah. And

    00:57:51.380 --> 00:57:54.219

    so, yeah, it's not as fun to watch. I think Slab

    00:57:54.219 --> 00:57:56.440

    isn't as fun to watch because you're just, like,

    00:57:56.480 --> 00:57:58.420

    standing on the wall for, like, a minute straight.

    00:57:58.599 --> 00:58:02.800

    Yeah. But our first, it wasn't live streamed,

    00:58:02.800 --> 00:58:05.659

    but our first qualities route for the mixed boulder

    00:58:05.659 --> 00:58:08.199

    was actually pretty technical. There were, like,

    00:58:08.199 --> 00:58:10.579

    some small crimps, and there were a few girls

    00:58:10.579 --> 00:58:12.260

    that did it and then, like, a few guys that didn't

    00:58:12.260 --> 00:58:13.820

    do it. So I think that one was actually really

    00:58:13.820 --> 00:58:17.880

    well set. Like, some good tiebreakers for that

    00:58:17.880 --> 00:58:20.719

    one. Yeah. Which was cool. Yeah, I think for

    00:58:20.719 --> 00:58:24.019

    finals I saw some discussion on maybe like Reddit

    00:58:24.019 --> 00:58:28.960

    where people were saying that the finals mixed

    00:58:28.960 --> 00:58:32.760

    route was like a bit reachy looking for the women.

    00:58:33.500 --> 00:58:37.239

    Maybe like the last move. Yeah. Yeah. I wasn't

    00:58:37.239 --> 00:58:39.960

    sure if it was just if it was actually reachy

    00:58:39.960 --> 00:58:42.320

    or if it just looked like that because we saw

    00:58:42.320 --> 00:58:44.420

    it look so much easier for like the taller guys

    00:58:44.420 --> 00:58:47.800

    to do it. I mean, Mao did it. Yeah. And she's

    00:58:47.800 --> 00:58:50.079

    like. really short yeah so i don't think there

    00:58:50.079 --> 00:58:53.699

    was a hype problem at all yeah yeah maybe if

    00:58:53.699 --> 00:58:55.380

    you have like i'm more in there there'll be like

    00:58:55.380 --> 00:58:59.400

    a question yeah yeah oh but then there would

    00:58:59.400 --> 00:59:02.880

    just be the whole argument about yeah yeah okay

    00:59:02.880 --> 00:59:06.960

    cool um next question from the audience um any

    00:59:06.960 --> 00:59:09.400

    memories from youth training or advice that stuck

    00:59:09.400 --> 00:59:13.719

    with you there's like a famous like idea from

    00:59:13.719 --> 00:59:18.349

    al it's like uh kind of the Like, instructions

    00:59:18.349 --> 00:59:20.630

    of climbing, I guess you could say. Where it's,

    00:59:20.670 --> 00:59:27.829

    like, you throw, catch, settle, throw. It's,

    00:59:27.829 --> 00:59:30.170

    like, how you do, like, a move or something.

    00:59:30.389 --> 00:59:32.449

    Or, like, even a climb. It's just, like, what

    00:59:32.449 --> 00:59:33.730

    you're doing the entire time is you're, like,

    00:59:33.730 --> 00:59:37.889

    throwing to a hold, you catch it, and there's,

    00:59:37.909 --> 00:59:39.969

    like, the time that you're settling to prepare

    00:59:39.969 --> 00:59:43.989

    for the next hold or the next move. And that

    00:59:43.989 --> 00:59:48.019

    idea was, like, kind of what... started how we

    00:59:48.019 --> 00:59:51.099

    trained at class five, I think. And then like

    00:59:51.099 --> 00:59:53.920

    all of our ideas kind of flowed from that. I

    00:59:53.920 --> 00:59:57.039

    was like, oh, this is how you should throw. This

    00:59:57.039 --> 00:59:59.619

    is how you should catch. And then this is like

    00:59:59.619 --> 01:00:03.820

    why it matters. It's like a weird way to think

    01:00:03.820 --> 01:00:07.159

    about it. I think maybe for a lot of people,

    01:00:07.179 --> 01:00:09.619

    it's like really weird to understand. Yeah, like

    01:00:09.619 --> 01:00:12.949

    what are you supposed to do? Like, that's just

    01:00:12.949 --> 01:00:16.590

    it. Okay. It's like a language thing. I guess

    01:00:16.590 --> 01:00:19.590

    you just have to, like, feel it and, like, understand

    01:00:19.590 --> 01:00:23.130

    it. You understand it when you, like, start to

    01:00:23.130 --> 01:00:25.989

    feel it out. It's hard to describe in, like,

    01:00:25.989 --> 01:00:29.210

    words, I guess. Is there, like, a tip you can

    01:00:29.210 --> 01:00:32.349

    maybe give to, like, people who want to get better

    01:00:32.349 --> 01:00:36.590

    at climbing in order to, like, do this? Or, like,

    01:00:36.590 --> 01:00:39.630

    something that made it click for you? I feel

    01:00:39.630 --> 01:00:44.659

    like just... the intention behind like figuring

    01:00:44.659 --> 01:00:48.639

    out what part of the move feels hard because

    01:00:48.639 --> 01:00:52.119

    the throw catch settle throw is just like the

    01:00:52.119 --> 01:00:54.579

    move in its entirety and there's different parts

    01:00:54.579 --> 01:00:57.460

    of that kind of section that can feel harder

    01:00:57.460 --> 01:01:00.719

    if it's like oh this move what's really hard

    01:01:00.719 --> 01:01:03.880

    for me is throw is like really weird like the

    01:01:03.880 --> 01:01:05.679

    catch the end position is like fine it's like

    01:01:05.679 --> 01:01:07.840

    a good hold but it's just like a really weird

    01:01:07.840 --> 01:01:11.429

    throw then you have to like really kind of hone

    01:01:11.429 --> 01:01:15.289

    in on why does this throw feel weird you know

    01:01:15.289 --> 01:01:17.489

    and then you like figure if it's like oh it's

    01:01:17.489 --> 01:01:19.230

    just like a really weird squeeze or the foot's

    01:01:19.230 --> 01:01:21.969

    bad and that's where you go even deeper and you're

    01:01:21.969 --> 01:01:23.750

    like okay how do I make this foot better or how

    01:01:23.750 --> 01:01:26.869

    do I you know connect these two holes okay yeah

    01:01:26.869 --> 01:01:28.929

    that makes sense yeah you're just really specific

    01:01:28.929 --> 01:01:32.610

    and like um just your intention is like what

    01:01:32.610 --> 01:01:37.250

    makes you better I think an idea I was introduced

    01:01:37.250 --> 01:01:41.530

    to pretty early on was like practice versus performance

    01:01:41.530 --> 01:01:44.909

    um when you're thinking about a comp yeah i always

    01:01:44.909 --> 01:01:48.469

    thought like like i was like okay like maybe

    01:01:48.469 --> 01:01:50.710

    maybe these locals are all practice right they're

    01:01:50.710 --> 01:01:53.269

    like sort of low stakes but like nationals youth

    01:01:53.269 --> 01:01:54.889

    nationals has to be performance right because

    01:01:54.889 --> 01:01:57.409

    like if it isn't then what is but i feel like

    01:01:57.409 --> 01:02:02.789

    i slowly realized over time that like nothing

    01:02:02.789 --> 01:02:05.369

    really is performance like it's all practice

    01:02:05.369 --> 01:02:09.619

    for the next thing and that mindset kind of helps

    01:02:09.619 --> 01:02:13.019

    you relax and see the comp as a learning experience

    01:02:13.019 --> 01:02:16.980

    and also just like you know a place to have fun

    01:02:16.980 --> 01:02:19.940

    um instead of like putting a lot of pressure

    01:02:19.940 --> 01:02:23.699

    on yourself to succeed did you see on uh did

    01:02:23.699 --> 01:02:26.840

    you watch the live streams on youtube for the

    01:02:26.840 --> 01:02:29.780

    football yeah there was a comment on it that

    01:02:29.780 --> 01:02:33.519

    said i didn't read the comments um that japan

    01:02:33.519 --> 01:02:37.219

    brought the avengers yeah and then the us brought

    01:02:37.690 --> 01:02:40.309

    The Benchwarmers, Benchwarmers. Yeah, how do

    01:02:40.309 --> 01:02:43.309

    you feel about that? I think it's fine. I mean,

    01:02:43.309 --> 01:02:45.929

    we definitely weren't, like, the strongest on

    01:02:45.929 --> 01:02:48.090

    the U .S., but I think we did actually really

    01:02:48.090 --> 01:02:51.570

    well regardless. Yeah, I think for being, like,

    01:02:51.590 --> 01:02:55.550

    the, I don't know, B -team, Benchwarmers, Benchwarmers,

    01:02:55.550 --> 01:02:57.550

    we were pretty good. Yeah, I think we did good.

    01:02:57.550 --> 01:03:01.170

    Not bad at all. I mean, still made finals. Yeah,

    01:03:01.210 --> 01:03:05.059

    still made both finals, which was cool. But I

    01:03:05.059 --> 01:03:07.159

    saw some people defending us. They're like, well,

    01:03:07.219 --> 01:03:09.699

    they made both finals, so they're pretty good.

    01:03:09.920 --> 01:03:12.460

    Yeah, it's pretty good to make both finals. Yeah,

    01:03:12.500 --> 01:03:15.679

    I guess I didn't ask during the episode, but

    01:03:15.679 --> 01:03:18.659

    what are your guys' outdoor goals, if you have

    01:03:18.659 --> 01:03:22.500

    any? I've been trying buttermilker in Bishop

    01:03:22.500 --> 01:03:26.239

    for quite a while now. And every year I get a

    01:03:26.239 --> 01:03:29.880

    little bit closer because I only try it one day

    01:03:29.880 --> 01:03:33.519

    a year. Yeah, fair enough. So it's like one year,

    01:03:33.639 --> 01:03:36.840

    it's this really big move, and I wasn't strong

    01:03:36.840 --> 01:03:39.739

    enough or tall enough. And then last year, I

    01:03:39.739 --> 01:03:42.159

    was able to do the stand from it, which is a

    01:03:42.159 --> 01:03:45.579

    12. And then hopefully this year, if I go back,

    01:03:45.719 --> 01:03:50.099

    I'll maybe send that one. Yeah, every year, I

    01:03:50.099 --> 01:03:53.599

    just try to take off another climb. So last year,

    01:03:53.619 --> 01:03:57.159

    I did a mystery, which you probably don't know

    01:03:57.159 --> 01:03:58.800

    it because you're not thinking about outdoor

    01:03:58.800 --> 01:04:01.920

    climbing. Is it in San Diego? No, no, it's in

    01:04:01.920 --> 01:04:04.860

    Bishop. Oh, okay. Yeah. Well, like SoCal area,

    01:04:04.980 --> 01:04:08.440

    I mean. The Buttermilker's also in Bishop. Oh.

    01:04:08.619 --> 01:04:12.739

    Yes. We only go to Bishop. I mean, there is outdoor

    01:04:12.739 --> 01:04:17.139

    climbing in San Diego, which I think would be

    01:04:17.139 --> 01:04:19.820

    cool to go to. But I just have not experienced

    01:04:19.820 --> 01:04:25.019

    it that way. Okay. Yeah, I just go wherever everybody

    01:04:25.019 --> 01:04:28.800

    else goes, honestly. So long for the ride. I've

    01:04:28.800 --> 01:04:31.739

    been trying Maze of Death, which is also in Bishop,

    01:04:31.840 --> 01:04:35.780

    like the past two years, and some of my teammates

    01:04:35.780 --> 01:04:38.460

    are not really psyched on it, so I think I want

    01:04:38.460 --> 01:04:41.219

    to try to do it this year. Okay. Is Bishop not

    01:04:41.219 --> 01:04:45.039

    considered SoCal? It's pretty central. Oh, okay.

    01:04:45.739 --> 01:04:51.480

    I've been there once. Yeah? Yeah. So I have been

    01:04:51.480 --> 01:04:54.400

    there. Five, six -hour drive up north? Yeah,

    01:04:54.420 --> 01:04:57.659

    that feels like it's in California. I wouldn't

    01:04:57.659 --> 01:05:00.460

    consider it. Okay. Maybe some people would. I

    01:05:00.460 --> 01:05:02.960

    stayed in a really cool, like, goat farm Airbnb

    01:05:02.960 --> 01:05:06.219

    there. Really? But then it burned down. While

    01:05:06.219 --> 01:05:09.559

    you were in it? No, I was not in it, but it burned

    01:05:09.559 --> 01:05:12.119

    down. So now, unfortunately, people can't stay

    01:05:12.119 --> 01:05:15.739

    there anymore. But I would recommend it if it

    01:05:15.739 --> 01:05:18.820

    was still existing. But maybe one day they'll,

    01:05:18.840 --> 01:05:22.590

    like, build it up again. Yeah. Okay, I only had

    01:05:22.590 --> 01:05:26.150

    one last question. And it was also, it was like

    01:05:26.150 --> 01:05:28.869

    an audience question just for Declan. And it

    01:05:28.869 --> 01:05:31.070

    was also not really an audience question. It

    01:05:31.070 --> 01:05:35.690

    was Jaden's question. So, yeah, I guess you beat

    01:05:35.690 --> 01:05:39.010

    Elden Ring, Night, Rain. Do you want to discuss

    01:05:39.010 --> 01:05:44.769

    that? Well, I beat Cruz. Do you know Cruz Padilla?

    01:05:45.070 --> 01:05:47.550

    I mean, I've seen all these people. He's like,

    01:05:47.670 --> 01:05:51.280

    I've... grown up with him competing in youth.

    01:05:51.719 --> 01:05:53.940

    So he's one of my biggest competitors, but also

    01:05:53.940 --> 01:05:56.099

    one of my best friends. Because we have pretty

    01:05:56.099 --> 01:06:01.159

    different styles when it comes to climbing. And

    01:06:01.159 --> 01:06:03.639

    so we'll just play games on the weekends or something.

    01:06:04.280 --> 01:06:08.920

    And Jayden also joins, but we beat the final

    01:06:08.920 --> 01:06:11.840

    boss without Jayden. He was pretty upset. But

    01:06:11.840 --> 01:06:14.440

    it was his fault anyway. Wait, is it a multiplayer

    01:06:14.440 --> 01:06:18.949

    game? Yeah. Oh. It's like multiplayer, but you're

    01:06:18.949 --> 01:06:24.730

    fighting computer bosses. Oh, okay. Yeah. Oh,

    01:06:24.849 --> 01:06:26.409

    I didn't know it was multiplayer. I thought people

    01:06:26.409 --> 01:06:27.929

    were just out there playing that by themselves.

    01:06:28.409 --> 01:06:31.409

    Well, I'm staring at the wheel. Should we spin

    01:06:31.409 --> 01:06:34.289

    the wheel? Since we're filming in this interesting

    01:06:34.289 --> 01:06:42.909

    studio, we get to spin the wheel. Okay. I might

    01:06:42.909 --> 01:06:47.920

    cut this out. Okay, that's a good one. Are you

    01:06:47.920 --> 01:06:50.659

    giving him two free concert tickets? Oh, crap.

    01:06:51.679 --> 01:07:02.920

    Let's spin again. Okay. Oh, my God. What concert

    01:07:02.920 --> 01:07:06.300

    are you taking me to? It's fate. I guess it is

    01:07:06.300 --> 01:07:09.579

    fate. Do you guys want concert tickets to something?

    01:07:10.079 --> 01:07:14.420

    I don't care. Skrillex? Yeah, next time Skrillex.

    01:07:14.809 --> 01:07:20.070

    If it's two free concert tickets. Relationship

    01:07:20.070 --> 01:07:22.570

    advice. Yeah, let's get your guys' relationship

    01:07:22.570 --> 01:07:24.590

    advice. Do you want relationship advice, or are

    01:07:24.590 --> 01:07:25.590

    you giving it to us? I think you guys should

    01:07:25.590 --> 01:07:29.389

    give your general relationship advice as 18 -year

    01:07:29.389 --> 01:07:34.349

    -olds. Go climbing. Okay. I think that was actually

    01:07:34.349 --> 01:07:37.570

    pretty good advice. Legitimately? Yeah. Legitimately.

    01:07:37.570 --> 01:07:40.710

    Yeah, I think it is good. Like, see how they

    01:07:40.710 --> 01:07:45.360

    think. Yeah, it's problem solving. Okay. Yeah,

    01:07:45.420 --> 01:07:47.360

    if they just, like, get really mad at a boulder.

    01:07:47.900 --> 01:07:50.699

    True. Maybe that's a red flag. Yeah, when they,

    01:07:50.760 --> 01:07:52.380

    like, come down and then they, like, punch the

    01:07:52.380 --> 01:07:54.739

    boulder. Yeah. That's not good. That's a red

    01:07:54.739 --> 01:07:57.639

    flag. We don't want that. Yeah. Okay. Do you

    01:07:57.639 --> 01:08:01.920

    have any relationship advice? Well, I'm curious

    01:08:01.920 --> 01:08:07.360

    if you guys would prefer to, like, date climbers

    01:08:07.360 --> 01:08:11.099

    or non -climbers. That's interesting. A lot of

    01:08:11.099 --> 01:08:15.280

    my friends... say they'd rather not. Because

    01:08:15.280 --> 01:08:17.779

    it's really weird if you go to a competition,

    01:08:18.020 --> 01:08:21.260

    and you're like, I have to focus on this thing

    01:08:21.260 --> 01:08:22.859

    that I've been training for for a really long

    01:08:22.859 --> 01:08:27.079

    time. And you're like, oh, actually, I also have

    01:08:27.079 --> 01:08:29.479

    to think about this other person that they're

    01:08:29.479 --> 01:08:33.119

    also focused on. I think if you do it right,

    01:08:33.199 --> 01:08:36.659

    it's fine. But for the most part, it's at a level

    01:08:36.659 --> 01:08:39.560

    of stress that's just not needed. But I feel

    01:08:39.560 --> 01:08:43.420

    like normal people might, I find it hard to,

    01:08:43.479 --> 01:08:46.699

    like, understand why you're just in the gym so

    01:08:46.699 --> 01:08:49.000

    much. Yeah, yeah. But that's the same with, like,

    01:08:49.020 --> 01:08:51.500

    a lot of sports are like that. That's true. Yeah.

    01:08:51.880 --> 01:08:54.760

    Yeah, I mean, I don't know if other sports. I

    01:08:54.760 --> 01:08:57.340

    guess if you could date someone else who's, like,

    01:08:57.359 --> 01:08:59.439

    doing another sport at a similar level. Yeah,

    01:08:59.439 --> 01:09:01.760

    that's true. But, yeah. Yeah, but then you're

    01:09:01.760 --> 01:09:03.720

    not competing against, like, you're not competing

    01:09:03.720 --> 01:09:06.159

    together. Oh, so you're just talking about, like,

    01:09:06.180 --> 01:09:08.760

    people in the competition scene. Yeah. Okay.

    01:09:08.880 --> 01:09:11.520

    Yeah. That's a very small scene. I guess maybe

    01:09:11.520 --> 01:09:13.739

    I interpreted the question differently, but I

    01:09:13.739 --> 01:09:16.460

    think if they're doing a different sport, I think

    01:09:16.460 --> 01:09:21.039

    it's fine. So date climbers and go climb. Go

    01:09:21.039 --> 01:09:23.239

    climb. Okay, I'm going to leave it at that. I'm

    01:09:23.239 --> 01:09:26.279

    not giving any advice. Okay, cool. Well, I think

    01:09:26.279 --> 01:09:28.119

    that's all the questions I had then. Thanks for

    01:09:28.119 --> 01:09:31.819

    joining me today. Any last -minute words of wisdom

    01:09:31.819 --> 01:09:34.619

    you guys want to get out there? I have no wisdom.

    01:09:34.699 --> 01:09:38.600

    I'm not a wise person. I'm not very deep. Okay.

    01:09:39.079 --> 01:09:41.479

    All right, then anything you want to shout out

    01:09:41.479 --> 01:09:44.359

    or let people know where they can find you? Shout

    01:09:44.359 --> 01:09:47.020

    out Class 5. Oh, yeah. Yeah, shout out Class

    01:09:47.020 --> 01:09:51.319

    5. With their weird training methodology. Yeah.

    01:09:51.859 --> 01:09:54.399

    Okay, cool. Well, then, thank you guys for joining

    01:09:54.399 --> 01:09:56.039

    me today, and it was good to talk to you guys.

    01:09:56.300 --> 01:09:57.960

    Thank you. Thanks so much for having us. Thanks

    01:09:57.960 --> 01:10:01.060

    for joining in the rain. Thank you so much for

    01:10:01.060 --> 01:10:03.420

    making it to the end of the podcast. Don't forget

    01:10:03.420 --> 01:10:05.920

    to like and subscribe if you enjoyed. Otherwise

    01:10:05.920 --> 01:10:09.380

    you are a super big climber. If you're listening

    01:10:09.380 --> 01:10:11.939

    on a podcasting platform, I'd appreciate if you

    01:10:11.939 --> 01:10:14.899

    rate it five stars and you can continue the discussion

    01:10:14.899 --> 01:10:18.039

    on the free competition climbing discord linked

    01:10:18.039 --> 01:10:20.500

    in the description. Thanks again for listening.

Jinni Xia
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50: Hannes Van Duysen, Slab King