56: Mickael Mawem, French Boulderer
Mickael is a french boulderer and he is the bouldering world champ from Bern 2023. In this episode, we have an extremely honest conversation about how growing up poor motivated him to make money as a climber, why he stuck with climbing despite the lack of financial prospects, what his training looks like which includes warming up with 80 pull-ups, and of course, what happened during the Bern world champ finals. Shoutout to Madrock for hosting this interview at their headquarters and big thanks to Mickael for doing his first English longform interview!
Timestamps
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
1:30 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
3:46 - Starting climbing with his brother Bassa
7:45 - AUDIENCE Q: Being one of the few black climbers in the IFSC
13:39 - Affording climbing when growing up poor
24:31 - Pro climbing only pays enough for the present
28:10 - Why he would not choose climbing in hindsight
30:51 - Why he still chose climbing
34:34 - AUDIENCE Q: Will you ever compete again in the IFSC?
38:33 - The goal: be rich
45:25 - Bern World Champs finals boulders
53:26 - Encountering no-tex for the first time ever
1:01:59 - Mickael's crazy pull up training
1:06:12 - How to work on your technique
1:11:47 - The secret to French slab
1:14:28 - Why he trains alone
1:21:59 - Keeping up with the evolution of climbing
1:25:44 - His future in climbing?
1:31:01 - New climbing goal
1:33:38 - AUDIENCE Q: Who were your role models growing up?
1:34:46 - AUDIENCE Q: What's your family like?
1:39:28 - AUDIENCE Q: How to maintain strength without getting injured?
1:44:50 - Where to find Mickael
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WEBVTT
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Oh, I'm the world champion? It's okay? I have
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my goal? Wow. It's finished? Wow. And I have
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a goal. I have a goal. It's to be rich. And I
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do around 60 to 100 pull -ups all the world.
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Wow. A lot of people, when I go climbing in the
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gym, they say, why don't you come climb at 7
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o 'clock? A lot of people, you can climb. A lot
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of people want a picture with you, autograph,
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whatever. This was the best moment. We are a
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climber because we like to share, like that.
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Welcome to another episode of the That's Not
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World Climbing podcast. I'm your host, Jinni,
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and I'm excited to introduce my in -person guest
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for today, Mickael Mawem. Micka is a French boulder,
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and he is the bouldering world champ from Bern
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2023. In this episode, we have an extremely honest
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conversation about how growing up poor motivated
00:01:00.320 --> 00:01:03.579
him to make money as a climber, why he stuck
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with climbing despite the lack of financial prospects,
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what his training looks like, which includes
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warming up with a pull -ups and of course what
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happened during the burn world champ finals shout
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out to mad rock for hosting this interview at
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their headquarters and i hope you enjoy this
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episode with Micka. Please pardon this brief intermission,
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but I'm excited to talk about Mad Rock's newest
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pulling. Feel free to message me if you have
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for 10 % off your entire Mad Rock order. Thank
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you to Mad Rock for helping to sponsor the podcast.
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Now, back to the show. How has LA been so far?
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This is kind of your first time in LA? My second
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time in LA. Second, first real time in LA. Yes,
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first real time, because my first time I don't
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stay in LA, it's just for a TV show. Yeah. Just
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for a TV show, and now I see LA. The people of
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LA. What was the show about? I didn't even, I
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didn't hear about it until today. On Netflix,
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it's Ultimate Beastmaster. Okay. Yeah, it's after,
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it's 2016, we come. And with my brother, for
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us to show TV, it's a big moment, like, US show,
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like, it's a big ninja war. Oh, yeah, yeah. More
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strong, more strong, more hard. Yeah. And then
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after this, you're going to Red Rock. What are
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your plans there? At Red Rock, it's... With Mad
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Rock, we want to take the time for climbing.
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I don't have a plan for climbing this boulder.
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In case that, just climb a lot. I like climbing.
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I like climbing. I like climbing a lot. I don't
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like... You know, I train for a lot of fear,
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only for one goal. Yeah. Just for performance.
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Now when I go outdoor, it's like for chill. Okay.
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For climb, for... Enjoyment. Exactly. And share
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a big moment with some people. And that's the
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priority. Just the pleasure. Because competition
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is not a pleasure. It's not a pleasure. You have
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the pleasure when you have the result. Just before,
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it's not a pleasure. Yeah, that's interesting
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that you said that. We'll definitely get into
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that. But for now, before we get too deep into
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things, how did you and your brother get into
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climbing and competing? I guess, like, what interested
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you about it? Oh, my brother started climbing
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before me. Before me, like, six months, eight
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months before me. How old was he? He started
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around 16. Oh, that's actually really late. Yeah.
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Yeah, yeah. From my brother to 16 and me 11.
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Yeah. 11 because we have six year difference.
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And... Yeah, it starts, it's like just a friend
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of my brother. In my small city in France, we
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have an outdoor wall. It's like just, it's nothing.
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It's just an outdoor wall, artificial outdoor
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wall. And he climbed just for fun with a friend.
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And one friend said, okay, maybe you can go in
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school. In school, we have a small climbing wall
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and maybe you can come and just play with me
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and just go. And he go one time and he say, okay,
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it's good. It's good. It's a good moment. And
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we start like that. And after six, eight, ten
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months, I don't remember exactly the time. Just
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my brother say, Mike, you want to come with me?
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Yeah, for sure. If my brother tell me like, come
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with me, play a little bit of sports. Yeah, I
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go. And directly when I put my ass on this climbing
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gym, it's not a climbing gym. It's like just
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a... For school, you know, you have a place for
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football, handball, whatever, and just a small
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climbing walk. And I come and directly I'm in
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a good environment with good people and respectful
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people. And that's directly I say, OK, wow, what
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a place. It's amazing because I can be me. And
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that's why I want to stay in the climbing team.
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Not because climbing is cool, the movement is
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good or whatever. No, because when I put my feet,
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my body, when I come into the climbing gym, just
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it's like, okay, I'm in a family. I'm in a place.
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I can be me and say, wow, I want to stay here.
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So you don't like the movement of climbing? Youth.
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After some years, I found some parts of climbing
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I like. For example, I like training a lot. And
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if you like training, you like pain. If you like
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pain, you can like climbing. Because climbing
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is pain. Yeah, I know. You need to accept the
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pain all the time. If you climb for the pleasure
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or not, you go climbing, up, you touch a hole,
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like, oh, no, the legs, you sleep, this, that.
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You have all the time, maybe all the week. If
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you climb two, three times in a week, you have
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a small injury. Small, just small. That is climbing.
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For me, I found some parts in climbing I like.
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Just in first. I climb. It's just for the environment.
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And after some years, it's because I don't have
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the choice to come back and change my life. Why
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change my life? And I like for sure climbing.
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I found, yeah, it's a good world. Just for me,
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it's just a step in my life. It's just a step.
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It's not finished. It's just a step. I guess
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one of the audience questions that had come in
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kind of related to the community around climbing.
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How did you feel being one of the few black climbers
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on the circuit and then growing up in that environment?
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Yeah. I'm, you know, about that. I never opened
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my eyes on me, what's happened. It's just, I
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go in competition. I won the world for a lot
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of years. It's just for me. It's just for my
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family. It's just for my brother. And I don't
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put politics or I'm black or whatever in my sport
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because it's only for me. And for sure, I have
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a lot of questions about that. I don't see a
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lot of black people. And not just black people,
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Arab people. Before, at the beginning when I
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started, we didn't see a lot of Asian people
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coming climbing. It's not just about black people,
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just for sure now, if you check the list of competitors,
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you see just two black men. It's twins from Canada.
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And just that. And in high, high level. No one,
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only my brother and me. And I think, you know,
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we talk about that sometimes with my brother
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about why. And we try to understand why we don't
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farm a lot of black people, some communities
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don't have a lot of money. And I have a story.
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My brother goes for five years to work in New
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Caledonia. And he come in a place, it's like,
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it's a city, it's a big problem in New Caledonia
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because you have the white, you have some local
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people, and he fights all the time because white
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people take all the work, money, and the local
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don't have nothing. That's it. It's the life.
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It's that. That's when my brother come in this
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city from... To manage the gym, the gym, it's
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an outdoor gym. Directly, all the local, young
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local, normally have a lot of problems with the
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gym because the gyms are in a place, are in a
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local place. When Basa comes, a black man, to
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manage a big gym like that, all the young, the
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local guys come to Basa and say, hey, you can
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manage that, you. You black people, you are black.
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Yes, yes, I work for that. He said, okay, it
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was good. And now all the young have more respect.
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I have more respect for my brother. And my brother
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said, okay, come climbing. All the young come
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climbing, come climbing. He come climbing. It's,
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you know, the local young in New Caledonia are
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very strong, have a lot of energy directly, so
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a lot of... Good clever, say, oh, you can maybe
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start climbing. And directly, all the young say,
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no, I don't want climbing. I don't want to do.
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My brother just want to know for what. All young
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say, we can have a good life with climbing. My
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brother say, it's possible, just maybe it's very
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hard. And the young say, okay, I don't want time.
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i prefer take a bowl play football and maybe
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maybe i'm i have more chance to have some more
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money and to have a good life yeah and and it's
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for that i think uh we don't found a lot of black
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people uh climb because uh there's not a lot
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of money in it not a lot of money and and you
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need to choose a way you can have a good life
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like okay you don't put off people and like me
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i don't i don't i don't want to use uh the sport
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only for pleasure what what i have what i do
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all the all the day it's for something for a
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goal all the time it's just for that and and
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the second part it's uh the price timing is expensive
00:12:25.779 --> 00:12:29.639
yeah climbing in a gym it's depending country
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it's 50. 60, 100 euro, dollar for memberships.
00:12:36.779 --> 00:12:42.460
More than that here? More. Shoes, more to 150
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euro, dollar for the good shoes. Armets, short
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calls a month, you need to buy a shirt. It's
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very expensive and you need to be very strong
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if you want to, if you want. and if you're used
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to climbing for your work too. And for me, maybe
00:13:05.899 --> 00:13:10.720
some reasons we don't find some people, like
00:13:10.720 --> 00:13:15.019
black people, African people, because it's really
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expensive. And to have a good level, if you check
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the list in IFSC or World Climbing, if you check
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the list. It's only country where you can find
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a lot of money. Europe, now China, Japan, it's
00:13:35.919 --> 00:13:41.750
okay. And just that. Yeah, there's a lot that
00:13:41.750 --> 00:13:45.710
goes into growing a climbing career. And you
00:13:45.710 --> 00:13:47.549
mentioned growing up without having a lot of
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money. How did you manage the finances of training
00:13:50.509 --> 00:13:52.870
for competition climbing? Especially, I think,
00:13:52.870 --> 00:13:54.929
getting into competition is even more expensive
00:13:54.929 --> 00:13:57.370
because you need to get experience in different
00:13:57.370 --> 00:14:00.009
gyms and different holds and styles. I don't
00:14:00.009 --> 00:14:02.710
know, it's a lot. Yeah, if you're not sure, you
00:14:02.710 --> 00:14:05.309
need to be very strong after that. You need to
00:14:05.309 --> 00:14:10.960
be very strong. My brother and me, we have nothing.
00:14:11.159 --> 00:14:14.799
Nothing. We have nothing. We have only support
00:14:14.799 --> 00:14:22.720
of all the family. We don't want to ask my mother,
00:14:22.820 --> 00:14:25.759
my mother -in -law to give me some money or whatever
00:14:25.759 --> 00:14:29.860
for my sports. It's very hard. And when we take
00:14:29.860 --> 00:14:35.200
the decision to give hold for climbing, to use
00:14:35.200 --> 00:14:40.559
climbing for... our personal goal, we need to
00:14:40.559 --> 00:14:44.960
find a solution to be strong. And we know when
00:14:44.960 --> 00:14:47.779
we start, we start in a small city, in my region,
00:14:47.899 --> 00:14:50.279
a small city. We have nothing, a small wall.
00:14:51.419 --> 00:14:55.879
We can train at this small wall because just
00:14:55.879 --> 00:15:00.220
six meters or seven meters high, only jug, a
00:15:00.220 --> 00:15:05.340
vertical wall. And we reflect about what we need
00:15:05.340 --> 00:15:08.120
to be strong. For now, we need a good level,
00:15:08.259 --> 00:15:11.620
okay? We start training with what we have. We
00:15:11.620 --> 00:15:15.779
have only one hang bob and one pull -up, and
00:15:15.779 --> 00:15:20.200
just that. Yeah. And it's for that. But I knew
00:15:20.200 --> 00:15:23.500
we are very strong with harm because we have
00:15:23.500 --> 00:15:25.360
just that at the beginning, and we pull up, pull
00:15:25.360 --> 00:15:29.720
up, pull up, pull up for the guard. And when,
00:15:29.860 --> 00:15:32.519
yeah, okay, we move directly, we know, okay,
00:15:32.580 --> 00:15:35.720
we need to move. We need to move. We need to
00:15:35.720 --> 00:15:39.480
move from the level, from other gyms, to see
00:15:39.480 --> 00:15:45.740
how we train in climbing, because we don't know.
00:15:46.580 --> 00:15:49.899
We don't have trainers, we don't have experiments,
00:15:50.179 --> 00:15:53.799
we have nothing. We don't know what's the possibility.
00:15:54.720 --> 00:15:59.080
And we move. And me, for example, when I have
00:15:59.080 --> 00:16:05.409
16 years, I move to another city. in another
00:16:05.409 --> 00:16:09.070
city with my brother. And it's Clermont -Ferrand.
00:16:09.190 --> 00:16:10.990
It's the first city we moved. Clermont -Ferrand
00:16:10.990 --> 00:16:13.889
in France, it's the center of France. And why
00:16:13.889 --> 00:16:18.250
we moved here? Because we know one guy of the
00:16:18.250 --> 00:16:23.710
French team trained in this gym. And we said,
00:16:23.730 --> 00:16:28.730
okay, we need to go for a see how this guy trained
00:16:28.730 --> 00:16:33.269
and just for a see. And he trained, oh, he trained
00:16:33.269 --> 00:16:36.679
like that. we repeat the same. We repeat the
00:16:36.679 --> 00:16:40.980
same. And we move in Clermont -Ferrand, and after
00:16:40.980 --> 00:16:45.659
we move in Grenoble, we move in Nancy. And it's
00:16:45.659 --> 00:16:49.279
for the sports, it's for fun money, and with
00:16:49.279 --> 00:16:55.299
the life. It's like all together. And yeah, and
00:16:55.299 --> 00:16:59.740
after, when the level goes up, and we are not
00:16:59.740 --> 00:17:06.869
so close to come in the French team. Now we know,
00:17:07.109 --> 00:17:10.430
we check all the athletes, know you have a lot
00:17:10.430 --> 00:17:13.650
of material, you have easy life, you can train
00:17:13.650 --> 00:17:15.930
in the same place all the day, you don't walk,
00:17:16.069 --> 00:17:22.809
you don't go to school. We know directly, Bas
00:17:22.809 --> 00:17:28.650
and me, it can be, I think, yeah, directly we
00:17:28.650 --> 00:17:32.430
say, maybe it's very hard to have that. We need
00:17:32.430 --> 00:17:35.400
to reflect about, okay. Oh, we can found a little
00:17:35.400 --> 00:17:40.740
bit money or material. Because Basa and me, okay,
00:17:40.839 --> 00:17:43.900
we are just a climber. We don't have an image.
00:17:43.980 --> 00:17:47.680
We don't have good results. We are just a climber,
00:17:47.799 --> 00:17:52.160
a human, want a good life. Okay, we say, okay.
00:17:52.880 --> 00:17:55.099
Oh, for sure, we need to train. We need to have
00:17:55.099 --> 00:17:57.680
a good result. That's it for us. That's it's
00:17:57.680 --> 00:17:59.980
hard because you are just one first place, one
00:17:59.980 --> 00:18:09.079
second place. At the beginning of social media,
00:18:09.339 --> 00:18:14.900
with Facebook, all people have Facebook for friends.
00:18:15.079 --> 00:18:18.259
You try to have more friends and maybe 500 friends.
00:18:18.940 --> 00:18:24.940
And after that, you can build a page on Facebook,
00:18:25.099 --> 00:18:30.380
have some different friends. Maximum 5 ,000 people
00:18:30.380 --> 00:18:35.369
can follow you. and I just totally just for pleasure
00:18:35.369 --> 00:18:40.210
I use Facebook like all the people and Instagram
00:18:40.210 --> 00:18:46.890
is coming and I saw something like hmm maybe
00:18:46.890 --> 00:18:51.990
we can use because in France no no no I think
00:18:51.990 --> 00:18:56.130
just one glamour use some social media for put
00:18:56.130 --> 00:18:58.910
video or photo of the sport just just for pleasure
00:18:58.910 --> 00:19:03.569
and and me I I reflect about how maybe we can
00:19:03.569 --> 00:19:06.109
build something. We can build something on social
00:19:06.109 --> 00:19:12.750
media. I don't know why. Just we can create nice
00:19:12.750 --> 00:19:16.630
movements, nice big jumps. It's the beginning.
00:19:16.730 --> 00:19:18.930
We don't show a lot of videos of some athletes
00:19:18.930 --> 00:19:22.890
jump and play with their arm, no foot or whatever
00:19:22.890 --> 00:19:29.329
like that. And we... I start like, okay, I'll
00:19:29.329 --> 00:19:31.529
go just... All the day, all the today, I create
00:19:31.529 --> 00:19:36.869
a video, I put a video of just that. And directly
00:19:36.869 --> 00:19:41.569
with my brother, say, the social media, we have
00:19:41.569 --> 00:19:46.250
more people follow us. Just we try to stay true.
00:19:46.829 --> 00:19:50.789
It's just for, it's for funny, because I like
00:19:50.789 --> 00:19:56.029
that. Just maybe, maybe, in the future, I can
00:19:56.029 --> 00:20:01.929
use that. I'll start one year, two year. And
00:20:01.929 --> 00:20:07.910
I saw one brand want to give me nothing, just
00:20:07.910 --> 00:20:09.829
one tooth. I don't know. I don't remember what
00:20:09.829 --> 00:20:13.630
is it. Give me maybe a shock bag. Just take a
00:20:13.630 --> 00:20:16.109
shock bag. I want nothing. Just take it because
00:20:16.109 --> 00:20:22.650
you have a good image. Okay. Thank you. And after
00:20:22.650 --> 00:20:25.789
that, she said, oh, maybe we can have some material,
00:20:25.829 --> 00:20:29.369
a little bit. We don't have money. And if we
00:20:29.369 --> 00:20:34.119
have, one or two shoes free, shulks free, some
00:20:34.119 --> 00:20:36.859
material in climbing free. It's okay. It's better
00:20:36.859 --> 00:20:43.299
for us. And we start slowly like that. We found
00:20:43.299 --> 00:20:50.319
some good partners. And this partner, the first
00:20:50.319 --> 00:20:53.960
partner we have, don't follow us because we have
00:20:53.960 --> 00:20:57.140
a good level. Don't follow us because we have
00:20:57.140 --> 00:21:04.289
a big community. Because he, you know, maybe,
00:21:04.630 --> 00:21:08.190
I don't know for why, just he gives us like for
00:21:08.190 --> 00:21:11.089
free because maybe we are just good guy, good
00:21:11.089 --> 00:21:14.910
guy, I don't know. He gives us material, yeah,
00:21:14.950 --> 00:21:17.910
just not a lot, not a lot. And I remember the
00:21:17.910 --> 00:21:22.309
first one start to give us some material is snap
00:21:22.309 --> 00:21:25.009
climbing. And snap climbing walk with my dog.
00:21:26.380 --> 00:21:29.539
Long time ago, it was the same. The cash pad
00:21:29.539 --> 00:21:33.079
are at the same place. We have some story together.
00:21:35.140 --> 00:21:40.420
And it's Patrick from Stapp. Now it's Sarcos
00:21:40.420 --> 00:21:47.539
by Stapp, and it's different. Just Patrick gives
00:21:47.539 --> 00:21:50.279
some material to my brother. My brother has a
00:21:50.279 --> 00:21:56.710
better level to me. He's older. Yeah. He gave
00:21:56.710 --> 00:21:58.769
more material for my brother. My brother gave
00:21:58.769 --> 00:22:03.609
me a little bit more material. And when we start
00:22:03.609 --> 00:22:06.769
like that, just with the shoulder bag, a little
00:22:06.769 --> 00:22:09.509
bit short, two crash pads. I have the same crash
00:22:09.509 --> 00:22:14.289
pad since 20 years. Really? Wow. The same, the
00:22:14.289 --> 00:22:19.470
same. He gave us the first crash pad. And slowly,
00:22:19.670 --> 00:22:25.599
someone gave some material. And now... One time,
00:22:25.599 --> 00:22:29.319
I listened a little bit to all the people, and
00:22:29.319 --> 00:22:33.640
he talked about LeframoM, LeframoM, like a brand,
00:22:33.779 --> 00:22:36.019
like LeframoM, so you know, yeah, not a brand.
00:22:36.380 --> 00:22:41.359
I was just a poser. I just created a social media
00:22:41.359 --> 00:22:44.720
with my poser and me because we have the same
00:22:44.720 --> 00:22:52.019
sports, we have the same goal, and why we...
00:22:52.349 --> 00:22:54.890
We put time, why do I suddenly need to put time
00:22:54.890 --> 00:22:57.730
and me put time separately? No, you put all together,
00:22:57.869 --> 00:23:00.069
it's more easy. It's more easy. And all people
00:23:00.069 --> 00:23:02.369
talk about brand, brand, brand, brand. Okay.
00:23:03.309 --> 00:23:05.950
Just for me, it's just not a brand, it's just
00:23:05.950 --> 00:23:09.329
brother. It's just my brother and brother account.
00:23:09.970 --> 00:23:12.690
And we continue like that. And I post a video,
00:23:12.869 --> 00:23:15.789
video, video, video, video, video, video. Maybe
00:23:15.789 --> 00:23:18.750
I post maybe 3 ,000 videos on Instagram. Yeah,
00:23:18.769 --> 00:23:22.579
it's a lot. Yeah. It's a lot. For my more than
00:23:22.579 --> 00:23:27.559
200 ,000 followers, I have 3 ,000 videos. Yeah.
00:23:27.660 --> 00:23:31.599
Oh, it's a joke. Yeah, it's a joke. I do that.
00:23:32.559 --> 00:23:36.220
I don't create all the videos just for something.
00:23:37.339 --> 00:23:42.480
I create for show my sports, for show what I
00:23:42.480 --> 00:23:46.200
do. And I train a lot. And if I have some material,
00:23:46.319 --> 00:23:48.539
it's perfect. I don't need to put money for that.
00:23:49.859 --> 00:23:54.500
And then slowly, yeah, I go like that. And just
00:23:54.500 --> 00:24:01.119
that's, it's one time you have a limit because
00:24:01.119 --> 00:24:02.940
you can have a good image, you can have material,
00:24:02.980 --> 00:24:05.359
just now if you want a good level, you need money.
00:24:05.700 --> 00:24:09.299
Yeah. You need money because you need to pay
00:24:09.299 --> 00:24:12.200
your food, you need to pay your travel. Yeah,
00:24:12.200 --> 00:24:14.180
it's a lot. It's very expensive. We have the
00:24:14.180 --> 00:24:17.440
chance in France, when you are in French team,
00:24:18.039 --> 00:24:21.319
The foundation pays all. The travel, food, when
00:24:21.319 --> 00:24:23.680
you travel for the camp, that's it. It's very
00:24:23.680 --> 00:24:26.640
easy. But getting there is the hard part, yeah.
00:24:26.759 --> 00:24:31.079
Yeah, yeah. And yeah, we need to form that. And
00:24:31.079 --> 00:24:34.359
now we know it's like, for our money, we need
00:24:34.359 --> 00:24:40.420
results. And it's a mix of results and image.
00:24:40.680 --> 00:24:45.640
And if you have both, you can have some money
00:24:45.640 --> 00:24:49.470
for the... Present life, okay. Like present,
00:24:49.569 --> 00:24:58.789
you can live just in the present. You can't live
00:24:58.789 --> 00:25:00.990
like, okay, I have money for the present and
00:25:00.990 --> 00:25:05.309
the future. Okay, yeah. It's only enough for
00:25:05.309 --> 00:25:08.430
the present. Exactly. Just for us, we don't want
00:25:08.430 --> 00:25:12.730
that. Beside me, we don't want that because climbing
00:25:12.730 --> 00:25:17.750
is just a step for us. We use climbing for something.
00:25:18.650 --> 00:25:24.089
And we put all the motivation, all the power,
00:25:24.329 --> 00:25:26.509
all the focus on climbing for something. It's
00:25:26.509 --> 00:25:28.769
not just because climbing is cool, because it's
00:25:28.769 --> 00:25:31.990
a sport, because we like that. No, it's because
00:25:31.990 --> 00:25:38.549
we need something with that. And with my brother,
00:25:38.630 --> 00:25:45.130
we say, okay, for our goal, what do we need?
00:25:45.680 --> 00:25:48.460
Okay, maybe after the career, we need a climbing
00:25:48.460 --> 00:25:51.200
gym. We need to work for our climbing gym. After
00:25:51.200 --> 00:25:53.319
that climbing, maybe we open a climbing gym.
00:25:53.940 --> 00:25:56.259
We need to open a climbing gym. And if we have
00:25:56.259 --> 00:26:00.259
a business, maybe we can build the future life.
00:26:01.759 --> 00:26:07.460
Okay, and we have a certain money for that? No.
00:26:08.279 --> 00:26:12.119
Okay, we need to work. And all the career of
00:26:12.119 --> 00:26:15.630
my brother and me, We train and work all the
00:26:15.630 --> 00:26:20.529
time. Yeah. My brother works for some gym. Me,
00:26:20.609 --> 00:26:25.069
I work as a teacher and a setter. I create all
00:26:25.069 --> 00:26:30.309
the videos on social media. Oh, yeah? I develop
00:26:30.309 --> 00:26:36.849
les frappes à rem. And, yeah, just we work all
00:26:36.849 --> 00:26:40.849
the career. For example, story in Olympics, all
00:26:40.849 --> 00:26:44.359
the coaching Olympics are. I'm not okay with
00:26:44.359 --> 00:26:48.880
us because we work all the day. We go three weeks
00:26:48.880 --> 00:26:52.240
before Olympics in Tokyo. We are in a small place
00:26:52.240 --> 00:26:57.759
in Tokyo. It's COVID. We stay in the same place.
00:26:58.299 --> 00:27:01.619
We go out, hotel, go out for training, just like
00:27:01.619 --> 00:27:04.640
that. We go out for training with our brother.
00:27:05.099 --> 00:27:07.660
We come back at the hotel. We work all the day,
00:27:07.680 --> 00:27:10.940
all the night. Computer, two pieces, na -na -na,
00:27:10.940 --> 00:27:13.670
na -na -na. And all the coaches say, no, no,
00:27:13.690 --> 00:27:16.869
don't take a break. Put your brain here. You
00:27:16.869 --> 00:27:21.170
have a big camp. No, no, because the camp, it's
00:27:21.170 --> 00:27:25.109
a, yes, it's a final stage. Just for now, we
00:27:25.109 --> 00:27:30.309
have a, we have a big life. We need to build
00:27:30.309 --> 00:27:32.690
a big life after that. And we need to work, work
00:27:32.690 --> 00:27:35.630
all the day. And is that all the courage? Work,
00:27:35.670 --> 00:27:39.910
work, work, work. And, and yeah, and I think.
00:27:41.789 --> 00:27:51.490
It's hard to have money from climbing. Just like
00:27:51.490 --> 00:27:57.190
all the work in this world, if you want money,
00:27:57.269 --> 00:28:02.130
it's hard. Okay, if you want the money for heat,
00:28:02.369 --> 00:28:06.009
sleep, and take one, two week, three week holiday
00:28:06.009 --> 00:28:08.970
in a year, okay. A lot of people can do that.
00:28:09.170 --> 00:28:12.759
Yeah. If you want more, You need to walk. Do
00:28:12.759 --> 00:28:15.779
you regret choosing climbing since you aren't
00:28:15.779 --> 00:28:20.200
able to make a lot of money from it? Not regret
00:28:20.200 --> 00:28:26.140
because I breathe a crazy life. It's a lot of
00:28:26.140 --> 00:28:31.079
work to do what I have now and what I can have
00:28:31.079 --> 00:28:38.319
for the future. I don't have regrets. Just if
00:28:38.319 --> 00:28:44.579
the world come back 20 years or 25 years ago,
00:28:44.700 --> 00:28:49.599
I choose other way. Yeah. Other way for sure.
00:28:49.779 --> 00:28:53.839
Yeah. Maybe I continue school. I don't need to
00:28:53.839 --> 00:29:02.660
wait my 34 years for whatever, for my first step
00:29:02.660 --> 00:29:09.660
in my life or build my goal. And yeah, I choose
00:29:09.660 --> 00:29:13.259
other way. For example, if I need to choose a
00:29:13.259 --> 00:29:16.220
sport, because school, I'm young. And I choose,
00:29:16.299 --> 00:29:20.059
I say, for me, I can be good in school. And I
00:29:20.059 --> 00:29:23.259
say, okay, it's not good. And maybe if I can
00:29:23.259 --> 00:29:27.940
come back, I choose the same decision. Just maybe
00:29:27.940 --> 00:29:33.700
the sports. If I know, I play football. Because
00:29:33.700 --> 00:29:36.579
football, maybe you don't need to be professional
00:29:36.579 --> 00:29:42.299
for. have money. Yeah, yeah. You don't need to
00:29:42.299 --> 00:29:46.579
be professional. You are just a good team. You
00:29:46.579 --> 00:29:49.200
have some results. You can have 2 ,000 euros
00:29:49.200 --> 00:29:53.539
per month just for training two days in a week.
00:29:53.819 --> 00:29:56.960
You think so? In France. Really? Two, three days
00:29:56.960 --> 00:29:59.440
in a week. Football, French football is like
00:29:59.440 --> 00:30:05.319
here. And two days in a week, one... One camp
00:30:05.319 --> 00:30:08.619
all the Saturday, one match all the Saturday,
00:30:08.859 --> 00:30:11.920
two thousands, if you have a good level. Just
00:30:11.920 --> 00:30:16.180
a small kick, small kick. Just for me, I choose
00:30:16.180 --> 00:30:19.599
all the way. Like maybe tennis. Yeah. Because
00:30:19.599 --> 00:30:24.519
I know I can be strong in all sports. I can give
00:30:24.519 --> 00:30:28.720
what I give for my sports, for my goal, I give
00:30:28.720 --> 00:30:35.099
all my life. I give all my time. I put my family
00:30:35.099 --> 00:30:39.880
back, at left, wife, and I go here alone. I put
00:30:39.880 --> 00:30:43.039
my friend here, go alone. Just like give all
00:30:43.039 --> 00:30:49.140
for the goal. And I know if I give that for other
00:30:49.140 --> 00:30:53.059
sports, for school, it's more easy. It's going
00:30:53.059 --> 00:30:54.980
to be more easy. Did you try any of these other
00:30:54.980 --> 00:30:58.420
sports? Before climbing. Yeah. Before climbing.
00:30:59.440 --> 00:31:04.380
Before climbing and... There's some difference
00:31:04.380 --> 00:31:08.319
for just all the time. We are not, we don't have
00:31:08.319 --> 00:31:11.579
a good welcome with my brother. You come in a
00:31:11.579 --> 00:31:17.420
sport like athletics or we try athletics, theoretically
00:31:17.420 --> 00:31:22.619
we want to, I want to jump on, I don't know that
00:31:22.619 --> 00:31:25.180
in English, the sport when you run and you jump.
00:31:25.480 --> 00:31:28.160
Oh, okay. The long jump? Yeah, long jump. Yeah,
00:31:28.220 --> 00:31:31.900
just that. I won't do that. And I come for a
00:31:31.900 --> 00:31:34.039
try for the first time. Say, I won't do that.
00:31:34.579 --> 00:31:38.200
Say, okay, go run five kilometers. I don't want
00:31:38.200 --> 00:31:42.940
to run. Say, no, you need to go. Okay. And after,
00:31:43.140 --> 00:31:47.640
I won't jump. No, you need to do whole. Because
00:31:47.640 --> 00:31:51.059
you are young. Say, okay, I don't want that.
00:31:51.599 --> 00:31:56.779
And after I tried gymnastic for two years, the
00:31:56.779 --> 00:32:02.349
same. The same, the same. I'm not... Yeah, I'm
00:32:02.349 --> 00:32:06.230
not really... I can do what I want. I say, okay,
00:32:06.369 --> 00:32:09.829
stop. And, you know, it's a sport like that.
00:32:10.950 --> 00:32:14.349
You're not... It's a sport you... Gymnastics,
00:32:14.450 --> 00:32:18.130
you're alone. Betis, you're alone. Yeah, when
00:32:18.130 --> 00:32:21.589
you train, you're with a group. Just really,
00:32:21.690 --> 00:32:25.869
you're alone all the time. And team... Sport
00:32:25.869 --> 00:32:28.190
with team, like football, handball, or whatever
00:32:28.190 --> 00:32:31.849
like that, Okay, so Tim just woke up in a tin
00:32:31.849 --> 00:32:35.869
in my city. It's very hard. And that's because
00:32:35.869 --> 00:32:40.009
I come from a small region in France. My first
00:32:40.009 --> 00:32:42.210
five years in this region when I was a child,
00:32:42.329 --> 00:32:47.170
we are only in this city, only one black family.
00:32:47.950 --> 00:32:53.630
It's five families. And the mentality, it's a
00:32:53.630 --> 00:32:56.049
little bit hard with the whole people. All people,
00:32:56.269 --> 00:33:00.319
you know, in my city. A lot of years ago, it's
00:33:00.319 --> 00:33:03.680
a German city. It's a German city. You have some
00:33:03.680 --> 00:33:06.660
not good mentality. A lot of people don't have
00:33:06.660 --> 00:33:13.180
culture. Germany is not that now. It's finished
00:33:13.180 --> 00:33:18.799
a long time ago. Just the mentality of old people
00:33:18.799 --> 00:33:22.380
is not about racism. It's about... You don't
00:33:22.380 --> 00:33:26.039
have culture. Only that. You don't... a lot of
00:33:26.039 --> 00:33:28.400
people, it's like, okay, black men are people,
00:33:28.680 --> 00:33:33.779
he's not a good person, he's not a good person,
00:33:33.859 --> 00:33:36.140
just you don't know because you don't live with
00:33:36.140 --> 00:33:40.299
people like that. And, you know, all my life,
00:33:40.319 --> 00:33:42.640
I don't have, I don't find a good place and for
00:33:42.640 --> 00:33:46.640
that, when I put, when I go try climbing, I say,
00:33:46.700 --> 00:33:49.440
wow, wow. The community was good. Yeah, it's
00:33:49.440 --> 00:33:52.779
a community and all is welcome. It's like, my
00:33:52.779 --> 00:33:56.789
daughter can come. Sure, I had it last night.
00:33:57.869 --> 00:34:03.109
You can come, you can stay you, and there's that.
00:34:03.589 --> 00:34:07.190
For that, I try different sports, and when I
00:34:07.190 --> 00:34:09.869
test climbing, it's not about climbing, it's
00:34:09.869 --> 00:34:15.849
just about all. No one looked at me, just all
00:34:15.849 --> 00:34:17.710
called me, like, okay, come play football with
00:34:17.710 --> 00:34:19.869
me, because my first four years in climbing,
00:34:22.199 --> 00:34:25.360
If I go climbing for three hours, I climb only
00:34:25.360 --> 00:34:29.219
one hour. One hour is football. One hour is climbing.
00:34:29.340 --> 00:34:32.980
One hour is football. It's like that. I'm glad
00:34:32.980 --> 00:34:36.820
you found a good community in it. Yeah. So let's
00:34:36.820 --> 00:34:39.599
get a little bit into your time competing on
00:34:39.599 --> 00:34:42.920
the World Cup circuit with IFSC slash world climbing
00:34:42.920 --> 00:34:46.460
now. The first one, I'll kick it off with an
00:34:46.460 --> 00:34:48.480
audience question. They want to know, will you
00:34:48.480 --> 00:34:52.050
ever compete again on the IFSC circuit? compete
00:34:52.050 --> 00:34:56.329
again. No, no, no. For my brother, it's finish.
00:34:56.710 --> 00:35:00.929
I have a goal in my life and climbing is a step.
00:35:01.909 --> 00:35:04.730
My first step is to be the best in climbing one
00:35:04.730 --> 00:35:07.949
time in my life for my brother too. And directly
00:35:07.949 --> 00:35:11.489
when I am the best, when I win the world championships,
00:35:11.789 --> 00:35:17.480
say, I have my first step. For sure, sometimes
00:35:17.480 --> 00:35:20.039
you wait. It's like, okay, you have a good level.
00:35:20.139 --> 00:35:24.239
You can continue. I have that in my head. And
00:35:24.239 --> 00:35:28.400
the last question is for what? I don't have a
00:35:28.400 --> 00:35:31.280
response. I don't have a response for what? For
00:35:31.280 --> 00:35:34.980
pleasure? No. It's not a pleasure to go to the
00:35:34.980 --> 00:35:38.860
comp. Yeah, stressful. So stressed. And if you
00:35:38.860 --> 00:35:42.300
win, maybe you have a pleasure. If your level
00:35:42.300 --> 00:35:45.099
is like 100 % at this comp, okay, maybe it's
00:35:45.099 --> 00:35:48.099
a pleasure. If you have a mistake, it's not a
00:35:48.099 --> 00:35:51.280
pleasure, and you have a lot of mistakes. If
00:35:51.280 --> 00:35:54.420
your level is not at 100%, it's very hard to
00:35:54.420 --> 00:35:57.260
be at 100%. Maybe one time in your life, you
00:35:57.260 --> 00:36:02.739
can maybe hide 99%, something like that. Or maybe
00:36:02.739 --> 00:36:05.960
120 % sometimes, one time in your life. It's
00:36:05.960 --> 00:36:11.619
like, I died. And for me, yes. My first step,
00:36:11.699 --> 00:36:15.300
it's okay. I won that. Now I can go in my second
00:36:15.300 --> 00:36:18.409
step. And for my brother too, it's finished because
00:36:18.409 --> 00:36:21.489
maybe my brother, after Olympics in Tokyo, he
00:36:21.489 --> 00:36:25.889
can stop. Because he's been two times World Cup
00:36:25.889 --> 00:36:30.250
champion in speed. He has a lot of good results.
00:36:30.730 --> 00:36:33.349
For him, it's okay. I mean, the Olympics is a
00:36:33.349 --> 00:36:36.750
great goal. Exactly. And after that, why continue?
00:36:37.070 --> 00:36:41.309
Because I don't have my goal. And after World
00:36:41.309 --> 00:36:44.949
Championships, why I continue? Because Basa continue.
00:36:45.480 --> 00:36:49.920
For 24, I need to continue with it. That's for
00:36:49.920 --> 00:36:56.579
sure. After 24, stop. Did you feel relieved that
00:36:56.579 --> 00:36:58.539
you didn't have to compete anymore? Was it like,
00:36:58.579 --> 00:37:02.900
oh, finally I can stop? Or was there like bittersweet
00:37:02.900 --> 00:37:06.920
feelings about stopping? Nah, you know, I remember
00:37:06.920 --> 00:37:11.280
after I finished my last bullet and final in
00:37:11.280 --> 00:37:14.539
World Championships. I go at the pace with all
00:37:14.539 --> 00:37:18.280
the athletes. You know, your chair, you can sit,
00:37:18.340 --> 00:37:20.440
if you are the first player, you sit on the middle.
00:37:20.840 --> 00:37:25.579
I go on the ground like that. And just it's like,
00:37:25.719 --> 00:37:30.719
I'm free. I'm free. Yeah. Like that, it's like,
00:37:30.940 --> 00:37:35.159
I can put this part of my life just here and
00:37:35.159 --> 00:37:41.199
I'm free for that. Yeah. And I, after that, wow,
00:37:41.380 --> 00:37:45.920
it's, It's a big moment. I want to give this
00:37:45.920 --> 00:37:48.739
moment for, I want to explain this moment for
00:37:48.739 --> 00:37:52.460
a lot of people about, okay, found your goal.
00:37:53.139 --> 00:37:57.639
Found that and your goal is here on your heart.
00:37:58.139 --> 00:38:03.360
And found that and follow this way, go, go, go.
00:38:03.659 --> 00:38:07.820
And if you have your goal, this association you
00:38:07.820 --> 00:38:10.960
have, it's like you're just alive, you know.
00:38:12.639 --> 00:38:17.420
It's just the life starts. Oh. Yeah. When you
00:38:17.420 --> 00:38:21.000
are born, you don't know. You are too small.
00:38:21.739 --> 00:38:25.099
You don't remember that. For me, it's like, this
00:38:25.099 --> 00:38:28.599
moment, it's like, okay, I'm born now. Right.
00:38:28.860 --> 00:38:34.559
I'm born. And I'm born with, like, I can build
00:38:34.559 --> 00:38:38.039
a normal life. And also, you've mentioned, like,
00:38:38.059 --> 00:38:41.519
this goal. So the goal was the world championships?
00:38:41.780 --> 00:38:45.239
And then after the goal, it's only a step? Just
00:38:45.239 --> 00:38:50.380
a step. We have a lot of steps in life. And I
00:38:50.380 --> 00:38:54.139
have a goal. I have a goal. It's to be rich.
00:38:54.619 --> 00:38:57.059
Please excuse this brief intermission, but if
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00:39:07.619 --> 00:39:10.039
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helps a great deal as well. Back to the show.
00:39:35.199 --> 00:39:39.719
To be rich, when I'm 16 years old, when I decided
00:39:39.719 --> 00:39:43.860
to give all in climbing, I chose climbing. I
00:39:43.860 --> 00:39:46.480
chose climbing because I just like that. I have
00:39:46.480 --> 00:39:48.719
just school and climbing, and I chose climbing.
00:39:49.000 --> 00:39:51.579
I want to be rich. I want to have one million
00:39:51.579 --> 00:39:59.940
on my account. I want that. Because I saw the
00:39:59.940 --> 00:40:03.139
life of my mother. My mother had a hard life
00:40:03.139 --> 00:40:08.059
for all the children. And I saw my mother fight
00:40:08.059 --> 00:40:13.699
with my real father. That's not a good guy. All
00:40:13.699 --> 00:40:20.119
the life for my brother, my sister. We are six
00:40:20.119 --> 00:40:25.570
children in my family. Fight all the year for
00:40:25.570 --> 00:40:29.949
that, for the children. She has nothing. She
00:40:29.949 --> 00:40:35.909
comes from a hard family in Guyana, south in
00:40:35.909 --> 00:40:40.449
America. She moved to Frankiana, and after she
00:40:40.449 --> 00:40:43.309
moved to France, and after she moved to, yeah,
00:40:43.329 --> 00:40:47.630
she stayed in France. Just my real father, our
00:40:47.630 --> 00:40:51.030
legionnaire, military. My legionnaire, it's a
00:40:51.030 --> 00:40:54.190
part of my career. It's just crazy people. Just
00:40:54.190 --> 00:40:57.909
crazy people. No rules. It's legionnaire. It's
00:40:57.909 --> 00:41:02.610
like crazy. And it's for that my mother moved
00:41:02.610 --> 00:41:05.329
to France. We are now Nîmes in France, South
00:41:05.329 --> 00:41:08.650
Street, France. And my great -grandfather, the
00:41:08.650 --> 00:41:15.409
nationality, it's Cameroon. And yeah, my father
00:41:15.409 --> 00:41:19.070
take all the children in Cameroon, burn the passport.
00:41:21.929 --> 00:41:24.949
just for put problem for my mother. And because
00:41:24.949 --> 00:41:28.130
my mother have nothing. She work only for wash,
00:41:28.190 --> 00:41:31.510
some industry, the ground, just that. She have
00:41:31.510 --> 00:41:36.369
nothing. She fight lot of year for take the children,
00:41:36.849 --> 00:41:40.590
forgive for all the children, a good life, like
00:41:40.590 --> 00:41:45.969
just eat, house, just that. And when I am children,
00:41:46.050 --> 00:41:48.190
because now it's like I have three, four, five,
00:41:48.230 --> 00:41:52.869
six year, seven year. It's not for me. I don't
00:41:52.869 --> 00:41:56.690
see that. It's, you know, you are children. You
00:41:56.690 --> 00:42:00.349
don't see there's a pain and just that. Just
00:42:00.349 --> 00:42:05.710
at eight, nine, ten, I saw my mother all the
00:42:05.710 --> 00:42:10.710
time tired, all the time nervous. I don't understand
00:42:10.710 --> 00:42:15.969
for why. I saw my mother wake up very early to
00:42:15.969 --> 00:42:20.659
go work, maybe for church. to go walk two two
00:42:20.659 --> 00:42:24.280
hour just get in the sea watch something i don't
00:42:24.280 --> 00:42:28.760
know up she come back at house she prepares the
00:42:28.760 --> 00:42:33.460
breakfast before school uh all clothes wake up
00:42:33.460 --> 00:42:35.980
up you go to school she go walk it's that's all
00:42:35.980 --> 00:42:41.000
the day no holidays no pleasure of nothing she
00:42:41.000 --> 00:42:46.780
should break his life uh for the children and
00:42:49.199 --> 00:42:56.239
All my, when I was a teen, when I saw that, I
00:42:56.239 --> 00:42:59.639
go to my bed all the night to pray, I think in
00:42:59.639 --> 00:43:04.639
English. All the night I go like, okay, I hope
00:43:04.639 --> 00:43:07.880
God, please, I hope you can help my mother to
00:43:07.880 --> 00:43:12.940
have more money, to have more time for her. I
00:43:12.940 --> 00:43:16.599
don't want to see my brother cry. Just that,
00:43:16.659 --> 00:43:18.039
all the night, all the night, all the night.
00:43:20.059 --> 00:43:23.019
Give a good life for my mother. We need nothing.
00:43:23.139 --> 00:43:26.659
We have a hole. Just that, just that. And after
00:43:26.659 --> 00:43:30.320
seven years, all the night is that. When I have
00:43:30.320 --> 00:43:38.420
14, 13, 14, I stop. I stop all to wait for God
00:43:38.420 --> 00:43:41.139
to come to help my mother. Just I stop that and
00:43:41.139 --> 00:43:45.920
I say, okay. He can help my mother. I need to
00:43:45.920 --> 00:43:48.559
find a solution. And when I'm 31, it's like,
00:43:48.679 --> 00:43:52.099
it's very easy. It's just my mother don't have
00:43:52.099 --> 00:43:55.699
money. It's how she work a lot. She move all
00:43:55.699 --> 00:43:59.500
the time. With more money, maybe the life is
00:43:59.500 --> 00:44:02.320
more easy. A lot of people can underfund that
00:44:02.320 --> 00:44:08.360
because they don't have maybe a lot of problems.
00:44:08.559 --> 00:44:11.619
A lot of problems or not, in some community,
00:44:11.739 --> 00:44:15.369
money is important. Oh, for sure, yeah. And it's
00:44:15.369 --> 00:44:19.750
very important. And yeah, just that. And after,
00:44:19.949 --> 00:44:24.309
now it's like for that, I decided to try to be
00:44:24.309 --> 00:44:28.510
rich, forgive very fast, maximum of money for
00:44:28.510 --> 00:44:33.809
my mother, build a house, buy a car, and not
00:44:33.809 --> 00:44:35.969
just for my mother, after for my sister, for
00:44:35.969 --> 00:44:38.030
the children of my sister, for all my family.
00:44:38.849 --> 00:44:41.449
For first, my mother, just my mother, need nothing.
00:44:41.570 --> 00:44:44.630
I need nothing for the... When I won't give money
00:44:44.630 --> 00:44:50.949
to my mother, she said, no, she won't. Now, she
00:44:50.949 --> 00:44:54.610
is only proud of us. And that is very sufficient.
00:44:55.010 --> 00:44:57.969
I think the money for my mother is like that,
00:44:58.010 --> 00:45:02.550
just to see, okay, all my children are in a safe
00:45:02.550 --> 00:45:04.809
place. Yeah, to see that you have a good life.
00:45:05.050 --> 00:45:10.010
Yeah. And yeah, that's why I want to be rich,
00:45:10.190 --> 00:45:13.820
to give the opportunity to all my family. Build
00:45:13.820 --> 00:45:20.260
a good life. A life, another life. Yeah. Now
00:45:20.260 --> 00:45:23.280
I see why it was hard for climbing to do that
00:45:23.280 --> 00:45:25.360
for you. But you're making it work. You're making
00:45:25.360 --> 00:45:30.599
it work. Yeah. Yeah. So back to, I guess, the
00:45:30.599 --> 00:45:34.659
step to your goal of winning world champs. Did
00:45:34.659 --> 00:45:36.840
you feel like the boulders suited you best there?
00:45:36.920 --> 00:45:40.300
Or was it one of those 100 % days for you? Or
00:45:40.300 --> 00:45:44.380
what do you think allowed you to get the gold
00:45:44.380 --> 00:45:50.019
there? The World Championships, you know, I worked
00:45:50.019 --> 00:45:53.780
a lot. I trained a lot for a long year. I failed
00:45:53.780 --> 00:45:59.019
a lot. I continued all the year to try to have
00:45:59.019 --> 00:46:08.710
my first day, my first goal. In 23, after around
00:46:08.710 --> 00:46:12.269
10 years in French team. Wow, yeah. Yeah, after
00:46:12.269 --> 00:46:16.510
10 years in French team, if you check my result
00:46:16.510 --> 00:46:19.909
in IFSC on the website, you check my result,
00:46:19.969 --> 00:46:24.050
it's so bad. I have just one year, one better
00:46:24.050 --> 00:46:26.550
result for staying in French team and continue,
00:46:26.670 --> 00:46:29.789
continue, continue, continue. All the time I
00:46:29.789 --> 00:46:32.849
fight for that. Before the World Championships,
00:46:33.130 --> 00:46:41.599
for me, I can't ask my goals. I can't. It's too
00:46:41.599 --> 00:46:49.659
late. I'm tired. It's okay for my second step
00:46:49.659 --> 00:46:54.659
because I work hard. I have a good image. I take
00:46:54.659 --> 00:46:59.719
a lot of experience. I know what I can do. Okay,
00:46:59.760 --> 00:47:03.079
for the next step, it's okay. For the next step
00:47:03.079 --> 00:47:07.340
of my life, it's okay. Just this goal I don't
00:47:07.340 --> 00:47:11.400
have. Just for me, it's maybe the last World
00:47:11.400 --> 00:47:17.380
Championship. Maybe the last. Two months before
00:47:17.380 --> 00:47:21.659
the World Championship, I have an interview with
00:47:21.659 --> 00:47:28.199
a sponsor and just I talk with one athlete, Marie
00:47:28.199 --> 00:47:31.699
Patouille. It's a French athlete, para -athlete
00:47:31.699 --> 00:47:36.230
in cycling, speed cycling. I don't know. I have
00:47:36.230 --> 00:47:40.170
a talk with her. It's a good talk because I talk
00:47:40.170 --> 00:47:44.909
with her about difficulty and about goal. She
00:47:44.909 --> 00:47:49.670
remembers me, the goal, what is the goal. And
00:47:49.670 --> 00:47:51.449
we talk about the goal, the goal, the goal, the
00:47:51.449 --> 00:47:55.130
goal. And for now, I say just, okay, maybe I
00:47:55.130 --> 00:48:01.670
don't have the title and I'm not the best climber
00:48:01.670 --> 00:48:10.280
in the world. I win a lot of experiments for
00:48:10.280 --> 00:48:15.840
my life. That's maybe the last step. If it's
00:48:15.840 --> 00:48:18.139
not, I go like, okay, I don't know what's going
00:48:18.139 --> 00:48:20.420
to happen. I don't know what's going to happen
00:48:20.420 --> 00:48:25.260
at the World Championship. And I go like, I go
00:48:25.260 --> 00:48:29.320
just, I train, I have a good heat, I try to sleep
00:48:29.320 --> 00:48:33.260
good. And I go without, I don't want to raise
00:48:33.260 --> 00:48:37.320
a client, just I go for going to World Championship
00:48:37.320 --> 00:48:42.400
and only that. We have six, seven hours before
00:48:42.400 --> 00:48:45.739
the final and maybe two, four hours before I
00:48:45.739 --> 00:48:49.599
go to isolation. Normally, it comes like that.
00:48:49.880 --> 00:48:53.420
I go to the hotel, I take a shower. I try to
00:48:53.420 --> 00:48:57.579
take a nap, to make a nap. Just for me, it's
00:48:57.579 --> 00:49:03.940
very hard. I try. And after I hit and get hold,
00:49:04.179 --> 00:49:07.760
and I go back and run. And I go to the hotel,
00:49:07.840 --> 00:49:13.760
I take a shower, try to make a nap. One minute,
00:49:13.880 --> 00:49:17.440
two, five. Okay, very clear stuff. My brain is
00:49:17.440 --> 00:49:20.579
like... I don't understand what's happening in
00:49:20.579 --> 00:49:23.260
my head. Like, just, I can't, I can't. And the
00:49:23.260 --> 00:49:25.440
first time in my life, normally, I'm very strict.
00:49:25.800 --> 00:49:28.539
I have a routine, and I follow my routine all
00:49:28.539 --> 00:49:32.389
the time. I'm very, very strict. And now I say,
00:49:32.429 --> 00:49:36.309
okay, I take all my bag, my stuff, I go to the
00:49:36.309 --> 00:49:39.329
place, the exhibition place, I walk up a street
00:49:39.329 --> 00:49:43.349
with some brand, it's a chilly place, I go, talk
00:49:43.349 --> 00:49:46.030
with some brand, sell some material, I walk,
00:49:46.349 --> 00:49:50.130
just I stay here. Like, okay, for two hours,
00:49:50.289 --> 00:49:55.050
I walk outside. That's time to go to the isolation,
00:49:55.230 --> 00:49:59.730
I go to the isolation. I am in isolation at the
00:49:59.730 --> 00:50:04.340
moment, normally, Start for warm -up. I go, I
00:50:04.340 --> 00:50:07.400
put my shoes, I start to warm -up. I'm tired,
00:50:07.679 --> 00:50:11.119
I won't sleep. I won't sleep, I'm tired, it's
00:50:11.119 --> 00:50:14.539
like, wow. I try five minutes, ten minutes to
00:50:14.539 --> 00:50:18.340
warm -up, I stop. Say, okay, I can't warm -up.
00:50:19.000 --> 00:50:22.679
I can't, I can't, I'm so tired. And if I warm
00:50:22.679 --> 00:50:24.699
-up, I don't know what's going to happen, just
00:50:24.699 --> 00:50:27.079
I'm so tired, I can't warm -up. Then I stop,
00:50:27.280 --> 00:50:30.119
I take off my shoes, I put on my bag, I wait.
00:50:31.309 --> 00:50:35.730
I wait. But now it's the beginning and we go
00:50:35.730 --> 00:50:38.750
to read the boulder, to read all the boulder
00:50:38.750 --> 00:50:43.829
for the final. We are ready to the final. I will
00:50:43.829 --> 00:50:47.929
read all the boulder. I understand only the first
00:50:47.929 --> 00:50:51.590
boulder. Yeah. Only the first. Only the first.
00:50:51.969 --> 00:50:56.150
I come back to isolation, the coach of the friendship
00:50:56.150 --> 00:50:59.599
and Nico Januel, my... I started when I started,
00:50:59.760 --> 00:51:02.039
he coached me the first three years in the French
00:51:02.039 --> 00:51:05.900
team. They are here, because now, it's been so
00:51:05.900 --> 00:51:10.980
many years, I coach alone with my brother. I
00:51:10.980 --> 00:51:14.840
talked with him, he said, you understand? What
00:51:14.840 --> 00:51:19.780
about the boy? I said, I understand nothing.
00:51:20.420 --> 00:51:24.780
No idea. Wow. He said, and all the attacks, it's
00:51:24.780 --> 00:51:27.500
like a little bit that. The first is okay. The
00:51:27.500 --> 00:51:30.719
second, the slab, it's just slippery road, like
00:51:30.719 --> 00:51:34.219
360 slab, like bam, bam, bam, bam. Okay, the
00:51:34.219 --> 00:51:39.519
third boulder, it's like the jump, like up, like
00:51:39.519 --> 00:51:43.860
that. Oh, yeah. I saw the video of Meiji, and
00:51:43.860 --> 00:51:47.500
maybe it's like that. Yes, I never try a movement
00:51:47.500 --> 00:51:50.539
like that. I don't understand. And the last,
00:51:50.599 --> 00:51:53.500
it's a plastic hole. Oh, it's new. Yeah. Okay.
00:51:55.650 --> 00:51:59.969
And now just Nico tell me like, okay, it's good
00:51:59.969 --> 00:52:03.909
for you. Why it's good for me? I understand nothing.
00:52:04.090 --> 00:52:06.250
It's not good for me. I understand nothing. I
00:52:06.250 --> 00:52:08.289
say, oh, good for you. It's good for you. You
00:52:08.289 --> 00:52:12.690
have the difference with all the people, the
00:52:12.690 --> 00:52:17.030
young people. You have the experience. Say, no,
00:52:17.150 --> 00:52:19.829
for me, it's like experience, experience. Yes,
00:52:19.829 --> 00:52:24.860
I understand nothing. It's okay. Okay. And now
00:52:24.860 --> 00:52:28.500
it's just, it's not the beginning of the final
00:52:28.500 --> 00:52:31.260
because for me, okay, I have a small break in
00:52:31.260 --> 00:52:34.800
isolation, just my brain, stay in the camp. Like
00:52:34.800 --> 00:52:36.980
when I saw the first bullet to the semi -final
00:52:36.980 --> 00:52:40.300
and the last bullet to the final, my head is
00:52:40.300 --> 00:52:44.280
like the same cock, the same circuit, as we say.
00:52:44.980 --> 00:52:48.260
And just I am the focus on the first bullet.
00:52:48.519 --> 00:52:50.840
You need to do it because the first bullet is
00:52:50.840 --> 00:52:53.639
the holes, it's like basic. Yeah. This one you
00:52:53.639 --> 00:52:57.960
need to do. And I did. And after, my body is
00:52:57.960 --> 00:53:02.239
like just here. And I climb. I have the vision
00:53:02.239 --> 00:53:07.460
of my climb, not the sensation of my climb. I'm
00:53:07.460 --> 00:53:10.880
out of my body. So that's a good thing. Yeah.
00:53:10.880 --> 00:53:13.940
Okay. Yeah, it's good. It's good because I have...
00:53:13.940 --> 00:53:16.280
Yeah. I did the Buddha. I have the first place
00:53:16.280 --> 00:53:22.360
after that. Yes, it's... Yes, it's... Different
00:53:22.360 --> 00:53:26.380
moment because it's so hard to explain what's
00:53:26.380 --> 00:53:30.380
happening at this moment. And so I guess like
00:53:30.380 --> 00:53:33.260
now looking back, we see the no -text holds a
00:53:33.260 --> 00:53:35.820
lot nowadays, but that was like the first time
00:53:35.820 --> 00:53:38.219
that you guys saw no -text in a comp, right?
00:53:38.519 --> 00:53:42.519
Yeah. So did you even train on no -text holds
00:53:42.519 --> 00:53:48.190
before? Same is, you create a coordination with
00:53:48.190 --> 00:53:51.289
no text. Oh, yeah. You have a boulder with no
00:53:51.289 --> 00:53:53.989
text. You don't use it. It's just like that.
00:53:55.769 --> 00:54:04.150
Just okay. And in final, before we made the boulder,
00:54:04.349 --> 00:54:08.329
we found a new hole on the spray wall, on the
00:54:08.329 --> 00:54:11.510
wall for warm -up, a plastic hole. Yeah. So,
00:54:11.590 --> 00:54:15.340
why put that here? why you put that on the isolation?
00:54:16.340 --> 00:54:20.079
And directly, we reflect about, oh, maybe we
00:54:20.079 --> 00:54:24.559
have that. We have that. And we try with coca,
00:54:24.579 --> 00:54:28.239
we use coca, try with coca, we buy lots of things,
00:54:28.440 --> 00:54:33.380
we put, no, water, salt with water, I don't know.
00:54:33.420 --> 00:54:41.199
We try, we try. For me, I think it's my particularity
00:54:41.199 --> 00:54:44.789
in climbing. The first is to have a good tactic.
00:54:45.969 --> 00:54:49.130
I'm not the strongest climber in the world. In
00:54:49.130 --> 00:54:53.170
camp, in outdoor, I have the big title. Just
00:54:53.170 --> 00:55:00.050
about my level is very different. And I'm very
00:55:00.050 --> 00:55:02.730
strict with my life. I have a good tactic. I
00:55:02.730 --> 00:55:06.869
have a routine I can follow. And for that, directly,
00:55:07.130 --> 00:55:10.949
I try to find solutions, up, up, water, na, na,
00:55:11.090 --> 00:55:13.280
na. And just about, okay, I have a good situation.
00:55:14.139 --> 00:55:17.219
It's really like two or three, four, five seconds.
00:55:18.079 --> 00:55:21.579
Like, okay, now maybe it's good. And after, a
00:55:21.579 --> 00:55:25.239
lot of people test all the Japanese. We love
00:55:25.239 --> 00:55:31.099
a lot about the Japanese guys because all try
00:55:31.099 --> 00:55:33.820
the water, half we know, we don't try the shot
00:55:33.820 --> 00:55:38.739
because you have dry skin, you sleep. You know,
00:55:38.860 --> 00:55:41.900
Japan are very like that. we can change the rule
00:55:41.900 --> 00:55:45.739
and he go climb like to put shark oh how tall
00:55:45.739 --> 00:55:49.480
goes oh stop stop you test in isolation with
00:55:49.480 --> 00:55:52.699
water and on the safety you put shark yeah because
00:55:52.699 --> 00:55:55.880
it's like two different he can't like that and
00:55:55.880 --> 00:56:01.559
me yeah maybe me i found just a good moment and
00:56:01.559 --> 00:56:06.699
if you check the video of this boulder when i
00:56:06.699 --> 00:56:12.150
go climbing when i did the movement I touch my
00:56:12.150 --> 00:56:18.630
hand. I have the flow up. And I have the feeling
00:56:18.630 --> 00:56:21.389
I put my hand, say, no, that's a good time. And
00:56:21.389 --> 00:56:24.289
now it's a good time. And now I did the movement.
00:56:24.730 --> 00:56:28.849
Yes. We have that. And my tips, it's very easy
00:56:28.849 --> 00:56:30.730
because sometimes we say, you put something,
00:56:30.909 --> 00:56:34.010
na, na, na, na, na, na. It's just water. And
00:56:34.010 --> 00:56:38.789
I put, I take a little bit liquid shock and water.
00:56:39.759 --> 00:56:43.840
And just I don't mix my liquid chalk. And on
00:56:43.840 --> 00:56:47.199
the liquid chalk, you have chalk, alcohol, and
00:56:47.199 --> 00:56:51.300
resin is like, it's like, resin is like you can
00:56:51.300 --> 00:56:53.679
found on tree. Yeah, yeah. It's like a glue.
00:56:54.059 --> 00:56:58.320
Yeah. Yeah. And just I put that with water and
00:56:58.320 --> 00:57:01.480
a little bit and found the good moment for the
00:57:01.480 --> 00:57:06.219
forego. Okay. Forego and just for me, yeah, for
00:57:06.219 --> 00:57:11.500
this boulder, just I go and I, At the last boulder,
00:57:11.599 --> 00:57:14.179
I know if I have the zone, I am the watcher.
00:57:14.380 --> 00:57:16.619
Okay, so you did know. That was an audience question.
00:57:16.780 --> 00:57:19.739
So you knew ahead of time. If you did that, you
00:57:19.739 --> 00:57:22.280
would win. Yeah, at the last boulder. Before
00:57:22.280 --> 00:57:28.840
my focus, my brain is not on me. When I finish
00:57:28.840 --> 00:57:36.679
my third boulder, my brain comes, the whistle
00:57:36.679 --> 00:57:43.000
comes. I can, my eyes are open. You know, when
00:57:43.000 --> 00:57:46.739
you go in the first boulder, you have two places
00:57:46.739 --> 00:57:48.739
in the relation. One place with other athletes
00:57:48.739 --> 00:57:53.179
and a small place here. It's when the first climber
00:57:53.179 --> 00:57:56.760
goes to the boulder. When he's finished, he goes
00:57:56.760 --> 00:58:00.460
to this place. Because you don't want to come
00:58:00.460 --> 00:58:02.280
here and maybe you can talk with other athletes.
00:58:02.579 --> 00:58:04.739
And up, other athletes like that. And after,
00:58:04.780 --> 00:58:07.179
when the last athletes are finished. All come
00:58:07.179 --> 00:58:10.039
back here. Just here, you have a screen. You
00:58:10.039 --> 00:58:12.760
have a screen. On the second place, you have
00:58:12.760 --> 00:58:15.639
a screen with a score. Oh, I didn't know that.
00:58:15.760 --> 00:58:17.960
Yeah, you have that. You can see the score just
00:58:17.960 --> 00:58:23.219
after you boulder, after you try. After the first
00:58:23.219 --> 00:58:28.719
boulder, I go. I did this boulder. I remember
00:58:28.719 --> 00:58:34.579
only I check me like, good job. I put my house
00:58:34.579 --> 00:58:40.079
on the chair and I check the screen and I saw
00:58:40.079 --> 00:58:42.400
nothing. The screen is just here, big like that.
00:58:43.739 --> 00:58:47.840
I try to see the number, zone, the result. I
00:58:47.840 --> 00:58:50.460
see nothing. Like for five, ten seconds, I try.
00:58:51.199 --> 00:58:53.699
Nothing. My heart is low. My body is not here.
00:58:53.840 --> 00:58:58.199
I can't see the number. It's just here. Okay,
00:58:58.360 --> 00:59:00.440
I stop. Okay, it's not a booger. Second one,
00:59:01.019 --> 00:59:04.940
boom, I did the booger. I come back, I try to
00:59:04.940 --> 00:59:10.739
read the screen, nothing. The third one I did,
00:59:10.860 --> 00:59:14.780
and when I did the roller, when my feet touched
00:59:14.780 --> 00:59:22.820
the mat, now all is gone. And at this moment,
00:59:22.920 --> 00:59:25.559
it's like, I just want more. I talk a little
00:59:25.559 --> 00:59:30.059
bit, just want more. It's maybe my day. Maybe.
00:59:31.000 --> 00:59:35.559
It's maybe my day. I go back to the lesson. I
00:59:35.559 --> 00:59:40.619
don't need to check the screen because I know
00:59:40.619 --> 00:59:44.820
it's maybe my day. All the information comes
00:59:44.820 --> 00:59:48.780
directly in my head. And after the focus of the
00:59:48.780 --> 00:59:51.539
last boulder, just I'm not really focused about
00:59:51.539 --> 00:59:54.780
the results. I'm not focused about, okay, I need
00:59:54.780 --> 00:59:57.400
to did this boulder, this zone, whatever. Just
00:59:57.400 --> 01:00:00.059
I know it's maybe my day. Give your maximum.
01:00:00.860 --> 01:00:05.019
And the first step. It's to have the zone. That's
01:00:05.019 --> 01:00:07.119
the first step. It's not, I have the zone, I
01:00:07.119 --> 01:00:12.059
win. No, it's like, maybe I can win. The first
01:00:12.059 --> 01:00:13.880
step, it's to did the zone, the second, to did
01:00:13.880 --> 01:00:17.099
the boulder. And after I go, I try, I try, I
01:00:17.099 --> 01:00:20.199
try, I have the zone, I continue the boulder,
01:00:20.260 --> 01:00:25.920
I fall, that's the last move. And when you watch
01:00:25.920 --> 01:00:28.719
the video, it's like, okay, Diweki, I've touched
01:00:28.719 --> 01:00:32.099
the ground, like, yeah. For me, it's like, 30
01:00:32.099 --> 01:00:36.000
seconds I touch the mat in my head it's like
01:00:36.000 --> 01:00:41.099
30 seconds like oh I'm the world champion it's
01:00:41.099 --> 01:00:46.820
okay I have my goal wow it's finished wow and
01:00:46.820 --> 01:00:49.199
like yes it's like 2 seconds just in my head
01:00:49.199 --> 01:00:57.179
it's like 30 seconds yeah and and yeah and after
01:00:57.179 --> 01:01:00.869
that you know I'm free yeah What if you had never
01:01:00.869 --> 01:01:02.989
reached that goal? If I don't have the title,
01:01:03.230 --> 01:01:06.309
it's okay. I have a lot of experience. I imagine
01:01:06.309 --> 01:01:13.190
it's okay. I know I can put a lot of energy for
01:01:13.190 --> 01:01:16.050
one goal. I can put a lot of energy on work.
01:01:16.409 --> 01:01:18.929
The last four years before World Champions, it's
01:01:18.929 --> 01:01:22.349
the first year I can put money in my bank, save
01:01:22.349 --> 01:01:25.329
money. It's the first time after a lot of time.
01:01:25.489 --> 01:01:28.489
Wow, yeah. Just when I take my place in the Olympics.
01:01:29.239 --> 01:01:33.639
I can save money. Before, I can't. Wow, that
01:01:33.639 --> 01:01:39.380
was a long time. Exactly. For me, it's like,
01:01:39.500 --> 01:01:41.480
okay, I have the money for my first business.
01:01:44.239 --> 01:01:47.559
I have the experience. I know I can do all in
01:01:47.559 --> 01:01:51.739
my life. I can do all in my life. It's just that.
01:01:52.000 --> 01:01:58.300
For all the people, like, oh, you work hard.
01:01:59.530 --> 01:02:03.909
People like you can do that. Yep. Let's talk
01:02:03.909 --> 01:02:07.750
about pull -ups. Ha ha, pull -ups. Yeah. I watched
01:02:07.750 --> 01:02:11.650
your video with Jonathan Sin. You guys were doing
01:02:11.650 --> 01:02:14.130
climbing for sure, but then you were also doing
01:02:14.130 --> 01:02:17.449
a lot of pull -ups. Is that seriously what your
01:02:17.449 --> 01:02:19.949
training looks like? That many pull -ups? Yeah,
01:02:19.989 --> 01:02:25.170
it's the base of the climb. In climbing and lots
01:02:25.170 --> 01:02:28.769
of work, you don't need to forget where you're
01:02:28.769 --> 01:02:36.719
from. And oh, you will you. And that's the base
01:02:36.719 --> 01:02:41.219
and you don't need to forget that. And for me
01:02:41.219 --> 01:02:46.579
and for my brother and me, we need to pull up
01:02:46.579 --> 01:02:50.460
a lot of time. It's like if you have the good
01:02:50.460 --> 01:02:55.199
sensation, if we have the sensation of, okay,
01:02:55.280 --> 01:02:58.920
the body are very light, it's like, okay. we
01:02:58.920 --> 01:03:03.539
can train. And it's a part of motivation too.
01:03:04.699 --> 01:03:08.059
It's before they come, I don't. Before when I
01:03:08.059 --> 01:03:10.300
start climbing, I pull up a lot because I have
01:03:10.300 --> 01:03:14.280
only ducks. It's an easy part for training. And
01:03:14.280 --> 01:03:17.219
when you don't know what is training in climbing,
01:03:17.420 --> 01:03:20.340
you just check climbing is that, it's like so,
01:03:20.579 --> 01:03:26.079
you do like that, you pull, okay, you do pull
01:03:26.079 --> 01:03:32.929
-ups. Okay? And it's just that. And now, for
01:03:32.929 --> 01:03:38.230
sure, with the high level, you need to try and
01:03:38.230 --> 01:03:43.849
hold the part of gliding. Just we don't forget
01:03:43.849 --> 01:03:49.210
what we like. And oh, we have this level. And
01:03:49.210 --> 01:03:52.190
we have this level because our physical parts
01:03:52.190 --> 01:03:55.789
are very high. My physical parts are very high
01:03:55.789 --> 01:04:02.929
before my technical part in my body. And before
01:04:02.929 --> 01:04:04.989
I come in French team, my level, my physical
01:04:04.989 --> 01:04:09.710
level are very high, like high level. Just my
01:04:09.710 --> 01:04:14.469
technical is like very bad, like regional level.
01:04:15.469 --> 01:04:19.010
You know, it's bad. And just I need, just I have
01:04:19.010 --> 01:04:21.409
a little bit of that and directly I have a good
01:04:21.409 --> 01:04:26.030
level. Yes, pull -ups, it's like my base. It's
01:04:26.030 --> 01:04:31.809
the base, and we don't forget that. So what does
01:04:31.809 --> 01:04:33.809
your training schedule look like? How many pull
01:04:33.809 --> 01:04:39.650
-ups? How much other stuff? Pull -ups, I have
01:04:39.650 --> 01:04:46.130
a routine when I warm up, and I do around 60
01:04:46.130 --> 01:04:50.329
to 100 pull -ups all the warm -up. Wow. You know,
01:04:50.409 --> 01:04:55.130
it's like running. 50 or 80 kilometers per week.
01:04:55.949 --> 01:05:02.210
Run four kilometers in a day, it's nothing. Me,
01:05:02.309 --> 01:05:06.710
100 pull -ups. One time in my life, I do 500
01:05:06.710 --> 01:05:12.150
per day. 100 is like, okay, it's just, it's nothing.
01:05:13.349 --> 01:05:17.530
Now I can warm up directly with one pen. I can
01:05:17.530 --> 01:05:21.389
do like now 20 pull -ups. It's okay. I don't
01:05:21.389 --> 01:05:23.949
have injury. I don't have pain. Just like, okay,
01:05:24.010 --> 01:05:26.389
it's normal movement for me. Like you wake up,
01:05:26.429 --> 01:05:28.630
you can jump. Now you can jump. You don't need
01:05:28.630 --> 01:05:30.389
to warm up for jump because you jump a lot of
01:05:30.389 --> 01:05:33.570
time in your life. And me, the same with the
01:05:33.570 --> 01:05:35.469
pull -ups. I pull -ups a lot of time and now
01:05:35.469 --> 01:05:38.829
it's like normal. And in warm -up, I have a good
01:05:38.829 --> 01:05:41.570
routine and I do it like that. 60 to 100, it
01:05:41.570 --> 01:05:47.570
depends. And in my training, in my week training,
01:05:48.349 --> 01:05:51.510
All the time, I have three times in a week, I
01:05:51.510 --> 01:05:55.010
train my physique, pull -ups, push -ups, dips.
01:05:55.789 --> 01:05:58.989
It's like all the time. All the time. When I
01:05:58.989 --> 01:06:01.409
train for competitions, it will be different
01:06:01.409 --> 01:06:03.849
because you need, for example, two months before
01:06:03.849 --> 01:06:07.510
the camp, you need to have a break, and there's
01:06:07.510 --> 01:06:12.130
that. Just in my normal life, it's like all the
01:06:12.130 --> 01:06:17.349
week, three times in a week. Okay. Yep. And how
01:06:17.349 --> 01:06:19.949
about technique? Since you said that was kind
01:06:19.949 --> 01:06:22.369
of behind, how did you level up the technique?
01:06:22.869 --> 01:06:25.469
How about the level of techniques? Just climbing,
01:06:25.670 --> 01:06:28.489
climbing, climbing, climbing, move a lot, move,
01:06:28.610 --> 01:06:34.070
change gym. Some people have a chance to train
01:06:34.070 --> 01:06:37.409
in place where you found a lot of center, different
01:06:37.409 --> 01:06:40.670
type of city. The gym change a lot of times,
01:06:40.690 --> 01:06:44.829
the boulder, it can stay in the same place. We
01:06:44.829 --> 01:06:49.070
can't follow a gym like that. We can't follow
01:06:49.070 --> 01:06:51.789
a gym like that. And if you don't have that,
01:06:51.889 --> 01:06:55.289
you need to move. Another technique, it's like
01:06:55.289 --> 01:07:00.889
a big book. It's a big book, and when you go
01:07:00.889 --> 01:07:03.650
and compete, you go climbing outdoors, you go
01:07:03.650 --> 01:07:07.550
in the gym, you go climb on the tension board,
01:07:07.769 --> 01:07:12.389
the kilter board, or whatever, you move, you
01:07:12.389 --> 01:07:15.800
do some movement. With your feet, with your arm,
01:07:15.880 --> 01:07:22.199
with both. And that's, if you climb with that
01:07:22.199 --> 01:07:26.340
one, the book fails. You have nothing on the
01:07:26.340 --> 01:07:30.400
books. If you climb with the brain, that's going
01:07:30.400 --> 01:07:33.400
to book. That's going to book. It's like, it's
01:07:33.400 --> 01:07:36.860
like, yes, it's just, you put that whole and,
01:07:36.960 --> 01:07:40.820
and, and after the part of, okay, you need to
01:07:40.820 --> 01:07:46.110
learn some movement, just. The important part
01:07:46.110 --> 01:07:52.809
for competition is to have fast adaptation. And
01:07:52.809 --> 01:07:56.949
for the fast adaptation, form the solution very
01:07:56.949 --> 01:08:03.469
fast, quickly. The book needs to be full. Like,
01:08:03.469 --> 01:08:06.570
okay, oh, there's a problem. Solution. Because
01:08:06.570 --> 01:08:10.889
one time, two, five, ten times, I repeat that,
01:08:11.010 --> 01:08:16.579
and now I can... put on my circuit or my boulder
01:08:16.579 --> 01:08:22.159
in my four or five minutes. And that is the important
01:08:22.159 --> 01:08:26.539
part. It's for that, in my training, I can only
01:08:26.539 --> 01:08:33.180
do what I need for the camp. And I'll give a
01:08:33.180 --> 01:08:35.180
good example. You can see a lot of videos of
01:08:35.180 --> 01:08:39.260
climbers pull -ups or hang with six millimeter
01:08:39.260 --> 01:08:44.630
holes. It's for watts. some competitor climber
01:08:44.630 --> 01:08:47.270
is for what you train that he say to be strong
01:08:47.270 --> 01:08:51.090
and figure do you so hold like six millimeters
01:08:51.090 --> 01:08:56.729
in the comp never no maybe 12 it's a minimum
01:08:56.729 --> 01:09:00.710
if you have 10 it's on the volume it's like yeah
01:09:00.710 --> 01:09:06.630
18 the succession say no 12 is a minimum 14 okay
01:09:06.630 --> 01:09:11.800
just turn on that and Put weight, if you want
01:09:11.800 --> 01:09:14.800
to be strong, just don't go and use a small hold.
01:09:15.520 --> 01:09:20.479
Like hold. And like me, I don't need to pull
01:09:20.479 --> 01:09:23.279
ups a lot. That's what I need for me because
01:09:23.279 --> 01:09:26.880
it's my energy, it's my gas for do hold, for
01:09:26.880 --> 01:09:32.180
accept hold what I don't like. And I don't need
01:09:32.180 --> 01:09:36.819
to pull ups 100 times, 200 times, 500 times all
01:09:36.819 --> 01:09:41.630
the day. Just that's given the motivation for
01:09:41.630 --> 01:09:45.390
all the rest of the training. Okay. Yeah. So
01:09:45.390 --> 01:09:47.210
you wouldn't recommend pull -ups for everyone.
01:09:47.329 --> 01:09:49.210
That's just you need to do the pull -ups for
01:09:49.210 --> 01:09:51.710
your mental health. No, yeah, yeah. I would recommend.
01:09:51.930 --> 01:09:54.970
We pull, huh? We kill in climbing. We pull. Okay,
01:09:55.050 --> 01:09:58.369
we push. We use technique. Just we pull. Just
01:09:58.369 --> 01:10:01.750
if you take the same, take all the athletes,
01:10:01.890 --> 01:10:04.909
maybe you can do pull -ups with 40 kilos. Just
01:10:04.909 --> 01:10:08.210
he can't do pull -ups. He can't do 100 pull -ups
01:10:08.210 --> 01:10:11.390
in 10 minutes. He can't do 30 pull -ups without
01:10:11.390 --> 01:10:18.149
weight. The easy part is to put weight, to repeat
01:10:18.149 --> 01:10:21.529
only one repeat or two, take three, four minutes
01:10:21.529 --> 01:10:26.149
rest, and go back, and that's it. No. No. Normally,
01:10:26.189 --> 01:10:28.789
when you train, after a day, you finish like,
01:10:28.850 --> 01:10:35.289
okay, I need to go sleep. And tired. And if you
01:10:35.289 --> 01:10:41.029
check all the athletes in the world, you have
01:10:41.029 --> 01:10:45.529
the best, best athlete with a lot of... He has
01:10:45.529 --> 01:10:48.890
material, he has money, he has all. Okay, he
01:10:48.890 --> 01:10:51.710
has an easy life. He can train one hour and a
01:10:51.710 --> 01:10:54.329
half in the morning, take a break, two hours
01:10:54.329 --> 01:10:56.710
in the afternoon, take a break, night, two hours,
01:10:56.890 --> 01:10:59.090
because it's very easy. He can go to the physio.
01:11:00.390 --> 01:11:04.649
That's the path some athletes have. More money,
01:11:04.810 --> 01:11:08.529
more results, more people around us. And you
01:11:08.529 --> 01:11:13.430
have all the athletes. All the day, you break
01:11:13.430 --> 01:11:18.149
all the body of the day. You train maximum hour
01:11:18.149 --> 01:11:21.930
of the day. It's just that. And after, you have
01:11:21.930 --> 01:11:27.170
the rest. And that's... It's an important part
01:11:27.170 --> 01:11:30.350
to try to push all the time limits. Of course.
01:11:30.550 --> 01:11:34.619
And before they come, two months, Now it's just
01:11:34.619 --> 01:11:39.880
the time you go more slowly. You try to work
01:11:39.880 --> 01:11:44.840
your body, your muscle, your brain, just before
01:11:44.840 --> 01:11:49.520
pushing it all the time. Okay. Work on technique.
01:11:50.560 --> 01:11:53.800
I think everyone knows the French team is really
01:11:53.800 --> 01:11:57.300
well known for their slab. Is there like a secret
01:11:57.300 --> 01:12:00.739
to French slab or any tricks, tips you have there?
01:12:01.100 --> 01:12:07.659
About that, for me, it's not about French are
01:12:07.659 --> 01:12:13.460
good in slab. It's more like French don't put
01:12:13.460 --> 01:12:18.000
the focus on the physique part in all sports.
01:12:18.300 --> 01:12:23.079
You know, look NBA. The NBA, basketball, look
01:12:23.079 --> 01:12:26.260
the USA team and the French team. I've never
01:12:26.260 --> 01:12:28.470
seen the French team, so I don't know. It's a
01:12:28.470 --> 01:12:31.710
good player. Yes, all is like that. Really? Okay.
01:12:31.970 --> 01:12:38.670
Big, just like that. In a lot of sports, it's
01:12:38.670 --> 01:12:45.609
just that. He puts in first technical, and for
01:12:45.609 --> 01:12:50.130
me, slab is not really technique. It's just on
01:12:50.130 --> 01:12:54.010
head. To repeat and to take risk, I think we
01:12:54.010 --> 01:13:00.310
have the culture. to repeat a lot, to take time
01:13:00.310 --> 01:13:04.149
to repeat a lot, some movement like that, and
01:13:04.149 --> 01:13:09.670
in slab. And it's for that now, a lot of Japan
01:13:09.670 --> 01:13:13.970
are good in slab. Because the culture in Japan
01:13:13.970 --> 01:13:17.510
is like, okay, if you don't do a style, you repeat,
01:13:17.670 --> 01:13:20.050
you repeat, you repeat, four, five, six, seven,
01:13:20.130 --> 01:13:24.069
one day. And now, these populations are good
01:13:24.069 --> 01:13:27.119
in slab. And a lot of climbers in this world
01:13:27.119 --> 01:13:31.319
are good in slabs because they understand you
01:13:31.319 --> 01:13:37.039
need nothing, just time and repeat. And I think
01:13:37.039 --> 01:13:40.300
it's just about that. We repeat a lot. Maybe
01:13:40.300 --> 01:13:46.220
we have an advance in France because a lot of
01:13:46.220 --> 01:13:50.140
setters come from France a long time ago in the
01:13:50.140 --> 01:13:54.729
IPC camp. Jackie Goddard, she stayed in the IFSC
01:13:54.729 --> 01:13:59.550
for a long time. It's the French. It's not the
01:13:59.550 --> 01:14:01.869
French side, it's the side of Jackie Goddard.
01:14:02.510 --> 01:14:05.869
And just Jackie Goddard is a French setter. It's
01:14:05.869 --> 01:14:08.710
for that the French teams are good on volume,
01:14:08.829 --> 01:14:14.729
on slab, because Jackie set a lot of calm. And
01:14:14.729 --> 01:14:18.979
I think... It's a part of that too. We have a
01:14:18.979 --> 01:14:21.739
lot of good setters come from France. Not now.
01:14:21.779 --> 01:14:24.239
Now we have a good setter around the world. Just
01:14:24.239 --> 01:14:28.100
20 years ago, if you take the list of setters,
01:14:28.260 --> 01:14:32.319
a lot of setters come from France. Okay. That
01:14:32.319 --> 01:14:35.300
makes sense. Do you train a lot with the rest
01:14:35.300 --> 01:14:39.939
of the French team or is it very solo? It's yourself.
01:14:40.300 --> 01:14:43.479
Are you and your brother? I watch the French
01:14:43.479 --> 01:14:48.720
team. I share my experience. I listen to all
01:14:48.720 --> 01:14:53.640
the athletes. Yes, I train a lot. I train a lot
01:14:53.640 --> 01:15:02.460
because for me, before Meiji came in the French
01:15:02.460 --> 01:15:05.920
team, before Meiji came in the French team, and
01:15:05.920 --> 01:15:09.140
Meiji is a young guy, he watched me follow and
01:15:09.140 --> 01:15:13.800
all that. Just no one athlete trains a lot. Give
01:15:13.800 --> 01:15:18.069
all for climbing. I only focus for that. And
01:15:18.069 --> 01:15:22.550
like me. And me, I want me, I want just some
01:15:22.550 --> 01:15:25.810
people give the same energy, the same motivation.
01:15:26.449 --> 01:15:34.630
Why bother? And sometimes, some athletes, sometimes,
01:15:35.029 --> 01:15:38.970
sometimes, just I don't train with a manicorm.
01:15:39.149 --> 01:15:43.470
He's a good friend of me. We train a long year,
01:15:43.529 --> 01:15:46.670
a long year we are. like in concurrence together
01:15:46.670 --> 01:15:49.909
we train with us we have the same trainer for
01:15:49.909 --> 01:15:54.649
three years i don't know i don't train with this
01:15:54.649 --> 01:15:58.609
guy because he don't have the same organization
01:15:58.609 --> 01:16:03.649
of me he come in a little bit late he warm up
01:16:03.649 --> 01:16:06.510
30 minutes me i warm up in the base i need to
01:16:06.510 --> 01:16:11.329
take one hour and a half um a lot of time we
01:16:11.329 --> 01:16:14.819
have the phone Oh, Pete, the phone, no, no, no,
01:16:14.819 --> 01:16:19.260
no, no. It's okay. It's worse for him. No problem.
01:16:19.420 --> 01:16:22.520
Just for me, I'm not really happy. It's not good
01:16:22.520 --> 01:16:26.439
for my environment. Okay, I go alone. And all
01:16:26.439 --> 01:16:29.939
the time I train alone for that, for only have
01:16:29.939 --> 01:16:34.319
the focus on what I want. And when I come with
01:16:34.319 --> 01:16:38.220
other people, I use that like emulation. Like,
01:16:38.220 --> 01:16:40.760
okay, it's the best for me. It's a competition.
01:16:42.069 --> 01:16:45.329
And when I climb with other athletes, it's like,
01:16:45.449 --> 01:16:48.729
okay, we share. I don't climb with you out of
01:16:48.729 --> 01:16:51.729
time. So I want to be the best. If I want to
01:16:51.729 --> 01:16:55.250
be the best, I need to beat you. And for that,
01:16:55.449 --> 01:16:57.949
I need to be nervous. I need to absorb stress.
01:16:58.310 --> 01:17:00.350
I need to have a good emulation. And for that,
01:17:00.510 --> 01:17:04.289
if I climb all the day with you, this can be
01:17:04.289 --> 01:17:07.729
a problem when I want a simulation, a good simulation
01:17:07.729 --> 01:17:11.060
by the competition. And for that, I find Alan
01:17:11.060 --> 01:17:15.539
too. And if I find Alan too, no one can tell
01:17:15.539 --> 01:17:17.520
me, like, oh, no, you can do that, that, that's
01:17:17.520 --> 01:17:20.979
not good. No, no, no. I'm alone. I go in my way.
01:17:21.420 --> 01:17:25.819
And I know the road. Maybe sometimes not the
01:17:25.819 --> 01:17:32.300
good one. Just the goal is here. The start is
01:17:32.300 --> 01:17:36.420
here. I go here. Maybe sometimes it's like that.
01:17:36.500 --> 01:17:41.880
Just I go here. And if some people come help
01:17:41.880 --> 01:17:46.380
me, okay, I accept. I take help. I watch. I learn.
01:17:46.760 --> 01:17:50.920
I watch all the athletes, all the time. And I
01:17:50.920 --> 01:17:54.279
accept that just that I'm allowed to go here.
01:17:54.859 --> 01:17:57.739
That's only funny. And the wave is the same.
01:17:58.779 --> 01:18:01.239
Do you feel like there's any other climber who
01:18:01.239 --> 01:18:05.300
has a similar style to you? Yeah, some athletes
01:18:05.300 --> 01:18:08.859
are like that. I think with the high level, it's
01:18:08.859 --> 01:18:10.600
a little bit different because some athletes
01:18:10.600 --> 01:18:14.800
have that, just with more money and more people
01:18:14.800 --> 01:18:21.640
around. For example, this. She is a queen. Queen
01:18:21.640 --> 01:18:26.600
in climbing, Yania. She will not have camp. Just
01:18:26.600 --> 01:18:29.640
Yania train alone. Other times, she like train
01:18:29.640 --> 01:18:33.640
a lot. She are more strong just when she go in
01:18:33.640 --> 01:18:36.399
the camp, when she train with some people. Wow.
01:18:37.359 --> 01:18:41.060
She had just only the focus for weed, only for
01:18:41.060 --> 01:18:45.079
that. And some architects are just... But suddenly,
01:18:45.319 --> 01:18:54.380
we decided to go alone because all people around
01:18:54.380 --> 01:18:59.640
us don't give the same energy, the same motivation.
01:18:59.859 --> 01:19:02.140
And if you don't give the same motivation and
01:19:02.140 --> 01:19:06.460
same energy to me, you can't stay with me. I
01:19:06.460 --> 01:19:08.579
have some trainer, for example, when I come in
01:19:08.579 --> 01:19:10.899
a French team, not the first time, the second
01:19:10.899 --> 01:19:14.199
time, when I move to Voiron for Olympics, I move
01:19:14.199 --> 01:19:16.979
in a place, you have, in this place, you have
01:19:16.979 --> 01:19:20.720
speed, lead, and bullering. Not really good for
01:19:20.720 --> 01:19:22.840
bullering. It's not really good for speed and
01:19:22.840 --> 01:19:25.600
lead because it's outside. It's so -called a
01:19:25.600 --> 01:19:29.180
big part of the year. Just all is in place. Yes,
01:19:29.199 --> 01:19:32.420
the condition is like, if you come here, you
01:19:32.420 --> 01:19:35.949
need to have... The trainer of the French pole
01:19:35.949 --> 01:19:39.310
needs to train you. No problem. For me, no problem.
01:19:39.670 --> 01:19:43.109
I take all I can take. No problem. It starts
01:19:43.109 --> 01:19:48.829
after six months, I say. The guy, when I come,
01:19:48.890 --> 01:19:53.689
because I come first at the gym, and I open the
01:19:53.689 --> 01:19:56.029
gym, I close the gym. I'm not the trainer, I'm
01:19:56.029 --> 01:19:59.750
not the coach, I'm not the owner of the pole.
01:20:00.569 --> 01:20:03.369
I'm just an athlete. It's me, I'm the first,
01:20:03.510 --> 01:20:08.149
I am the last all the day. That's okay, it's
01:20:08.149 --> 01:20:11.369
my choice. I come at seven and a half or eight
01:20:11.369 --> 01:20:14.689
hours to the gym. At seven or eight, I go with
01:20:14.689 --> 01:20:19.869
my home. So for a trainer, I come at nine. And
01:20:19.869 --> 01:20:23.470
five o 'clock, four, five o 'clock, four, five
01:20:23.470 --> 01:20:26.510
o 'clock afternoon, go home. Okay, the coach
01:20:26.510 --> 01:20:29.590
has come at nine. Just me, it's okay, I'm here.
01:20:29.689 --> 01:20:33.100
It's one hour, one hour and a half. Just go to
01:20:33.100 --> 01:20:35.500
the office. You work one hour. You come back
01:20:35.500 --> 01:20:38.180
for the exercise. One hour. You go back to the
01:20:38.180 --> 01:20:40.199
office. Blah, blah, blah. No, no, no, no, no,
01:20:40.199 --> 01:20:42.560
no. It's just that. After six months, I just
01:20:42.560 --> 01:20:45.180
start talking to the guy like, OK, I know you
01:20:45.180 --> 01:20:50.000
have a lot of work. Just you train me. I give
01:20:50.000 --> 01:20:54.619
all my time, all my motivation, all my life for
01:20:54.619 --> 01:20:59.590
this project. It's not just for me. Just... You
01:20:59.590 --> 01:21:05.970
win if I win. The Federation win if I win. Can
01:21:05.970 --> 01:21:10.710
you give the same energy to me? Come. Not come
01:21:10.710 --> 01:21:12.770
at the same time. I know you have a family or
01:21:12.770 --> 01:21:15.170
whatever. I don't talk about that. Just when
01:21:15.170 --> 01:21:18.090
you are with, can you stay with me? If you want,
01:21:18.109 --> 01:21:21.770
you take your laptop and you walk on the gym.
01:21:21.890 --> 01:21:25.050
No problem. This is good. Can you stay with me?
01:21:25.569 --> 01:21:28.859
Can you follow me? And you give him the same
01:21:28.859 --> 01:21:32.460
energy? You say no. Say, okay, I go alone. I
01:21:32.460 --> 01:21:34.340
can understand because you have a lot of work.
01:21:34.600 --> 01:21:38.399
You need to work for the administrative part,
01:21:38.739 --> 01:21:42.319
for the athletes, for the coaching, the plan,
01:21:42.680 --> 01:21:47.699
the training plan. It's a lot of work. I know.
01:21:48.359 --> 01:21:54.279
And just say, okay, I go alone. Because for me,
01:21:54.300 --> 01:21:57.810
I want me, I want only some people. It's the
01:21:57.810 --> 01:22:00.189
same energy and motivation. It's usually not
01:22:00.189 --> 01:22:03.229
that tough. No, I go out and I go out when I
01:22:03.229 --> 01:22:07.489
prefer. I feel like, especially with, we're going
01:22:07.489 --> 01:22:09.689
to get into the evolution of bouldering in a
01:22:09.689 --> 01:22:12.850
bit, but with how much bouldering has changed
01:22:12.850 --> 01:22:15.529
over the years, I feel like doing it alone also
01:22:15.529 --> 01:22:17.869
makes it a lot harder. For you, since you're
01:22:17.869 --> 01:22:21.029
one of the older athletes now, was it hard for
01:22:21.029 --> 01:22:23.329
you to, or do you feel like you had to put a
01:22:23.329 --> 01:22:25.590
lot of work into learning the new moves that
01:22:25.590 --> 01:22:30.550
came with bouldering? Yeah, yeah. The new movement
01:22:30.550 --> 01:22:35.090
and the young, follow the young. It's very hard.
01:22:35.229 --> 01:22:39.289
It's very hard. Just, I don't try to follow the
01:22:39.289 --> 01:22:42.310
young. And that's, I understand very quickly.
01:22:42.350 --> 01:22:46.470
I understand that. Don't try to be the same.
01:22:47.810 --> 01:22:52.109
Mejdi, Paul, Samer Guzou is a French guy because
01:22:52.109 --> 01:22:56.890
I saw lots of French guys from Japan. No, because...
01:22:57.079 --> 01:23:03.199
You don't start with the same material. You don't
01:23:03.199 --> 01:23:05.579
have the same body. You don't have the same attitude.
01:23:06.720 --> 01:23:13.140
Just go with what you have and try to have a
01:23:13.140 --> 01:23:18.779
better level for what you don't have. You know,
01:23:18.920 --> 01:23:22.079
my training, I have a vision of training. It's
01:23:22.079 --> 01:23:26.970
like in first train, you have attitude. first.
01:23:27.649 --> 01:23:35.369
And second, you train what you don't like or
01:23:35.369 --> 01:23:38.109
what's not your aptitude. You train a little
01:23:38.109 --> 01:23:42.430
bit. And don't forget your base, like I talked
01:23:42.430 --> 01:23:46.909
about just before. My aptitude is that. With
01:23:46.909 --> 01:23:51.369
that, I can make the difference. I need to develop
01:23:51.369 --> 01:23:55.750
that, continue to develop that. And if the parts
01:23:56.239 --> 01:23:58.619
don't like, or it's not my aptitude, or whatever,
01:23:58.880 --> 01:24:02.920
it's here. If I can go just like that, maybe
01:24:02.920 --> 01:24:07.760
one time I can do the same to hold, just with
01:24:07.760 --> 01:24:13.180
my aptitude, I can have a better level. And it's
01:24:13.180 --> 01:24:17.399
for that, in comp, all the year, I have a...
01:24:17.399 --> 01:24:20.319
I can make the difference a little bit, because
01:24:20.319 --> 01:24:25.760
I have a big physical boulder, big job. It's
01:24:25.760 --> 01:24:28.079
not just that, because I'm very good in slab,
01:24:28.239 --> 01:24:35.699
too. After some years, I developed my slab skill.
01:24:36.560 --> 01:24:41.319
Because it's only here. It's not about technique.
01:24:41.539 --> 01:24:46.840
It's about waist. It's about waist. Being willing
01:24:46.840 --> 01:24:51.359
to skin your shins and your knees. I have pain
01:24:51.359 --> 01:24:54.670
now, actually, because I have a lot. Oh, no.
01:24:54.770 --> 01:25:01.109
I sleep a lot of time. Yes, I repeat. And yes,
01:25:01.270 --> 01:25:04.409
and it's because I have this attitude, I can
01:25:04.409 --> 01:25:08.029
stay on a high level. And maybe if one time you
01:25:08.029 --> 01:25:10.029
make the difference, maybe it's the time when
01:25:10.029 --> 01:25:15.350
you win. And that's all my career is like that.
01:25:15.449 --> 01:25:19.369
I go in a camp. Maybe my pace is certain. Just
01:25:19.369 --> 01:25:25.000
I do one boulder and just. If you have 100 people
01:25:25.000 --> 01:25:32.220
clients, just five people do this boulder, then
01:25:32.220 --> 01:25:36.279
I'm on these five people. Okay, I can make the
01:25:36.279 --> 01:25:40.000
difference. I can create the difference. I need
01:25:40.000 --> 01:25:43.260
to continue like that because if one time the
01:25:43.260 --> 01:25:46.720
other boulder, I can add the same music to all
01:25:46.720 --> 01:25:50.840
and make the difference, it's okay. Okay. And
01:25:50.840 --> 01:25:54.359
so what is the future for you? I see you're still
01:25:54.359 --> 01:25:56.739
doing some competitions, just not World Cups,
01:25:56.840 --> 01:26:00.600
but still competing. Yeah, I continue the competition,
01:26:00.659 --> 01:26:05.439
like Master and Sound Compete and Sound Compete.
01:26:05.560 --> 01:26:10.359
Just about my future in climbing, competition,
01:26:10.600 --> 01:26:14.720
I don't know. Now I don't know. I have energy.
01:26:15.079 --> 01:26:20.119
Yeah. I have energy. I have... Motivation for
01:26:20.119 --> 01:26:25.960
training. I train lots. Sometimes I don't have
01:26:25.960 --> 01:26:30.319
the same focus, just I train. My level is good.
01:26:32.380 --> 01:26:37.560
It's better, my level. Just, I don't know, I
01:26:37.560 --> 01:26:39.960
don't reflect about what's going to happen. Maybe
01:26:39.960 --> 01:26:42.380
next year I'll come back in camp. I don't know.
01:26:42.439 --> 01:26:45.199
Some people talk to me about, next year I'll
01:26:45.199 --> 01:26:47.869
come in French Championship. Or maybe it's Olympics
01:26:47.869 --> 01:26:52.649
in 20 years, you want to go? Now, no. I have
01:26:52.649 --> 01:26:56.390
what I want. No. I don't know what's going to
01:26:56.390 --> 01:26:58.350
happen in my head in six months, in one year.
01:26:58.850 --> 01:27:04.649
I know, I don't know. Okay, yeah. And it's for
01:27:04.649 --> 01:27:07.010
that I continue to try. It's for that I continue
01:27:07.010 --> 01:27:11.170
to compete. Because I'm not really sure it's
01:27:11.170 --> 01:27:17.640
my time to stop completely. Climbing. Because
01:27:17.640 --> 01:27:21.479
climbing, it's with competition. Climbing is
01:27:21.479 --> 01:27:24.760
with performance. If I don't need that, I can
01:27:24.760 --> 01:27:28.920
put my energy, all my energy, all my time, for
01:27:28.920 --> 01:27:33.979
other, maybe for my family, for my work, and
01:27:33.979 --> 01:27:39.420
just that. For now, it's like 50 -50 climbing
01:27:39.420 --> 01:27:43.659
and work. Just 50 -50 on one day, it's 18 hours
01:27:43.659 --> 01:27:48.560
per day for me. 50 -50, it's nine hours. It's
01:27:48.560 --> 01:27:50.279
not nine. It's like more five -hour climbing
01:27:50.279 --> 01:27:54.560
and 10 -hour, 12 -hour, 12 -hour walk all day.
01:27:56.319 --> 01:27:58.920
Just for future, for climbing. I don't know.
01:27:58.920 --> 01:28:01.300
Just like when I go compete some master, I take
01:28:01.300 --> 01:28:05.000
pleasure because I take pleasure in master, competition,
01:28:05.359 --> 01:28:08.979
international master, because it's a moment when
01:28:08.979 --> 01:28:13.640
I can be a little bit more free and take. time
01:28:13.640 --> 01:28:16.319
with people talk with people talk with athletes
01:28:16.319 --> 01:28:19.199
without with no athlete because i like the community
01:28:19.199 --> 01:28:22.180
in climbing i don't like the community community
01:28:22.180 --> 01:28:27.600
of high level climbing but it's just a part just
01:28:27.600 --> 01:28:30.140
for me i like the community in climbing and i
01:28:30.140 --> 01:28:32.420
like to go in the spoil camp time with a lot
01:28:32.420 --> 01:28:35.779
of people yeah uh go climb in a gym at night
01:28:35.779 --> 01:28:39.079
you have a lot of people A lot of people, when
01:28:39.079 --> 01:28:40.859
I go climbing in the gym, they say, well, you
01:28:40.859 --> 01:28:44.119
can climb at 7 o 'clock. A lot of people, you
01:28:44.119 --> 01:28:46.600
can climb. A lot of people want a picture with
01:28:46.600 --> 01:28:50.520
you, autograph, whatever. This was the best moment.
01:28:51.140 --> 01:28:54.659
We are a climber because we like to share a moment
01:28:54.659 --> 01:28:57.560
like that. We climb bouldering because it's very
01:28:57.560 --> 01:29:01.399
easy. You can talk easily, help. You can climb
01:29:01.399 --> 01:29:03.920
with a beginner, with a world champion, with
01:29:03.920 --> 01:29:06.319
people who climb three times in a week. It's
01:29:06.319 --> 01:29:10.960
very easy. For now, I use climbing like that.
01:29:11.619 --> 01:29:14.619
And the second part about my future, it's work.
01:29:14.960 --> 01:29:20.140
To be rich. I continue to work for that. With
01:29:20.140 --> 01:29:24.359
my brother, I have a gym. Yeah. Yeah, I have
01:29:24.359 --> 01:29:29.979
the gym. We try to create other gyms. We build
01:29:29.979 --> 01:29:34.619
MBS Industries. It's a brand. We build the auto
01:29:34.619 --> 01:29:36.970
belay with electric assistance. Oh, really? Yes,
01:29:37.189 --> 01:29:40.890
it's coming in France. We deliver some gym now,
01:29:41.109 --> 01:29:44.170
slowly going international. It's for giving accessibility
01:29:44.170 --> 01:29:47.069
of climbing. It's a big part of our life because
01:29:47.069 --> 01:29:54.229
we know what climbing gives us. Climbing gives
01:29:54.229 --> 01:29:58.329
a good life, a good environment, good community,
01:29:58.569 --> 01:30:02.090
good friends. And we want to give that for more
01:30:02.090 --> 01:30:05.779
people. And we create. Some auto -ballet assistance
01:30:05.779 --> 01:30:07.960
for give accessibility for disabilities people,
01:30:08.220 --> 01:30:14.060
fat people, old people, to reform a social place.
01:30:14.359 --> 01:30:19.140
Yeah. We build that. I have a shop. I have a
01:30:19.140 --> 01:30:21.220
shop. I build some tools for training. I have
01:30:21.220 --> 01:30:24.239
a different one. I train young. I train some
01:30:24.239 --> 01:30:28.819
young. In climbing, I train. I give my experience.
01:30:29.199 --> 01:30:33.140
A lot of young. Yeah. Not from young. The young
01:30:33.140 --> 01:30:37.420
I want, me. Okay. The young around me have a
01:30:37.420 --> 01:30:42.560
lot of motivation. And we try to build with Madrock.
01:30:42.619 --> 01:30:47.500
I'm in Los Angeles with Madrock for Coty to build
01:30:47.500 --> 01:30:50.260
some material and give accessibility, build the
01:30:50.260 --> 01:30:53.699
shoes, and maybe build the shoes, good shoes
01:30:53.699 --> 01:30:57.699
for climbers. You can pay at 60 or 70 maximum.
01:30:58.880 --> 01:31:05.920
And now it's like... I build all the future with
01:31:05.920 --> 01:31:10.699
the work. Okay. And so no more, like, necessarily
01:31:10.699 --> 01:31:14.340
climbing goals, like climb a harder grade or,
01:31:14.359 --> 01:31:16.720
like, have an outdoor project or anything like
01:31:16.720 --> 01:31:22.600
that? For now, no. For now, I want to, I want,
01:31:22.659 --> 01:31:27.180
I have some small goal. Yeah, yeah, I have, because
01:31:27.180 --> 01:31:31.460
I want to do all in climbing. I do all the comp
01:31:31.460 --> 01:31:34.899
in climbing. Olympics too, it's like, okay, I
01:31:34.899 --> 01:31:41.100
do all. Yeah. Perfect. And the part, I work in
01:31:41.100 --> 01:31:43.100
all the places, climbing, teaching, sitting,
01:31:43.300 --> 01:31:48.119
all. And in climbing, I'm just, I have a part,
01:31:48.199 --> 01:31:54.199
outdoor part. And this outdoor part, maybe to,
01:31:54.399 --> 01:32:03.520
I want to do one 9A in my life. One 9A. It's
01:32:03.520 --> 01:32:07.479
like if I have one 9A in my life, for me, I do
01:32:07.479 --> 01:32:14.800
all. All the world, camp, and outdoor. And for
01:32:14.800 --> 01:32:17.520
me, the story is the story of my brother, too.
01:32:18.960 --> 01:32:22.619
It's the first story to my brother. Maybe my
01:32:22.619 --> 01:32:27.739
brother doesn't have the motivation to go now
01:32:27.739 --> 01:32:30.960
because after speed climbing or start climbing,
01:32:31.039 --> 01:32:36.220
it's very hard. And to go to try to do the action
01:32:36.220 --> 01:32:39.060
direct. Oh, okay. Action direct is the first
01:32:39.060 --> 01:32:45.520
nine hay in the world. Did by the stronger guy,
01:32:45.760 --> 01:32:48.859
the British in the world. The guy is so strong.
01:32:49.439 --> 01:32:53.100
He's a trainer guy. And maybe I want to do that.
01:32:53.399 --> 01:32:56.479
That's a small goal in the outdoor. And so the
01:32:56.479 --> 01:32:59.750
goal is just climbing, climbing, climbing. And
01:32:59.750 --> 01:33:03.029
I want to go, maybe in July, I go to South Africa
01:33:03.029 --> 01:33:07.630
for one month. And just, I don't want to do the
01:33:07.630 --> 01:33:10.369
harbor boulder. There's maybe a lot of boulder.
01:33:11.369 --> 01:33:17.930
And I want to take some moment with some friends
01:33:17.930 --> 01:33:20.510
and share a moment with a lot of people and climb.
01:33:21.350 --> 01:33:24.289
Okay. But mostly work goals. Yeah. Mostly work
01:33:24.289 --> 01:33:26.920
goals. Okay. That makes sense. Great. So let's
01:33:26.920 --> 01:33:28.939
move into some of the audience submitted questions
01:33:28.939 --> 01:33:33.439
now. I think we have around three. First one
01:33:33.439 --> 01:33:35.720
was just from, I guess I'm here now on Instagram,
01:33:35.899 --> 01:33:38.880
just said, no questions, just love. Thank you.
01:33:39.239 --> 01:33:42.479
Thanks a lot. Just love and just stays true.
01:33:42.659 --> 01:33:46.439
And that's most important. Yes, exactly. So now
01:33:46.439 --> 01:33:49.380
the questions. First one, who were your role
01:33:49.380 --> 01:33:51.560
models growing up, climbing or non -climbing
01:33:51.560 --> 01:33:55.140
related? Only my boss. Okay. Only Mike Bozer,
01:33:55.180 --> 01:34:02.000
you know. Mike Bozer, it's, wow. He has a mental,
01:34:02.260 --> 01:34:05.739
crazy mental, crazy brain. He can be very focused
01:34:05.739 --> 01:34:12.899
on his goal and very consistency. And, yeah,
01:34:12.960 --> 01:34:18.579
it's the best example I can have in my life.
01:34:18.699 --> 01:34:22.779
Yeah. Not climb my life, in my life. And I follow
01:34:22.779 --> 01:34:26.930
Mike Bozer. I'm not I build a part of my life
01:34:26.930 --> 01:34:33.869
alone maybe it's 70 % I build it's for me and
01:34:33.869 --> 01:34:37.789
30 % I follow my brother because it's a good
01:34:37.789 --> 01:34:43.229
example of guy good with all people don't forget
01:34:43.229 --> 01:34:47.770
where you're from give all for what he wants
01:34:47.770 --> 01:34:52.189
take a lot of risk yeah my brother yeah okay
01:34:52.939 --> 01:34:59.300
Next one from Jenilofa Chandelina. Okay. Just
01:34:59.300 --> 01:35:01.720
wants to know more about your family. Has your
01:35:01.720 --> 01:35:04.560
mother ever climbed? Have you ever taken them
01:35:04.560 --> 01:35:09.899
climbing? No. In my family, no one climbed. My
01:35:09.899 --> 01:35:12.600
sister started climbing at the same time. Okay.
01:35:12.819 --> 01:35:15.399
One of my sisters. I have two sisters. And one
01:35:15.399 --> 01:35:17.100
of my sisters started climbing at the same time.
01:35:17.199 --> 01:35:20.840
She stopped after three years. The problem is
01:35:20.840 --> 01:35:24.710
cold. About... You are a woman, break nails,
01:35:25.630 --> 01:35:30.430
your body, your legs, your muscles. If you have
01:35:30.430 --> 01:35:32.710
muscles, you are not a woman. That's a shit world
01:35:32.710 --> 01:35:37.670
for the artist. So that just, we don't have...
01:35:37.670 --> 01:35:42.550
Beside me, we are only... We are the children
01:35:42.550 --> 01:35:50.310
who do sports. My family and my mother are just
01:35:50.310 --> 01:35:54.539
tired. Just take... Too much working. Exactly,
01:35:54.539 --> 01:35:58.220
too much working for the children. She has six
01:35:58.220 --> 01:36:02.300
for a lot of years ago, like 20 years. She fights
01:36:02.300 --> 01:36:07.539
for the life. For that, I live in a small region
01:36:07.539 --> 01:36:10.819
in France. I build my gym in a small region because
01:36:10.819 --> 01:36:14.020
I want to take my family, my father, my mother,
01:36:14.060 --> 01:36:20.850
just close to me. And my story is like... Because
01:36:20.850 --> 01:36:23.250
we developed the automobile with electric assistance,
01:36:23.529 --> 01:36:28.029
for accessibility for all people. Yeah. And my,
01:36:28.130 --> 01:36:33.569
not my royal father, my father actually, started
01:36:33.569 --> 01:36:39.550
climbing in October, last, in October. Wow. Some
01:36:39.550 --> 01:36:42.489
months ago. Took a long time to get into it.
01:36:42.750 --> 01:36:47.649
Exactly, at 81 years. Wow. 81 years, and you
01:36:47.649 --> 01:36:49.899
go climbing two, three times in a week. Wow.
01:36:50.140 --> 01:36:52.880
With the system, because without it, it's too
01:36:52.880 --> 01:36:56.600
hard. Yeah. With the system. And that's, for
01:36:56.600 --> 01:37:02.939
me, the best. Because my father helped us a lot
01:37:02.939 --> 01:37:07.119
to have a house, to have food, and to go to school.
01:37:07.840 --> 01:37:12.000
And because we have a better situation. My mother
01:37:12.000 --> 01:37:16.960
works because my mother, she's not with this
01:37:16.960 --> 01:37:20.390
guy just because at the beginning. Because it's
01:37:20.390 --> 01:37:24.409
a good guy. Because you need good life for the
01:37:24.409 --> 01:37:27.829
children. Okay. A lot of people are like that.
01:37:28.069 --> 01:37:33.369
You don't stay like, oh, you are with this girl
01:37:33.369 --> 01:37:38.510
because you love. No. At the beginning, you don't
01:37:38.510 --> 01:37:41.770
love these people. These people give you something.
01:37:42.770 --> 01:37:47.170
Interesting. And sometimes, some people are...
01:37:48.029 --> 01:37:51.689
That's like, okay, bring stuff. Like, okay, I
01:37:51.689 --> 01:37:53.170
don't know what's happened. Just we need to be
01:37:53.170 --> 01:37:59.569
together. Just for 99 % it's like, you give me
01:37:59.569 --> 01:38:02.090
slide all the day. Okay, I want to be with you.
01:38:02.869 --> 01:38:07.729
You give me security. Okay, I want to be with
01:38:07.729 --> 01:38:11.409
you. You give me money, I can do with you. Okay.
01:38:12.060 --> 01:38:14.619
Very practical way of looking at it. Yeah, after
01:38:14.619 --> 01:38:17.520
you breathe the love. You breathe the love, you
01:38:17.520 --> 01:38:21.880
breathe life together. At the beginning, you
01:38:21.880 --> 01:38:28.479
follow one person or you start a life with one
01:38:28.479 --> 01:38:30.619
person because they give you something and maybe
01:38:30.619 --> 01:38:33.159
you give you something too. It's like together,
01:38:33.399 --> 01:38:37.479
just another thing. And yeah, my father followed
01:38:37.479 --> 01:38:44.520
all my life. He buys the first climbing shoes.
01:38:47.000 --> 01:38:50.899
He gives us a big support. Just he never can
01:38:50.899 --> 01:38:53.699
climb because it's a hole, he has a lot of injury,
01:38:54.260 --> 01:39:00.039
a lot of weight too. And at 81 years, I climbed
01:39:00.039 --> 01:39:03.399
the first time with him. And like, it's just
01:39:03.399 --> 01:39:08.399
like, for me, it's like, okay. I win because...
01:39:10.250 --> 01:39:13.449
I mean, because my father -in -law can understand
01:39:13.449 --> 01:39:20.109
what he creates. Because it gives me the possibility
01:39:20.109 --> 01:39:25.590
to have what I have now, what I do. And he can
01:39:25.590 --> 01:39:27.909
have the sensation of that. And after that, he
01:39:27.909 --> 01:39:30.649
says, whoa, it's cool. And he could climb three
01:39:30.649 --> 01:39:33.170
times in a week. Okay, that's good to hear. It's
01:39:33.170 --> 01:39:37.229
like full circle. Exactly. Okay. Last question
01:39:37.229 --> 01:39:40.109
then from Kathy Sage. How do you maintain strength
01:39:40.109 --> 01:39:44.149
without getting injured? Who? The goal. Your
01:39:44.149 --> 01:39:48.270
goal. You know, you can, if you have injury or
01:39:48.270 --> 01:39:52.210
whatever, you say you need to go to physiotherapist,
01:39:52.210 --> 01:39:58.670
put high, to just that. Okay. That's the part,
01:39:58.729 --> 01:40:05.300
the normal part of recovery. Just. What gives
01:40:05.300 --> 01:40:09.520
the energy to recovery? It's what you want. For
01:40:09.520 --> 01:40:12.619
what? For what you recovery? Because you have
01:40:12.619 --> 01:40:15.300
a competition, because you have a goal, because
01:40:15.300 --> 01:40:18.020
you have your children, they need to have you
01:40:18.020 --> 01:40:20.199
to harm, because you have to walk and you need
01:40:20.199 --> 01:40:23.220
to come back, because not you want to walk, because
01:40:23.220 --> 01:40:26.359
you need the money for something and you need
01:40:26.359 --> 01:40:30.180
to go to the walk. And just put your goal and
01:40:30.180 --> 01:40:36.760
say, okay, I need to, To work hard because my
01:40:36.760 --> 01:40:41.500
goal is here. And maybe I need to put hold, to
01:40:41.500 --> 01:40:44.539
have a good recovery, fast recovery, because
01:40:44.539 --> 01:40:48.100
my goal is just here. If it's 10 years, maybe
01:40:48.100 --> 01:40:53.319
I can take my time. It's not now. Just maybe
01:40:53.319 --> 01:40:57.659
reflect about your goal and that gives you motivation
01:40:57.659 --> 01:41:01.960
for a fast recovery or not, or just good recovery.
01:41:02.750 --> 01:41:06.810
My brother in the Olympics, but the biceps. Yep.
01:41:07.010 --> 01:41:10.529
Why he have a fast recovery after five months.
01:41:10.770 --> 01:41:13.649
Wow, it was only five months. Five months, he
01:41:13.649 --> 01:41:18.850
break, surgery, five months. He can climb at
01:41:18.850 --> 01:41:22.350
100%. He was climbing after three months. Wow.
01:41:22.409 --> 01:41:27.270
And after five months, 100 % he can climb. Only
01:41:27.270 --> 01:41:33.109
because he need to continue. because I don't
01:41:33.109 --> 01:41:36.430
have my goal. Yeah. Not for him, because he may
01:41:36.430 --> 01:41:38.810
have hope. It's just for me, I don't have my
01:41:38.810 --> 01:41:43.850
goal. I need to continue. Just if, if four continue,
01:41:44.090 --> 01:41:47.890
you need to have a good level for state. Okay,
01:41:47.970 --> 01:41:51.010
you need to go fast. And he go four times per
01:41:51.010 --> 01:41:53.689
week on the physiotherapist. Ah, yeah. If he
01:41:53.689 --> 01:41:57.109
go, he go, he make some, he create some exercise
01:41:57.109 --> 01:42:01.439
every week. Yeah, big focus because the goal
01:42:01.439 --> 01:42:06.720
is here. If you have some problem, if you say,
01:42:06.899 --> 01:42:10.039
okay, injury is complicated, check your goal,
01:42:10.119 --> 01:42:13.439
and normally you find the motivation. Or not.
01:42:13.699 --> 01:42:16.720
And if you don't have motivation, maybe it's
01:42:16.720 --> 01:42:19.520
not a good goal. Okay. What was the hardest injury
01:42:19.520 --> 01:42:24.159
for you? The hardest injury, it's my finger.
01:42:24.399 --> 01:42:27.850
All my finger. I know my finger heart breaks
01:42:27.850 --> 01:42:32.470
like a little bit here. Yeah, me too. I start
01:42:32.470 --> 01:42:40.170
with this injury when I have 70 years. All my
01:42:40.170 --> 01:42:42.149
finger heart breaks. I can't climb. I need to
01:42:42.149 --> 01:42:46.649
stop one year. I have 17. Not one year, like
01:42:46.649 --> 01:42:50.569
10 months. Because I can't take my class like
01:42:50.569 --> 01:42:55.100
that. Pool of holes. It's so complicated. And
01:42:55.100 --> 01:43:00.960
after 10 months, I know maybe my figure never
01:43:00.960 --> 01:43:04.899
changed. Now it's break. And I tread on my car
01:43:04.899 --> 01:43:09.939
with that. And that's the most hard part because
01:43:09.939 --> 01:43:12.699
not only my figure, a lot of part of my body,
01:43:12.760 --> 01:43:19.380
I have pain all the day. I pick, just I do that,
01:43:19.420 --> 01:43:21.899
I have pain. Oh, really? I touch like that, I
01:43:21.899 --> 01:43:25.710
have pain. a touch like that I have pain yeah
01:43:25.710 --> 01:43:30.529
is that all the time I put I should I want to
01:43:30.529 --> 01:43:33.430
take something in my car like that I have pain
01:43:33.430 --> 01:43:37.329
yeah that hurts and that's I think it's hard
01:43:37.329 --> 01:43:42.189
to start the beginning of your life with a break
01:43:42.189 --> 01:43:45.689
body and continue with that and try to find the
01:43:45.689 --> 01:43:51.989
solution to to continue and yeah okay No tips
01:43:51.989 --> 01:43:54.210
for not getting injured, I guess. Just how to
01:43:54.210 --> 01:43:57.210
push through the pain. No, no. Yes, we have the
01:43:57.210 --> 01:44:02.449
tips. There's the tips. It's very hard. It's
01:44:02.449 --> 01:44:06.949
to be good, to drink a lot of water. If you have
01:44:06.949 --> 01:44:13.789
a problem, go to the physio. Try to have a flexible
01:44:13.789 --> 01:44:24.359
body. Make a good warm -up all the time. And
01:44:24.359 --> 01:44:28.720
listen to your body. When you are tired, go to
01:44:28.720 --> 01:44:33.880
sleep. If you go to this weekend to party with
01:44:33.880 --> 01:44:36.640
your friends, take a three -day break. But because
01:44:36.640 --> 01:44:38.340
you need to train one day, you go one day. No.
01:44:39.539 --> 01:44:42.680
No, now you need to take a break. Just that.
01:44:42.739 --> 01:44:47.800
And if you do that, you can have a good career
01:44:47.800 --> 01:44:51.140
and no injury. Just sit down. It's hard to do
01:44:51.140 --> 01:44:54.560
that. It's a hard path. Yeah. Okay. Well, that's
01:44:54.560 --> 01:44:56.359
all the questions I had. Thank you for joining
01:44:56.359 --> 01:44:58.680
me today. Anything you want to shout out or let
01:44:58.680 --> 01:45:01.340
people know where they can find you? If you have
01:45:01.340 --> 01:45:03.760
any questions, Instagram, send me a message.
01:45:04.319 --> 01:45:08.199
I try to give a response to all people. And I
01:45:08.199 --> 01:45:11.720
give a response to all people if you need. Just
01:45:11.720 --> 01:45:14.840
send me a message on Instagram and for sure I
01:45:14.840 --> 01:45:19.050
can give you a response if I have. Okay. Awesome.
01:45:19.050 --> 01:45:20.930
Well, thank you again. It was amazing to talk
01:45:20.930 --> 01:45:23.890
to you. A big pleasure. Thank you for my experience.
01:45:24.229 --> 01:45:26.960
I like it. And enjoy Vegas. Thank you. Thank
01:45:26.960 --> 01:45:29.520
you so much for making it to the end of the podcast.
01:45:29.760 --> 01:45:32.300
Don't forget to like and subscribe if you enjoyed.
01:45:32.500 --> 01:45:36.140
Otherwise, you are a super fake climber. If you're
01:45:36.140 --> 01:45:38.560
listening on a podcasting platform, I'd appreciate
01:45:38.560 --> 01:45:41.300
if you rate it five stars and you can continue
01:45:41.300 --> 01:45:44.079
the discussion on the free competition climbing
01:45:44.079 --> 01:45:47.079
discord linked in the description. Thanks again
01:45:47.079 --> 01:45:47.539
for listening.
