53: Emma Edwards, Team GB One-to-Watch

Written By Jinni Xia

Emma is a boulderer on Team GB. 2025 was her debut in the senior world cup circuit and she already made a world cup finals! However, if you don’t recognize her, it may be because that was Prague where her finals round got rained out. In this episode, we’ll go over ALL the mishaps that happened at Prague including an allergic reaction, and we’ll learn about her training schedule, team GB, the climbing culture in commercial gyms, and how often she goes through climbing shoes, which was MIND BLOWING.

Show Notes

Guest links:

Emma’s Instagram

Reference links:

Timestamps

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:31 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:11 - My annual stretching resolution

5:29 - Used to do 6 days on 1 day off?!

9:29 - Getting into climbing and competing

11:47 - First year in the Senior Circuit

14:28 - Starstruck warming up next to Miho & Janja

16:02 - AUDIENCE Q: Advice for youth climbers transitioning to senior?

17:02 - Climbing styles

20:12 - Prague allergic reaction disaster

24:59 - Prague finals getting rained out

27:31 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you feel about the mental side of comp climbing?

29:51 - Pretty decent prize money! :o

31:40 - Being a taller climber

32:45 - Team GB training in commercial gyms

38:09 - British Youtube + Zoella

39:47 - Season expectations?

42:14 - Toxic Gym Culture?

46:45 - Outdoor Climbing

47:55 - Enjoying sedentary activities

50:29 - Trying to balance training with school

53:27 - AUDIENCE Q: How do you decide what gyms to train at?

55:12 - AUDIENCE Q: Making climbing shoes last?

59:09 - AUDIENCE Q: Favorite boulder from Brussels European cup?

1:00:35 - AUDIENCE Q: What's the difference between TC and world cups?

1:02:42 - AUDIENCE Q: Does your brother climb harder than you yet?

1:04:43 - Words of wisdom and where to find Emma

  • WEBVTT

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    I was just talking to one of my friends in the

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    bathroom and then she walked out of one of the

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    stalls and we looked at each other and we were

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    like, oh my gosh, it's Janja. So then we went

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    to ISO. I just was talking to one of my coaches

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    like, I can't do it. I felt sick, I was falling

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    asleep. It was only my third World Cup and being

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    in finals felt crazy. So I was just so, so excited.

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    And then when it was cancelled... I was yeah

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    really upset my first thought was like oh no

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    what if I'd never make a finals again they'll

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    just like make a comment or say like oh like

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    if I was as light as you I'd do that climb Welcome

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    to another episode of the That's Not Real Climbing

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    podcast. I'm your host, Jinni, and I'm excited

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    to introduce my guest for today, Emma Edwards.

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    Emma is a boulder on Team GB, and 2025 was her

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    debut in the senior World Cup circuit, and she's

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    already made a World Cup finals. However, if

    00:00:59.630 --> 00:01:02.009

    you don't recognize her, it may be because that

    00:01:02.009 --> 00:01:05.280

    was Prague where her finals got rained out. In

    00:01:05.280 --> 00:01:07.400

    this episode, we'll go over all the mishaps that

    00:01:07.400 --> 00:01:09.519

    happened at Prague, including an allergic reaction.

    00:01:09.959 --> 00:01:12.579

    We'll learn about her training schedule, Team

    00:01:12.579 --> 00:01:15.379

    GB, and the climbing culture in commercial gyms,

    00:01:15.439 --> 00:01:17.760

    and how often she goes through climbing shoes,

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    which kind of blew my mind. I hope you enjoy

    00:01:20.799 --> 00:01:32.480

    this episode with Emma. Please pardon this brief

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    intermission, but I'm excited to talk about Mad

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    Rock's newest and softest shoe yet, the Remora

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    Pro. If you like being able to feel the chips

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    you're standing on, and you like not having to

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    worry about standing on sketchy volumes in competitions,

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    then this is the soft shoe for you. They also

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    have a crazy 3D heel that allows you to get more

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    surface area when heel hooking, and inserts that

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    lock your heel into the shoe no matter how hard

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    you're pulling. Feel free to message me if you

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    have any questions about the shoes or sizing,

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    and you can use the discount code NOTREALCLIMBER

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    for 10 % off your entire Mad Rock order. Thank

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    you to Mad Rock for helping to sponsor the podcast.

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    Now, back to the show. How was your holidays?

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    Yeah, really nice. Thank you. And you? yeah it

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    was good do you have any like new year's plans

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    or resolutions ideas oh god um i've not really

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    thought about resolutions i want to be more organized

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    um yeah i need to get on it um but yeah i don't

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    really know to be fair do you have any new year's

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    plans not really any plans i always try to make

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    a resolution to like start stretching but it's

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    just so freaking boring I can't do it it's hard

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    isn't it it's like I used to have such a perfectionist

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    mindset with it as well and like it's I think

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    starting is the hardest part and I would be like

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    if I couldn't like the thought of doing it badly

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    I was like no I just can't be bothered to do

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    it but actually like doing something's better

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    than nothing but what's doing it badly for stretching

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    I don't know like I went through a phase where

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    I would have to do like 30 seconds in each stretch

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    and I'd do all my stretches um and then doing

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    it badly would just be like not I don't know

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    just not doing it properly and then I would just

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    find it really hard to stop because I'd have

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    this whole thing in my head of god I have to

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    get through like stretching but then I think

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    since I've been a bit more like relaxed with

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    it I like do it way more now Okay. What's your

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    routine look like? Or I guess you don't have

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    a routine because that would be too much perfection.

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    Yeah, maybe. For stretching, I think it's, I

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    try to stretch like every day. Not every day

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    is like a big stretching day. Like if I'm tired,

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    it's like getting to sleep is more important,

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    I think. But I definitely like try to do a bit

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    of like massage gun and foam roll. And then when

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    I can't stretch, I don't know. Yeah, I... tried

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    to get like a split one year very yeah very short

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    amount of time that I spent trying to do that

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    I've I always have the goal of middle splits

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    that I've never done but it like I would I was

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    doing it and I think maybe I was doing it too

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    hard Oh, really? Like overstretching? Yeah, I

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    think I was just like stretching too extreme

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    for what I was able to do. And then it made my

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    knees hurt really bad. Oh, really? I guess sometimes

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    like when you're holding middle split, it's like

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    the inside of the knees. That hurts me sometimes.

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    I don't know. Was it that or? It's kind of like

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    when you maybe like fall and then it like bends

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    the other way too much. Oh, are you hypermobile

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    or? No, no. It was just too much on the knees,

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    I think, when I stopped. then I never picked

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    it up again no middle splits I feel like I'm

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    like I'm relatively flexible but like box splits

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    or middle splits is the one I just like I can't

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    do and I need to be like committed for like yeah

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    a long time and consistent but do you think it

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    would help with climbing yeah for sure I think

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    it's like the most important one for climbing

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    with like keeping your hips into the wall and

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    especially and with slabs and everything um but

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    it's the one that I'm worst at which is really

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    annoying yeah I wasn't trying middle splits though

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    I was trying to do front splits that's the one

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    where you're like oh this one yeah it wasn't

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    for like climbing I just thought it'd be fun

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    no no that's cool that's cool but maybe that

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    can be your resolution as well yeah yeah yeah

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    no for sure um how is winter training going winter

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    it's going really well actually yeah I've started

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    working with a new coach um and yeah it's going

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    really well so far what does your training look

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    like So currently, I've actually switched to

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    doing three days on, one day off. Last winter,

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    I did six days on, one day off. Whoa, that's

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    a lot. Yeah, it was, I think it like, I don't

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    know, it's definitely beneficial in some ways,

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    but then in other ways, it's not beneficial.

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    I don't know to do it right is hard and then

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    I'm only doing Boulder so I think maybe this

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    year the thinking was more like I'll try to have

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    like three like good sessions like with skin

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    and then a rest day and then just repeat but

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    yeah I'm doing three on one off and just like

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    everything really like climbing gym I don't know

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    the usual like strength training and hangboarding

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    stuff like that yeah yeah I think most sessions

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    I'll have like some form of like fingerboarding

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    or like I do like those pinch pickup things um

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    and then I'll have like a climbing session which

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    could be like subs and then power endurance or

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    like comp blocks and then a hardboard session

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    and then um not every day but a lot of days recently

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    I've been having gym it's very much like I don't

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    know it feels like it's like let's get out as

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    tired as possible and like push our arms as much

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    as we can do you is your coach there like the

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    entire time while you're training no no um so

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    he writes my training plan and then I see him

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    like once or twice a week in person for sessions.

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    That makes sense. What did your six days on training

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    look like? That sounds crazy to me. Last winter.

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    Yeah, it was a lot. It was more like I would

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    do like hard day, hard day, easy day, hard day,

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    hard day, easy day, kind of. So maybe like the

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    third day would be like slabs and conditioning

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    or something. So I'd have skin for the next days.

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    But it was just a lot of climbing, a lot of gym.

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    But I think if you like build up your capacity

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    and you can train that much, then it can be okay.

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    I don't know. Was it mainly just like a skin

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    issue? Yeah, I think I did. I think now I'm preferring

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    the three on one off to the six days because

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    I just have. more skin and energy for the sessions

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    and I can make them like better quality sessions

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    I think did you ever like tape up your skin to

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    yeah yeah for sure I think I don't know it's

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    really annoying and it's annoying like I've definitely

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    found it mentally hard at first to be like taped

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    and not doing a climb and knowing if I untaped

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    that I would find it okay I think it takes like

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    a lot of maturity to be like no it's fine like

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    it doesn't matter it's just training you can

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    tape um but when i was doing six days i definitely

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    spent a lot of sessions taped i think yeah i

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    mean i wonder if that's helpful too because then

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    it makes you i don't know like work your grip

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    harder yeah work your body positioning maybe

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    it could be a thing i think erin spends a lot

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    of time taped up and she has really strong hands

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    so maybe it's the manual yeah actually i wonder

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    if i should try that out just tape up every session

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    yeah i mean because I feel like for me, I'm so

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    texture dependent. Like if the texture on a hold

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    isn't good, I'm like over it. Yeah, no, same.

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    I hate a badly textured hold. Yeah, so I think

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    maybe I need to work on that now that I think

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    about it. So yeah, let's get into learning more

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    about you and your climbing. How did you start

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    out getting into climbing and competing? My parents

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    both climbed a little bit in uni, like not properly,

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    but... They occasionally went like outdoor climbing

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    and so I think when I started climbing when I

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    was 10 we were visiting family in France in Paris

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    and we went to Font and I think that was my first

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    time climbing and then we came home and I think

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    I asked to go like I just asked to go climbing

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    and then like six months later I joined a kids

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    club and yeah I just really liked it. Did you

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    do, like, family trips? We did when I was younger

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    to Font, yeah, yeah. It was really nice. And

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    then when did you actually start competing a

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    bunch? Or, like, do you, like, remember a moment

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    when you decided to start doing it seriously?

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    So I started competing, like, quite soon after

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    I started climbing. There was, like, this competition

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    circuit called the Youth Climbing Series in the

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    UK, and it was, like, you do regional comps,

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    and then you try to make it to the national.

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    like grand final they used to call it um so I

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    did that like six months after I started climbing

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    but when I like took it seriously I think that

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    was maybe when I was like 15 or something I like

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    just I don't know I decided I wanted to get onto

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    the GB team and yeah what inspired you to want

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    to get onto the GB team or like how do you make

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    the decision that I don't know it's like hard

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    for me to imagine being so young and deciding

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    that it's something I want to do, I don't know,

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    like, professionally or take really seriously.

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    It kind of, like, just, like, built up. Like,

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    I started with the regional comps and the national

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    comps and then I would, like, make national finals

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    and just seeing all the people in the GB team,

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    it just felt like the next step. And then, like,

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    I really wanted to go to the internationals and

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    I don't know. Yeah, it just felt like the next

    00:11:35.559 --> 00:11:39.820

    thing. that was coming I don't know like it just

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    yeah you don't you don't feel like there was

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    a specific decision it was just like this makes

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    sense is the next thing to work towards I think

    00:11:47.259 --> 00:11:51.220

    so okay so yeah this was your first year in the

    00:11:51.220 --> 00:11:54.360

    senior circuit right yes yeah yeah I mean it

    00:11:54.360 --> 00:11:56.789

    was a crazy first year in the senior circuit

    00:11:56.789 --> 00:11:59.830

    I think you made semis in all world cups except

    00:11:59.830 --> 00:12:02.870

    for one uh yeah apart from Kachow at the start

    00:12:02.870 --> 00:12:06.169

    of the season yeah um how did it feel and what

    00:12:06.169 --> 00:12:09.590

    did you learn from the 2025 season um it was

    00:12:09.590 --> 00:12:12.690

    really cool uh yeah I didn't expect it to go

    00:12:12.690 --> 00:12:15.669

    so well like obviously I hoped it would go well

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    um but it was just like crazy to be competing

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    with the people who I've watched like on my screen

    00:12:24.990 --> 00:12:28.409

    for so long and to like just be in iso and just

    00:12:28.409 --> 00:12:30.330

    even like seeing them warming up it's just like

    00:12:30.330 --> 00:12:35.389

    insane um and yeah i think i learned a lot about

    00:12:35.389 --> 00:12:39.970

    like myself and uh the comps and was it like

    00:12:39.970 --> 00:12:42.870

    your first time um like traveling around for

    00:12:42.870 --> 00:12:46.129

    competitions too uh with the youth team i'd already

    00:12:46.129 --> 00:12:48.309

    done like a decent amount of traveling around

    00:12:48.309 --> 00:12:52.070

    europe and then uh for youth worlds I'd been

    00:12:52.070 --> 00:12:56.470

    to Dallas and South Korea and China actually

    00:12:56.470 --> 00:13:02.429

    before but um it was definitely like a very different

    00:13:02.429 --> 00:13:05.909

    experience and like having all the comps back

    00:13:05.909 --> 00:13:10.129

    to back that was yeah very new for me and i think

    00:13:10.129 --> 00:13:13.289

    i could have done things better i'm not sure

    00:13:13.289 --> 00:13:15.730

    i think yeah what would you like change about

    00:13:15.730 --> 00:13:18.370

    the traveling for next year not sure i think

    00:13:18.370 --> 00:13:21.289

    i need to figure it out for next year um but

    00:13:21.289 --> 00:13:24.289

    i definitely felt that i got like physically

    00:13:24.289 --> 00:13:27.730

    quite tired by the end of the season and i would

    00:13:27.730 --> 00:13:33.029

    hope to like um yeah hopefully with my coach

    00:13:33.029 --> 00:13:36.529

    we can figure out how i maybe don't get so tired

    00:13:36.529 --> 00:13:38.970

    like maybe it's a case of like training more

    00:13:38.970 --> 00:13:43.230

    or training a bit less i'm not too sure um but

    00:13:43.230 --> 00:13:46.929

    yeah i'd like to figure that one out like you

    00:13:46.929 --> 00:13:49.330

    were still doing training during the season um

    00:13:49.330 --> 00:13:55.210

    no like kind of like not training training so

    00:13:55.210 --> 00:13:59.750

    much like i wasn't doing long days um but i was

    00:13:59.750 --> 00:14:02.169

    still doing like shorter hard sessions because

    00:14:02.169 --> 00:14:05.840

    you want to stay recruited um I don't know I

    00:14:05.840 --> 00:14:08.940

    think it's a hard balance to find like the right

    00:14:08.940 --> 00:14:12.580

    amount to do I find it quite hard to uh like

    00:14:12.580 --> 00:14:16.559

    know what my body needs but hopefully with like

    00:14:16.559 --> 00:14:18.899

    the pasture and everything I can figure it out

    00:14:18.899 --> 00:14:21.960

    a bit better yeah and you also said it was cool

    00:14:21.960 --> 00:14:24.659

    to be an iso competing with the people you watched

    00:14:24.659 --> 00:14:27.740

    on screen yeah it was crazy who was like who

    00:14:27.740 --> 00:14:30.940

    are you like most like did you feel nervous warming

    00:14:30.940 --> 00:14:33.360

    up next to them was there like anyone that you

    00:14:33.360 --> 00:14:36.259

    super looked up to that yeah I remember in Kachow

    00:14:36.259 --> 00:14:40.120

    seeing like Miho and I was just like fangirling

    00:14:40.120 --> 00:14:42.740

    so hard like oh my gosh just like seeing her

    00:14:42.740 --> 00:14:47.059

    in person was crazy and then I remember seeing

    00:14:47.059 --> 00:14:50.080

    Yanya for the first time in Innsbruck like that

    00:14:50.080 --> 00:14:52.799

    was insane i think i was just talking to one

    00:14:52.799 --> 00:14:54.539

    of my friends in the bathroom and then she like

    00:14:54.539 --> 00:14:56.799

    walked out of one of the stalls and i was we

    00:14:56.799 --> 00:14:58.500

    looked at each other and we're like oh my gosh

    00:14:58.500 --> 00:15:02.820

    did you say anything or you just kind of stared

    00:15:02.820 --> 00:15:07.059

    just like tried not to like be too obvious um

    00:15:07.059 --> 00:15:12.960

    but yeah i think it was really cool to um like

    00:15:12.960 --> 00:15:16.379

    see those people in real life and yeah everyone's

    00:15:16.379 --> 00:15:19.190

    just like so nice and it's really cool I wonder

    00:15:19.190 --> 00:15:21.929

    how she feels when people just like, when she

    00:15:21.929 --> 00:15:24.450

    just like walks out and sees people like whispering

    00:15:24.450 --> 00:15:28.190

    about her to the side. But yeah, how do you feel

    00:15:28.190 --> 00:15:31.149

    like warming up in that environment? Like, does

    00:15:31.149 --> 00:15:34.889

    it feel nerve wracking and scary warming up next

    00:15:34.889 --> 00:15:37.730

    to people like that? I think I definitely found

    00:15:37.730 --> 00:15:41.250

    it intimidating at first because just like watching

    00:15:41.250 --> 00:15:43.710

    people, like everyone is so impressive and like

    00:15:43.710 --> 00:15:45.809

    so strong, like the moves they're doing on the

    00:15:45.809 --> 00:15:48.980

    spray wall. I was, especially like in Kachow,

    00:15:49.120 --> 00:15:52.039

    I was just like, oh my gosh. But I think as the

    00:15:52.039 --> 00:15:55.379

    season went on, I became more comfortable with

    00:15:55.379 --> 00:15:58.320

    it for sure. But definitely at first I found

    00:15:58.320 --> 00:16:02.659

    it quite intimidating. Yeah, I bet. One of the

    00:16:02.659 --> 00:16:04.960

    audience submitted questions that had come in

    00:16:04.960 --> 00:16:08.259

    was, how has the transition from youth to senior

    00:16:08.259 --> 00:16:10.179

    been for you? And do you have any advice for

    00:16:10.179 --> 00:16:11.759

    youth climbers going through that transition?

    00:16:12.200 --> 00:16:14.980

    Yeah, I found the transition from youth to senior,

    00:16:15.080 --> 00:16:19.059

    like, good but also hard at times because it's

    00:16:19.059 --> 00:16:22.879

    just that you're going into a much more competitive

    00:16:22.879 --> 00:16:26.299

    and harder environment and everyone is just so

    00:16:26.299 --> 00:16:30.480

    good and there's so many people i think if i

    00:16:30.480 --> 00:16:33.740

    had advice it would try to be it would be to

    00:16:33.740 --> 00:16:36.480

    try to be confident because it's really hard

    00:16:36.480 --> 00:16:42.259

    at times and i definitely found like going into

    00:16:42.259 --> 00:16:45.399

    senior I had a lot of like self -doubt and just

    00:16:45.399 --> 00:16:47.600

    when you like see the start list and you see

    00:16:47.600 --> 00:16:49.919

    all the names on the start list it's hard to

    00:16:49.919 --> 00:16:52.379

    look at that and think how am I meant to compete

    00:16:52.379 --> 00:16:54.379

    against these people because they're all so good

    00:16:54.379 --> 00:16:58.580

    but they're also just people and like everyone's

    00:16:58.580 --> 00:17:02.100

    in the same boat like yeah I think that would

    00:17:02.100 --> 00:17:05.160

    be my advice. Did you feel like there was a difference

    00:17:05.160 --> 00:17:07.880

    in the actual boulders between youth and senior

    00:17:07.880 --> 00:17:11.650

    like they climbed differently? Yeah I think senior

    00:17:11.650 --> 00:17:14.710

    one's definitely a bit more powerful in my opinion

    00:17:14.710 --> 00:17:19.410

    um which is really cool uh especially like in

    00:17:19.410 --> 00:17:22.670

    semi -finals like the power boulders are usually

    00:17:22.670 --> 00:17:25.990

    really really hard is that um more of a strength

    00:17:25.990 --> 00:17:27.890

    for you or do you get nervous when it comes to

    00:17:27.890 --> 00:17:30.609

    like power boulders i don't think it's my strength

    00:17:30.609 --> 00:17:34.950

    but i think in competitions i climb power boulders

    00:17:35.450 --> 00:17:37.829

    i find them the easiest to like get into a good

    00:17:37.829 --> 00:17:40.230

    mindset and try my best on like i find slabs

    00:17:40.230 --> 00:17:43.009

    in comps quite hard but power boulders it's just

    00:17:43.009 --> 00:17:45.190

    like okay i know this is going to be really hard

    00:17:45.190 --> 00:17:48.349

    i know i'm going to have to try as hard as i

    00:17:48.349 --> 00:17:50.990

    can and i feel like in a comp i can get into

    00:17:50.990 --> 00:17:54.670

    that headspace or like yeah quite well yeah what's

    00:17:54.670 --> 00:17:58.190

    your mindset on on slab uh i really like slab

    00:17:58.190 --> 00:18:02.549

    but i find slabs in comps quite stressful and

    00:18:02.549 --> 00:18:05.339

    it's something i really want to improve at next

    00:18:05.339 --> 00:18:07.440

    year I think it's one of my main goals because

    00:18:07.440 --> 00:18:10.819

    in training I feel quite confident on slabs and

    00:18:10.819 --> 00:18:15.819

    then I get to the comps and I like think about

    00:18:15.819 --> 00:18:17.680

    the slabs and see the slabs and they make me

    00:18:17.680 --> 00:18:20.359

    so stressed but yeah it's definitely something

    00:18:20.359 --> 00:18:24.640

    I'd like to be able to work on and be able to

    00:18:24.640 --> 00:18:28.079

    show some good slab climbing next year. Is it

    00:18:28.079 --> 00:18:30.880

    like the time pressure or like the number of

    00:18:30.880 --> 00:18:34.250

    attempts that get to you? I think it's A lot

    00:18:34.250 --> 00:18:36.210

    of the time it's the sequence. I don't think

    00:18:36.210 --> 00:18:39.549

    I've ever been the best at like reading sequences

    00:18:39.549 --> 00:18:44.829

    from the ground, especially on slabs. So I like

    00:18:44.829 --> 00:18:51.009

    rely a lot on my intuition on the wall. But and

    00:18:51.009 --> 00:18:54.210

    then if I'm not feeling confident, it's hard

    00:18:54.210 --> 00:18:57.769

    to rely on that. And I think I struggle with

    00:18:57.769 --> 00:19:00.410

    being confident on the slabs in comps. So hopefully

    00:19:00.410 --> 00:19:04.539

    the next season. I can be more confident. Yeah,

    00:19:04.640 --> 00:19:07.099

    I think I'm super bad at reading from the ground

    00:19:07.099 --> 00:19:08.900

    too. Yeah, I find it so hard. That's something

    00:19:08.900 --> 00:19:10.859

    I need to work on. But I don't know how to work

    00:19:10.859 --> 00:19:14.579

    on it. Yeah, it's a tough one. And then sometimes,

    00:19:14.799 --> 00:19:18.079

    like, sometimes I think it's better to use your

    00:19:18.079 --> 00:19:20.339

    intuition. But then other times, like, you need

    00:19:20.339 --> 00:19:23.039

    to have, like, a plan A, a plan B. I don't know.

    00:19:23.039 --> 00:19:25.240

    It's hard to find the balance. How do you feel

    00:19:25.240 --> 00:19:29.019

    about, like, coordination style? I love coordination.

    00:19:29.460 --> 00:19:32.910

    Like, I think it's my favorite. kind of climbing

    00:19:32.910 --> 00:19:35.769

    yeah I really really like it do you have any

    00:19:35.769 --> 00:19:38.589

    tips there for how to figure them out more quickly

    00:19:38.589 --> 00:19:42.569

    I think for coordination a lot of it is like

    00:19:42.569 --> 00:19:46.849

    giving 100 % from the get -go and just committing

    00:19:46.849 --> 00:19:49.930

    like properly and even if it like because if

    00:19:49.930 --> 00:19:52.049

    it doesn't feel good at least you know that you've

    00:19:52.049 --> 00:19:54.630

    given it 100 % and you know it doesn't feel good

    00:19:54.630 --> 00:19:57.450

    that way I think that's really important um because

    00:19:57.450 --> 00:20:01.099

    if you don't commit then you don't know For me,

    00:20:01.180 --> 00:20:03.880

    often with coordination, I think of the position

    00:20:03.880 --> 00:20:06.940

    I want to end up in and then I trust my body

    00:20:06.940 --> 00:20:10.799

    that it's going to get me there and I just give

    00:20:10.799 --> 00:20:14.619

    it my all, I think. One of the comps that you

    00:20:14.619 --> 00:20:17.880

    did the best in was Prague. You ended up being

    00:20:17.880 --> 00:20:20.400

    in a finals position and then the event got rained

    00:20:20.400 --> 00:20:24.640

    out. What was that experience like? Prague was

    00:20:24.640 --> 00:20:28.259

    kind of crazy. Before the qualies, it was an

    00:20:28.259 --> 00:20:32.920

    afternoon qualies, um for my lunch i had some

    00:20:32.920 --> 00:20:35.380

    like i had other stuff but i had some breadsticks

    00:20:35.380 --> 00:20:39.059

    and hummus and it just looked like normal hummus

    00:20:39.059 --> 00:20:41.900

    um i eat hummus all the time i really like it

    00:20:41.900 --> 00:20:47.240

    um and then i ate some and my lips like started

    00:20:47.240 --> 00:20:49.000

    tingling and i was like oh this is really odd

    00:20:49.000 --> 00:20:51.779

    and then i like check the ingredients and i see

    00:20:51.779 --> 00:20:54.019

    that it's like peanut butter hummus and i'm allergic

    00:20:54.019 --> 00:20:58.059

    to peanuts um so then i started to have an allergic

    00:20:58.059 --> 00:21:03.690

    reaction um and this was how bad is it I'm not

    00:21:03.690 --> 00:21:06.450

    anaphylactic so my throat doesn't close up but

    00:21:06.450 --> 00:21:09.609

    I was like getting like hives and yeah and then

    00:21:09.609 --> 00:21:12.750

    my stomach started to hurt and I like took my

    00:21:12.750 --> 00:21:16.329

    pills and everything um my antihistamines um

    00:21:16.329 --> 00:21:20.009

    but it was like just before I headed to ISO I

    00:21:20.009 --> 00:21:23.690

    started to have the reaction um so I was just

    00:21:23.690 --> 00:21:26.589

    there like oh my gosh like what have I done like

    00:21:26.589 --> 00:21:31.799

    this is so bad um But then, I don't know, I went

    00:21:31.799 --> 00:21:34.000

    downstairs, we were going to head off to ISO

    00:21:34.000 --> 00:21:35.460

    and the coaches were just trying to be like,

    00:21:35.519 --> 00:21:36.779

    no, you're okay. Like, they were just trying

    00:21:36.779 --> 00:21:38.900

    to calm me down and, like, they were really good

    00:21:38.900 --> 00:21:42.019

    and, like, really supportive. So then we went

    00:21:42.019 --> 00:21:46.259

    to ISO and then I just, like, I felt so bad at

    00:21:46.259 --> 00:21:49.700

    this point. I just was talking to one of my coaches,

    00:21:49.779 --> 00:21:52.779

    like, I can't do it. Like, I was just, like,

    00:21:52.859 --> 00:21:55.859

    falling, I don't know, I felt sick, I was falling

    00:21:55.859 --> 00:22:00.619

    asleep, it was just everything. um and then we

    00:22:00.619 --> 00:22:05.039

    the it was raining and the comp got postponed

    00:22:05.039 --> 00:22:08.839

    so we got moved to some like museum and then

    00:22:08.839 --> 00:22:10.960

    we were there for a couple hours which was actually

    00:22:10.960 --> 00:22:13.880

    a blessing in disguise for me because I think

    00:22:13.880 --> 00:22:19.400

    um my reaction was like not so good at that time

    00:22:19.400 --> 00:22:22.759

    I was like um I was like going really hot then

    00:22:22.759 --> 00:22:25.259

    really cold then my whole body went red I don't

    00:22:25.259 --> 00:22:29.680

    know it was kind of crazy um So we moved to this

    00:22:29.680 --> 00:22:32.720

    museum for a couple of hours. We went back to

    00:22:32.720 --> 00:22:38.759

    the ISO for the comp. And then I was still like

    00:22:38.759 --> 00:22:40.920

    having the reaction, but it was definitely, it

    00:22:40.920 --> 00:22:42.960

    was like coming in waves and it was definitely

    00:22:42.960 --> 00:22:46.059

    a bit better. But I remember like warming up.

    00:22:46.140 --> 00:22:52.039

    I felt like so, so bad and like awful. But then

    00:22:52.039 --> 00:22:55.660

    the comp went ahead and it was at like 8pm, I

    00:22:55.660 --> 00:23:01.910

    think. um the qualies and uh by the time I actually

    00:23:01.910 --> 00:23:07.009

    got to like call zone for qualies the reaction

    00:23:07.009 --> 00:23:12.170

    had kind of stopped but um I hadn't eaten in

    00:23:12.170 --> 00:23:15.029

    like like since the hummus because I just couldn't

    00:23:15.029 --> 00:23:18.490

    stomach anything so I was I had like no energy

    00:23:18.490 --> 00:23:24.869

    um and yeah I think the coaches were really good

    00:23:24.869 --> 00:23:29.019

    like I was kind of freaking out and like, I'm

    00:23:29.019 --> 00:23:31.799

    not going to make semis. I really want to make

    00:23:31.799 --> 00:23:34.039

    semis. Like, this is all my fault. Like, why

    00:23:34.039 --> 00:23:37.039

    did I eat the hummus? But they were like, no,

    00:23:37.099 --> 00:23:39.019

    you can still make semis. Like your body can

    00:23:39.019 --> 00:23:40.920

    do more than you think, but it doesn't matter.

    00:23:41.079 --> 00:23:43.579

    Like you're doing all that you can do. Yeah.

    00:23:43.700 --> 00:23:48.039

    They were really supportive. And so I did qualities

    00:23:48.039 --> 00:23:52.759

    and I felt like so bad, but I, and then after

    00:23:52.759 --> 00:23:55.509

    qualities. I was like, there's no way I've made

    00:23:55.509 --> 00:23:58.069

    semis. Like, because I only got like two tops

    00:23:58.069 --> 00:24:01.750

    as well. And I was just like, no way. So we walked

    00:24:01.750 --> 00:24:03.890

    back to the hotel and then I just like checked

    00:24:03.890 --> 00:24:06.349

    the results. I was like, oh my gosh, wait, I'm

    00:24:06.349 --> 00:24:10.349

    in semis. And then I was like over the moon.

    00:24:10.450 --> 00:24:12.849

    Like I couldn't believe it. Like I was in semis.

    00:24:12.849 --> 00:24:16.950

    And then semis, we had a rest day in between.

    00:24:17.049 --> 00:24:20.170

    So the allergic reaction was all good by then.

    00:24:20.859 --> 00:24:23.799

    and semis went really really well what about

    00:24:23.799 --> 00:24:28.480

    that semis um went super well for you like was

    00:24:28.480 --> 00:24:31.599

    it just boulders that fit your style better um

    00:24:31.599 --> 00:24:33.339

    I think it was a mixture I think the boulders

    00:24:33.339 --> 00:24:38.359

    really suited me um and I think that uh because

    00:24:38.359 --> 00:24:43.119

    of the whole drama the day before I was just

    00:24:43.119 --> 00:24:45.519

    and because I qualified in the last place as

    00:24:45.519 --> 00:24:47.940

    well I was just like so grateful and happy to

    00:24:47.940 --> 00:24:50.950

    be there that I climbed so freely and I was just

    00:24:50.950 --> 00:24:54.849

    climbing really well I think and then you were

    00:24:54.849 --> 00:24:58.009

    getting ready to like climb in finals afterwards

    00:24:58.009 --> 00:25:02.190

    yeah yeah I guess I don't know the timing for

    00:25:02.190 --> 00:25:04.930

    how it all happened like you were still preparing

    00:25:04.930 --> 00:25:08.069

    for finals did you already start warming up or

    00:25:08.069 --> 00:25:13.509

    um yeah how did that go well so we let me think

    00:25:13.509 --> 00:25:17.250

    for finals yeah so me and Erin arrived and I

    00:25:17.250 --> 00:25:20.579

    say And I think we'd both started our warmup

    00:25:20.579 --> 00:25:25.500

    and then we got told maybe something would like,

    00:25:25.539 --> 00:25:28.720

    maybe it would be delayed a bit. And then I think

    00:25:28.720 --> 00:25:30.940

    we did some games or something. We were doing

    00:25:30.940 --> 00:25:33.119

    like a Harry Potter quiz at some point, I think,

    00:25:33.119 --> 00:25:37.700

    or maybe a friend's quiz. I don't know. But we

    00:25:37.700 --> 00:25:40.480

    definitely started the warmup and then we got

    00:25:40.480 --> 00:25:42.079

    told we were going to go out for presentation

    00:25:42.079 --> 00:25:46.779

    and we like got changed and whatnot. But then

    00:25:46.779 --> 00:25:49.960

    we were told the event was cancelled and we were

    00:25:49.960 --> 00:25:53.319

    just all like, oh my gosh. And it was, yeah,

    00:25:53.420 --> 00:25:55.460

    it was hard. Wait, I thought you were, how did

    00:25:55.460 --> 00:25:57.839

    you do a Harry Potter quiz or like friends quiz

    00:25:57.839 --> 00:26:01.400

    if you're not allowed devices in ISO? Oh, it

    00:26:01.400 --> 00:26:05.119

    was just like, we would think of questions. Oh,

    00:26:05.119 --> 00:26:10.539

    seriously? Yeah. I don't know. I think Aaron

    00:26:10.539 --> 00:26:13.769

    and one of our coaches. are both like quite big

    00:26:13.769 --> 00:26:15.769

    Harry Potter fans so they were like competing

    00:26:15.769 --> 00:26:18.609

    and one of the other coaches was asking questions

    00:26:18.609 --> 00:26:23.529

    okay yeah that's funny huh sounds fun I guess

    00:26:23.529 --> 00:26:26.670

    friends quiz was better I think yeah I was also

    00:26:26.670 --> 00:26:30.410

    a big friends fan um so yeah I guess how did

    00:26:30.410 --> 00:26:32.690

    you feel about not getting to compete in finals

    00:26:32.690 --> 00:26:36.490

    or did you have any feelings about of like nerves

    00:26:36.490 --> 00:26:40.210

    or excitement for finals uh I think for finals

    00:26:40.210 --> 00:26:45.279

    I was like just so excited because i didn't expect

    00:26:45.279 --> 00:26:49.099

    to be in a finals like it was only my third world

    00:26:49.099 --> 00:26:53.400

    cup and especially after qualifying in the last

    00:26:53.400 --> 00:26:58.160

    place being in finals felt crazy um so i was

    00:26:58.160 --> 00:27:02.319

    just so so excited um and then when it was cancelled

    00:27:03.369 --> 00:27:06.789

    i was yeah really upset and i my first thought

    00:27:06.789 --> 00:27:09.910

    was like oh no what if i'd never make a finals

    00:27:09.910 --> 00:27:13.490

    again and it's not like the first thought you

    00:27:13.490 --> 00:27:17.109

    want but um yeah i found it really hard i think

    00:27:17.109 --> 00:27:21.329

    and i think i found um burn world cup quite hard

    00:27:21.329 --> 00:27:27.430

    because i um it was the world cup after and uh

    00:27:27.430 --> 00:27:30.569

    i just like put too much pressure on wanting

    00:27:30.569 --> 00:27:33.940

    to be in the finals again Yeah, I guess pressure

    00:27:33.940 --> 00:27:37.160

    and like expectations is kind of always really

    00:27:37.160 --> 00:27:41.099

    difficult for athletes to work through. How do

    00:27:41.099 --> 00:27:43.180

    you feel about like the mental side of competitive

    00:27:43.180 --> 00:27:45.960

    climbing was another audience question that came

    00:27:45.960 --> 00:27:48.619

    through? Yeah, I think the mental side is something

    00:27:48.619 --> 00:27:51.740

    that I still need to work on quite a lot because

    00:27:51.740 --> 00:27:56.720

    I think it's really important. And I think being

    00:27:56.720 --> 00:27:59.240

    confident is really important in competition

    00:27:59.240 --> 00:28:05.440

    climbing, especially. But I think I've never

    00:28:05.440 --> 00:28:09.319

    seen like a sports psychologist or anything.

    00:28:09.559 --> 00:28:12.059

    I think it's definitely something I might look

    00:28:12.059 --> 00:28:13.980

    into before next season because I think it'd

    00:28:13.980 --> 00:28:16.140

    be really useful. Is there anything thinking

    00:28:16.140 --> 00:28:19.339

    back on your performance in Burn that you would

    00:28:19.339 --> 00:28:23.579

    have wanted to change? I think I wish I could

    00:28:23.579 --> 00:28:27.059

    have enjoyed the semifinal more. I think it's

    00:28:27.059 --> 00:28:29.500

    kind of silly because I'd only made like one

    00:28:29.500 --> 00:28:33.650

    final. but just because it was cancelled i found

    00:28:33.650 --> 00:28:36.950

    it quite hard to enjoy it because i was only

    00:28:36.950 --> 00:28:40.349

    thinking about making the final and rather than

    00:28:40.349 --> 00:28:43.269

    like uh being grateful for being in the semis

    00:28:43.269 --> 00:28:47.349

    and like being present on the boulders um yeah

    00:28:47.349 --> 00:28:50.150

    i wish i'd enjoyed that more because i think

    00:28:50.150 --> 00:28:54.369

    for me i climb my best when i'm like happy and

    00:28:54.369 --> 00:28:57.589

    yeah I guess like what were your thoughts during

    00:28:57.589 --> 00:29:00.670

    the semis on each boulder? Because I feel like

    00:29:00.670 --> 00:29:04.329

    personally for me, I mean, I've never done any

    00:29:04.329 --> 00:29:06.450

    competitions where there's like an ISO format,

    00:29:06.509 --> 00:29:09.869

    but during competitions, I am thinking pretty

    00:29:09.869 --> 00:29:13.170

    hard about like where, what boulders other people

    00:29:13.170 --> 00:29:15.809

    are doing versus ones I haven't done. Is that

    00:29:15.809 --> 00:29:18.490

    kind of what you mean when it comes to getting

    00:29:18.490 --> 00:29:20.490

    in your head during competitions when you're

    00:29:20.490 --> 00:29:23.250

    trying to think about getting into finals? I

    00:29:23.250 --> 00:29:26.990

    think kind of the comps where it or the rounds

    00:29:26.990 --> 00:29:29.269

    where I think it's going the best I end up not

    00:29:29.269 --> 00:29:32.349

    thinking about the external factors and stuff

    00:29:32.349 --> 00:29:38.490

    I can't control um but sometimes yeah I do I

    00:29:38.490 --> 00:29:42.089

    had like in the past I've definitely thought

    00:29:42.089 --> 00:29:44.509

    some of those things like if someone tops a boulder

    00:29:44.509 --> 00:29:47.730

    next to you rather than like being concentrated

    00:29:47.730 --> 00:29:50.410

    on my boulder my mind's going to that and I think

    00:29:51.069 --> 00:29:54.670

    Yeah, it's hard sometimes. And then, oh, do you

    00:29:54.670 --> 00:29:57.150

    get prize money from being in fifth place at

    00:29:57.150 --> 00:29:59.630

    prom? If you're interested in ad -free episodes

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    00:30:02.069 --> 00:30:04.130

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    00:30:04.130 --> 00:30:07.329

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    other perks include a membership pin shipped

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    to you after two months, prioritized guest questions,

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    help out non -monetarily, liking, commenting,

    00:30:28.880 --> 00:30:31.740

    and sharing helps a great deal as well. Back

    00:30:31.740 --> 00:30:34.339

    to the show. Yes, I did actually. I think I got

    00:30:34.339 --> 00:30:39.200

    1 .5k, which is quite good. Oh wait, that's not

    00:30:39.200 --> 00:30:42.279

    bad. Maybe like 1 ,300 euros actually. I'm not

    00:30:42.279 --> 00:30:46.680

    sure. But I think it was one of the good tiers

    00:30:46.680 --> 00:30:48.910

    for... prize money like i think there's like

    00:30:48.910 --> 00:30:52.029

    a silver platinum or something like that i think

    00:30:52.029 --> 00:30:54.769

    burn was high prize money too oh there's like

    00:30:54.769 --> 00:30:58.410

    differences between each world cup yeah prague

    00:30:58.410 --> 00:31:02.049

    and burn were higher prize money than other world

    00:31:02.049 --> 00:31:05.130

    cups i think oh i didn't know that yeah i heard

    00:31:05.130 --> 00:31:07.970

    like for some world cups the like even first

    00:31:07.970 --> 00:31:10.529

    place only gets like 2000 or something like that

    00:31:10.529 --> 00:31:15.059

    yeah i think so usually it's I think Burn was

    00:31:15.059 --> 00:31:20.160

    double what some other World Cups were. I mean,

    00:31:20.200 --> 00:31:22.500

    I could be wrong. Like, I don't want to spread

    00:31:22.500 --> 00:31:24.980

    false information. No, that's interesting. Yeah.

    00:31:25.339 --> 00:31:30.619

    I think it depends on maybe the individual host,

    00:31:30.880 --> 00:31:33.500

    I guess. I think so. Federation. A little. I'm

    00:31:33.500 --> 00:31:35.960

    not sure. Yeah, I didn't know there was so much

    00:31:35.960 --> 00:31:38.920

    difference between different comps, though. That's

    00:31:38.920 --> 00:31:42.880

    interesting. um and then another like general

    00:31:42.880 --> 00:31:45.259

    question I think you're kind of one of the slightly

    00:31:45.259 --> 00:31:49.400

    taller athletes yeah um yeah do you like remember

    00:31:49.400 --> 00:31:52.079

    that ever playing to your advantage or disadvantage

    00:31:52.079 --> 00:31:55.220

    at all during the season uh I think yeah it has

    00:31:55.220 --> 00:31:58.700

    its advantages and disadvantages definitely um

    00:31:58.700 --> 00:32:02.059

    some coordinations I think easier if you're taller

    00:32:02.059 --> 00:32:06.200

    um but also there was definitely some boulders

    00:32:06.200 --> 00:32:12.230

    this season that I found hard because of well

    00:32:12.230 --> 00:32:15.750

    it's not because of like it's something I need

    00:32:15.750 --> 00:32:19.869

    to work on um but there are definitely some small

    00:32:19.869 --> 00:32:24.569

    boxes this year that I could like train to fit

    00:32:24.569 --> 00:32:28.009

    in better I think what kind of moves are harder

    00:32:28.009 --> 00:32:32.210

    for you as a taller athlete uh I think like bunched

    00:32:32.210 --> 00:32:35.750

    positions I find quite hard um and like getting

    00:32:35.750 --> 00:32:39.579

    in and out of small boxes um based like it's

    00:32:39.579 --> 00:32:43.200

    something i can work on so just need to get my

    00:32:43.200 --> 00:32:46.700

    middle spirits yeah more stretching yeah yeah

    00:32:46.700 --> 00:32:50.180

    um so now getting a little bit into gb climbing

    00:32:50.180 --> 00:32:53.200

    um i feel like specifically the past couple years

    00:32:53.200 --> 00:32:56.299

    have been kind of crazy for team gb um almost

    00:32:56.299 --> 00:32:58.220

    seems like it came out of nowhere a little bit

    00:32:58.220 --> 00:33:02.359

    um what do you feel like it is that contributed

    00:33:02.359 --> 00:33:05.319

    to that is it like inspirational past athletes

    00:33:05.319 --> 00:33:10.019

    like having Shauna as like a um I don't know

    00:33:10.019 --> 00:33:12.079

    what's the word like idol or someone to look

    00:33:12.079 --> 00:33:15.440

    up to or is there like good gym density or what

    00:33:15.440 --> 00:33:18.000

    do you think contributes to it yeah I think the

    00:33:18.000 --> 00:33:21.099

    team's definitely transitioned a lot in the past

    00:33:21.099 --> 00:33:26.240

    couple years um and everyone is doing so well

    00:33:26.240 --> 00:33:29.880

    it's crazy I think, yeah, it's really useful

    00:33:29.880 --> 00:33:32.220

    to have like Shauna and people like that to look

    00:33:32.220 --> 00:33:38.319

    up to. But I think it's just, I don't know, I

    00:33:38.319 --> 00:33:40.740

    just think everyone is working really hard and

    00:33:40.740 --> 00:33:43.180

    everyone is looking around and you see all these

    00:33:43.180 --> 00:33:47.059

    people working hard. And yeah, it's really cool

    00:33:47.059 --> 00:33:50.259

    to be surrounded by really strong climbers at

    00:33:50.259 --> 00:33:53.180

    the World Cups. Is it because you guys don't

    00:33:53.180 --> 00:33:55.619

    even have like a national training center or

    00:33:55.619 --> 00:34:02.079

    anything? No, no. um so we used to have a training

    00:34:02.079 --> 00:34:09.880

    center um but it wasn't amazing uh and then last

    00:34:09.880 --> 00:34:13.460

    year i think a lot of the guys especially really

    00:34:13.460 --> 00:34:17.199

    struggled with getting on world cup level or

    00:34:17.199 --> 00:34:20.989

    style boulders um because a lot of the stuff

    00:34:20.989 --> 00:34:23.750

    you just can't set in a commercial gym and they

    00:34:23.750 --> 00:34:27.050

    just wouldn't set hard enough for the guys so

    00:34:27.050 --> 00:34:29.769

    this year um we've managed to get a bit more

    00:34:29.769 --> 00:34:34.630

    support and instead of having a training center

    00:34:34.630 --> 00:34:41.670

    GB decided to have to use some money to set uh

    00:34:41.670 --> 00:34:44.969

    climbs in depot climbing centers i don't know

    00:34:44.969 --> 00:34:46.949

    they're quite a big climbing chain in the uk

    00:34:46.949 --> 00:34:51.429

    so now we've got these project boulders up at

    00:34:51.429 --> 00:34:55.030

    different centers across the country and i think

    00:34:55.030 --> 00:34:58.250

    it's really really good and yeah it's useful

    00:34:58.250 --> 00:35:03.250

    i guess it's surprising to hear that um the team

    00:35:03.250 --> 00:35:05.070

    was struggling with having hard enough boulders

    00:35:05.070 --> 00:35:07.969

    set before because I think everyone was doing

    00:35:07.969 --> 00:35:11.969

    super well last year as well. Even on the men's

    00:35:11.969 --> 00:35:17.150

    side, you had Toby and Max and Diane and so many

    00:35:17.150 --> 00:35:20.190

    strong people. So it's surprising to hear. All

    00:35:20.190 --> 00:35:22.570

    of that was just on commercial sets and spray

    00:35:22.570 --> 00:35:25.650

    walling? I think a lot on the spray wall and

    00:35:25.650 --> 00:35:29.289

    a lot on the woody board, for sure. But also

    00:35:29.289 --> 00:35:31.610

    when they would all train together, they would

    00:35:31.610 --> 00:35:35.659

    make up a lot of moves. just like push each other

    00:35:35.659 --> 00:35:37.599

    a lot they would always do like slab eliminates

    00:35:37.599 --> 00:35:41.280

    and do everything they can to practice the world

    00:35:41.280 --> 00:35:43.460

    cup style without having the world cup boulders

    00:35:43.460 --> 00:35:46.400

    and i think them training with each other they

    00:35:46.400 --> 00:35:48.639

    pushed each other really hard and that was really

    00:35:48.639 --> 00:35:53.119

    good okay yeah what about like um on the female

    00:35:53.119 --> 00:35:55.059

    side like do you feel like the setting at commercial

    00:35:55.059 --> 00:35:58.860

    gyms is decent enough to train on for you guys

    00:35:58.860 --> 00:36:08.159

    um i think it physically it's okay um like if

    00:36:08.159 --> 00:36:11.699

    you make your way around enough centers you can

    00:36:11.699 --> 00:36:14.460

    definitely get enough physical boulders but i

    00:36:14.460 --> 00:36:16.639

    think a lot of them aren't in the world cup style

    00:36:16.639 --> 00:36:20.639

    um it's more just like it's kind of quite basic

    00:36:20.639 --> 00:36:24.199

    a lot of the climbing um but with the new mint

    00:36:24.199 --> 00:36:27.340

    boulders with the collaboration between gb and

    00:36:27.340 --> 00:36:30.989

    depot it's really good and we've got like world

    00:36:30.989 --> 00:36:35.130

    cup style holds and world cup style setting and

    00:36:35.130 --> 00:36:37.809

    the right level so it's been really really useful

    00:36:37.809 --> 00:36:41.969

    yeah i guess for a lot of people who well i would

    00:36:41.969 --> 00:36:43.989

    say most people don't get the chance to experience

    00:36:43.989 --> 00:36:45.789

    the difference between like world cup setting

    00:36:45.789 --> 00:36:49.070

    and commercial setting um how would you describe

    00:36:49.070 --> 00:36:52.929

    the difference and what it feels like i think

    00:36:52.929 --> 00:36:58.099

    world cup boulders are usually um like more dynamic

    00:36:58.099 --> 00:37:00.980

    and harder to read sometimes like you have like

    00:37:00.980 --> 00:37:03.780

    multiple options and sometimes you have to pick

    00:37:03.780 --> 00:37:07.719

    between options and also you just get like bigger

    00:37:07.719 --> 00:37:11.320

    moves and slabs just take up the whole panel

    00:37:11.320 --> 00:37:15.300

    and in a commercial center it's hard to like

    00:37:15.300 --> 00:37:18.840

    you can't really set like that so it's hard to

    00:37:18.840 --> 00:37:22.079

    get exposure on the world cup style slabs when

    00:37:22.079 --> 00:37:25.960

    yeah you don't have them Yeah, I guess I've seen

    00:37:25.960 --> 00:37:29.940

    a decent amount of commercial sets just because

    00:37:29.940 --> 00:37:33.639

    through YouTube videos that Aaron or Toby post.

    00:37:33.739 --> 00:37:38.760

    I feel like I see pretty interesting, at least

    00:37:38.760 --> 00:37:40.940

    dynamic boulders. Do you feel like the dynamic

    00:37:40.940 --> 00:37:43.380

    boulders compare at all to World Cup boulders?

    00:37:43.860 --> 00:37:47.159

    Yeah, I think occasionally we do get some really

    00:37:47.159 --> 00:37:51.139

    good dynamic boulders, but compared to some other

    00:37:51.139 --> 00:37:54.159

    nations, maybe we don't get enough of them. Or

    00:37:54.159 --> 00:37:57.199

    we'll get one a month and it'll be really good,

    00:37:57.340 --> 00:37:59.900

    but then we won't get another one for another

    00:37:59.900 --> 00:38:02.900

    month. But I think it's changing a lot now, which

    00:38:02.900 --> 00:38:05.340

    is really nice to see. Yeah, I think it's just

    00:38:05.340 --> 00:38:07.059

    from the videos. I feel like you guys have a

    00:38:07.059 --> 00:38:09.500

    lot of fun comp style setting. But it's hard

    00:38:09.500 --> 00:38:12.940

    to tell just from videos. Yeah. Speaking of which,

    00:38:13.000 --> 00:38:15.360

    I feel like British people have always been killing

    00:38:15.360 --> 00:38:18.019

    it in the YouTube scene. I don't know why. Yeah,

    00:38:18.039 --> 00:38:20.139

    there is a lot of British YouTubers, I think.

    00:38:20.619 --> 00:38:23.119

    Back in the day, like, there was a whole, like,

    00:38:23.139 --> 00:38:27.340

    vlog squad on YouTube. Oh, like Zamala? Yeah.

    00:38:27.900 --> 00:38:30.000

    Oh, really? No, I'm talking about that too, yeah.

    00:38:30.079 --> 00:38:31.840

    Oh, okay. Oh, I love it. Do you watch her videos

    00:38:31.840 --> 00:38:35.500

    now? No, I just saw that she started, like, posting

    00:38:35.500 --> 00:38:37.840

    videos again. Yeah, oh, I've started watching

    00:38:37.840 --> 00:38:40.500

    them again. I love them. I don't know, it, like,

    00:38:40.500 --> 00:38:44.320

    brings me right back to 2016. Yeah. Yeah, it's

    00:38:44.320 --> 00:38:46.900

    so interesting. It's just, like, I don't know,

    00:38:46.920 --> 00:38:49.500

    ever since YouTube started, it's been very, like...

    00:38:49.690 --> 00:38:52.429

    british focus yeah there are a lot of british

    00:38:52.429 --> 00:38:54.869

    youtubers to be fair it's interesting did she

    00:38:54.869 --> 00:38:58.150

    just start posting again or was she posting the

    00:38:58.150 --> 00:39:00.090

    whole time but people weren't watching i'm not

    00:39:00.090 --> 00:39:02.829

    sure maybe she was i hadn't watched her since

    00:39:02.829 --> 00:39:08.289

    like 2016 um but then a couple years ago when

    00:39:08.289 --> 00:39:13.409

    she had otty or otterly uh one of her kids wait

    00:39:13.409 --> 00:39:16.199

    what is that Oh my god, she has kids now? Yeah,

    00:39:16.239 --> 00:39:18.380

    she has two children. It's insane. Oh my god,

    00:39:18.420 --> 00:39:20.880

    I had no idea. And her dog is still around, Nala.

    00:39:21.119 --> 00:39:25.280

    Oh yeah, wow. I've been watching her recently.

    00:39:25.380 --> 00:39:27.500

    She posted like Christmas and her kids are so

    00:39:27.500 --> 00:39:30.679

    cute. I'll have to take a look. Yeah, they were

    00:39:30.679 --> 00:39:34.780

    so cute. It was wholesome times. Yeah, no, 2016

    00:39:34.780 --> 00:39:37.829

    was a good year. But anyway, I guess back to

    00:39:37.829 --> 00:39:41.070

    the climbing portion. Yeah, a lot of British

    00:39:41.070 --> 00:39:43.469

    YouTube climbers as well. So that's interesting

    00:39:43.469 --> 00:39:47.550

    to see. Another audience question that came through,

    00:39:47.769 --> 00:39:52.010

    it felt like you also burst onto the climbing

    00:39:52.010 --> 00:39:55.570

    scene. Do you have a similar feeling about that?

    00:39:55.769 --> 00:39:58.090

    Like, do you kind of feel like it was a slow

    00:39:58.090 --> 00:40:01.530

    build or did you feel like you did a lot better

    00:40:01.530 --> 00:40:04.590

    than you expected this season? No, I think I

    00:40:04.590 --> 00:40:08.269

    did do... um better than expected this season

    00:40:08.269 --> 00:40:10.750

    um because obviously and obviously I didn't do

    00:40:10.750 --> 00:40:14.570

    world cups the previous season um because we

    00:40:14.570 --> 00:40:17.530

    didn't have that many spots and I wasn't at the

    00:40:17.530 --> 00:40:21.070

    level to get one of the like two spots we had

    00:40:21.070 --> 00:40:26.829

    I think um but I think definitely like over the

    00:40:26.829 --> 00:40:31.409

    years I've um improved but this year was definitely

    00:40:31.409 --> 00:40:35.150

    my biggest like jump I think Yeah, I guess from

    00:40:35.150 --> 00:40:37.769

    the audience perspective, it was kind of like

    00:40:37.769 --> 00:40:43.769

    you just showed up in semis and no one had heard

    00:40:43.769 --> 00:40:46.030

    of you before because most people don't watch

    00:40:46.030 --> 00:40:49.050

    like youth climbing. Yeah. A lot of people don't

    00:40:49.050 --> 00:40:53.030

    watch like the European cups either. And so you

    00:40:53.030 --> 00:40:55.469

    kind of just like showed up and did pretty well.

    00:40:56.389 --> 00:41:00.070

    And so I'm assuming people are probably kind

    00:41:00.070 --> 00:41:03.670

    of wondering, like, did you. kind of know that

    00:41:03.670 --> 00:41:06.670

    your level was up there or did you feel like

    00:41:06.670 --> 00:41:10.250

    um you were competing at a different level the

    00:41:10.250 --> 00:41:13.469

    previous season um i'd started to get like good

    00:41:13.469 --> 00:41:17.090

    youth results um and i won the european youth

    00:41:17.090 --> 00:41:20.429

    championships at the end of that year um and

    00:41:20.429 --> 00:41:23.829

    then i really wanted to make it to the world

    00:41:23.829 --> 00:41:29.309

    cup team for the 2025 season um and then before

    00:41:29.309 --> 00:41:33.550

    the season we had um the British Championships

    00:41:33.550 --> 00:41:41.670

    where I came second but I didn't know like I

    00:41:41.670 --> 00:41:44.889

    knew that Erin was at a really high level but

    00:41:44.889 --> 00:41:48.429

    she was like she's yeah she was really strong

    00:41:48.429 --> 00:41:52.989

    and I didn't really have like a gauge of what

    00:41:52.989 --> 00:42:01.650

    level I was at but yeah and I think um yeah i

    00:42:01.650 --> 00:42:04.969

    found it like going into kachow i found it hard

    00:42:04.969 --> 00:42:09.630

    not really knowing where i was at um i don't

    00:42:09.630 --> 00:42:12.510

    know like i got a lot stronger and i felt a lot

    00:42:12.510 --> 00:42:15.909

    stronger but yeah yeah so i guess going back

    00:42:15.909 --> 00:42:18.469

    into climbing in the commercial gym scene in

    00:42:18.469 --> 00:42:22.590

    the uk um what is the uk like climbing culture

    00:42:22.590 --> 00:42:25.050

    like since i feel like you guys also have a lot

    00:42:25.050 --> 00:42:28.969

    of gyms around yeah yeah i think on the whole

    00:42:28.969 --> 00:42:34.170

    it's really good and i really like going to like

    00:42:34.170 --> 00:42:36.730

    my local gym and seeing everyone there there's

    00:42:36.730 --> 00:42:40.730

    like a bit of a crew on the wooden board and

    00:42:40.730 --> 00:42:44.530

    they're like all so supportive and yeah i think

    00:42:44.530 --> 00:42:47.429

    on the whole the culture is nice but definitely

    00:42:47.429 --> 00:42:53.369

    um there's definitely negative sides to it and

    00:42:53.369 --> 00:43:00.059

    sometimes uh like I find a lot of the gyms are

    00:43:00.059 --> 00:43:02.840

    still quite male dominated or like the training

    00:43:02.840 --> 00:43:07.980

    spaces can be quite male dominated um and I find

    00:43:07.980 --> 00:43:10.639

    it okay I think now because I'm like confident

    00:43:10.639 --> 00:43:14.840

    within myself and yeah but I definitely found

    00:43:14.840 --> 00:43:18.219

    it kind of hard growing up sometimes with that

    00:43:18.219 --> 00:43:22.380

    male dominated space hmm interesting I guess

    00:43:22.380 --> 00:43:25.039

    like what like i don't know what do you feel

    00:43:25.039 --> 00:43:29.340

    like that came with um just sometimes like when

    00:43:29.340 --> 00:43:32.860

    i was younger i mean it happens now but um i

    00:43:32.860 --> 00:43:36.639

    just don't let it bother me really but it's just

    00:43:36.639 --> 00:43:40.199

    like i would go on a climb and let's say some

    00:43:40.199 --> 00:43:42.579

    guy was on the climb as well and i would like

    00:43:42.579 --> 00:43:47.000

    flash the climb and then they'll just like make

    00:43:47.000 --> 00:43:49.699

    a comment or say like oh, like if I was as light

    00:43:49.699 --> 00:43:52.320

    as you, I'd do that climb. And I was just like,

    00:43:52.519 --> 00:43:58.219

    no, no, no. I remember one time I was doing like

    00:43:58.219 --> 00:44:00.500

    one arm of training and then a guy said to me

    00:44:00.500 --> 00:44:02.619

    like, oh, like how light do you have to be to

    00:44:02.619 --> 00:44:04.599

    be able to do that? And I was just like, no,

    00:44:04.760 --> 00:44:09.260

    like, no. I don't know. Just like, yeah. I've

    00:44:09.260 --> 00:44:12.119

    heard people like talk about that on like Reddit

    00:44:12.119 --> 00:44:13.980

    before, but it's never actually happened to me

    00:44:13.980 --> 00:44:19.250

    before. No, yeah. And I'm like very, like stickly

    00:44:19.250 --> 00:44:22.550

    so I guess I'm surprised that no one's ever said

    00:44:22.550 --> 00:44:25.329

    it to me but yeah did you have like a response

    00:44:25.329 --> 00:44:28.329

    for that or did you just walk away I think I

    00:44:28.329 --> 00:44:30.909

    just kind of ignored it like didn't give it the

    00:44:30.909 --> 00:44:32.889

    time of day yeah I'm just trying to think if

    00:44:32.889 --> 00:44:34.869

    like anything weird has happened to me I know

    00:44:34.869 --> 00:44:37.869

    people have mentioned like or sometimes I kind

    00:44:37.869 --> 00:44:40.269

    of get the feeling that I'll come off of a climb

    00:44:40.269 --> 00:44:44.670

    and then they'll like try it oh my gosh they

    00:44:44.670 --> 00:44:46.889

    got when the guys see you on the climb and they

    00:44:47.900 --> 00:44:51.380

    yeah that's the most annoying thing yeah i get

    00:44:51.380 --> 00:44:55.320

    it all the time like i'll be on like v i don't

    00:44:55.320 --> 00:44:58.280

    know like v9 or v10 or whatever and they'll be

    00:44:58.280 --> 00:45:01.039

    on like a v3 and then they'll suddenly i don't

    00:45:01.039 --> 00:45:03.400

    know i'm all for like people coming to train

    00:45:03.400 --> 00:45:05.420

    with me and like trying the same climbs as me

    00:45:05.420 --> 00:45:07.460

    like i think that's great like and like pushing

    00:45:07.460 --> 00:45:11.059

    yourself on climbs that are like too hard for

    00:45:11.059 --> 00:45:15.239

    you um But when they're on like a V3 and they

    00:45:15.239 --> 00:45:18.679

    see a female on a hard climb and then try to

    00:45:18.679 --> 00:45:22.380

    pull on, it's just like, oh my gosh. Yeah. Yeah.

    00:45:22.440 --> 00:45:24.679

    But I mean, at least they can try it and then

    00:45:24.679 --> 00:45:27.280

    see that it's not so simple. Yeah. Yeah. Have

    00:45:27.280 --> 00:45:29.630

    you ever had them like... I don't know the other

    00:45:29.630 --> 00:45:32.789

    day I was on this board climb and this guy came

    00:45:32.789 --> 00:45:35.489

    over from another area of the board because he

    00:45:35.489 --> 00:45:38.030

    saw me on this climb and he like tried to pull

    00:45:38.030 --> 00:45:40.250

    on like couldn't pull on tried to do the first

    00:45:40.250 --> 00:45:41.849

    move couldn't do the first two and then he like

    00:45:41.849 --> 00:45:44.070

    walked away like holding his back and I was like

    00:45:44.070 --> 00:45:48.590

    oh okay okay that doesn't happen to me as often

    00:45:48.590 --> 00:45:50.489

    because I don't think I'm climbing things that

    00:45:50.489 --> 00:45:54.610

    are as hard um but well actually I don't know

    00:45:54.610 --> 00:45:57.789

    maybe the culture is pretty good because if that

    00:45:58.139 --> 00:46:01.239

    does happen a lot of times i mean i feel like

    00:46:01.239 --> 00:46:02.760

    a lot of times they'll just be watching from

    00:46:02.760 --> 00:46:06.440

    afar and then if i send it or don't they'll just

    00:46:06.440 --> 00:46:09.760

    talk about like how hard it looked or that or

    00:46:09.760 --> 00:46:11.360

    like a lot of times they'll be like oh i could

    00:46:11.360 --> 00:46:15.000

    like never do that so yeah maybe the culture

    00:46:15.000 --> 00:46:19.360

    here is just a bit more nice at least vocally

    00:46:19.360 --> 00:46:21.119

    i don't know what they're thinking inside their

    00:46:21.119 --> 00:46:24.639

    heads um but yeah that's unfortunate that it's

    00:46:24.639 --> 00:46:27.000

    still kind of like that but hopefully maybe it'll

    00:46:27.000 --> 00:46:31.900

    shift yeah I think like recently I think we're

    00:46:31.900 --> 00:46:34.639

    seeing a lot more women in the gym and I think

    00:46:34.639 --> 00:46:37.079

    like 90 % of the guys you meet in a carnival

    00:46:37.079 --> 00:46:40.500

    are lovely and are so supportive um but there's

    00:46:40.500 --> 00:46:45.059

    definitely still a bit of that around yeah um

    00:46:45.059 --> 00:46:50.360

    so then outside of climbing or like uh competition

    00:46:50.360 --> 00:46:54.550

    climbing a bit um do you get much time to climb

    00:46:54.550 --> 00:46:58.630

    outside or does it interest you at all uh I yeah

    00:46:58.630 --> 00:47:02.670

    I've I do have a lot of time now to be fair because

    00:47:02.670 --> 00:47:06.409

    I'm not in uni anymore um but just with training

    00:47:06.409 --> 00:47:10.329

    uh I don't have so much time or like skin I guess

    00:47:10.329 --> 00:47:13.349

    to climb outside but I really enjoy it and I

    00:47:13.349 --> 00:47:16.050

    would love to get out more do you have any like

    00:47:16.050 --> 00:47:18.530

    projects in mind or is it just like you really

    00:47:18.530 --> 00:47:20.389

    don't have the time to even think about it right

    00:47:20.389 --> 00:47:23.519

    now I've not thought about it like properly but

    00:47:23.519 --> 00:47:27.300

    um i do want to go try i don't know if you've

    00:47:27.300 --> 00:47:30.940

    heard of the joker or and the ace they're like

    00:47:30.940 --> 00:47:34.820

    it's an 8a and an 8b at stanage uh in the peak

    00:47:34.820 --> 00:47:38.199

    district of that area oh i i guess in the peak

    00:47:38.199 --> 00:47:41.860

    district yeah but i'm like very not outdoor climbing

    00:47:41.860 --> 00:47:45.739

    yeah no no don't worry um no there's there's

    00:47:45.739 --> 00:47:48.280

    a couple like peak district classics that i want

    00:47:48.280 --> 00:47:54.110

    to try um but Other than that, I've not, yeah,

    00:47:54.250 --> 00:47:57.030

    I've not really thought about it, but I would

    00:47:57.030 --> 00:47:59.469

    love to go outdoors more. I mean, fine by me.

    00:47:59.530 --> 00:48:02.949

    I love competitions. That's all I want to talk

    00:48:02.949 --> 00:48:06.789

    about. You mentioned that you aren't doing university

    00:48:06.789 --> 00:48:09.889

    this year, but I guess, were you doing it before?

    00:48:10.349 --> 00:48:15.949

    Yeah. So I did my end of school exams and then

    00:48:15.949 --> 00:48:19.449

    I took a gap year. And then I started uni in

    00:48:19.449 --> 00:48:26.389

    Leeds and I was studying biology. And then that

    00:48:26.389 --> 00:48:31.750

    was until I was in first year. And then earlier

    00:48:31.750 --> 00:48:37.030

    on this year, I decided to drop out. And I want

    00:48:37.030 --> 00:48:40.190

    to go back, but I just want to focus solely on

    00:48:40.190 --> 00:48:42.329

    the climbing for now, I think. I think in the

    00:48:42.329 --> 00:48:46.150

    UK, it's quite hard to do both or do both well,

    00:48:46.269 --> 00:48:48.860

    in my opinion. yeah that makes sense and I guess

    00:48:48.860 --> 00:48:51.940

    you can always go back at some point yeah I think

    00:48:51.940 --> 00:48:54.159

    my thing I don't know it was hard because I've

    00:48:54.159 --> 00:48:55.980

    always been like really academic and really liked

    00:48:55.980 --> 00:49:00.159

    school but my thinking was that I can go to uni

    00:49:00.159 --> 00:49:02.800

    anytime and you can only be a comp climber at

    00:49:02.800 --> 00:49:05.079

    like one time in your life really I don't know

    00:49:05.079 --> 00:49:08.780

    or not only but I don't know like there's a limit

    00:49:08.780 --> 00:49:11.280

    on comp climbing and you can go to uni anytime

    00:49:11.679 --> 00:49:14.719

    Yeah, you got to take advantage of your working

    00:49:14.719 --> 00:49:17.139

    body when you're young, I guess, is what I think.

    00:49:18.199 --> 00:49:21.039

    No, I think I follow a similar thing. Like I

    00:49:21.039 --> 00:49:24.420

    should do all of the crazy sports that I can

    00:49:24.420 --> 00:49:27.739

    now and then save. No, definitely. Yeah, save

    00:49:27.739 --> 00:49:30.360

    the sedentary hobbies for later. Like I have

    00:49:30.360 --> 00:49:32.280

    a whole plan of like what I'm going to do once

    00:49:32.280 --> 00:49:34.760

    I can't move anymore. I feel like a lot of my

    00:49:34.760 --> 00:49:38.679

    hobbies are the... when you can't move hobbies

    00:49:38.679 --> 00:49:41.380

    to be fair like I love like a crossword or something

    00:49:41.380 --> 00:49:44.940

    but okay yeah well what what else do you like

    00:49:44.940 --> 00:49:48.940

    to do without using your body uh I really like

    00:49:48.940 --> 00:49:53.940

    baking uh bake quite a lot uh yeah baking crosswords

    00:49:53.940 --> 00:49:56.599

    crosswords interesting well what do you like

    00:49:56.599 --> 00:49:59.000

    to bake one of my favorite bakes is like this

    00:49:59.000 --> 00:50:01.840

    passion fruitcake I've made that's really good

    00:50:01.840 --> 00:50:06.199

    um and then I think just a lot of cakes, to be

    00:50:06.199 --> 00:50:08.260

    honest. I make a good chocolate and strawberry

    00:50:08.260 --> 00:50:11.980

    cake too. Do you also do the decorating or just

    00:50:11.980 --> 00:50:15.340

    the cake making part? Yeah, both. Cake decorating

    00:50:15.340 --> 00:50:18.880

    is going to be one of my sedentary hobbies one

    00:50:18.880 --> 00:50:21.860

    day in the future. Yeah, it's a good one. Do

    00:50:21.860 --> 00:50:26.360

    you do extravagant decorations? No, I'm not that

    00:50:26.360 --> 00:50:29.389

    good. I'm just like, let's do it for fun. Yeah,

    00:50:29.389 --> 00:50:32.110

    no, that's a fun one. I'm excited to do that.

    00:50:32.670 --> 00:50:36.610

    Back when you were still studying and doing climbing

    00:50:36.610 --> 00:50:39.030

    at the same time, what did that balance look

    00:50:39.030 --> 00:50:44.849

    like? I think it was quite hard, especially so

    00:50:44.849 --> 00:50:49.849

    when I was doing my end of school exams in my

    00:50:49.849 --> 00:50:53.210

    school, we do like A -levels in the UK in your

    00:50:53.210 --> 00:50:56.989

    last two years of school. so you pick three subjects

    00:50:56.989 --> 00:51:00.829

    and you do them i was doing maths chemistry biology

    00:51:00.829 --> 00:51:05.650

    um and in my school we had to be in school full

    00:51:05.650 --> 00:51:11.349

    time and um like nine till four or whatever and

    00:51:11.349 --> 00:51:13.670

    then i had training as well and i found that

    00:51:13.670 --> 00:51:16.690

    hard but also i wasn't training as much as i

    00:51:16.690 --> 00:51:20.250

    do now um and then during the gap year obviously

    00:51:20.250 --> 00:51:22.969

    it was fine and then when i went back to uni

    00:51:22.969 --> 00:51:26.969

    or when i went to uni I found it like really

    00:51:26.969 --> 00:51:30.670

    really hard because I was training to try to

    00:51:30.670 --> 00:51:33.309

    get on world cup team like six days a week and

    00:51:33.309 --> 00:51:36.309

    then yeah I was in uni like four days a week

    00:51:36.309 --> 00:51:40.389

    and it was hard with like some lectures would

    00:51:40.389 --> 00:51:46.909

    just be timed so badly and yeah it was not like

    00:51:46.909 --> 00:51:49.929

    sustainable I was like so tired all the time

    00:51:49.929 --> 00:51:52.610

    and I was like missing lectures like missing

    00:51:52.610 --> 00:51:55.349

    parts of training and it was like not good how

    00:51:55.349 --> 00:51:59.929

    many hours a day were you doing training uh maybe

    00:51:59.929 --> 00:52:05.550

    like six I would say um I very much like prioritized

    00:52:05.550 --> 00:52:09.719

    the training over the uni like um i would do

    00:52:09.719 --> 00:52:11.980

    my lectures but a lot of them were online and

    00:52:11.980 --> 00:52:14.619

    i would i was on like the sports scholarship

    00:52:14.619 --> 00:52:20.179

    thing so i could do i like spoke to my um supervisor

    00:52:20.179 --> 00:52:23.239

    and whatnot and i could do a lot online but it

    00:52:23.239 --> 00:52:27.739

    was still just like so much to do all that i

    00:52:27.739 --> 00:52:31.239

    think and i yeah didn't want to do both badly

    00:52:31.719 --> 00:52:34.019

    I guess, were you also living at home at that

    00:52:34.019 --> 00:52:36.980

    time? I don't really know what the school experience

    00:52:36.980 --> 00:52:40.179

    is like in the UK, but I guess like in the US,

    00:52:40.239 --> 00:52:43.059

    you're like living in dorms on campus and then

    00:52:43.059 --> 00:52:45.079

    it's kind of like the whole experience. Yeah,

    00:52:45.079 --> 00:52:49.340

    yeah. No, so I moved into like student halls

    00:52:49.340 --> 00:52:51.860

    and there was like four of us in a flat and we

    00:52:51.860 --> 00:52:55.809

    shared a kitchen. But then since then. Since

    00:52:55.809 --> 00:52:58.010

    I dropped out of uni, I've moved back home and

    00:52:58.010 --> 00:53:01.250

    now I'm looking for apartments in Leeds because

    00:53:01.250 --> 00:53:03.969

    I want to move over there for training. Is that

    00:53:03.969 --> 00:53:06.889

    like where the better gyms are? Yeah, I think

    00:53:06.889 --> 00:53:12.110

    Leeds, Sheffield, Manchester is like the UK climbing

    00:53:12.110 --> 00:53:15.949

    triangle at the moment. I think for comp climbing,

    00:53:16.170 --> 00:53:20.829

    the better gyms are in Leeds and Sheffield and

    00:53:20.829 --> 00:53:24.019

    I think also the scene over there. is better

    00:53:24.019 --> 00:53:27.360

    at the moment and training with uh other strong

    00:53:27.360 --> 00:53:29.739

    comp climbers is really good yeah it always seems

    00:53:29.739 --> 00:53:33.579

    like that helps um okay cool so let's move into

    00:53:33.579 --> 00:53:36.440

    some of the other grab bag audience submitted

    00:53:36.440 --> 00:53:41.179

    questions now um the first one from kaito102

    00:53:41.179 --> 00:53:43.980

    how do you decide which teams to train at locally

    00:53:43.980 --> 00:53:48.380

    or internationally um locally i think it depends

    00:53:48.380 --> 00:53:52.929

    what's on my training plan um i try to like Look

    00:53:52.929 --> 00:53:55.929

    at the focus of the day and pick the best gym

    00:53:55.929 --> 00:53:59.869

    possible for that. But obviously some days I'll

    00:53:59.869 --> 00:54:02.170

    be able to go to Leeds or Sheffield on the train

    00:54:02.170 --> 00:54:04.030

    and some days I'll have to stick to, because

    00:54:04.030 --> 00:54:07.949

    I'm currently based in Manchester. So I think

    00:54:07.949 --> 00:54:11.150

    I just kind of pick the best day for the plan

    00:54:11.150 --> 00:54:16.989

    and what I can do. I think during training camps,

    00:54:17.289 --> 00:54:21.170

    like we go to Paris a decent amount for training

    00:54:21.170 --> 00:54:27.250

    camps. um and you just go to the gyms with the

    00:54:27.250 --> 00:54:30.369

    best boulders i think like maybe we'll ask someone

    00:54:30.369 --> 00:54:33.849

    on the french team like oh like what what gyms

    00:54:33.849 --> 00:54:38.110

    are good and then similarly uh during the season

    00:54:38.110 --> 00:54:41.849

    um the coaches will talk to other coaches and

    00:54:41.849 --> 00:54:43.969

    it'll be like oh this gym's good they've got

    00:54:43.969 --> 00:54:48.179

    good con boulders up or something And then I

    00:54:48.179 --> 00:54:50.920

    guess like when you're traveling for competitions,

    00:54:50.960 --> 00:54:55.699

    do you have like a method of picking gyms to

    00:54:55.699 --> 00:54:58.659

    train at? People just ask around and we talk

    00:54:58.659 --> 00:55:02.659

    to our coaches or we'll talk to other athletes

    00:55:02.659 --> 00:55:05.320

    and be like, oh, this gym wasn't very good. This

    00:55:05.320 --> 00:55:08.159

    gym was good. Honestly, you can see a lot on

    00:55:08.159 --> 00:55:11.000

    Instagram, I think. Like I always like go on

    00:55:11.000 --> 00:55:12.639

    the gym's page, look what they've been tagged

    00:55:12.639 --> 00:55:15.579

    in and then see if the bowl does look any good.

    00:55:16.039 --> 00:55:19.699

    Yeah, that makes sense. Next one from ADHD climber

    00:55:19.699 --> 00:55:22.219

    one. What's your advice for making climbing shoes

    00:55:22.219 --> 00:55:26.480

    last? Making climbing shoes last? Yeah. I don't

    00:55:26.480 --> 00:55:28.159

    know if I'm the best to answer this question

    00:55:28.159 --> 00:55:30.000

    because I feel like mine don't last very long.

    00:55:30.500 --> 00:55:33.599

    How long does it usually last for you? Gosh,

    00:55:33.679 --> 00:55:36.840

    I mean, I'll use a different pair for unless

    00:55:36.840 --> 00:55:39.820

    there's like a comp back to back. I think I'll

    00:55:39.820 --> 00:55:42.659

    use a different pair for every comp. Oh, really?

    00:55:42.900 --> 00:55:48.239

    But in training. uh like not even like four weeks

    00:55:48.239 --> 00:55:50.699

    I don't like maybe like three weeks or something

    00:55:50.699 --> 00:55:52.659

    I don't know it depends how much salve I'm doing

    00:55:52.659 --> 00:55:55.400

    if I'm doing loads of salve oh seriously yeah

    00:55:55.400 --> 00:56:00.239

    I mean and it depends how long I wear them like

    00:56:00.239 --> 00:56:02.380

    if I wear them till they die and get holes in

    00:56:02.380 --> 00:56:07.719

    or if I don't but I think yeah I really don't

    00:56:07.719 --> 00:56:11.510

    think shoes last me oh my gosh I think I'm training

    00:56:11.510 --> 00:56:13.550

    wrong because mine lasts for like a year and

    00:56:13.550 --> 00:56:15.809

    a half at least and I thought that was short

    00:56:15.809 --> 00:56:21.130

    yeah what holy crap wait so and for every comp

    00:56:21.130 --> 00:56:27.130

    you usually do a new pair I think yeah like for

    00:56:27.130 --> 00:56:29.929

    comps I like them to be broken in like a specific

    00:56:29.929 --> 00:56:33.750

    amount yeah what's your like timeline I don't

    00:56:33.750 --> 00:56:36.210

    really have a timeline but I wear dragos and

    00:56:36.210 --> 00:56:40.510

    sometimes I like when There's like the branding

    00:56:40.510 --> 00:56:42.909

    on the bottom of the shoe. When that's gone,

    00:56:43.110 --> 00:56:45.250

    I think that's a good indicator for me. That's

    00:56:45.250 --> 00:56:49.710

    like the perfect shoe level. Yeah. Oh, that's

    00:56:49.710 --> 00:56:52.070

    so specific. But yeah, that helps because I have

    00:56:52.070 --> 00:56:56.409

    noticed that too. Yeah. But if the comps like

    00:56:56.409 --> 00:57:00.289

    between Prague and Bern this year, I think I

    00:57:00.289 --> 00:57:04.130

    wore the same pair. But I didn't like training

    00:57:04.130 --> 00:57:06.789

    them in between. So I had a different pair with

    00:57:06.789 --> 00:57:09.639

    me to train in. so i'll like do that sometimes

    00:57:09.639 --> 00:57:15.699

    but if yeah i'll yeah use different shoes for

    00:57:15.699 --> 00:57:18.719

    every comp and then but like recently i've been

    00:57:18.719 --> 00:57:21.320

    just using old comp shoes like getting through

    00:57:21.320 --> 00:57:24.039

    all ben um so i don't let them go to waste but

    00:57:24.039 --> 00:57:28.300

    wow so i mean that's like how many boulder comps

    00:57:28.300 --> 00:57:31.500

    in a year seven pairs of shoes during the season

    00:57:31.500 --> 00:57:36.199

    wow and I can't believe you go through it in

    00:57:36.199 --> 00:57:39.800

    four weeks I think I'm not climbing slab properly

    00:57:39.800 --> 00:57:44.219

    or you are and I'm climbing slab badly and just

    00:57:44.219 --> 00:57:47.920

    like going through the shoes yeah no I don't

    00:57:47.920 --> 00:57:50.280

    know about that although I think sometimes I

    00:57:50.280 --> 00:57:53.280

    am a little too careful with my shoes like sometimes

    00:57:53.280 --> 00:57:57.840

    I think I'm not committing to a move specifically

    00:57:57.840 --> 00:58:00.139

    because I'm like oh my gosh I want to use a lot

    00:58:00.139 --> 00:58:05.179

    of rubber like if I mess this up yeah wow okay

    00:58:05.179 --> 00:58:08.480

    no that's interesting to to hear so no advice

    00:58:08.480 --> 00:58:10.780

    for making climbing shoes last I don't think

    00:58:10.780 --> 00:58:15.280

    so no I'm so sorry yeah I have advice for breaking

    00:58:15.280 --> 00:58:18.619

    them in um yeah yeah what's that yeah I recently

    00:58:18.619 --> 00:58:24.210

    um I actually I got this advice from Quinn who's

    00:58:24.210 --> 00:58:27.989

    on the US team so I can't like claim to have

    00:58:27.989 --> 00:58:30.309

    come up with it but I've been bringing a hair

    00:58:30.309 --> 00:58:33.570

    dryer to the wall um so when it's cold I like

    00:58:33.570 --> 00:58:37.030

    blast the shoes with the hair dryer and it makes

    00:58:37.030 --> 00:58:39.010

    breaking them in so much easier and then I also

    00:58:39.010 --> 00:58:41.349

    wear like plastic bags to break them in because

    00:58:41.349 --> 00:58:44.250

    otherwise it's too painful but yeah but the hair

    00:58:44.250 --> 00:58:46.610

    dryer is such a good hack especially for the

    00:58:46.610 --> 00:58:50.550

    winter I think Yeah, I bet. I don't really experience

    00:58:50.550 --> 00:58:54.329

    that much winter here in California. Oh, in California.

    00:58:54.889 --> 00:58:58.409

    Yeah, but it does still get cold, in my opinion.

    00:58:58.750 --> 00:59:02.710

    Yeah. And I usually just kind of like sit on

    00:59:02.710 --> 00:59:05.190

    my shoes for a while. Yeah, that probably works

    00:59:05.190 --> 00:59:07.789

    too, to be fair. Maybe you don't need to carry

    00:59:07.789 --> 00:59:10.429

    around the big hedge right with you. It seems

    00:59:10.429 --> 00:59:12.510

    nice, though. I think that would be more comfortable.

    00:59:13.099 --> 00:59:16.139

    okay cool next question from daniel strucker

    00:59:16.139 --> 00:59:18.980

    um what was your favorite boulder from the brussels

    00:59:18.980 --> 00:59:22.659

    european cup oh where you got first so congrats

    00:59:22.659 --> 00:59:26.019

    on that thank you um my favorite boulder was

    00:59:26.019 --> 00:59:29.039

    definitely the last boulder in finals it was

    00:59:29.039 --> 00:59:33.619

    this paddle dino um and it was so good i didn't

    00:59:33.619 --> 00:59:36.179

    top it actually i fell off the last move but

    00:59:36.179 --> 00:59:38.619

    i really really liked that boulder that was really

    00:59:38.619 --> 00:59:42.960

    good was that like the competition winner for

    00:59:42.960 --> 00:59:45.900

    you or like the what's the word I like the comp

    00:59:45.900 --> 00:59:48.880

    the boulder which won me the comp or yeah yeah

    00:59:48.880 --> 00:59:51.780

    no actually it was the only one I didn't top

    00:59:51.780 --> 00:59:57.300

    in the finals it was the last one um but yeah

    00:59:57.300 --> 00:59:59.179

    I don't know I really really enjoyed that comp

    00:59:59.179 --> 01:00:02.820

    it was maybe one of my or that round it was maybe

    01:00:02.820 --> 01:00:05.019

    my favorite round or one of my favorite rounds

    01:00:05.019 --> 01:00:10.670

    of the season um and I think like i don't know

    01:00:10.670 --> 01:00:13.730

    the crowd was just like so good in brussels and

    01:00:13.730 --> 01:00:16.449

    the music was so good and my round was going

    01:00:16.449 --> 01:00:20.030

    really well um and i it was like the last boulder

    01:00:20.030 --> 01:00:22.750

    of the final and it was a coordination i love

    01:00:22.750 --> 01:00:25.269

    coordination and like the music was good the

    01:00:25.269 --> 01:00:27.769

    crowd were cheering i just had so much fun on

    01:00:27.769 --> 01:00:30.070

    that boulder even though i didn't do the last

    01:00:30.070 --> 01:00:32.590

    move but yeah it was really good what's good

    01:00:32.590 --> 01:00:35.449

    music for you at a comp i think just like upbeat

    01:00:35.449 --> 01:00:40.340

    music i think yeah okay next one from john ford

    01:00:40.340 --> 01:00:44.139

    19 what's the intensity between tc and world

    01:00:44.139 --> 01:00:47.099

    cups i don't really know what tc is like training

    01:00:47.099 --> 01:00:53.719

    center maybe training camps maybe yeah i mean

    01:00:53.719 --> 01:00:55.860

    during training camps you're training so you're

    01:00:55.860 --> 01:01:00.309

    pushing yourself obviously really hard um And

    01:01:00.309 --> 01:01:02.250

    obviously in a World Cup round, you're pushing

    01:01:02.250 --> 01:01:04.309

    yourself hard. But before the World Cup round,

    01:01:04.469 --> 01:01:07.309

    you're resting and recovering and making sure

    01:01:07.309 --> 01:01:11.530

    you feel good for the World Cup. So I guess there's,

    01:01:11.530 --> 01:01:12.869

    I don't know, I think they're very different

    01:01:12.869 --> 01:01:17.329

    things, like training and then competing. I guess,

    01:01:17.329 --> 01:01:21.329

    are the boulders set for training camps harder

    01:01:21.329 --> 01:01:24.809

    or easier or about the same as World Cups? Oh,

    01:01:24.849 --> 01:01:28.429

    like during a mock comp round or something. Yeah.

    01:01:28.489 --> 01:01:30.599

    Okay, that makes sense. Yeah. I think it depends

    01:01:30.599 --> 01:01:36.079

    on the training camp, but I think they try to

    01:01:36.079 --> 01:01:40.219

    make them the right level. I've definitely done

    01:01:40.219 --> 01:01:42.000

    training camps where they've been easier, the

    01:01:42.000 --> 01:01:43.880

    boulders, and definitely in the training camps

    01:01:43.880 --> 01:01:47.039

    where the boulders have been harder than World

    01:01:47.039 --> 01:01:51.360

    Cup boulders. But I think it depends on the round.

    01:01:51.480 --> 01:01:55.500

    But often in a training camp, I think it's better

    01:01:55.500 --> 01:01:57.400

    if they're harder because then you can go back.

    01:01:58.090 --> 01:02:00.369

    and work on the boulders after and that's always

    01:02:00.369 --> 01:02:03.190

    quite good at least from a viewer's perspective

    01:02:03.190 --> 01:02:05.650

    it's hard to think that they would set something

    01:02:05.650 --> 01:02:08.429

    harder than a world cup but i always forget that

    01:02:08.429 --> 01:02:10.530

    during a world cup you only have so many minutes

    01:02:10.530 --> 01:02:13.650

    to actually send it yeah i think if it's not

    01:02:13.650 --> 01:02:17.469

    a simulation uh training boulders are definitely

    01:02:17.469 --> 01:02:21.190

    harder than world cup boulders because there's

    01:02:21.190 --> 01:02:24.480

    only like I don't know, like there's so many

    01:02:24.480 --> 01:02:27.139

    incredible climbers, but also four minutes isn't

    01:02:27.139 --> 01:02:32.960

    that long. So if they're limit boulders, they're

    01:02:32.960 --> 01:02:36.079

    not going to be in a while. Or yeah, they're

    01:02:36.079 --> 01:02:38.300

    going to be harder in the training camp. Okay.

    01:02:38.360 --> 01:02:41.619

    And last question is from Process Physio. So

    01:02:41.619 --> 01:02:44.949

    from Andy, which I think. Oh, he used to coach

    01:02:44.949 --> 01:02:48.750

    me. Yeah. Oh, yeah, yeah. So he says hi, first

    01:02:48.750 --> 01:02:51.269

    of all. And then his question was, does your

    01:02:51.269 --> 01:02:53.869

    brother Luke climb harder than you yet? No, no.

    01:02:54.010 --> 01:02:57.230

    Maybe he will. No, I hope he doesn't. But that

    01:02:57.230 --> 01:02:59.909

    is actually, like, one of my goals. Like, I can't

    01:02:59.909 --> 01:03:03.650

    ever let him climb harder than me. Yeah. I think

    01:03:03.650 --> 01:03:08.050

    he would be better than me on, like, a big campus

    01:03:08.050 --> 01:03:10.969

    move. But everything else, I've still got him.

    01:03:11.150 --> 01:03:15.800

    How old is he? uh he's 17 yeah oh okay and he

    01:03:15.800 --> 01:03:18.780

    started climbing when he was like 14. so he's

    01:03:18.780 --> 01:03:22.000

    not been climbing that long oh my gosh wow yeah

    01:03:22.000 --> 01:03:25.460

    but he got like when guys like go through puberty

    01:03:25.460 --> 01:03:28.460

    and they get so strong he just got so strong

    01:03:28.460 --> 01:03:30.659

    so quickly like he can do more one -armors than

    01:03:30.659 --> 01:03:34.420

    me which does break my heart but um i still climb

    01:03:34.420 --> 01:03:38.480

    harder for now so that's good nice yeah is he

    01:03:38.480 --> 01:03:41.960

    trying to i guess like does he have climbing

    01:03:41.960 --> 01:03:44.519

    goals of like competing or is he just doing it

    01:03:44.519 --> 01:03:47.539

    for fun uh he does comps but i think right now

    01:03:47.539 --> 01:03:50.380

    like he's in school and he just he just loves

    01:03:50.380 --> 01:03:53.500

    climbing he goes climbing all the time um he

    01:03:53.500 --> 01:03:57.099

    doesn't do it as seriously as me he just yeah

    01:03:57.099 --> 01:04:00.159

    but he really enjoys it i think a lot of i think

    01:04:00.159 --> 01:04:02.420

    climbing is quite addictive and a lot of climbers

    01:04:02.420 --> 01:04:05.260

    even if they don't do it like seriously they

    01:04:05.260 --> 01:04:07.960

    still do it seriously i don't know i guess i'm

    01:04:07.960 --> 01:04:10.480

    surprised he actually started so late considering

    01:04:10.480 --> 01:04:13.420

    you were already climbing a lot at that time

    01:04:13.420 --> 01:04:17.300

    yeah I think when I first went climbing we did

    01:04:17.300 --> 01:04:21.460

    take him climbing as well um I remember he like

    01:04:21.460 --> 01:04:24.800

    took a fall or something and then he just decided

    01:04:24.800 --> 01:04:28.099

    he didn't like it and I think also because I

    01:04:28.099 --> 01:04:31.719

    was doing it maybe he didn't want to do it I'm

    01:04:31.719 --> 01:04:35.699

    not sure yeah but then yeah he got into it a

    01:04:35.699 --> 01:04:38.340

    few years ago And now he climbs all the time

    01:04:38.340 --> 01:04:40.460

    as well. But I guess you don't want him to get

    01:04:40.460 --> 01:04:43.019

    too into it because then he might start beating

    01:04:43.019 --> 01:04:44.980

    you. Yeah, I can't even be stronger than me.

    01:04:46.099 --> 01:04:50.559

    That would be terrible. I agree. Okay, well,

    01:04:50.659 --> 01:04:52.760

    that's all the questions I had then. Thanks for

    01:04:52.760 --> 01:04:56.340

    joining me today. Any last -minute shout -outs

    01:04:56.340 --> 01:04:59.360

    or words of wisdom that you have? Tips for coordination

    01:04:59.360 --> 01:05:02.699

    moves or anything like that? Tips for coordination

    01:05:02.699 --> 01:05:07.010

    moves. Do as many as you can. Never avoid them

    01:05:07.010 --> 01:05:09.050

    because it's going to make the problem worse.

    01:05:09.429 --> 01:05:11.690

    And just be confident. Like if you commit, I

    01:05:11.690 --> 01:05:13.429

    don't know, what's the worst that can happen?

    01:05:14.769 --> 01:05:18.010

    True. Well, you could slam into the wall. True,

    01:05:18.030 --> 01:05:20.110

    true. But I think sometimes as well, when you

    01:05:20.110 --> 01:05:22.369

    take the slam into the wall, it's like, well,

    01:05:22.449 --> 01:05:24.869

    that's the worst that can happen. So then you

    01:05:24.869 --> 01:05:28.650

    can commit. I don't know. Yeah. People are going

    01:05:28.650 --> 01:05:32.309

    to go like slam into walls. Yeah. And do you

    01:05:32.309 --> 01:05:33.710

    want to let people know where they can find you?

    01:05:34.030 --> 01:05:37.710

    uh yeah i'm emma .climbing on instagram i'm surprised

    01:05:37.710 --> 01:05:40.130

    you managed to get that handle yeah i've had

    01:05:40.130 --> 01:05:41.949

    it for quite a while to be fair since i was like

    01:05:41.949 --> 01:05:46.090

    13 actually uh yeah there's another girl who

    01:05:46.090 --> 01:05:47.949

    i'm friends with called emma and she used to

    01:05:47.949 --> 01:05:51.650

    have the handle and then she like merged her

    01:05:51.650 --> 01:05:53.789

    accounts or something and she gave me like advanced

    01:05:53.789 --> 01:05:56.510

    notice she was like oh wow you can have the climbing

    01:05:57.440 --> 01:06:01.400

    Wow. Congrats. Thank you. Okay. Awesome. Well,

    01:06:01.500 --> 01:06:03.099

    thank you again. And it was amazing to talk to

    01:06:03.099 --> 01:06:07.440

    you. Thank you so much for making it to the end

    01:06:07.440 --> 01:06:09.980

    of the podcast. Don't forget to like, and subscribe

    01:06:09.980 --> 01:06:13.059

    if you enjoyed, otherwise you are a super fake

    01:06:13.059 --> 01:06:15.880

    climber. If you're listening on a podcasting

    01:06:15.880 --> 01:06:18.000

    platform, I'd appreciate if you rate it five

    01:06:18.000 --> 01:06:20.780

    stars and you can continue the discussion on

    01:06:20.780 --> 01:06:23.519

    the free competition, climbing discord linked

    01:06:23.519 --> 01:06:25.940

    in the description. Thanks again for listening.

Jinni Xia
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52: Charlie Boscoe, Pro Climbing League Co-Founder