48: Annie Sanders, USA’s Static Boulderer
Annie is a climber on Team USA and she had an amazing world cup season this year with 2 boulder golds and a lead gold and even more podiums! In this episode we’ll learn about what goes through her mind during her crazy beta breaks, what her training routine looks like, and how gym access really influences performance.
Show Notes
Guest links:
Annie’s Xiaohungshu (red book)
Reference links:
Timestamps
Timestamps of discussion topics
0:00 - Intro
0:56 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!
1:39 - Jetlag + travels
5:29 - Growing up in a climbing family
7:09 - Static + slow climbing style
10:07 - Regretting static beta breaks??
12:08 - Timing out in lead
18:22 - 2026 goals
20:49 - Annie's training plan
24:32 - Lack of gym access
27:43 - Post-high school plans
30:22 - Outdoor climbing
33:38 - AUDIENCE Q: Can you still be an elite climber without passion?
35:43 - Audience Q: Mindset during comps?
41:36 - AUDIENCE Q: Tips for endurance?
42:26 - Audience Q: Advice on how to break dynos?
43:23 - AUDIENCE Q: Is it hard previewing climbs with other athletes?
45:57 - Outro and where to find Annie
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WEBVTT
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I actually haven't climbed since finals. People
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just expect me to not do cordo moves and stuff
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like that and I just kind of want to change that.
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I just like enjoy the grind. I enjoy like the
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pain. Welcome to another episode of the That's
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Not Real Climbing podcast. I'm your host, Jinni,
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and I'm excited to introduce my guest for today,
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Annie Sanders. Annie is a climber on Team USA,
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and she has had an amazing World Cup season this
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year with two Boulder Golds and a Lead Gold and
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even more podiums. In this episode, we'll learn
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about what goes through her mind during her crazy
00:00:35.020 --> 00:00:37.359
beta breaks, what her training routine looks
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like, and how gym access really influences performance.
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I really appreciate her breaking out of her shell
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a bit to do this interview. So enjoy this exclusive
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interview with Annie. I'm excited to announce
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that my sponsor, Mad Rock Climbing, just came
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out with a brand new pair of shoes, the Remora
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Pro. I was so excited to try them on that even
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though I broke a toe on my right foot, I had
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to at least try on the left shoe. So I can definitely
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say that the Remora Pro is better than a rental
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shoe. But really, these are their softest shoe
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ever, which means you no longer need to worry
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about standing on sketchy volumes and comps.
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inserts that lock your heel into the shoe no
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matter how hard you're pulling. Feel free to
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shoes or sizing and you can use the discount
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code NOTREALCLIMBER for 10 % off your entire
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MedRock order. Back to the show. How are you
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doing today? I'm good. How are you? Good, good.
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A little bit hectic because I'm taking care of
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a cat right now. Maybe she'll make an appearance.
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I don't know. We'll definitely get more into
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world champs later on. But how are you feeling
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now coming back from Korea? Are you still jet
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lagged or when did you get back? I got back on
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Monday, but I'm definitely still jet lagged.
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Like I think last night I slept for like 12 hours
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and I'm still pretty exhausted today. Oh my gosh.
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It's been like a week, right? Yeah. I feel like
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it usually takes me at least two weeks to like
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fully recover from any Asia trip. No, I totally
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agree with that. People think I'm like crazy
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for saying that I feel like I lose a month of
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my life whenever I go to Asia. But yeah, I think
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it takes me like two weeks there and then two
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weeks when I get back. And so I feel like I lose
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my entire life. Yeah. Do you have any like jet
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lag tricks? Honestly, not really. Just try to
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like not nap later in the day because then I'll
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be up all night. I've been like taking like two
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or three naps around like. noon and maybe like
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two it's like the exhaustion hits different though
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it's not just like a nap that you can say no
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to yeah exactly i can't function anymore yeah
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like i can't stay awake yeah how do you climb
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with the jet lag i actually haven't climbed since
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finals so i'm taking a little bit of a break
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right now but usually i just like usually i just
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like try to push through it maybe not train as
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hard but like I don't know always just try to
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like listen to my body and see how I feel what
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about when it's like competition time like the
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jet lag you get in Asia honestly I don't feel
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that much jet lag when I'm going to Asia but
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once I get back it like hits me pretty hard and
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the same with Europe I think it's when I'm in
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Europe I'm there for so long that I don't really
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notice it but right yeah I feel like I only feel
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the jet lag when I get back from Asia it's really
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weird I mean, I guess that's convenient that
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you don't feel the jet lag when it's important,
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I guess. Yeah, exactly. Yeah. Okay. Did you do
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anything fun in Korea? I mean, we went shopping,
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of course. That was pretty much it. We didn't
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really have time to do too much sightseeing.
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So we were kind of staying in the area where
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the venue was. And how long were you there for?
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I honestly can't remember. Maybe like a week.
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oh in korea i think i was there for about a week
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and a half maybe but i also yeah something like
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that i can't i don't know the exact length but
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i did go to japan for a week before then for
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like training and travel i guess yeah what did
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you do in japan i've never been but i would really
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like to check it out mostly just like training
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and the gyms they were very good but yeah the
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trip was like mostly focused around training
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because like a lot of the gyms there open very
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late so we would just like wait wake up have
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to like wait out the day go to the gym and then
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by the time we're finished it's already like
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bedtime so but like on the rest days we would
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go shopping like check out coffee shops do some
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sightseeing it's kind of wild that you would
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say that you have to like wait out the day in
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Japan I feel like for a lot of people going to
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Japan is like a dream vacation yeah I mean, we
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did do a little bit of sightseeing during that
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time, but not much. Are you a foodie when you
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travel, or is it just shopping? I'm really into
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coffee, and I actually found a 10 out of 10 coffee
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shop in Japan, in Shinjuku. Yeah, what's it called?
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Give it a shout out. It's called Covert Coffee.
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It's really close to the Shinjuku train station.
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Okay. Hopefully people can check that out when
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they go. Yeah. Yeah. I guess getting a little
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bit into climbing and your background with that,
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how did you start out climbing? So my mom is
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actually a climber. So she started climbing when
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she was in college and she kind of like brought
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it into the family. I pretty much like grew up
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in a gym. I would like hang around her and her
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friends' kids like when they were all climbing
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together. And then when I was seven, I started
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competing and that's when I like fell in love
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with competition climbing. decided that's what
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i wanted to keep doing with my life okay so sort
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of a climbing family or do you have like siblings
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uh yeah i have two older sisters my uh one of
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my older sisters also climbs she also works at
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the gym she coaches little kids Yeah, what was
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that dynamic like growing up being like the youngest
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one? Or I guess I don't know necessarily if you're
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the youngest one. Yeah, I'm the youngest, yeah.
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Okay, yeah. So like being the youngest one and
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then also other people who like climbing the
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family. I mean, it was pretty cool. We would
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always like plan a bunch of trips around climbing.
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So like, for example, we used to go to Rifle
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in the summer and we would like go camping and
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then climbing and stuff like that. So it was
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a pretty cool family dynamic. Yeah, you felt
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like you actually liked it the whole time. Yeah,
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I actually liked it. I mean, my parents gave
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me like many options. I like tried many different
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sports, but I always stuck to climbing. What
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do you feel like was the second closest sport
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that you really enjoyed? Definitely swimming.
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I still do swim twice a week for cross training.
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Really? Yeah, I quit competitive swimming when
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I was nine. Just to focus on climbing? Yeah.
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Okay, that makes sense. So, yeah, I guess I would
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say that I always thought you were more of a
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lead climber than a boulderer. I don't know where
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I got that thought from. Maybe just from like
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the way that you rest on boulders or something
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like that. But your results are actually pretty
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even. So do you have a preference nowadays still?
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No, I don't have a preference. I mean, I like
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both equally. So it's like hard to choose one.
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Yeah, I guess I found that surprising. I mean,
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did you did you used to like lead more, you think?
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Honestly, not really. I kind of have always done
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both equally. I think I've just been naturally
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better as a lead climber because I have more
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slow twitch muscles. I move slower on the wall,
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but that's something that I'm going to try to
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work on this coming off season. In general, how
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would you characterize your climbing? I mean,
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honestly, I feel like you're kind of right in
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a way. I feel like I do climb like a lead climber.
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But... It's kind of because I'm also timid on
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a lot of boulders. I don't really commit fully
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to a lot of the moves, which is why I kind of
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suck at coordination moves. It kind of gets to
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me at comps, but yeah. I feel like a lot of coaches
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and people say that in bouldering, you have to
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be very sure in your movement and commit to a
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certain beta. And so how do you... I don't know,
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managed to perform in bouldering with still being
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so unsure about what movement you want to go
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with? I think I'm just like really good at pure
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strength boulders. Like I can just like pull
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through and like, I don't know, I guess thug
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my way through a lot of the boulders. But for
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example, in like soul finals, that wasn't the
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case. Like I had to like be powerful, explosive
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and all that type of stuff. So that's why I did
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like pretty bad at that round. Okay. Yeah, that
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makes sense. And then you can also spend like
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a really long time on boulders or lead routes.
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Do you feel like endurance came naturally to
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you or was it something you like worked really
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hard to train and get better at? It's definitely,
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I mean, I guess it does come natural in some
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ways, but I do have to work very hard to like
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maintain it. So like even when I was younger,
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I was doing like up, down, ups on like. 5 12
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5 13 and I think I would say like most of my
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lead sessions I do a minimum of like 15 to 20
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routes something like that I think the most I've
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done is like 23 in a session but I don't always
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do that but yeah I definitely have to work to
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keep that endurance and so do you prioritize
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keeping that endurance over maybe working on
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something like being more powerful honestly not
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really I would say I work more on bouldering
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that I than I do on lead climbing like I think
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I only do ropes once a week so yeah I definitely
00:10:06.490 --> 00:10:09.850
boulder a lot more and we'll get into a bit more
00:10:09.850 --> 00:10:11.690
of like the details of your training later but
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um for now since we just came off the 2025 season
00:10:15.289 --> 00:10:18.750
um let's get into that a little bit so looking
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back on your 2025 season how do you feel like
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it went in general I feel like it went pretty
00:10:23.769 --> 00:10:27.169
well like I kept like a good momentum throughout
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the whole season but like I performed pretty
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well maybe not at all the comps but most of them
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but i think like towards the end towards korea
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i was just like getting pretty tired it was like
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an especially long season for people it sounds
00:10:40.389 --> 00:10:43.889
like yeah i think it started in april yeah just
00:10:43.889 --> 00:10:47.809
thinking back to a lot of like the boulder comps
00:10:47.809 --> 00:10:51.370
do you ever regret trying to like beta break
00:10:51.370 --> 00:10:55.090
or static so many of them yeah like definitely
00:10:56.330 --> 00:10:58.669
Dude, there are so many times where I just got
00:10:58.669 --> 00:11:01.490
so extremely pumped on a boulder where I just
00:11:01.490 --> 00:11:03.309
could not recover for the rest of my attempts.
00:11:03.730 --> 00:11:08.029
Whoa, really? I think at finals in Seoul on the
00:11:08.029 --> 00:11:10.850
second boulder, I was on that second to last
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hold for probably a minute and a half or something
00:11:13.129 --> 00:11:16.269
like that. And after my first attempt, I was
00:11:16.269 --> 00:11:18.730
pretty much done. I could not recover after that.
00:11:18.889 --> 00:11:21.610
We can't see what's going on behind the camera
00:11:21.610 --> 00:11:24.230
or what the coaches are thinking. Do you get
00:11:24.230 --> 00:11:27.220
like... talking to from the coaches of like you
00:11:27.220 --> 00:11:30.340
gotta stop doing that yeah my coach did tell
00:11:30.340 --> 00:11:34.259
me that I should like fully commit to the coordination
00:11:34.259 --> 00:11:36.659
beta for like the first three to four minutes
00:11:36.659 --> 00:11:39.259
and if I feel like it's like I'm not close at
00:11:39.259 --> 00:11:41.240
all or if it's not gonna work then maybe I could
00:11:41.240 --> 00:11:44.620
try to static but I don't know I guess like when
00:11:44.620 --> 00:11:47.179
I'm in the moment all like my main goal is just
00:11:47.179 --> 00:11:48.899
to like get to the top of the boulder so I'm
00:11:48.899 --> 00:11:51.820
not really thinking about that and so you're
00:11:51.820 --> 00:11:55.830
gonna disregard that coaching Not like just disregard,
00:11:56.029 --> 00:11:57.789
but I kind of just like forget about it in the
00:11:57.789 --> 00:12:00.190
moment because I'm so locked in. And then I guess
00:12:00.190 --> 00:12:04.429
similarly along the vein of like being a slower
00:12:04.429 --> 00:12:09.230
climber, you time out a lot in lead. I guess
00:12:09.230 --> 00:12:12.649
I'm wondering how that happens because I think
00:12:12.649 --> 00:12:15.490
a lot of people look down at the clock, realize
00:12:15.490 --> 00:12:17.809
that there's not much time left and then they
00:12:17.809 --> 00:12:20.549
like kind of motor. So do you just like stop
00:12:20.549 --> 00:12:22.870
looking at the clock at a certain point or what
00:12:22.870 --> 00:12:26.019
happens there? uh I mean when I get to about
00:12:26.019 --> 00:12:28.960
a minute left I kind of do start to like pick
00:12:28.960 --> 00:12:32.340
up the pace but I mean ideally I should be picking
00:12:32.340 --> 00:12:35.019
up the pace like lower down on the route because
00:12:35.019 --> 00:12:37.840
that's where I lose most of my time but yeah
00:12:37.840 --> 00:12:39.620
it's kind of weird because like in my training
00:12:39.620 --> 00:12:42.860
I honestly don't climb that slow I would say
00:12:42.860 --> 00:12:46.000
I'm actually a pretty fast climber but whenever
00:12:46.000 --> 00:12:48.940
I'm like on signing something I'm pretty slow
00:12:48.940 --> 00:12:52.009
so that's like something I need to work on Is
00:12:52.009 --> 00:12:55.529
it like you think the pressure of like one slip
00:12:55.529 --> 00:12:58.529
and then it's over? I think that and I'm just
00:12:58.529 --> 00:13:01.850
like more focused on like getting to the top
00:13:01.850 --> 00:13:05.610
of the route than I am on like getting as high
00:13:05.610 --> 00:13:08.350
as I can in the fastest amount of time like without
00:13:08.350 --> 00:13:11.190
timing out. I guess it's kind of surprising to
00:13:11.190 --> 00:13:14.850
hear that you start to motor after like when
00:13:14.850 --> 00:13:16.769
there's a minute left because I feel like there
00:13:16.769 --> 00:13:20.110
are definitely times in lead where there's like
00:13:20.379 --> 00:13:23.039
less than a minute and you still look like as
00:13:23.039 --> 00:13:25.720
if there was an infinite amount of time left
00:13:25.720 --> 00:13:28.460
yeah true i mean maybe i think i'm moving faster
00:13:28.460 --> 00:13:31.259
but maybe i'm not i don't know because sometimes
00:13:31.259 --> 00:13:33.899
i go back and i like like in the moment i feel
00:13:33.899 --> 00:13:35.879
like i'm like flying through the route and then
00:13:35.879 --> 00:13:38.240
i go back and watch it and i'm like dang i'm
00:13:38.240 --> 00:13:40.419
going really slow right now yeah i need to like
00:13:40.419 --> 00:13:42.600
pick up the pace how often do you watch back
00:13:42.600 --> 00:13:45.299
your climbs like pretty much after every comp
00:13:45.299 --> 00:13:48.159
i like to see like what i could work on what
00:13:48.159 --> 00:13:50.629
i could improve Based on what you've watched
00:13:50.629 --> 00:13:55.429
this year, what do you feel like you need to
00:13:55.429 --> 00:13:58.889
work on for the future? For bouldering, probably
00:13:58.889 --> 00:14:02.269
explosiveness and commitment, and then lead,
00:14:02.330 --> 00:14:05.970
just climbing faster and more efficient. I guess,
00:14:05.970 --> 00:14:08.610
what are you doing to work on those? Or I guess
00:14:08.610 --> 00:14:10.090
you haven't started training yet for the next
00:14:10.090 --> 00:14:12.490
season, but what's your plan? Honestly, next
00:14:12.490 --> 00:14:14.570
year, I think I'm going to focus a little bit
00:14:14.570 --> 00:14:17.700
more on bouldering. I don't really have too much
00:14:17.700 --> 00:14:20.720
of a plan yet for lead, but I'll probably start
00:14:20.720 --> 00:14:23.779
doing a lot more lifting and stuff like that.
00:14:24.419 --> 00:14:27.299
I mean, I did lift last year, but it wasn't very
00:14:27.299 --> 00:14:29.299
intentional. This year, I kind of want to be
00:14:29.299 --> 00:14:31.919
more intentional with what I'm doing. Okay. Why
00:14:31.919 --> 00:14:34.419
the focus on boulder for next year? I kind of
00:14:34.419 --> 00:14:37.940
want to not suck at coordination moves anymore
00:14:37.940 --> 00:14:39.720
because I feel like I have a reputation for,
00:14:39.759 --> 00:14:43.539
I don't know, the climber that can never do coordination.
00:14:45.710 --> 00:14:47.850
I don't know. I guess people just expect me to
00:14:47.850 --> 00:14:49.950
not do cordo moves and stuff like that. And I
00:14:49.950 --> 00:14:52.850
just kind of want to change that. Want to prove
00:14:52.850 --> 00:14:56.269
them wrong. Yeah, exactly. Yeah. I mean, I guess
00:14:56.269 --> 00:14:59.269
you, I feel like you more so have a reputation
00:14:59.269 --> 00:15:02.629
to like try to static it, but then eventually
00:15:02.629 --> 00:15:05.649
you can still do the coordination move. You just
00:15:05.649 --> 00:15:09.950
don't do it to start with. I mean, in some cases,
00:15:09.950 --> 00:15:14.019
maybe, but. In finals in Seoul, the first boulder,
00:15:14.179 --> 00:15:17.580
I just felt so far off of that. I felt like there
00:15:17.580 --> 00:15:19.899
was no possible way I could do it, which was
00:15:19.899 --> 00:15:23.120
really weird. It was like a swing to a press
00:15:23.120 --> 00:15:26.299
and then a paddle finish. And where did you get
00:15:26.299 --> 00:15:29.179
on that one? I got to the last move. It took
00:15:29.179 --> 00:15:31.620
me a while to get up there, though. Yeah, what
00:15:31.620 --> 00:15:34.500
about that one specifically felt weird? Or is
00:15:34.500 --> 00:15:36.519
there a certain type of coordination that you
00:15:36.519 --> 00:15:39.039
feel like you're worse at? Because, I mean, there's
00:15:39.039 --> 00:15:41.720
a lot of different kinds. I don't know when there's
00:15:41.720 --> 00:15:44.159
like so many like complex hand foot movements
00:15:44.159 --> 00:15:46.340
it really like throws me off it's hard to like
00:15:46.340 --> 00:15:50.860
focus on each movement or each move one at a
00:15:50.860 --> 00:15:53.000
time I just kind of like blur everything into
00:15:53.000 --> 00:15:57.340
one so yeah and also the first move for some
00:15:57.340 --> 00:16:00.960
reason just felt really big for me so every time
00:16:00.960 --> 00:16:02.799
I would like get that move I would be scared
00:16:02.799 --> 00:16:04.500
to commit to the last move because I was like
00:16:04.500 --> 00:16:06.720
oh what if I don't make it back to the 10 zone
00:16:07.230 --> 00:16:09.590
Are you one of the shorter climbers? I don't
00:16:09.590 --> 00:16:12.990
actually know your height. I'm 5 '4". Oh, okay.
00:16:13.129 --> 00:16:16.070
So I'm pretty average. Okay. Well, good to know
00:16:16.070 --> 00:16:18.110
that you'll be working on that for next season.
00:16:18.289 --> 00:16:21.230
I hope to see you commit to some more coordination
00:16:21.230 --> 00:16:25.250
moves for next year's bouldering. Yeah, me too.
00:16:25.669 --> 00:16:29.389
And thinking back on like 2025 season, do you
00:16:29.389 --> 00:16:31.190
have any like favorite or least favorite moments?
00:16:31.570 --> 00:16:34.809
I mean, I think my favorite moment was winning.
00:16:35.440 --> 00:16:38.220
Like the World Cup in Madrid. That was pretty
00:16:38.220 --> 00:16:42.159
special to me. I don't know. I've always been
00:16:42.159 --> 00:16:44.259
like characterized as a lead climber. So I guess
00:16:44.259 --> 00:16:46.120
winning like a lead World Cup was pretty cool.
00:16:46.419 --> 00:16:49.419
Yeah. And that was your first lead goal. Yeah.
00:16:49.659 --> 00:16:51.980
Yeah. I think being characterized as a lead climber,
00:16:52.000 --> 00:16:53.940
it's like surprising that was your first lead
00:16:53.940 --> 00:16:56.960
goal. And you had like a couple boulder goals
00:16:56.960 --> 00:16:59.960
before that. Yeah. When you are traveling for
00:16:59.960 --> 00:17:03.750
World Cups. How much time do you get to actually
00:17:03.750 --> 00:17:09.430
enjoy your travel versus just like being nervous
00:17:09.430 --> 00:17:12.650
for a competition? I mean, I wouldn't say I'm
00:17:12.650 --> 00:17:16.450
like super nervous for competitions, but there's
00:17:16.450 --> 00:17:18.369
not like a ton of time to go out and like do
00:17:18.369 --> 00:17:20.769
sightseeing and stuff like that. Because like,
00:17:20.789 --> 00:17:23.430
even if we're like not competing, we have to
00:17:23.430 --> 00:17:25.529
still like maintain our shape during in between
00:17:25.529 --> 00:17:28.789
the competitions. But like, I guess the little
00:17:28.789 --> 00:17:31.259
time that we do have is pretty enjoyable. Yeah,
00:17:31.279 --> 00:17:32.960
do you have like a favorite place to travel in
00:17:32.960 --> 00:17:35.299
the world for World Cups? I mean, we haven't
00:17:35.299 --> 00:17:38.259
had a World Cup there since like, what was it?
00:17:38.500 --> 00:17:44.200
2022, 2023, but probably Japan. Oh, right. I
00:17:44.200 --> 00:17:46.500
love Japan. Yeah, I mean, when you were saying
00:17:46.500 --> 00:17:50.319
that you haven't had a World Cup since a while
00:17:50.319 --> 00:17:53.079
ago, I mean, you didn't even start doing World
00:17:53.079 --> 00:17:56.539
Cups until a few years ago, right? Yeah. Yeah,
00:17:56.539 --> 00:18:01.869
okay. Because the minimum age is 16? Uh, it used
00:18:01.869 --> 00:18:05.170
to be like 15. You had to be like turning 16
00:18:05.170 --> 00:18:06.950
that year. But now it's you have to be turning
00:18:06.950 --> 00:18:09.789
17 that year. I heard rumors that they were even
00:18:09.789 --> 00:18:13.990
raising the age to 18. But I don't think I don't
00:18:13.990 --> 00:18:16.029
think that's official yet. Yeah, I think you're
00:18:16.029 --> 00:18:17.829
definitely one of probably like the youngest
00:18:17.829 --> 00:18:20.970
climbers that I've interviewed so far. So it's
00:18:20.970 --> 00:18:23.269
crazy how far you've come being so young. Thank
00:18:23.269 --> 00:18:27.890
you. What are your goals for 2026? I think honestly
00:18:27.890 --> 00:18:30.130
just like the same that they were this year just
00:18:30.130 --> 00:18:34.769
like continue training going to world cups competing
00:18:34.769 --> 00:18:37.690
and seeing how I do because there's honestly
00:18:37.690 --> 00:18:40.829
not really I mean my big goal is like of course
00:18:40.829 --> 00:18:44.990
LA 2028 so these next couple of seasons are like
00:18:44.990 --> 00:18:47.309
pretty chill for me Speaking of the Olympics,
00:18:47.529 --> 00:18:50.130
I mean, I know a lot of the top athletes took
00:18:50.130 --> 00:18:54.190
a break this year from competing to, like, rest
00:18:54.190 --> 00:18:58.170
from the Olympic season. I mean, like, of course,
00:18:58.190 --> 00:19:00.569
Janja only chose a few competitions to go to.
00:19:01.029 --> 00:19:04.789
How confident do you feel in, like, competing
00:19:04.789 --> 00:19:08.130
against them in the future? I mean, I honestly
00:19:08.130 --> 00:19:10.390
don't think too much about it because I feel
00:19:10.390 --> 00:19:13.269
like I'm not really that competitive with other
00:19:13.269 --> 00:19:15.720
people. I'm more like... competitive with myself
00:19:15.720 --> 00:19:18.700
so like if i do bad at a comp i'm mad at myself
00:19:18.700 --> 00:19:20.920
like not mad that i didn't podium or whatever
00:19:20.920 --> 00:19:23.160
yeah and i guess when you mentioned your goals
00:19:23.160 --> 00:19:26.579
none of it included like a specific medal count
00:19:26.579 --> 00:19:29.759
or podiuming so i guess it's good in that way
00:19:29.759 --> 00:19:34.019
yeah so you don't even think about like who to
00:19:34.019 --> 00:19:36.440
watch out for like i mean especially when it
00:19:36.440 --> 00:19:40.500
comes to getting olympic spots um i mean there's
00:19:40.500 --> 00:19:43.279
probably still only gonna be like two per gender
00:19:43.279 --> 00:19:47.089
per country I mean, it might be one. I heard
00:19:47.089 --> 00:19:51.269
rumors that it's one. Whoa. I guess we'll see.
00:19:52.170 --> 00:19:54.069
Yeah, it's definitely going to be hard to qualify,
00:19:54.250 --> 00:19:56.009
but I'm trying not to think too much about it
00:19:56.009 --> 00:19:59.410
since that's so far ahead in the future. Interesting
00:19:59.410 --> 00:20:02.930
to hear about the one rumors. I don't know if
00:20:02.930 --> 00:20:06.029
it's true, but I heard rumors. Yeah, it's hard
00:20:06.029 --> 00:20:07.970
to get into rumors because I know definitely
00:20:07.970 --> 00:20:12.250
people, yeah, it changes a lot. But I mean, what's
00:20:12.250 --> 00:20:16.329
the... purpose of the one per gender per country
00:20:16.329 --> 00:20:20.190
rumor because that's that yeah that makes it
00:20:20.190 --> 00:20:22.890
really difficult yeah I honestly have no idea
00:20:22.890 --> 00:20:25.809
I cannot tell you how confident would you feel
00:20:25.809 --> 00:20:27.789
if it was like a combined qualifiers like would
00:20:27.789 --> 00:20:32.049
you prefer that I think I would I honestly don't
00:20:32.049 --> 00:20:35.390
know it's I think it's too early to tell but
00:20:35.720 --> 00:20:38.339
I think I do strive more like in combined disciplines
00:20:38.339 --> 00:20:41.059
because I'm like good at both. Do you not have
00:20:41.059 --> 00:20:43.200
like any plan to do the lead season for next
00:20:43.200 --> 00:20:46.299
year? No, I'm pre -qualified for the lead season,
00:20:46.359 --> 00:20:48.319
so I'll still do it, but I just won't train it
00:20:48.319 --> 00:20:52.220
as much as I have been. Okay, so then going into
00:20:52.220 --> 00:20:55.220
what your training looks like, what does your
00:20:55.220 --> 00:20:57.339
training schedule look like? Like number of days
00:20:57.339 --> 00:21:00.640
a week? Hours a day. If you're interested in
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help out non -monetarily, liking, commenting,
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and sharing helps a great deal as well. back
00:21:28.299 --> 00:21:32.160
to the show i climb like five days a week and
00:21:32.160 --> 00:21:35.539
i also swim twice a week and lift like two to
00:21:35.539 --> 00:21:39.119
three times a week but for yeah for climbing
00:21:39.119 --> 00:21:44.519
i would say i'm in the gym like five to six hours
00:21:44.519 --> 00:21:47.779
max maybe seven on longer days then i also do
00:21:47.779 --> 00:21:50.200
some like at home exercises since i live so far
00:21:50.200 --> 00:21:53.079
from the gym but i'm pretty much like working
00:21:53.079 --> 00:21:56.500
out all day I'm surprised that you live so far
00:21:56.500 --> 00:21:59.779
from the gym because yeah I feel like usually
00:21:59.779 --> 00:22:02.539
at this at a certain point at a certain level
00:22:02.539 --> 00:22:05.359
people are like trying to I don't know optimize
00:22:05.359 --> 00:22:07.779
their schedule as much as possible. I really
00:22:07.779 --> 00:22:09.599
just don't have the money to like move out right
00:22:09.599 --> 00:22:12.640
now and I'm trying to like save up for much more
00:22:12.640 --> 00:22:15.059
like needed expenses and stuff like that for
00:22:15.059 --> 00:22:18.339
like traveling and funding my training and stuff
00:22:18.339 --> 00:22:21.269
like that but yeah it takes me like 30 to 40
00:22:21.269 --> 00:22:23.170
minutes to get to the gym every day. Sometimes
00:22:23.170 --> 00:22:26.210
even longer if I want to go to a big, a different
00:22:26.210 --> 00:22:29.109
gym. Is there any like one thing you did that
00:22:29.109 --> 00:22:31.569
you feel like made you level up in your climbing
00:22:31.569 --> 00:22:35.569
ability? Uh, I feel like, I don't know if it
00:22:35.569 --> 00:22:37.910
made me level up, but I feel like the more I
00:22:37.910 --> 00:22:41.150
board climb and the more I spray wall, like the
00:22:41.150 --> 00:22:44.690
stronger I feel. Which I guess makes sense because
00:22:44.690 --> 00:22:47.130
it's just like pure power training. But yeah.
00:22:47.849 --> 00:22:50.349
So I think this offseason, I'm going to be doing
00:22:50.349 --> 00:22:52.829
a lot more of that type of stuff. You feel like
00:22:52.829 --> 00:22:55.329
it helps with comp movement or comp climbing
00:22:55.329 --> 00:22:58.269
too? I don't know. I guess just power boulders
00:22:58.269 --> 00:23:02.809
and feeling strong. I don't really have access
00:23:02.809 --> 00:23:05.150
to a lot of comp boulders and stuff like that.
00:23:05.190 --> 00:23:07.869
They don't really set that here in Dallas. So
00:23:07.869 --> 00:23:10.450
it's hard to train on that type of stuff. So
00:23:10.450 --> 00:23:13.450
a couple of thoughts come to mind. Well, I guess,
00:23:13.509 --> 00:23:17.039
so one, for me, I always feel like... If you
00:23:17.039 --> 00:23:20.200
board climb a lot, you just get really good at
00:23:20.200 --> 00:23:24.240
board climbing. Is that an incorrect take, you
00:23:24.240 --> 00:23:27.180
think? No, I think that's correct. But I feel
00:23:27.180 --> 00:23:29.880
like if you also supplement it with spray walling,
00:23:29.920 --> 00:23:34.039
it could help on power -focused boulders in a
00:23:34.039 --> 00:23:36.339
World Cup. Yeah, I mean, in terms of your gym
00:23:36.339 --> 00:23:40.660
access, are there climbs that are hard enough
00:23:40.660 --> 00:23:43.000
for you? I would say the route setters in the
00:23:43.000 --> 00:23:45.829
DFW area are like... pretty strong so they do
00:23:45.829 --> 00:23:48.089
set some hard stuff for like themselves to work
00:23:48.089 --> 00:23:51.569
on and I do get on those boulders but they're
00:23:51.569 --> 00:23:53.910
just like all commercial style and it's not really
00:23:53.910 --> 00:23:57.029
anything I would see like in a world cup so it's
00:23:57.029 --> 00:24:00.289
like I don't know I guess hard to train in the
00:24:00.289 --> 00:24:03.690
gyms I mean I did used to have access to the
00:24:03.690 --> 00:24:07.349
team Texas training centers but ever since like
00:24:07.349 --> 00:24:09.630
movement bought all the gyms and kind of like
00:24:09.630 --> 00:24:11.490
took over they've been making it like a real
00:24:11.880 --> 00:24:15.539
pain to like get access to those gyms oh okay
00:24:15.539 --> 00:24:19.359
i think leaving up to the soul world cup i've
00:24:19.359 --> 00:24:21.980
been on a spray wall like one time and that was
00:24:21.980 --> 00:24:27.339
in salt lake yeah same it has been like pretty
00:24:27.339 --> 00:24:30.019
difficult to like train maybe you need some contacts
00:24:30.019 --> 00:24:34.099
and in terms of like team texas uh yeah i guess
00:24:34.099 --> 00:24:35.900
like what happened there like you used to have
00:24:35.900 --> 00:24:38.720
access to their training facilities but now you
00:24:38.720 --> 00:24:43.859
don't yeah so like Before movement bought like
00:24:43.859 --> 00:24:47.099
the gyms and everything, I would just like go
00:24:47.099 --> 00:24:49.680
in with one of the coaches and like train for
00:24:49.680 --> 00:24:51.779
like three to four hours or something like that.
00:24:51.880 --> 00:24:55.500
But now movement like has all these like strict
00:24:55.500 --> 00:24:57.519
rules like, oh, you have to have a movement employee
00:24:57.519 --> 00:25:00.619
in here. Oh, you can only go during these times.
00:25:00.779 --> 00:25:04.160
And I don't know, I guess since all a lot of
00:25:04.160 --> 00:25:06.839
my friends have like left movement because they've.
00:25:07.210 --> 00:25:09.230
i don't know i guess just like gotten tired of
00:25:09.230 --> 00:25:12.109
working with them so i just haven't had anyone
00:25:12.109 --> 00:25:15.549
to go into the tcs with yeah i find that surprising
00:25:15.549 --> 00:25:18.970
because i mean usually world cup athletes kind
00:25:18.970 --> 00:25:21.009
of get access to any gym they want to get access
00:25:21.009 --> 00:25:23.890
to right every time we call the higher -ups they're
00:25:23.890 --> 00:25:25.589
like oh yeah we want to help we want to help
00:25:25.589 --> 00:25:28.130
but then they just like don't do anything about
00:25:28.130 --> 00:25:31.230
it they're like yeah i'm sorry we can't give
00:25:31.230 --> 00:25:34.599
you access but like we want to help so like Yeah,
00:25:34.619 --> 00:25:37.160
I don't really get what their viewpoint is. You
00:25:37.160 --> 00:25:40.200
had mentioned that access to training facilities
00:25:40.200 --> 00:25:42.759
and resources makes a big difference with competitions.
00:25:44.440 --> 00:25:47.279
Can you just like elaborate on that a bit? Like,
00:25:47.400 --> 00:25:50.839
how is your access lacking now? And how do you
00:25:50.839 --> 00:25:53.140
feel like it will improve in the future? If you
00:25:53.140 --> 00:25:55.700
have like access to comp style boulders, of course,
00:25:55.720 --> 00:25:58.619
you're going to thrive in that area. If you don't,
00:25:58.619 --> 00:26:01.630
then you're not going to. I mean, back in the
00:26:01.630 --> 00:26:05.349
day, the coaches used to set like pretty hard
00:26:05.349 --> 00:26:08.809
comp style boulders for like the male, a male
00:26:08.809 --> 00:26:11.890
junior categories. And I would get on those type
00:26:11.890 --> 00:26:15.450
of stuff. But now I just haven't had access to
00:26:15.450 --> 00:26:18.210
that in like the past year or so. So it's been
00:26:18.210 --> 00:26:20.269
pretty hard to like train on those style blocks.
00:26:20.809 --> 00:26:23.049
The only time I actually can train on those is
00:26:23.049 --> 00:26:25.349
when I like fly out to Salt Lake. But I can only
00:26:25.349 --> 00:26:27.750
do that like so many times. And so that's why
00:26:27.750 --> 00:26:31.700
you use like spray walling a lot. Well, the training
00:26:31.700 --> 00:26:34.180
center is actually like where the spray wall
00:26:34.180 --> 00:26:36.299
is located and I haven't had access to that.
00:26:36.440 --> 00:26:38.920
So I've pretty much like leading up to Korea,
00:26:38.960 --> 00:26:41.240
I've just pretty much been board climbing and
00:26:41.240 --> 00:26:44.000
climbing out of the gyms. Whoa, really? Yeah,
00:26:44.079 --> 00:26:47.420
I did go to Salt Lake for a week, but yeah, it
00:26:47.420 --> 00:26:50.220
was very minimal. Yeah, I can only imagine because
00:26:50.220 --> 00:26:53.799
I mean, calm climbing is a very specific type
00:26:53.799 --> 00:26:58.529
of movement. Yeah, well, I can't imagine like
00:26:58.529 --> 00:27:01.150
trying to learn that without having access to,
00:27:01.250 --> 00:27:03.769
I don't know, maybe like the hold styles and
00:27:03.769 --> 00:27:06.049
like the specific setting. Yeah, I guess now
00:27:06.049 --> 00:27:09.470
you're like static style makes a lot more sense
00:27:09.470 --> 00:27:12.910
now to me. Yeah, pretty much like all that I
00:27:12.910 --> 00:27:15.710
focus on. Well, so yeah, with your upcoming like
00:27:15.710 --> 00:27:18.589
2026 goal of focusing on bouldering and coordination
00:27:18.589 --> 00:27:21.809
moves, how do you plan to get that experience?
00:27:22.430 --> 00:27:25.960
I think I'll be flying. down or up to Salt Lake
00:27:25.960 --> 00:27:30.259
a lot more often. And also one of the coaches
00:27:30.259 --> 00:27:32.779
is opening a new training center in the Dallas
00:27:32.779 --> 00:27:35.079
area. I can't really like talk too much about
00:27:35.079 --> 00:27:37.460
it, but I think it'll be a good thing. Okay.
00:27:37.500 --> 00:27:41.779
So then moving on into, I guess, a little bit
00:27:41.779 --> 00:27:47.380
of your lifestyle. I mean, you just graduated
00:27:47.380 --> 00:27:50.500
high school, right? Yeah, I did in the spring.
00:27:51.049 --> 00:27:52.990
were you just doing like public school or was
00:27:52.990 --> 00:27:57.269
it like homeschooling it's a public online school
00:27:57.269 --> 00:27:59.509
so it's pretty much like the exact same thing
00:27:59.509 --> 00:28:01.150
that you would be doing in a public school but
00:28:01.150 --> 00:28:03.470
all online I've been doing it since seventh grade
00:28:03.470 --> 00:28:06.130
so yeah does that make it easier to like balance
00:28:06.130 --> 00:28:08.890
school and climbing at the same time uh yeah
00:28:08.890 --> 00:28:11.230
definitely I mean like for like the assignments
00:28:11.230 --> 00:28:14.450
we still have due dates but we can like work
00:28:14.450 --> 00:28:17.109
as far ahead as we want or like whenever we want
00:28:17.109 --> 00:28:20.059
throughout the day so It's pretty flexible. Do
00:28:20.059 --> 00:28:23.240
you plan on doing like further education or college
00:28:23.240 --> 00:28:25.079
or you're just going to be focusing on climbing
00:28:25.079 --> 00:28:28.700
like the upcoming year? Definitely further education.
00:28:28.779 --> 00:28:31.960
I was going to start college and like this month,
00:28:31.960 --> 00:28:35.319
actually, but I decided to just like take a gap
00:28:35.319 --> 00:28:38.640
semester just to like fully relax and recover
00:28:38.640 --> 00:28:41.500
after the season. But I'll be starting college
00:28:41.500 --> 00:28:45.720
next year in the spring. Exciting. What are you
00:28:45.720 --> 00:28:48.519
like? What's your major? Uh, digital marketing.
00:28:48.779 --> 00:28:50.500
That was something I was considering getting
00:28:50.500 --> 00:28:54.519
into and then it didn't work out. So I'm back
00:28:54.519 --> 00:28:57.220
to my usual stuff, but, uh, are you like going
00:28:57.220 --> 00:28:59.859
to stay at home doing that? Or I know a lot of,
00:28:59.859 --> 00:29:03.740
uh, US comp climbers end up moving to the Salt
00:29:03.740 --> 00:29:07.220
Lake area for better training facilities. I honestly
00:29:07.220 --> 00:29:09.460
don't know yet. I really want to move to Salt
00:29:09.460 --> 00:29:10.980
Lake, but I just don't really have the money
00:29:10.980 --> 00:29:15.099
to do that right now. Don't really get a lot
00:29:15.099 --> 00:29:19.920
of funding from sponsors, but yeah, I guess we'll
00:29:19.920 --> 00:29:21.799
see. For right now, I'll be staying at home and
00:29:21.799 --> 00:29:24.900
doing school. Do you feel like, well, so first
00:29:24.900 --> 00:29:27.019
of all, like USA Climbing doesn't provide any
00:29:27.019 --> 00:29:30.819
like stipend for winning comps or being on the
00:29:30.819 --> 00:29:33.759
US team or anything like that? No, they do fund
00:29:33.759 --> 00:29:36.759
like most of our big expenses, like flights and
00:29:36.759 --> 00:29:38.940
hotels and stuff like that, but that's pretty
00:29:38.940 --> 00:29:43.230
much it. And in terms of like... Making money
00:29:43.230 --> 00:29:46.670
from winning competitions that you go to, it's
00:29:46.670 --> 00:29:51.509
not much. It's very minimal, yeah. Definitely
00:29:51.509 --> 00:29:56.289
not enough to live off of. I know a lot of competitors
00:29:56.289 --> 00:30:00.230
in the U .S. end up going to local comps to make
00:30:00.230 --> 00:30:03.630
a bit more money. I feel like you would be kind
00:30:03.630 --> 00:30:07.390
of a shoo -in for getting first place. So is
00:30:07.390 --> 00:30:10.549
that something you do much? I mean, I used to
00:30:10.549 --> 00:30:13.309
do those in the past, but I don't know. It's
00:30:13.309 --> 00:30:15.529
just after such a long season, I'm just like
00:30:15.529 --> 00:30:18.549
so tired. And like the last thing I want to be
00:30:18.549 --> 00:30:20.529
doing is like traveling and doing another comp.
00:30:21.069 --> 00:30:23.410
I just want to be like relaxing and maybe go
00:30:23.410 --> 00:30:26.450
outdoor climbing. So do you have like a preference
00:30:26.450 --> 00:30:28.769
for outdoor climbing? I don't think I see much
00:30:28.769 --> 00:30:33.170
info about your like outdoor sense. I definitely
00:30:33.170 --> 00:30:35.390
do enjoy it a lot, but I just don't get outside
00:30:35.390 --> 00:30:37.329
that much since I'm like pretty much competing
00:30:37.329 --> 00:30:41.099
the entire year. Or like training for it. But
00:30:41.099 --> 00:30:44.180
yeah, I might do a little bit this like coming
00:30:44.180 --> 00:30:46.539
month or next month. Yeah, I guess now would
00:30:46.539 --> 00:30:49.119
be the time since you're taking a break. Where
00:30:49.119 --> 00:30:51.799
are you planning on going outside? We're thinking
00:30:51.799 --> 00:30:55.880
about maybe rifle. Just like a fun trip. Maybe
00:30:55.880 --> 00:30:59.039
not like try anything super hard. Like a family
00:30:59.039 --> 00:31:03.519
trip? Yeah. So you don't have any like big ascents
00:31:03.519 --> 00:31:06.819
that you're planning on doing outside? Not really.
00:31:06.980 --> 00:31:09.099
I'm kind of just going with the flow right now.
00:31:09.440 --> 00:31:12.680
I mean, I was working on Golden Ticket last year,
00:31:12.740 --> 00:31:15.880
but I really don't think I'm in shape for that
00:31:15.880 --> 00:31:18.140
route right now. Okay. If I'm being completely
00:31:18.140 --> 00:31:22.480
honest. What is Golden Ticket? It's 14C in the
00:31:22.480 --> 00:31:25.359
red, although I do think it's harder than that.
00:31:26.240 --> 00:31:29.380
I sent Pure Imagination, which is to the left
00:31:29.380 --> 00:31:32.980
of it, third go on that trip, and that one's
00:31:32.980 --> 00:31:36.140
also rated 14C. And then I like got on golden
00:31:36.140 --> 00:31:39.299
ticket and it felt like at least two or three
00:31:39.299 --> 00:31:43.759
grades harder, maybe two grades. So at least
00:31:43.759 --> 00:31:47.440
for me, I feel, yeah, I feel like for that route,
00:31:47.539 --> 00:31:50.559
it's a lot easier if you're taller. For me, it's
00:31:50.559 --> 00:31:53.220
hard to conceptualize what it means to be in
00:31:53.220 --> 00:31:58.519
shape for a certain route or for a certain outdoor
00:31:58.519 --> 00:32:02.019
bouldering season versus indoor competition bouldering
00:32:02.019 --> 00:32:06.039
season. What does that mean to you? It may not
00:32:06.039 --> 00:32:08.119
seem like it, but I feel like my endurance is
00:32:08.119 --> 00:32:10.960
not that great right now because I haven't really
00:32:10.960 --> 00:32:14.640
been training it that much. Maybe if I train
00:32:14.640 --> 00:32:16.740
it a little bit, I could get into shape pretty
00:32:16.740 --> 00:32:20.769
fast. I don't know. It's not really something
00:32:20.769 --> 00:32:23.470
that I'm like too focused on. Well, best of luck
00:32:23.470 --> 00:32:26.970
to your outdoor adventures. Thank you. Outside
00:32:26.970 --> 00:32:29.349
of climbing in school, do you feel like you have
00:32:29.349 --> 00:32:32.650
time for any other hobbies? I mean, honestly,
00:32:32.829 --> 00:32:37.269
not really. Like I feel like earlier in the year,
00:32:37.289 --> 00:32:39.769
all I was doing was just like climbing in school.
00:32:39.869 --> 00:32:41.730
And now that I have a bunch of free time, I just
00:32:41.730 --> 00:32:43.349
don't really don't really know what to do with
00:32:43.349 --> 00:32:46.470
myself. Kind of just like sitting at home doing
00:32:46.470 --> 00:32:50.230
nothing. Oh, really? Yeah. You haven't like picked
00:32:50.230 --> 00:32:53.190
up anything new? I mean, I've been like lifting
00:32:53.190 --> 00:32:55.730
and stuff like that, but not climbing. Just like
00:32:55.730 --> 00:32:59.829
scrolling online or? Yeah, taking naps from the
00:32:59.829 --> 00:33:02.529
jet lag. Right. Yeah, that makes sense. I would
00:33:02.529 --> 00:33:05.269
recommend, I recommend this to everyone. I don't
00:33:05.269 --> 00:33:08.529
know why. I really like crocheting. I'll have
00:33:08.529 --> 00:33:11.849
to try that out. Yeah. A lot of my friends do
00:33:11.849 --> 00:33:15.130
crocheting. I started it with one of those, I
00:33:15.130 --> 00:33:16.990
don't know if you've ever seen like the ads,
00:33:17.170 --> 00:33:21.190
but it's called like WooWools and it has like
00:33:21.190 --> 00:33:23.750
kids. Oh yeah, I've seen that, yeah. Yeah, that's
00:33:23.750 --> 00:33:26.170
how I like started it. I don't even know why
00:33:26.170 --> 00:33:28.329
I talk about it so much. I don't even do it right
00:33:28.329 --> 00:33:30.309
now because I don't have time for it. But it's
00:33:30.309 --> 00:33:33.490
like when I do have time, I think I want to get
00:33:33.490 --> 00:33:36.410
into that. Yeah, I'll have to check it out. Okay,
00:33:36.490 --> 00:33:40.019
so. Getting into some of the audience questions,
00:33:40.319 --> 00:33:44.380
in some professions, a person can dislike or
00:33:44.380 --> 00:33:46.700
at least like not love their job, but still excel
00:33:46.700 --> 00:33:51.160
and spend a lot of time at work. How applicable
00:33:51.160 --> 00:33:54.019
do you feel like that is to climbing? Like if
00:33:54.019 --> 00:33:56.960
someone put in a lot of work, but weren't necessarily
00:33:56.960 --> 00:33:59.579
passionate about it, do you feel like they could
00:33:59.579 --> 00:34:03.779
still be at an elite level? I don't know. I don't
00:34:03.779 --> 00:34:07.519
really think so. I feel like you can't. I feel
00:34:07.519 --> 00:34:09.920
like it's not possible to spend that much time
00:34:09.920 --> 00:34:12.380
in a gym and put that much effort if you're not
00:34:12.380 --> 00:34:15.960
passionate about it. I mean, honestly, I don't
00:34:15.960 --> 00:34:17.900
think I'm the best person to ask because I love
00:34:17.900 --> 00:34:22.539
climbing, but I would think not. Do you remember
00:34:22.539 --> 00:34:26.440
moments during training where you just didn't
00:34:26.440 --> 00:34:29.079
really feel like doing it anymore? I mean, there's
00:34:29.079 --> 00:34:31.480
definitely times in my training where I'm frustrated
00:34:31.480 --> 00:34:37.570
because I'm not where I want to be at. I feel
00:34:37.570 --> 00:34:43.110
like there was never a time where I never enjoyed
00:34:43.110 --> 00:34:46.469
it, I guess. I don't know. I just, like, enjoy
00:34:46.469 --> 00:34:50.269
the grind. I enjoy, like, the pain. Yeah. You
00:34:50.269 --> 00:34:52.409
never had a moment where it was just like, oh,
00:34:52.409 --> 00:34:54.190
I feel like I want to quit climbing altogether?
00:34:54.909 --> 00:34:56.889
I mean, maybe after a comp, but that was just,
00:34:56.929 --> 00:34:59.369
like, for, like, 10, 15 minutes, and then I'm
00:34:59.369 --> 00:35:01.550
fine. I mean, what about, like, the training
00:35:01.550 --> 00:35:03.730
portion? I know a lot of athletes say that they
00:35:03.730 --> 00:35:06.670
also love, like, the training as well. Yeah,
00:35:06.690 --> 00:35:10.469
I really enjoy training. I actually find it more
00:35:10.469 --> 00:35:13.750
fun than comp sometimes. Oh, interesting. Okay.
00:35:13.829 --> 00:35:17.670
Just like the getting stronger portion? I think
00:35:17.670 --> 00:35:20.070
a lot of people have different ideas of what
00:35:20.070 --> 00:35:23.230
training entails. Is that just strength training
00:35:23.230 --> 00:35:27.949
or board stuff? Or what is training? I don't
00:35:27.949 --> 00:35:30.090
know. There's just a lot. Just getting stronger
00:35:30.090 --> 00:35:32.880
on the board and also... When I'm doing endurance
00:35:32.880 --> 00:35:35.559
on ropes, it's really easy for me to get locked
00:35:35.559 --> 00:35:39.099
in. And it feels like I'm just not getting pumped
00:35:39.099 --> 00:35:41.519
at all. And I can just keep climbing forever.
00:35:42.579 --> 00:35:46.320
So that's really fun. Okay. Good to know. Well,
00:35:46.420 --> 00:35:50.380
so earlier you had also mentioned that you don't
00:35:50.380 --> 00:35:53.599
really feel nervous for comps. I kind of wonder
00:35:53.599 --> 00:35:56.500
what goes through your mind leading up to and
00:35:56.500 --> 00:36:00.199
during a comp. I honestly... don't have much
00:36:00.199 --> 00:36:02.820
to say about that because I don't I try not to
00:36:02.820 --> 00:36:06.179
think too much about comps and like I like mentioned
00:36:06.179 --> 00:36:08.119
earlier I'm not super competitive with other
00:36:08.119 --> 00:36:11.420
people I'm more like competitive with myself
00:36:11.420 --> 00:36:13.860
so I guess there's not as much pressure there
00:36:13.860 --> 00:36:17.079
I'm just like trying to perform to the best of
00:36:17.079 --> 00:36:19.920
my abilities and like whatever happens happens
00:36:19.920 --> 00:36:25.199
okay so like if I'm mad or upset after a comp
00:36:25.199 --> 00:36:27.780
it's like because I didn't perform the way I
00:36:27.780 --> 00:36:31.019
want wanted to or like as well as I knew I'm
00:36:31.019 --> 00:36:35.239
capable of I mean yeah that makes sense um I
00:36:35.239 --> 00:36:38.559
know that mindset is a lot of thing is like a
00:36:38.559 --> 00:36:40.800
big thing that a lot of athletes struggle with
00:36:40.800 --> 00:36:44.179
and so especially as a younger competitor do
00:36:44.179 --> 00:36:46.599
you feel like you've had struggles with your
00:36:46.599 --> 00:36:50.280
mindset at all during competitions or like where
00:36:50.280 --> 00:36:52.980
you get into a negative space like during a competition
00:36:52.980 --> 00:36:56.469
I would say so yeah like when I'm not able to
00:36:56.469 --> 00:36:58.429
do a boulder it kind of does get into my head
00:36:58.429 --> 00:37:01.170
especially when it's like a boulder I know that
00:37:01.170 --> 00:37:05.050
I can do but I was like just too timid to like
00:37:05.050 --> 00:37:07.449
give it my all or like on a lead route I'm like
00:37:07.449 --> 00:37:10.190
getting to the head wall and I'm thinking oh
00:37:10.190 --> 00:37:12.769
what if my foot slips and that kind of like throws
00:37:12.769 --> 00:37:16.570
me off how do you like get back into the right
00:37:16.570 --> 00:37:18.989
mindset or get back get your head back into the
00:37:18.989 --> 00:37:21.929
game I honestly don't really have anything right
00:37:21.929 --> 00:37:23.510
now it's kind of something I'm still working
00:37:23.510 --> 00:37:27.239
on has it ever like ruined an entire comp for
00:37:27.239 --> 00:37:29.739
you like you maybe like on a first boulder you
00:37:29.739 --> 00:37:31.639
came out and it didn't go the way you wanted
00:37:31.639 --> 00:37:33.400
and then it kind of affected the rest of the
00:37:33.400 --> 00:37:36.940
competition yeah for sure definitely like Innsbruck
00:37:36.940 --> 00:37:40.460
finals was a big one because like looking at
00:37:40.460 --> 00:37:43.519
the boulders I felt pretty confident that I could
00:37:43.519 --> 00:37:47.059
do them and then I got out and I was trying the
00:37:47.059 --> 00:37:49.539
first boulder and I just had no idea what to
00:37:49.539 --> 00:37:52.320
do and it really frustrated me and I kind of
00:37:52.320 --> 00:37:54.389
just like threw off the whole round Yeah, do
00:37:54.389 --> 00:37:57.510
you remember what you were feeling like or what
00:37:57.510 --> 00:37:59.650
went through your mind the rest of that finals?
00:38:00.050 --> 00:38:02.429
I don't know. I think I was just so focused on
00:38:02.429 --> 00:38:06.610
like, oh, I didn't do the first boulder because
00:38:06.610 --> 00:38:10.409
I had no idea what to do. I was just so frustrated
00:38:10.409 --> 00:38:12.389
and so hard on myself that I couldn't really
00:38:12.389 --> 00:38:14.650
focus on giving it my all for the next three
00:38:14.650 --> 00:38:18.889
boulders. Even on the slab, which was a pretty
00:38:18.889 --> 00:38:22.429
easy boulder, I was just so frustrated that it
00:38:22.429 --> 00:38:24.639
took me like... three or four attempts to do
00:38:24.639 --> 00:38:27.699
it. I guess in those comps, I mean, you say that
00:38:27.699 --> 00:38:30.599
it's always just about like your own performance.
00:38:30.619 --> 00:38:32.960
Do you like pay attention to if other people
00:38:32.960 --> 00:38:36.980
are topping or getting zones or anything like
00:38:36.980 --> 00:38:39.539
that? Maybe a little bit, but it doesn't really
00:38:39.539 --> 00:38:42.960
affect me that much. So like if you say you like
00:38:42.960 --> 00:38:46.199
know that you need to top a boulder because other
00:38:46.199 --> 00:38:49.260
people have, there was like a window of opening
00:38:49.260 --> 00:38:52.409
for you to. take a gold or something like that.
00:38:52.449 --> 00:38:56.650
Does it motivate you more to try harder? I mean,
00:38:56.670 --> 00:38:59.269
I honestly don't know. I always try to try as
00:38:59.269 --> 00:39:03.289
hard as I possibly can, even if I'm like not
00:39:03.289 --> 00:39:06.730
going to win anything. So it's hard to say. Okay.
00:39:06.789 --> 00:39:08.670
So yeah, going back to some of the audience questions
00:39:08.670 --> 00:39:12.150
or the last two, they're both like mindset related.
00:39:12.969 --> 00:39:15.010
Have you ever worked with a sports psychologist
00:39:15.010 --> 00:39:18.809
and what are your thoughts on it? I started working
00:39:18.809 --> 00:39:24.909
with one recently this past month, but I don't
00:39:24.909 --> 00:39:28.090
know. It's honestly kind of weird for me. How
00:39:28.090 --> 00:39:32.329
so? I think I'm just not used to it, but I'm
00:39:32.329 --> 00:39:34.869
a pretty introverted person, so I'm not really
00:39:34.869 --> 00:39:37.570
used to talking and opening up to people. So
00:39:37.570 --> 00:39:40.170
it's kind of weird for me. How do you feel like
00:39:40.170 --> 00:39:43.650
it's going? Have you learned any strategies that
00:39:43.650 --> 00:39:45.630
you feel like have been helpful or things that
00:39:45.630 --> 00:39:48.349
you might want to do? take forward i mean honestly
00:39:48.349 --> 00:39:53.070
like not really damn okay but just blast the
00:39:53.070 --> 00:39:57.949
psychologist yeah sorry my bad but yeah i don't
00:39:57.949 --> 00:40:00.530
know well hopefully i mean it's only a month
00:40:00.530 --> 00:40:04.130
so wait it out and see yeah hopefully you'll
00:40:04.130 --> 00:40:09.130
get some uh helpful tips there and so the last
00:40:09.130 --> 00:40:12.130
one the last audience question was how do you
00:40:12.130 --> 00:40:14.090
manage pressure when it starts to get to you
00:40:14.519 --> 00:40:17.219
I don't know. I honestly feel like I don't feel
00:40:17.219 --> 00:40:21.019
pressure at comps, which is kind of a weird thing.
00:40:21.119 --> 00:40:25.960
But, like, I don't know. I guess when I, like,
00:40:25.960 --> 00:40:29.760
don't top a boulder, I can, like, get really
00:40:29.760 --> 00:40:35.559
hard on myself. But I guess I put the pressure
00:40:35.559 --> 00:40:37.639
on myself more than I, like, feel it from other
00:40:37.639 --> 00:40:40.480
people. Yeah, I mean, now that you've won, like,
00:40:40.519 --> 00:40:44.909
a few medals and golds do you feel like you have
00:40:44.909 --> 00:40:47.570
more expectations for yourself or like are you
00:40:47.570 --> 00:40:49.429
putting more pressure on yourself to perform
00:40:49.429 --> 00:40:54.349
and podium i mean not really i kind of like yeah
00:40:54.349 --> 00:40:57.929
i'm pretty chill okay that seems like a good
00:40:57.929 --> 00:41:00.510
way to go about it yeah i mean i guess especially
00:41:00.510 --> 00:41:02.969
since you mentioned like the next couple years
00:41:02.969 --> 00:41:06.210
it's not olympic season so it's just kind of
00:41:06.210 --> 00:41:09.789
like a fun time yeah i mean of course i want
00:41:09.789 --> 00:41:12.369
to like podium and win but like if i don't then
00:41:12.369 --> 00:41:16.530
I guess it's fine as long as I'm climbing strong.
00:41:16.769 --> 00:41:18.949
One of the healthier mindsets I've heard about
00:41:18.949 --> 00:41:23.610
competing. So do you like competition style boulders?
00:41:24.449 --> 00:41:29.030
I do. Yeah, I do really enjoy competing and being
00:41:29.030 --> 00:41:31.489
out on the stage and trying hard and stuff like
00:41:31.489 --> 00:41:35.469
that, but definitely need to work on those comp
00:41:35.469 --> 00:41:39.690
style moves. Another one. Again, about like having
00:41:39.690 --> 00:41:41.969
a lot of endurance and doing lead. Do you have
00:41:41.969 --> 00:41:45.730
any tips for lead climbing and endurance? I would
00:41:45.730 --> 00:41:49.170
just say like, honestly, just like climb a lot
00:41:49.170 --> 00:41:53.989
for pure endurance. Just like do like a bunch
00:41:53.989 --> 00:41:56.050
of routes. That's what I do when I'm just trying
00:41:56.050 --> 00:41:58.230
to build like a base endurance. I do like a minimum
00:41:58.230 --> 00:42:00.829
of like 15 to 20 routes, like I said earlier.
00:42:01.429 --> 00:42:04.449
Okay. You don't have like a endurance hangboarding
00:42:04.449 --> 00:42:08.630
routine? No. I do hangboard, but not for like
00:42:08.630 --> 00:42:11.150
endurance, just for pure finger strength. And
00:42:11.150 --> 00:42:14.610
so again, going back to you having a more like
00:42:14.610 --> 00:42:19.449
static climbing style. I know a lot of like gym
00:42:19.449 --> 00:42:22.449
climbers also don't really like big coordination
00:42:22.449 --> 00:42:25.449
moves or dynamic moves. So this might be really
00:42:25.449 --> 00:42:29.809
relatable to them. And you still manage to excel
00:42:29.809 --> 00:42:33.250
at like coordination moves in a static way too.
00:42:34.880 --> 00:42:37.619
Any tips for people with a more static and controlled
00:42:37.619 --> 00:42:41.179
style as they struggle on moves that ask for
00:42:41.179 --> 00:42:45.519
more dynamic movement? I mean, honestly, I would
00:42:45.519 --> 00:42:49.079
just say commit to the jump, commit to the quarto
00:42:49.079 --> 00:42:52.500
move, and eventually you're going to learn the
00:42:52.500 --> 00:42:55.920
movement and dial down the move, even if it takes
00:42:55.920 --> 00:42:58.980
you longer than maybe a more powerful climber
00:42:58.980 --> 00:43:02.150
would take on it. So you actually do not suggest
00:43:02.150 --> 00:43:04.969
people to follow your climbing style and try
00:43:04.969 --> 00:43:08.070
to beta break a dino? No, don't do that. Okay.
00:43:08.230 --> 00:43:10.969
Okay. Good to know. I mean, you could do both,
00:43:10.969 --> 00:43:14.750
honestly. Do the boulder twice. Okay. Well, people
00:43:14.750 --> 00:43:17.289
are going to hate to hear that one. Yeah. Yeah.
00:43:17.329 --> 00:43:19.809
Work on your weaknesses, I guess. And you'll
00:43:19.809 --> 00:43:23.349
be the leader for that as you work on your bouldering
00:43:23.349 --> 00:43:27.250
for 2026. Yeah, hopefully. Okay. And really quick
00:43:27.250 --> 00:43:32.719
last one. With your unique climbing style, does
00:43:32.719 --> 00:43:34.940
it make it difficult for you to collaborate with
00:43:34.940 --> 00:43:37.300
other athletes when you guys are previewing boulders
00:43:37.300 --> 00:43:40.079
or lead? I mean, honestly, most of the time,
00:43:40.079 --> 00:43:42.980
I feel like the beta is pretty straightforward.
00:43:43.159 --> 00:43:46.360
So we do agree with most of the movement, most
00:43:46.360 --> 00:43:51.099
of the beta. But I also don't really read the
00:43:51.099 --> 00:43:53.400
route with anyone usually because I'm pretty
00:43:53.400 --> 00:43:57.360
introverted. So I'm too shy to walk up to other
00:43:57.360 --> 00:44:01.000
people. ask about beta and stuff like that but
00:44:01.000 --> 00:44:03.260
it's something i'm trying to work on people don't
00:44:03.260 --> 00:44:04.940
like come up to you and try to ask for your beta
00:44:04.940 --> 00:44:08.420
no not really i mean yeah i guess i don't actually
00:44:08.420 --> 00:44:12.000
know what people are talking about when they're
00:44:12.000 --> 00:44:14.519
going through it like they just read it together
00:44:14.519 --> 00:44:17.360
or are they ever trying to like get specific
00:44:17.360 --> 00:44:20.880
info about how you're gonna do a climb i mean
00:44:20.880 --> 00:44:23.420
maybe like specific info on the more like complex
00:44:23.420 --> 00:44:26.239
movements so like a lead route is structured
00:44:26.239 --> 00:44:29.000
it's like pretty easy climbing and then maybe
00:44:29.000 --> 00:44:33.000
like a hard move and then like a powerful steep
00:44:33.000 --> 00:44:36.659
section and then like a slow finish on the headwall
00:44:36.659 --> 00:44:40.599
so like most of the time we would be like talking
00:44:40.599 --> 00:44:42.760
through the crux of the lead route are there
00:44:42.760 --> 00:44:44.820
certain athletes you're happy to see with you
00:44:44.820 --> 00:44:47.420
in finals because you feel like you think alike
00:44:47.420 --> 00:44:50.260
or climb alike and then you can collaborate better
00:44:50.260 --> 00:44:53.800
with them uh i mean honestly It's always fun
00:44:53.800 --> 00:44:56.019
to get to compete against all these girls because
00:44:56.019 --> 00:44:58.059
they're all super strong and super cool. But
00:44:58.059 --> 00:45:01.360
I think I'd have to say Jenny Buckley because
00:45:01.360 --> 00:45:03.619
she's one of my closest friends. So it's always
00:45:03.619 --> 00:45:06.760
cool to get to compete with her. Oh, okay. That's
00:45:06.760 --> 00:45:08.760
good to know. Yeah, she's so nice. I talked to
00:45:08.760 --> 00:45:12.119
her a little bit. Yeah, she's super fun to talk
00:45:12.119 --> 00:45:15.260
to. Yeah. Do you feel like you guys have similar
00:45:15.260 --> 00:45:18.739
climbing styles? Definitely not. She's a super
00:45:18.739 --> 00:45:21.940
dynamic climber. Like, complete opposites. I
00:45:21.940 --> 00:45:24.139
guess of, like, the other competitors, who do
00:45:24.139 --> 00:45:28.320
you feel like is most similar to you? I mean,
00:45:28.519 --> 00:45:32.559
I don't know. Probably the lead climbers. Maybe
00:45:32.559 --> 00:45:36.300
Chaeyeon Seo. Maybe, like, Imori, too. Although
00:45:36.300 --> 00:45:39.000
she is a lot shorter, so that might change things
00:45:39.000 --> 00:45:42.099
a bit. I mean, Chaeyeon is pretty good at bouldering,
00:45:42.099 --> 00:45:44.639
too, so I'd probably say her. Yeah, she also,
00:45:44.699 --> 00:45:47.219
like, went back and worked a lot on her bouldering.
00:45:47.750 --> 00:45:51.909
Yeah, she's super strong. Yeah. Well, I hope
00:45:51.909 --> 00:45:54.289
that it works out for you next season. I hope
00:45:54.289 --> 00:45:56.889
to see you do a lot more coordination moves and
00:45:56.889 --> 00:46:00.949
not feel too scared of them. I think that's all
00:46:00.949 --> 00:46:04.650
the questions I had for today then. Do you have
00:46:04.650 --> 00:46:07.630
any like last minute words of wisdom that you
00:46:07.630 --> 00:46:10.690
want to get out there for like maybe people who
00:46:10.690 --> 00:46:13.849
are trying to get into climbing or comp climbers?
00:46:14.110 --> 00:46:17.380
I mean, I don't know. I guess like. Keep training
00:46:17.380 --> 00:46:20.739
hard and having fun. Enjoy the process. All right.
00:46:20.760 --> 00:46:23.159
Cool. Anything else that you might want to shout
00:46:23.159 --> 00:46:25.159
out or let people know where they can find you?
00:46:25.559 --> 00:46:29.679
Get like sponsors? I mean, my Instagram is Annie
00:46:29.679 --> 00:46:34.219
.Sanders with an extra S at the end. But yeah,
00:46:34.340 --> 00:46:37.440
that's pretty much my main social media. I'm
00:46:37.440 --> 00:46:39.739
also on Red Note, actually. Oh, really? Annie
00:46:39.739 --> 00:46:44.579
.Sanders. Yeah. Okay. Red Note is like the Chinese?
00:46:44.579 --> 00:46:48.090
The Chinese TikTok. Yeah. Okay. why red note
00:46:48.090 --> 00:46:53.030
i have like a lot of fans in asia and china so
00:46:53.030 --> 00:46:56.050
i don't know a couple friends mentioned to me
00:46:56.050 --> 00:46:57.849
that it might be like a good idea to start a
00:46:57.849 --> 00:47:00.570
social media platform on there or a social media
00:47:00.570 --> 00:47:04.250
account okay gotcha okay sounds good well i will
00:47:04.250 --> 00:47:06.510
link those below hopefully i can find the red
00:47:06.510 --> 00:47:08.730
note one i've never had anyone try to share their
00:47:08.730 --> 00:47:12.090
red notes so i'll take a look there Yeah, that's
00:47:12.090 --> 00:47:14.570
all I have then. Thank you again. It was amazing
00:47:14.570 --> 00:47:17.389
to talk to you. Yeah, thank you. Thank you so
00:47:17.389 --> 00:47:19.449
much for making it to the end of the podcast.
00:47:19.849 --> 00:47:22.269
Don't forget to like and subscribe if you enjoyed.
00:47:22.489 --> 00:47:26.070
Otherwise, you are a super big climber. If you're
00:47:26.070 --> 00:47:28.510
listening on a podcasting platform, I'd appreciate
00:47:28.510 --> 00:47:31.230
if you rate it five stars and you can continue
00:47:31.230 --> 00:47:34.010
the discussion on the free competition climbing
00:47:34.010 --> 00:47:37.010
discord linked in the description. Thanks again
00:47:37.010 --> 00:47:37.489
for listening.
