64: Ella Fisher, Upcoming USA Lead Climber

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I don't get a lot of practice on the holds that

00:00:02.660 --> 00:00:05.459
they set with. A lot of times this season, it's

00:00:05.459 --> 00:00:08.339
been my first time ever grabbing certain holds.

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I'm like, let me just go and see what it feels

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like. I think that there's some people that being

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around a lot of strong people, it makes them

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more motivated and it makes them want to push

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themselves a lot harder. For me, I just feel

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like every training is stressful. Everything...

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Feels like a competition. There was a period

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of my life where basically every time I ate,

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like I would feel so, so sick. And so I did have

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like basically two years where I wasn't able

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to train like how I wanted to. That's like traveling,

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man. You think like, oh, it's so fun. You're

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like getting to go to all these places and then

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you're in Schwandorf. Welcome to another episode

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of the That's Not Real Climbing podcast. I'm

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your host, Jinni, and I'm excited to introduce

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my guest for today, Ella Fisher. Ella is a lead

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climber on Team USA who made her first World

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Series finals earlier this year in Prague. In

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this episode, we'll learn about how she climbs

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the same lead routes all year round to train

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in Arizona, why she doesn't want to move to Salt

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Lake City despite that, how a simple vitamin

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deficiency wrecked her body for a whole year,

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and how she went from placing 40th in World Cups

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to making semis and finals in just one year.

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I hope you enjoy this episode with Ella. Please

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pardon this brief intermission, but let me tell

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Now back to the show. How are you doing today?

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Are you like preparing for any competitions coming

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up? We're getting ready to leave for Coper. in,

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I want to say two weeks. Okay. Yeah. It's crazy.

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It's like the season's flying by. Kind of, but

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as like a viewer, it's been kind of dead for

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the past, I feel like month or so. Yeah, that's

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fair. How has your season been so far? You had

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a really strong start. I think it's been really

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fun. I don't know. This is my first like full

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season. So it's definitely like, I think there's

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a little bit of a learning curve, just like.

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Getting used to being away from home for so long

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and I don't know, just like so much competing.

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It's there's not many breaks. Well, like the

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European leg, it's like every week it feels like

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there's more stress and more competing. And I've

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never really done so many comps in a row before.

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Yeah. How many like back to back was it? I'm

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trying to see. I mean, it wasn't even like. The

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Boulders had three weekends in a row. Exactly.

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I remember that. It's crazy. But we we had like,

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I don't know, I want to say a week and a half

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in between Prague and Innsbruck and then two

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and a half weeks between Innsbruck and Chamonix.

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So like it doesn't seem like it's that wouldn't

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seem like it'd be that crazy. But just I feel

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like you get used to doing a comp and then you

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can. you have like a month or something in between,

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just if you're doing the regular USAC season,

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even in youth. So it's like, I do think it feels

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a little bit different. There's almost like no

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time to process what you just did because you're

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like, okay, I'm on to the next thing, which is

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a little bit different. Yeah, I mean, like what

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happens in those breaks for like a week and a

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half, two and a half? Are you just like thinking

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about the next comp the whole time so you kind

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of can't like turn off? Kind of. It's sort of

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just like, what can I do to get myself prepared

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for the next one? So regardless of whether you

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do well or you don't do well, it's like kind

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of just have to leave it in the past and like

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move on and get back in training. Try to refocus.

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Well, I guess there's like not much training

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you can do in two weeks. Yeah. I think it's just

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like trying to maintain your level, which is

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a little bit tricky, I would say. I think, I

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don't know, sometimes I am jealous of the Europeans

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because they're able to go home. Oh, for sure.

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And then we're just over there and we're like,

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you've been here for seven weeks. Oh, God. And

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it's just like getting used to being somewhere

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else. I don't know. Like it is a lot of fun,

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but you're just not used to the gyms. It's like

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things just feel different. And so then like

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trying to maintain your same endurance level

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and strength level is like just a little bit

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tricky, I think. I guess I get the concept that.

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like Americans and I guess probably anyone from

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Asia as well as staying there for an extended

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period of time but even just like traveling I

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hate living out of a suitcase for like a long

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time so that's actually kind of rough yeah I

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don't even know like if I would say it's an advantage

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I think it's just different like I think it just

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it does take time to get used to being away from

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home for so long especially I don't know I feel

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like I'm someone that really relies on like a

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schedule and like knowing what I'm doing every

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day and like things going exactly how I planned

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them to go. And so I do think, I don't know,

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just being in Europe for that long, like I really

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had to challenge my normal mindset because it's

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like things just aren't the same. And that's

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not a bad thing, but it's just like getting used

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to it. And you said last year you didn't do like

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a full season. So what was last year like compared

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to this year? Last year, I was on the development

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team. So it was sort of just like waiting to

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see if people would decline the comp so that

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I could go. So I ended up going to China and

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then Innsbruck and Coper for lead. And so I did

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have pretty big gaps in between the comps. So

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it did feel a little bit different. And I was

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bouldering a little bit last season too. which

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this season I'm just focusing on lead. So I think

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just it feels a lot different actually this season.

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Well, now that you've had, I guess, a while,

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how long has it been since the last comp? It's

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been like a month and a half. I think a month.

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Oh, really? Yeah. How is this like kind of weird

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break been? Like, is it enough time to do a full

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training cycle or are you just kind of still

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keep trying to keep your form? Um, I think it

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has been. It's been nice to be home and I feel

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like we have gotten like a pretty good block

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in. I don't know. I think it takes some time

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just for your body to like get used to the training

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again, I think. Like for, I want to say two weeks,

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it was really hard and I felt like I was struggling

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so much. And then, I don't know, I just reached

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a point where I was like, okay, I'm getting used

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to it again. Like I can. I actually feel like

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myself on the wall again, which is nice. And

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then you also need some time to taper, right?

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Yeah. I ended up hurting my neck right before

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Chamonix. So then I had to come home and try

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to figure out how to fix that. So then that took...

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I think that was part of the reason why it was

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a little more tricky for me to get used to the

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training again. How did you hurt your neck? I

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don't know. I think... A while ago in September

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of last year, I did shoulders like five days

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in a row really intensely and it ended up like

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making my shoulders and neck so, so tight. And

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now if I'm not careful, it just flares back up.

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So like if I do too many weights or if I'm not

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stretching and like recovering how I should be

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recovering, then it flares up really bad. And

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we were in Milan. And so we're like had heavy

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backpacks on and we're like on the trains for

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like hours. And so I think it just got really

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tight again. And then it gives me like the worst

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headache ever. So I had a headache for like three

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weeks that would not go away. But I don't know.

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Once I got home and I was able to get back to

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my normal like recovery schedule, it was it felt

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better. What's your like neck stretches? Because

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I also have super tight. shoulders and like neck

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things and yeah I gotta fix that I what's helped

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me the most actually is you can buy like at -home

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cupping sets and then my mom will just do it

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on my shoulders and then I get acupuncture in

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my neck which helps a lot like it hurts and it's

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kind of annoying scared yeah it's kind of annoying

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to go but it helps so much okay I'm a little

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too scared to try acupuncture. It's not bad.

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It's not bad. I was scared too, but it's really

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not too bad. I also watched, there used to be

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this like one show that was like dumb ways to

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die or like a hundred ways to die or something

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like that. And it was this guy who. was like

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doing acupuncture and then he like fell off the

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table and it like went through his body. I don't

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know if these are real stories or just like made

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up ways that you could potentially die, but I've

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always been scared of acupuncture since then.

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No, I don't think that would happen. I think

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it's made up. As long as you go to like someone

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with good reviews, I think that you'll be okay.

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Yeah. Okay. Maybe if I get desperate, I'll have

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to try that. Yeah. It actually helps a lot more

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than I expected. Maybe in the future. So for

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those who don't know you and your background

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super well, how did you get into climbing and

00:10:44.470 --> 00:10:47.289
competing? I started climbing when I was around

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two or three because my parents have been climbing

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forever. My dad's been climbing for like 30 years

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now. And so they would go outside and like he

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would bring like a pack and play and they would

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just put me in there. And then. they would climb

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and I would hang out and then once I got a little

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bit older they were like okay let's have you

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start doing some routes and then I just I don't

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know we just always went together and yeah and

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then I think when I was six I joined a team oh

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that's super early I didn't know they allowed

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they had teams at that age yeah I guess so I

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don't know and so we just climbed together all

00:11:32.220 --> 00:11:36.000
the time and and I don't know, when I was eight,

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I joined the AZR Ascenders, which was a like

00:11:40.480 --> 00:11:44.139
pretty well -known team at the time in Arizona.

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And I was going to practice four days a week.

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And then on the weekends, my parents and I would

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go outside and climb routes and hang out. And

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it kind of just, you know, carried on from there.

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Was there ever a moment in that like growing

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up period where you were like, I don't want to

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do this. I want to do my own thing. I don't think

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so. I was I was kind of thinking about that.

00:12:08.509 --> 00:12:11.429
Like, I never remember my parents forcing me

00:12:11.429 --> 00:12:14.809
to climb. I always just wanted to. Like, I never

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remember them saying like, oh, you have to go.

00:12:17.129 --> 00:12:19.590
We just went and I wanted to climb routes. And

00:12:19.590 --> 00:12:22.450
yeah, we would go out and my dad and I would

00:12:22.450 --> 00:12:26.509
both climb like 10 routes, you know, 510 to 512.

00:12:26.669 --> 00:12:29.389
And we would hang out and it was really fun.

00:12:29.570 --> 00:12:32.929
I don't know. And like, I really liked going

00:12:32.929 --> 00:12:36.639
to the practices. And yeah, I mean, we were climbing

00:12:36.639 --> 00:12:39.039
like six days a week when I was a kid. Like nothing

00:12:39.039 --> 00:12:43.679
just for fun, though. Like it wasn't even outrageously

00:12:43.679 --> 00:12:45.559
hard training. It was just because I wanted to

00:12:45.559 --> 00:12:48.019
go. My dad wanted to go. Did you do like any

00:12:48.019 --> 00:12:51.399
other sports growing up or was it just climbing?

00:12:51.559 --> 00:12:54.519
And like that's the only activity. I actually

00:12:54.519 --> 00:12:59.340
did swimming for a while and I was pretty good

00:12:59.340 --> 00:13:02.159
at it. Like I think I did it from when I was

00:13:02.159 --> 00:13:07.019
six to maybe. 11. And they kept wanting me to

00:13:07.019 --> 00:13:09.879
move up teams and compete more. And I was just

00:13:09.879 --> 00:13:12.419
like, I just want to climb. Like, I really didn't

00:13:12.419 --> 00:13:14.240
like swimming at all. But my mom was like, you

00:13:14.240 --> 00:13:16.580
need to try different things. Like, you could

00:13:16.580 --> 00:13:18.659
really go somewhere with swimming. And I was

00:13:18.659 --> 00:13:21.919
like, I just, I'm not a fan. So they were trying

00:13:21.919 --> 00:13:24.559
to push you to become like a swim, like a swimmer

00:13:24.559 --> 00:13:26.720
instead of like a climber? I don't know that.

00:13:26.919 --> 00:13:29.600
I think my mom just wanted me to have options.

00:13:29.779 --> 00:13:32.940
I don't think my dad really cared. But, yeah,

00:13:33.000 --> 00:13:35.200
once they started telling me that I had to go,

00:13:35.200 --> 00:13:38.519
like, late at night, it would be the practices

00:13:38.519 --> 00:13:41.080
were, like, 7 to 10 or something. I was like,

00:13:41.159 --> 00:13:43.279
it's cold. Like, I don't really want to do this

00:13:43.279 --> 00:13:46.179
anymore. And I just wanted to focus on climbing.

00:13:46.299 --> 00:13:49.299
So then they were like, okay. I mean, at least

00:13:49.299 --> 00:13:51.179
it was nighttime practices. I've heard a lot

00:13:51.179 --> 00:13:53.139
of swimmers do, like, early morning practices

00:13:53.139 --> 00:13:56.159
that start at, like, 6 or 5 or something crazy

00:13:56.159 --> 00:13:58.720
like that. I think that's probably once you get,

00:13:58.820 --> 00:14:01.610
like, a little bit older. Oh, okay. Yeah, once

00:14:01.610 --> 00:14:05.389
it's like serious. Yeah. And so then did your

00:14:05.389 --> 00:14:08.610
dad ever compete in climbing? He didn't, no.

00:14:08.750 --> 00:14:13.289
He mostly was just like going outside and they

00:14:13.289 --> 00:14:15.629
went to the gyms just so that they could, you

00:14:15.629 --> 00:14:17.669
know, climb around and have fun, but just to

00:14:17.669 --> 00:14:20.590
like get better outside. But you mentioned that

00:14:20.590 --> 00:14:23.769
he is your coach, right? Yeah, he is. Did like

00:14:23.769 --> 00:14:26.190
the family aspect ever bleed into the coaching

00:14:26.190 --> 00:14:29.149
and like make it weird or have you considered

00:14:29.149 --> 00:14:31.970
getting other coaches? people actually ask me

00:14:31.970 --> 00:14:35.409
this a lot like if we get along and we get along

00:14:35.409 --> 00:14:39.570
really really well like I think I just got lucky

00:14:39.570 --> 00:14:44.490
in that aspect because I don't know like he just

00:14:44.490 --> 00:14:50.070
understands how I am I think and I think I don't

00:14:50.070 --> 00:14:54.309
really struggle with motivation too much so it's

00:14:54.309 --> 00:14:58.139
never like he's forcing me to do anything I just,

00:14:58.200 --> 00:15:00.799
like, I expect myself to get up and to do it.

00:15:01.059 --> 00:15:03.379
And we know, like, exactly what we're going to

00:15:03.379 --> 00:15:06.320
do every day. And we just go and do it. And it's

00:15:06.320 --> 00:15:09.440
never, like, him forcing me to do it, which I

00:15:09.440 --> 00:15:13.940
think is what helps. Because I think there can

00:15:13.940 --> 00:15:17.000
be an issue, like, if a parent is trying to force

00:15:17.000 --> 00:15:20.759
their kids to go. But it's never, like, in my

00:15:20.759 --> 00:15:23.730
whole life, it's never felt like that. It's we

00:15:23.730 --> 00:15:26.309
know that I'm there because I want to do it just

00:15:26.309 --> 00:15:28.990
the same way when I was a kid. It was like we

00:15:28.990 --> 00:15:31.129
would go to the gym because I wanted to climb.

00:15:32.309 --> 00:15:35.990
And so I don't think it's really has ever felt

00:15:35.990 --> 00:15:39.289
like he's forcing me to do anything. And honestly,

00:15:39.389 --> 00:15:41.850
if I woke up tomorrow and told him that I wanted

00:15:41.850 --> 00:15:45.049
to be done, he would say, OK, that's fine. Because

00:15:45.049 --> 00:15:48.370
like he supports me because he knows that I want

00:15:48.370 --> 00:15:51.879
to do it. Yeah. And I think that's like. It feels

00:15:51.879 --> 00:15:54.879
pretty healthy and like it's a good situation.

00:15:55.240 --> 00:15:58.799
Oh, that sounds great. I would say the only time

00:15:58.799 --> 00:16:02.600
he ever like we ever get irritated with each

00:16:02.600 --> 00:16:06.559
other is he's like very, very big on being positive.

00:16:06.620 --> 00:16:10.759
And like you have to just like be able to embrace

00:16:10.759 --> 00:16:15.139
changes and like not get stressed out about things.

00:16:15.259 --> 00:16:19.159
And like sometimes. I do think that I struggle

00:16:19.159 --> 00:16:21.120
a little bit with like things not working out

00:16:21.120 --> 00:16:24.360
exactly how I want them to. Like if we're going

00:16:24.360 --> 00:16:27.899
to a lead session and I know the routes that

00:16:27.899 --> 00:16:30.580
are up because it's our home gym, like I'll pick

00:16:30.580 --> 00:16:33.000
out exactly what my circuits are going to be.

00:16:33.620 --> 00:16:36.240
And then if I go and someone's on that wall,

00:16:36.360 --> 00:16:40.159
like in the past I have let it irritate me. Okay.

00:16:40.440 --> 00:16:42.919
And he's like, you can't, you need to go with

00:16:42.919 --> 00:16:46.639
the flow, which lately I have been trying a lot

00:16:46.639 --> 00:16:51.049
harder. To get used to that, just from like the

00:16:51.049 --> 00:16:53.970
comp standpoint and like the way the World Cups

00:16:53.970 --> 00:16:56.090
have been, just getting used to that, like you

00:16:56.090 --> 00:16:59.230
really have to be able to go with the flow. And

00:16:59.230 --> 00:17:04.990
so that's like his big thing. And sometimes when

00:17:04.990 --> 00:17:08.930
I get tired, I do cry and he really doesn't like

00:17:08.930 --> 00:17:12.750
crying. Oh, really? Like he just feels like,

00:17:12.769 --> 00:17:15.390
you know, once you're crying, like you've lost

00:17:15.390 --> 00:17:17.809
your edge. You've lost your positivity. Like

00:17:17.809 --> 00:17:20.890
it's hard. Not if you're injured, obviously.

00:17:21.569 --> 00:17:26.650
But just like you have to stay positive and like

00:17:26.650 --> 00:17:28.650
you're choosing to be here and you want to get

00:17:28.650 --> 00:17:32.349
better. So it's like just because you're falling

00:17:32.349 --> 00:17:35.190
on certain things, like there's no reason to

00:17:35.190 --> 00:17:37.730
get upset. Like if you're falling, that means

00:17:37.730 --> 00:17:40.910
that you're trying hard enough and that you know

00:17:40.910 --> 00:17:43.589
that you're like going where you need to be going.

00:17:43.930 --> 00:17:45.890
Instead of like, oh, I'm upset because I fell.

00:17:46.289 --> 00:17:48.849
It's like that's the reality of the sport. Yeah,

00:17:48.890 --> 00:17:51.990
I guess that makes sense. But yeah, I don't know.

00:17:52.009 --> 00:17:54.450
It definitely is tough sometimes because I think

00:17:54.450 --> 00:17:57.230
just like the amount that we're in the gym, like

00:17:57.230 --> 00:18:01.089
you're going to get tired and you're like, I

00:18:01.089 --> 00:18:04.650
don't know. Sometimes we'll do like circuits

00:18:04.650 --> 00:18:08.029
on lead and like I'm just so tired and like I'll

00:18:08.029 --> 00:18:10.589
be crying on the wall like while I'm climbing.

00:18:10.970 --> 00:18:15.359
Not often. But it's just like you have to like

00:18:15.359 --> 00:18:18.480
I just think you really have to work on being

00:18:18.480 --> 00:18:21.000
positive. And like that's been a big thing this

00:18:21.000 --> 00:18:25.339
year about just me trying to fix my. I don't

00:18:25.339 --> 00:18:28.039
want to say attitude, but kind of. So like when

00:18:28.039 --> 00:18:30.740
you're crying while climbing on the wall, like

00:18:30.740 --> 00:18:33.859
what is the thought process there? It's just

00:18:33.859 --> 00:18:37.519
like tired. Like you just feel so tired. And

00:18:37.519 --> 00:18:41.200
I do think it is. We only have like one lead

00:18:41.200 --> 00:18:46.130
gym. And so the routes just feel, I think things

00:18:46.130 --> 00:18:49.490
just get repetitive and it's just, it is tiring.

00:18:50.069 --> 00:18:52.789
I don't know. I think just anytime you're doing

00:18:52.789 --> 00:18:55.190
anything for that amount of time, like regardless

00:18:55.190 --> 00:18:58.109
of how much you enjoy it, it's like things do

00:18:58.109 --> 00:19:01.309
get monotonous and like it does get hard. And

00:19:01.309 --> 00:19:03.930
I don't think that's a bad thing. I think that's

00:19:03.930 --> 00:19:07.589
just part of like the nature of sports. So has

00:19:07.589 --> 00:19:09.609
there ever, I mean, it sounds like a mostly.

00:19:10.170 --> 00:19:13.490
healthy relationship it sounds good um is has

00:19:13.490 --> 00:19:16.829
there really like never been a point where you

00:19:16.829 --> 00:19:19.210
were like oh this is too much like I want to

00:19:19.210 --> 00:19:23.230
quit and I don't want to do this or like do world

00:19:23.230 --> 00:19:26.809
cups or like maybe be a pro athlete or any of

00:19:26.809 --> 00:19:31.089
that I think like the only time that I ever had

00:19:31.089 --> 00:19:35.130
that was when I was like pretty sick you know

00:19:35.130 --> 00:19:38.509
for like a long period of time because it it

00:19:39.000 --> 00:19:42.940
I did just feel so off. And it's like, since

00:19:42.940 --> 00:19:46.000
I fixed that, no, I mean, I really enjoy it.

00:19:46.039 --> 00:19:49.099
And I think it's like I enjoy the process of

00:19:49.099 --> 00:19:51.519
like going to the gyms and working out and trying

00:19:51.519 --> 00:19:53.880
to get better. Well, we'll definitely get into,

00:19:53.960 --> 00:19:56.539
I guess, like the whole sickness part of your

00:19:56.539 --> 00:20:00.220
life. Yeah. Before we get into that, I just want

00:20:00.220 --> 00:20:03.240
to talk a little bit more about like your experience

00:20:03.240 --> 00:20:06.559
with like world climbing and like climbing in

00:20:06.559 --> 00:20:10.730
general. So you said like this year you're doing

00:20:10.730 --> 00:20:14.269
like lead only. You used to do a little bit more

00:20:14.269 --> 00:20:17.589
bouldering as well. I guess, how did you decide

00:20:17.589 --> 00:20:21.089
on lead climbing? And is it like in preparation

00:20:21.089 --> 00:20:23.190
for the Olympics where people are like trying

00:20:23.190 --> 00:20:27.549
to specialize? I think like I've always just

00:20:27.549 --> 00:20:30.210
competed a little bit better on lead. I mean,

00:20:30.230 --> 00:20:33.109
since the first ETH Worlds I made, I think it

00:20:33.109 --> 00:20:38.039
was in 2021, it was for lead. And then I... competed

00:20:38.039 --> 00:20:42.380
three more youth worlds and most of that like

00:20:42.380 --> 00:20:46.900
did lead at all of them and so I think lead just

00:20:46.900 --> 00:20:49.839
comes a little bit more naturally to me I think

00:20:49.839 --> 00:20:54.420
and bouldering I do think right now our team

00:20:54.420 --> 00:20:58.099
is like quite hard to break into but it's also

00:20:58.099 --> 00:21:01.619
just all the coordination stuff I think my level

00:21:01.619 --> 00:21:05.680
is just not there right now because I don't know.

00:21:05.700 --> 00:21:08.160
I live in Arizona and there's not a ton of gyms

00:21:08.160 --> 00:21:11.960
that are setting like that style. And so then

00:21:11.960 --> 00:21:14.319
it's like you go to the bouldering comps and

00:21:14.319 --> 00:21:16.519
you're trying to do the coordination and it's

00:21:16.519 --> 00:21:19.980
just like, I don't like I don't know. It just

00:21:19.980 --> 00:21:23.339
like it's really tough to be able to do those

00:21:23.339 --> 00:21:27.140
jumps and stuff if you're not. Like if you haven't

00:21:27.140 --> 00:21:31.450
practiced them. So I think that. I'm not saying

00:21:31.450 --> 00:21:34.109
like I wouldn't go back to bouldering. I have

00:21:34.109 --> 00:21:36.849
plans to compete bouldering in the future, just

00:21:36.849 --> 00:21:39.930
that I do think I need some more work on coordination

00:21:39.930 --> 00:21:42.789
because they are setting so much of it. So you

00:21:42.789 --> 00:21:45.049
feel like with lead, it's more like even if you

00:21:45.049 --> 00:21:48.490
don't exactly have the same style of setting

00:21:48.490 --> 00:21:52.450
as like world climbing or yeah, like international

00:21:52.450 --> 00:21:56.430
bouldering styles, it's more just like maybe

00:21:56.430 --> 00:22:01.019
your physical fitness or. like endurance ability

00:22:01.019 --> 00:22:05.559
that helps yeah I I think that's fair I mean

00:22:05.559 --> 00:22:09.680
even yeah where I live we don't really have like

00:22:09.680 --> 00:22:13.920
lead routes that are the level that they are

00:22:13.920 --> 00:22:18.799
at world cups so it's like we're just working

00:22:18.799 --> 00:22:22.819
on building as much fitness as possible and go

00:22:22.819 --> 00:22:25.700
to the comps and like see you know how it works

00:22:25.700 --> 00:22:29.710
out because Yeah, I don't really practice on

00:22:29.710 --> 00:22:34.710
hard lead routes like that ever, which does make

00:22:34.710 --> 00:22:38.089
it interesting. I don't know. Our coach, like

00:22:38.089 --> 00:22:41.809
the USAC one was like it's like on the job training

00:22:41.809 --> 00:22:45.650
because you never use you never like practice

00:22:45.650 --> 00:22:48.910
them. But I don't think I don't feel that it

00:22:48.910 --> 00:22:51.569
like makes that much of a difference because

00:22:51.569 --> 00:22:54.549
I do feel like routes are kind of routes like

00:22:54.549 --> 00:22:57.349
you sort of know what you're going to get. And

00:22:57.349 --> 00:22:59.970
it is I do feel like fitness plays a big role

00:22:59.970 --> 00:23:04.049
in it. And so I do think I have plans to go to

00:23:04.049 --> 00:23:06.710
Salt Lake and like climb on the new lead wall.

00:23:07.809 --> 00:23:11.970
But I do think that if you build like a really

00:23:11.970 --> 00:23:15.329
solid fitness base, you're going to get yourself

00:23:15.329 --> 00:23:18.750
to like a pretty good level. Are there ever like

00:23:18.750 --> 00:23:24.460
moves on the World Series routes that. Or like

00:23:24.460 --> 00:23:27.160
stopper moves to you? Or is it really just endurance?

00:23:27.799 --> 00:23:31.240
I do think there are stopper moves for sure.

00:23:31.400 --> 00:23:36.259
Even this year in Innsbruck, in the quali, there

00:23:36.259 --> 00:23:40.039
was a route where like, I want to say 20 of us

00:23:40.039 --> 00:23:43.859
fell on the same move. And it was like, I mean,

00:23:43.880 --> 00:23:46.920
a lot of heavy hitters fell on that move. I think

00:23:46.920 --> 00:23:51.779
maybe six people did the move. So it is. Like

00:23:51.779 --> 00:23:55.440
there are a lot of aspects of power, I think.

00:23:56.059 --> 00:24:00.500
But often there's not really hard jumps or like

00:24:00.500 --> 00:24:02.980
really hard bouldering moves that knock a lot

00:24:02.980 --> 00:24:07.220
of people off. I wouldn't, I don't think. Like

00:24:07.220 --> 00:24:10.240
at least the comps I've done this season. Yeah.

00:24:10.339 --> 00:24:13.960
So like, do you think if you had like harder

00:24:13.960 --> 00:24:16.019
routes in Arizona that would help with that?

00:24:16.079 --> 00:24:18.819
Or is it just like totally different? I mean,

00:24:18.819 --> 00:24:21.980
I think it couldn't hurt. I can't say that I

00:24:21.980 --> 00:24:25.140
don't ask our setters to like put up some harder

00:24:25.140 --> 00:24:28.039
stuff. But like the reality is that they're going

00:24:28.039 --> 00:24:31.420
to set for the clientele and they just and I

00:24:31.420 --> 00:24:33.440
don't blame them. I mean, it's hard enough to

00:24:33.440 --> 00:24:36.720
set on lead. And so like trying to set really

00:24:36.720 --> 00:24:39.819
hard stuff that one or two people is going to

00:24:39.819 --> 00:24:42.279
climb. It's like just doesn't really make sense.

00:24:42.619 --> 00:24:45.259
Have you considered moving for harder routes

00:24:45.259 --> 00:24:50.509
or? I definitely have thought about it. I think,

00:24:50.549 --> 00:24:53.789
I mean, obviously a lot of people live in Salt

00:24:53.789 --> 00:24:58.049
Lake and I do really like the gyms and I like,

00:24:58.049 --> 00:25:01.029
you know, the amount of routes and boulders that

00:25:01.029 --> 00:25:04.390
there are. I just think that please pardon this

00:25:04.390 --> 00:25:06.890
brief intermission, but I wanted to talk about

00:25:06.890 --> 00:25:09.329
comp .rocks, which is a website you can use to

00:25:09.329 --> 00:25:12.269
find climbing competitions near you. For pro

00:25:12.269 --> 00:25:14.869
climbers, you can filter by cash purse. And for

00:25:14.869 --> 00:25:16.869
the rest of us just looking to gain valuable

00:25:16.869 --> 00:25:19.650
experience or have fun, there are a bunch more

00:25:19.650 --> 00:25:22.650
filters as well, like discipline, age, format,

00:25:22.750 --> 00:25:26.230
and more. I live in SoCal where there are a bunch

00:25:26.230 --> 00:25:28.809
of gyms, and I'm not trying to follow every climbing

00:25:28.809 --> 00:25:31.049
gym's page to figure out if they're going to

00:25:31.049 --> 00:25:33.380
have a competition. petition or not. So this

00:25:33.380 --> 00:25:36.240
has made things so much easier. There are already

00:25:36.240 --> 00:25:39.279
over 100 comps published right now with even

00:25:39.279 --> 00:25:42.500
more planned for next year and it's free to use.

00:25:42.660 --> 00:25:45.619
So check out comp .rocks if you're based in the

00:25:45.619 --> 00:25:49.140
US. Some people, like some people's personalities

00:25:49.140 --> 00:25:52.440
just work really well in that environment. And

00:25:52.440 --> 00:25:56.480
I don't know if I'm that type of person. Okay.

00:25:56.700 --> 00:26:00.789
Like I. I think that there's some people that

00:26:00.789 --> 00:26:03.349
being around a lot of strong people, like it

00:26:03.349 --> 00:26:05.750
makes them more motivated and it makes them,

00:26:05.750 --> 00:26:07.869
you know, want to push themselves a lot harder.

00:26:08.190 --> 00:26:11.329
For me, I just feel like every training is stressful.

00:26:11.869 --> 00:26:15.789
I feel like everything feels like a competition

00:26:15.789 --> 00:26:21.589
and it's really hard for me to not get in my

00:26:21.589 --> 00:26:25.029
head. It's kind of, I feel similar training in

00:26:25.029 --> 00:26:28.769
Innsbruck, like before the World Cup. It's like

00:26:28.769 --> 00:26:30.549
there's so many people there and you have to

00:26:30.549 --> 00:26:33.430
compete against them in a week. And you're you

00:26:33.430 --> 00:26:35.970
go on a route. And regardless of if you're doing

00:26:35.970 --> 00:26:38.630
better or worse, like it's not really relevant

00:26:38.630 --> 00:26:41.190
to what's going to happen in the comp. But if

00:26:41.190 --> 00:26:43.529
you let it get in your head, then it can become

00:26:43.529 --> 00:26:47.170
relevant. I just think that it's kind of hard.

00:26:47.269 --> 00:26:50.269
And that's how I feel right now about Salt Lake

00:26:50.269 --> 00:26:55.349
is like where I live. I don't see anybody training

00:26:55.349 --> 00:26:58.960
like it's basically just me and my dad. And so

00:26:58.960 --> 00:27:02.539
nobody knows what I'm doing. I don't see anyone.

00:27:03.359 --> 00:27:06.599
Most of the boards are open. I don't have to

00:27:06.599 --> 00:27:10.819
fight for space. And so it's just kind of nice

00:27:10.819 --> 00:27:16.099
just being able to be on my own and do exactly

00:27:16.099 --> 00:27:19.599
the training that I want to do and not have to

00:27:19.599 --> 00:27:23.920
be around so many people that you'll have to

00:27:23.920 --> 00:27:26.400
compete against in the future. So it doesn't

00:27:26.400 --> 00:27:29.700
like motivate you to see people climbing harder

00:27:29.700 --> 00:27:32.859
than you? It's more like demotivating? I don't

00:27:32.859 --> 00:27:35.700
know. Honestly, I don't feel like I really have

00:27:35.700 --> 00:27:39.200
motivation issues at all. Like I don't think

00:27:39.200 --> 00:27:43.859
that I feel less or more motivated when I'm around

00:27:43.859 --> 00:27:46.839
other people. I think that I just feel stressed.

00:27:47.420 --> 00:27:50.559
And so I think that like because I know that

00:27:50.559 --> 00:27:55.859
about myself, it's like I have to. you know try

00:27:55.859 --> 00:27:58.539
to put myself in the best position to succeed

00:27:58.539 --> 00:28:01.180
and I think for right now it makes more sense

00:28:01.180 --> 00:28:04.039
for me to stay here so I guess it kind of seems

00:28:04.039 --> 00:28:07.140
like you are just motivated to do the best that

00:28:07.140 --> 00:28:11.440
you can do no matter what yeah and I guess for

00:28:11.440 --> 00:28:14.619
a lot of people I would say at least for me if

00:28:14.619 --> 00:28:18.799
I'm already doing the best of the people around

00:28:18.799 --> 00:28:22.609
me then I'm like Oh, well, OK, cool. Whereas

00:28:22.609 --> 00:28:25.690
if I saw someone doing better than me, then I

00:28:25.690 --> 00:28:28.109
would be like, OK, I have to aim for that because

00:28:28.109 --> 00:28:31.829
I could do that. So I should work harder to be

00:28:31.829 --> 00:28:34.309
able to do that. Yeah. I mean, I think that's

00:28:34.309 --> 00:28:37.750
fair. Like that makes sense. But yeah, I don't

00:28:37.750 --> 00:28:40.829
I don't really feel that way. Like I feel like

00:28:40.829 --> 00:28:44.390
I'm just in pursuit of being my best self. And

00:28:44.390 --> 00:28:47.369
so that I don't feel the need to like train around

00:28:47.369 --> 00:28:50.680
other people. because it doesn't really affect

00:28:50.680 --> 00:28:53.720
me. That's kind of a unique take, I feel like.

00:28:54.039 --> 00:28:58.539
I also think that it helps that, like, I do have

00:28:58.539 --> 00:29:03.700
my dad with me in all my sessions because I can

00:29:03.700 --> 00:29:06.059
imagine that if you were on your own and did

00:29:06.059 --> 00:29:09.299
not have a coach, that it might be tough to,

00:29:09.339 --> 00:29:11.519
like, make sure you're doing everything that

00:29:11.519 --> 00:29:14.480
you should be doing. Yeah. Oh, true. For sure.

00:29:14.539 --> 00:29:17.119
Like, I think even when he's just there, like,

00:29:17.220 --> 00:29:21.039
hanging out. and watching me boulder on the boards,

00:29:21.160 --> 00:29:25.720
like, it just makes it easier. And it is fun,

00:29:25.819 --> 00:29:28.180
and, like, we talk to each other, and it's, like,

00:29:28.259 --> 00:29:30.799
it doesn't really feel like work, even though

00:29:30.799 --> 00:29:33.859
it is. So I think maybe if I was on my own, it

00:29:33.859 --> 00:29:36.880
would feel different, but because I'm not, it's,

00:29:36.880 --> 00:29:39.819
yeah, it feels like a really good situation for

00:29:39.819 --> 00:29:43.460
me right now. Does your dad climb, like, a similar

00:29:43.460 --> 00:29:45.640
grade to you, or does he have, like, a similar

00:29:45.640 --> 00:29:50.279
ability level to you? I mean, not really, but

00:29:50.279 --> 00:29:55.000
he has, like, I don't know. I want to say, like,

00:29:55.000 --> 00:29:57.839
ten years ago he could climb tens and nines and

00:29:57.839 --> 00:30:01.259
stuff. But even though he can't, like, we'll

00:30:01.259 --> 00:30:03.759
do bouldering sessions together where we're just

00:30:03.759 --> 00:30:06.200
projecting and, like, I'll try my climb and he'll

00:30:06.200 --> 00:30:08.740
try his climb and it's, like, it doesn't. And

00:30:08.740 --> 00:30:12.019
we give each other, like, advice and it's, I

00:30:12.019 --> 00:30:17.660
don't know. But, yeah. So. I actually don't interview

00:30:17.660 --> 00:30:19.799
that many lead climbers, and I'm more of a boulder,

00:30:19.960 --> 00:30:23.339
so I have to get some basic noob questions out

00:30:23.339 --> 00:30:27.099
of the way first. I had actually only recently

00:30:27.099 --> 00:30:30.859
heard that maybe sometimes you guys get a video

00:30:30.859 --> 00:30:33.279
of the route being climbed before the competition.

00:30:34.319 --> 00:30:37.759
Is that true? Like, it only happens sometimes,

00:30:37.940 --> 00:30:41.259
but not every time? Oh, before the qualifier,

00:30:41.400 --> 00:30:46.339
we get videos every time. Okay. So we have the

00:30:46.339 --> 00:30:48.960
two routes and you get a video of each route

00:30:48.960 --> 00:30:52.660
being climbed. And the point of that is so that

00:30:52.660 --> 00:30:56.900
whoever goes first in the start list has like

00:30:56.900 --> 00:31:00.420
the same chance to do well because they've also

00:31:00.420 --> 00:31:03.900
seen someone climb it. Like if they had to go

00:31:03.900 --> 00:31:06.299
first on the route and had never seen anyone

00:31:06.299 --> 00:31:10.299
climb it, but then everyone can watch them, like

00:31:10.299 --> 00:31:12.720
it's not as fair for them. I didn't even know

00:31:12.720 --> 00:31:16.299
everyone could watch. Yeah. In the quali, you

00:31:16.299 --> 00:31:18.759
can watch everyone. Wow. Okay. I had no idea.

00:31:19.559 --> 00:31:23.059
Wait, that's so crazy. It's just, I mean, they

00:31:23.059 --> 00:31:26.500
don't ever show qualis, so I wouldn't know. That's

00:31:26.500 --> 00:31:29.559
wild. And I've never been to a lead. Yeah. Never

00:31:29.559 --> 00:31:32.200
been to a lead World Series. Yeah. Okay. Good

00:31:32.200 --> 00:31:35.119
to know. So then you never have that for semis

00:31:35.119 --> 00:31:38.700
or finals. Correct. So for semis and finals,

00:31:38.779 --> 00:31:42.339
we have like the preview. So we get to go out

00:31:42.339 --> 00:31:45.279
for six minutes and look at it. And then we have

00:31:45.279 --> 00:31:49.259
like a route map in the back. So it's just basically

00:31:49.259 --> 00:31:53.200
a picture of it. And then it shows like on there,

00:31:53.279 --> 00:31:55.779
they draw on what the last possible clipping

00:31:55.779 --> 00:31:58.859
position for each draw is. If you went past there,

00:31:58.940 --> 00:32:01.019
then you wouldn't be able to clip the draw and

00:32:01.019 --> 00:32:03.500
then your points would stop. When you're like

00:32:03.500 --> 00:32:07.000
watching people in qualities, how do you know,

00:32:07.119 --> 00:32:10.559
how do you decide like when to go your own way

00:32:10.559 --> 00:32:16.319
with your beta? I think. To me, I just do what

00:32:16.319 --> 00:32:19.740
feels right in the moment. I don't really focus

00:32:19.740 --> 00:32:24.160
on watching people that intently. Even the video,

00:32:24.380 --> 00:32:26.980
I'll watch it maybe twice. There are some people

00:32:26.980 --> 00:32:29.279
that while they're in the chair, before they

00:32:29.279 --> 00:32:33.680
go out, they're watching the video. And I don't

00:32:33.680 --> 00:32:36.740
do that. I think the thing that the video helps

00:32:36.740 --> 00:32:39.579
the most with for me is figuring out where to

00:32:39.579 --> 00:32:43.200
clip the draws from. because the setters know

00:32:43.200 --> 00:32:46.920
like the setters know what the best hold is and

00:32:46.920 --> 00:32:50.220
so a lot of times if you go past where they have

00:32:50.220 --> 00:32:53.559
clipped their draw from it's a lot harder so

00:32:53.559 --> 00:32:57.400
I think I watched the video for that and then

00:32:57.400 --> 00:33:01.819
I'll watch maybe a couple climbers and then I'm

00:33:01.819 --> 00:33:05.500
like okay and then I go and just do like what

00:33:05.500 --> 00:33:10.420
feels natural I don't try to force any different

00:33:10.420 --> 00:33:15.259
beta I don't know. How far, like, do you try

00:33:15.259 --> 00:33:18.039
to remember your own, like, when you're reading

00:33:18.039 --> 00:33:20.059
it, you try to remember your own beta for the

00:33:20.059 --> 00:33:23.440
whole route? I don't, but I know that some people

00:33:23.440 --> 00:33:27.859
do. Yeah, I more go with the flow on the routes.

00:33:28.039 --> 00:33:30.259
Really? Okay. Because I find a lot of times,

00:33:30.279 --> 00:33:32.500
like, things don't feel how you think they're

00:33:32.500 --> 00:33:35.900
going to feel. And for me, I don't get a lot

00:33:35.900 --> 00:33:38.400
of practice on the holds that they set with.

00:33:39.740 --> 00:33:42.160
A lot of times this season, it's been my first

00:33:42.160 --> 00:33:46.579
time ever grabbing certain holds. Yeah. So I

00:33:46.579 --> 00:33:48.819
have no idea what anything's going to feel like.

00:33:48.900 --> 00:33:51.900
I think maybe if I did know what the holds would

00:33:51.900 --> 00:33:54.420
feel like, it might be different. But because

00:33:54.420 --> 00:33:57.940
I don't, I'm like, let me just go and see. Like,

00:33:57.940 --> 00:34:01.859
see what it feels like. Yeah. That's kind of

00:34:01.859 --> 00:34:06.779
scary. Yeah, it is a little bit. But especially

00:34:06.779 --> 00:34:10.170
with the quali, like... Because of the way the

00:34:10.170 --> 00:34:13.989
start list is structured, you always know that

00:34:13.989 --> 00:34:16.690
there's going to be someone good to watch. And

00:34:16.690 --> 00:34:20.030
so you can sort of see when people are struggling

00:34:20.030 --> 00:34:22.889
so you know what moves are maybe a little more

00:34:22.889 --> 00:34:26.230
tricky than others. So you can kind of prepare

00:34:26.230 --> 00:34:29.610
yourself in that way. Like, oh, maybe by this

00:34:29.610 --> 00:34:32.489
point I need to have taken that rest so that

00:34:32.489 --> 00:34:35.650
I can be ready to do whatever move in there looks

00:34:35.650 --> 00:34:39.190
really tough. What about when you see maybe a

00:34:39.190 --> 00:34:41.869
low percentage move or a dino on a lead route?

00:34:41.969 --> 00:34:45.150
Does that freak you out at all, or do you manage

00:34:45.150 --> 00:34:48.090
to stay calm in those situations? I think I try

00:34:48.090 --> 00:34:52.670
to manage to stay calm, but it's definitely hard.

00:34:52.869 --> 00:34:57.590
I don't know. At our nationals this year in semis,

00:34:57.590 --> 00:35:01.289
we had a run and jump start, and it ended up

00:35:01.289 --> 00:35:05.739
being like V3. And I was so stressed. Yeah. I

00:35:05.739 --> 00:35:07.380
was like, if I can just get on the wall, like

00:35:07.380 --> 00:35:10.519
I think I'll be fine and be able to make it through.

00:35:10.860 --> 00:35:13.480
But it is like they do it to get in your head.

00:35:13.519 --> 00:35:15.679
Like they don't want people to fall off of the

00:35:15.679 --> 00:35:18.579
start. But it is like you have to be able to

00:35:18.579 --> 00:35:20.579
handle it and you have to be able to manage the

00:35:20.579 --> 00:35:24.639
stress. Yeah. I mean, it would really suck to

00:35:24.639 --> 00:35:28.610
fall on the start. It would. But. Yeah, they

00:35:28.610 --> 00:35:31.010
like I just can't imagine the setters would want

00:35:31.010 --> 00:35:33.670
that to happen. That's what I tell myself. I'm

00:35:33.670 --> 00:35:37.050
like, surely it will be fine because I don't

00:35:37.050 --> 00:35:38.889
think they want people to fall on the run up.

00:35:39.210 --> 00:35:42.829
I've seen some scary starts. Yeah, there definitely

00:35:42.829 --> 00:35:45.809
are some scary starts. And I have seen people

00:35:45.809 --> 00:35:48.750
fall off the start. So yeah, I mean, it does

00:35:48.750 --> 00:35:53.070
happen. But I don't know. I just tell myself

00:35:53.070 --> 00:35:56.800
that it's going to be fine. And. I don't know.

00:35:56.860 --> 00:36:00.059
That's all you can do, I guess. Okay. I think

00:36:00.059 --> 00:36:02.400
those are most of my new questions out of the

00:36:02.400 --> 00:36:06.940
way. Okay. So in terms of your like world climbing

00:36:06.940 --> 00:36:10.400
experience this year, this was your first year

00:36:10.400 --> 00:36:13.639
in finals. How was climbing in your first finals?

00:36:14.119 --> 00:36:17.340
It was amazing. I don't know. This was also my

00:36:17.340 --> 00:36:20.579
first year in semis, which. Oh, really? Yeah.

00:36:20.719 --> 00:36:25.659
In China. Yeah. It was so cool. I think. Just,

00:36:25.659 --> 00:36:27.980
like, getting used to climbing in front of that

00:36:27.980 --> 00:36:30.480
many people, like, in that environment, it definitely,

00:36:30.579 --> 00:36:33.760
like, is a little bit intimidating. That's what

00:36:33.760 --> 00:36:37.480
I mostly felt, I think. Because I was, like,

00:36:37.480 --> 00:36:41.360
so excited. And, I mean, it's, like, feels like

00:36:41.360 --> 00:36:43.940
a dream I've had for a long time to climb in

00:36:43.940 --> 00:36:46.059
a World Cup final. But it's, like, you're doing

00:36:46.059 --> 00:36:47.599
it and you're, like, oh, my gosh. Like, there's

00:36:47.599 --> 00:36:50.260
so many people here. Like, it does just feel

00:36:50.260 --> 00:36:54.409
a little bit more intense then. the semi was

00:36:54.409 --> 00:36:57.070
there anything that you like weren't expecting

00:36:57.070 --> 00:37:01.670
actually because i was in fourth that meant that

00:37:01.670 --> 00:37:05.289
i climbed fifth and there was like a tv break

00:37:05.289 --> 00:37:09.210
oh and they were they were playing like right

00:37:09.210 --> 00:37:11.010
before i went out they were playing the chicken

00:37:11.010 --> 00:37:14.570
dance and everyone in the stands was doing the

00:37:14.570 --> 00:37:17.280
chicken dance and i I was, like, tied in, and

00:37:17.280 --> 00:37:19.460
they were like, okay, like, 15 seconds, and I'm

00:37:19.460 --> 00:37:22.320
like, oh, my gosh. Like, everyone's doing the

00:37:22.320 --> 00:37:25.219
chicken dance. Like, what is going on? Uh -huh.

00:37:25.579 --> 00:37:28.860
And it, yeah. Like, I definitely wasn't expecting

00:37:28.860 --> 00:37:32.920
that. Yeah. Was it, like, distracting? I don't

00:37:32.920 --> 00:37:36.360
know if distracting, but I was just like, like,

00:37:36.400 --> 00:37:39.739
why? Yeah. I don't really know, but it was kind

00:37:39.739 --> 00:37:42.539
of funny. And so people settled down when it

00:37:42.539 --> 00:37:46.059
came out. Yeah, I guess so, but. You just never

00:37:46.059 --> 00:37:48.480
know. I didn't even know that there would be

00:37:48.480 --> 00:37:53.659
a break. I think that's the thing about semis

00:37:53.659 --> 00:37:55.840
and finals that maybe people don't think about.

00:37:56.000 --> 00:38:00.340
It's hard to time it with your warm -up because

00:38:00.340 --> 00:38:02.159
you don't know how hard the route's going to

00:38:02.159 --> 00:38:03.780
be. You don't know how long it's going to take.

00:38:03.960 --> 00:38:08.599
Oh, true. So it's kind of just like a guessing

00:38:08.599 --> 00:38:11.260
game of like, okay, I'll start warming up now,

00:38:11.420 --> 00:38:13.920
and then you try to feel it out. And then you

00:38:13.920 --> 00:38:15.719
don't know how long the person in front of you

00:38:15.719 --> 00:38:18.539
is actually going to take on the wall. So then

00:38:18.539 --> 00:38:20.539
you're sitting there and you're like, oh, like,

00:38:20.639 --> 00:38:24.159
maybe I should put my shoes on. Maybe I should

00:38:24.159 --> 00:38:28.659
get ready. I don't know. And I like I think that

00:38:28.659 --> 00:38:32.239
it's just a little bit of a learning curve. Well,

00:38:32.320 --> 00:38:34.179
like how long does your warm up usually take

00:38:34.179 --> 00:38:37.539
your ideal warm up? I would say that normally

00:38:37.539 --> 00:38:40.900
I give myself like an hour and a half, but I

00:38:40.900 --> 00:38:45.880
rest quite a bit. I think for lead, for sure,

00:38:45.900 --> 00:38:48.159
you see a lot of people, like, resting a lot

00:38:48.159 --> 00:38:51.099
more during their warm -ups. And I want to say

00:38:51.099 --> 00:38:56.260
I try to be off the wall and, like, rest for

00:38:56.260 --> 00:38:59.000
at least 15 to 20 minutes before I climb my route.

00:38:59.139 --> 00:39:01.420
Oh, wow. Really? Which I think for bouldering,

00:39:01.460 --> 00:39:05.260
that's not what people normally do. Yeah. Yeah,

00:39:05.380 --> 00:39:08.460
don't quote me on that. But I feel like it definitely,

00:39:08.619 --> 00:39:11.199
like, for lead, you see a lot more people kind

00:39:11.199 --> 00:39:14.980
of hanging out. resting a lot more I guess it

00:39:14.980 --> 00:39:17.599
makes sense then like the stuff your dad was

00:39:17.599 --> 00:39:20.280
saying about having to go with the flow because

00:39:20.280 --> 00:39:23.519
you can't predict what it'll be like yeah you

00:39:23.519 --> 00:39:27.179
really have no idea and like even in the quali

00:39:27.179 --> 00:39:29.800
a lot of times we're behind the wall so you have

00:39:29.800 --> 00:39:33.340
no idea how long the person is taking and then

00:39:33.340 --> 00:39:36.739
I don't know in Prague I was like right after

00:39:36.739 --> 00:39:39.820
the brush break Which basically means that you

00:39:39.820 --> 00:39:41.880
sit in the chair behind the wall for 15 minutes,

00:39:42.039 --> 00:39:45.980
like, at least. Because they call you while someone's

00:39:45.980 --> 00:39:48.239
still on the wall. And then you sit there while

00:39:48.239 --> 00:39:51.820
they brush the entire route, like, to wherever

00:39:51.820 --> 00:39:54.059
the highest, like, to wherever the high point

00:39:54.059 --> 00:39:56.420
is. You're just like, okay, like, let's get this

00:39:56.420 --> 00:39:58.900
show on the road. And you just kind of have to

00:39:58.900 --> 00:40:02.039
wait and, I don't know. So it is a lot of just,

00:40:02.099 --> 00:40:04.800
like, being calm and just being like, okay, I'll

00:40:04.800 --> 00:40:08.050
go when you tell me to go. And so I think just

00:40:08.050 --> 00:40:10.570
for me getting used to that and like not letting

00:40:10.570 --> 00:40:13.010
it stress me out about like, wow, I've sat here

00:40:13.010 --> 00:40:15.309
for five minutes. They must be getting really

00:40:15.309 --> 00:40:18.809
high on the wall. Oh, yeah. Like you just can't

00:40:18.809 --> 00:40:20.929
think about it at all because the reality is

00:40:20.929 --> 00:40:24.010
you have no idea. Yeah. Do you like try to figure

00:40:24.010 --> 00:40:27.510
out how far people have gotten or like listen

00:40:27.510 --> 00:40:31.570
to like cheers to hear where you've gotten on

00:40:31.570 --> 00:40:35.190
the wall versus like other people? No, I try

00:40:35.190 --> 00:40:37.940
to. Block it all out. I mean, in the back, like,

00:40:38.000 --> 00:40:40.940
I even have headphones that are, like, blaring,

00:40:40.940 --> 00:40:44.880
so I can't hear anything. And then even when

00:40:44.880 --> 00:40:47.960
I go out to climb my route, like, I never usually

00:40:47.960 --> 00:40:50.760
look at the route because I don't want to see

00:40:50.760 --> 00:40:52.699
the draws swinging. Like, I don't want to know.

00:40:53.480 --> 00:40:57.300
Yeah. Someone was saying that they watched back

00:40:57.300 --> 00:41:00.920
the Innsbruck stream, and maybe it was the Innsbruck

00:41:00.920 --> 00:41:03.099
stream. I'm not sure. But I didn't look at the

00:41:03.099 --> 00:41:05.929
route. one of the commentators was like, oh,

00:41:06.050 --> 00:41:09.130
usually you want to see like where the draws

00:41:09.130 --> 00:41:11.210
are swinging so that you know where the person

00:41:11.210 --> 00:41:15.690
fell. I do not want to know. Okay. Like I, because

00:41:15.690 --> 00:41:19.289
the reality is you have no idea like what place

00:41:19.289 --> 00:41:21.929
they're in. You have no idea what move they actually

00:41:21.929 --> 00:41:25.389
fell on. So I just don't find it helpful. I find

00:41:25.389 --> 00:41:27.610
that it kind of stresses me out more. And then

00:41:27.610 --> 00:41:29.570
I guess you don't care to reread because you

00:41:29.570 --> 00:41:31.630
don't know what the holds feel like anyway. Yeah.

00:41:32.070 --> 00:41:36.360
Okay. Interesting. Especially looking at like

00:41:36.360 --> 00:41:38.820
how you were doing last year compared to this

00:41:38.820 --> 00:41:42.699
year, there's still like huge improvements. It

00:41:42.699 --> 00:41:44.519
almost kind of seems like it came out of nowhere,

00:41:44.579 --> 00:41:47.519
like you were getting, I guess, like placements

00:41:47.519 --> 00:41:50.699
in the 30s and 40s and then like making finals

00:41:50.699 --> 00:41:52.980
this year. That's kind of like. a pretty big

00:41:52.980 --> 00:41:56.079
deal I feel like so what do you think changed

00:41:56.079 --> 00:41:59.500
between maybe like your training last year versus

00:41:59.500 --> 00:42:02.699
this year or was it like mindset or the field

00:42:02.699 --> 00:42:05.320
of athletes or yeah like what do you think it

00:42:05.320 --> 00:42:08.280
was you kind of just going into the world cups

00:42:08.280 --> 00:42:10.460
like your first season you kind of just don't

00:42:10.460 --> 00:42:13.039
know like you don't know what your level is going

00:42:13.039 --> 00:42:14.360
to be you don't know how the routes are going

00:42:14.360 --> 00:42:17.239
to feel and it is kind of scary and it is hard

00:42:17.239 --> 00:42:20.199
like Every route you pull on and you're like,

00:42:20.260 --> 00:42:23.199
oh my gosh, it's so hard at the first and second

00:42:23.199 --> 00:42:26.860
draw. And so I think there is a little bit of

00:42:26.860 --> 00:42:30.079
learning that happened. But basically, I mean,

00:42:30.079 --> 00:42:31.860
honestly, we just realized that I wasn't good

00:42:31.860 --> 00:42:35.079
enough. We realized that I wasn't in the shape

00:42:35.079 --> 00:42:37.760
that I needed to be in. I wasn't strong enough.

00:42:37.800 --> 00:42:40.199
I wasn't fit enough. And I don't think that's

00:42:40.199 --> 00:42:42.239
a bad thing. Like, I don't think it's bad to

00:42:42.239 --> 00:42:43.860
realize that you're not where you need to be.

00:42:44.139 --> 00:42:48.420
Because, I mean, like, you can get there. You

00:42:48.420 --> 00:42:50.179
just have to work for it and you have to commit

00:42:50.179 --> 00:42:52.599
to like doing everything you can to get better.

00:42:52.760 --> 00:42:55.960
Did you like just like ramp up your training

00:42:55.960 --> 00:42:59.000
a ton? Like it kind of gave you a kick in the

00:42:59.000 --> 00:43:01.699
ass to like work harder than you were before?

00:43:02.099 --> 00:43:05.260
I do think we stepped it up like quite a lot,

00:43:05.360 --> 00:43:09.760
especially on just like the fitness aspect of

00:43:09.760 --> 00:43:12.820
it. Just like every fitness thing that you can

00:43:12.820 --> 00:43:15.699
think of off the wall, like we're doing now.

00:43:16.380 --> 00:43:19.739
And so I am climbing more than I was last year,

00:43:19.840 --> 00:43:23.659
but I'm also doing a bunch of weights and running

00:43:23.659 --> 00:43:26.280
and like doing other things just to build more

00:43:26.280 --> 00:43:28.260
fitness and build more strength because I do

00:43:28.260 --> 00:43:30.519
think that's what you need. Like you go to the

00:43:30.519 --> 00:43:33.619
comps and I mean, everyone is in the best shape

00:43:33.619 --> 00:43:36.980
of their life. Yeah. Like you almost can't tell

00:43:36.980 --> 00:43:40.360
when you watch the comps, but when you're actually

00:43:40.360 --> 00:43:43.559
there and you see people, you're like, wow, everyone

00:43:43.559 --> 00:43:47.300
is very, very fit. And so I think it just takes

00:43:47.300 --> 00:43:52.420
time to get to that level and just, I don't know,

00:43:52.440 --> 00:43:55.699
like prioritizing recovery and trying to eat

00:43:55.699 --> 00:43:58.840
the best I can. Like everything goes together

00:43:58.840 --> 00:44:01.599
and you kind of have to commit to like doing

00:44:01.599 --> 00:44:05.599
everything and even sleeping. Like I think when

00:44:05.599 --> 00:44:07.619
you step up your training, you have to make sure

00:44:07.619 --> 00:44:09.360
that you're committed to like getting enough

00:44:09.360 --> 00:44:12.539
sleep. And yeah, because I wake up so early,

00:44:12.659 --> 00:44:17.079
I wake up at five -ish. Oh, geez. So I'm in bed

00:44:17.079 --> 00:44:21.099
by 8 .30 or 9 every single night. Wow. And I

00:44:21.099 --> 00:44:25.000
am really tired, but it's also like that's the

00:44:25.000 --> 00:44:27.380
only way that your body's going to recover and

00:44:27.380 --> 00:44:29.099
that you're going to be able to maintain like

00:44:29.099 --> 00:44:31.980
the same training level and keep going. Why do

00:44:31.980 --> 00:44:35.579
you wake up so early? Well, like because my dad

00:44:35.579 --> 00:44:40.159
coaches me, we go really early in the morning

00:44:40.159 --> 00:44:43.820
and then pretty like not late, but. I don't know

00:44:43.820 --> 00:44:47.559
like three to six usually in the afternoons and

00:44:47.559 --> 00:44:51.719
so then we're able to get like two really solid

00:44:51.719 --> 00:44:56.400
blocks in and I'm able to rest between sessions

00:44:56.400 --> 00:45:01.539
so I do feel like pretty recovered between the

00:45:01.539 --> 00:45:04.079
morning and the afternoon because of it's like

00:45:04.079 --> 00:45:07.579
four hour break usually sometimes not as long

00:45:07.579 --> 00:45:10.219
but it's enough time to like eat a good lunch

00:45:10.219 --> 00:45:12.780
and take a nap and then I get up and I'm like

00:45:13.039 --> 00:45:15.980
feel really good and ready to go back to the

00:45:15.980 --> 00:45:18.519
gym. Yeah. So what does your training routine

00:45:18.519 --> 00:45:20.739
look like? Like, is that how many days a week?

00:45:21.139 --> 00:45:26.440
I'm in the gym six days a week, but one of the

00:45:26.440 --> 00:45:31.179
days I don't climb at all. So on Mondays, I only

00:45:31.179 --> 00:45:34.539
work out in the mornings and then I have Monday

00:45:34.539 --> 00:45:37.599
nights off and then I have Fridays all the way

00:45:37.599 --> 00:45:42.059
off. And I find that like that's plenty for me

00:45:42.059 --> 00:45:45.559
to be recovered and to still have good sessions.

00:45:46.099 --> 00:45:49.239
So I guess what I always think is like everyone

00:45:49.239 --> 00:45:52.980
in the circuit is also training as hard as they

00:45:52.980 --> 00:45:55.519
can and like training as much as they can. And

00:45:55.519 --> 00:45:59.480
so how do you make improvements when everyone's

00:45:59.480 --> 00:46:01.760
trying to do the most? Like how do you train

00:46:01.760 --> 00:46:04.380
more than other people train? You know, that's

00:46:04.380 --> 00:46:07.559
a good question. I mean, you made it happen.

00:46:08.539 --> 00:46:12.880
I honestly I feel like a lot of us are doing

00:46:12.880 --> 00:46:17.320
the same thing like we on the five days a week

00:46:17.320 --> 00:46:19.659
that I climb like we're at the gym for seven

00:46:19.659 --> 00:46:22.840
hours a day and I think that that's probably

00:46:22.840 --> 00:46:25.900
pretty similar to what other people have said

00:46:25.900 --> 00:46:30.199
and I think it's it's not just about the time

00:46:30.199 --> 00:46:34.739
it's about like the intensity and my dad always

00:46:34.739 --> 00:46:37.829
says like whatever is the most intensity that

00:46:37.829 --> 00:46:40.130
you can handle that your body can handle that's

00:46:40.130 --> 00:46:42.289
what you should be doing because that's the only

00:46:42.289 --> 00:46:45.210
way that you'll get better and it is like if

00:46:45.210 --> 00:46:48.849
you're going to the gym and you're not pushing

00:46:48.849 --> 00:46:50.889
yourself as hard as you can you're not on the

00:46:50.889 --> 00:46:53.670
hardest routes that you know you can do like

00:46:53.670 --> 00:46:55.530
if you're just going through the motions it's

00:46:55.530 --> 00:46:59.789
going to be hard to improve because it's just

00:46:59.789 --> 00:47:01.929
like you have to push your body as hard as it

00:47:01.929 --> 00:47:07.630
can go and I don't know I think it it takes time

00:47:07.630 --> 00:47:09.650
to figure out like what kind of schedule works

00:47:09.650 --> 00:47:12.769
with that like we still adjust things if I don't

00:47:12.769 --> 00:47:14.750
like if I tell him that I don't think something's

00:47:14.750 --> 00:47:17.230
working then we talk about it and we try to fix

00:47:17.230 --> 00:47:21.570
it and so it's just like trying to plan what

00:47:21.570 --> 00:47:24.409
works for you not necessarily what works for

00:47:24.409 --> 00:47:28.070
other people because I know a lot of people that

00:47:28.070 --> 00:47:30.889
I've talked to will do like two days on one day

00:47:30.889 --> 00:47:35.090
off and we tried that And I just I hated it.

00:47:35.690 --> 00:47:40.489
Like I I like to know every day exactly what

00:47:40.489 --> 00:47:42.070
I'm going to do, what gyms we're going to go

00:47:42.070 --> 00:47:45.150
to and like exactly how things are going to work.

00:47:45.469 --> 00:47:48.150
And I found that with two days on one day off,

00:47:48.289 --> 00:47:51.909
it was like every week was different. And so

00:47:51.909 --> 00:47:55.150
things like things felt different to me. And

00:47:55.150 --> 00:47:58.789
with this schedule, it's like I wake up on Tuesday

00:47:58.789 --> 00:48:00.849
morning and I know exactly what we're going to

00:48:00.849 --> 00:48:04.010
do the whole day. And it's every Tuesday, it's

00:48:04.010 --> 00:48:06.190
going to be the exact same as it was last Tuesday.

00:48:06.849 --> 00:48:10.210
And I think like that's helpful for me. Some

00:48:10.210 --> 00:48:13.030
people might not like that. And so I think just

00:48:13.030 --> 00:48:15.510
like trying to adjust things until they work

00:48:15.510 --> 00:48:19.550
for you and for your system, like that's what's

00:48:19.550 --> 00:48:21.929
going to help you the most. Between like last

00:48:21.929 --> 00:48:24.710
year and this year, did you like increase the

00:48:24.710 --> 00:48:26.550
amount of time you're spending in the gym too?

00:48:26.710 --> 00:48:30.599
Or is it just like intentionality? Yeah, I think

00:48:30.599 --> 00:48:33.380
the amount of time for sure. I would say probably

00:48:33.380 --> 00:48:36.059
like an hour and a half extra every day. Oh,

00:48:36.059 --> 00:48:39.599
OK. I want to say just like the intention of

00:48:39.599 --> 00:48:41.719
like we're going to go and push as hard as we

00:48:41.719 --> 00:48:45.500
can and do everything that's on the schedule.

00:48:46.179 --> 00:48:49.079
I think it's just like consistency. It's really

00:48:49.079 --> 00:48:52.019
hard to get better if you're, you know, going

00:48:52.019 --> 00:48:53.840
really strong for two weeks and then you're like,

00:48:53.920 --> 00:48:57.340
let me let me take a break. Like you have to.

00:48:57.960 --> 00:49:01.719
Push yourself as hard as you can for a long time

00:49:01.719 --> 00:49:06.300
in order to get better. Like we had a fairly

00:49:06.300 --> 00:49:09.619
long preseason before this season because we

00:49:09.619 --> 00:49:13.280
knew I needed it. Like we built a schedule and

00:49:13.280 --> 00:49:16.840
I don't know, like right after I went to world

00:49:16.840 --> 00:49:19.820
champs, we started pushing like really, really

00:49:19.820 --> 00:49:22.199
hard so that I would be ready to try to make

00:49:22.199 --> 00:49:26.159
the team in February. So what is that? Four months,

00:49:26.260 --> 00:49:30.539
I think. and like I could tell I could tell that

00:49:30.539 --> 00:49:34.159
I felt a lot stronger and I also think like when

00:49:34.159 --> 00:49:35.739
you know that you're doing everything you can

00:49:35.739 --> 00:49:40.239
it is easier to be more confident true because

00:49:40.239 --> 00:49:43.639
like I can tell myself that I know that there's

00:49:43.639 --> 00:49:45.840
nothing else I could have done to prepare myself

00:49:45.840 --> 00:49:48.639
and I know that it's true and it's not just something

00:49:48.639 --> 00:49:51.900
I'm saying and I think that is kind of helpful

00:49:52.460 --> 00:49:55.599
That makes sense. So in terms of things that

00:49:55.599 --> 00:49:58.179
you decided to cut out and things that you thought

00:49:58.179 --> 00:49:59.780
were actually really helpful in your training,

00:50:00.019 --> 00:50:03.219
I guess let's get into some of those. I think

00:50:03.219 --> 00:50:06.099
you mentioned one thing you actually found really

00:50:06.099 --> 00:50:09.739
helpful was like auto belays. I just like them.

00:50:09.900 --> 00:50:14.219
I think that I would say half of my lead sessions

00:50:14.219 --> 00:50:18.860
I end on auto belays. Just it's a way to get

00:50:18.860 --> 00:50:23.610
like more routes in. It's just kind of fun and

00:50:23.610 --> 00:50:27.530
different. I find, like, my gym, they reset them

00:50:27.530 --> 00:50:32.769
a lot. Like, we had routes up on lead that were

00:50:32.769 --> 00:50:37.030
up for a year. Whoa. Yeah, and this was, like,

00:50:37.050 --> 00:50:39.849
through the arch. So one of the, like, more,

00:50:40.070 --> 00:50:43.329
like, one of the lead areas that we use more

00:50:43.329 --> 00:50:46.489
often, I want to say they reset the auto belays,

00:50:46.550 --> 00:50:50.610
like, five times in that block. Yeah, I don't

00:50:50.610 --> 00:50:54.010
know the schedule. I really don't. But it's just

00:50:54.010 --> 00:50:57.230
like something different. Okay. I even, I was,

00:50:57.329 --> 00:50:59.610
just the other day I was talking to my dad about

00:50:59.610 --> 00:51:04.010
how if I was climbing recreationally, I would

00:51:04.010 --> 00:51:06.809
always go for an auto belay before I went for

00:51:06.809 --> 00:51:09.690
bouldering. Maybe that's a hot take. Interesting.

00:51:10.070 --> 00:51:13.550
Maybe that's a hot take. But I love an auto belay.

00:51:13.630 --> 00:51:16.929
I think that they're so fun. And it is, like

00:51:16.929 --> 00:51:20.130
when, if I ever coach kids, like when I coach

00:51:20.130 --> 00:51:23.679
them, always finish on the auto blaze because

00:51:23.679 --> 00:51:26.000
it's like you're super dead from lead routes

00:51:26.000 --> 00:51:29.199
why not do a couple more well it would always

00:51:29.199 --> 00:51:33.300
be like vertical ish right yeah like no overhang

00:51:33.300 --> 00:51:36.780
so it's i think it's more like a cool down but

00:51:36.780 --> 00:51:41.039
it does like it gets more routes in and i just

00:51:41.039 --> 00:51:43.159
think it's different like because of our gym

00:51:43.159 --> 00:51:46.900
situation we're in it's like we're on the same

00:51:46.900 --> 00:51:51.820
routes a lot yeah i'm actually like their setting

00:51:51.820 --> 00:51:55.139
specials like once a year I don't I don't actually

00:51:55.139 --> 00:51:57.519
know what happened because I feel like it's not

00:51:57.519 --> 00:52:00.780
but the routes through the arch were up from

00:52:00.780 --> 00:52:04.820
July to July so that's kind of wild so I don't

00:52:04.820 --> 00:52:08.820
know but but I guess I just don't really understand

00:52:08.820 --> 00:52:12.539
how you train on that at like a high level I

00:52:12.539 --> 00:52:15.400
don't know if it's like I don't it's definitely

00:52:15.400 --> 00:52:18.900
not like a big part of training But it's just

00:52:18.900 --> 00:52:21.619
like a cool down. Like I'll finish my routes

00:52:21.619 --> 00:52:24.539
and maybe I'll do like two audible A's. Right.

00:52:24.579 --> 00:52:29.619
Like 13, two 13s, sometimes 12s up down. Like

00:52:29.619 --> 00:52:31.900
it just kind of depends. But I do think it's

00:52:31.900 --> 00:52:34.320
just something different. Like and I mean right

00:52:34.320 --> 00:52:36.579
when you get off your lead routes, like you come

00:52:36.579 --> 00:52:40.099
down, you run over there and you do them. And

00:52:40.099 --> 00:52:41.860
it's like it does kind of help to cool you down

00:52:41.860 --> 00:52:45.880
and you still are tired from the lead that you

00:52:45.880 --> 00:52:51.139
did. What's crazy is when we were in Italy training,

00:52:51.400 --> 00:52:55.599
they had lead auto belays. Really? Yes. And I

00:52:55.599 --> 00:52:57.099
had never seen that before. Wait, how does that

00:52:57.099 --> 00:53:01.500
even work? It was like at the, and this was on

00:53:01.500 --> 00:53:04.119
steep walls. So I didn't really know, but I never

00:53:04.119 --> 00:53:07.239
seen this before. It was like a box with a lead

00:53:07.239 --> 00:53:09.380
rope in it. And I guess you just tie in and like,

00:53:09.420 --> 00:53:13.300
as you go up, you clip the draw. And then in

00:53:13.300 --> 00:53:16.960
theory, you fall and it catches you. But that,

00:53:17.280 --> 00:53:19.920
seems like too much for me so it comes from the

00:53:19.920 --> 00:53:23.400
bottom it comes yeah yeah what that's crazy i

00:53:23.400 --> 00:53:26.099
know i had never seen that before so you would

00:53:26.099 --> 00:53:29.920
love that i don't think so like i could not bring

00:53:29.920 --> 00:53:34.219
myself to tie into that yeah and i like do people

00:53:34.219 --> 00:53:38.019
use them i don't know because i never saw someone

00:53:38.019 --> 00:53:42.440
use one the the concept like it makes sense in

00:53:42.440 --> 00:53:44.639
theory and then you think about doing it and

00:53:44.639 --> 00:53:49.840
i'm like I don't know. Like surely the fall would

00:53:49.840 --> 00:53:53.059
not be comfortable. I want to see a video of

00:53:53.059 --> 00:53:56.619
it working. Do you have any videos of it? I don't

00:53:56.619 --> 00:53:59.199
know because literally nobody climbed on it.

00:53:59.519 --> 00:54:01.960
But I'll try to find one because that's very

00:54:01.960 --> 00:54:04.059
interesting. But yeah, I was not going to be

00:54:04.059 --> 00:54:07.820
the one to test it out before competing. But

00:54:07.820 --> 00:54:11.760
yeah, genuinely never heard of that before. And

00:54:11.760 --> 00:54:13.559
they had them in like quite a few of the gyms.

00:54:13.559 --> 00:54:15.380
I want to say three out of four of the gyms had

00:54:15.380 --> 00:54:18.000
them. Yeah so I mean that would never fly here

00:54:18.000 --> 00:54:21.559
because a lot of the gyms I go to now aren't

00:54:21.559 --> 00:54:23.880
even allowed to have regular auto belays because

00:54:23.880 --> 00:54:30.000
of like liability issues. So yeah that would

00:54:30.000 --> 00:54:32.940
never happen here. But yeah honestly I do think

00:54:32.940 --> 00:54:36.659
that like I would rather climb on an auto belay

00:54:36.659 --> 00:54:39.539
than boulder like if I was going for fun which

00:54:39.539 --> 00:54:41.840
I don't think a lot of people would agree with.

00:54:42.639 --> 00:54:45.090
Yeah I mean I guess with bouldering you would

00:54:45.090 --> 00:54:49.150
get more like hard move variety yeah into your

00:54:49.150 --> 00:54:52.590
training yeah like I feel like if you're going

00:54:52.590 --> 00:54:56.309
recreationally like the concept is fun yeah for

00:54:56.309 --> 00:55:00.530
sure but I think earlier I was saying I'm surprised

00:55:00.530 --> 00:55:03.230
that you even get high level training in if your

00:55:03.230 --> 00:55:06.130
lead routes don't get reset that often we do

00:55:06.130 --> 00:55:09.889
our best like it's I would say the situation

00:55:09.889 --> 00:55:13.989
is less than ideal but Yeah, we do our best.

00:55:14.110 --> 00:55:20.110
It's, like, I think for me, I don't feel the

00:55:20.110 --> 00:55:22.469
need to, like, really complain about the gyms

00:55:22.469 --> 00:55:24.409
because, like, the reality is that I have no

00:55:24.409 --> 00:55:27.710
choice. Yeah. But do you just, like, climb the

00:55:27.710 --> 00:55:30.630
same lead route over and over again? Yeah. Yeah.

00:55:30.969 --> 00:55:33.750
Interesting. There's, I think, I want to say

00:55:33.750 --> 00:55:41.449
four 13s up and maybe eight 12s. And, like, basically

00:55:41.449 --> 00:55:44.230
we do them all every time. That's your, like,

00:55:44.289 --> 00:55:47.710
climbing training routine? Mm -hmm. Interesting.

00:55:47.829 --> 00:55:50.469
So, like, I get a lot of reps in on these routes

00:55:50.469 --> 00:55:53.730
because we do lead, like, at this gym three days

00:55:53.730 --> 00:55:56.710
a week, and then we go to another lead gym, but

00:55:56.710 --> 00:56:00.849
it's, like, pretty small. Like, the other lead

00:56:00.849 --> 00:56:05.989
gym, 30 feet, and there's no AC. Oh, my gosh,

00:56:06.030 --> 00:56:08.900
in Arizona. Yeah. And, like, they don't even

00:56:08.900 --> 00:56:12.039
do monochromatic coloring. Like, they have tape.

00:56:12.039 --> 00:56:14.780
Oh, it's old school. Yeah. Wow. But we make it

00:56:14.780 --> 00:56:18.340
work. Like, that's part of the fun of it, making

00:56:18.340 --> 00:56:21.739
it work with what you have. Huh. And even recently,

00:56:21.960 --> 00:56:25.000
like, we got more bouldering gyms. Do you, like,

00:56:25.000 --> 00:56:28.159
make up your own lead routes? Is that a thing

00:56:28.159 --> 00:56:31.079
people do? I've actually heard of them doing

00:56:31.079 --> 00:56:33.940
that in Japan, but I don't think they fill in

00:56:33.940 --> 00:56:37.489
enough where we live to, like, be able to do

00:56:37.489 --> 00:56:41.869
that. Also, how would you remember? The legions

00:56:41.869 --> 00:56:45.329
in Japan are so full. How are you remembering

00:56:45.329 --> 00:56:50.269
any of the holds? Yeah, I am not the one to ask

00:56:50.269 --> 00:56:53.550
about that. I'm more of the kind of climber where

00:56:53.550 --> 00:56:56.230
I start to read something and I'm like, I got

00:56:56.230 --> 00:56:57.929
kind of bored reading, so I'm just going to get

00:56:57.929 --> 00:57:01.190
on it now. Yeah. No, I think that's fair. Well,

00:57:01.329 --> 00:57:04.429
it's impressive that you managed to get where

00:57:04.429 --> 00:57:07.619
you are with not with just climbing the same

00:57:07.619 --> 00:57:09.480
lead route over and over again. That's wild.

00:57:10.679 --> 00:57:14.920
So in terms of training tactics that you didn't

00:57:14.920 --> 00:57:16.880
find helpful, you mentioned that you don't feel

00:57:16.880 --> 00:57:18.440
like hangboarding. Was that helpful for you?

00:57:18.659 --> 00:57:23.460
I think that like for a lot of climbers that

00:57:23.460 --> 00:57:25.539
started when they were really young, I feel like

00:57:25.539 --> 00:57:28.320
for the most part, your hands are already pretty

00:57:28.320 --> 00:57:31.519
built up. Like I started when I was three. And

00:57:31.519 --> 00:57:35.210
so like, I don't feel like I have. a crimping

00:57:35.210 --> 00:57:38.369
problem at all and I feel like a lot of people

00:57:38.369 --> 00:57:41.110
that compete on the circuit probably have a similar

00:57:41.110 --> 00:57:45.389
feeling I think I would actually recommend that

00:57:45.389 --> 00:57:48.690
people climb on the moon board over hangboarding

00:57:48.690 --> 00:57:51.710
because I feel like then you're getting the crimps

00:57:51.710 --> 00:57:55.349
and the pulling I don't know I even I see so

00:57:55.349 --> 00:57:57.909
many people at the gyms we go to like warming

00:57:57.909 --> 00:58:01.550
up like with the the crimp block with the weights

00:58:01.550 --> 00:58:04.880
on the floor Like, I feel like I need, like,

00:58:05.000 --> 00:58:08.260
jugs. And, like, I need to warm up a lot before

00:58:08.260 --> 00:58:10.500
I'm, like, pulling on my hands like that. But

00:58:10.500 --> 00:58:13.260
whatever works for people. I don't know. But,

00:58:13.320 --> 00:58:15.059
yeah, I have found that, like, the moon board

00:58:15.059 --> 00:58:19.840
I prefer over hanging on the hang board. Yeah.

00:58:19.960 --> 00:58:24.130
I mean, I agree with that. But I also just kind

00:58:24.130 --> 00:58:26.409
of don't like hangboarding because it's, like,

00:58:26.429 --> 00:58:29.989
super boring. But I guess I thought that it would

00:58:29.989 --> 00:58:33.710
at least maybe be more helpful for lead climbers

00:58:33.710 --> 00:58:36.510
rather than boulders because you're, like, spending

00:58:36.510 --> 00:58:39.489
more time on the wall and kind of on smaller

00:58:39.489 --> 00:58:43.329
holds in lead, it seems like, in terms of, like,

00:58:43.329 --> 00:58:46.250
competition -wise. I think that's probably, like,

00:58:46.389 --> 00:58:50.219
I think we definitely are on smaller holds. for

00:58:50.219 --> 00:58:52.440
the most part like I think for bouldering they

00:58:52.440 --> 00:58:56.400
use like a lot bigger volumes and stuff but I

00:58:56.400 --> 00:58:59.719
don't know that we're ever crimping that small

00:58:59.719 --> 00:59:02.719
I don't know like I don't feel like the crimps

00:59:02.719 --> 00:59:06.079
are that small to where it's like I feel like

00:59:06.079 --> 00:59:10.360
it's a detriment to not hangboard I do think

00:59:10.360 --> 00:59:12.719
that in terms of like things that I struggle

00:59:12.719 --> 00:59:14.699
with more it is like a little bit more power

00:59:14.699 --> 00:59:18.300
and pulling and so I find that like the moonboard

00:59:18.860 --> 00:59:21.340
And even the TB2 is like an easier way for me

00:59:21.340 --> 00:59:23.579
to work on that. But you think a lot of it is

00:59:23.579 --> 00:59:26.460
because like the people on the circuit grew up

00:59:26.460 --> 00:59:29.659
climbing and so they already have strong fingers

00:59:29.659 --> 00:59:33.980
from that. Yeah, I do. I think, I mean, if you

00:59:33.980 --> 00:59:36.500
started climbing when you were five, your hands

00:59:36.500 --> 00:59:39.400
have probably built up like a lot of the crimping

00:59:39.400 --> 00:59:42.260
ability that they need to. I guess moving on

00:59:42.260 --> 00:59:46.139
to... your like health issues that you had kind

00:59:46.139 --> 00:59:48.000
of brought up earlier are you like comfortable

00:59:48.000 --> 00:59:54.739
going into that yeah for sure I think there was

00:59:54.739 --> 00:59:59.699
a period of my life where basically every time

00:59:59.699 --> 01:00:03.760
I ate like I would feel so so sick and I had

01:00:03.760 --> 01:00:06.860
the worst insomnia ever like I was maybe sleeping

01:00:06.860 --> 01:00:10.039
like three or four hours a night and my stomach

01:00:10.039 --> 01:00:13.980
would hurt all the time and I had like really

01:00:13.980 --> 01:00:18.679
bad brain fog to the point where a school assignment

01:00:18.679 --> 01:00:21.119
that should take me like 30 minutes would take

01:00:21.119 --> 01:00:25.599
like three to four hours it was that bad I couldn't

01:00:25.599 --> 01:00:29.820
I felt like I had no brain ability and when I

01:00:29.820 --> 01:00:33.280
would try to climb like I felt like I had no

01:00:33.280 --> 01:00:37.219
power in my arms at all and this I want to say

01:00:37.219 --> 01:00:40.099
went on for like eight months and I just never

01:00:40.099 --> 01:00:44.179
said anything oh geez and No one could tell?

01:00:44.980 --> 01:00:47.659
I mean, I think it was hard because like I still

01:00:47.659 --> 01:00:51.920
was eating and I was submitting my assignments

01:00:51.920 --> 01:00:55.039
and I was doing like I was going to the gym.

01:00:56.139 --> 01:01:00.739
But I just like felt super off and I was getting

01:01:00.739 --> 01:01:05.079
sick like I want to say every couple weeks. And

01:01:05.079 --> 01:01:07.980
so I think my parents were just like, wow, you

01:01:07.980 --> 01:01:09.559
just keep getting sick. Like that's probably

01:01:09.559 --> 01:01:11.880
why you're tired and not feeling well because

01:01:11.880 --> 01:01:15.710
I was sick. a lot because my body just couldn't

01:01:15.710 --> 01:01:19.769
fight off anything and so I was trying to train

01:01:19.769 --> 01:01:21.570
and like I was trying to push myself as hard

01:01:21.570 --> 01:01:24.869
as I could but I just like I just felt so bad

01:01:24.869 --> 01:01:29.710
all the time and I ended up qualifying for youth

01:01:29.710 --> 01:01:34.750
worlds in Korea like that for lead and it just

01:01:34.750 --> 01:01:37.250
at that point it had been like seven months and

01:01:37.250 --> 01:01:40.030
I was like man like what's going on like I can't

01:01:40.030 --> 01:01:46.000
do anything and We ended up going to Korea and

01:01:46.000 --> 01:01:50.659
I climbed so bad. Like, I don't even know what

01:01:50.659 --> 01:01:52.980
place I got, but I don't actually think that

01:01:52.980 --> 01:01:55.760
I even bouldered that bad at a World Cup. Like,

01:01:55.780 --> 01:01:59.039
I want to say I got like 45th or something. And

01:01:59.039 --> 01:02:03.179
my parents were just like, what? Like, what was

01:02:03.179 --> 01:02:06.639
that? Like, that was crazy. And then I ended

01:02:06.639 --> 01:02:09.480
up telling them all my symptoms. And, of course,

01:02:09.500 --> 01:02:11.400
they were like, why didn't you say something?

01:02:11.599 --> 01:02:14.539
Like, we could have gone to the doctor. And I

01:02:14.539 --> 01:02:17.400
was just like, I didn't know. Like, I didn't

01:02:17.400 --> 01:02:19.119
want people to know that I was struggling so

01:02:19.119 --> 01:02:22.860
much. And, like, I mean, it felt like every session

01:02:22.860 --> 01:02:25.340
I went to, like, I was just exhausted. And, like,

01:02:25.360 --> 01:02:28.599
I could barely even summon the energy to get

01:02:28.599 --> 01:02:31.559
myself to the gym. And so, like, I wasn't climbing

01:02:31.559 --> 01:02:33.880
that well. But I was trying the best I could.

01:02:34.579 --> 01:02:38.289
And so after we got home from Korea. We went

01:02:38.289 --> 01:02:41.670
to the doctor and they did a blood test for me

01:02:41.670 --> 01:02:47.250
and they tested my B12 levels. And it turned

01:02:47.250 --> 01:02:51.309
out that my levels were like 150 when for the

01:02:51.309 --> 01:02:57.070
typical person, they're like 900. And so the

01:02:57.070 --> 01:02:59.150
doctor was like, yeah, that's kind of bad. Just

01:02:59.150 --> 01:03:03.389
start taking vitamins like over the counter.

01:03:03.610 --> 01:03:06.469
And so I was like, surely that's not what's causing

01:03:06.469 --> 01:03:10.599
this. But I started taking the vitamins and then

01:03:10.599 --> 01:03:14.039
a couple of months went by and we went to elite

01:03:14.039 --> 01:03:17.440
nationals in Idaho and I wasn't feeling better.

01:03:17.500 --> 01:03:19.280
And it was like the same thing again. Like I

01:03:19.280 --> 01:03:22.800
climbed so bad and I honestly, I wanted to quit.

01:03:22.860 --> 01:03:24.940
I didn't even want to go to Idaho. I told my

01:03:24.940 --> 01:03:26.679
mom, I was like, I'm not feeling better. Like

01:03:26.679 --> 01:03:29.139
I'm not going to do well. I don't want to go.

01:03:29.679 --> 01:03:33.679
And she was like, let's just go and see how it

01:03:33.679 --> 01:03:36.550
works out. And it didn't go well. And it was

01:03:36.550 --> 01:03:39.190
like, it even more reinforced my idea of like,

01:03:39.210 --> 01:03:41.329
I'm just so tired of this. Like, it's not even

01:03:41.329 --> 01:03:45.510
fun to climb anymore. And after that, we went

01:03:45.510 --> 01:03:48.269
back to the doctor and they were like, okay,

01:03:48.309 --> 01:03:52.250
let's start doing shots. And so they started

01:03:52.250 --> 01:03:58.510
giving me like B12 injections. And I was getting

01:03:58.510 --> 01:04:02.389
them once a week. I did that for like two months.

01:04:03.039 --> 01:04:05.739
And I like I actually felt like the life come

01:04:05.739 --> 01:04:08.920
back to me. Like I felt like a whole different

01:04:08.920 --> 01:04:11.559
person because I had never felt that bad in my

01:04:11.559 --> 01:04:13.139
life. And that's why I was like, maybe it'll

01:04:13.139 --> 01:04:16.179
go away. Like maybe something's just I don't

01:04:16.179 --> 01:04:18.400
know. Like I just couldn't figure out why I was

01:04:18.400 --> 01:04:22.539
feeling so bad. And then once I started getting

01:04:22.539 --> 01:04:25.639
them again, like the shots, I felt so much better

01:04:25.639 --> 01:04:29.280
because you don't think like. Like if someone

01:04:29.280 --> 01:04:31.579
was telling me that a vitamin deficiency would

01:04:31.579 --> 01:04:34.000
make me feel like that. Yeah, I've like never

01:04:34.000 --> 01:04:37.400
heard of that before. Seriously, they told us

01:04:37.400 --> 01:04:39.599
that and I was like, that cannot be right. Like

01:04:39.599 --> 01:04:42.139
that cannot be the issue. There's just no way.

01:04:42.719 --> 01:04:46.980
And so I had the shots and I was feeling so much

01:04:46.980 --> 01:04:49.920
better. And then they were like, okay, you don't

01:04:49.920 --> 01:04:52.440
need them anymore. Or like you can get them once

01:04:52.440 --> 01:04:54.320
a month. Like you're fine. Your levels are back.

01:04:55.599 --> 01:04:58.059
And so I was like, OK, because I was feeling

01:04:58.059 --> 01:05:01.139
better and like I didn't know. And so I started

01:05:01.139 --> 01:05:04.860
training again and climbing more. And yeah, I

01:05:04.860 --> 01:05:07.579
ended up getting sick again, like not to the

01:05:07.579 --> 01:05:10.920
same extent. But I kind of knew like once I started

01:05:10.920 --> 01:05:12.980
feeling bad, I was like, OK, I'll tell my parents

01:05:12.980 --> 01:05:15.500
and we'll go back in. Yeah. And so it's kind

01:05:15.500 --> 01:05:18.559
of just since then been like trying to figure

01:05:18.559 --> 01:05:22.679
out what I actually need, like how often I need

01:05:22.679 --> 01:05:25.340
the shots and like. I've gotten my blood drawn

01:05:25.340 --> 01:05:27.960
a bunch just to find out like what my levels

01:05:27.960 --> 01:05:31.639
are, because you don't. You don't really know,

01:05:31.800 --> 01:05:34.199
like it's hard to know how often your body needs

01:05:34.199 --> 01:05:38.019
it. And even last season, like we went to China

01:05:38.019 --> 01:05:40.019
for two and a half weeks and I didn't get a shot

01:05:40.019 --> 01:05:41.920
the whole time. And by the time we got back,

01:05:42.000 --> 01:05:44.340
I was like, yeah, I could just tell like I was

01:05:44.340 --> 01:05:47.500
feeling kind of run down. And it was the same.

01:05:47.519 --> 01:05:49.800
We went to Innsbruck for three weeks and actually

01:05:49.800 --> 01:05:52.559
right before the comp, I was like, we have to

01:05:52.559 --> 01:05:55.050
do something like I. I'm feeling so sick again.

01:05:55.269 --> 01:05:58.849
And we ended up like scouring the Internet for

01:05:58.849 --> 01:06:01.050
a doctor's office that would be able to give

01:06:01.050 --> 01:06:06.849
me a B12 shot in Innsbruck. Yeah. And it's like

01:06:06.849 --> 01:06:10.110
obviously that's not the ideal situation. And

01:06:10.110 --> 01:06:12.710
so this season we have been like we went back

01:06:12.710 --> 01:06:16.469
into the doctor and they taught my dad how to

01:06:16.469 --> 01:06:19.969
give me the shots. And I learned how to do it.

01:06:20.050 --> 01:06:22.389
And so now like when we travel. I'm just able

01:06:22.389 --> 01:06:25.949
to do it to myself. So now, like, I'm getting

01:06:25.949 --> 01:06:28.809
an injection once a week. Oh, that's a lot. To

01:06:28.809 --> 01:06:32.969
make sure that, like, yeah. Because I don't know.

01:06:33.010 --> 01:06:36.309
I guess they said, like, the more stress your

01:06:36.309 --> 01:06:39.369
body's under and the more stress you're facing,

01:06:39.550 --> 01:06:42.550
then, like, it'll make you feel more depleted.

01:06:43.230 --> 01:06:45.590
And so just because of, like, what I'm doing,

01:06:45.710 --> 01:06:49.150
then I need once a week. But when I have them,

01:06:49.190 --> 01:06:52.280
like, right now I'm feeling great. And so I think

01:06:52.280 --> 01:06:56.519
like that did play a role because I was training

01:06:56.519 --> 01:06:59.679
as much as I could at the time. But I just I

01:06:59.679 --> 01:07:02.340
couldn't give a lot of energy to it because I

01:07:02.340 --> 01:07:05.159
just didn't have any energy. Oh, yeah, for sure.

01:07:05.199 --> 01:07:07.679
And so it was like I was trying like I still

01:07:07.679 --> 01:07:11.179
made youth worlds, but it just I just didn't

01:07:11.179 --> 01:07:15.460
feel like myself for like quite a while. And

01:07:15.460 --> 01:07:17.739
then right when we started to figure that out,

01:07:17.780 --> 01:07:20.989
then I injured my knee. so it was like eight

01:07:20.989 --> 01:07:25.530
months in a knee brace and like trying to climbing

01:07:25.530 --> 01:07:29.809
related or it was but the weird thing was I did

01:07:29.809 --> 01:07:34.750
it on lead yeah like I don't know I was just

01:07:34.750 --> 01:07:36.530
on a route and like something in my knee popped

01:07:36.530 --> 01:07:40.090
and yeah and so then like that made it tricky

01:07:40.090 --> 01:07:43.210
but yeah basically like the first comp I did

01:07:43.210 --> 01:07:46.650
back where I didn't have any knee issues and

01:07:46.650 --> 01:07:51.690
I wasn't sick was team trials in Austin last

01:07:51.690 --> 01:07:56.750
year I guess now year and a half ago yeah and

01:07:56.750 --> 01:08:01.070
I did pretty well and since then it's like I

01:08:01.070 --> 01:08:03.110
don't know we have stepped it up and like just

01:08:03.110 --> 01:08:05.510
because I'm able to now but yeah it was definitely

01:08:05.510 --> 01:08:08.690
tough because it's hard just not just like to

01:08:08.690 --> 01:08:11.190
not know what's going on with you oh yeah it's

01:08:11.190 --> 01:08:13.510
like it's hard because you feel so off and like

01:08:13.510 --> 01:08:16.789
you do want to commit more to training and like

01:08:16.789 --> 01:08:20.720
trying to compete but I just couldn't like my

01:08:20.720 --> 01:08:24.060
body just couldn't do it and I think that's okay

01:08:24.060 --> 01:08:27.760
like if I could change anything I would have

01:08:27.760 --> 01:08:30.000
said something like immediately because I do

01:08:30.000 --> 01:08:31.899
think it would have saved me like a lot of time

01:08:31.899 --> 01:08:36.479
and hardship but it's like that's the decision

01:08:36.479 --> 01:08:39.159
I made at the time and so it's like now we can

01:08:39.159 --> 01:08:43.100
just continue from there but I do feel like that's

01:08:43.100 --> 01:08:46.600
part of the reason that it's like taken me a

01:08:46.600 --> 01:08:51.239
bit to reach a higher level because it just like

01:08:51.239 --> 01:08:54.199
it does take so much time to build up fitness

01:08:54.199 --> 01:08:58.180
and so I did have like basically two years where

01:08:58.180 --> 01:09:01.840
I wasn't able to train like how I wanted to and

01:09:01.840 --> 01:09:06.199
so even though I do know that I was doing the

01:09:06.199 --> 01:09:09.199
best I could like it obviously was not the level

01:09:09.199 --> 01:09:12.239
that I'm training now and so I think that's why

01:09:12.239 --> 01:09:16.550
it seems like it's a really big jump. Just because

01:09:16.550 --> 01:09:19.930
like I was having so many health issues. That

01:09:19.930 --> 01:09:25.109
makes sense. So I guess to like recap on how

01:09:25.109 --> 01:09:28.250
to like train harder, make sure that your health

01:09:28.250 --> 01:09:31.569
is in check and try as hard as you can. Yeah,

01:09:31.609 --> 01:09:34.890
I'd say that's it. It's just really hard if you're

01:09:34.890 --> 01:09:38.430
injured to train how you need to be training.

01:09:38.670 --> 01:09:41.050
That's why I do feel like recovery is pretty

01:09:41.050 --> 01:09:43.510
important. Like making sure that you're stretching

01:09:43.510 --> 01:09:47.579
and... Even getting massages and getting needling

01:09:47.579 --> 01:09:51.939
and doing cupping at home, I think it all helps.

01:09:53.640 --> 01:09:55.899
You're not able to train as hard as you want

01:09:55.899 --> 01:09:58.060
to if you're not recovered the way that you need

01:09:58.060 --> 01:10:00.439
to be. Okay. Well, thanks for sharing. That's

01:10:00.439 --> 01:10:04.199
crazy to hear. And maybe if anyone is experiencing

01:10:04.199 --> 01:10:07.039
similar symptoms, they can get that checked out.

01:10:07.390 --> 01:10:10.829
Yeah, seriously. So going on to your goals for

01:10:10.829 --> 01:10:14.649
the future, do you have an idea for like the

01:10:14.649 --> 01:10:17.350
rest of the season and next season, which I guess

01:10:17.350 --> 01:10:20.310
is Olympic qualifier season? Is that something

01:10:20.310 --> 01:10:24.390
you're interested in? I mean, yeah, I think like

01:10:24.390 --> 01:10:26.829
everyone's got to be like it's got to be in the

01:10:26.829 --> 01:10:29.149
back of everyone's mind. But I do think like

01:10:29.149 --> 01:10:32.850
making a final was like a huge deal for me. And

01:10:32.850 --> 01:10:35.609
so I think that was cool. But I think just like

01:10:35.609 --> 01:10:37.649
trying to do the best I can and try to finish

01:10:37.649 --> 01:10:40.829
out the season strong and have another good preseason.

01:10:41.470 --> 01:10:43.970
I don't know. I really am like focused on just

01:10:43.970 --> 01:10:46.449
doing the best I can because I think like that's

01:10:46.449 --> 01:10:48.729
all you can do. And I think once you start worrying

01:10:48.729 --> 01:10:51.250
about like, oh, if I do this, then that means

01:10:51.250 --> 01:10:53.550
that for my future. It's like it can get in your

01:10:53.550 --> 01:10:57.130
head and it does make it harder to perform the

01:10:57.130 --> 01:11:00.569
way you want to. I don't know. So just like.

01:11:01.069 --> 01:11:03.130
Doing what I can in training so that I can do

01:11:03.130 --> 01:11:06.170
the best I can at the comps. Like, that's kind

01:11:06.170 --> 01:11:10.829
of my perspective. I think, like, because nobody

01:11:10.829 --> 01:11:15.810
around me, like, competes at this level and I

01:11:15.810 --> 01:11:20.350
never see anyone in training, it is a little

01:11:20.350 --> 01:11:22.449
bit easier for me to have that perspective because

01:11:22.449 --> 01:11:24.890
I do go to the comps and I'm like, nobody knows

01:11:24.890 --> 01:11:28.229
where I'm at, including me. So it's like... we're

01:11:28.229 --> 01:11:31.170
all gonna find out together I think that's I

01:11:31.170 --> 01:11:33.489
think that's kind of nice because like of course

01:11:33.489 --> 01:11:36.369
my dad can tell me like oh you're your level's

01:11:36.369 --> 01:11:38.210
really good like it's gonna be good and like

01:11:38.210 --> 01:11:40.390
I can feel that I have gotten stronger and like

01:11:40.390 --> 01:11:45.010
I can see that like the work is paying off but

01:11:45.010 --> 01:11:47.750
then you don't know like how you're gonna compare

01:11:47.750 --> 01:11:50.449
to other people when you go to the comps like

01:11:50.449 --> 01:11:52.930
I really felt like that going into nationals

01:11:52.930 --> 01:11:55.670
and team trials this year because I really had

01:11:55.670 --> 01:11:58.689
no idea like we had a really really good preseason

01:11:58.689 --> 01:12:02.729
and I was like okay like let's let's see like

01:12:02.729 --> 01:12:06.510
let's see what what I can do and it is kind of

01:12:06.510 --> 01:12:08.449
fun to do that like I felt that a little bit

01:12:08.449 --> 01:12:11.590
going into China like I had no expectations really

01:12:11.590 --> 01:12:14.069
it's like let me just do the best I can and like

01:12:14.069 --> 01:12:17.289
see how it turns out and it ended up being like

01:12:17.289 --> 01:12:20.350
plus away from finals it's like it is kind of

01:12:20.350 --> 01:12:23.050
fun to have that what becomes hard is like then

01:12:23.050 --> 01:12:25.930
you start putting Like, more expectations on

01:12:25.930 --> 01:12:27.930
yourself. Yeah, for sure. Because it was, like,

01:12:28.010 --> 01:12:30.510
I did do really well in the first two comps of

01:12:30.510 --> 01:12:33.350
the season. And it's like, okay, then you do

01:12:33.350 --> 01:12:36.350
want to continue that. And so it can become more

01:12:36.350 --> 01:12:40.029
stressful of, like, I was really good last week.

01:12:40.170 --> 01:12:42.989
Like, I need to really focus. And it doesn't

01:12:42.989 --> 01:12:45.909
make it easier. Like, it really makes it a lot

01:12:45.909 --> 01:12:49.250
harder to have that perspective, I think. And

01:12:49.250 --> 01:12:53.090
so just, like, yeah, trying to focus on, I don't

01:12:53.090 --> 01:12:55.409
know, doing the best I can. showing up as my

01:12:55.409 --> 01:12:57.689
best self yeah I guess that's like a very chill

01:12:57.689 --> 01:13:01.470
way to think about it or the chillest way I've

01:13:01.470 --> 01:13:04.630
heard at least talking to several athletes um

01:13:04.630 --> 01:13:09.250
do you like aspire to be like in the comp scene

01:13:09.250 --> 01:13:12.470
for a long time or like have a career in climbing

01:13:12.470 --> 01:13:15.289
I think for sure like I'm really enjoying it

01:13:15.289 --> 01:13:20.189
this season I think I really enjoy training like

01:13:20.189 --> 01:13:23.699
I enjoy the process And so I think like as long

01:13:23.699 --> 01:13:26.220
as I'm enjoying it, I'll keep going. You also

01:13:26.220 --> 01:13:29.060
mentioned that you like coach the youth team

01:13:29.060 --> 01:13:32.039
in Arizona. Do you find that coaching helps with

01:13:32.039 --> 01:13:35.680
your climbing lunch? I think so. Like it's fun

01:13:35.680 --> 01:13:38.659
to do something different. And I think like sometimes

01:13:38.659 --> 01:13:41.939
there's things that I don't even think about

01:13:41.939 --> 01:13:47.800
that the kids like want to know. Like I'll give

01:13:47.800 --> 01:13:49.840
beta sometimes and they're like, well, why is

01:13:49.840 --> 01:13:52.600
it that way? and then I'm like you know what

01:13:52.600 --> 01:13:55.680
I didn't even think to explain or like think

01:13:55.680 --> 01:13:58.560
about when I was doing it like why that's the

01:13:58.560 --> 01:14:00.939
way that it works but then once I explained it

01:14:00.939 --> 01:14:02.640
to them they're like oh that makes so much sense

01:14:02.640 --> 01:14:06.779
and then it's in my head like this is why this

01:14:06.779 --> 01:14:10.039
movement works and I think it's just like you

01:14:10.039 --> 01:14:13.560
just think about things more which I think can

01:14:13.560 --> 01:14:17.079
be helpful like just climbing movement because

01:14:17.079 --> 01:14:19.479
they are young like they're learning these movements

01:14:19.479 --> 01:14:22.640
for the first time And so it's like, I don't

01:14:22.640 --> 01:14:25.319
know, I've been doing a lot of the moves since

01:14:25.319 --> 01:14:27.899
I was, I don't know, five or six. So it does

01:14:27.899 --> 01:14:29.579
get to the point where like you don't even think

01:14:29.579 --> 01:14:31.640
about it like that anymore. Is like coaching

01:14:31.640 --> 01:14:34.760
something you want to do long term or is it just

01:14:34.760 --> 01:14:39.100
like you got to make some money before? I don't

01:14:39.100 --> 01:14:42.859
know. I'm not I do enjoy it. But I think I don't

01:14:42.859 --> 01:14:44.979
know, especially with like my school starting

01:14:44.979 --> 01:14:47.939
up again and the trainee schedule. It's yeah.

01:14:48.640 --> 01:14:50.979
I'm like going to be taking a step back from

01:14:50.979 --> 01:14:53.640
coaching for a little bit, I think. How do you

01:14:53.640 --> 01:14:57.960
balance school and training and I guess coaching,

01:14:58.039 --> 01:15:00.859
but not coaching anymore? I think because of

01:15:00.859 --> 01:15:03.060
the schedule we're on, it does make it a little

01:15:03.060 --> 01:15:06.739
bit easier. This semester I'm going all online,

01:15:06.939 --> 01:15:10.039
but previous semesters I was going in person.

01:15:10.979 --> 01:15:15.420
And so like classes are normally midday. So getting

01:15:15.420 --> 01:15:19.439
up early and then going. at night it like just

01:15:19.439 --> 01:15:22.039
works pretty well because it's like there's no

01:15:22.039 --> 01:15:26.000
conflict really I will say like my first semester

01:15:26.000 --> 01:15:29.199
we were getting up at like four to go to the

01:15:29.199 --> 01:15:32.260
gym yeah and I would go to the gym and then I

01:15:32.260 --> 01:15:36.159
had class from like nine to two because the school

01:15:36.159 --> 01:15:39.000
built my schedule and I had no say and it was

01:15:39.000 --> 01:15:41.239
heinous oh my god then I would go straight from

01:15:41.239 --> 01:15:43.619
school to the gym again like I was pretty I don't

01:15:43.619 --> 01:15:48.159
think that was my best self yeah but Yeah, after

01:15:48.159 --> 01:15:51.180
that semester, I definitely was like a little

01:15:51.180 --> 01:15:53.920
more intentional about the classes I was doing

01:15:53.920 --> 01:15:57.640
because like I got to pick them and like just

01:15:57.640 --> 01:15:59.979
trying to make sure I wasn't like overloading

01:15:59.979 --> 01:16:04.899
my schedule and making things as easy as I could

01:16:04.899 --> 01:16:08.100
for myself, which is why this semester I'm going

01:16:08.100 --> 01:16:10.979
all online. Yeah, that makes it a lot easier.

01:16:11.140 --> 01:16:14.079
I can't even imagine like going in the morning

01:16:14.079 --> 01:16:16.300
and then going to school and then going again

01:16:16.300 --> 01:16:18.579
and then also having like homework and stuff.

01:16:18.859 --> 01:16:21.359
Yeah, I was tired. I'm not going to lie. Like

01:16:21.359 --> 01:16:25.960
it was a long semester. But yeah, they just also

01:16:25.960 --> 01:16:28.640
I think it's hard to go in person because they

01:16:28.640 --> 01:16:31.460
do not care about your sport. They don't care.

01:16:32.020 --> 01:16:35.880
Like you have to be there every day. There was

01:16:35.880 --> 01:16:40.899
we went to. worlds in korea and i it was like

01:16:40.899 --> 01:16:44.579
a big thing because we had our lab final and

01:16:44.579 --> 01:16:47.539
the teachers would not work with me at all and

01:16:47.539 --> 01:16:49.739
i ended up having to get a letter from our federation

01:16:49.739 --> 01:16:52.760
that i could send her oh wow really yeah because

01:16:52.760 --> 01:16:55.239
they just they just don't care like if it's if

01:16:55.239 --> 01:16:58.800
it's not a sport that's through the school they

01:16:58.800 --> 01:17:02.159
won't really work with you which is tough yeah

01:17:02.159 --> 01:17:05.270
but i guess i could see that like I can understand

01:17:05.270 --> 01:17:07.550
it because I'm sure they do get a lot of excuses

01:17:07.550 --> 01:17:11.270
as to why like people aren't showing up. But

01:17:11.270 --> 01:17:15.590
it's hard, which is why I am like just because

01:17:15.590 --> 01:17:19.090
I'm competing a little more and traveling. I'm

01:17:19.090 --> 01:17:22.970
doing it online for the foreseeable future. Is

01:17:22.970 --> 01:17:26.529
it like otherwise kind of easy to manage like

01:17:26.529 --> 01:17:29.930
having to travel around? I don't know. I'm getting

01:17:29.930 --> 01:17:33.529
a biology degree. So it's like kind of hard.

01:17:34.110 --> 01:17:37.789
And yeah, if you miss one class, you come back

01:17:37.789 --> 01:17:40.810
and you're like, like, what's going on? Yeah.

01:17:40.909 --> 01:17:45.970
And so I know. So it's kind of tough. Like, I

01:17:45.970 --> 01:17:48.609
think just trying to make sure I'm not taking

01:17:48.609 --> 01:17:51.270
too many hard classes because like I do still

01:17:51.270 --> 01:17:54.789
want to do well. And so I don't know, just being

01:17:54.789 --> 01:17:58.359
a little more choosy right now. But even like

01:17:58.359 --> 01:18:01.119
last semester, there were a lot of camps in Salt

01:18:01.119 --> 01:18:03.279
Lake that I wanted to go to and I couldn't go

01:18:03.279 --> 01:18:07.039
because I had already missed so many classes.

01:18:07.930 --> 01:18:11.210
But yeah, I think it is tough to go in person

01:18:11.210 --> 01:18:15.050
and also compete and try to work around it. Well,

01:18:15.149 --> 01:18:17.470
hopefully this year it'll be a little bit easier

01:18:17.470 --> 01:18:20.590
with the online classes. Yeah, I think so. I

01:18:20.590 --> 01:18:23.689
guess outside of taking classes and then climbing,

01:18:23.770 --> 01:18:27.189
do you have time for any other hobbies or things

01:18:27.189 --> 01:18:30.229
you like to do outside of these two big things?

01:18:30.590 --> 01:18:36.680
Not a ton of time, but I don't know. I just kind

01:18:36.680 --> 01:18:38.939
of like it this way. Like I like to be busy.

01:18:38.979 --> 01:18:42.140
I like to be scheduled. Like basically every

01:18:42.140 --> 01:18:45.859
day except Friday, I know exactly what's expected

01:18:45.859 --> 01:18:48.220
of me and exactly what I'm going to do. It's

01:18:48.220 --> 01:18:51.119
like a to -do list in my brain of like these

01:18:51.119 --> 01:18:52.819
are the things that need to happen. And like

01:18:52.819 --> 01:18:55.279
I like it that way. On my rest days, I'm like,

01:18:55.319 --> 01:18:57.300
what am I going to do? Like I'm kind of bored.

01:18:58.340 --> 01:19:00.800
And like I just like going to the gym. I like

01:19:00.800 --> 01:19:05.479
climbing. So yeah, I don't. Yeah, I don't know

01:19:05.479 --> 01:19:07.840
that I would change much about like my current

01:19:07.840 --> 01:19:10.739
situation. Well, so then what do you do on your

01:19:10.739 --> 01:19:13.739
rest days? I think if I ever have appointments,

01:19:13.819 --> 01:19:18.500
they go on Fridays. So like very exciting. Yeah.

01:19:18.600 --> 01:19:23.300
So today I had needling for my neck and back.

01:19:23.560 --> 01:19:27.039
And yeah, I don't know. I like to read books

01:19:27.039 --> 01:19:30.060
and just like hang out and rest. Like really

01:19:30.060 --> 01:19:33.659
on Fridays, I do not do much. Because I am tired

01:19:33.659 --> 01:19:37.079
and like I want to prioritize like resting as

01:19:37.079 --> 01:19:39.840
much as I can. Cool. Well, I think that's all

01:19:39.840 --> 01:19:43.119
the questions I had then. Let's get into a few

01:19:43.119 --> 01:19:46.180
of the audience questions that came in. The first

01:19:46.180 --> 01:19:49.420
one was from Instagram from totally not underscore

01:19:49.420 --> 01:19:52.880
Soko. How do you deal with the pressure of cops?

01:19:53.579 --> 01:19:57.300
That's a good question. I think like I do think

01:19:57.300 --> 01:20:00.460
as you keep competing, it gets easier. Like I

01:20:00.460 --> 01:20:03.869
know that's maybe. not the answer that you want

01:20:03.869 --> 01:20:07.210
but I think like just with anything it's like

01:20:07.210 --> 01:20:09.590
the more you do something it does feel a little

01:20:09.590 --> 01:20:13.310
bit easier and even like at the youth level like

01:20:13.310 --> 01:20:16.609
you get more used to competing when I was a kid

01:20:16.609 --> 01:20:19.489
my dad would take me to like every comp there

01:20:19.489 --> 01:20:23.029
was like we would drive to California and we

01:20:23.029 --> 01:20:24.689
had a van and we would sleep in the van and then

01:20:24.689 --> 01:20:28.170
I would oh wow yeah because it just like obviously

01:20:28.170 --> 01:20:31.399
it was expensive to do it but it's It's just

01:20:31.399 --> 01:20:34.579
getting the reps in, I think. And it's like even

01:20:34.579 --> 01:20:37.520
with the World Cups, you know, climbing my first

01:20:37.520 --> 01:20:40.460
semi was really nerve wracking. Even climbing

01:20:40.460 --> 01:20:43.880
the semi in Innsbruck, like that's not often

01:20:43.880 --> 01:20:45.500
that you climb in front of that many people.

01:20:46.159 --> 01:20:48.380
So I think just like getting used to it and like

01:20:48.380 --> 01:20:50.579
you will build more confidence and you get used

01:20:50.579 --> 01:20:52.739
to the process and like it does feel a little

01:20:52.739 --> 01:20:55.960
bit less intimidating. Yeah. And I guess. I mean,

01:20:55.979 --> 01:20:59.380
I'm in San Diego right now, so I think it's like

01:20:59.380 --> 01:21:03.880
the same youth division region category. Yeah.

01:21:04.000 --> 01:21:07.260
And I feel like Arizona always seems further

01:21:07.260 --> 01:21:09.680
out than everything else around us because like

01:21:09.680 --> 01:21:11.699
L .A. is pretty close and then obviously like

01:21:11.699 --> 01:21:15.039
San Diego. And so I'm always like, I can't believe

01:21:15.039 --> 01:21:17.840
people are driving all the way from like Vegas

01:21:17.840 --> 01:21:20.680
or Arizona to come to these clubs because it's

01:21:20.680 --> 01:21:23.319
kind of far. It is kind of far, but you have

01:21:23.319 --> 01:21:26.800
to get the reps. Like I especially for the youth

01:21:26.800 --> 01:21:29.500
kids, it's like I do think it helped me a lot

01:21:29.500 --> 01:21:32.539
to get out there. And and also the kids in California

01:21:32.539 --> 01:21:36.159
are really good. So it's like it is helpful to

01:21:36.159 --> 01:21:39.800
compete against the best in the nation, which

01:21:39.800 --> 01:21:42.500
is what it was at the time. um next question

01:21:42.500 --> 01:21:46.819
this was from discord uh basically they said

01:21:46.819 --> 01:21:49.000
i saw her at u .s nationals get to the same point

01:21:49.000 --> 01:21:52.279
as brooke and lead semis so i got her on my fantasy

01:21:52.279 --> 01:21:55.140
team for the whole year um so i was just wondering

01:21:55.140 --> 01:21:59.020
have you done the fantasy climbing league at

01:21:59.020 --> 01:22:02.239
all or like do you participate i didn't even

01:22:02.239 --> 01:22:05.100
know that was a thing oh no i'm finding out for

01:22:05.100 --> 01:22:08.699
the first time how are you participating Yes,

01:22:08.739 --> 01:22:12.899
I did create a couple of fantasy teams. Oh my

01:22:12.899 --> 01:22:16.680
gosh. So. Wow. I did not know that was a thing.

01:22:17.100 --> 01:22:20.220
I feel so out of the loop. Are you interested

01:22:20.220 --> 01:22:22.920
in joining now that you're not? I don't know.

01:22:23.100 --> 01:22:26.159
Are we even allowed to join? I mean, there's

01:22:26.159 --> 01:22:28.539
no like betting. It's just like. Yeah. It's just

01:22:28.539 --> 01:22:31.760
for fun. It's just for fun. So. Yeah. I had no

01:22:31.760 --> 01:22:33.960
idea. Like I knew that was a thing for other

01:22:33.960 --> 01:22:36.579
sports. Yeah. Do a lot of people participate?

01:22:37.390 --> 01:22:39.189
I mean, I don't know what's considered a lot,

01:22:39.210 --> 01:22:41.210
but I feel like there are a lot of people. There's

01:22:41.210 --> 01:22:45.130
like maybe over a thousand in the global. Wow.

01:22:45.590 --> 01:22:48.350
Yeah. God, thank you so much for putting me on

01:22:48.350 --> 01:22:51.369
your team. Wow. I'm so honored. That's crazy.

01:22:52.050 --> 01:22:54.250
Yeah. You'll have to check it out and maybe put

01:22:54.250 --> 01:22:57.000
yourself on the team or maybe not. might put

01:22:57.000 --> 01:23:01.779
yeah yeah so the last question that i have is

01:23:01.779 --> 01:23:05.060
oh this one was also from instagram and it came

01:23:05.060 --> 01:23:07.779
from annie sanders um would you ever consider

01:23:07.779 --> 01:23:11.039
going back to schwandorf no i don't know what

01:23:11.039 --> 01:23:14.939
happened in schwandorf okay she told me that

01:23:14.939 --> 01:23:16.560
she was gonna ask a question i didn't know it

01:23:16.560 --> 01:23:20.859
was gonna be schwandorf okay what is that what

01:23:20.859 --> 01:23:24.359
happened was we were going from prague to innsbruck

01:23:24.359 --> 01:23:28.880
and And basically, like, so many people were

01:23:28.880 --> 01:23:32.079
on this train. And we got on. We were going to

01:23:32.079 --> 01:23:36.800
Munich. And, like, I want to say an hour in,

01:23:36.939 --> 01:23:38.720
they were like, okay, everyone grab your bags.

01:23:38.760 --> 01:23:41.960
We're getting off. And we were all like, what?

01:23:42.539 --> 01:23:45.920
And so we all get off. And then they put us on

01:23:45.920 --> 01:23:49.319
these buses with no AC. And they were like, it's

01:23:49.319 --> 01:23:51.539
just going to be a short journey. And so we're

01:23:51.539 --> 01:23:53.420
all like crammed on these buses with all of our

01:23:53.420 --> 01:23:55.239
bags because obviously everyone has a lot of

01:23:55.239 --> 01:23:59.020
bags. And it was so hot. I want to say it was

01:23:59.020 --> 01:24:02.220
like it felt like 120 in this bus. Like we were

01:24:02.220 --> 01:24:05.460
dying. And it ended up being like a two hour

01:24:05.460 --> 01:24:09.760
drive. Oh, gosh. And then they're like, OK, we're

01:24:09.760 --> 01:24:13.479
in Schwandorf. Everyone get off of the bus. And

01:24:13.479 --> 01:24:15.840
we're like, where are like, what is that? Like,

01:24:15.880 --> 01:24:19.659
what does that mean? And then we just stood.

01:24:20.060 --> 01:24:23.680
in schwandorf with our whole team and all these

01:24:23.680 --> 01:24:26.380
bags because we were all there for like months

01:24:26.380 --> 01:24:29.760
in europe and they were like okay just wait for

01:24:29.760 --> 01:24:32.380
the next train we waited for like 30 minutes

01:24:32.380 --> 01:24:37.260
and then a train came and yeah we got on we missed

01:24:37.260 --> 01:24:39.859
our connection to innsbruck we actually missed

01:24:39.859 --> 01:24:43.039
two connections we were supposed to get in i

01:24:43.039 --> 01:24:45.199
think at like 5 p .m it ended up being like 11

01:24:45.199 --> 01:24:49.609
p .m is a mess way past your bedtime yeah seriously

01:24:49.609 --> 01:24:52.850
like i thought i was gonna die on that bus to

01:24:52.850 --> 01:24:56.270
schwandorf it was so hot and then like halfway

01:24:56.270 --> 01:24:59.390
in the bus ride they we pulled over and like

01:24:59.390 --> 01:25:01.470
these police officers came on and were like trying

01:25:01.470 --> 01:25:03.770
to check everyone's passport and someone didn't

01:25:03.770 --> 01:25:06.069
have one and then it like created a whole problem

01:25:06.069 --> 01:25:09.729
so then we were behind the other bus yeah never

01:25:09.729 --> 01:25:12.189
going back there thanks for questioning me wow

01:25:12.189 --> 01:25:17.439
geez That's like traveling, man. Yeah. You think

01:25:17.439 --> 01:25:19.199
like, oh, it's so fun. You're like getting to

01:25:19.199 --> 01:25:21.939
go to all these places and then you're in Schwandorf.

01:25:22.220 --> 01:25:24.399
Well, so you didn't get to like see the town

01:25:24.399 --> 01:25:28.279
or anything like that? No. No, we like, yeah,

01:25:28.399 --> 01:25:33.300
we just stood at the train stop for like 45 minutes.

01:25:33.619 --> 01:25:36.340
I don't know, 30 minutes. Traveling isn't all.

01:25:36.930 --> 01:25:39.630
amazing no this makes a lot more sense because

01:25:39.630 --> 01:25:41.609
i was like looking up what is schwandorf and

01:25:41.609 --> 01:25:43.689
i looked it up briefly and i was like i don't

01:25:43.689 --> 01:25:47.750
get what this has to do with anything yeah yeah

01:25:47.750 --> 01:25:51.750
it was tough but we made it we all survived everyone

01:25:51.750 --> 01:25:55.930
had all their bags but yeah yeah there's like

01:25:55.930 --> 01:26:00.409
a picture of us all on the the bus like dying

01:26:00.409 --> 01:26:04.250
but i mean you're used to 120 because like arizona

01:26:04.729 --> 01:26:06.550
People always say that, but I don't go outside.

01:26:06.890 --> 01:26:11.010
Like, we do not spend time outside. Yeah. It

01:26:11.010 --> 01:26:14.329
is because, yeah, in Milan, it was like 98 and

01:26:14.329 --> 01:26:16.229
none of the gyms had AC and we were in these

01:26:16.229 --> 01:26:18.289
gyms every day. And people were like, you should

01:26:18.289 --> 01:26:20.630
be used to it. Like, you're from Arizona. It's

01:26:20.630 --> 01:26:22.970
like, do you know how much our ACs are cranking

01:26:22.970 --> 01:26:26.529
in Arizona? So much. Well, you go to that one

01:26:26.529 --> 01:26:30.859
gym that has no AC. Yeah, but like. Yeah, they

01:26:30.859 --> 01:26:33.640
got really good fans for us. Oh, okay. Like,

01:26:33.640 --> 01:26:38.239
industrial fans in the lead area. Yeah, they

01:26:38.239 --> 01:26:40.340
just got a new one, actually, because it's been

01:26:40.340 --> 01:26:42.840
really hot and humid because of all the rain.

01:26:43.239 --> 01:26:48.439
It's nice. So, yeah, it's like, yeah. The AC

01:26:48.439 --> 01:26:50.699
here is just too good. Like, it can't compare.

01:26:51.479 --> 01:26:53.539
So, yeah, I'm really not in the heat that much.

01:26:53.880 --> 01:26:57.140
So then when I'm in Schwandorf or the gyms in

01:26:57.140 --> 01:27:00.670
Europe, I'm like, phew. Like, it's tough. I guess

01:27:00.670 --> 01:27:03.909
in terms of like your other travel stories, do

01:27:03.909 --> 01:27:06.090
you have like a best travel moment from Europe?

01:27:06.310 --> 01:27:08.770
And like was that your worst travel moment from

01:27:08.770 --> 01:27:11.189
Europe? That was definitely my worst travel moment.

01:27:11.390 --> 01:27:14.970
I think honestly the best travel moment is when

01:27:14.970 --> 01:27:17.069
everything just works out great and you don't

01:27:17.069 --> 01:27:18.649
miss any of your flights and you're not running

01:27:18.649 --> 01:27:21.729
through the airport. Because I feel like lately

01:27:21.729 --> 01:27:24.949
it's like few and far between. When we were coming

01:27:24.949 --> 01:27:28.109
home from Chamonix, we were on the same flight,

01:27:28.210 --> 01:27:31.659
Annie and I. It was supposed to leave. I think

01:27:31.659 --> 01:27:33.399
it was supposed to leave at like 6 a .m. And

01:27:33.399 --> 01:27:37.380
there we were at noon still in Europe because

01:27:37.380 --> 01:27:39.880
everything is just I feel like lately all the

01:27:39.880 --> 01:27:42.220
flights have been delayed. So let's all cross

01:27:42.220 --> 01:27:44.239
our fingers that we make it to Coper with no

01:27:44.239 --> 01:27:48.520
delays. Do you actually like go and visit Europe

01:27:48.520 --> 01:27:50.460
when you're traveling or is it just like training

01:27:50.460 --> 01:27:55.960
and traveling? I mean, yeah, for sure. Like on

01:27:55.960 --> 01:27:58.189
rest days, we definitely like. try to get out

01:27:58.189 --> 01:28:01.250
and see things. And, like, this is our first

01:28:01.250 --> 01:28:04.130
time, or my first time in Chamonix, so it's,

01:28:04.149 --> 01:28:06.229
like, really nice to... We had a day where we,

01:28:06.270 --> 01:28:09.670
like, went all the way up to the top of whatever,

01:28:09.810 --> 01:28:12.850
and, like, we're able to tour around and see

01:28:12.850 --> 01:28:15.869
everything. Like, Europe is really pretty, and

01:28:15.869 --> 01:28:18.890
there's so much to see there, so it's pretty

01:28:18.890 --> 01:28:21.649
nice. But it seems like mostly your gripes are

01:28:21.649 --> 01:28:23.869
just with traveling and getting around. Yes,

01:28:23.869 --> 01:28:28.260
specifically the flying. It's... I mean, yeah,

01:28:28.340 --> 01:28:31.359
even last year when we went to Coper, it was

01:28:31.359 --> 01:28:35.159
like a nightmare. Like our first flight got delayed

01:28:35.159 --> 01:28:39.439
and then because of that, we missed our connection

01:28:39.439 --> 01:28:41.199
and then we weren't able to get onto another

01:28:41.199 --> 01:28:43.319
flight. So then we sat in the airport in Frankfurt

01:28:43.319 --> 01:28:47.180
for 12 hours. It's like that's kind of the vibe

01:28:47.180 --> 01:28:50.500
sometimes. Do you spend a lot of time with Annie?

01:28:50.619 --> 01:28:52.800
Do you guys train together much or it's just

01:28:52.800 --> 01:28:56.340
like you guys were both on the circuit? I wish

01:28:56.340 --> 01:28:58.760
that we could train together more. But, yeah,

01:28:58.840 --> 01:29:03.180
I don't travel too much besides the comps. But,

01:29:03.199 --> 01:29:05.920
yeah, we've known each other forever. Like, our

01:29:05.920 --> 01:29:09.659
first Youth Worlds was in Russia together. And

01:29:09.659 --> 01:29:13.100
we both made the final for lead. And, like, she

01:29:13.100 --> 01:29:15.880
ended up winning three gold medals there, which

01:29:15.880 --> 01:29:19.260
was so fun to watch. Yeah. And, yeah, I don't

01:29:19.260 --> 01:29:22.140
know. And when I was a kid, we were in the same

01:29:22.140 --> 01:29:25.649
division. so we would compete divisionals together

01:29:25.649 --> 01:29:28.609
every other year so yeah we've known each other

01:29:28.609 --> 01:29:31.770
forever and so it's super fun like to see you

01:29:31.770 --> 01:29:34.609
know how far we both come now anything that you

01:29:34.609 --> 01:29:36.970
would want to learn from her like take from her

01:29:36.970 --> 01:29:41.369
climbing oh like so much I mean obviously she's

01:29:41.369 --> 01:29:44.069
amazing and she's had a great season and just

01:29:44.069 --> 01:29:46.149
like seeing her composure and like the way she

01:29:46.149 --> 01:29:49.800
climbs and she's so confident and yeah I think

01:29:49.800 --> 01:29:51.619
like there's so much that all of us could take

01:29:51.619 --> 01:29:54.899
from her. Okay, cool. Well, I think that is all

01:29:54.899 --> 01:29:56.680
the questions I had then. Thanks for joining

01:29:56.680 --> 01:29:58.840
me today. Yeah, thank you so much for having

01:29:58.840 --> 01:30:01.520
me. Yeah, of course. Anything that you want to

01:30:01.520 --> 01:30:03.880
shout out or let people know where they can find

01:30:03.880 --> 01:30:06.060
you? I don't know. I guess just on Instagram.

01:30:07.100 --> 01:30:09.899
That's like really the only social media I post

01:30:09.899 --> 01:30:13.520
on, so. Okay, I will link that below. Any last

01:30:13.520 --> 01:30:15.399
minute words of wisdom you want to get out there?

01:30:16.000 --> 01:30:18.399
Thoughts? I don't know. Just have fun. Keep climbing.

01:30:19.020 --> 01:30:21.789
That's what it's about. Okay. Cool. Well, thank

01:30:21.789 --> 01:30:24.329
you again. And it was awesome to chat. Yeah.

01:30:24.449 --> 01:30:27.609
Thank you. Thank you for listening to this episode

01:30:27.609 --> 01:30:30.590
of the That's Not Real Climbing Podcast. If you've

01:30:30.590 --> 01:30:32.590
been enjoying the podcast, I would appreciate

01:30:32.590 --> 01:30:35.170
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01:30:35.170 --> 01:30:38.069
podcasting platform. And please leave a comment

01:30:38.069 --> 01:30:40.989
or reach out at any time if you have any thoughts.

01:30:41.149 --> 01:30:44.510
I try to read all of the messages. If you want

01:30:44.510 --> 01:30:47.529
to continue the discussion, join the free competition

01:30:47.529 --> 01:30:50.579
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01:30:50.579 --> 01:30:53.260
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01:30:53.600 --> 01:30:56.619
The link is in the description and see you next

01:30:56.619 --> 01:30:56.840
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