39: Shauna Coxsey, GB’s Legendary Boulderer

Written By Jinni Xia

So you all probably know who she is, but just in case you don’t, Shauna is a British climber, 2-time bouldering world cup season winner, Olympian, mom, and nowadays she’s still ticking off hard climbs outdoors. In this episode, we’ll learn about how not excited she was to compete in the Olympics, why she has an issue with the word “retirement,” and of course, the difficulty of managing climbing during and after pregnancy both socially and physically.

Timestamps

Timestamps of discussion topics

0:00 - Intro

1:36 - Mad Rock Shoutout!!

2:23 - Running climbing clinics

6:18 - Being the "calm" comp climber

9:16 - The nightmarish path to Tokyo Olympics

14:39 - How she started climbing + competing

17:59 - Team GB then vs now

19:52 - The evolving comp and social media game

28:54 - IFSC Athlete's Commission Goals

34:38 - DISCORD Q: Are we actually moving the needle with RED-S testing

37:39 - Personal eating disorder experience

43:35 - The issue with the word "retirement"

48:37 - DISCORD Q: How do you mentally deal with training that used to work well but now doesn't?

50:58 - The TRUTH about "having fun"

53:28 - Best comp memories

58:42 - Managing climbing while pregnant

1:07:32 - DISCORD Q: What was the most helpful postpartum training exercise?

1:12:05 - Thoughts on pulling a Jain Kim?

1:20:44 - Current goals: Outdoors and more kids??

1:25:16 - DISCORD Q: Thoughts on climbing sponsorships and Adidas sponsorship ending

1:31:36 - DISCORD Q: Do you still try to prioritize being well-rounded now that you're no longer a comp climber?

1:34:25 - DISCORD Q: Your most controversial climbing opinion?

1:37:07 - Words of wisdom + where to find Shauna

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    Because, you know, I was that kid that watched

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    climbing comps and saw thin athletes and got

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    disordered eating. Yeah, but you look at athletes'

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    faces out on the mat and tell me how often you

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    think they're having fun. Did you ever lie about

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    that? I guess it's like outdoor climbing. You

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    know, I climbed a V14 the other day and no one

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    cared at all. And I was like, OK, thanks, guys.

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    People saying they were going to call child services

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    on me and that I was going to be a bad mum and

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    I already was because I was risking my daughter's

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    life. Guys that have kids are like, are you going

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    to have another one? You bounced back so quick

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    last time and I'm like, fuck you, I did not bounce

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    back. I grinded away and I pushed so hard and

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    it wasn't easy. Welcome to another episode of

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    the That's Not Real Climbing Podcast. I'm your

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    host, Jinni, and I'm excited to introduce my

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    guest for today, Shauna Coxsey. You all probably

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    know who she is, but just in case, she's a British

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    climber, two -time bouldering World Cup season

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    winner, Olympian, mom, and nowadays she's still

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    ticking off hard climbs outdoors. In this episode,

    00:01:04.519 --> 00:01:06.799

    we'll learn about how not excited she was to

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    competing in the Olympics, why she has an issue

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    with the word retirement, and of course, the

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    difficulty of managing climbing during and after

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    pregnancy, both socially and physically. Thank

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    you so much to Mad Rock for setting up this interview

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    at their HQ. Just a reminder that you can use

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    the code NOTREALCLIMBER for 10 % off your Mad

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    Rock order. And I hope you enjoy this episode

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    with Shauna. Real quick, I'm excited to announce

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    my new sponsor helping make this podcast episode

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    possible, Mad Rock Climbing. I got fitted with

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    their brand new line of high -performance shoes,

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    the D2 .1s. They just came out December 6th,

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    but you might notice a few of your favorite gomp

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    climbers are already wearing them, like Oscar

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    Boudran from Team Canada, and also me. This is

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    the first time I've gotten to wear their shoes

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    for an extended period of time, and I'm actually

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    super impressed with the grip of their in -house

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    rubber. And of course, the famous drone heel

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    that everyone says is the cheat code to heel

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    hooking small edges. Feel free to message me

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    sizing, and you can use the discount code NOTREALCLIMBER

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    for 10 % off your entire MedRock order. Info

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    will be in the description. Back to the show.

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    But okay, how are you doing today? How are the

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    clinics? yeah they were good fun actually yeah

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    they yeah they were like a really young group

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    initially uh and then slightly older for the

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    second group but still all like youth squad team

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    kind of scenes which i didn't prepare for so

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    yeah kind of so what was different about it how

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    did that like throw a wrench in your plans um

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    it just means that the pace needs to change and

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    the So in my sessions, I really like to focus

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    on mindfulness and kind of body connection with

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    the brain and what the body's doing Whereas you

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    have to shape that very differently for young

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    people and you would for adults i think i wish

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    i could have been there i wanted to take one

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    oh they ran out of spots oh yeah they sold out

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    super quick actually i didn't even get a chance

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    to promote them yeah i'm so interested that it

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    was all like youth climbers but yeah the youth

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    climbers here are crazy yeah so i know they're

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    so realized that it's it's very scary impressive

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    it's very different to back home oh really yeah

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    yeah because like as just kind of like a more

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    recreational comp climber it's very hard to just

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    like beat any of the kids yeah and that's like

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    it's sad but my goal is to just like beat children

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    i feel like that's my goal these days yeah like

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    okay exactly they were like are you gonna try

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    the hardest climbs in the gym i was like dude,

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    I'd have to warm up for like three hours to try

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    that climb. Like, no, I'm good. I know. Like,

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    we want to watch you on it. And I was like, oh,

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    I'm sorry. Yeah. So like, of course, like the

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    people taking the clinics learn a lot from them.

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    But as the instructor, is there anything you

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    learned from like teaching these clinics? Yeah,

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    I learned so much from the athletes that come

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    in the clinics or the people that come in the

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    clinics. And I think it's, you know, I'm someone

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    that's really inspired by the people around me.

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    And I think. So much of what I learn from the

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    people on the clinics is about the mental side

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    and the approach and the inquisitive nature.

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    I love it when I get asked a question that I

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    have to stop and really think about the answer

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    to. And I think when it's a lot of young climbers...

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    what I learn mostly is about the sense of where

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    the sport's at and I've done a few different

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    things here in LA and elsewhere with younger

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    climbers and I'm realizing that so much more

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    we need to focus on the mental side of climbing

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    and the most frequently asked question I get

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    is how do I or how did I deal with nerves as

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    a professional climber or as a professional comp

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    athlete like that's still the case somewhat on

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    rock but it's so much more exposed yeah and you're

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    so it's so much more intense in in competition

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    climbing right so um yeah that's probably my

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    most frequently asked question from these clinics

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    and elsewhere too yeah you seem like one of the

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    competitors who was like better at dealing with

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    your nerves i don't remember where i heard this

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    but someone was talking about how um maybe it

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    was just like you in that room talking um about

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    how people like run out onto the maps instead

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    of like staying calm and you can just yeah yeah

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    yeah yeah so i guess you kind of give off that

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    like vibe of being more chill during comps yeah

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    and i think it's something i tried pretty hard

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    to embody is being present and being calm i perform

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    best when i'm calm and not agitated. Also like

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    running out onto the mats when it's super hot

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    especially because some climbs are at altitude

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    you know like it's kind of exhausting you're

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    either the boulder or flustered and I don't know

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    to spend an extra five seconds walking to the

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    boulder and feeling calm and controlled for me

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    made a huge difference than if I ran out there

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    but that's a personal choice yeah as everything

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    is and especially comp climbing everyone kind

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    of has or tries to weave their own version of

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    what is most conducive to a successful performance,

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    right? Yeah. So how is your like method for staying

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    calm during a comp? Staying calm? Yeah. Yeah.

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    I mean, this is the question I've been asked

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    the most. I'm very well versed in answering it.

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    Yeah. But no, I... have talked a lot about recently

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    and what I would say to anyone struggling with

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    nerves in competition is that nerves are not

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    something to be afraid of right nerves are a

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    good thing they mean you are excited to be there

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    they mean you have a lot of emotion around that

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    event there's also the fact that we can't change

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    our emotions we can't change how we feel in any

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    given moment we can't just choose to feel differently

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    so understanding that we feel nervous and figuring

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    out what that looks like is super important and

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    we can make choices to feel differently in the

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    future we can focus on our breathing or kind

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    of do mindfulness practice or whatever it might

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    be to help you change how you're feeling but

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    in that moment you can't make nerves go away

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    it's it's not possible so for me it looked like

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    owning them you know like kind of realizing that

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    a they were a good thing and b they weren't anything

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    to fear And then I'd use different breathing

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    techniques. So at times I've used box breathing,

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    you know, like four seconds in, hold for four,

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    four seconds out, hold for four, you know? So

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    I use that even still today, you know, if I'm

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    struggling to sleep or if my toddler is testing

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    my patience. So box breathing for me is something

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    that I use as a tool regularly and did so. So

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    therefore in competition, if I was feeling anxious,

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    I could use that as a tool. and then i would

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    very much use mindfulness as well so kind of

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    certain intentions of what i wanted to do in

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    that session and i'd use that to come back to

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    like where i was if i did feel nervous and then

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    i would literally force myself to smile to walk

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    out on the mat smiling those things yeah which

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    is scientifically proven to make you feel better

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    yeah so for me smiling and being present and

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    happy to be in that space, to be in the space

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    that I've worked really hard to get to, helped

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    me deal with nerves. So kind of accepting where

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    they are, trying to control my breathing and

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    my state, and then smiling. Okay, thank you.

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    Yeah, a little process. I hope it helps people.

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    Sorry, delve straight into that. Yeah, no, I

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    mean, hopefully it helps. It seems like a question

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    you get a lot. Yeah, it is. Yeah, I get it a

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    lot. And I didn't struggle with nerves at comps

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    towards the end. But the one thing I will say

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    is that you cannot train experience. Yeah. So

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    you can train comp simulations. You can do as

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    many boulders as you want or ropes or speed runs.

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    But you can't train being out in front of a crowd

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    on the mats performing. So the more you do it,

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    the easier it gets. Yeah. I mean, you said that...

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    it didn't you didn't feel as nervous anymore

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    at the end was that because maybe you like didn't

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    care as much anymore or did you still i think

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    i would say the only competition i ever went

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    into not to compete that i didn't care as much

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    would be the olympics and there's a whole story

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    behind that do you want to get in i know we can

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    yeah um and that so going into the olympic qualification

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    so the world championships in 2019 I felt pretty

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    good. But my entire team around me was fairly

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    convinced that I wasn't going to qualify at that

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    event. We didn't even talk about the fact that

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    I might qualify. It didn't feel like a possibility.

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    And I think Tokyo feels like so long ago now.

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    Because it kind of was. A little. But we just

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    didn't know where anyone sat in terms of a three

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    -discipline sport. they didn't exist previously

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    you know that three discipline element so i'd

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    done some training and my speed time wasn't incredible

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    compared to some of the other athletes i mean

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    it wasn't terrible but it wasn't great okay um

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    and we had no idea where my lead climbing was

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    at because i hadn't done many comps yeah and

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    the hardest thing to train was bouldering so

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    yeah because you went from having all your time

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    to be the best in the world or the best you could

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    be at the thing you love most And that was me

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    trying to be one of the best in the world to

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    a third of your time, trying to be better than

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    you've ever been. Yeah. Which I fell so out of

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    love with bouldering in the start of the Olympic

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    training process. It was like super heartbreaking.

    00:10:46.679 --> 00:10:48.679

    And one of the things I had to work really hard

    00:10:48.679 --> 00:10:52.899

    to get back. So, yeah, going into Hachioji World

    00:10:52.899 --> 00:10:55.179

    Championships, we had no idea. So I walked away

    00:10:55.179 --> 00:10:58.179

    from that event with a bronze medal and was like

    00:10:58.179 --> 00:11:01.220

    pretty psyched, obviously, unexpected. And was

    00:11:01.220 --> 00:11:04.299

    like, OK, the Olympics is... a year away let's

    00:11:04.299 --> 00:11:07.500

    train and push for that i picked up a couple

    00:11:07.500 --> 00:11:10.299

    of injuries but they were manageable and then

    00:11:10.299 --> 00:11:14.360

    the whole covert delay just had such a negative

    00:11:14.360 --> 00:11:18.039

    impact for me personally on my training on my

    00:11:18.039 --> 00:11:21.039

    injuries not being able to have access to physios

    00:11:21.039 --> 00:11:26.240

    and the usual routine and i'm someone who thrives

    00:11:26.240 --> 00:11:29.419

    off my environment i like to work with people

    00:11:29.419 --> 00:11:31.580

    and train with people. And then that was all

    00:11:31.580 --> 00:11:35.100

    stripped away. So as one of the older athletes

    00:11:35.100 --> 00:11:38.980

    as well that qualified, an extra year felt hard

    00:11:38.980 --> 00:11:41.360

    as opposed to exciting. And for the younger athletes,

    00:11:41.460 --> 00:11:43.139

    you know, an extra year of training was super

    00:11:43.139 --> 00:11:45.620

    significant. It was huge. How old were you at

    00:11:45.620 --> 00:11:55.720

    the time? 27? Okay. Yeah, I think. Gosh, I should

    00:11:55.720 --> 00:11:58.120

    know the answer to that. I guess if you didn't

    00:11:58.120 --> 00:12:00.440

    care about that time then no I mean I did really

    00:12:00.440 --> 00:12:02.620

    care you know going to Hachioji and then 2020

    00:12:02.620 --> 00:12:05.320

    yeah but then by the time 2021 came around it

    00:12:05.320 --> 00:12:07.799

    felt like get to the games that was the goal

    00:12:07.799 --> 00:12:10.340

    ultimately because my body was really struggling

    00:12:10.340 --> 00:12:13.559

    yeah I knew I needed surgeries I knew I needed

    00:12:13.559 --> 00:12:19.259

    kind of a lot of time away and I'd had a knee

    00:12:19.259 --> 00:12:22.639

    surgery that had an epidural that went wrong.

    00:12:22.840 --> 00:12:25.220

    So I had a, I therefore carried a back injury

    00:12:25.220 --> 00:12:27.799

    because of that. I still do. Epidural for a knee

    00:12:27.799 --> 00:12:30.480

    injury? Yeah. Whoa. Yeah. I didn't know that

    00:12:30.480 --> 00:12:32.700

    was a thing at all. It wasn't. So it was during

    00:12:32.700 --> 00:12:37.259

    COVID. The anesthetist didn't want to do general

    00:12:37.259 --> 00:12:40.679

    despite my asking for it. It's a long story,

    00:12:40.759 --> 00:12:44.440

    but yeah. So they missed my epidural space when

    00:12:44.440 --> 00:12:46.679

    they did the epidural and punctured my spinal.

    00:12:47.580 --> 00:12:51.419

    called fluid so the dura fluid leaked out um

    00:12:51.419 --> 00:12:54.639

    so yeah i had a i still have a back injury from

    00:12:54.639 --> 00:12:57.100

    that which was really aggravated by speed so

    00:12:57.100 --> 00:13:01.259

    basically in 2019 i was psyched and then mid

    00:13:01.259 --> 00:13:05.419

    2020 kind of got screwed over by a bad epidural

    00:13:05.419 --> 00:13:10.799

    yeah so 2020 olympics so in 2021 it was like

    00:13:10.799 --> 00:13:13.139

    cool let's limp to the finish line we get there

    00:13:13.139 --> 00:13:15.740

    and try and become an olympian yeah actually

    00:13:15.740 --> 00:13:19.700

    complete this chapter You didn't do bad. No,

    00:13:19.779 --> 00:13:21.840

    in hindsight, I was like, shit, I probably should

    00:13:21.840 --> 00:13:23.960

    have tried a bit harder and been more in the

    00:13:23.960 --> 00:13:25.820

    zone for this, but it was so hard and it was

    00:13:25.820 --> 00:13:27.519

    the first time in my career where I felt like

    00:13:27.519 --> 00:13:31.679

    I couldn't get into the space of fighting to

    00:13:31.679 --> 00:13:34.700

    compete. And I also knew it was my last ever

    00:13:34.700 --> 00:13:37.639

    event. I knew that it was the end of my career

    00:13:37.639 --> 00:13:45.100

    and I was ready for it, but it felt kind of drawn

    00:13:45.100 --> 00:13:48.830

    out towards the end. It was like, Yeah. Are we

    00:13:48.830 --> 00:13:50.730

    going to make it or not? Like, are we going to

    00:13:50.730 --> 00:13:52.409

    get there? And there'd been so much hype towards

    00:13:52.409 --> 00:13:54.429

    it. And I also wanted babies. I was like, I really

    00:13:54.429 --> 00:13:56.649

    want to have a baby. So the extra year for me

    00:13:56.649 --> 00:13:59.509

    was not ideal. Okay. And so that was your very

    00:13:59.509 --> 00:14:02.590

    last event. yeah okay yeah someone asked me earlier

    00:14:02.590 --> 00:14:04.529

    when did i last go on the speed route and i was

    00:14:04.529 --> 00:14:07.409

    like uh in tokyo you haven't touched it since

    00:14:07.409 --> 00:14:10.190

    no i think the speed climbers were really sad

    00:14:10.190 --> 00:14:12.570

    to hear that i don't know i mean i feel like

    00:14:12.570 --> 00:14:14.690

    they deserve their own set of medals and they

    00:14:14.690 --> 00:14:16.649

    deserve their own discipline i'm not sure speed

    00:14:16.649 --> 00:14:18.289

    climbers will be sad to hear that because they

    00:14:18.289 --> 00:14:20.470

    have their own sport you know and i respect that

    00:14:20.470 --> 00:14:24.649

    and i loved training it actually but yeah i mean

    00:14:24.649 --> 00:14:26.649

    i got pregnant not long after getting back from

    00:14:26.649 --> 00:14:29.490

    tokyo and also it's the worst thing for my back

    00:14:29.490 --> 00:14:33.320

    so yeah yeah yeah makes sense okay so we will

    00:14:33.320 --> 00:14:36.379

    get into your um i guess quitting the competition

    00:14:36.379 --> 00:14:41.279

    scene a bit in a bit um but i guess first for

    00:14:41.279 --> 00:14:42.899

    those who don't know how did you get into climbing

    00:14:42.899 --> 00:14:45.480

    and competing in the first place yeah so i started

    00:14:45.480 --> 00:14:48.720

    climbing when i was four i saw it on the tv my

    00:14:48.720 --> 00:14:53.139

    dad was a trials bike rider um so we used to

    00:14:53.139 --> 00:14:55.580

    watch like the trials riding on the adventure

    00:14:55.580 --> 00:15:00.259

    sports programs on the tv And then after one,

    00:15:00.419 --> 00:15:02.679

    climbing came on one day. And it was Catherine

    00:15:02.679 --> 00:15:05.759

    Destivelle, who is a French female climber. And

    00:15:05.759 --> 00:15:09.639

    she was soloing cliffs in Africa, in Mali. And

    00:15:09.639 --> 00:15:12.179

    I just fell in love. And I was like, Dad, that's

    00:15:12.179 --> 00:15:14.159

    what I want to do. I want to do that. I want

    00:15:14.159 --> 00:15:17.100

    to climb. We found a local gym a little while

    00:15:17.100 --> 00:15:23.539

    later. So no one in my family climbed. I've brought

    00:15:23.539 --> 00:15:25.899

    in a couple of people, some of my nephews since.

    00:15:27.919 --> 00:15:29.940

    but yeah i started at four and then started competing

    00:15:29.940 --> 00:15:32.519

    at seven just because there was a compound at

    00:15:32.519 --> 00:15:36.299

    my local gym which i did and i think i i came

    00:15:36.299 --> 00:15:37.960

    like third because there were three people in

    00:15:37.960 --> 00:15:41.179

    it oh okay yeah still counts for something yeah

    00:15:41.179 --> 00:15:44.700

    i mean i got a medal i got the medal and i qualified

    00:15:44.700 --> 00:15:46.779

    for the national final so i went to the national

    00:15:46.779 --> 00:15:49.639

    final because there were only three again um

    00:15:49.639 --> 00:15:51.759

    but yeah i went to the national final and there's

    00:15:51.759 --> 00:15:53.840

    actually footage of me climbing and i'm crying

    00:15:53.840 --> 00:15:56.759

    my eyes out i seem to hate it oh but I remember

    00:15:56.759 --> 00:15:59.720

    distinctly watching the oldest female category

    00:15:59.720 --> 00:16:02.220

    in the youth having this climb off and they were

    00:16:02.220 --> 00:16:05.299

    on this super steep wall and it was these like

    00:16:05.299 --> 00:16:07.899

    three incredible climbers all having this climb

    00:16:07.899 --> 00:16:09.759

    off one after another and I was like I want to

    00:16:09.759 --> 00:16:12.299

    do that so I've seen like the footage of me being

    00:16:12.299 --> 00:16:14.779

    upset and I kind of remember it but I remember

    00:16:14.779 --> 00:16:16.879

    way more this like climb off from these really

    00:16:16.879 --> 00:16:20.600

    strong girls and I'm pretty sure it was Leah

    00:16:20.600 --> 00:16:22.940

    Crane who is my coach that came to the games

    00:16:22.940 --> 00:16:27.559

    with me and then Hazel Finley and Katie Whittaker

    00:16:27.559 --> 00:16:30.220

    so like three kind of legends in the British

    00:16:30.220 --> 00:16:33.000

    scene for sure. Yeah and so since then were you

    00:16:33.000 --> 00:16:35.440

    more inspired by the comp scene or also just

    00:16:35.440 --> 00:16:41.039

    like outdoors? I don't think I've ever really

    00:16:41.039 --> 00:16:43.799

    been inspired by kind of the elite of the sport

    00:16:43.799 --> 00:16:47.039

    mainly because it felt quite disconnected for

    00:16:47.039 --> 00:16:51.120

    me because In terms of where I was at and what

    00:16:51.120 --> 00:16:57.820

    I was doing, there wasn't so much press around

    00:16:57.820 --> 00:17:00.440

    the competition scene in my sphere where I grew

    00:17:00.440 --> 00:17:04.619

    up climbing. And then there were so few women

    00:17:04.619 --> 00:17:08.119

    in the sport doing inspiring things at the time

    00:17:08.119 --> 00:17:11.359

    that were promoters. I'm sure there were, but

    00:17:11.359 --> 00:17:13.240

    we didn't find out about them. So I felt quite

    00:17:13.240 --> 00:17:16.000

    disconnected from the elite world of the sport.

    00:17:17.400 --> 00:17:19.119

    But I think I've always been someone who's more

    00:17:19.119 --> 00:17:21.740

    inspired by the people surrounding me doing amazing

    00:17:21.740 --> 00:17:26.759

    things. You know, like my sister worked full

    00:17:26.759 --> 00:17:29.059

    time and did a law degree part time whilst raising

    00:17:29.059 --> 00:17:31.579

    me. And I'm like, that is badass and inspiring.

    00:17:31.900 --> 00:17:35.099

    Like that is super hardcore. But as well, you

    00:17:35.099 --> 00:17:36.619

    know, you go to the climbing gym and you see

    00:17:36.619 --> 00:17:39.140

    someone send their first V3 that they've been

    00:17:39.140 --> 00:17:43.579

    working a few sessions towards. Or like someone

    00:17:43.579 --> 00:17:45.559

    getting their first pull up and they've... They're

    00:17:45.559 --> 00:17:47.740

    trying super hard and they do it. That's inspiration

    00:17:47.740 --> 00:17:49.680

    for me. That's something that I can feel and

    00:17:49.680 --> 00:17:52.900

    I appreciate. Whereas I feel quite detached.

    00:17:53.200 --> 00:17:55.380

    And I think I did as a younger person from kind

    00:17:55.380 --> 00:17:58.940

    of the elites of the world. And I guess thinking

    00:17:58.940 --> 00:18:02.700

    back, looking back on your time in Team GB when

    00:18:02.700 --> 00:18:06.140

    you were actually competing, I don't know how

    00:18:06.140 --> 00:18:08.599

    involved you are with GB anymore. I'm not involved

    00:18:08.599 --> 00:18:11.240

    at all with GB. Okay. Yeah. You might not know

    00:18:11.240 --> 00:18:13.440

    the answer for this. Okay. How do you feel like

    00:18:13.440 --> 00:18:16.470

    the team has progressed since you left? I think

    00:18:16.470 --> 00:18:19.390

    well I mean we can look in terms of numbers you

    00:18:19.390 --> 00:18:22.349

    know I was the only British athlete to go to

    00:18:22.349 --> 00:18:26.710

    Paris not Paris getting confused I was the only

    00:18:26.710 --> 00:18:30.150

    British athlete to go to Tokyo and then we had

    00:18:30.150 --> 00:18:35.569

    four Olympians in Paris so we obviously saw Toby

    00:18:35.569 --> 00:18:38.630

    take the gold and then Hamish and Erin both make

    00:18:38.630 --> 00:18:43.369

    finals and Molly was there too so to have four

    00:18:43.369 --> 00:18:46.309

    athletes Going to Paris. I think is an incredible

    00:18:46.309 --> 00:18:49.210

    achievement. I think there has been significant

    00:18:49.210 --> 00:18:51.990

    progress in terms of representation of British

    00:18:51.990 --> 00:18:55.670

    athlete in the elite so in finals and winning

    00:18:55.670 --> 00:18:59.109

    medals and being successful But I definitely

    00:18:59.109 --> 00:19:01.069

    don't think the support has improved for the

    00:19:01.069 --> 00:19:03.069

    athletes and I think it's really sad actually

    00:19:03.069 --> 00:19:06.349

    to see Where the sport is right now to see the

    00:19:06.349 --> 00:19:08.410

    success that the athletes are having and to see

    00:19:08.410 --> 00:19:12.349

    how under supported they are Yeah, and I think

    00:19:12.349 --> 00:19:17.769

    that there's been more funding come in and I'd

    00:19:17.769 --> 00:19:20.849

    love to see it go to the athletes and actually

    00:19:20.849 --> 00:19:23.609

    make a difference for them. I know there's athletes

    00:19:23.609 --> 00:19:26.009

    who qualified for the Olympics who won't even

    00:19:26.009 --> 00:19:28.150

    have all their comp registrations paid this year.

    00:19:28.569 --> 00:19:31.589

    Wow, really? Like in GB or just in general? Oh,

    00:19:31.690 --> 00:19:34.710

    wow. Yeah. Yeah, that's pretty rough. It's sad.

    00:19:34.890 --> 00:19:39.829

    It's really sad. Let alone flights or accommodation

    00:19:39.829 --> 00:19:44.799

    or funding for training. Going backwards, it's

    00:19:44.799 --> 00:19:47.819

    so unfortunate, but I don't know enough detail

    00:19:47.819 --> 00:19:50.900

    on the what. Okay. Yeah, funding is always a

    00:19:50.900 --> 00:19:52.859

    huge issue with anything in the comp scene, I

    00:19:52.859 --> 00:19:56.279

    think. I guess sort of on the lines of funding,

    00:19:56.500 --> 00:19:59.299

    you mentioned to me that you felt like you'd

    00:19:59.299 --> 00:20:01.619

    gotten really lucky with your timing as an athlete,

    00:20:01.779 --> 00:20:05.180

    growing along with social media. I guess what

    00:20:05.180 --> 00:20:08.880

    exactly do you mean by that? So my growth as

    00:20:08.880 --> 00:20:12.630

    a professional athlete... kind of coincided with

    00:20:12.630 --> 00:20:15.490

    our sport growing at a significant rate. And

    00:20:15.490 --> 00:20:18.789

    I think also coincided with social media, kind

    00:20:18.789 --> 00:20:22.029

    of the birth and growth of Instagram and that

    00:20:22.029 --> 00:20:26.730

    becoming relevant. So those three things for

    00:20:26.730 --> 00:20:29.710

    me kind of created the perfect storm in some

    00:20:29.710 --> 00:20:32.609

    ways for me to be able to build a platform and

    00:20:32.609 --> 00:20:39.240

    to work with brands and be successful. Yes, it

    00:20:39.240 --> 00:20:41.240

    was a lot of work. It didn't just happen by accident.

    00:20:41.480 --> 00:20:46.720

    I pour a lot of effort and energy into my social

    00:20:46.720 --> 00:20:50.099

    presence and how I interact with the media and

    00:20:50.099 --> 00:20:53.460

    the work that I do and everything I do outside

    00:20:53.460 --> 00:20:57.309

    of being on the wall, but I do think I was lucky.

    00:20:57.470 --> 00:21:00.230

    I do think it's a different game to play if you're

    00:21:00.230 --> 00:21:02.529

    coming into the world now, because you're stepping

    00:21:02.529 --> 00:21:05.329

    into a sport that is Olympic, that has very distinct

    00:21:05.329 --> 00:21:07.890

    pathways in place in some countries and others

    00:21:07.890 --> 00:21:13.109

    less so. You know, you can't just rock up to

    00:21:13.109 --> 00:21:15.569

    US nationals and have a go. You have to qualify

    00:21:15.569 --> 00:21:17.069

    to get there. You have to go through a whole

    00:21:17.069 --> 00:21:19.190

    process, as I've been learning from the youth

    00:21:19.190 --> 00:21:23.990

    here recently. You know, like it's a very distinct...

    00:21:24.480 --> 00:21:26.759

    drawn out process just to get to nationals let

    00:21:26.759 --> 00:21:30.599

    alone to get to internationals and then you've

    00:21:30.599 --> 00:21:33.299

    got the whole contention of social media and

    00:21:33.299 --> 00:21:37.839

    how to perform in that world you know as a professional

    00:21:37.839 --> 00:21:41.279

    athlete there's kind of two ways to make money

    00:21:41.279 --> 00:21:43.859

    and have a successful career is to be really

    00:21:43.859 --> 00:21:47.740

    good and be at the very very top or to be marketable

    00:21:47.740 --> 00:21:50.519

    and work with brands and be very good at the

    00:21:50.519 --> 00:21:52.680

    marketing side. And you can marry those worlds

    00:21:52.680 --> 00:21:56.700

    and do pretty well. You can do even better if

    00:21:56.700 --> 00:21:58.380

    you're doing that in the States. It's a whole

    00:21:58.380 --> 00:22:01.059

    different game. Oh gosh, yeah. It's very much

    00:22:01.059 --> 00:22:03.980

    different in Europe. The funding's a lot less.

    00:22:04.839 --> 00:22:10.440

    But yeah, I think now to exist in either of those

    00:22:10.440 --> 00:22:13.299

    worlds is a lot more challenging or to build

    00:22:13.299 --> 00:22:17.619

    up to having a strong presence. in the comp scene

    00:22:17.619 --> 00:22:21.279

    at the elite it's more difficult in terms of

    00:22:21.279 --> 00:22:23.500

    the process to get there let alone the actual

    00:22:23.500 --> 00:22:27.079

    them performing as it is on social media too.

    00:22:27.579 --> 00:22:29.480

    Also I just want to say in terms of like the

    00:22:29.480 --> 00:22:32.819

    US funding or I guess in terms of like I guess

    00:22:32.819 --> 00:22:35.160

    like advertising funding yeah I mean I think

    00:22:35.160 --> 00:22:37.319

    the athletes here don't get funding well I guess

    00:22:37.690 --> 00:22:40.250

    Sorry either. Yeah, but there are some countries

    00:22:40.250 --> 00:22:42.369

    that do get like funding for that. Yeah. Yeah,

    00:22:42.430 --> 00:22:44.829

    of course that that's a great point and worth

    00:22:44.829 --> 00:22:46.630

    mentioning I'm talking in terms of sponsorship

    00:22:46.630 --> 00:22:48.869

    me. Yeah on that side of thing the marketing

    00:22:48.869 --> 00:22:52.490

    side. Yeah, I think there's Generally a lot more

    00:22:52.490 --> 00:22:55.349

    budget from companies in the US than there is

    00:22:55.349 --> 00:22:59.089

    in Europe, right? In terms of marketing budget,

    00:22:59.250 --> 00:23:00.809

    but yeah, there are countries in Europe that

    00:23:00.809 --> 00:23:05.019

    are fully funded. There are countries like in

    00:23:05.019 --> 00:23:07.319

    the across the world federations that pay their

    00:23:07.319 --> 00:23:09.279

    athletes to be athletes or they might be part

    00:23:09.279 --> 00:23:11.619

    of the military in that country or the police

    00:23:11.619 --> 00:23:14.960

    um and then that will mean they get funded as

    00:23:14.960 --> 00:23:17.720

    an athlete to do that full time so there's a

    00:23:17.720 --> 00:23:19.720

    lot of different ways in which it works in different

    00:23:19.720 --> 00:23:22.220

    countries but yeah in the states i know it's

    00:23:22.220 --> 00:23:25.880

    only the very top few who are funded um and in

    00:23:25.880 --> 00:23:27.759

    the uk i don't even know if it's the top few

    00:23:27.759 --> 00:23:29.380

    anymore yeah i guess it doesn't seem like that

    00:23:29.380 --> 00:23:33.230

    um But yeah, we know how to do capitalism. That's

    00:23:33.230 --> 00:23:37.190

    the moral of the story. So do you think if you

    00:23:37.190 --> 00:23:39.109

    started as an athlete right now, you would find

    00:23:39.109 --> 00:23:41.309

    it really daunting to get into the whole like

    00:23:41.309 --> 00:23:44.930

    marketing space? It's such a hard question to

    00:23:44.930 --> 00:23:47.910

    answer because, you know, with hindsight, it's

    00:23:47.910 --> 00:23:52.930

    impossible to imagine what I might have thought.

    00:23:53.029 --> 00:23:55.529

    I think ultimately I knew exactly what I wanted

    00:23:55.529 --> 00:23:57.730

    to do. I wanted to be a professional climber

    00:23:57.730 --> 00:24:01.950

    and I knew exactly. what my goals were not how

    00:24:01.950 --> 00:24:05.069

    to achieve them and i forged a path for myself

    00:24:05.069 --> 00:24:07.730

    and i've said before that it wasn't a case of

    00:24:07.730 --> 00:24:10.029

    trying to open doors for myself we were building

    00:24:10.029 --> 00:24:12.309

    the doors to open because they just didn't exist

    00:24:12.309 --> 00:24:14.369

    you know there hadn't been a professional comp

    00:24:14.369 --> 00:24:18.829

    climber from the uk before me we'd had some success

    00:24:18.829 --> 00:24:22.049

    in comps way back and the odd odd medal here

    00:24:22.049 --> 00:24:27.130

    and there but for me my goal was to train like

    00:24:27.130 --> 00:24:30.809

    an athlete become an athlete in the climbing

    00:24:30.809 --> 00:24:35.450

    world and that felt quite new but I think I was

    00:24:35.450 --> 00:24:37.690

    very driven and really understood my goals so

    00:24:37.690 --> 00:24:40.890

    I think coming in now I think yes I'd find it

    00:24:40.890 --> 00:24:44.470

    daunting just as I did back then but I think

    00:24:44.470 --> 00:24:46.509

    I'd be quite driven to know exactly the path

    00:24:46.509 --> 00:24:48.869

    I wanted to go down but that's just because I'm

    00:24:48.869 --> 00:24:51.819

    quite a goal -driven person. Any like social

    00:24:51.819 --> 00:24:54.359

    media tips to current athletes out there? Oh

    00:24:54.359 --> 00:24:57.859

    my gosh, social media tips. That's a big question.

    00:24:58.019 --> 00:25:01.299

    You just slid that right in there. I feel like

    00:25:01.299 --> 00:25:03.480

    we could do a whole podcast on social media tips

    00:25:03.480 --> 00:25:05.819

    and I don't think I'm the right person to ask.

    00:25:05.960 --> 00:25:08.720

    I think the social media, you know, people try

    00:25:08.720 --> 00:25:10.799

    to master it and I think that that is an impossible

    00:25:10.799 --> 00:25:15.579

    task. I think ultimately if you're able to be

    00:25:15.579 --> 00:25:20.640

    yourself. that's the best way to go about things

    00:25:20.640 --> 00:25:24.880

    but I think it's almost a game you know that

    00:25:24.880 --> 00:25:27.299

    you're having to play and deciding how you want

    00:25:27.299 --> 00:25:29.900

    to play that game is really important I don't

    00:25:29.900 --> 00:25:34.420

    think that you have to like be the next influencer

    00:25:34.420 --> 00:25:36.819

    and do it a specific style I think you can be

    00:25:36.819 --> 00:25:40.740

    authentic to yourself now but posting consistently

    00:25:40.740 --> 00:25:49.200

    and trying to allow negativity to pass without

    00:25:49.200 --> 00:25:53.440

    giving you too much emotional distress because

    00:25:53.440 --> 00:25:56.640

    it's impossible to exist on social media without

    00:25:56.640 --> 00:26:01.160

    encountering negativity and i find that really

    00:26:01.160 --> 00:26:04.180

    sad and i hate that that's a part of my job and

    00:26:04.180 --> 00:26:06.400

    a part of you know younger athletes are going

    00:26:06.400 --> 00:26:09.579

    to face that too yeah but it's kind of an unfortunate

    00:26:09.579 --> 00:26:11.799

    circumstance of the world we're living in it

    00:26:11.799 --> 00:26:15.000

    feels like yeah Yeah, there's a lot of negativity

    00:26:15.000 --> 00:26:16.880

    online. I mean that kind of like drives clicks

    00:26:16.880 --> 00:26:19.559

    as well. Exactly. I guess that is kind of just

    00:26:19.559 --> 00:26:22.400

    how it works But I guess I was kind of wondering

    00:26:22.400 --> 00:26:24.940

    sort of like transitioning to the athletes commission

    00:26:24.940 --> 00:26:27.940

    thing because I guess I kind of had this thought

    00:26:27.940 --> 00:26:31.059

    that maybe I don't know if this is true, but

    00:26:31.059 --> 00:26:33.299

    as part of Athletes' Commission, maybe one thing

    00:26:33.299 --> 00:26:35.859

    that you guys work on is also come up with workshops

    00:26:35.859 --> 00:26:37.859

    for athletes so that they know how to manage

    00:26:37.859 --> 00:26:41.579

    their life after the sport. I was wondering if

    00:26:41.579 --> 00:26:43.420

    that's something you guys do. It's something

    00:26:43.420 --> 00:26:46.059

    that some national federations do, and some national

    00:26:46.059 --> 00:26:49.359

    federations do it really well. A lot of Olympic

    00:26:49.359 --> 00:26:52.960

    national Olympic committees will do it, so NOCs.

    00:26:55.920 --> 00:26:57.720

    it's really interesting because with the international

    00:26:57.720 --> 00:27:00.859

    federation it obviously sits at the top and then

    00:27:00.859 --> 00:27:02.460

    you have the national federations below that

    00:27:02.460 --> 00:27:04.240

    and then kind of the athletes come through the

    00:27:04.240 --> 00:27:07.079

    national federations so understanding where responsibility

    00:27:07.079 --> 00:27:10.819

    lies is often quite confusing and i do think

    00:27:10.819 --> 00:27:12.740

    it's something well it is something that's come

    00:27:12.740 --> 00:27:15.400

    up at the athlete commission and some of the

    00:27:15.400 --> 00:27:18.819

    commission members have wanted to run sessions

    00:27:18.819 --> 00:27:23.019

    on marketing and strategies and yeah life after

    00:27:23.019 --> 00:27:27.119

    what comes after pro -athlete life. There are

    00:27:27.119 --> 00:27:31.319

    a few systems in place within the IFSC to help

    00:27:31.319 --> 00:27:34.299

    educate on judging and route setting and whatnot

    00:27:34.299 --> 00:27:37.619

    so there's the balls starting to roll there and

    00:27:37.619 --> 00:27:39.460

    I think it is definitely something that national

    00:27:39.460 --> 00:27:42.859

    federations need to do more as well because obviously

    00:27:42.859 --> 00:27:46.980

    it's relevant to where you are in the world as

    00:27:46.980 --> 00:27:49.339

    well and culturally what that looks like it will

    00:27:49.339 --> 00:27:53.400

    be different at times but I would love to see

    00:27:53.400 --> 00:27:56.880

    more. professional athletes involved, not just

    00:27:56.880 --> 00:27:59.480

    in the coaching side, which I think is a really

    00:27:59.480 --> 00:28:02.619

    natural fit for most people to say, oh, that

    00:28:02.619 --> 00:28:04.960

    makes sense to bring athletes through into coaching.

    00:28:05.039 --> 00:28:07.420

    Although we don't see it as much as I would expect

    00:28:07.420 --> 00:28:12.019

    or would hope. Different skill sets, kind of.

    00:28:12.059 --> 00:28:14.819

    Yeah, they are. But I do think that there's an

    00:28:14.819 --> 00:28:18.599

    element of having someone on your team as a national

    00:28:18.599 --> 00:28:21.140

    federation that's been there and done it is invaluable.

    00:28:22.209 --> 00:28:25.210

    As much as you're a coach, I do not think you

    00:28:25.210 --> 00:28:27.769

    need to be a professional climber or have been

    00:28:27.769 --> 00:28:30.789

    to the Olympics to be a good coach. But I'm just

    00:28:30.789 --> 00:28:32.910

    saying the experience of having been out on those

    00:28:32.910 --> 00:28:36.970

    mats is invaluable. You can't say you know what

    00:28:36.970 --> 00:28:38.730

    that feels like or you know how to coach that

    00:28:38.730 --> 00:28:41.470

    environment entirely without the experience,

    00:28:41.670 --> 00:28:43.650

    I don't think, and without that shared experience.

    00:28:44.210 --> 00:28:47.920

    I think what we learn... And what athletes learn

    00:28:47.920 --> 00:28:50.799

    on that mat is very useful for coaches to absorb

    00:28:50.799 --> 00:28:53.599

    as well. It's not a one -way relationship. I

    00:28:53.599 --> 00:28:55.339

    think that coaches can learn a lot from athletes

    00:28:55.339 --> 00:29:00.039

    too. So my main task as the chair of the athlete

    00:29:00.039 --> 00:29:02.700

    commission has been to have an athlete representative

    00:29:02.700 --> 00:29:05.420

    sit on every single commission within the IFSC.

    00:29:06.160 --> 00:29:09.000

    Because what I found when I came on board initially

    00:29:09.000 --> 00:29:14.549

    was there would be a topic. or a question around

    00:29:14.549 --> 00:29:17.869

    something that was changing and all this work

    00:29:17.869 --> 00:29:19.650

    would be done and then the athlete commission

    00:29:19.650 --> 00:29:21.910

    would be told that it was happening and often

    00:29:21.910 --> 00:29:27.130

    have some questions or some discourse and then

    00:29:27.130 --> 00:29:28.450

    it would be like well it's too late all this

    00:29:28.450 --> 00:29:30.750

    work's been done this is what's happening we're

    00:29:30.750 --> 00:29:32.789

    just letting you know or like yeah we can take

    00:29:32.789 --> 00:29:34.670

    that on board a little bit maybe we can change

    00:29:34.670 --> 00:29:38.670

    it um so i want the athletes to be involved in

    00:29:38.670 --> 00:29:41.609

    those conversations from the very start and to

    00:29:41.609 --> 00:29:44.839

    have input and constantly remind everyone around

    00:29:44.839 --> 00:29:48.000

    that the sport only exists if the athletes are

    00:29:48.000 --> 00:29:49.819

    performing on the stage, you know, like that

    00:29:49.819 --> 00:29:52.819

    is what the sport is. So yeah, that's been my

    00:29:52.819 --> 00:29:55.859

    main push and my main focus is to get that voice

    00:29:55.859 --> 00:29:59.480

    within every commission. But I think it'd be

    00:29:59.480 --> 00:30:02.940

    so cool to have athletes sat on the board, not

    00:30:02.940 --> 00:30:05.279

    as athlete representative, as president, vice

    00:30:05.279 --> 00:30:08.480

    president. like continent representatives yeah

    00:30:08.480 --> 00:30:11.619

    to have more voices in those spaces so yeah the

    00:30:11.619 --> 00:30:14.319

    kind of career element really comes into play

    00:30:14.319 --> 00:30:17.000

    there yeah and backtracking real quick for anyone

    00:30:17.000 --> 00:30:19.339

    who's like not super familiar with athletes commission

    00:30:19.339 --> 00:30:21.539

    does um can you give like a brief overview of

    00:30:21.539 --> 00:30:24.599

    that and i guess also like what are some of like

    00:30:24.599 --> 00:30:27.000

    the main top of mind issues right now that you

    00:30:27.000 --> 00:30:29.579

    guys are tackling so the international federation

    00:30:29.579 --> 00:30:34.160

    of sport climbing is the body for all of sport

    00:30:34.160 --> 00:30:40.119

    climbing and that sits as its own entity and

    00:30:40.119 --> 00:30:44.339

    then the national federations are kind of part

    00:30:44.339 --> 00:30:48.839

    of the international federation so The International

    00:30:48.839 --> 00:30:52.299

    Federation has an athlete commission where two

    00:30:52.299 --> 00:30:54.259

    members of that commission, so the chair and

    00:30:54.259 --> 00:30:57.279

    vice chair, sit on the executive board. So that's

    00:30:57.279 --> 00:31:01.220

    two of 11 spots, which we have full voting rights

    00:31:01.220 --> 00:31:05.420

    as well, I will say. So although I think climbing

    00:31:05.420 --> 00:31:09.039

    has a lot of improvements to make still, I really

    00:31:09.039 --> 00:31:12.000

    am proud of the fact that our federation has

    00:31:12.000 --> 00:31:15.019

    two athletes with voting rights. on the executive

    00:31:15.019 --> 00:31:17.880

    board that's not very common in sport at all

    00:31:17.880 --> 00:31:20.180

    so we have gender equality on that as well so

    00:31:20.180 --> 00:31:22.420

    it's one male and one female and the athlete

    00:31:22.420 --> 00:31:25.039

    commission is responsible for being the voice

    00:31:25.039 --> 00:31:27.180

    between the international federation and the

    00:31:27.180 --> 00:31:30.200

    athletes and there's a lot of work that's done

    00:31:30.200 --> 00:31:34.359

    on every single sphere that you can imagine in

    00:31:34.359 --> 00:31:37.680

    terms of topics that have been most relevant

    00:31:37.680 --> 00:31:41.480

    i think the one that comes up most frequently

    00:31:41.480 --> 00:31:44.680

    and the one that is we're incredibly passionate

    00:31:44.680 --> 00:31:46.640

    about as a commission and as a sport is athlete

    00:31:46.640 --> 00:31:50.420

    health and well -being um so there's a lot of

    00:31:50.420 --> 00:31:54.480

    work been done on red s testing and climbing

    00:31:54.480 --> 00:31:56.980

    is actually the first sport to bring in any form

    00:31:56.980 --> 00:32:00.779

    of red s testing yeah it's it's really interesting

    00:32:00.779 --> 00:32:03.460

    other sports have tried and this is the first

    00:32:03.460 --> 00:32:07.240

    any any red s testing but actually has a repercussion

    00:32:07.240 --> 00:32:11.819

    sorry so wow in a certain circumstance an athlete

    00:32:11.819 --> 00:32:15.500

    could be removed from competition yeah um that's

    00:32:15.500 --> 00:32:17.279

    a whole other topic but again we could probably

    00:32:17.279 --> 00:32:20.019

    do an entire podcast on to explain but there's

    00:32:20.019 --> 00:32:22.960

    been a lot of push and voice from the athletes

    00:32:22.960 --> 00:32:26.460

    um to get this to where it is and yes it's not

    00:32:26.460 --> 00:32:30.220

    perfect and it is in a phase where it's coming

    00:32:30.220 --> 00:32:33.079

    into the sport and there's a lot more work to

    00:32:33.079 --> 00:32:35.940

    be done but I'd say that was kind of the topic

    00:32:35.940 --> 00:32:38.660

    that's reoccurring and then there's a lot of

    00:32:38.660 --> 00:32:40.880

    discussion on route setting always of course

    00:32:40.880 --> 00:32:45.500

    and calendars and a big huge one has been the

    00:32:45.500 --> 00:32:48.359

    Olympics the disciplines and the medals that

    00:32:48.359 --> 00:32:51.279

    we'll have so we'll find out in April what the

    00:32:51.279 --> 00:32:54.559

    number of medals is and how many athletes and

    00:32:54.559 --> 00:32:57.400

    then also the Paralympics too so the athlete

    00:32:57.400 --> 00:33:01.819

    commission have been really supportive of the

    00:33:01.819 --> 00:33:04.640

    paralympic kind of climbing bid but that has

    00:33:04.640 --> 00:33:08.859

    all been solely the para climbing committee who

    00:33:08.859 --> 00:33:11.359

    fronted that work and the athlete representatives

    00:33:11.359 --> 00:33:14.960

    on the para climbing committee there um so yeah

    00:33:14.960 --> 00:33:20.000

    they work tirelessly to make the bid for the

    00:33:20.000 --> 00:33:23.539

    la paralympics which we'll find out in december

    00:33:23.539 --> 00:33:26.400

    if that's accepted so we're definitely in it's

    00:33:26.400 --> 00:33:30.140

    just how it will look so how many how many classifications

    00:33:30.140 --> 00:33:32.220

    are not trying to scare you there they are in

    00:33:32.220 --> 00:33:34.079

    it's the classifications and how that's all going

    00:33:34.079 --> 00:33:37.099

    to look and what numbers so they've worked super

    00:33:37.099 --> 00:33:40.259

    hard on that and then we're trying to make it

    00:33:40.259 --> 00:33:42.940

    as cohesive as possible and figure out the best

    00:33:42.940 --> 00:33:46.339

    way for the para climbing committee to work best

    00:33:46.339 --> 00:33:48.519

    with the athlete commission to feed back to the

    00:33:48.519 --> 00:33:51.599

    executive board but yeah i'd say our biggest

    00:33:51.599 --> 00:33:53.960

    challenge is always communicating with the athletes

    00:33:53.960 --> 00:33:58.839

    so one of my big Goals aside from getting athletes

    00:33:58.839 --> 00:34:01.599

    on every commission is to have every National

    00:34:01.599 --> 00:34:04.500

    Federation have an athlete representative In

    00:34:04.500 --> 00:34:07.980

    an ideal world you'd have every National Federation

    00:34:07.980 --> 00:34:10.239

    have an athlete on their board Which doesn't

    00:34:10.239 --> 00:34:13.219

    seem like a big ask if the International Federation

    00:34:13.219 --> 00:34:17.840

    has to yeah But some of our federations are covering

    00:34:17.840 --> 00:34:20.239

    multiple different sports. So snow sports or

    00:34:20.239 --> 00:34:25.889

    mountaineering Outdoor climbing. Yeah So yeah,

    00:34:25.929 --> 00:34:28.369

    even getting one athlete name, like a representative,

    00:34:28.570 --> 00:34:31.309

    is tricky at times. Okay, makes sense. Yeah,

    00:34:31.369 --> 00:34:33.550

    there's a lot of spinning plates. Yeah, there

    00:34:33.550 --> 00:34:35.809

    was a lot of, I guess, issues you had mentioned

    00:34:35.809 --> 00:34:38.909

    as well in terms of like, yeah, like Red S2.

    00:34:39.469 --> 00:34:41.510

    One of the audience questions that had come in

    00:34:41.510 --> 00:34:43.489

    was, does it feel like you're actually moving

    00:34:43.489 --> 00:34:46.750

    the needle with this? Or is it like more so just

    00:34:46.750 --> 00:34:48.949

    like a lot of frustration or like deadlocks?

    00:34:49.750 --> 00:34:52.769

    No, it does feel like, I mean, there's change

    00:34:52.769 --> 00:34:58.369

    that has happened, right? It is moving. My question

    00:34:58.369 --> 00:35:01.429

    that I posed publicly and to the International

    00:35:01.429 --> 00:35:03.730

    Federation, to the Medical Commission, is that

    00:35:03.730 --> 00:35:08.289

    if we're saying we're testing and we're looking

    00:35:08.289 --> 00:35:11.429

    at whether or not athletes are healthy or not,

    00:35:11.530 --> 00:35:14.429

    and we are saying our testing has come in, it

    00:35:14.429 --> 00:35:16.929

    works well, are we saying everyone that goes

    00:35:16.929 --> 00:35:19.449

    out and competes is healthy and that is the image

    00:35:19.449 --> 00:35:21.949

    we are happy to portray for our sport, or are

    00:35:21.949 --> 00:35:25.599

    we saying our testing doesn't work? because right

    00:35:25.599 --> 00:35:28.639

    now it's the former so we're saying we're testing

    00:35:28.639 --> 00:35:32.719

    and this works and this is great but there's

    00:35:32.719 --> 00:35:34.300

    obviously a reason we've brought this testing

    00:35:34.300 --> 00:35:38.440

    in so my fear is that we could be causing more

    00:35:38.440 --> 00:35:41.199

    damage by saying everyone's healthy everyone's

    00:35:41.199 --> 00:35:44.039

    fine when it might not look that way to the outside

    00:35:44.039 --> 00:35:50.010

    community but ultimately the testing they can

    00:35:50.010 --> 00:35:52.030

    only pull someone out of competition if they

    00:35:52.030 --> 00:35:54.349

    are at risk in that very moment when they do

    00:35:54.349 --> 00:35:58.429

    that test and I think it's like a fatal risk

    00:35:58.429 --> 00:36:01.530

    in that in that moment so there's a lot of nuance

    00:36:01.530 --> 00:36:04.730

    to the way the testing works and I think there's

    00:36:04.730 --> 00:36:08.090

    a lot better communication that needs to happen

    00:36:08.090 --> 00:36:11.590

    so that we can all understand what the testing

    00:36:11.590 --> 00:36:14.440

    is and how it works. Because, you know, I was

    00:36:14.440 --> 00:36:16.519

    that kid that watched climbing comps and saw

    00:36:16.519 --> 00:36:19.280

    thin athletes and got disordered eating because

    00:36:19.280 --> 00:36:21.760

    of watching comp athletes. Like I was literally

    00:36:21.760 --> 00:36:24.380

    that kid. So it's not. I didn't know about that

    00:36:24.380 --> 00:36:27.139

    part. Oh, yeah. I haven't talked about it much

    00:36:27.139 --> 00:36:29.980

    publicly. And I think I will at some point. But

    00:36:29.980 --> 00:36:33.059

    it's been very relevant in these topics, in this

    00:36:33.059 --> 00:36:37.539

    topic, because when we talk about protecting

    00:36:37.539 --> 00:36:39.699

    the athletes and the well -being of the athletes

    00:36:39.699 --> 00:36:42.659

    that are on that platform, on that stage, that's.

    00:36:43.269 --> 00:36:45.929

    so important and that's why this work is being

    00:36:45.929 --> 00:36:48.789

    done but it stems so much further than that it

    00:36:48.789 --> 00:36:52.349

    stems to the little kid watching or every single

    00:36:52.349 --> 00:36:54.909

    individual that's watching you know we're inspiring

    00:36:54.909 --> 00:36:57.730

    not just a generation but an entire community

    00:36:57.730 --> 00:37:02.050

    of climbers all around the world so yeah i think

    00:37:02.050 --> 00:37:05.710

    that we are making steps and the medical commission

    00:37:05.710 --> 00:37:09.389

    has had some changes recently and I think that

    00:37:09.389 --> 00:37:12.210

    there's some incredibly passionate caring individuals

    00:37:12.210 --> 00:37:17.030

    that are working so hard and I just hope it keeps

    00:37:17.030 --> 00:37:19.110

    improving because I think there's always going

    00:37:19.110 --> 00:37:21.269

    to be teething pains right when things come in

    00:37:21.269 --> 00:37:24.989

    and it's new so yeah my role is up in September

    00:37:24.989 --> 00:37:29.789

    for the international Federation athlete chair

    00:37:29.789 --> 00:37:33.550

    role. So hand the reins over to the next person

    00:37:33.550 --> 00:37:35.550

    to continue this workout. You're not going to

    00:37:35.550 --> 00:37:37.389

    do it again? No, I'm not going to do it again.

    00:37:37.530 --> 00:37:41.130

    No, I feel ready to pass that baton. Okay. And

    00:37:41.130 --> 00:37:43.809

    I guess going back to, I mean, when you were

    00:37:43.809 --> 00:37:46.250

    saying that you also kind of went into that eating

    00:37:46.250 --> 00:37:49.269

    disorder route, if you're comfortable. Yeah,

    00:37:49.269 --> 00:37:52.789

    it's fine. Did you, were you like aware that

    00:37:52.789 --> 00:37:56.239

    that was, I guess, happening? Because I think

    00:37:56.239 --> 00:37:58.639

    some people don't even realize that they're like...

    00:37:58.639 --> 00:38:01.760

    Yeah, no, I looked at who was... So when I was

    00:38:01.760 --> 00:38:03.739

    a teenager and I wanted to be a pro climber,

    00:38:03.800 --> 00:38:05.719

    I looked at who was at the top. They looked a

    00:38:05.719 --> 00:38:08.460

    certain way and that's what I thought was needed

    00:38:08.460 --> 00:38:10.800

    to be successful. Like I would print pictures

    00:38:10.800 --> 00:38:14.860

    out of skinny climbers and stick them on my mirror

    00:38:14.860 --> 00:38:16.380

    to be like, right, I don't want to eat. And I

    00:38:16.380 --> 00:38:18.519

    would try hard not to eat. Like I was very aware

    00:38:18.519 --> 00:38:20.800

    of what I was doing. And then I broke my leg

    00:38:20.800 --> 00:38:23.739

    because my bone density was low. Wow. So I was...

    00:38:25.400 --> 00:38:27.440

    significantly damaging my health at this point.

    00:38:27.559 --> 00:38:29.320

    And then I started working with a coach and a

    00:38:29.320 --> 00:38:32.119

    nutritionist and they helped me build back up.

    00:38:32.460 --> 00:38:35.000

    Yeah, so I think if I hadn't have been lucky

    00:38:35.000 --> 00:38:39.340

    enough to break my leg, the irony, then I could

    00:38:39.340 --> 00:38:42.179

    have gone down like a damaging path. And I had

    00:38:42.179 --> 00:38:46.039

    struggles with disordered eating over like having

    00:38:46.039 --> 00:38:48.179

    an eating disorder. I don't think I actually

    00:38:48.179 --> 00:38:53.369

    was, I don't think I was unlucky. sorry i think

    00:38:53.369 --> 00:38:56.230

    i was lucky to meet the right people at the right

    00:38:56.230 --> 00:38:59.289

    time to pull me out of it and not go too far

    00:38:59.289 --> 00:39:01.690

    um but it's something that i still struggle with

    00:39:01.690 --> 00:39:03.550

    today like i still have to be very conscious

    00:39:03.550 --> 00:39:05.869

    about it and i still have kind of trauma from

    00:39:05.869 --> 00:39:11.670

    that and that is because of what image our sport

    00:39:11.670 --> 00:39:14.769

    was promoting at that time yeah and i guess i've

    00:39:14.769 --> 00:39:17.650

    heard stories that even like amongst athletes

    00:39:17.650 --> 00:39:19.650

    it would just be like a normal thing to talk

    00:39:19.650 --> 00:39:23.519

    about like how little you're eating and Did you

    00:39:23.519 --> 00:39:25.139

    feel like that was the case for you at the time?

    00:39:25.280 --> 00:39:27.780

    Yeah, for sure. We are in a power to weight sport.

    00:39:28.079 --> 00:39:30.639

    And I think that weight isn't a topic we're going

    00:39:30.639 --> 00:39:32.920

    to get away from. So it's the narrative around

    00:39:32.920 --> 00:39:35.139

    that. And I think we need to shift the narrative

    00:39:35.139 --> 00:39:38.900

    from weight to health. And I think even still

    00:39:38.900 --> 00:39:41.769

    now, you know, like... If I speak to athletes,

    00:39:41.869 --> 00:39:44.710

    there's pride in saying how light you are. Really?

    00:39:45.170 --> 00:39:50.789

    Yeah, it's hard. But also there's a lot of fear

    00:39:50.789 --> 00:39:53.610

    around saying your weight if you find it too

    00:39:53.610 --> 00:39:57.650

    heavy. And I was one of the heavier climbers

    00:39:57.650 --> 00:40:00.050

    on the World Cup circuit, and my husband's a

    00:40:00.050 --> 00:40:05.989

    heavier climber, you know? So we're very familiar

    00:40:05.989 --> 00:40:09.690

    with... becoming comfortable with that but even

    00:40:09.690 --> 00:40:11.289

    the fact that I'm sat here saying we're heavier

    00:40:11.289 --> 00:40:13.269

    climbers you know that's kind of part of the

    00:40:13.269 --> 00:40:15.989

    damaging narrative that that's creating because

    00:40:15.989 --> 00:40:18.610

    we're not super heavy people right but we are

    00:40:18.610 --> 00:40:23.090

    in like the pro climber scene um and I don't

    00:40:23.090 --> 00:40:25.969

    know how we get away from that narrative because

    00:40:25.969 --> 00:40:30.690

    of being in a power to weight sport but I do

    00:40:31.550 --> 00:40:35.369

    wish for a healthier world that our sport exists

    00:40:35.369 --> 00:40:39.710

    in. Yeah, it's kind of scary, I think. Well,

    00:40:39.809 --> 00:40:42.329

    I would say like from an outsider's perspective,

    00:40:42.550 --> 00:40:45.210

    like someone who's not involved in the elite

    00:40:45.210 --> 00:40:50.739

    parts of climbing, I don't... Like I feel like

    00:40:50.739 --> 00:40:52.739

    the narrative is kind of changing. It does feel

    00:40:52.739 --> 00:40:55.000

    like that. Shifting. Hearing about it on social

    00:40:55.000 --> 00:40:57.360

    media and stuff. People are kind of more aware

    00:40:57.360 --> 00:40:59.639

    about what they're saying. Careful about what

    00:40:59.639 --> 00:41:02.440

    they're saying in terms of like weight. So I

    00:41:02.440 --> 00:41:05.139

    think it's okay. Yeah. No, I think it's good.

    00:41:05.260 --> 00:41:07.800

    And I remember being stood on a World Cup podium

    00:41:07.800 --> 00:41:12.079

    and it was me, Miho and Yanya. And we all had.

    00:41:12.440 --> 00:41:16.400

    biceps. We were all like stacked. And I looked

    00:41:16.400 --> 00:41:19.420

    at those girls and I was like, this is the healthiest

    00:41:19.420 --> 00:41:22.739

    podium I've seen in a World Cup in terms of the

    00:41:22.739 --> 00:41:25.559

    image presented to the outside world. And I'm

    00:41:25.559 --> 00:41:27.679

    not saying anyone who looks skinny isn't healthy,

    00:41:27.800 --> 00:41:29.920

    not by any means. We don't know anyone's backstory.

    00:41:30.300 --> 00:41:33.239

    We don't know what their natural body form is.

    00:41:34.280 --> 00:41:37.079

    We can sit back and question everything and it's

    00:41:37.079 --> 00:41:38.900

    easy just like, you know, the keyboard warriors

    00:41:38.900 --> 00:41:41.679

    who love to comment on Yeah, especially women's

    00:41:41.679 --> 00:41:46.000

    weight, you know, I find that hard but yeah,

    00:41:46.079 --> 00:41:49.159

    I I'm also guilty of it because when I saw it

    00:41:49.159 --> 00:41:51.300

    was me Miho and Janja and I was like this is

    00:41:51.300 --> 00:41:53.139

    inspiring This is cool. Like all those little

    00:41:53.139 --> 00:41:55.300

    girls that are in the front row of this competition

    00:41:55.300 --> 00:41:59.840

    see three healthy looking athletes like that

    00:42:00.409 --> 00:42:02.809

    for me was a really cool moment in the sport

    00:42:02.809 --> 00:42:05.710

    especially where I'd come from and what I'd seen

    00:42:05.710 --> 00:42:08.769

    in my time in like the pro comp circuit to be

    00:42:08.769 --> 00:42:11.429

    like ah this is changing like this is impressive

    00:42:11.429 --> 00:42:16.030

    yeah um but yeah I hope that continues to kind

    00:42:16.030 --> 00:42:19.289

    of get better in the future yeah yeah and I I

    00:42:19.289 --> 00:42:22.429

    definitely um I think I resonate with what you're

    00:42:22.429 --> 00:42:24.489

    saying about just like the keyboard warriors

    00:42:24.489 --> 00:42:28.119

    too oh gosh It's just, yeah, it's not great to

    00:42:28.119 --> 00:42:31.860

    comment on anyone, even if you're, like, concerned.

    00:42:32.139 --> 00:42:35.019

    Because people, I don't know, naturally settle

    00:42:35.019 --> 00:42:36.780

    at any kind of weight. So you don't necessarily

    00:42:36.780 --> 00:42:39.420

    know just from looking if they're healthy or

    00:42:39.420 --> 00:42:42.500

    not. Yeah. So, yeah, that can be pretty damaging

    00:42:42.500 --> 00:42:45.940

    as well. Yeah. I mean, there's a whole host of

    00:42:45.940 --> 00:42:49.199

    nuance to the testing that goes on as well. So

    00:42:49.199 --> 00:42:53.900

    I think although it can... kind of looked like

    00:42:53.900 --> 00:42:56.400

    the international federation saying everyone's

    00:42:56.400 --> 00:42:58.840

    healthy if they're competing that's not actually

    00:42:58.840 --> 00:43:02.099

    the case necessarily because there will if an

    00:43:02.099 --> 00:43:04.500

    athlete shows up in a certain zone then the national

    00:43:04.500 --> 00:43:08.480

    federation will be notified and then ultimately

    00:43:08.480 --> 00:43:11.000

    the responsibility for the athlete's well -being

    00:43:11.000 --> 00:43:13.500

    falls to the national federation but that's not

    00:43:13.500 --> 00:43:16.300

    to say that isn't happening we just aren't privy

    00:43:16.300 --> 00:43:19.300

    to that information okay like as the public so

    00:43:20.079 --> 00:43:23.119

    yeah there could be athletes who are under concern

    00:43:23.119 --> 00:43:25.360

    but you won't find that information out and you

    00:43:25.360 --> 00:43:28.000

    shouldn't right like that is that private yeah

    00:43:28.000 --> 00:43:30.710

    exactly yeah Okay. Well, thank you for sharing

    00:43:30.710 --> 00:43:33.389

    your story. I know that can be like kind of difficult

    00:43:33.389 --> 00:43:36.449

    sometimes. That's okay. So switching gears here

    00:43:36.449 --> 00:43:39.409

    a bit into, I guess, dare I say the word retirement?

    00:43:39.929 --> 00:43:42.269

    Yeah, we've talked about this. Please excuse

    00:43:42.269 --> 00:43:44.489

    this brief intermission, but if you're interested

    00:43:44.489 --> 00:43:46.510

    in deleted scenes from this episode where we

    00:43:46.510 --> 00:43:48.590

    talk about her experience commentating at the

    00:43:48.590 --> 00:43:51.670

    Paris Olympics and strengthening her climbing

    00:43:51.670 --> 00:43:54.769

    through pelvic floor exercises, do consider helping

    00:43:54.769 --> 00:43:57.389

    support this podcast on Patreon. Some of the

    00:43:57.389 --> 00:43:59.320

    perks include a membership. a pin shipped to

    00:43:59.320 --> 00:44:01.739

    you after two months, prioritize guest questions

    00:44:01.739 --> 00:44:04.559

    or the ability to submit video questions, and

    00:44:04.559 --> 00:44:07.440

    more to come. The proceeds go back into the podcast,

    00:44:07.619 --> 00:44:09.599

    help me break even, and they help me improve

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    the experience of the guests. If you'd like to

    00:44:12.300 --> 00:44:14.940

    help out non -monetarily, liking, commenting,

    00:44:15.039 --> 00:44:17.539

    and sharing helps a great deal as well. Back

    00:44:17.539 --> 00:44:19.800

    to the show. Yeah, what is it like transitioning

    00:44:19.800 --> 00:44:22.159

    from comp climbing to rock? And I guess what's

    00:44:22.159 --> 00:44:25.000

    your issue with retirement? Yeah, I just, the

    00:44:25.000 --> 00:44:28.460

    word retirement. saying I retired is my biggest

    00:44:28.460 --> 00:44:31.820

    regret in my career and that's not to say you

    00:44:31.820 --> 00:44:34.099

    shouldn't use it it's just because I said I retired

    00:44:34.099 --> 00:44:36.000

    so then everyone assumed I was done with climbing

    00:44:36.000 --> 00:44:38.340

    I wasn't going to be elite and then because I

    00:44:38.340 --> 00:44:40.559

    had a baby during that time too I was literally

    00:44:40.559 --> 00:44:42.719

    like written off as an elite climber in a lot

    00:44:42.719 --> 00:44:46.380

    of spheres I think or especially outside of the

    00:44:46.380 --> 00:44:50.659

    climbing community and because when was coming

    00:44:50.659 --> 00:44:52.920

    back from having my baby and wanting to transition

    00:44:52.920 --> 00:44:54.780

    to becoming a rock climber there was a lot of

    00:44:54.780 --> 00:44:56.800

    change going on so I was kind of battling a lot

    00:44:56.800 --> 00:44:59.860

    of other things and I think people genuinely

    00:44:59.860 --> 00:45:02.860

    assumed I was like done with climbing outside

    00:45:02.860 --> 00:45:07.119

    of the sport and that's I think partly because

    00:45:07.119 --> 00:45:11.000

    we've become Olympic so in a lot of traditional

    00:45:11.000 --> 00:45:13.860

    Olympic sports your sport is your job you retire

    00:45:13.860 --> 00:45:16.920

    and then you never do that again. Really? In

    00:45:16.920 --> 00:45:18.880

    a lot of sports, yeah, as I've learned. You know,

    00:45:18.920 --> 00:45:21.900

    like, if you think... I know Jess Ennis, who's

    00:45:21.900 --> 00:45:26.239

    a heptathlete. She's an Olympian, a British Olympian,

    00:45:26.239 --> 00:45:28.860

    won multiple medals. She doesn't go and do the

    00:45:28.860 --> 00:45:33.199

    heptathlon every weekend, right? And... I mean,

    00:45:33.219 --> 00:45:35.500

    that's a bit different. It's like a conglomeration.

    00:45:35.659 --> 00:45:39.460

    It is. So I was chatting to a track cyclist when

    00:45:39.460 --> 00:45:42.420

    I was in Paris. I was on the studio show for

    00:45:42.420 --> 00:45:45.559

    Eurosport. And we were sat chatting. We had the

    00:45:45.559 --> 00:45:47.239

    Eiffel Tower twinkling in the background. We

    00:45:47.239 --> 00:45:49.519

    were all glammed up. And she was like, so what

    00:45:49.519 --> 00:45:51.400

    do you do now? Is this what you do? Commentating.

    00:45:51.400 --> 00:45:53.500

    And I was like, no, no, I'm a pro climber. She

    00:45:53.500 --> 00:45:54.940

    was like, yeah, you used to be, but what do you

    00:45:54.940 --> 00:45:57.000

    do now? And I was like, no, I'm a professional

    00:45:57.000 --> 00:45:58.480

    rock climber. And she was like, sorry, what?

    00:45:59.139 --> 00:46:02.340

    I was like. What do you mean what? And she was

    00:46:02.340 --> 00:46:06.280

    like, how does that work? I climb rocks. And

    00:46:06.280 --> 00:46:07.679

    honestly, when I said it out loud, I was like,

    00:46:07.739 --> 00:46:10.280

    yeah, how does that work? I climb rocks. Sounds

    00:46:10.280 --> 00:46:13.719

    very strange. But she couldn't fathom that I

    00:46:13.719 --> 00:46:16.579

    could continue my professional career within

    00:46:16.579 --> 00:46:20.960

    the sport outside of competition. She genuinely

    00:46:20.960 --> 00:46:23.400

    couldn't grasp it. The more I explained it, the

    00:46:23.400 --> 00:46:27.059

    less sense it made to her. And she's a professional.

    00:46:27.920 --> 00:46:30.739

    ex -professional athlete too, you know? So I've

    00:46:30.739 --> 00:46:33.300

    come across that kind of resistance quite a lot

    00:46:33.300 --> 00:46:38.079

    in that world outside of the sport. So that's

    00:46:38.079 --> 00:46:41.500

    my issue with the word retirement. Transition

    00:46:41.500 --> 00:46:44.619

    is a great word from compathlete to rock climber

    00:46:44.619 --> 00:46:48.920

    with the hiatus of having a baby. But yeah, it

    00:46:48.920 --> 00:46:53.550

    feels like a different sport. any like difficulties

    00:46:53.550 --> 00:46:56.489

    there going from yeah i had a baby okay yeah

    00:46:56.489 --> 00:47:00.550

    that's true yeah yeah i think um it's i get asked

    00:47:00.550 --> 00:47:03.510

    a lot like how different is comp climbing to

    00:47:03.510 --> 00:47:05.349

    rock climbing and what the transition was like

    00:47:05.349 --> 00:47:09.170

    um but because i had pregnancy postpartum recovery

    00:47:09.170 --> 00:47:13.150

    yeah in the middle of that phase and i did that

    00:47:13.150 --> 00:47:15.840

    kind of during the olympic dip that everybody

    00:47:15.840 --> 00:47:18.539

    goes through and especially with tokyo because

    00:47:18.539 --> 00:47:21.280

    it was climbing's first time everyone was a first

    00:47:21.280 --> 00:47:26.179

    -time olympian no one was ready for the circus

    00:47:26.179 --> 00:47:31.239

    and wildness that comes with going to the games

    00:47:31.239 --> 00:47:36.360

    um i think everyone struggled literally everyone

    00:47:36.360 --> 00:47:38.929

    i know that went to Tokyo and I spoke to afterwards

    00:47:38.929 --> 00:47:41.690

    struggled whether they were there as a coach

    00:47:41.690 --> 00:47:45.110

    or a physio or if they won gold or came 20th,

    00:47:45.130 --> 00:47:47.250

    you know, like everyone had some sort of dip

    00:47:47.250 --> 00:47:50.949

    after. Just like the crash from... Yeah, it's

    00:47:50.949 --> 00:47:55.489

    so intense and the build -up with then the delay.

    00:47:56.299 --> 00:47:59.199

    And the whole surrounding of, will it happen?

    00:47:59.340 --> 00:48:01.280

    Won't it happen? Will you test positive for COVID

    00:48:01.280 --> 00:48:03.599

    and not get to go? Or won't you? You know, you

    00:48:03.599 --> 00:48:05.460

    sat in the airport when you got there and did

    00:48:05.460 --> 00:48:07.119

    this COVID test. You just sat in a conference

    00:48:07.119 --> 00:48:09.480

    room with a mask on, waiting for someone to come

    00:48:09.480 --> 00:48:11.219

    and give you a little positive or negative card.

    00:48:11.320 --> 00:48:12.739

    It's like, are you going to get turned around

    00:48:12.739 --> 00:48:16.880

    on the flight? Go straight home? This seems like

    00:48:16.880 --> 00:48:20.719

    some weird sci -fi movie now. Yeah. I think it

    00:48:20.719 --> 00:48:24.760

    was in the past, kind of. Yeah. So for me, going

    00:48:24.760 --> 00:48:27.489

    from... literally the olympics it's a pregnancy

    00:48:27.489 --> 00:48:31.130

    to then climbing outdoors feels like maybe it's

    00:48:31.130 --> 00:48:35.449

    not the usual transition phase there um i guess

    00:48:35.449 --> 00:48:38.449

    maybe this one will be a bit more relevant than

    00:48:38.449 --> 00:48:41.010

    um one of the audience questions how do you deal

    00:48:41.010 --> 00:48:43.389

    mentally with things that used to work well climbing

    00:48:43.389 --> 00:48:45.849

    training and performance wise but now or are

    00:48:45.849 --> 00:48:48.090

    not or at least in the past temporarily we're

    00:48:48.090 --> 00:48:51.110

    not um either because of getting older or having

    00:48:51.110 --> 00:48:54.170

    less time because of family or yeah maybe um

    00:48:56.140 --> 00:49:02.699

    I have let go of my expectation of my pre -partum

    00:49:02.699 --> 00:49:08.260

    self. So I have a lot of postpartum PBs, I call

    00:49:08.260 --> 00:49:14.800

    them, like a PPPB. So I think for me, I've just

    00:49:14.800 --> 00:49:19.079

    had to accept my new body and a new way of training.

    00:49:20.519 --> 00:49:22.940

    You know, I went from the most intense cycle.

    00:49:23.500 --> 00:49:30.440

    of my entire life to growing a human birthing

    00:49:30.440 --> 00:49:33.420

    a human and recovering from that and now I have

    00:49:33.420 --> 00:49:36.960

    a lot less time so it's just wildly different

    00:49:36.960 --> 00:49:40.900

    it doesn't feel like I have any expectation lingering

    00:49:40.900 --> 00:49:45.980

    anymore from who I was in terms of physicality

    00:49:46.750 --> 00:49:50.769

    before I had a baby but also I guess because

    00:49:50.769 --> 00:49:53.889

    I wasn't just training for bouldering it doesn't

    00:49:53.889 --> 00:49:56.530

    feel as relevant so because I was training speed

    00:49:56.530 --> 00:49:59.250

    climbing and rope climbing and bouldering a little

    00:49:59.250 --> 00:50:02.809

    bit now I can just train bouldering and focus

    00:50:02.809 --> 00:50:07.530

    solely on that and the actual specifics of training

    00:50:07.530 --> 00:50:10.489

    for rock climbing are so minimal compared to

    00:50:10.489 --> 00:50:13.289

    training for just comp bouldering alone let alone

    00:50:13.289 --> 00:50:17.360

    all three disciplines So yeah, I'd say I've just

    00:50:17.360 --> 00:50:19.639

    let go of the expectation that I had before and

    00:50:19.639 --> 00:50:23.039

    I have new goals that are specific to who I am

    00:50:23.039 --> 00:50:26.099

    and what I want to achieve now. And I've allowed

    00:50:26.099 --> 00:50:29.840

    myself to shift into this new expectation and

    00:50:29.840 --> 00:50:33.179

    be content with that. When I say allowed, I've

    00:50:33.179 --> 00:50:35.400

    had a lot of support to help me get to that stage

    00:50:35.400 --> 00:50:39.019

    because it's not been easy, especially because

    00:50:39.019 --> 00:50:41.219

    we have two boards in our basement and I have

    00:50:41.219 --> 00:50:45.239

    climbs that I could do. pre -Frankie. Well, one

    00:50:45.239 --> 00:50:47.059

    of them we reset, which was the best thing we

    00:50:47.059 --> 00:50:49.199

    could have done. But the right board we kept

    00:50:49.199 --> 00:50:52.739

    has been the same for 13 years, I think. So,

    00:50:52.780 --> 00:50:54.619

    you know, I'm like, oh, I used to be able to

    00:50:54.619 --> 00:50:57.320

    do that. Yeah. And I've just managed to let go

    00:50:57.320 --> 00:51:00.099

    of that. Yeah. Yeah. We set in the left board

    00:51:00.099 --> 00:51:02.800

    was good, though. OK. Yeah. It seems like letting

    00:51:02.800 --> 00:51:05.599

    go of expectations is like a big thing within

    00:51:05.599 --> 00:51:07.820

    comps in general. Like I hear a lot of athletes

    00:51:07.820 --> 00:51:10.980

    say that. they go into a comp with no expectations

    00:51:10.980 --> 00:51:12.840

    and that's when they do that. I don't know if

    00:51:12.840 --> 00:51:14.780

    I believe that they mean that though. Oh, really?

    00:51:15.019 --> 00:51:17.320

    Yeah, I wonder. I feel like I've said that and

    00:51:17.320 --> 00:51:19.380

    I've not actually meant it. I've thought that

    00:51:19.380 --> 00:51:22.139

    I meant it. Why are you there if you don't have

    00:51:22.139 --> 00:51:24.460

    expectations? Well, along the lines of that,

    00:51:24.539 --> 00:51:26.820

    a lot of people say, oh, I'm just here to have

    00:51:26.820 --> 00:51:29.559

    fun. Yeah, but you look at athletes' faces out

    00:51:29.559 --> 00:51:31.519

    on the mat and tell me how often you think they're

    00:51:31.519 --> 00:51:34.489

    having fun. Did you ever lie about that? I don't

    00:51:34.489 --> 00:51:36.530

    think I actually said that I was there to have

    00:51:36.530 --> 00:51:39.110

    fun. Maybe I did lie about that. If I said that,

    00:51:39.210 --> 00:51:41.309

    then I was lying. It's like type two fun though,

    00:51:41.409 --> 00:51:42.989

    you know? Like in it, you're not really having

    00:51:42.989 --> 00:51:47.469

    fun. Unless it goes well. Yeah. Yeah, you know?

    00:51:47.550 --> 00:51:49.489

    People always say it. Oh, like I was just there

    00:51:49.489 --> 00:51:51.889

    to have fun and then they won. And it's like,

    00:51:51.949 --> 00:51:54.369

    well, did you win because... Would you have said

    00:51:54.369 --> 00:51:57.010

    that if you were like just missed out on finals

    00:51:57.010 --> 00:51:59.730

    by slipping up matching the last hole? That wouldn't

    00:51:59.730 --> 00:52:02.590

    be so fun, right? I don't know. I do think that...

    00:52:02.960 --> 00:52:05.699

    People say things because it's almost like the

    00:52:05.699 --> 00:52:08.219

    right thing to say especially like I'm just there

    00:52:08.219 --> 00:52:11.719

    to have fun I question that a lot or like I enjoy

    00:52:11.719 --> 00:52:14.119

    it I'm like, do you actually enjoy that? Like

    00:52:14.119 --> 00:52:16.280

    I'm not sure how much of being out on the mats

    00:52:16.280 --> 00:52:18.780

    and it not going well I enjoyed yes when it was

    00:52:18.780 --> 00:52:20.940

    going great and I was like flashing boulders

    00:52:20.940 --> 00:52:24.840

    and it feels wonderful But even that adds a new

    00:52:24.840 --> 00:52:27.420

    layer of pressure and I don't know I think as

    00:52:27.420 --> 00:52:32.900

    well athletes who gain some success that just

    00:52:32.900 --> 00:52:36.320

    piles that pressure on even more you know winning

    00:52:36.320 --> 00:52:38.820

    my first world cup was incredible but it was

    00:52:38.820 --> 00:52:42.059

    also like bittersweet because then suddenly it's

    00:52:42.059 --> 00:52:44.960

    like oh the only way from here is to maintain

    00:52:44.960 --> 00:52:47.440

    yeah otherwise it's disappointment like when

    00:52:47.440 --> 00:52:49.480

    I won my first world cup and people like flitted

    00:52:49.480 --> 00:52:51.460

    in to congratulate me and I got all these messages

    00:52:51.460 --> 00:52:54.639

    and flowers and people were super psyched and

    00:52:54.639 --> 00:52:57.719

    then by like a few if I came second at the next

    00:52:57.719 --> 00:53:00.699

    comp people like oh yeah like whatever you know

    00:53:00.699 --> 00:53:02.320

    like no one cares anymore and then winning a

    00:53:02.320 --> 00:53:05.179

    few more suddenly it's only i guess it's like

    00:53:05.179 --> 00:53:07.179

    outdoor climbing you know i climbed a v14 the

    00:53:07.179 --> 00:53:09.440

    other day and no one cared at all and i was like

    00:53:09.440 --> 00:53:13.269

    okay Thanks, guys. Oh, I'm impressed. A few V14s

    00:53:13.269 --> 00:53:15.889

    ago, everyone cared. I got my flowers, but never

    00:53:15.889 --> 00:53:18.489

    mind, not anymore. I'm impressed. Congrats on

    00:53:18.489 --> 00:53:21.150

    the V14. I appreciate that. But yeah, I guess

    00:53:21.150 --> 00:53:23.929

    it's relative, isn't it? Yeah. I mean, thanks

    00:53:23.929 --> 00:53:25.789

    for the honesty there, because I've always wondered.

    00:53:26.150 --> 00:53:28.889

    So then I guess looking back on your time in

    00:53:28.889 --> 00:53:32.420

    the comm circuit, does any... like do you miss

    00:53:32.420 --> 00:53:35.139

    anything about it or like not miss anything about

    00:53:35.139 --> 00:53:37.659

    it and do you remember anything or do you like

    00:53:37.659 --> 00:53:39.760

    remember any amazing moments where you didn't

    00:53:39.760 --> 00:53:42.840

    win yeah i have so many amazing moments where

    00:53:42.840 --> 00:53:47.219

    i didn't win um because for me i wanted to go

    00:53:47.219 --> 00:53:50.239

    out and give my very best performance and i genuinely

    00:53:51.389 --> 00:53:53.949

    If someone else did better and I walk, so what

    00:53:53.949 --> 00:53:56.010

    I would do is I'd walk off the mats and I'd try

    00:53:56.010 --> 00:53:59.590

    really hard to analyze whether I was happy with

    00:53:59.590 --> 00:54:02.369

    my performance and satisfied. And if I was, then

    00:54:02.369 --> 00:54:04.250

    I'd try really hard not to be disappointed if

    00:54:04.250 --> 00:54:07.030

    I didn't win the gold medal, which didn't always

    00:54:07.030 --> 00:54:09.269

    work. And yeah, there were tears and yeah, it

    00:54:09.269 --> 00:54:12.809

    was hard. But that's what I always really tried

    00:54:12.809 --> 00:54:16.049

    to do. I never wanted to go out and be. Miho

    00:54:16.049 --> 00:54:18.570

    like I wasn't there to beat the person I wouldn't

    00:54:18.570 --> 00:54:22.670

    ever have wanted them to fall off For me to get

    00:54:22.670 --> 00:54:24.809

    gold, you know, like I wasn't there willing someone

    00:54:24.809 --> 00:54:26.730

    to fall I was like, I want you to give your best

    00:54:26.730 --> 00:54:28.590

    performance like I want to beat you on your best

    00:54:28.590 --> 00:54:33.070

    day Not you have a bad day so I can win. I don't

    00:54:33.070 --> 00:54:37.530

    know that was always where I wanted to be and

    00:54:37.530 --> 00:54:39.349

    some of my like fondest memories are competing

    00:54:39.349 --> 00:54:41.630

    with Janya is she was coming through and super

    00:54:41.630 --> 00:54:43.610

    young and this little kid that was like fiery

    00:54:43.610 --> 00:54:46.309

    and you could see she was going to be the best

    00:54:46.309 --> 00:54:49.730

    like we've ever seen you could tell that pretty

    00:54:49.730 --> 00:54:53.070

    early on so to have a couple years where I could

    00:54:53.070 --> 00:54:55.670

    beat her a little bit was quite fun but it was

    00:54:55.670 --> 00:54:57.969

    like very clear it was Janya's era that was coming

    00:54:57.969 --> 00:55:01.130

    and I was like waiting for it and we all knew

    00:55:01.130 --> 00:55:05.670

    but there's some really fond memories of competing

    00:55:05.670 --> 00:55:09.710

    with her but also competing alongside Anna Storr

    00:55:09.710 --> 00:55:12.710

    who was a total legend of the sport who came

    00:55:12.710 --> 00:55:16.570

    kind of before me and I started competing towards

    00:55:16.570 --> 00:55:19.650

    the end of her career and then obviously Akio

    00:55:19.650 --> 00:55:22.230

    Noguchi who competed throughout my entire career

    00:55:22.230 --> 00:55:26.889

    so seeing them win world cup seeing my peers

    00:55:26.889 --> 00:55:31.440

    my friends win a deserved victory I probably

    00:55:31.440 --> 00:55:34.719

    meant as much to me as my gold medals. I think

    00:55:34.719 --> 00:55:37.119

    there was a time where there were five of us

    00:55:37.119 --> 00:55:39.679

    that would always make every single World Cup

    00:55:39.679 --> 00:55:44.219

    final. It was so fun in terms of being there

    00:55:44.219 --> 00:55:46.079

    with your friends and actually fun. You know,

    00:55:46.119 --> 00:55:48.460

    you're like, oh, like we're good friends. Being

    00:55:48.460 --> 00:55:51.039

    out on the mats may be not fun always because

    00:55:51.039 --> 00:55:52.920

    some of the times it would go your way, some

    00:55:52.920 --> 00:55:57.239

    of it wouldn't. But that was a really cool experience

    00:55:57.239 --> 00:56:00.829

    to live. and be an athlete during that time and

    00:56:00.829 --> 00:56:05.469

    to have those relationships and to be part of

    00:56:05.469 --> 00:56:07.250

    something that felt really important for the

    00:56:07.250 --> 00:56:09.449

    sports progression like we were all pushing each

    00:56:09.449 --> 00:56:11.170

    other yeah and there were five of us and then

    00:56:11.170 --> 00:56:13.150

    we'd see like oh who's going to come into finals

    00:56:13.150 --> 00:56:15.030

    this time like who's going to be the number six

    00:56:15.030 --> 00:56:17.969

    and then to create a space that felt welcoming

    00:56:18.880 --> 00:56:21.860

    And bring people in. And I remember really distinctly

    00:56:21.860 --> 00:56:25.519

    my first World Cup final. An athlete called Mina

    00:56:25.519 --> 00:56:27.980

    Markovic came up to me in ISO and was like, hey,

    00:56:28.019 --> 00:56:30.440

    welcome to finals. What do you need? Do you know

    00:56:30.440 --> 00:56:31.880

    what you're doing? Do you understand what's going

    00:56:31.880 --> 00:56:33.579

    to happen? We're all going to go up here and

    00:56:33.579 --> 00:56:34.900

    warm up. Then we're going to do this. Then they're

    00:56:34.900 --> 00:56:36.219

    going to come take us. They'll take us quite

    00:56:36.219 --> 00:56:39.239

    early. So make sure that you have everything

    00:56:39.239 --> 00:56:41.139

    you need. And like talked me through the whole

    00:56:41.139 --> 00:56:44.900

    thing. And I was so nervous. And she just made

    00:56:44.900 --> 00:56:47.460

    it feel like a space that was so comfortable.

    00:56:48.320 --> 00:56:50.280

    And I wanted to try and give that to athletes

    00:56:50.280 --> 00:56:53.159

    that came through into the sport. And I remember

    00:56:53.159 --> 00:56:56.059

    Oceana McKenzie's first World Cup final and like

    00:56:56.059 --> 00:56:58.260

    what it meant to her and to her country for her

    00:56:58.260 --> 00:57:01.019

    to be in that final was so cool to be part of.

    00:57:01.800 --> 00:57:04.639

    Yeah, I have a lot of fond memories there. In

    00:57:04.639 --> 00:57:07.219

    fact, I... I don't remember many of my World

    00:57:07.219 --> 00:57:09.719

    Cup wins thinking about it. I remember those

    00:57:09.719 --> 00:57:12.000

    moments way more than... I'm trying to actually

    00:57:12.000 --> 00:57:15.219

    pull into my brain a World Cup win. Oh, I did

    00:57:15.219 --> 00:57:17.739

    one full flash final in Munich that was cool.

    00:57:18.159 --> 00:57:20.639

    Finals? Yeah, I flashed all four in finals. That

    00:57:20.639 --> 00:57:22.719

    was cool. But I don't really remember any others.

    00:57:23.019 --> 00:57:24.840

    Okay. I'll have to take a look. Yeah, and there's

    00:57:24.840 --> 00:57:29.000

    like 11 of them. Yeah. Okay. Well then, conversely,

    00:57:29.039 --> 00:57:35.440

    what do you not miss about competing? It's funny

    00:57:35.440 --> 00:57:39.960

    because there's not a lot that I'm like, oh.

    00:57:40.639 --> 00:57:43.019

    That's good. Yeah, I don't know. I loved what

    00:57:43.019 --> 00:57:45.159

    I did. I found it hard to travel and be away

    00:57:45.159 --> 00:57:48.300

    from my other half so much. But also I knew that

    00:57:48.300 --> 00:57:51.659

    it was temporary. But my career was, I knew I

    00:57:51.659 --> 00:57:54.420

    wanted a baby at some point. And I didn't want

    00:57:54.420 --> 00:57:56.320

    to come back to comp climbing after having a

    00:57:56.320 --> 00:57:58.960

    baby. I don't miss the politics. Okay. Yeah,

    00:57:59.000 --> 00:58:01.920

    I really don't miss the... As an athlete? Yeah.

    00:58:02.059 --> 00:58:05.300

    Huh. Yeah. So the National Federation politics,

    00:58:05.539 --> 00:58:09.820

    I do not miss that. I don't envy athletes having

    00:58:09.820 --> 00:58:14.460

    to navigate selection. And I think it's so hard

    00:58:14.460 --> 00:58:18.659

    as an athlete to be able to be honest and to

    00:58:18.659 --> 00:58:24.519

    have an opinion that you can speak out loud because

    00:58:24.519 --> 00:58:26.980

    we're in the position where some selections are

    00:58:26.980 --> 00:58:32.869

    subjective, where you can't. kind of your career

    00:58:32.869 --> 00:58:34.429

    is so short right you don't want to jeopardize

    00:58:34.429 --> 00:58:37.170

    your opportunity to get to perform on the biggest

    00:58:37.170 --> 00:58:40.730

    of stages so yeah i don't envy athletes navigating

    00:58:40.730 --> 00:58:43.730

    the politics at all right now yeah yeah that's

    00:58:43.730 --> 00:58:46.559

    always of course And then you also mentioned,

    00:58:46.619 --> 00:58:49.460

    again, wanting to have a baby and wanting to

    00:58:49.460 --> 00:58:52.300

    do that. So I guess we can kind of transition

    00:58:52.300 --> 00:58:54.300

    into that portion. I'm not trying to bring that

    00:58:54.300 --> 00:58:56.699

    up all the time. I mean, it's a very literally

    00:58:56.699 --> 00:58:59.760

    the biggest problem. Yeah. And it's a very important

    00:58:59.760 --> 00:59:03.420

    part of your life. And you also like climbed

    00:59:03.420 --> 00:59:06.199

    throughout your pregnancy. How did you manage

    00:59:06.199 --> 00:59:08.400

    that? Like, was it ever scary for you, especially

    00:59:08.400 --> 00:59:10.460

    like kind of being in the public eye and doing

    00:59:10.460 --> 00:59:13.460

    it? It was never scary for me climbing while

    00:59:13.460 --> 00:59:16.199

    pregnant. It felt very natural. I always knew

    00:59:16.199 --> 00:59:19.400

    I would climb as long as it felt good. I climbed

    00:59:19.400 --> 00:59:21.980

    until the day before Frankie was born. I was

    00:59:21.980 --> 00:59:25.079

    climbing at 7pm on the Sunday and she was born

    00:59:25.079 --> 00:59:27.860

    at 7am on the next Monday morning. I was talking

    00:59:27.860 --> 00:59:30.300

    about this earlier actually because... a few

    00:59:30.300 --> 00:59:32.519

    of the mums at the clinic I ran were asking me

    00:59:32.519 --> 00:59:35.380

    a few questions. Yeah, I remember climbing on

    00:59:35.380 --> 00:59:37.400

    this slab and I tried to do a cross through with

    00:59:37.400 --> 00:59:39.519

    my foot and I couldn't get my foot through. And

    00:59:39.519 --> 00:59:41.480

    I'd done this climb already and I was like, why

    00:59:41.480 --> 00:59:44.019

    can't I get my foot through? So my husband was

    00:59:44.019 --> 00:59:45.920

    like, I guess you need to match feet. And I was

    00:59:45.920 --> 00:59:47.820

    like, no, I could do this a few days ago. But

    00:59:47.820 --> 00:59:50.539

    yeah, it was quite literally Frankie's head in

    00:59:50.539 --> 00:59:53.260

    the way. It's like, oh, OK, you were ready to

    00:59:53.260 --> 00:59:56.579

    come out. And I did the sideways dyno. I jumped

    00:59:56.579 --> 00:59:58.159

    across and I was like, oh, that felt different.

    00:59:58.260 --> 01:00:02.889

    Yeah. But no, for me, climbing felt super safe

    01:00:02.889 --> 01:00:05.849

    and really comfortable because it's something

    01:00:05.849 --> 01:00:07.769

    I know so well. It felt safer than walking down

    01:00:07.769 --> 01:00:11.030

    the street. And it was because I was in control,

    01:00:11.170 --> 01:00:14.650

    not the other people driving, right? The thing

    01:00:14.650 --> 01:00:17.250

    that was totally wild was the internet's reaction

    01:00:17.250 --> 01:00:19.329

    to me climbing. Yeah, that's what I'm wondering.

    01:00:19.889 --> 01:00:22.969

    Yeah, so navigating that was challenging for

    01:00:22.969 --> 01:00:26.269

    me and my manager and my whole team. It was very

    01:00:26.269 --> 01:00:33.920

    intense. I don't think that I regret sharing

    01:00:33.920 --> 01:00:36.780

    or climbing at all. I think it's really important

    01:00:36.780 --> 01:00:40.099

    for people to understand that it's a woman's

    01:00:40.099 --> 01:00:43.880

    choice to do what she wants with her body when

    01:00:43.880 --> 01:00:46.340

    she's pregnant and that her risk assessment will

    01:00:46.340 --> 01:00:48.980

    be relative to her. The thing I struggled most

    01:00:48.980 --> 01:00:54.000

    with wasn't the hate. I know the internet's...

    01:00:54.280 --> 01:00:57.360

    a negative place at times I know people write

    01:00:57.360 --> 01:01:00.659

    things and yeah I try my very best to never bite

    01:01:00.659 --> 01:01:03.179

    I think I bit once during my pregnancy there's

    01:01:03.179 --> 01:01:05.599

    one time I replied to a comment I was like ah

    01:01:05.599 --> 01:01:07.860

    I just don't remember no I don't actually I was

    01:01:07.860 --> 01:01:09.460

    trying to remember what that was I'm sure I could

    01:01:09.460 --> 01:01:13.460

    find it But I had so many people rush into my

    01:01:13.460 --> 01:01:16.219

    defense, which was wonderful. But it was mostly

    01:01:16.219 --> 01:01:19.039

    the narrative of she's a professional athlete,

    01:01:19.159 --> 01:01:21.519

    back off. She's an Olympian, back off. She's

    01:01:21.519 --> 01:01:24.159

    won World Cup medals, back off. And I was like,

    01:01:24.199 --> 01:01:26.739

    no, any woman who chooses to climb during her

    01:01:26.739 --> 01:01:29.139

    pregnancy, that is okay. It doesn't matter if

    01:01:29.139 --> 01:01:30.980

    she's a V3 climber. It doesn't matter if she's

    01:01:30.980 --> 01:01:34.579

    a V0 climber or a V14 climber. It doesn't matter.

    01:01:34.739 --> 01:01:36.679

    They're choosing to climb while they're pregnant.

    01:01:36.920 --> 01:01:39.360

    They're choosing to ride their bike while they're

    01:01:39.360 --> 01:01:43.150

    pregnant. do whatever it is that feels right

    01:01:43.150 --> 01:01:47.030

    to them, that is okay. So actually it was the

    01:01:47.030 --> 01:01:50.289

    defense narrative that I was trying to help shift

    01:01:50.289 --> 01:01:55.429

    as opposed to the negativity. But I still today

    01:01:55.429 --> 01:01:59.530

    get weekly, sometimes daily messages from women

    01:01:59.530 --> 01:02:04.210

    who are pregnant or postpartum who were inspired

    01:02:04.210 --> 01:02:08.820

    to keep climbing during pregnancy or... And often

    01:02:08.820 --> 01:02:10.639

    it's not because they didn't feel like they could,

    01:02:10.739 --> 01:02:12.500

    it's because they were struggling with the narrative

    01:02:12.500 --> 01:02:15.820

    that was surrounding it and the negativity. And

    01:02:15.820 --> 01:02:18.239

    I never once had anyone come up to me in person

    01:02:18.239 --> 01:02:20.559

    and say anything, and I wish they did, because

    01:02:20.559 --> 01:02:22.320

    I would genuinely love to have that conversation.

    01:02:22.880 --> 01:02:26.719

    Not to kind of bite at them, just to be super

    01:02:26.719 --> 01:02:29.400

    curious as to why they think that's a risk. Wow,

    01:02:29.559 --> 01:02:32.510

    yeah, I got some really bad comments. Yeah. Like

    01:02:32.510 --> 01:02:35.690

    people saying they were going to call child services

    01:02:35.690 --> 01:02:38.630

    on me and that I was going to be a bad mom and

    01:02:38.630 --> 01:02:41.050

    I already was because I was risking my daughter's

    01:02:41.050 --> 01:02:44.030

    life and I didn't deserve to be a mom because

    01:02:44.030 --> 01:02:46.329

    I was doing these risky things. I was like, wow,

    01:02:46.449 --> 01:02:49.010

    your perception of risk is interesting. You think

    01:02:49.010 --> 01:02:52.869

    that me climbing a V5 when I'm pregnant is risky,

    01:02:52.989 --> 01:02:56.230

    but okay. Yeah. Interesting. Did you like go

    01:02:56.230 --> 01:02:58.190

    back and forth with your team? Like they were

    01:02:58.190 --> 01:03:00.489

    suggesting that you didn't post about it or was

    01:03:00.489 --> 01:03:05.050

    that? No, my team, I don't have a huge team surrounding

    01:03:05.050 --> 01:03:07.369

    me in terms of like that side of things for the

    01:03:07.369 --> 01:03:10.610

    Olympics. I had an amazing team of support physically,

    01:03:10.869 --> 01:03:16.289

    but my manager and I would talk a lot about what

    01:03:16.289 --> 01:03:19.730

    I was sharing, but I've never been kind of questioned

    01:03:19.730 --> 01:03:22.389

    on whether or not to share something. I do all

    01:03:22.389 --> 01:03:27.159

    my own social media. it's kind of my space and

    01:03:27.159 --> 01:03:29.860

    also i knew that i would keep sharing my life

    01:03:29.860 --> 01:03:33.400

    which is what i choose to do on social and i

    01:03:33.400 --> 01:03:36.019

    was pregnant and i was climbing so i wasn't gonna

    01:03:36.019 --> 01:03:40.460

    hide it yeah um yeah this was a fun one yeah

    01:03:40.460 --> 01:03:42.980

    that's for sure i just feel like i would be terrified

    01:03:42.980 --> 01:03:45.559

    because i mean like miscarriages are terrible

    01:03:45.559 --> 01:03:47.980

    they can happen for any reason and like not be

    01:03:47.980 --> 01:03:50.139

    related to like your exercise or what you're

    01:03:50.139 --> 01:03:53.130

    doing at all and so i'd be terrified that something

    01:03:53.130 --> 01:03:56.909

    bad would happen and then it would be misconstrued

    01:03:56.909 --> 01:03:59.510

    oh of course that's what that yeah like you were

    01:03:59.510 --> 01:04:01.929

    doing this yeah that would be terrifying for

    01:04:01.929 --> 01:04:04.630

    me yeah i think i always just try to be honest

    01:04:04.630 --> 01:04:08.289

    and share my honest kind of appraisal of where

    01:04:08.289 --> 01:04:14.409

    i'm at and what i'm doing um and if i were to

    01:04:14.409 --> 01:04:16.369

    have a miscarriage then i would communicate that

    01:04:16.369 --> 01:04:20.269

    and i'd choose how much i wanted to share around

    01:04:20.269 --> 01:04:27.059

    the the narrative of it. But I think for my mental

    01:04:27.059 --> 01:04:29.500

    health and my physical health, climbing was far

    01:04:29.500 --> 01:04:34.699

    superior to any of the risk it felt of not climbing

    01:04:34.699 --> 01:04:38.260

    because of the judgment of it. You know, like

    01:04:38.260 --> 01:04:41.480

    I needed to keep climbing if I could. I was going

    01:04:41.480 --> 01:04:43.739

    to stop if I felt like I needed to. I know my

    01:04:43.739 --> 01:04:45.840

    body so well. I've been through so many injuries.

    01:04:46.019 --> 01:04:49.159

    I also wasn't falling at the time because I had

    01:04:49.159 --> 01:04:52.530

    a knee injury. um not to say you can't fall whilst

    01:04:52.530 --> 01:04:55.170

    climbing when pregnant some people choose to

    01:04:55.170 --> 01:04:57.630

    i've also had a lot of knee injuries previously

    01:04:57.630 --> 01:05:00.730

    where i know for a fact i can climb on a wall

    01:05:00.730 --> 01:05:04.570

    without falling my ability to risk assess is

    01:05:04.570 --> 01:05:10.269

    incredibly good after a lot of injuries um so

    01:05:10.269 --> 01:05:12.570

    yeah i think for me it was just where i was at

    01:05:12.570 --> 01:05:15.150

    and it was what i was doing and i'm really glad

    01:05:15.150 --> 01:05:17.369

    i was able to climb i had a great birth i had

    01:05:17.369 --> 01:05:21.940

    a pretty simple recovery. Frankie was born at

    01:05:21.940 --> 01:05:26.559

    home in a couple of hours. Yeah, and although

    01:05:26.559 --> 01:05:28.159

    it was definitely the hardest and most painful

    01:05:28.159 --> 01:05:31.619

    thing I've ever done, I feel really lucky that

    01:05:31.619 --> 01:05:34.760

    it went very smoothly. Yeah, who's to say that's

    01:05:34.760 --> 01:05:37.659

    because I climbed, but it didn't have a negative

    01:05:37.659 --> 01:05:41.300

    impact for me personally. I'm glad that went

    01:05:41.300 --> 01:05:46.280

    super well. Yeah, that can always be scary. How

    01:05:46.280 --> 01:05:48.880

    soon after giving birth did you get back into

    01:05:48.880 --> 01:05:52.179

    climbing? So my women's health physio wanted

    01:05:52.179 --> 01:05:55.179

    me to wait six weeks because that's the guidance

    01:05:55.179 --> 01:05:58.760

    in the UK. I waited five, which I think is pretty

    01:05:58.760 --> 01:06:02.380

    good because I felt like I could climb the day

    01:06:02.380 --> 01:06:05.800

    after, to be honest. I felt fine. So I did try

    01:06:05.800 --> 01:06:09.010

    to wait six weeks, but I made it five. Did you

    01:06:09.010 --> 01:06:12.230

    feel any pressure to heal as quickly as possible

    01:06:12.230 --> 01:06:15.590

    because of like the content grind? No, no I didn't

    01:06:15.590 --> 01:06:20.309

    actually. I knew I had goals but first and foremost

    01:06:20.309 --> 01:06:24.769

    my goal was to be the best mum that I could be.

    01:06:25.670 --> 01:06:28.909

    I really wanted to breastfeed if I could. I was

    01:06:28.909 --> 01:06:32.510

    lucky in that journey and was able to. So I was

    01:06:32.510 --> 01:06:35.610

    pretty tired. from lack of sleep and breastfeeding

    01:06:35.610 --> 01:06:39.550

    in the early days. I also knew I needed knee

    01:06:39.550 --> 01:06:41.949

    surgery, so I had double knee surgery at six

    01:06:41.949 --> 01:06:46.909

    months postpartum. The only pressure I felt...

    01:06:47.719 --> 01:06:50.579

    to kind of get strong again was because I really

    01:06:50.579 --> 01:06:53.400

    wanted to be part of the Red Bull dual ascent

    01:06:53.400 --> 01:06:56.059

    experience and they asked me I knew I wasn't

    01:06:56.059 --> 01:06:58.119

    gonna be ready to compete I was five months postpartum

    01:06:58.119 --> 01:06:59.679

    but they asked if I wanted to do the first ascent

    01:06:59.679 --> 01:07:02.320

    so I put pressure on myself to get fit for that

    01:07:02.320 --> 01:07:04.960

    which was really fun okay not bad pressure I

    01:07:04.960 --> 01:07:08.639

    love pressure I love a goal And when I think

    01:07:08.639 --> 01:07:10.219

    about the fact that I climbed that thing at five

    01:07:10.219 --> 01:07:13.000

    months postpartum, it blows my mind. Like I do

    01:07:13.000 --> 01:07:16.619

    not know how I did that. But it was a fun challenge

    01:07:16.619 --> 01:07:18.440

    and it was rope climbing. So I knew there was

    01:07:18.440 --> 01:07:20.219

    no impact because I couldn't take impact on my

    01:07:20.219 --> 01:07:22.960

    knees still at that point. And it was just a

    01:07:22.960 --> 01:07:25.139

    nice way to try and do a bunch of rope climbing,

    01:07:25.219 --> 01:07:27.539

    gain some fitness ahead of having double knee

    01:07:27.539 --> 01:07:31.199

    surgery, which, yeah, at six months postpartum,

    01:07:31.199 --> 01:07:33.760

    I probably wouldn't recommend doing. But I needed

    01:07:33.760 --> 01:07:36.340

    it doing so. Okay, makes sense. Another like

    01:07:36.340 --> 01:07:38.039

    audience question kind of related to this. What

    01:07:38.039 --> 01:07:40.260

    was the most helpful postpartum training tip

    01:07:40.260 --> 01:07:44.579

    or exercise that you did? My most helpful postpartum

    01:07:44.579 --> 01:07:48.079

    training tip would be the breath work that I

    01:07:48.079 --> 01:07:52.579

    got from Joy. So really connecting with expanding

    01:07:52.579 --> 01:07:56.579

    the rib cage and all the breath work to connect

    01:07:56.579 --> 01:07:59.679

    with my body again. Because I think it's really

    01:07:59.679 --> 01:08:02.980

    easy to... get sucked into core strength training

    01:08:02.980 --> 01:08:06.380

    and get into a rhythm of doing stuff but actually

    01:08:06.380 --> 01:08:10.239

    is taking time to do breath work and really expand

    01:08:10.239 --> 01:08:14.139

    our thoracic and like open up here is so useful

    01:08:14.139 --> 01:08:16.439

    to allow for like lots of healing to go on and

    01:08:16.439 --> 01:08:19.180

    lots of connection to happen and i feel like

    01:08:19.180 --> 01:08:24.920

    the postpartum healing is quite natural um i'd

    01:08:24.920 --> 01:08:29.000

    say it wasn't until probably a year that i actually

    01:08:29.000 --> 01:08:32.199

    felt like i was starting to make gains again

    01:08:32.199 --> 01:08:35.920

    and i was starting to recover um every month

    01:08:35.920 --> 01:08:37.760

    i'd be like oh i'm recovered now i need to start

    01:08:37.760 --> 01:08:39.739

    training again to get stronger and i wouldn't

    01:08:39.739 --> 01:08:41.600

    train and then i'd get stronger and i was like

    01:08:41.600 --> 01:08:45.420

    oh my body is still healing okay um so it was

    01:08:45.420 --> 01:08:47.380

    probably like a year to 18 months where i felt

    01:08:47.380 --> 01:08:51.399

    like okay i can start building from here as opposed

    01:08:51.399 --> 01:08:55.039

    to just trying to recover my body um but yeah

    01:08:55.039 --> 01:08:57.659

    the breath work was the biggest tip that i didn't

    01:08:57.659 --> 01:09:01.449

    think about before pregnancy Okay. Helpful information.

    01:09:01.630 --> 01:09:04.029

    I just, I feel like I personally have a lot of

    01:09:04.029 --> 01:09:07.250

    fear with like pregnancy and like climbing. And

    01:09:07.250 --> 01:09:09.130

    so when I grew up, I watched a ton of videos

    01:09:09.130 --> 01:09:11.949

    about pregnancy, like giving birth. No way. So

    01:09:11.949 --> 01:09:14.569

    yeah, this is just, this is all very fascinating.

    01:09:14.810 --> 01:09:18.130

    I mean, I can talk, I could do 10 podcasts on

    01:09:18.130 --> 01:09:20.710

    pregnancy and giving birth. And I think I didn't

    01:09:20.710 --> 01:09:23.069

    have any fear. I wasn't scared about pregnancy.

    01:09:23.229 --> 01:09:24.909

    I wasn't scared about climbing while pregnant.

    01:09:25.069 --> 01:09:27.289

    I wasn't scared about giving birth. I was super

    01:09:27.289 --> 01:09:31.569

    excited about it. as well like I watched a lot

    01:09:31.569 --> 01:09:34.550

    of videos on stuff and I read a lot of birth

    01:09:34.550 --> 01:09:39.729

    stories and I really wanted to have like an unmedicated

    01:09:39.729 --> 01:09:44.109

    home birth if I could which is what I did. Especially

    01:09:44.109 --> 01:09:46.350

    with your epidural experience. Exactly there

    01:09:46.350 --> 01:09:49.609

    was no way I was having an epidural no no possible

    01:09:49.609 --> 01:09:53.710

    way and I know that I always said I had birth

    01:09:54.109 --> 01:09:56.630

    preferences over a birth plan right i know things

    01:09:56.630 --> 01:09:59.050

    don't go to plan and i honestly really thank

    01:09:59.050 --> 01:10:02.449

    my competition days for how kind of structured

    01:10:02.449 --> 01:10:05.250

    i could be around how i wanted my birth to look

    01:10:05.250 --> 01:10:07.729

    but also how i was able to adapt with the flow

    01:10:07.729 --> 01:10:09.949

    of things not changing and shifting because that

    01:10:09.949 --> 01:10:12.170

    is literally what comp i make like because like

    01:10:12.170 --> 01:10:14.069

    you're like this is the plan oh this here's a

    01:10:14.069 --> 01:10:16.890

    curveball his go on his thoughts and it's just

    01:10:16.890 --> 01:10:19.869

    a bit like parenting actually yeah yeah best

    01:10:19.869 --> 01:10:22.670

    easy but parenting is a whole different ball

    01:10:22.670 --> 01:10:25.050

    game How do you balance the training and turns?

    01:10:25.390 --> 01:10:29.229

    I don't know yet. But still bigger than that,

    01:10:29.229 --> 01:10:32.770

    so I'll call that a hat. It's really fun, but

    01:10:32.770 --> 01:10:34.930

    it's definitely a challenge. And I think that

    01:10:34.930 --> 01:10:38.130

    there's been a few sweet spots where it's been

    01:10:38.130 --> 01:10:40.569

    easier, but now Frankie's getting a little older.

    01:10:41.069 --> 01:10:44.310

    She's so inquisitive and intelligent and curious,

    01:10:44.409 --> 01:10:47.949

    and I want to embrace that as much as possible.

    01:10:48.250 --> 01:10:51.050

    But it means that more and more of my time of

    01:10:51.050 --> 01:10:54.270

    training and... Lessa climbing, she's great at

    01:10:54.270 --> 01:10:57.750

    the crag, but training, I need to have my time

    01:10:57.750 --> 01:11:00.970

    and space to do that. So I need to protect space

    01:11:00.970 --> 01:11:04.729

    and time away so that I can really focus because

    01:11:04.729 --> 01:11:07.029

    otherwise I just end up chatting to her about

    01:11:07.029 --> 01:11:09.149

    why I want to use crimps over undercuts because

    01:11:09.149 --> 01:11:11.289

    she's genuinely that curious. And she'll make

    01:11:11.289 --> 01:11:14.430

    boulders and she'll be engaged in what I'm doing,

    01:11:14.489 --> 01:11:17.350

    which I love and I want to embrace that, but

    01:11:17.350 --> 01:11:21.050

    I need time away to be able to focus on it. So

    01:11:21.050 --> 01:11:22.869

    I'm still trying to figure out how that looks

    01:11:22.869 --> 01:11:26.430

    because the past kind of year or so, it's been

    01:11:26.430 --> 01:11:28.449

    fine for her to be around and she's been easily

    01:11:28.449 --> 01:11:32.970

    entertained doing drawing or reading or she stopped

    01:11:32.970 --> 01:11:35.130

    taking naps. Actually, that's been the trickiest

    01:11:35.130 --> 01:11:40.810

    bit. She stopped taking naps. So yeah, I feel

    01:11:40.810 --> 01:11:43.609

    like you figure out one thing when you have a

    01:11:43.609 --> 01:11:46.029

    kid and then something else changes. So yeah,

    01:11:46.130 --> 01:11:47.630

    that's the thing that's changed right now is.

    01:11:48.109 --> 01:11:50.109

    squeezing everything because my husband trains

    01:11:50.109 --> 01:11:52.510

    too yeah we'll have a great nanny she's with

    01:11:52.510 --> 01:11:55.449

    us three days a week but i'm like oh kind of

    01:11:55.449 --> 01:11:57.569

    wish i had nanny five days a week say maybe we

    01:11:57.569 --> 01:12:00.270

    need to find more jogger yeah every year brings

    01:12:00.270 --> 01:12:03.909

    haystack every year every day okay every hour

    01:12:03.909 --> 01:12:09.850

    um i think you kind of uh we're getting into

    01:12:09.850 --> 01:12:12.970

    this earlier and the answer is no but does the

    01:12:12.970 --> 01:12:14.770

    thought ever creep in that you should pull like

    01:12:14.770 --> 01:12:18.680

    a giant can and return to kappa no No way. If

    01:12:18.680 --> 01:12:20.420

    I could maybe compete for a different country,

    01:12:20.579 --> 01:12:23.659

    I'd be interested. No. Because I wouldn't go

    01:12:23.659 --> 01:12:26.399

    anywhere near GB climbing ever again because

    01:12:26.399 --> 01:12:30.119

    of the politics. I think for my own mental health.

    01:12:31.239 --> 01:12:34.000

    Is that something you want to get into? I think

    01:12:34.000 --> 01:12:36.239

    it's just complicated and I actually can't really

    01:12:36.239 --> 01:12:37.920

    get into the state of where it's at right now

    01:12:37.920 --> 01:12:40.260

    because I genuinely don't know. I've pulled away

    01:12:40.260 --> 01:12:44.789

    from that. But... It just wasn't a healthy place

    01:12:44.789 --> 01:12:48.829

    for me to be as an athlete in terms of the way

    01:12:48.829 --> 01:12:52.430

    it was structured and what was coming. And maybe

    01:12:52.430 --> 01:12:55.510

    it's got better. I genuinely don't know. So I

    01:12:55.510 --> 01:12:59.010

    can't speak for what it's like now. But yeah,

    01:12:59.090 --> 01:13:03.229

    for my own sake, no. I don't know. Every now

    01:13:03.229 --> 01:13:07.289

    and then there'll be a team training at the gym.

    01:13:07.569 --> 01:13:09.350

    Oh, maybe I'll jump on the boulders and have

    01:13:09.350 --> 01:13:11.699

    a try. And sometimes I do and I'm... usually

    01:13:11.699 --> 01:13:16.340

    pleasantly surprised but i'm still just i just

    01:13:16.340 --> 01:13:19.579

    not a fan of the circus dinos and now they've

    01:13:19.579 --> 01:13:22.739

    got slippery too right i'm like no thank you

    01:13:22.739 --> 01:13:26.060

    i i do not need to fling myself across a wall

    01:13:26.060 --> 01:13:30.239

    to a slippery volume to eat on my face like i

    01:13:30.239 --> 01:13:33.180

    don't want to like i i dug my time getting work

    01:13:33.180 --> 01:13:36.590

    last show yeah um Many of Tristan like the no

    01:13:36.590 --> 01:13:38.470

    -text holds. That's what I mean. You know, like,

    01:13:38.510 --> 01:13:39.770

    when they're, like, flinging themselves across

    01:13:39.770 --> 01:13:41.649

    the walls, like, catching no -text hold with

    01:13:41.649 --> 01:13:44.270

    a toe hook and do a little backflip and land

    01:13:44.270 --> 01:13:46.350

    on their face. I'm like, no, I'm good, Albert.

    01:13:46.489 --> 01:13:49.189

    I'll talk about it. That's great. It's great.

    01:13:49.270 --> 01:13:51.489

    I love watching. It's great entertainment on

    01:13:51.489 --> 01:13:54.550

    this side. But, no, it was fun at the Olympics

    01:13:54.550 --> 01:13:56.310

    to, like, go down the front, chat through all

    01:13:56.310 --> 01:14:01.899

    the beta, or beta, as we say here. and i can

    01:14:01.899 --> 01:14:04.020

    still read all the boulders and i spied a few

    01:14:04.020 --> 01:14:06.739

    different nuances of maybe you could use this

    01:14:06.739 --> 01:14:09.020

    and do that and do this and the setters sometimes

    01:14:09.020 --> 01:14:10.960

    hadn't thought about it and then the climbers

    01:14:10.960 --> 01:14:12.720

    would do i was like yes i've still got that like

    01:14:12.720 --> 01:14:16.500

    edge of what they might do um and again i feel

    01:14:16.500 --> 01:14:19.039

    like that brings so much to commentary of that

    01:14:19.039 --> 01:14:21.659

    competition mindset of like where an athlete

    01:14:21.659 --> 01:14:25.300

    might go and what they might try um just from

    01:14:25.300 --> 01:14:28.409

    being out there and doing it and I still feel

    01:14:28.409 --> 01:14:30.789

    like I have that connection to the comps, despite

    01:14:30.789 --> 01:14:33.670

    it being a while back. But, well, I'm doing a

    01:14:33.670 --> 01:14:36.250

    board comp next week. Does that make sense? It'll

    01:14:36.250 --> 01:14:38.810

    be my first comp. Well, how was the KSSE comp?

    01:14:39.029 --> 01:14:44.449

    I know, it's a start. In Chattanooga, the Expo.

    01:14:44.689 --> 01:14:47.390

    Yeah, Mad Rock asked me to do a board comp, so

    01:14:47.390 --> 01:14:49.729

    I thought it might be fun. Okay, good luck there.

    01:14:49.829 --> 01:14:52.289

    Maybe it'll spark the excitement and you'll make

    01:14:52.289 --> 01:14:56.409

    a return. No, I think, especially with the sport,

    01:14:57.000 --> 01:14:59.579

    still being very much a two -discipline sport,

    01:14:59.680 --> 01:15:03.859

    or it was when I was coming back to climbing,

    01:15:04.079 --> 01:15:06.840

    and we didn't actually know how many medals we

    01:15:06.840 --> 01:15:09.859

    had and the uncertainty around that. I think

    01:15:09.859 --> 01:15:13.159

    it's difficult for the athletes on the circuit

    01:15:13.159 --> 01:15:15.960

    right now to have that uncertainty. Here we're

    01:15:15.960 --> 01:15:20.319

    in 2025, and LA is in 28, and we still don't

    01:15:20.319 --> 01:15:24.000

    know what athletes are training for. And a three

    01:15:24.000 --> 01:15:26.979

    -year cycle. sounds like a long time but i don't

    01:15:26.979 --> 01:15:32.420

    think it is um but yeah i don't i definitely

    01:15:32.420 --> 01:15:34.920

    don't think i could come back to bouldering yeah

    01:15:34.920 --> 01:15:36.899

    i guess it is a little harder like specifically

    01:15:36.899 --> 01:15:38.840

    for bouldering compared to league climbing to

    01:15:38.840 --> 01:15:41.359

    like get back into it yeah and i'd love to see

    01:15:41.359 --> 01:15:45.479

    like a mum climber make it to the olympics and

    01:15:45.479 --> 01:15:49.340

    you know jay and kim was so painfully close oh

    01:15:49.340 --> 01:15:52.859

    my goodness oh i was devastated for her she is

    01:15:52.859 --> 01:15:57.189

    such a badass and an inspiration. Yeah, it'll

    01:15:57.189 --> 01:16:00.609

    be really cool to see Eugenia Kazbekova's transition

    01:16:00.609 --> 01:16:03.590

    into becoming a mom and see whether she wants

    01:16:03.590 --> 01:16:08.569

    to take on LA. Wouldn't it be so cool? And that's

    01:16:08.569 --> 01:16:11.310

    super inspiring to me. But at the same time,

    01:16:11.310 --> 01:16:13.890

    for me, I always knew I was going to go rock

    01:16:13.890 --> 01:16:16.670

    climbing at some point. I always knew I was going

    01:16:16.670 --> 01:16:18.989

    to quit comps. So my goal was to win a World

    01:16:18.989 --> 01:16:21.890

    Cup. Just one. And I won one. I was like, maybe

    01:16:21.890 --> 01:16:24.250

    I could try to win the overall. And then I did

    01:16:24.250 --> 01:16:28.029

    that. And then I really hurt my shoulder at the

    01:16:28.029 --> 01:16:31.489

    last comp of that year. So 2016, I had a huge

    01:16:31.489 --> 01:16:34.590

    shoulder injury in the finals. So I couldn't

    01:16:34.590 --> 01:16:36.630

    lift my trophy in the air on the podium of the

    01:16:36.630 --> 01:16:38.210

    overall. And I was like, oh, this is my goal.

    01:16:38.329 --> 01:16:40.430

    And I wanted that picture, like holding the trophy

    01:16:40.430 --> 01:16:42.329

    up. So I was like, cool, I'm going to try to

    01:16:42.329 --> 01:16:44.210

    win it again so that I can hold my trophy up.

    01:16:44.250 --> 01:16:46.229

    Because I kind of didn't know what else to do.

    01:16:46.289 --> 01:16:48.390

    I achieved my goal way quicker than I expected.

    01:16:49.279 --> 01:16:52.020

    And then I won it again in 2017. This was like,

    01:16:52.039 --> 01:16:53.699

    oh, shit, that kind of happened quicker than

    01:16:53.699 --> 01:16:56.800

    I planned. Got my trophy held up from the other.

    01:16:57.640 --> 01:17:01.060

    And then the only reason I did the Olympics or

    01:17:01.060 --> 01:17:04.920

    tried to qualify was because a new airways transferred

    01:17:04.920 --> 01:17:08.039

    to rock farming at some point. But I also wanted

    01:17:08.039 --> 01:17:12.659

    to have a baby if I could. My husband, or my

    01:17:12.659 --> 01:17:15.060

    boyfriend at the time, I guess, was like, you

    01:17:15.060 --> 01:17:16.619

    should do the Olympics. You should try to qualify.

    01:17:16.920 --> 01:17:19.750

    Really? Like, you comps are pretty intense. This

    01:17:19.750 --> 01:17:21.829

    is as hard for us as it is for me to compete.

    01:17:22.090 --> 01:17:24.029

    Like, it's a lot of strain on the relationship.

    01:17:24.149 --> 01:17:26.270

    It's a lot of support from him. It's demanding

    01:17:26.270 --> 01:17:28.869

    for us both. The Olympics is only going to intensify

    01:17:28.869 --> 01:17:31.609

    that. And he was like, yeah, but, you know, four

    01:17:31.609 --> 01:17:33.970

    more years, no babies. And I was like, oh, fuck,

    01:17:34.109 --> 01:17:36.630

    okay. Okay, I was like, if I do the Olympics,

    01:17:36.750 --> 01:17:38.390

    then we can have a baby. And it was like, okay,

    01:17:38.430 --> 01:17:40.130

    yeah, that's the plan. Like, try to do the Olympics,

    01:17:40.189 --> 01:17:42.390

    then have a baby, then rock fine. So, you know,

    01:17:42.430 --> 01:17:44.310

    I'm kind of doing exactly what I planned. Okay,

    01:17:44.430 --> 01:17:47.649

    perfect. Yeah. kind of weird that you didn't

    01:17:47.649 --> 01:17:49.750

    want to do the olympics just because it's the

    01:17:49.750 --> 01:17:53.529

    olympics like i didn't it was a three discipline

    01:17:53.529 --> 01:17:56.270

    sport so you know i think if it was bouldering

    01:17:56.270 --> 01:17:58.449

    then yeah i would have been like oh my god i

    01:17:58.449 --> 01:18:00.510

    want to try and do the olympics at school but

    01:18:00.510 --> 01:18:04.609

    it didn't feel like anyone could have that enthusiasm

    01:18:04.609 --> 01:18:08.609

    behind it because it was like who like who the

    01:18:08.609 --> 01:18:10.569

    fuck knows where anyone's going to be i'm actually

    01:18:10.569 --> 01:18:12.350

    thinking you know what because nobody did it

    01:18:12.350 --> 01:18:15.359

    so Like, no one knew how fast Adam Ondra was

    01:18:15.359 --> 01:18:17.579

    in speed. Yeah. Like, was he going to qualify?

    01:18:17.720 --> 01:18:21.180

    He almost didn't qualify, you know? No one knew

    01:18:21.180 --> 01:18:23.279

    who was going to win or how it was going to work.

    01:18:23.520 --> 01:18:27.479

    So when it was announced, there was a buzz, but,

    01:18:27.560 --> 01:18:30.359

    like, this kind of disconcerted, confused buzz,

    01:18:30.420 --> 01:18:33.140

    like, oh, yay, how's this going to work? Who's

    01:18:33.140 --> 01:18:36.979

    going to be where? Like, no one could have called,

    01:18:37.079 --> 01:18:40.739

    like, the men's podium, for example, in Tokyo.

    01:18:41.460 --> 01:18:45.380

    And I think... It's great that our sport was

    01:18:45.380 --> 01:18:50.159

    showcased, but it didn't feel like a pathway

    01:18:50.159 --> 01:18:53.239

    you could have chosen. I don't think anyone was

    01:18:53.239 --> 01:18:54.819

    confident that they were going to make it to

    01:18:54.819 --> 01:18:56.560

    the other pit games, maybe other than Rania.

    01:18:57.840 --> 01:19:00.880

    She's kind of our own lead. But everyone else,

    01:19:00.899 --> 01:19:02.979

    it was like, ooh, are we going to make it? And

    01:19:02.979 --> 01:19:04.880

    a lot of countries were competing for spots against

    01:19:04.880 --> 01:19:08.760

    each other. So there was so much tension there.

    01:19:10.130 --> 01:19:12.289

    So when I qualified super early, that was great.

    01:19:12.470 --> 01:19:15.189

    But we really didn't think that I was going to

    01:19:15.189 --> 01:19:17.909

    be like way up there making a medal performance

    01:19:17.909 --> 01:19:22.210

    in 2019. So when I say I wasn't super excited

    01:19:22.210 --> 01:19:24.470

    to do the Olympics, it's not because I was like,

    01:19:24.489 --> 01:19:27.770

    eh. It was because I was like, oof, like bolder

    01:19:27.770 --> 01:19:30.569

    lead and speed. Like, I don't know who I am as

    01:19:30.569 --> 01:19:34.149

    an athlete across those disciplines. So, yeah,

    01:19:34.189 --> 01:19:37.810

    it just felt so far -fetched and far removed

    01:19:37.810 --> 01:19:40.689

    from who I was at the time. Like I knew I could

    01:19:40.689 --> 01:19:42.390

    win Boulder World Cups and I could keep doing

    01:19:42.390 --> 01:19:47.369

    that for a while maybe. But yeah, to transition

    01:19:47.369 --> 01:19:51.329

    into a three -discipline athlete felt just so

    01:19:51.329 --> 01:19:53.970

    unknown, you know. Yeah, I guess that makes sense.

    01:19:54.090 --> 01:19:56.010

    That's pretty interesting because I feel like

    01:19:56.010 --> 01:19:58.630

    as a viewer, I was kind of just like, well, I

    01:19:58.630 --> 01:20:00.630

    wonder, I want to see like how fast these like

    01:20:00.630 --> 01:20:03.430

    random athletes are doing speed. Yeah, and that's

    01:20:03.430 --> 01:20:04.909

    what it felt. It felt like we're a random athlete

    01:20:04.909 --> 01:20:07.500

    here in speed. We won't speak like this. Like,

    01:20:07.500 --> 01:20:09.460

    some of these transition really well in speed

    01:20:09.460 --> 01:20:11.600

    and could be pretty good, but they're... Wait,

    01:20:12.960 --> 01:20:15.020

    I thought I heard that you did pretty well in

    01:20:15.020 --> 01:20:18.359

    speed, because I talked to Tom Greenall. So,

    01:20:18.399 --> 01:20:20.800

    like, oh, you did, like, your bouldering transition

    01:20:20.800 --> 01:20:24.220

    really well to speed. No, I don't think so. Yeah.

    01:20:24.319 --> 01:20:29.979

    I mean, maybe he's talking about... tokyo um

    01:20:29.979 --> 01:20:33.600

    pachioji at the qualifier uh i got super lucky

    01:20:33.600 --> 01:20:36.140

    so i got a really good speed result in final

    01:20:36.140 --> 01:20:38.739

    which helped me get the bronze medal but my time

    01:20:38.739 --> 01:20:41.659

    wasn't good and i i mean no i don't think i was

    01:20:41.659 --> 01:20:44.119

    very good so you kind of won't return to kai

    01:20:44.119 --> 01:20:46.899

    prime unfortunately so if not that what are you

    01:20:46.899 --> 01:20:49.220

    working towards now what's your next goal right

    01:20:49.220 --> 01:20:55.970

    now my main goals are just to explore how much

    01:20:55.970 --> 01:20:58.369

    I can push myself on rock and where my boundaries

    01:20:58.369 --> 01:21:02.569

    lie. I think in the past year, I've climbed,

    01:21:02.630 --> 01:21:06.149

    I think, five V14s. I don't think any of them

    01:21:06.149 --> 01:21:08.970

    have taken me more than two days. Wow. Okay.

    01:21:09.109 --> 01:21:11.590

    I don't actually think... Yeah. So maybe I need

    01:21:11.590 --> 01:21:16.210

    to try a little harder. I am not someone who

    01:21:16.210 --> 01:21:19.409

    wants to sit under a boulder for a crazy amount

    01:21:19.409 --> 01:21:24.119

    of sessions and kind of really... Push in that

    01:21:24.119 --> 01:21:26.300

    kind of style. So I want to train I want to push

    01:21:26.300 --> 01:21:28.140

    myself physically and find something that I find

    01:21:28.140 --> 01:21:29.880

    challenging and that feels at the right level

    01:21:29.880 --> 01:21:33.680

    Yeah, and I don't know what that is right now

    01:21:33.680 --> 01:21:35.539

    I have a lot of boulders that I want to do that

    01:21:35.539 --> 01:21:38.220

    I want to finish off There's climbs that are

    01:21:38.220 --> 01:21:40.920

    easier than kind of the top grade that I've climbed

    01:21:40.920 --> 01:21:43.819

    in the UK that I want to finish off like v13s

    01:21:43.819 --> 01:21:47.199

    That are just super hard for me. Yeah, you know

    01:21:47.199 --> 01:21:50.340

    the style but I want to do them for the history

    01:21:50.340 --> 01:21:55.489

    and kind of lure. And then there's a couple of

    01:21:55.489 --> 01:21:57.289

    routes that I'd be interested in putting some

    01:21:57.289 --> 01:22:01.529

    time into too. But yeah, I'm just excited to

    01:22:01.529 --> 01:22:05.050

    be a professional climber and go climbing. Not

    01:22:05.050 --> 01:22:07.369

    have any surgeries. That is my main goal, to

    01:22:07.369 --> 01:22:09.850

    have no more surgeries. I had shoulder surgery

    01:22:09.850 --> 01:22:13.729

    last year. Yeah, it was the year before I had

    01:22:13.729 --> 01:22:16.390

    double knee surgery. So I'm just good with surgeries.

    01:22:16.630 --> 01:22:19.699

    I'm done with them. keep getting stronger and

    01:22:19.699 --> 01:22:23.220

    healthier and then i guess i'm also a woman in

    01:22:23.220 --> 01:22:25.579

    my 30s so i have to decide if i want to have

    01:22:25.579 --> 01:22:27.539

    more children or not at some point soon which

    01:22:27.539 --> 01:22:30.319

    is a big question and i get asked all the time

    01:22:30.319 --> 01:22:34.000

    well and i don't know is the answer but i know

    01:22:34.000 --> 01:22:36.359

    i have to decide that and i would like to decide

    01:22:36.359 --> 01:22:42.119

    that soon because i yeah it feels like a huge

    01:22:42.119 --> 01:22:45.340

    thing to make a decision on um and i'm so torn

    01:22:45.340 --> 01:22:49.220

    but it's hard i don't think i would look to come

    01:22:49.220 --> 01:22:54.100

    back to the elite end of bouldering for sure

    01:22:54.100 --> 01:22:58.039

    after another baby so really um i wouldn't look

    01:22:58.039 --> 01:23:00.479

    to try and do that i don't think now is what

    01:23:00.479 --> 01:23:03.239

    i feel like maybe that change in the future why

    01:23:03.239 --> 01:23:05.479

    is that just because like because it's so hard

    01:23:05.479 --> 01:23:08.739

    yeah and it's like i don't think i had a tough

    01:23:08.739 --> 01:23:11.560

    time of it in terms of birth pregnancy pregnancy

    01:23:11.560 --> 01:23:15.149

    birth recovery i had a great run um but it was

    01:23:15.149 --> 01:23:17.409

    still so hard and you know what it's so often

    01:23:17.409 --> 01:23:19.130

    like guys that have kids are like are you gonna

    01:23:19.130 --> 01:23:21.130

    have another one you bounced back so quick last

    01:23:21.130 --> 01:23:23.770

    time and i'm like you i did not bounce back yeah

    01:23:23.770 --> 01:23:27.529

    like i grinded away and i pushed so hard and

    01:23:27.529 --> 01:23:30.810

    it wasn't easy and i do try to share that obviously

    01:23:30.810 --> 01:23:33.289

    not very well um because a lot of people think

    01:23:33.289 --> 01:23:35.210

    like oh your comeback was pretty smooth and it

    01:23:35.210 --> 01:23:37.350

    was pretty simple and i'm like no i did have

    01:23:37.350 --> 01:23:39.800

    a double knee surgery in there and it's like

    01:23:39.800 --> 01:23:41.779

    oh well that it's even smoother if you had that

    01:23:41.779 --> 01:23:43.960

    too and I'm like oh no it was really difficult

    01:23:43.960 --> 01:23:47.779

    and it takes so much strain and so much support

    01:23:47.779 --> 01:23:51.359

    from those around me that I don't think I'd want

    01:23:51.359 --> 01:23:54.319

    to do that again um in terms of coming back to

    01:23:54.319 --> 01:23:58.739

    the elite end of pushing and climbing hard consistently

    01:23:58.739 --> 01:24:00.680

    outdoors because that's something that I'm really

    01:24:00.680 --> 01:24:03.300

    proud of that I can do now is I can climb hard

    01:24:03.300 --> 01:24:05.420

    and I'm doing a lot of hard climbs outdoors too

    01:24:05.420 --> 01:24:09.720

    um But no, I don't know is the answer. Makes

    01:24:09.720 --> 01:24:11.979

    sense. To all of those questions. All right.

    01:24:12.060 --> 01:24:14.100

    I mean, everyone says they would love to be a

    01:24:14.100 --> 01:24:16.600

    parent if they get to be the dad, so. Oh, do

    01:24:16.600 --> 01:24:19.439

    they? Yeah. Oh, I love being a mum. Oh my gosh,

    01:24:19.439 --> 01:24:22.500

    being a mum is the best ever. It's all the effort

    01:24:22.500 --> 01:24:24.800

    you've got to put in. Yeah, it is so hard. It's

    01:24:24.800 --> 01:24:29.779

    exhausting. I have a whole new appreciation for

    01:24:29.779 --> 01:24:34.170

    the word tired and I feel... offended when teenagers

    01:24:34.170 --> 01:24:36.590

    tell me they're tired because I'm like, you don't

    01:24:36.590 --> 01:24:41.229

    know. But I was that teenager. So yeah, I wouldn't

    01:24:41.229 --> 01:24:43.130

    change being a mom for the world. I would never,

    01:24:43.170 --> 01:24:46.810

    ever wish my life to be different. I adore being

    01:24:46.810 --> 01:24:51.250

    a mom. It's the best thing ever. But it's exhausting.

    01:24:51.970 --> 01:24:55.369

    And yeah, I loved growing a human and I loved

    01:24:55.369 --> 01:24:59.470

    giving birth, even though it was savage. But

    01:25:00.659 --> 01:25:03.840

    The bond I have with my daughter and the goals

    01:25:03.840 --> 01:25:06.479

    I have around parenting. I feel really really

    01:25:06.479 --> 01:25:11.300

    fortunate to have that But yeah, it's not easy.

    01:25:11.420 --> 01:25:14.039

    Mm -hmm well excited to see what the whole future

    01:25:14.039 --> 01:25:17.779

    holds for you. Thank you Okay, so let's get into

    01:25:17.779 --> 01:25:20.279

    a few of the quick audience questions. We got

    01:25:20.279 --> 01:25:23.819

    three here. So in regards to Adidas trimming

    01:25:23.819 --> 01:25:26.319

    back on their climbing sponsorships, sorry that

    01:25:26.319 --> 01:25:28.779

    that happened. No, it's okay. What are your thoughts

    01:25:28.779 --> 01:25:31.220

    on sponsorship and how it differs between climbing

    01:25:31.220 --> 01:25:33.199

    niche brands, brands that are well represented

    01:25:33.199 --> 01:25:36.539

    in extreme sports and more mainstream fitness

    01:25:36.539 --> 01:25:40.180

    slash consumer brands? And do you think women

    01:25:40.180 --> 01:25:42.859

    climbers are in a better or worse position than

    01:25:42.859 --> 01:25:45.229

    in other sports for sponsorship? I feel like

    01:25:45.229 --> 01:25:47.310

    that's a lot of questions in one. It is. Which

    01:25:47.310 --> 01:25:51.250

    one do you want me to answer? I guess let's do

    01:25:51.250 --> 01:25:55.689

    how it differs between climbing specific brands

    01:25:55.689 --> 01:26:00.670

    versus extremes for its brands. I think I got

    01:26:00.670 --> 01:26:04.149

    a lot of views into how it differs between climbing

    01:26:04.149 --> 01:26:07.210

    specific brands in the mainstream world during

    01:26:07.210 --> 01:26:09.250

    the Olympics and working with different brands.

    01:26:10.109 --> 01:26:12.750

    I think our sport's in a big transition phase

    01:26:12.750 --> 01:26:15.029

    as we're coming into the Olympics and brands

    01:26:15.029 --> 01:26:18.189

    are becoming more interested. I guess in terms

    01:26:18.189 --> 01:26:20.409

    of climbing brands and more extreme sports brands.

    01:26:21.050 --> 01:26:23.630

    I'm not too sure who the extreme sports brands

    01:26:23.630 --> 01:26:26.409

    are, maybe Red Bull, like I worked with Red Bull

    01:26:26.409 --> 01:26:28.810

    and have done for a long time. They are by far

    01:26:28.810 --> 01:26:32.189

    the most supportive big brand I've worked with.

    01:26:33.329 --> 01:26:37.350

    I've had so much support from them in terms of

    01:26:37.350 --> 01:26:42.510

    physically and recovery wise surgeries and also

    01:26:42.510 --> 01:26:46.210

    they build a really great team around you and

    01:26:46.210 --> 01:26:50.640

    like an athlete team. Yeah, I absolutely adore

    01:26:50.640 --> 01:26:53.479

    working with Red Bull. They do so much for athletes

    01:26:53.479 --> 01:26:57.180

    that I genuinely get, like I want to put my cap

    01:26:57.180 --> 01:26:59.659

    on, like I want to represent them because they

    01:26:59.659 --> 01:27:02.800

    are such an important brand in helping you build

    01:27:02.800 --> 01:27:05.520

    up to get to where you want to be. They really

    01:27:05.520 --> 01:27:09.539

    align with you on your goals. And yeah, I'm incredibly

    01:27:09.539 --> 01:27:12.539

    proud to be a Red Bull athlete. I think it's

    01:27:12.539 --> 01:27:14.600

    really good that they're in climbing and they're

    01:27:14.600 --> 01:27:18.779

    pushing into different spheres too. to have that

    01:27:18.779 --> 01:27:20.500

    network and connection of different athletes

    01:27:20.500 --> 01:27:24.000

    from different sports is so privileged to be

    01:27:24.000 --> 01:27:26.739

    in that like kind of community of athletes you

    01:27:26.739 --> 01:27:29.500

    know Red Bull UK feels like a real family to

    01:27:29.500 --> 01:27:32.819

    me um so yeah I really love working with them

    01:27:32.819 --> 01:27:35.460

    um and then I've worked with a few different

    01:27:35.460 --> 01:27:37.739

    brands in the mainstream world but it's been

    01:27:37.739 --> 01:27:40.239

    quite fleeting because that's often the way with

    01:27:40.239 --> 01:27:42.359

    the Olympics you pick up Olympic sponsors and

    01:27:42.359 --> 01:27:46.819

    then that transitions and differs and right now

    01:27:46.819 --> 01:27:49.779

    I don't know who I'll look to work with next

    01:27:49.779 --> 01:27:53.619

    in terms of apparel or if I will I think it feels

    01:27:53.619 --> 01:27:57.739

    still quite raw and fresh to be navigating this

    01:27:57.739 --> 01:28:02.000

    space of like post adidas with the ending being

    01:28:02.000 --> 01:28:10.899

    not what I expected so yeah I think climbing

    01:28:10.899 --> 01:28:15.180

    specific brands are Trying to grow a lot at the

    01:28:15.180 --> 01:28:17.119

    minute with the way the sport is growing and

    01:28:17.119 --> 01:28:19.000

    I think that it's cool to see a lot Of sport

    01:28:19.000 --> 01:28:21.239

    for athletes, but it'd be nice to see more. Mm

    01:28:21.239 --> 01:28:24.920

    -hmm. Yeah, do you feel like the adidas thing

    01:28:24.920 --> 01:28:28.060

    kind of happened because of I guess like the

    01:28:28.060 --> 01:28:32.880

    pregnancy and birth and I have I don't know I

    01:28:32.880 --> 01:28:36.739

    still don't know the reason why they didn't continue

    01:28:36.739 --> 01:28:43.680

    my contract And it was quite unexpected. I was

    01:28:43.680 --> 01:28:48.579

    literally at an athlete camp in November in like

    01:28:48.579 --> 01:28:51.579

    HQ where the head of Terrax came and sat us down

    01:28:51.579 --> 01:28:53.960

    and said how important we are and how lucky we

    01:28:53.960 --> 01:28:56.460

    are to be part of the family. So yeah, to find

    01:28:56.460 --> 01:28:58.460

    out two weeks later that I wasn't going to be

    01:28:58.460 --> 01:29:00.420

    part of that family I was lucky to be part of

    01:29:00.420 --> 01:29:05.340

    was really not expected. Yeah, it's the most

    01:29:05.340 --> 01:29:09.909

    like... humiliated and uncomfortable I've ever

    01:29:09.909 --> 01:29:13.270

    been made to feel by a brand um and I'm just

    01:29:13.270 --> 01:29:15.630

    I'm disappointed but I just really hope that

    01:29:15.630 --> 01:29:17.529

    that doesn't happen to future athletes because

    01:29:17.529 --> 01:29:21.109

    like adidas's goal is through sport they have

    01:29:21.109 --> 01:29:23.109

    the power to change lives so I hope that they

    01:29:23.109 --> 01:29:25.250

    do that in a positive way and not a negative

    01:29:25.250 --> 01:29:31.470

    way um but for me now where I am I think it's

    01:29:31.470 --> 01:29:33.890

    just trying to align with brands who understand

    01:29:33.890 --> 01:29:40.369

    my values and are aligned with who i am as an

    01:29:40.369 --> 01:29:43.989

    athlete and yeah it's tricky because i think

    01:29:43.989 --> 01:29:47.949

    that being a mum is what people sometimes see

    01:29:47.949 --> 01:29:50.729

    first and i yeah i'm a professional athlete too

    01:29:50.729 --> 01:29:53.170

    you know i'm kind of pushing at the elite end

    01:29:53.170 --> 01:29:57.649

    of our sport and doing a lot of first female

    01:29:57.649 --> 01:30:02.239

    ascents All of the V14s I've climbed recently

    01:30:02.239 --> 01:30:05.880

    are first female ascents. So I'm like, guys,

    01:30:06.119 --> 01:30:09.140

    I feel like I'm still doing it as a professional

    01:30:09.140 --> 01:30:11.279

    athlete, not just a mum professional athlete.

    01:30:11.420 --> 01:30:13.939

    And I think that navigating that space is a little

    01:30:13.939 --> 01:30:16.560

    tricky sometimes. Well, I'm sorry for that abrupt

    01:30:16.560 --> 01:30:20.979

    end. My gosh. Yeah, me too. well and i guess

    01:30:20.979 --> 01:30:23.140

    also like shout out to madrock for putting together

    01:30:23.140 --> 01:30:25.840

    this interview yeah and madrock have been incredible

    01:30:25.840 --> 01:30:29.640

    they've supported me so much and working with

    01:30:29.640 --> 01:30:33.640

    them is really fun um it feels still new and

    01:30:33.640 --> 01:30:35.619

    fresh but it's been a couple of years now and

    01:30:35.619 --> 01:30:38.640

    um i've worked with other brands in the climbing

    01:30:38.640 --> 01:30:41.479

    community um the climbing hangar who support

    01:30:41.479 --> 01:30:45.359

    me as well um they have been incredible too um

    01:30:45.359 --> 01:30:50.130

    and madrock's vision is so innovative and so

    01:30:50.130 --> 01:30:52.850

    unique that I feel like I'm still grasping the

    01:30:52.850 --> 01:30:55.770

    scope of it because they are really pushing into

    01:30:55.770 --> 01:30:58.609

    so many different areas and what they're doing

    01:30:58.609 --> 01:31:01.670

    with shoes and also looking into other areas

    01:31:01.670 --> 01:31:03.289

    I don't know how much I'm allowed to say so I'm

    01:31:03.289 --> 01:31:05.710

    like oh can I say things but um yeah it's just

    01:31:05.710 --> 01:31:11.529

    been so fun uh to be here in LA to hear what

    01:31:11.529 --> 01:31:13.909

    they're doing and why they're doing it and actually

    01:31:13.909 --> 01:31:15.909

    to feel a sense of community that they've built

    01:31:15.909 --> 01:31:18.850

    here and to be meeting some of the younger athletes

    01:31:18.850 --> 01:31:22.170

    on the team. And yeah, I'm really excited for

    01:31:22.170 --> 01:31:25.149

    my future with Medrock and I absolutely adore

    01:31:25.149 --> 01:31:26.890

    what they're doing and how they're doing it.

    01:31:27.949 --> 01:31:30.390

    I really want to work with brands that I align

    01:31:30.390 --> 01:31:34.010

    with and that want to work with me for me and

    01:31:34.010 --> 01:31:38.170

    share the vision that I have. So yeah, I feel

    01:31:38.170 --> 01:31:41.020

    lucky to be doing that now. It's very unique.

    01:31:41.420 --> 01:31:44.680

    Um, okay. So next one, how much do you emphasize

    01:31:44.680 --> 01:31:47.079

    being well -rounded as a climber now that you

    01:31:47.079 --> 01:31:49.520

    weren't competing anymore? So like, would you

    01:31:49.520 --> 01:31:51.399

    rather prioritize sending the hardest problems

    01:31:51.399 --> 01:31:53.460

    you can in your style or do you still try to

    01:31:53.460 --> 01:31:56.300

    do like, Oh gosh, that's a great question. Thank

    01:31:56.300 --> 01:31:58.039

    you to whoever asked that. And it's something

    01:31:58.039 --> 01:32:00.079

    that I actually talked to my husband about a

    01:32:00.079 --> 01:32:04.220

    lot because he. Tries to he wants to climb like

    01:32:04.220 --> 01:32:07.439

    the best -looking climbs and what he thinks of

    01:32:07.439 --> 01:32:09.520

    his cool lines So it doesn't matter too much

    01:32:09.520 --> 01:32:12.159

    on style for him He's like inspired by the line

    01:32:12.159 --> 01:32:16.739

    which I'm inspired by but also then as a shorter

    01:32:16.739 --> 01:32:18.840

    climber There's a lot that I can't do. Yeah,

    01:32:18.920 --> 01:32:22.399

    there's a lot of styles that I know don't suit

    01:32:22.399 --> 01:32:28.899

    me. I Think I try to train my weaknesses so that

    01:32:28.899 --> 01:32:31.260

    I can become a better climber but ultimately

    01:32:31.949 --> 01:32:34.789

    a lot of the hard climbs I've done are crimps

    01:32:34.789 --> 01:32:37.670

    on overhand because I know I'm good at it, it's

    01:32:37.670 --> 01:32:40.850

    kind of my wheelhouse. But then some of them

    01:32:40.850 --> 01:32:42.789

    are powerful and there's climbs that don't suit

    01:32:42.789 --> 01:32:44.430

    me that I'm like okay I'm gonna go try really

    01:32:44.430 --> 01:32:46.770

    hard on this and I want to climb it for this

    01:32:46.770 --> 01:32:53.069

    reason so yes and no. Okay. I think I steer towards

    01:32:53.069 --> 01:32:55.829

    climbs that make me feel good and I feel like

    01:32:55.829 --> 01:32:58.430

    I can try hard on but I also really want to climb

    01:32:58.430 --> 01:33:03.039

    as much as possible. Okay. and I recently did

    01:33:03.039 --> 01:33:06.600

    a v13 in the UK that's just this super huge powerful

    01:33:06.600 --> 01:33:11.680

    move on really bad feet and a guy commented on

    01:33:11.680 --> 01:33:13.779

    my Instagram like I did not have you down to

    01:33:13.779 --> 01:33:15.760

    do the second descent of this like this is like

    01:33:15.760 --> 01:33:18.720

    a burly like Jim Pope boulder and I was like

    01:33:18.720 --> 01:33:21.060

    I don't actually know what you mean by this like

    01:33:21.060 --> 01:33:23.119

    I don't know whether I should be complimented

    01:33:23.119 --> 01:33:26.529

    or offended and then I thought actually me neither

    01:33:26.529 --> 01:33:28.510

    like no I probably wouldn't have gone and tried

    01:33:28.510 --> 01:33:30.289

    this if I didn't have some encouragement because

    01:33:30.289 --> 01:33:32.869

    I'd almost written it off as like that is way

    01:33:32.869 --> 01:33:35.430

    too powerful for me that is such a huge move

    01:33:35.430 --> 01:33:40.529

    and such a weird box to fit in but I'm glad I

    01:33:40.529 --> 01:33:42.149

    tried it and it took me a couple of sessions

    01:33:42.149 --> 01:33:46.369

    and it was really satisfying to do so yeah hence

    01:33:46.369 --> 01:33:49.050

    why it's yes I don't know I do gravitate towards

    01:33:49.050 --> 01:33:51.930

    stuff that's in my style but I'm trying to do

    01:33:51.930 --> 01:33:54.560

    more in different styles okay But still avoiding

    01:33:54.560 --> 01:33:57.399

    the no -tanks indoor boulders. Yeah. Today a

    01:33:57.399 --> 01:33:59.220

    kid was like, can you show me this comp style

    01:33:59.220 --> 01:34:01.960

    dyno? And I was like, no, I don't have to do

    01:34:01.960 --> 01:34:03.939

    that shit anymore. I didn't swear at the child.

    01:34:04.319 --> 01:34:06.319

    But no, I just don't have to do that anymore.

    01:34:06.420 --> 01:34:09.159

    It's great. I'm like, no, I'm not going to show

    01:34:09.159 --> 01:34:13.779

    you. I can't do it and I don't want to. But yeah,

    01:34:13.800 --> 01:34:16.039

    at the gym, I generally, I'll make around an

    01:34:16.039 --> 01:34:20.430

    entire circuit. So in the gyms I climb up. all

    01:34:20.430 --> 01:34:22.210

    one color will be the same grade. So I'll go

    01:34:22.210 --> 01:34:23.750

    around the whole circuit and I'll try and do

    01:34:23.750 --> 01:34:26.630

    them all. And I will try and do the dinos as

    01:34:26.630 --> 01:34:28.470

    long as I don't feel like I'm going to land on

    01:34:28.470 --> 01:34:32.029

    my face. Okay. Makes sense. All right. Last question.

    01:34:32.369 --> 01:34:35.090

    What is one of your controversial or unpopular

    01:34:35.090 --> 01:34:38.250

    climbing opinions? Ooh, I feel like I should

    01:34:38.250 --> 01:34:40.729

    have been prepared for this. Oh, sorry. It used

    01:34:40.729 --> 01:34:43.149

    to be that I didn't like fun, but I do like it

    01:34:43.149 --> 01:34:45.789

    now. And that's because I just had so many trips

    01:34:45.789 --> 01:34:48.250

    where I sat in the rain. Yeah. So people used

    01:34:48.250 --> 01:34:50.069

    to think that I was ridiculous for not liking

    01:34:50.069 --> 01:34:52.970

    font. But then I went and had like a month of

    01:34:52.970 --> 01:34:54.829

    sun there when I was pregnant and I climbed all

    01:34:54.829 --> 01:34:58.670

    the easy stuff and it was glorious. Unpopular

    01:34:58.670 --> 01:35:01.609

    climbing opinions. I mean, that's a pretty good

    01:35:01.609 --> 01:35:04.630

    one. Yeah. I did change my mind. Okay. Yeah.

    01:35:04.689 --> 01:35:08.449

    So we need a new one. Yeah. Hmm. I don't know.

    01:35:08.489 --> 01:35:10.210

    I feel like. Any of my friends would probably

    01:35:10.210 --> 01:35:12.689

    pull up like 20 of them because I feel like I

    01:35:12.689 --> 01:35:16.369

    have a lot, but they're so normal for me. Yeah.

    01:35:17.569 --> 01:35:20.609

    Well, if you ever think of any. Yeah, I'll let

    01:35:20.609 --> 01:35:22.310

    you know. I'll have a little think about that.

    01:35:22.470 --> 01:35:25.170

    Yeah. Okay. I feel like I must have quite a lot,

    01:35:25.210 --> 01:35:27.850

    actually. Yeah, it's hard to think of in the

    01:35:27.850 --> 01:35:30.909

    moment. I was trying to like get at it a couple

    01:35:30.909 --> 01:35:32.630

    of days ago, but I think you said - Do you have

    01:35:32.630 --> 01:35:37.220

    anything? Oh, see? That's not fair. Yes, it is.

    01:35:37.319 --> 01:35:39.979

    That's not fair. I didn't think my answer for

    01:35:39.979 --> 01:35:43.880

    this. I mean, I feel like my most unpopular climbing

    01:35:43.880 --> 01:35:47.159

    opinion is just that I love comp climbing. And

    01:35:47.159 --> 01:35:49.380

    it's even, like, maybe unpopular amongst comp

    01:35:49.380 --> 01:35:52.979

    climbers. What, that they don't love comp climbing?

    01:35:53.199 --> 01:35:56.079

    Yeah. I just don't. I hate watching climbing.

    01:35:56.699 --> 01:35:58.859

    Like, I don't watch climbing films. I watch the

    01:35:58.859 --> 01:36:01.859

    comps sometimes. Like, I do watch the comps a

    01:36:01.859 --> 01:36:05.239

    bit. But you know, like climbing films, and I

    01:36:05.239 --> 01:36:07.279

    think I got into this a little bit recently.

    01:36:07.859 --> 01:36:10.699

    So basically outdoor climbing films, I just don't

    01:36:10.699 --> 01:36:12.539

    like watching. And I think because when I grew

    01:36:12.539 --> 01:36:15.180

    up, it was all white dudes with their tops off

    01:36:15.180 --> 01:36:18.479

    screaming. And I was like, why? As like a little

    01:36:18.479 --> 01:36:20.579

    seven -year -old kid, would I want to watch that?

    01:36:20.760 --> 01:36:23.340

    And I've been so off -put by the world of outdoor,

    01:36:23.560 --> 01:36:27.060

    like comp, like rock climbing films. I'm like,

    01:36:27.100 --> 01:36:29.720

    ugh, like no. I do watch the comps when they're

    01:36:29.720 --> 01:36:33.710

    at reasonable hour. but no rock climbing films

    01:36:33.710 --> 01:36:36.369

    i've just been so off -put by all the old -school

    01:36:36.369 --> 01:36:42.229

    screamy yeah dudes yeah with their tops off i

    01:36:42.229 --> 01:36:44.149

    guess that is true so maybe that's controversial

    01:36:44.149 --> 01:36:48.289

    okay i just don't like watching climbing that's

    01:36:48.289 --> 01:36:52.609

    pretty controversial yeah i get the outdoor yeah

    01:36:52.609 --> 01:36:55.409

    like rock climbing well i guess my thing is a

    01:36:55.409 --> 01:36:58.729

    little more specific in that i don't really Climb

    01:36:58.729 --> 01:37:01.189

    outside so I don't watch outdoor climbing in

    01:37:01.189 --> 01:37:03.310

    general. Yeah, I'm literally a professional rock

    01:37:03.310 --> 01:37:05.210

    climber who hates watching rock climbing Yeah,

    01:37:05.229 --> 01:37:08.029

    that makes sense. Okay. That's a good one. That's

    01:37:08.029 --> 01:37:11.350

    a good one to end on Okay, so that's all the

    01:37:11.350 --> 01:37:13.489

    questions I had. Thanks so much for joining me

    01:37:13.489 --> 01:37:16.649

    Any last -minute like words of wisdom you want

    01:37:16.649 --> 01:37:21.010

    to get out there? Um, I think my words of wisdom

    01:37:21.010 --> 01:37:25.930

    would be that you don't have to define who you

    01:37:25.930 --> 01:37:30.229

    are and how you're doing it you know there's

    01:37:30.229 --> 01:37:32.529

    so many different ways to do things and right

    01:37:32.529 --> 01:37:36.670

    now i'm a professional rock climber i've just

    01:37:36.670 --> 01:37:39.189

    launched a company with my husband we've just

    01:37:39.189 --> 01:37:41.750

    launched foxy i sit on the executive board for

    01:37:41.750 --> 01:37:45.909

    our international federation i worked as a trustee

    01:37:45.909 --> 01:37:48.029

    on a charity for 10 years climbers against cancer

    01:37:48.029 --> 01:37:51.710

    i ran the women's climbing symposium for 13 years

    01:37:51.710 --> 01:37:55.649

    and founded that event which has had So many

    01:37:55.649 --> 01:37:57.310

    different events that have brought women together

    01:37:57.310 --> 01:37:59.770

    across the community. We're about to launch another

    01:37:59.770 --> 01:38:03.750

    company with Frankie, our daughter, that is climbing

    01:38:03.750 --> 01:38:08.069

    specific, which will be coming soon. And I think

    01:38:08.069 --> 01:38:10.850

    that it's easy to get sucked into thinking you

    01:38:10.850 --> 01:38:13.510

    have to be one thing. And there are so many different

    01:38:13.510 --> 01:38:18.470

    ways to navigate the kind of world today. And

    01:38:18.470 --> 01:38:21.390

    you can be whoever. it is that you want to be

    01:38:21.390 --> 01:38:24.130

    there are so many options and i think from when

    01:38:24.130 --> 01:38:26.529

    i was younger i didn't realize that so much okay

    01:38:26.529 --> 01:38:30.510

    awesome great word to end on um anything else

    01:38:30.510 --> 01:38:31.989

    you want to shout out or let people know where

    01:38:31.989 --> 01:38:35.329

    they can find you um put links in the description

    01:38:35.329 --> 01:38:37.590

    too yeah i mean if you want to find me you'll

    01:38:37.590 --> 01:38:40.689

    find me i'm on instagram that's kind of the only

    01:38:40.689 --> 01:38:44.369

    place i post but no i think for me there's a

    01:38:44.369 --> 01:38:46.489

    lot that i'm getting up to and i feel like you

    01:38:46.489 --> 01:38:48.989

    know if you want to figure out and find me then

    01:38:48.989 --> 01:38:51.470

    you will but i don't know there's not much else

    01:38:51.470 --> 01:38:54.789

    to add well awesome thank you again it was amazing

    01:38:54.789 --> 01:38:56.989

    to talk to you oh thank you and it's really cool

    01:38:56.989 --> 01:38:59.229

    what you're doing with this good work thank you

    01:38:59.229 --> 01:39:01.869

    and i love the name yeah that's that that's the

    01:39:01.869 --> 01:39:04.090

    main thing that's like my main claim to fame

    01:39:04.090 --> 01:39:06.250

    yeah i think you have a great name for this podcast

    01:39:06.250 --> 01:39:09.170

    because yeah jumping around on slidey volumes

    01:39:09.170 --> 01:39:12.949

    it's not real climbing you either No, I'm going

    01:39:12.949 --> 01:39:16.430

    to leave that one in. Thanks. Thank you so much

    01:39:16.430 --> 01:39:18.890

    for making it to the end of the podcast. Don't

    01:39:18.890 --> 01:39:20.909

    forget to like and subscribe if you enjoyed.

    01:39:21.109 --> 01:39:24.750

    Otherwise, you are a super big climber. If you're

    01:39:24.750 --> 01:39:27.189

    listening on a podcasting platform, I'd appreciate

    01:39:27.189 --> 01:39:29.890

    if you rate it five stars and you can continue

    01:39:29.890 --> 01:39:32.689

    the discussion on the free competition climbing

    01:39:32.689 --> 01:39:35.689

    discord linked in the description. Thanks again

    01:39:35.689 --> 01:39:36.149

    for listening.

Jinni Xia
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38: Chaz Misuraca, Climbing Blind